Hey Josh, a little FYI from out west in Arizona. The best trans cooling design ive installed and tested is to take 2 factory trans coolers up front, cut the thermostat bypass pipe off of the old one and tig the tubes closed so it is a full cool 100% of the time. lay it on the front of the stock cooler, tig it on. mounted in front. trans lines in series. full cool first then into the stock bypass cooler. Tstat opens at 180 degrees. I always over tow 28k lbs gross. temps are dreamy. 165 all the time, 30 minute hills at 5-7 percent grades 185- 210. In 110 degree ambient temps. oh yeah of course the trans heater is deleted. although i left the heater on my aunts 2005 and it stays under 220 while towing there fifth wheel. so still good results for people that want to have it heat up quicker.
Great content! I love when my projects explode into rebuilding 3 or 4 different systems as part of a little upgrade. No time like the present to knock it out though. She should be worry free in no time.
Great video again Josh rattle can over hall finishes it off 👍 it's looking better and better your going to be proud to open the hood Take care stay safe and God bless 🙋🏻♂️ 🇬🇧
I've always given the torque converter cooler it's own cooler when doing that job. I like your setup. I always wondered why Chrysler chose not to use the heat exchanger on the 68fre 3rd gens but started using that billet block cross over with coolant and atf a few years later. I hate when they leak coolant into your transmission from rotting out.
Dang Josh, when i stood next to you i thought you were tall! your Work partner there is taller then you! makes working under a hood a bit easier! keep rolling! thanks for the videos!
I added a 6.0 trans cooler to my 05 CR. Took some doing and fabing some brackets. That cooler is a massive heat sink! I do agree with you on taking heat sources our of the cooler stack and using remote mount coolers. Though I honestly think once the heat exchanger is removed from the equation, that's what cools the trans fluid down. My overall engine temps run around 185* now. It's a thing of beauty. Have a 14 silverado that send the trans fluid through the AC condenser, then the radiator, and finally back to trans. So dumb! One aux cooler and thermostat bypass later, trans temp rarely creeps above 140*. I'm south of I-10 in the heat belt.
By the way i tried 2 Derale 10000 oil coolers in series in the stock cooler location and trans temps would over heat 220-230 just cruising around town. turns out the engineers got a handle on the thermodynamics with the stock cooler it basically needs to be a bit bigger because most people tow more than what the trucks are rated for. I also have a Derale 15800 with fan under the bed and i have seen no change in trans temps so im sure you can under stand the under the bed coolers do little to nothing. I believe the reason for that is they dont thin the fluid out enough like the stock front cooler does. it make sense that fluid needs to be thinned out in order the be cooled. rushing the fluid through high flow coolers provides very little heat transfer. After all i have not found anything that moves more air than the factory fan clutch.
Under bed coolers work just fine I use them on my quad cab for 2 years, used them on my 2011, 2006 mega cab etc. if they do not have enough air flow they do not work. People mount them too close to flat surfaces. Adding trans coolers up front has been proven to decrease the front cooling stack which when already over loaded is not enough radiator. With keeping a single stock cooler adding a larger radiator with the stock ram clutch that is the best way to increase cooling stack efficiency. It’s the same reason on newer trucks the Intercoolers are mounted low in the bumper for better radiator flow
Is there a certain kit on Amazon you would recommend just because I am about to do this same thing and have been trying to figure out what fittings I need to mate woth the transmission and if I need 90s and etc... and also the coolant plug size? Thank you for always going as independent as possible with what you use and the way you do stuff also❤❤ it's been a big help especially for those of us who haven't done a lot of aftermarket work to our trucks, I always just replaced stuff that went bad with oem parts and never really did anything with AN line or etc I know how it works just not used to the sizing and stuff
So why replace the 5.9 balancer and then the pulley above for a 6.7? Just curious. I know you normally run Fluidampr on your balancer. Answered in the video 👍🏼
Just my thoughts and maybe I'm overthinking it but wouldn't installed a good cooler up front, such as a Mishimoto, FSD, or any of the bigger cooler setups. Wouldn't that be more than enough to keep it cool and keep it simple?
I did that exact thing. Removed my heat exchanger, installed a Mishimoto in the front, trans hit 250 in traffic on an 88⁰ day. Trans would also shoot up quick backing trailers into tight spots (D to R back and forth would heat it up) Installed a secondary with a fan under the bed, no issues now.
Back in the Josh/Myer video; I deleted the heat exchanger and installed the PDD blue/Continental lines with a Mishimoto trans cooler. My truck runs in the northwest but have made trips to California. Haven’t gotten over 170degF in 95degF weather towing a 24’ camper trailer up decent grades. As Josh said too, on those cold mornings take it easy on the trans as it builds heat.
