Well, I love your videos and I really wish I could contribute. Unfortunately I’m not working due to medical issues so I don’t have money to spare usually. Glad to hear your channel is growing tho. You deserve it and the information you’re providing is excellent. This video is a case in point. With regard to bezel settings, I know a jeweller who uses a little piece of silver Mylar foil on top of her backing when setting a transparent cab. Her reasoning is that the Mylar won’t tarnish like a piece of silver can.Thank you for the design ideas
Contributions are appreciated but not required:). I used to use foil, but it ended up looking like those old plastic stones with foil backs on them, hehe.
@Chad’s Silversmithing Another perhaps more classy method for the light reflective under-piece for a transparent stone is a 32g bit of Argentium, highly polished. For a translucent, but not a transparent stone, mylar is effective. I never want to see anything except the stones beauty. Open back is my favorite!
Thank you as always, Chad! Great in-depth discussion that most tutorials either speed through or skip over entirely. Very much looking forward to that upcoming prong setting video, those are so hard for me to get! By the way, my girlfriend liked the ring I made following your moldavite video that that's what she wants for christmas, so thanks for that, too!
Thank you Cody! Prong settings took me some practice before they became routine. It may be a bit before I do the prong setting tips video, as I have a long list of topics on deck:)
@@chadssilversmithing I'm literally JUST now getting the hang of it and each step doesn't seem like a nightmare. It's taken 4 rings and at least 3 separate attempts at each one but because of you, there will be two VERY happy people this Christmas, cheers!
For me with the bullet stone, i find that castellated bezel allows a better grab than a flat wire bezel. Ibhave only done a few, and they are all holding up. But they were all pendants. Rings take more of a beating, so bullet stones might not be ideal for rings or bracelets. Thanks Chad for another helpful video!
Thanks. I need to share the rings I’ve been able to make. You really helped me be more creative. I’m not a cookie cutter silver smith. Like my son only makes belt buckles and engraved stuff. I hope I can help him be more creative. He’s a wonderful artist I wish I had his ability. I’ve tried lots of things you’ve shared. Thanks again
The one thing I'm struggling with is setting up my mini torch an what type of gas that is most universal. I want a tank system with twin gauges and flash arrestors. But searching on line for the correct fittings is driving me nuts. I'm currently using propane or MAP gases w/O2 but find that thin silver melts very quickly w/ MAP. I would welcome ANY advice on the proper set up . Thank you very much for addressing the beginners issues and helping us become better at this amazing craft .
Hello ambkbero! I prefer Acetylene/air as it produces a hot flame, but not so hot as acetylene/oxygen. I’ve been using this setup for years, so I haven’t experimented much and may not be the best source of info on this topic:). Thanks for the good comment though!
Sir. I have been watching so many of your videos. You are the bob Ross of silversmithing! So easy to listen to. What can I do with a cab that won’t catch? I made bezel and used wire in base of rim bc I want an open bottom and the rim of bezel is not wrinkling but it’s not catching. Think stone is too high? How to fix without scraping entire ring? Thx!
Hi Chad. When soldering a large bezel onto a backplate I have trouble making the bezel flat enough so there are no spaces between the bezel and the backplate. Because of the flimsiness of the large bezel it tends not to sit flat and I end up with light shining through and trying to fix that is so difficult. Any tricks to solving this dilemma? Thank you for your generous videos!😊
Hello Wendy! I often have some warping of the back sheet as well that causes that problem. If you can get the piece to the point where your solder is completely flowing, you can apply some very gentle pressure downward on the bezel until it is back in contact with the sheet in that spot, and the solder should wick along the seam from other spots. This only works if you can keep the solder liquid everywhere while applying the light pressure. Hope this helps:)
Is there some way to give classes to us online? I'd like to try what you're doing but don't want to do it alone. I'm kind of scared of the torch. I'd have to have instruction.
The Patreon I will create soon will have membership tiers, and one of them may include some online instruction. Still working out the details on that one Ma Wi:). I will keep everyone posted as I make steps to getting that going. If anyone else wants to add things they’d find useful as membership perks/merch, one on one instruction, discounts on jewelry, live question/answer sessions or whatever. I appreciate the input and want to make it something valuable for people.
Greetings Chad. Wanted to say hello and say I have learned from your videos and do enjoy watching. Happy that your having great success! My question is How do you go about doing rough chunky turquoise without loosing alot of the luster of the stone do you have any ideas on styles or tips thank you for what you Do!! It is appreciated!
Hello Ted! I don’t do a lot of bezel setting of rough stuff, so I may not be the best one to ask. Could you explain what you mean about the stone losing luster?
