I just dont like the LED light, so im still using 240-400W halogen rods in my R7s/117,6mm lamps. You may not forget that LEDs need more energy when they are built, so you might not even save energy and money, or at least not as much as most people think. Because the LEDs cost 5-10 times more. In the winter you wont save any energy at all, because you need to turn your heater up. 95% heat 5% light sounds pretty nice to me in the winter. And the halogen light is more like the sun light, than the light of LEDs, which is really important to me in winter too. Im pretty sure it would help people with winter depressions, to have those really bright uplighter with 300-500W halogen bulbs.
Hi mcrubar Thank You very much! prices of LED's has come down,, and is now not that much more then we use to pay for the old light balls. But I do not usually think about that... Like I usually do not think much about the glass,, when I buy a glass of pickles. :-/ Thank you for watching! :-)
unsure if this has been mentioned, for the wattage vs true wattage discrepancy part of the issue is that most these bulbs are not exactly made using specific standards, many contain insufficient internal transformers/led drivers; technically the led(s) can be 15w but be driven by less current than is required for the max brightness(7watts being used of 15w potential) and yet still be marketed as 15w..... this applies to any led based 120/220v bulb but of course there's still led quality differences too..... if you feel like tinkering it's usually possible to take em apart unsolder/cut the driver transformer and power it with an external 12-18~ volt adapter(assuming it's the strip based bulbs; can also pull out a dmm and check voltage too), as with anything be careful if you decide to try it as they can be quite hot depending and the driver may contain capacitors that can give a nice bite
just wanted to leave an update since it might be handy for someone out there....ordered r7s 5w back in oct 15 2017 with intention of using them outside in motion censors, as with yours they're not as bright as the 50w halogens but that's fine, what I was more concerned is if they'd last the winter, winter isn't over but I think it's safe to say the cold seems to have no effect on them what so ever(has reached -27c and had multiple days in the -20's:P) :)..... other than that, I was wrong these do not seem to use transformers as incandescent replacements do(unless possible the 220v~ variant, as I'm in Canada these are 120v~)... thanks again
Interesting. I do hope that sometime in the future, LED replacements for halogen fixtures is better. I've personally given up on finding LED replacements for my halogen fixtures and swapped most of the fixtures to ones that can take normal bulbs so I can still use LED light in them
I think that wall meter isn't measuring these accurately. To measure them correctly, you should rig up a little junction box where you can put a multimeter in series with the load to measure current, and you'll get a much more accurate measurement. Also, taking a look with a scope would tell you a lot, some of these LED modules have built-in SMPS, and they can kick out a lot of noise into the line, which can confuse the Kill-A-Watt type devices. Also, the flickering one that showed 0 watts was probably just using a capacitive dropper, and because the phase angle was so messed up, it didn't even try and show a reading. It even shows 1.00 as the power factor, but there's no way it's going to flicker like that with just a resistive load.
Well, The candle effect as you call it is probably because of the dimmable function... as those functions are probably using a PWM controller to regulate the voltage to dim the light...
Hi +Can Özdemir Yes i do also think the meter is not able to measure it,, I did get 6$ back for the bulb,, so that was okay. Thank you for watching! :-)
I have a "worklight" that uses a 400w r7s and it eats power like crazy. I was hoping I would have found a good replacement for the power hungry bulb, Apparently not.
That energy meter is way too inaccurate to measure on this. The powermeter is good with pure restive loads, but as soom as the load gets more inductive they have a huge error factor
+My PlayHouse (Morten Hjorth) I guess that the bulb which supposedly consumes 100W has a ballast inside of it rather than a driver, thus creating a considerable phase shift between U and I and driving your meter crazy. Ballast usually uses film cap to limit current, take it apart and check. I'm 95% sure that it uses a ballast
yeah, 100 W for a LED is clear BS. Other than light, the watts would be emitted as heat thus burning the LED very quickly. Can't possibly be running at 100 W.
@@MyPlayHouse I go a floor lamp, says made in china, type J, I measure 105 mm from pin to pin in the bulb socket , I see bulb ads for 78 mm to 118 mm, which one will fit my bulb socket ?
I've noticed an annoying strobe effect with the cylindrical ones, otherwise they are pretty good, a real pity. my line is 50hz though... Maybe in countries with 60hz it is less noticeable.
