After about 4 hours of work, I finally shell swapped my ds lite. I had to replace the top screen and hinge which didn't add much time to the shell swap. I did have a problem when I was putting the back shell on. After I put it on, the ds wouldn't turn on. I tested it before and after I closed it all. I ended up taking a break and it worked itself out I guess. Then, I found out that my left shoulder button wasn't working so I had to remove the back to get to the shoulder button. Then I scraped whatever was on the contacts. I closed it all and now it's all good. Thank you for the disassembly tutorial and the shoulder button cleaning video!
This is so useful! I tried this once and accidentally damaged the ribbon to the screen so it didn't work. With this way better tutorial (and practice) I'm giving it another go!
When I opened my ds for the first time I noticed the digitizer cable was completely bent from factory, but since it probably bent when closing the shell all the contacts were still working, but not after the shell swap so in the end I had to swap the digitizer too. It was actually a good thing because the old one was scratched. Now the device looks brand new
awesome guide. i did 4 swaps by now and here some things i like to add 24:00 you may wanna leave the middle part in.just peel of the edge stick it down, then remove the middle part. this made it easier for me to get it fitted properly 35:06 i always take out the original clear plastic from the nintendo. the ones from extremerate are not as "clean" as the nintendo ones.
I tried that with light pipe but the oem one doesn’t fit for crap in the new housing. Only fit and finish issue I found on the whole kit. Otherwise perfect.
First of all, great tutorial, it really helped. I did however have two problems with my shell which either you or people in the comments may be able to help me with: 1. The shoulder buttons (specifically L) While my right shoulder button is very tactile and does not bind, my left one switches between tactile and unresponsive all the time. I believe this is due to what you mentioned in the video briefly about the shell sometimes being too tight in that area and requiring trimming. However, you didn't (to my memory) elaborate much on the trimming. More information would be appreciated as I would like to make it right if I can without returning the shell (this is already my second shell I've had to get sent as the first never arrived!) 2. One of the screws does not thread in (stripped, presumably) One of the rear screws that is ordinarily covered by a rubber foot does not tighten into the screw post. I've seen others have this exact issue with their shells on Reddit. Somebody in the comments of one such thread (no pun intended unfortunately) suggested putting some super glue in, letting it harden, and then threading the screw into that to ensure it all stays together. OP seemed to confirm that this had worked, but want somebody else's input on whether or not this would be the best way to rectify this problem? My main concern anyhow is that tightening up this end of the shell will cause that left shoulder button to become totally unusable, as it does become unresponsive when I squeeze the shell there. Apart from some poor experience on my end, I am happy (mostly) with the end result, and your guide was a major help through all the frustration (even though all the supposedly hard bits were very easy on my end, but rather I struggled with the supposedly simple bits!)
Additional note: I am very happy you went over changing the digitizer in this guide too, I ended up smashing my old one during the removal stage but it made putting on the new one incredibly easy. With how cheap digitizers are and how they transform the feel of touch on these older DSs, I recommend anybody doing a shell swap like this to also go ahead and install a new digitizer. It makes the touch screen feel more similar to a modern phone in terms of input responsiveness. You can fat finger bigger UI elements with minimal pressure instead of having to use your fingernail (or stylus) for everything.
29:33 my dad during "the talk" I love how the disassembly portion made up 1/4 of the video. Pretty much my experience with changing shells. Disassembly becomes a breeze after a while, but reassemblies always a bit longer.
Another piece of advice, the metal barrel that makes up the other part of the hinge, use the OEM Nintendo one. The way it’s cut makes it spring loaded and it fits much more snug compared to the cylinder non loaded one they provide. Much nicer fit in the end too with the hinge cover.