Greetings, yes I am trying to do some chunky awkward shaped pieces non flat sided rough that are taller but wanting to make a ring or two with a few of these stones I have but have tried to bezel set a couple and failed thinking possibly scalloped edges to make it taller but yet be able to see more stone that way I didn’t know if maybe putting a pin or hook from the back to help hold the stone in place so they don’t wobble or possibly just using epoxy to help hold them in place. Not sure if I can add a picture as this is the first time I’ve ever asked a question on UA-cam lol but I guess I’m talking more about the older style watches that they used to make in the southwest with those big stones and large embellishments and really wanting to try and use a few of the older stones I got from my grandfather
@@chadssilversmithing sorry I don’t do the instagram thing I’ve been successful in three rings now all domed trying a flat piece of lapis or a Ls agate. Next gonna work up to the turquoise I guess and get good at this first wanting to find some scalloped bezel from rio to help still see the stone but be a little taller watching your crystal video helped answer a few of my questions too thank you for being awesome!! Much appreciated
@@chadssilversmithing I've faced this issue myself and thought it might just be that I was shitty at or too weak for setting stones 🙈 Never knew it was a common issue with a trick solution, thank you Chad 😊 Really love your content and I think I will grow a lot as a smith through watching your videos 🙏
Chad, 6 minutes in and a question (always about your choices; "why"): you mention "probably going to be having some backing behind it." Why do we [want to] have backing behind it? I can see having a backing (lift) on a really flat, low profile stone, but what is the very common practice of having bezel set stones sitting so high about? I see this so often, and especially in rings. Not only are tall stone settings vulnerable, but to me, they are often ugly - simply because they are so prominent. I have never liked the look of a bunch of grain silos on my hand or neck. 🤣 I use a sliver of biz card only for the snug fit, but no more (unless I want a lift, and then I do a bearing). Your thoughts, please, maestro. And as always, thank you. 🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺 Oh, and tip for tall/bullet type stones: use 24g fine or even well annealed sterling for your bezel, don't just rub over, use a setting punch, and compress the metal properly. That baby is going nowhere. I have no irea where the thrill of 28g bezel wire came from besides being frugal with metal.
I’m with you on just using just a bit of backing most times. I’ll have to look into getting a setting punch. Don’t have one of those:) Thanks for the good info!
@@chadssilversmithing Chad, you can just make one. I actually bought the 3-pack of punches from Rio (but that was because I was lazy - you can just buy tool steel and cut/shape them yourself), and simply filed, shaped, and sanded each one with a different tip. Cheap and cheerful, and custom to your needs. Also, Fretz makes a slick one - I have the square tip one, and I polished the edges even smoother than the silk Bill makes. 👍👍👍
Need to come up with a new term to replace “beginner”. I am new to making jewelry but have a lifetime of crafting experience. So I easily understand what is being talked about. I also consider my work to be a step up from beginner. Just saying.
Thanks Mark. It’s just a broad term I use because everyone comes with different experience. I’ve had students who seem like they’ve never picked up a tool in their life, and others who have obviously done many other crafts, both new to metalsmithing. No insult is intended:)
I'd definitely like a question and answer video. 😊
Well, I will definitely make interactive live streams a part of one of the tiers. Thanks Wendy!
Well, I love your videos and I really wish I could contribute. Unfortunately I’m not working due to medical issues so I don’t have money to spare usually. Glad to hear your channel is growing tho. You deserve it and the information you’re providing is excellent. This video is a case in point. With regard to bezel settings, I know a jeweller who uses a little piece of silver Mylar foil on top of her backing when setting a transparent cab. Her reasoning is that the Mylar won’t tarnish like a piece of silver can.Thank you for the design ideas
Contributions are appreciated but not required:). I used to use foil, but it ended up looking like those old plastic stones with foil backs on them, hehe.
@Chad’s Silversmithing Another perhaps more classy method for the light reflective under-piece for a transparent stone is a 32g bit of Argentium, highly polished. For a translucent, but not a transparent stone, mylar is effective. I never want to see anything except the stones beauty. Open back is my favorite!
@@flyingcheff That’s a good thought using Argentium underneath. I’ll try that sometime. Generally I just set stuff like that with an open back.
enjoy your videos and I will buy you a coffee after Christmas
Thanks William! I appreciate your generosity. Thanks for watching!
Thank you very much i run into this problem all the time
Glad I could help!
I like these videos where you share your tips and tricks. Thank you.
My pleasure Laszlo!
Thank you as always, Chad! Great in-depth discussion that most tutorials either speed through or skip over entirely. Very much looking forward to that upcoming prong setting video, those are so hard for me to get! By the way, my girlfriend liked the ring I made following your moldavite video that that's what she wants for christmas, so thanks for that, too!