Candlelight effect? More like migraine effect. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any LEDs that can compete with halogen bulbs of similar size yet. CFLs are really popular, but all of them flicker.
Hi +PeepBunnies There is the 100W LED's they are very very bright : amzn.to/1SOP2sJ I do think they give more light than a halogen bulb,,,,It´s the elektronic that makes them flicker (Or at MyPlayHouse,, gives the romantic candle effect :-P ) Thank you for watching! :-)
Yo Morty! Before you state the light is flickering due to the light bulb being the problem, you might want to check to see if your power to the bulb is correct, and see if your light switch is an LED bulb compatible light switch. If you are using a standard dimmer, it is not compatible with LED bulbs and will cause the flicker because incandescent bulbs dim on a different principle than LED's do. With an incandescent bulb, it dims by the dimmer lowering the power to the bulb and thereby the bulb filament get's lower power and the filament glows less hot and therefor less bright. LED's do not dim. Did you hear that? LED lights physically DO NOT DIM! Did you hear that again? LED bulbs DO NOT DIM, they do not go to 50% power like an incandescent bulb because an LED CAN NOT dim the way a filament can. Unlike Filament bulbs that have continuous power to them and glow dim or bright by how much power is put to the filament through the dimmer, LED's are INSTANT ON or INSTANT OFF! There is NO IN BETWEEN! Did you get that? They are FULL ON, OR FULL OFF! Think of it like a motion picture. You see 16 frames per second that gives you the impression someone is jogging on film yet you see STILL FRAMES on each frame and when put in motion with a flickering shutter it appears to fool your eye that the person is running. This means when you see an LED being say 50% or 25% power, you are seeing the LED full on, not at 50% or 25%. But you are saying to me, "I see it dimmed! It's dimmed! It has to be!" Well there you would be wrong! There are NEW LED dimmers you must buy to put in an LED bulb and have it work properly in a dimming mode. The reason being, LED's are in fact instant on or off. NEW LED Dimmers work on a different concept than filament bulb dimmers do. Instead of reducing power to the bulb, you need to understand HOW an LED works when it operates on, or off. LED bulbs BLINK! They flicker on, and off at a rate of around 120 times per second. Your eye perceives them as on constantly, however, they are not. Your eye will notice below 60 times a second. Dimming an LED is controlled through slowing the speed down of which the bulb turns on and off. LED dimming is achieved by pulse width modulation, rather than changing the peak current. Therefor, you are seeing the SPEED of which the bulb turns on and off, SLOWED DOWN by the current being pulsed to the LED bulb so that the bulb appears to be dimmed but it's still at full power brightness, but your eye is seeing it turned on less times per second and therefor your eyes perceive it as 50% or 25% power when in fact the LED is full on. But full on, just not as much of the time so you are seeing it full on, but full off say half the time for 50% dim and say 75% off when it looks 25% dim. So newer LED dimmers need to be purchased to dim an LED. It's possible you are using switches that are very old technology. Try these bulbs with the proper switches supplying the power. Now, if you are in the USA, it will be 110v and in other countries could be 220. Make sure the bulb is rated for your current. There are cheap inexpensive slide like LED dimmers and there are the expensive digital dimmers that have little LED's to show you visually how much current is going to the bulb. Either will work as long as they are LED compatible.
Hi King Stud Boy Sorry,, you are wrong. An LED will dim just fine,, a LED might be working from 2v to 5v and it will not give the same amount of light. 2v will be very dim, 5v will be brite. A lot of 110 and 220v LED bulbs will use a switch mode power supply. and that will not dim very vell. Unless it uses PWM - (pulse width modulation) which is what you tried to explain to me. This can work, but it will flicker if the PWM frequency is not high enough. (if the electronic is crap) To make a good dimmable LED light,, you use a PWM to control the voltages to the LED (That is done by using capacitors to smooth out the signal from the PWM, which endes up controlling the voltages.) How the **** did you come up with : "LED lights physically DO NOT DIM! Did you hear that again?" I have been playing with LED's sins i was 7 years,, back then i fund that a new battery made the LED brighter then a old one. Thank you for watching! :-)
I have the same type of LAMP I bought a 30 watt 200watt equivalent bulb our switch died years ago so the lamp was just made direct with no switch. it worked with the old bulb which used 300 watts. It took over a month to get the 30Watt LED J TYPE replacement. I cannot make the LEDs go full bright ness if I tap on the bulb some of the LEDS light up a little bit. All the Compatible Dimmers I have seen so far are for use in a wall. I need something small to fit inside the tube leading to the bulb. the company says I need a Triac Dimmer. I really could careless if the bulb is dimmable as long as I get full brightness the lumen equivalent of 200watt bulb
Who has US$ prices and 220v floor lamps? Torchier lamps would be best with one side LED display while 360 degree should be used in work lamp fixtures with reflectors.