@Killian665 Good information! There are however two separate sizes of metal cylinders from Nintendo, one long, and one short. It's entirely random which one is in each DS.. The longer one will not fit in Extremerate's shell. The shorter one is what I presume you're mentioning though so that'd work perfect
Ive been thinking about doing a shell swap of the great waves shell but im not really experienced in stuff like that so this video is really going to help when I order it
I recommend you use the old transparent plastic piece that goes inside the hinge cover. The one from extremerate doesn’t diffuse the LED very well. I only noticed after everything was done and had to open it up again
i damaged 2 top screen ribbion cables first was not my fault but the 2nd was due to missing 2 screws on the hinge but i reshell the pokedex shell from extreme
Edit: I might actually have fried my board due to something completely different out of my own inexperience/stupidity (lack of protective tape on the lower replacement screen on the side where the screen rests on the board), so this probably has nothing to do with it Original comment: Advice to anyone wanting to test mid assembly as described from 43:40 onward, I think I either fried my motherboard or my battery doing this, so I wouid recommend just recasing the whole thing instead before doing any kind of testing, so that the battery has a proper enclosure if you have any doubt in your skills, it may take longer and require disassembly if anything went wrong before, but you'll be much safer doing so
You skipped a very crucial step. IF YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE DIGITIZER, you have to pull the factory border off of it or it will not fit in the shell. The factory shell allows the border to be stuck to the digitizer as it’s beveled to fit it as an assembly. The extreme rate one the border and digitizer sandwich the shell as 2 separate pieces. I just found this out the hard way and had to take it half way back apart. This is covered in the official extremerate video.
Ah I did miss this! So it is not 100% necessary to remove the original digitizer border. It will fit in the shell, as it did from the dozens of shell swaps I've done. It adds thickness, but everything should still work as it should. It can be a gamble, unfortunately not in your favor, to remove the factory border on the OEM digitizer because it can easily break your digitizer. The adhesive of the bottom screen border on the digitizer is very strong and sometimes, no matter how careful you are, it'll rip up the top layer of the digirizer itself which will render the digitizer 100% broken. So unless you 100% want to remove the bottom screen border off the OEM digitizer, and you're 100% set on wanting to apply it on top of the extremerate shell, then I recommend to keep it on and to not try to remove it. Even if you try, and it starts to pry up the top layer of the digitizer even slightly, then the digitizer will break. Sometimes it comes off easy, but most of the time it's glued on way too strong. Using a heat gun, hot air station, or hair dryer can help to loosen the adhesive but that'll also help to loosen the adhesive that holds the top layer of the digitizer on. So if you use heat to try to help you then you just need to be extremely careful I definitely should have addressed this in the video, it is an important thing 100%
@@Retro.Revolutionyeah I got it off with my rework heat gun and a spudger just now. Broke the top screen cable trying to get it back together though so I guess the whole things coming back apart now. Bottom screen comes on and I can do everything but the top one doesn’t. It looks like it lights up but no display.
Hi! Thanks for the tutorial, I accidentally creased the top ribbon cable and now it's non-functional 😅. I have a different DS lite I'm going to use the new shell on, but I'll need another double sided adhesive for the top screen. Do you know where I can get one that's sized to the DSL? Thanks!! 😁
Hey! I have some leftover (brand new) extreme rate double sided adhesive for the top screen, I can send you one for like $3 on my site if you'd like? Shipping would be $5, the order total would be $8. If you're in the USA :)
My friend, I've reached out to your email; the address you provided is insufficient, it isn't a real address. For the street line of the address you provided a few numbers, not an actual street line. I tried reaching out to your email that you submitted at checkout, but I never got a response. Just email me at retrorevolutionofficial.shop@gmail.com and I'll be able to update the address and get it shipped
I reassembled mine with the new 3rd party housing I bought. Issue I have is the ds charges but the power slider won’t turn it on. Any way to resolve that issue?
Interesting! I'd try to brush out the power slider with IPA. It's weird timing since it worked before, but sometimes they get dirty and won't work properly - in this case not turning the DSL on
Hey man, Great video. I was thinking about getting one of the clear/see-through Extreme Rate shells, but I'm worried that the quality may not be the best, I was wondering what your thoughts are about them?, and if they are a good purchase in general.
@@Retro.RevolutionHey! Thanks for responding so soon and for the advice! ill be looking to purchase an Extreme Rate shell in the next few days, thank you so much!!!
@@Retro.Revolution I saw a lot of videos and reviews in which the upper and lower part of DS are not flush when closed. This is the only thing holding me back. What is your experience on that?
@@Retro.Revolution Pause at exactly 1:03:47 for example. The gap between the top part and the bottom part when it's closed. I saw photos and videos in which the case for the top screen was very slightly crooked, and that resulted in an ugly gap between the parts and not being flush because of that.
