Hi, really great video. Thanks for sharing this. I've been struggling to get a cored fuz layup right, and seeing what you do in your video has been really helpful in allowing me to identify all the mistakes I'm making. It would be great to see more videos like this!
I'll try and do more! This was the second half of the fuselage and it has since been joined and hatched. Average weight for this part is 3.25 pounds, that's an 82-inch long fuselage.
Great video. I've wondered how to get the inner fabric to not sink into the honeycomb. Am I correct that you're using a plastic film baking on the fiberglass so that it doesn't sink in and dimple the inner layer of glass? Also what weight/kind of glass do you use on the inner and outer layers? It appears you're also using a thicker glass around the engine cowl as well? Thanks again for the great video :-)
Good questions. There is no backing on the inner glass, with the 1/8-inch cells the glass does not tend to 'golf ball' into the honeycomb cells. This can vary with fabric styles sometimes too. The schedule from outer surface to inner is: 1.4 - 3.2 - core - 2.5. Two layers of 5.7oz doublers are added at the wing saddle, canopy and cowl flanges.
GreeningAviation I see. Thanks for the great reply. I look forward to more videos :-) Can you recommend any books, videos, or webpages on vacuum bagging techniques and RC model composite construction? Or is this art mostly learned through experience and trial and error? Thanks again!
I didn't make this particular mold but the process is not difficult. It is essentially fiberglass laid over a plug that represents the desired final shape.
Hi, really great video. Thanks for sharing this. I've been struggling to get a cored fuz layup right, and seeing what you do in your video has been really helpful in allowing me to identify all the mistakes I'm making. It would be great to see more videos like this!
Would love to see another progress video of this, this one just wet the appetite!
I'll try and do more! This was the second half of the fuselage and it has since been joined and hatched. Average weight for this part is 3.25 pounds, that's an 82-inch long fuselage.
Great video. I've wondered how to get the inner fabric to not sink into the honeycomb. Am I correct that you're using a plastic film baking on the fiberglass so that it doesn't sink in and dimple the inner layer of glass?
Also what weight/kind of glass do you use on the inner and outer layers? It appears you're also using a thicker glass around the engine cowl as well?
Thanks again for the great video :-)
Good questions. There is no backing on the inner glass, with the 1/8-inch cells the glass does not tend to 'golf ball' into the honeycomb cells. This can vary with fabric styles sometimes too.
The schedule from outer surface to inner is: 1.4 - 3.2 - core - 2.5. Two layers of 5.7oz doublers are added at the wing saddle, canopy and cowl flanges.
GreeningAviation I see. Thanks for the great reply. I look forward to more videos :-)
Can you recommend any books, videos, or webpages on vacuum bagging techniques and RC model composite construction? Or is this art mostly learned through experience and trial and error?
Thanks again!
how do you make the mold
I didn't make this particular mold but the process is not difficult. It is essentially fiberglass laid over a plug that represents the desired final shape.
What is the filler you use at the beginning?
It's micro, a mix of glass bubbles and resin.