and so I find you again... lol didn't expect to search these bulbs and find one of your videos:P; I thought youtube was messing up results or something
hello. how its possible that the first light (the big) consumes 115wats if only said 10wats?. i think to buy it but before to see this...thanks and sorry for my english . hi from spain
Hi GaudOffRoad Thank You very much! Well some of the elektronic that drives these LED,, can be really weird,, I think I tried a nothere meter and got a better result. Thank you for watching! :-)
Hi +beaker15 I live in Denmark in Europe, we have 220volt that is slowly going to 240volt :-),,same outlets as Norway, Sweden and Germany :-) and a lot more,, even in India i could use my things. Thank you for watching! :-)
Oh okay thats pretty cool, I live in the US so I don't see many outlets like that. And I got to say I love watching your videos especially server videos and i'm suprized you don't have a 100k subscribers yet. But thanks for the great videos and please keep them coming!
Hi +beaker15 Thank you,, well It takes time to get to 100K subscribers,, i do know that the Server videos are very popular,, you get another one on monday :-) You can help me out,, by liking and sharing,, the videos you like :-) Thank you for watching! :-)
HI Juan Carlos Barroso Orellana My channel is English, and to make sure as many as possible, can also enjoy the comments, they are also English. Please keep to English. Thank you for watching! :-)
You are severely misleading people! About the measured power readings, you are completely wrong: Your power meter ignores the phase relation between voltage and current and shows "apparent power". Some LED lamps have series capacitors to reduce the mains voltage, resulting in the sine current and voltage waveforms offset by nearly 90 degrees, i.e. they reach their max at different time (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor). By just multiplying current and voltage and ignoring the power factor, you make a huge error, up to 95%. Other LED lamps use resistors in stead of capacitors, but these generate extra heat while capacitors don't. The given power data for the LED lamps are "Real power" and that is the power you'll pay for. With a power meter that includes power factor measurement you will enable correct interpretation of the results. Using a proper power meter you'll come probably to inverted conclusions regarding power consumption!
Hi Andre You might be right,, but the LED's did not give the amount of light, that I would expect from the announced watt's. Thank you for watching! :-)
You not know anything about physics Those values on LED lights is only theoretical How bright light is depend on Lumen numbers only Each LED chip have own qualities - efficiency LM/W Today very modern LED CHIP can have efficiency 150lm/1W Your lights are very low LM * you can get max LM on LED with chip 5730 * 30W R7S 3300 LM Yours R7S giving about 1300 LM
Hi +Jaguar Well I did not get what i waned or paid for. and my LED light did not use the watts it shout or give out anything near the light. Thank you for watching! :-)
Yes I understand * LED light new things and who is selling them same way not know any things and talking about Watts what is wrong to describe LED brightens by Watts. One on of your light taking 100W and is wrong I believe something with the driver Simple formula is 100W of standard bulb brightness output to achieved from LED Bulb going to consume in north american 110V about 5 Watts 1000 LM 1500 LM 1600 LM = depend on LED chip efficiency - some are very bright = give you light ouput of 100W Filament bulb. ********************************************** I ordered on Ebay from China R7S 30W with led chip 5730 giving out 3300 LM at light temperature 5000K = something like 300 WAtts filament bulb.
I just dont like the LED light, so im still using 240-400W halogen rods in my R7s/117,6mm lamps. You may not forget that LEDs need more energy when they are built, so you might not even save energy and money, or at least not as much as most people think. Because the LEDs cost 5-10 times more.