I've just added it to the description, here's the link to purchase as well! retrorevolution.shop/products/nintendo-ds-lite-digitizer-brand-new-high-quality-touch-screen-digitizer
Great video! I just have one problem.. I cannot connect the top screen ribbon cable to the motherboard, no matter how hard I push it. It really looks like yours, with absolutely no gap, but it doesn’t make the “click” sound and, most importantly, the DS doesn’t turn on. What can I do 😞😞
Sometimes it doesn't make an audible click sound! But first and foremost, what is the DS doing when you try to turn it on? Does the bottom screen flash for a millisecond and then the ds shuts off? Or something else?
@daviderapisarda3833 That means the top screen either isn't plugged in fully, or the ribbon cable is torn - when a top screen is not plugged into its connector on the DS Lite, the console will shut off immediately while flashing the bottom screen. So first make sure it's plugged in the whole way, and that the clamp is down on the connector! But if it is, and it's still doing this, then the top screen's cable may have torn enough for the console to not recognize that it's plugged in
I’m having an issue where my left trigger is not actuating when the entire DS is reassembled. I’ve checked the ribbon, I’ve checked how the motherboard lines up and it looks slightly raised on that side. What do I do?
I bought the same brand shell, I got everything together and got the the final step to put the bottom together, and there was a huge gap around 3 of the 4 sides, no amount of pushing and proding put it down. Ended up breaking it by accident, very disappointed
I had some bad luck trying to shell swap my DS lite myself it had a broken hinge I mean go figure I try to save close to $20USD by doing it myself while watching this pausing the video each time until I finish the part I"m on & go figure I end up spending the same as if I had just sent my DS lite to Retro Revolution to do the shell swap & didn't mail the shell I wanted with my DS lite. So I'm near the end trying to reconnect my good digitizer back to the motherboard the small as hell part that connects the back of the board to the digitizer wasn't clicking when I tried to close it had the ribbon cable in but it wouldn't close & wouldn't click when the cable was in. So I kept on trying to get it to click & eventually I notice hey the latch broke off so now I'm waiting for replacement parts I almost feel like I should've just sent the thing to Retro Revolution for the shell swap however I wanted to try my hand at it while saving some cash on the side I figure I'd fix my childhood DS lite while getting a little experience on the side while making it look cooler as well. Hopefully my 2nd go aroud when I finish the shell swap will be better.
You told me to remove the digitiser without saying thats only for if youre replacing the screen, now the plastic holding my digitiser ribbon in place is snapped for no reason
I feel you bro, trust me I had quite the time with them when I was new to DS Lites. Broke plenty of top screen cables and digitizer cables If you need help let me know
@@forrestcool991 Would you please list timestamps of each instance where I gave bad advice? I'm super happy your shell swap went perfectly, though this is just an extra in-depth tutorial for people who would like to see how to exactly do everything they need to complete the swap.
After about 4 hours of work, I finally shell swapped my ds lite. I had to replace the top screen and hinge which didn't add much time to the shell swap. I did have a problem when I was putting the back shell on. After I put it on, the ds wouldn't turn on. I tested it before and after I closed it all. I ended up taking a break and it worked itself out I guess. Then, I found out that my left shoulder button wasn't working so I had to remove the back to get to the shoulder button. Then I scraped whatever was on the contacts. I closed it all and now it's all good. Thank you for the disassembly tutorial and the shoulder button cleaning video!
This is so useful! I tried this once and accidentally damaged the ribbon to the screen so it didn't work. With this way better tutorial (and practice) I'm giving it another go!
When I opened my ds for the first time I noticed the digitizer cable was completely bent from factory, but since it probably bent when closing the shell all the contacts were still working, but not after the shell swap so in the end I had to swap the digitizer too. It was actually a good thing because the old one was scratched. Now the device looks brand new
awesome guide. i did 4 swaps by now and here some things i like to add
24:00 you may wanna leave the middle part in.just peel of the edge stick it down, then remove the middle part. this made it easier for me to get it fitted properly
35:06 i always take out the original clear plastic from the nintendo. the ones from extremerate are not as "clean" as the nintendo ones.
I tried that with light pipe but the oem one doesn’t fit for crap in the new housing. Only fit and finish issue I found on the whole kit. Otherwise perfect.
I got the oem plastic to fit with a little bit of force and willpower
It wasn’t a perfect fit at first but the strength of the screws got it into place
What a great timing, mate!
Just got my extremeRate Shell today and found this video!
Thank you for this detailed tutorial!
Absolutely!! If you have any questions along the way, I'll be happy to help!