Thank you Cody! Prong settings took me some practice before they became routine. It may be a bit before I do the prong setting tips video, as I have a long list of topics on deck:)
@@chadssilversmithing I'm literally JUST now getting the hang of it and each step doesn't seem like a nightmare. It's taken 4 rings and at least 3 separate attempts at each one but because of you, there will be two VERY happy people this Christmas, cheers!
I agree with you on that.
Another Great one, Thanks!!!
Thanks for the nice comment Valli!
Really useful video thanks Chad 😊
I'm really glad you found it useful cba!
Do a Patreon!!! Also, I love the chad merch coffee cup!
Great idea!!
HI, good informative advice. I use suede leather, you can run it thru the roller mill to get the thickness you need
That's an interesting idea! Thanks:)
For me with the bullet stone, i find that castellated bezel allows a better grab than a flat wire bezel. Ibhave only done a few, and they are all holding up. But they were all pendants. Rings take more of a beating, so bullet stones might not be ideal for rings or bracelets. Thanks Chad for another helpful video!
I’ll have to try one of those types Benny!
@chadssilversmithing its really fun and pretty easy... and it offers a really different look to stones.
Great tutorials that could help me for my bezel settings projects. Thanks for sharing ❤
You’re welcome Elisa! Glad you found it useful:)
I have used styrofoam from a cup and compress it in a vice to raise the stone/gem. So far it seems to work well.
Interesting idea Larry! I've never heard of anyone using Styrofoam. I met someone once who used old cut up credit cards:)
Very useful, I always learn something in your tutorials, thank you. Enjoy your holiday Chad
Thanks Chris! You too!
Thanks. I need to share the rings I’ve been able to make. You really helped me be more creative. I’m not a cookie cutter silver smith. Like my son only makes belt buckles and engraved stuff. I hope I can help him be more creative. He’s a wonderful artist I wish I had his ability. I’ve tried lots of things you’ve shared. Thanks again
Thanks Shanda! You can send me pics to my instagram if you’d like. I’d love to see what you’ve made:). I appreciate the nice comment!
The one thing I'm struggling with is setting up my mini torch an what type of gas that is most universal. I want a tank system with twin gauges and flash arrestors. But searching on line for the correct fittings is driving me nuts.
I'm currently using propane or MAP gases w/O2 but find that thin silver melts very quickly w/ MAP. I would welcome ANY advice on the proper set up .
Thank you very much for addressing the beginners issues and helping us become better at this amazing craft .
Hello ambkbero! I prefer Acetylene/air as it produces a hot flame, but not so hot as acetylene/oxygen. I’ve been using this setup for years, so I haven’t experimented much and may not be the best source of info on this topic:). Thanks for the good comment though!
Id love to try and share your legal pad idea!
Feel free to do that:). I learned that from someone else long ago!
Sir. I have been watching so many of your videos. You are the bob Ross of silversmithing! So easy to listen to. What can I do with a cab that won’t catch? I made bezel and used wire in base of rim bc I want an open bottom and the rim of bezel is not wrinkling but it’s not catching. Think stone is too high? How to fix without scraping entire ring? Thx!
Thanks Peacelilly! Can you send a picture of it to my Instagram account? I could advise you better if I could see the piece and the stone:)
Thank you. It's much appreciated.
You're welcome Kristi! Glad it was useful:)
Hi,Chad i got a hold of some 3/16 24 ga. strip,looked like it would make a nice bezel of course it's too thick,another lesson learned! LOL!
Might be useful at some future time. Sometimes thick bezel is useful when there isn’t a lot of other structure to the piece.
Great tips, thanks so much. I would love to see a video on prong setting three stoned in a ring. How would you build the settings?
I don’t think I’ve ever done one with 3:). Sounds like a challenge!
Hi Chad. When soldering a large bezel onto a backplate I have trouble making the bezel flat enough so there are no spaces between the bezel and the backplate. Because of the flimsiness of the large bezel it tends not to sit flat and I end up with light shining through and trying to fix that is so difficult. Any tricks to solving this dilemma? Thank you for your generous videos!😊
Hello Wendy! I often have some warping of the back sheet as well that causes that problem. If you can get the piece to the point where your solder is completely flowing, you can apply some very gentle pressure downward on the bezel until it is back in contact with the sheet in that spot, and the solder should wick along the seam from other spots. This only works if you can keep the solder liquid everywhere while applying the light pressure. Hope this helps:)
Have a question how to do a bezel setting for baroque pearl?
You will probably have to do some custom filing on the height of the bezel to match the contours of the pearl.
I also have a friend that uses milk jug plastic to raise the stone/gem.
My only gripe with plastic is it doesn't compress really. I like to have some springbuck pushing upward for a nice tight setting.
Is there some way to give classes to us online? I'd like to try what you're doing but don't want to do it alone. I'm kind of scared of the torch. I'd have to have instruction.