In the winter you wont save any energy at all, because you need to turn your heater up. 95% heat 5% light sounds pretty nice to me in the winter. And the halogen light is more like the sun light, than the light of LEDs, which is really important to me in winter too. Im pretty sure it would help people with winter depressions, to have those really bright uplighter with 300-500W halogen bulbs.
Hi mcrubar
Thank You very much! prices of LED's has come down,, and is now not that much more then we use to pay for the old light balls. But I do not usually think about that... Like I usually do not think much about the glass,, when I buy a glass of pickles. :-/
Thank you for watching! :-)
unsure if this has been mentioned, for the wattage vs true wattage discrepancy part of the issue is that most these bulbs are not exactly made using specific standards, many contain insufficient internal transformers/led drivers; technically the led(s) can be 15w but be driven by less current than is required for the max brightness(7watts being used of 15w potential) and yet still be marketed as 15w..... this applies to any led based 120/220v bulb but of course there's still led quality differences too..... if you feel like tinkering it's usually possible to take em apart unsolder/cut the driver transformer and power it with an external 12-18~ volt adapter(assuming it's the strip based bulbs; can also pull out a dmm and check voltage too), as with anything be careful if you decide to try it as they can be quite hot depending and the driver may contain capacitors that can give a nice bite
Often the LED's will last a really long time,, but the driver circuit,, not so much :-/
just wanted to leave an update since it might be handy for someone out there....ordered r7s 5w back in oct 15 2017 with intention of using them outside in motion censors, as with yours they're not as bright as the 50w halogens but that's fine, what I was more concerned is if they'd last the winter, winter isn't over but I think it's safe to say the cold seems to have no effect on them what so ever(has reached -27c and had multiple days in the -20's:P) :)..... other than that, I was wrong these do not seem to use transformers as incandescent replacements do(unless possible the 220v~ variant, as I'm in Canada these are 120v~)... thanks again
Hi plasmar1
Thank You very much! glad you light works :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Interesting. I do hope that sometime in the future, LED replacements for halogen fixtures is better. I've personally given up on finding LED replacements for my halogen fixtures and swapped most of the fixtures to ones that can take normal bulbs so I can still use LED light in them
Hi +sized4spills
Well they are getting there,,,not there yet! but on the way :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
I think that wall meter isn't measuring these accurately. To measure them correctly, you should rig up a little junction box where you can put a multimeter in series with the load to measure current, and you'll get a much more accurate measurement. Also, taking a look with a scope would tell you a lot, some of these LED modules have built-in SMPS, and they can kick out a lot of noise into the line, which can confuse the Kill-A-Watt type devices. Also, the flickering one that showed 0 watts was probably just using a capacitive dropper, and because the phase angle was so messed up, it didn't even try and show a reading. It even shows 1.00 as the power factor, but there's no way it's going to flicker like that with just a resistive load.
That is a good sugestion.
Well,
The candle effect as you call it is probably because of the dimmable function... as those functions are probably using a PWM controller to regulate the voltage to dim the light...
Hi +LuvFPS
I do also think so,, bur they shout be dimmable,,so :-/
Thank you for watching! :-)
well, Ibrought this in my house ,it work very well amzn.to/2YQ36Jv
In the video, you like the light bulb of the $ 8.61 plastic bulb the best. Where can I buy it or is there a better bulb today ?
I just ordered new ones the other day,, so I will be making a new video when I get them. But aliexpress.com
How is it possible that the 11.85$ LED bulb consumes 0W, is the watt-meter is wrong or it just consumes so little the meter can't measure it?
Hi +Can Özdemir
Yes i do also think the meter is not able to measure it,, I did get 6$ back for the bulb,, so that was okay.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Cold fusion
I have a "worklight" that uses a 400w r7s and it eats power like crazy. I was hoping I would have found a good replacement for the power hungry bulb, Apparently not.
Hi +Bouncer05
I have not given up on this yet,, but has not got the good shit yet :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
That energy meter is way too inaccurate to measure on this. The powermeter is good with pure restive loads, but as soom as the load gets more inductive they have a huge error factor
Hi +Martin Mathiesen
Yarh,, you are probably right,,, need a better meter.