By far the best shell swap tutorial I've ever seen! Instant sub. 👍
First of all, great tutorial, it really helped. I did however have two problems with my shell which either you or people in the comments may be able to help me with:
1. The shoulder buttons (specifically L)
While my right shoulder button is very tactile and does not bind, my left one switches between tactile and unresponsive all the time. I believe this is due to what you mentioned in the video briefly about the shell sometimes being too tight in that area and requiring trimming. However, you didn't (to my memory) elaborate much on the trimming. More information would be appreciated as I would like to make it right if I can without returning the shell (this is already my second shell I've had to get sent as the first never arrived!)
2. One of the screws does not thread in (stripped, presumably)
One of the rear screws that is ordinarily covered by a rubber foot does not tighten into the screw post. I've seen others have this exact issue with their shells on Reddit. Somebody in the comments of one such thread (no pun intended unfortunately) suggested putting some super glue in, letting it harden, and then threading the screw into that to ensure it all stays together. OP seemed to confirm that this had worked, but want somebody else's input on whether or not this would be the best way to rectify this problem? My main concern anyhow is that tightening up this end of the shell will cause that left shoulder button to become totally unusable, as it does become unresponsive when I squeeze the shell there.
Apart from some poor experience on my end, I am happy (mostly) with the end result, and your guide was a major help through all the frustration (even though all the supposedly hard bits were very easy on my end, but rather I struggled with the supposedly simple bits!)
Additional note: I am very happy you went over changing the digitizer in this guide too, I ended up smashing my old one during the removal stage but it made putting on the new one incredibly easy. With how cheap digitizers are and how they transform the feel of touch on these older DSs, I recommend anybody doing a shell swap like this to also go ahead and install a new digitizer. It makes the touch screen feel more similar to a modern phone in terms of input responsiveness. You can fat finger bigger UI elements with minimal pressure instead of having to use your fingernail (or stylus) for everything.
Totally the most detailed tutorial ever seen. Love your excellent work!!!
Thank you so much!!!
29:33 my dad during "the talk"
I love how the disassembly portion made up 1/4 of the video. Pretty much my experience with changing shells. Disassembly becomes a breeze after a while, but reassemblies always a bit longer.
Another piece of advice, the metal barrel that makes up the other part of the hinge, use the OEM Nintendo one. The way it’s cut makes it spring loaded and it fits much more snug compared to the cylinder non loaded one they provide. Much nicer fit in the end too with the hinge cover.
@Killian665 Good information! There are however two separate sizes of metal cylinders from Nintendo, one long, and one short. It's entirely random which one is in each DS.. The longer one will not fit in Extremerate's shell. The shorter one is what I presume you're mentioning though so that'd work perfect
Ive been thinking about doing a shell swap of the great waves shell but im not really experienced in stuff like that so this video is really going to help when I order it
Glad to hear it!! Have fun whenever you get the shell! Extreme rate is awesome :)
I recommend you use the old transparent plastic piece that goes inside the hinge cover. The one from extremerate doesn’t diffuse the LED very well. I only noticed after everything was done and had to open it up again
Absolute legend! Thanks for the guide mate. You're a lite saver! See what I did there haha
😂love it
You are welcome my friend
i damaged 2 top screen ribbion cables first was not my fault but the 2nd was due to missing 2 screws on the hinge but i reshell the pokedex shell from extreme
Great in depth tutorial keep up the good work 😃
Edit: I might actually have fried my board due to something completely different out of my own inexperience/stupidity (lack of protective tape on the lower replacement screen on the side where the screen rests on the board), so this probably has nothing to do with it
Original comment: Advice to anyone wanting to test mid assembly as described from 43:40 onward, I think I either fried my motherboard or my battery doing this, so I wouid recommend just recasing the whole thing instead before doing any kind of testing, so that the battery has a proper enclosure if you have any doubt in your skills, it may take longer and require disassembly if anything went wrong before, but you'll be much safer doing so
Put the spinger... 33:08
I hope extremerate comes out with 2ds xl shells. Id do that in a heart beat ❤. This makes me want to change ly ds lite rn lol
You skipped a very crucial step. IF YOU ARE NOT REPLACING THE DIGITIZER, you have to pull the factory border off of it or it will not fit in the shell. The factory shell allows the border to be stuck to the digitizer as it’s beveled to fit it as an assembly.