The Patreon I will create soon will have membership tiers, and one of them may include some online instruction. Still working out the details on that one Ma Wi:). I will keep everyone posted as I make steps to getting that going. If anyone else wants to add things they’d find useful as membership perks/merch, one on one instruction, discounts on jewelry, live question/answer sessions or whatever. I appreciate the input and want to make it something valuable for people.
Greetings Chad.
Wanted to say hello and say I have learned from your videos and do enjoy watching. Happy that your having great success! My question is How do you go about doing rough chunky turquoise without loosing alot of the luster of the stone do you have any ideas on styles or tips thank you for what you Do!! It is appreciated!
Hello Ted! I don’t do a lot of bezel setting of rough stuff, so I may not be the best one to ask. Could you explain what you mean about the stone losing luster?
Greetings, yes I am trying to do some chunky awkward shaped pieces non flat sided rough that are taller but wanting to make a ring or two with a few of these stones I have but have tried to bezel set a couple and failed thinking possibly scalloped edges to make it taller but yet be able to see more stone that way I didn’t know if maybe putting a pin or hook from the back to help hold the stone in place so they don’t wobble or possibly just using epoxy to help hold them in place. Not sure if I can add a picture as this is the first time I’ve ever asked a question on UA-cam lol but I guess I’m talking more about the older style watches that they used to make in the southwest with those big stones and large embellishments and really wanting to try and use a few of the older stones I got from my grandfather
@@tedabernathey8814 If you want Ted, you can send me a pic to my Instagram account. I’d be able to give better advice if I could see the stones.
@@chadssilversmithing sorry I don’t do the instagram thing I’ve been successful in three rings now all domed trying a flat piece of lapis or a Ls agate. Next gonna work up to the turquoise I guess and get good at this first wanting to find some scalloped bezel from rio to help still see the stone but be a little taller watching your crystal video helped answer a few of my questions too thank you for being awesome!! Much appreciated
@@tedabernathey8814 Let me know if the scalloped bezel solves your problem. Thanks for the compliment!
can I bezel set a round cut waterford cyrstal?
Hello Barb! I'd have to see it to be able to answer that:). Send a pic to my Instagram and I'll take a look.
First thing comeing to my mind that is durable and springy is cork 🤔🙂
That would probably work well:)
@@chadssilversmithing I've faced this issue myself and thought it might just be that I was shitty at or too weak for setting stones 🙈 Never knew it was a common issue with a trick solution, thank you Chad 😊 Really love your content and I think I will grow a lot as a smith through watching your videos 🙏
Chad, 6 minutes in and a question (always about your choices; "why"): you mention "probably going to be having some backing behind it." Why do we [want to] have backing behind it? I can see having a backing (lift) on a really flat, low profile stone, but what is the very common practice of having bezel set stones sitting so high about? I see this so often, and especially in rings. Not only are tall stone settings vulnerable, but to me, they are often ugly - simply because they are so prominent. I have never liked the look of a bunch of grain silos on my hand or neck. 🤣 I use a sliver of biz card only for the snug fit, but no more (unless I want a lift, and then I do a bearing). Your thoughts, please, maestro. And as always, thank you. 🌺🌺🌺🌺🌺 Oh, and tip for tall/bullet type stones: use 24g fine or even well annealed sterling for your bezel, don't just rub over, use a setting punch, and compress the metal properly. That baby is going nowhere. I have no irea where the thrill of 28g bezel wire came from besides being frugal with metal.
I’m with you on just using just a bit of backing most times. I’ll have to look into getting a setting punch. Don’t have one of those:) Thanks for the good info!
@@chadssilversmithing Chad, you can just make one. I actually bought the 3-pack of punches from Rio (but that was because I was lazy - you can just buy tool steel and cut/shape them yourself), and simply filed, shaped, and sanded each one with a different tip. Cheap and cheerful, and custom to your needs. Also, Fretz makes a slick one - I have the square tip one, and I polished the edges even smoother than the silk Bill makes. 👍👍👍
@@flyingcheff Thanks!
Need to come up with a new term to replace “beginner”. I am new to making jewelry but have a lifetime of crafting experience. So I easily understand what is being talked about. I also consider my work to be a step up from beginner. Just saying.
Thanks Mark. It’s just a broad term I use because everyone comes with different experience. I’ve had students who seem like they’ve never picked up a tool in their life, and others who have obviously done many other crafts, both new to metalsmithing. No insult is intended:)
@@chadssilversmithing none taken. Not aimed at you just in general. I do like the way you present information. I think we are on the same wavelength.
I have years of crafting and making jewellery other ways but I'm a beginner at silver smithing. So beginner sounds right to me,