Yes it does. 5.9 fan pulley with a 6.7 damper you cant get the belt on due to the damper being larger. 6.7 fan pulley is re designed to have a small amount of clearance to get the belt on.
I found out the 6.7 also has a different water pump. It's got a different blade design and my 2013 actually has a smaller pulley than my 5.9 on the water pump. So I'm interested if putting a 6.7 water pump on a 5.9 helps anything or makes anything worse
Changed out my tensioner today with a new Gates all of a sudden belt started to walk off the AC pulley towards the block put the old one back on everything seems good or back to normal anyhow weird huh
@@horsetorquesdiesel update: power steering pulley needed adjusted moved it 1/8-3/16 towards the front of the truck belt no longer jumps a rib on the fluidampr
@@jakes_lbz gotta pay to play the trans alone retails for 9990! Fuel system 6400, engine upgrades 2000, turbo kit 3000, tuning 1000, suspension work 1900. Plus some more that I haven’t put on yet
i vehemently disagree with this practice for every kind of reason. even though we have been thru this before, i get to say it again Alot cooler!!! youdont want it a lot cooler 185 degrees please all day long
@@horsetorquesdiesel yes free country , not as free as it once was and a lot less free than some countries in the western world . even so with your star rising on u tube and the videos increasing in viewership and in quality the onus is on you to present with conviction your stance on a modification to your viewers of this you do a good job. even so my " view" differs from yours by a wide margin and for very good fundamental reason. so i speak it with equal conviction. lastly, your videos generally avoid the " squid kid " modifications, presenting really intelligent modifications for a stated purpose. in this case science is firmly against u. keep up the good and getting better work . by the way , ive plans to delete my heat exchanger too. replacing it with a larger heat exchanger with its own cooled radiator. i can be rewarded with perfectly stable trans temps at about 185 to the pan
not at all likely to put strain on any component when properly heated and regulated fluids pass through the transmission. trans fluid too cool and accumulated moisture because of that condition is much harder on transmission components. you are giving bad advice here and it will bite. recently i went the other way. i deleted the air to fluid cooler in front deleted the heat exchanger on the block and went with a much larger heat exchanger strapped to the frame rail beneath driver position. so far , perfectly stable temperatures vastly reduced plumbing, eliminates much in clutter, makes keeping track of hose and potential leaks easier. its what dodge should have thought of initially but dodge being dodge fors what dodge does. additionally and for no reason really at all. its a short call to Goerend to confirm my assertions if validation is necessary.😮
Crazy how it's always a simple job that gets out of hand, great job....keep hammering
Hey Josh, a little FYI from out west in Arizona. The best trans cooling design ive installed and tested is to take 2 factory trans coolers up front, cut the thermostat bypass pipe off of the old one and tig the tubes closed so it is a full cool 100% of the time. lay it on the front of the stock cooler, tig it on. mounted in front. trans lines in series. full cool first then into the stock bypass cooler. Tstat opens at 180 degrees. I always over tow 28k lbs gross. temps are dreamy. 165 all the time, 30 minute hills at 5-7 percent grades 185- 210. In 110 degree ambient temps.
oh yeah of course the trans heater is deleted. although i left the heater on my aunts 2005 and it stays under 220 while towing there fifth wheel. so still good results for people that want to have it heat up quicker.
Great content! I love when my projects explode into rebuilding 3 or 4 different systems as part of a little upgrade. No time like the present to knock it out though. She should be worry free in no time.
You’re killing it on this mega! Keep these videos coming.
Great video again Josh rattle can over hall finishes it off 👍 it's looking better and better your going to be proud to open the hood
Take care stay safe and God bless 🙋🏻♂️ 🇬🇧
I've always given the torque converter cooler it's own cooler when doing that job. I like your setup. I always wondered why Chrysler chose not to use the heat exchanger on the 68fre 3rd gens but started using that billet block cross over with coolant and atf a few years later. I hate when they leak coolant into your transmission from rotting out.
These how-to’s have been awesome
Dang Josh, when i stood next to you i thought you were tall! your Work partner there is taller then you! makes working under a hood a bit easier! keep rolling! thanks for the videos!
I’m 6’2” Zach is like 6’8”
I added a 6.0 trans cooler to my 05 CR. Took some doing and fabing some brackets. That cooler is a massive heat sink! I do agree with you on taking heat sources our of the cooler stack and using remote mount coolers. Though I honestly think once the heat exchanger is removed from the equation, that's what cools the trans fluid down. My overall engine temps run around 185* now. It's a thing of beauty.