The extreme rate one the border and digitizer sandwich the shell as 2 separate pieces.
I just found this out the hard way and had to take it half way back apart.
This is covered in the official extremerate video.
Ah I did miss this! So it is not 100% necessary to remove the original digitizer border. It will fit in the shell, as it did from the dozens of shell swaps I've done. It adds thickness, but everything should still work as it should. It can be a gamble, unfortunately not in your favor, to remove the factory border on the OEM digitizer because it can easily break your digitizer. The adhesive of the bottom screen border on the digitizer is very strong and sometimes, no matter how careful you are, it'll rip up the top layer of the digirizer itself which will render the digitizer 100% broken. So unless you 100% want to remove the bottom screen border off the OEM digitizer, and you're 100% set on wanting to apply it on top of the extremerate shell, then I recommend to keep it on and to not try to remove it. Even if you try, and it starts to pry up the top layer of the digitizer even slightly, then the digitizer will break. Sometimes it comes off easy, but most of the time it's glued on way too strong. Using a heat gun, hot air station, or hair dryer can help to loosen the adhesive but that'll also help to loosen the adhesive that holds the top layer of the digitizer on. So if you use heat to try to help you then you just need to be extremely careful
I definitely should have addressed this in the video, it is an important thing 100%
@@Retro.Revolutionyeah I got it off with my rework heat gun and a spudger just now. Broke the top screen cable trying to get it back together though so I guess the whole things coming back apart now.
Bottom screen comes on and I can do everything but the top one doesn’t. It looks like it lights up but no display.
Hi! Thanks for the tutorial, I accidentally creased the top ribbon cable and now it's non-functional 😅. I have a different DS lite I'm going to use the new shell on, but I'll need another double sided adhesive for the top screen. Do you know where I can get one that's sized to the DSL? Thanks!! 😁
Hey! I have some leftover (brand new) extreme rate double sided adhesive for the top screen, I can send you one for like $3 on my site if you'd like? Shipping would be $5, the order total would be $8. If you're in the USA :)
@Retro.Revolution hell yeah, would be much appreciated! I am in US
Perfect! Just created the listing for you, here's the link! retrorevolution.shop/products/nintendo-ds-lite-top-screen-adhesive
I ordered a ds lite LR replacement from you like 2-3 weeks ago and it hasn’t arrived.
My friend, I've reached out to your email; the address you provided is insufficient, it isn't a real address. For the street line of the address you provided a few numbers, not an actual street line. I tried reaching out to your email that you submitted at checkout, but I never got a response. Just email me at retrorevolutionofficial.shop@gmail.com and I'll be able to update the address and get it shipped
@@Retro.Revolution I just replied to the email I was sent when I placed the order.
Got it, email received, I'll get it shipped out today or tomorrow morning, you'll receive an email with tracking info today :)
@@Retro.Revolution ok thanks
oh lawd, use a fibreglass pen. DON'T TAKE A PIECE OF SANDPAPER TO YOUR MOTHERBOARD LMAO.
otherwise, v cool shell. love you, king
I've never actually heard of a fiberglass pen, seems like they're real cheap, I'll try them out!
And thank you!
I reassembled mine with the new 3rd party housing I bought. Issue I have is the ds charges but the power slider won’t turn it on. Any way to resolve that issue?
Interesting! I'd try to brush out the power slider with IPA. It's weird timing since it worked before, but sometimes they get dirty and won't work properly - in this case not turning the DSL on
Hey man, Great video. I was thinking about getting one of the clear/see-through Extreme Rate shells, but I'm worried that the quality may not be the best, I was wondering what your thoughts are about them?, and if they are a good purchase in general.
Thank you! If it's extreme rate, you can't go wrong. Their quality control is great from my experience and I don't think you'd be disappointed!
@@Retro.RevolutionHey! Thanks for responding so soon and for the advice! ill be looking to purchase an Extreme Rate shell in the next few days, thank you so much!!!
@@Retro.Revolution I saw a lot of videos and reviews in which the upper and lower part of DS are not flush when closed. This is the only thing holding me back. What is your experience on that?
Like the side of it with the GBA slot cover, if you're looking at it straight on?
@@Retro.Revolution Pause at exactly 1:03:47 for example. The gap between the top part and the bottom part when it's closed.
I saw photos and videos in which the case for the top screen was very slightly crooked, and that resulted in an ugly gap between the parts and not being flush because of that.
You seem to love those tweezers. Where can I get those?
I got them in a bundle of multiple other types of tweezers from ebay :)
Could you post the link for the digitizer in the description?
I've just added it to the description, here's the link to purchase as well! retrorevolution.shop/products/nintendo-ds-lite-digitizer-brand-new-high-quality-touch-screen-digitizer
just wanted to say i just got a ds lite from you on ebay. Thank you!!! And thanks for the card about your youtube!
the community needs a DSi shell swap video from you
a little risky with that sandpaper....me i use one q-tip with technical alcohol rubbed till the contacts are clean.
Great video! I just have one problem.. I cannot connect the top screen ribbon cable to the motherboard, no matter how hard I push it. It really looks like yours, with absolutely no gap, but it doesn’t make the “click” sound and, most importantly, the DS doesn’t turn on. What can I do 😞😞
Sometimes it doesn't make an audible click sound! But first and foremost, what is the DS doing when you try to turn it on? Does the bottom screen flash for a millisecond and then the ds shuts off? Or something else?
Yes it is doing exactly that. Bottom screen flashes white for a moment then turn off
@daviderapisarda3833 That means the top screen either isn't plugged in fully, or the ribbon cable is torn - when a top screen is not plugged into its connector on the DS Lite, the console will shut off immediately while flashing the bottom screen. So first make sure it's plugged in the whole way, and that the clamp is down on the connector! But if it is, and it's still doing this, then the top screen's cable may have torn enough for the console to not recognize that it's plugged in
put the shell together but one of my shoulder buttons doesn't click very well. what should i do about that?
Mine is missing the top LCD stickers....
I’m having an issue where my left trigger is not actuating when the entire DS is reassembled. I’ve checked the ribbon, I’ve checked how the motherboard lines up and it looks slightly raised on that side. What do I do?
I bought the same brand shell, I got everything together and got the the final step to put the bottom together, and there was a huge gap around 3 of the 4 sides, no amount of pushing and proding put it down. Ended up breaking it by accident, very disappointed
I had some bad luck trying to shell swap my DS lite myself it had a broken hinge I mean go figure I try to save close to $20USD by doing it myself while watching this pausing the video each time until I finish the part I"m on & go figure I end up spending the same as if I had just sent my DS lite to Retro Revolution to do the shell swap & didn't mail the shell I wanted with my DS lite. So I'm near the end trying to reconnect my good digitizer back to the motherboard the small as hell part that connects the back of the board to the digitizer wasn't clicking when I tried to close it had the ribbon cable in but it wouldn't close & wouldn't click when the cable was in. So I kept on trying to get it to click & eventually I notice hey the latch broke off so now I'm waiting for replacement parts I almost feel like I should've just sent the thing to Retro Revolution for the shell swap however I wanted to try my hand at it while saving some cash on the side I figure I'd fix my childhood DS lite while getting a little experience on the side while making it look cooler as well. Hopefully my 2nd go aroud when I finish the shell swap will be better.
You told me to remove the digitiser without saying thats only for if youre replacing the screen, now the plastic holding my digitiser ribbon in place is snapped for no reason
Wish we could get a dsixl shell that doesn't suck :(
everything was going well but i didn't realize the tweezer stripped the contacts on both the digitizer and screen fml 🙃 i probably wont try that again
@lastlaph8835 Aww dude, if it's the bottom LCD then I can take care of you for decently cheap. Either way good work for trying, 100%!!
What grit of sandpaper do you use?
120 grit sandpaper :)
@@Retro.Revolution thank you
Does the kit come with the digitizer ?
@EDDY_MODZ Unfortunately it doesn't! If you buy an extremerate shell and want a digitizer you'll need to purchase it separately
I fucking hate ribbon cables
I feel you bro, trust me I had quite the time with them when I was new to DS Lites. Broke plenty of top screen cables and digitizer cables
If you need help let me know
DO NOT USE THE INCLUDED SCREWS THEY ARE TRASH. Had to scarp the project because they stripped super easily.
Use the shell swap tutorial from extreme rates channel. This one gives a lot of bad advice. I used the other guide and everything went perfectly.
@@forrestcool991 Would you please list timestamps of each instance where I gave bad advice? I'm super happy your shell swap went perfectly, though this is just an extra in-depth tutorial for people who would like to see how to exactly do everything they need to complete the swap.