Have a 14 silverado that send the trans fluid through the AC condenser, then the radiator, and finally back to trans. So dumb!
One aux cooler and thermostat bypass later, trans temp rarely creeps above 140*. I'm south of I-10 in the heat belt.
What kind of oil do you use?
Love watching them subscribers climb! Good job Josh
Patiently waiting for my break out 😂
Can you attach the Vibrant "crimp" -8 fittings straight to the OE cooler, or do you have to cut/modify the tubing to accept the fitting 1st?
Not long enough to get a good crimp
@@horsetorquesdiesel So do I cut behind the "ring", where the factory lines would've bit onto, then install crimp -8s?
By the way i tried 2 Derale 10000 oil coolers in series in the stock cooler location and trans temps would over heat 220-230 just cruising around town. turns out the engineers got a handle on the thermodynamics with the stock cooler it basically needs to be a bit bigger because most people tow more than what the trucks are rated for. I also have a Derale 15800 with fan under the bed and i have seen no change in trans temps so im sure you can under stand the under the bed coolers do little to nothing. I believe the reason for that is they dont thin the fluid out enough like the stock front cooler does. it make sense that fluid needs to be thinned out in order the be cooled. rushing the fluid through high flow coolers provides very little heat transfer. After all i have not found anything that moves more air than the factory fan clutch.
Under bed coolers work just fine I use them on my quad cab for 2 years, used them on my 2011, 2006 mega cab etc. if they do not have enough air flow they do not work. People mount them too close to flat surfaces. Adding trans coolers up front has been proven to decrease the front cooling stack which when already over loaded is not enough radiator. With keeping a single stock cooler adding a larger radiator with the stock ram clutch that is the best way to increase cooling stack efficiency. It’s the same reason on newer trucks the Intercoolers are mounted low in the bumper for better radiator flow
That's escalated quickly. "forced maintenance" I always call that. I upgraded my steering box to a 6 bolt style. Way better.
Anyone know the size of that plug?
M16
Does it matter which transmission line goes where on the cooler?
So wait.....wait.....I can run the better 6.7 dampner on my CR 5.9 with no issues?
Yes, just need to run a 6.7 fan pulley or it rubs
Another awesome video josh nicely done.
What was the thread pitch on the bolt that goes into the block for the coolant line delete on the drivers side
-10 orb
what about passenger side by the oil filter?
Does anyone know the size of the plug needed for the block?
Either m10x1.5 orb or m12x1.5 orb
Thank you
@horsetorquesdiesel it's a M16X1.5 on my 06
Is there a certain kit on Amazon you would recommend just because I am about to do this same thing and have been trying to figure out what fittings I need to mate woth the transmission and if I need 90s and etc... and also the coolant plug size? Thank you for always going as independent as possible with what you use and the way you do stuff also❤❤ it's been a big help especially for those of us who haven't done a lot of aftermarket work to our trucks, I always just replaced stuff that went bad with oem parts and never really did anything with AN line or etc I know how it works just not used to the sizing and stuff
Does the 6.7 damper make the 5.9 have less vibration?
In the first part of the video you showed the blue silicone hose as the preferred hose, why then did you use the braided hose instead?
2 reasons. 1 this is npt to an not push hose style on the heater core. 2. I didn’t have the 10an push lock fittings 😂
I was at work the other day planning how I was gonna do this to my truck and was like why doesn't Josh have a video on this
So why replace the 5.9 balancer and then the pulley above for a 6.7? Just curious. I know you normally run Fluidampr on your balancer.
Answered in the video 👍🏼
change the water pump since its open now
What brand and part number is the Amazon line kit?
Just curious why you cut or removed the cross member between the radiator and charged air cooler.
I seen what you did with that title 😂
Are you using braided ptfe lines?
Thanks for all the videos
No
Great video!!
Just my thoughts and maybe I'm overthinking it but wouldn't installed a good cooler up front, such as a Mishimoto, FSD, or any of the bigger cooler setups. Wouldn't that be more than enough to keep it cool and keep it simple?
I did that exact thing. Removed my heat exchanger, installed a Mishimoto in the front, trans hit 250 in traffic on an 88⁰ day. Trans would also shoot up quick backing trailers into tight spots (D to R back and forth would heat it up)
Installed a secondary with a fan under the bed, no issues now.
Stop adding heat into the cooling stack!!!
@@theloafman2716 that's strange I installed the same cooler I haven't gotten over 160 even towing up steep grades.
Back in the Josh/Myer video; I deleted the heat exchanger and installed the PDD blue/Continental lines with a Mishimoto trans cooler. My truck runs in the northwest but have made trips to California. Haven’t gotten over 170degF in 95degF weather towing a 24’ camper trailer up decent grades. As Josh said too, on those cold mornings take it easy on the trans as it builds heat.
@@j.c.316 hey, by "mishimoto trans cooler"... Do you mean the one up front, or the torque converter cooler in between the block and the trans?
Is the coolant plug the same size as the ones on the passenger side? Just the normal cummins coolant plugs?❤❤❤
Also curious about this.
I have wished a few times that I had deleted those heat exchangers when I built both of my Fummins.
Where can I get the plug for the port on the block? Looked everywhere trying to find it.
Did you find a plug?
I’m looking also.
Full Send Diesel
M16x1.5 plug with o-ring seal
Awesome thanks homie
Does anyone make a kit to remove the heat exchanger and clean up the lines on the passenger side?
You sure are hatin’ on the Dmax !!!
I do too every time I have to work on one lol
Hell Yeah Brother 🇺🇸🦅
What is the purpose the 6.7 fan pulley and dampener?
A 5.9 pulley and a 6,7 balancer won’t let you take the belt off without removing the fan pulley
@@horsetorquesdiesel is the 6.7 balancer better? My 5.9 has 450,000 original miles on the original balancer.
I learned absolutely dick from this video... but it was still a good watch! 😂
Would you recommend the power driven trans line and cooler kit for a 3rd gen and exchanger delete?
Not with them shitty push lock fittings
why the 6.7 fan pulley? does it have to match with the 6.7 damper?
Yes it does. 5.9 fan pulley with a 6.7 damper you cant get the belt on due to the damper being larger. 6.7 fan pulley is re designed to have a small amount of clearance to get the belt on.
I found out the 6.7 also has a different water pump. It's got a different blade design and my 2013 actually has a smaller pulley than my 5.9 on the water pump. So I'm interested if putting a 6.7 water pump on a 5.9 helps anything or makes anything worse
Josh are you gonna turn that into a kit you can sell
Changed out my tensioner today with a new Gates all of a sudden belt started to walk off the AC pulley towards the block put the old one back on everything seems good or back to normal anyhow weird huh
Weird I’ve used those and dayco before. But could have gotten a dud!
@@horsetorquesdiesel update: power steering pulley needed adjusted moved it 1/8-3/16 towards the front of the truck belt no longer jumps a rib on the fluidampr
Have you ever run into a corrupted ecm ? I’ve got a 2013 6.7 that I recently deleated and now can’t get it to take a tune.
Yeah bench flash it
Without how much you payed for the truck how much do you have into all the stuff you've done to it so far?
By the time I’m done with everything this would be about a 25-30k bill to a customer
@Horsetorques Diesel pretty crazy. Thanks man
@@jakes_lbz gotta pay to play the trans alone retails for 9990! Fuel system 6400, engine upgrades 2000, turbo kit 3000, tuning 1000, suspension work 1900. Plus some more that I haven’t put on yet
i vehemently disagree with this practice for every kind of reason. even though we have been thru this before, i get to say it again Alot cooler!!! youdont want it a lot cooler 185 degrees please all day long
Free country, I don’t care what others think, we offer this service and I will stand behind my transmission warranty on this modification as well
@@horsetorquesdiesel
yes free country , not as free as it once was and a lot less free than some countries in the western world . even so with your star rising on u tube and the videos increasing in viewership and in quality the onus is on you to present with conviction your stance on a modification to your viewers of this you do a good job.
even so my " view" differs from yours by a wide margin and for very good fundamental reason. so i speak it with equal conviction.
lastly, your videos generally avoid the " squid kid " modifications, presenting really intelligent modifications for a stated purpose. in this case science is firmly against u. keep up the good and getting better work .
by the way , ive plans to delete my heat exchanger too. replacing it with a larger heat exchanger with its own cooled radiator. i can be rewarded with perfectly stable trans temps at about 185 to the pan
@@pugetlexus and you’ll continue to put unnecessary strain on the VB and the trans
not at all likely to put strain on any component when properly heated and regulated fluids pass through the transmission.
trans fluid too cool and accumulated moisture because of that condition is much harder on transmission components. you are giving bad advice here and it will bite.
recently i went the other way. i deleted the air to fluid cooler in front deleted the heat exchanger on the block and went with a much larger heat exchanger strapped to the frame rail beneath driver position.
so far , perfectly stable temperatures vastly reduced plumbing, eliminates much in clutter, makes keeping track of hose and potential leaks easier. its what dodge should have thought of initially but dodge being dodge fors what dodge does.
additionally and for no reason really at all. its a short call to Goerend to confirm my assertions if validation is necessary.😮