Thank you for watching! :-)
+My PlayHouse (Morten Hjorth) I guess that the bulb which supposedly consumes 100W has a ballast inside of it rather than a driver, thus creating a considerable phase shift between U and I and driving your meter crazy. Ballast usually uses film cap to limit current, take it apart and check. I'm 95% sure that it uses a ballast
yeah, 100 W for a LED is clear BS. Other than light, the watts would be emitted as heat thus burning the LED very quickly. Can't possibly be running at 100 W.
take a measurement of how long are the bulbs
Well they should be 118mm 🤔
@@MyPlayHouse I go a floor lamp, says made in china, type J, I measure 105 mm from pin to pin in the bulb socket , I see bulb ads for 78 mm to 118 mm, which one will fit my bulb socket ?
I've noticed an annoying strobe effect with the cylindrical ones, otherwise they are pretty good, a real pity. my line is 50hz though... Maybe in countries with 60hz it is less noticeable.
Hi Crazy Wolfgang
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Candlelight effect? More like migraine effect. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any LEDs that can compete with halogen bulbs of similar size yet. CFLs are really popular, but all of them flicker.
Hi +PeepBunnies
There is the 100W LED's they are very very bright : amzn.to/1SOP2sJ
I do think they give more light than a halogen bulb,,,,It´s the elektronic that makes them flicker (Or at MyPlayHouse,, gives the romantic candle effect :-P )
Thank you for watching! :-)
Yo Morty! Before you state the light is flickering due to the light bulb being the problem, you might want to check to see if your power to the bulb is correct, and see if your light switch is an LED bulb compatible light switch. If you are using a standard dimmer, it is not compatible with LED bulbs and will cause the flicker because incandescent bulbs dim on a different principle than LED's do. With an incandescent bulb, it dims by the dimmer lowering the power to the bulb and thereby the bulb filament get's lower power and the filament glows less hot and therefor less bright. LED's do not dim. Did you hear that? LED lights physically DO NOT DIM! Did you hear that again? LED bulbs DO NOT DIM, they do not go to 50% power like an incandescent bulb because an LED CAN NOT dim the way a filament can. Unlike Filament bulbs that have continuous power to them and glow dim or bright by how much power is put to the filament through the dimmer, LED's are INSTANT ON or INSTANT OFF! There is NO IN BETWEEN! Did you get that? They are FULL ON, OR FULL OFF! Think of it like a motion picture. You see 16 frames per second that gives you the impression someone is jogging on film yet you see STILL FRAMES on each frame and when put in motion with a flickering shutter it appears to fool your eye that the person is running. This means when you see an LED being say 50% or 25% power, you are seeing the LED full on, not at 50% or 25%. But you are saying to me, "I see it dimmed! It's dimmed! It has to be!" Well there you would be wrong! There are NEW LED dimmers you must buy to put in an LED bulb and have it work properly in a dimming mode. The reason being, LED's are in fact instant on or off. NEW LED Dimmers work on a different concept than filament bulb dimmers do. Instead of reducing power to the bulb, you need to understand HOW an LED works when it operates on, or off. LED bulbs BLINK! They flicker on, and off at a rate of around 120 times per second. Your eye perceives them as on constantly, however, they are not. Your eye will notice below 60 times a second. Dimming an LED is controlled through slowing the speed down of which the bulb turns on and off. LED dimming is achieved by pulse width modulation, rather than changing the peak current. Therefor, you are seeing the SPEED of which the bulb turns on and off, SLOWED DOWN by the current being pulsed to the LED bulb so that the bulb appears to be dimmed but it's still at full power brightness, but your eye is seeing it turned on less times per second and therefor your eyes perceive it as 50% or 25% power when in fact the LED is full on. But full on, just not as much of the time so you are seeing it full on, but full off say half the time for 50% dim and say 75% off when it looks 25% dim. So newer LED dimmers need to be purchased to dim an LED. It's possible you are using switches that are very old technology. Try these bulbs with the proper switches supplying the power. Now, if you are in the USA, it will be 110v and in other countries could be 220. Make sure the bulb is rated for your current. There are cheap inexpensive slide like LED dimmers and there are the expensive digital dimmers that have little LED's to show you visually how much current is going to the bulb. Either will work as long as they are LED compatible.
Hi King Stud Boy
Sorry,, you are wrong. An LED will dim just fine,, a LED might be working from 2v to 5v and it will not give the same amount of light. 2v will be very dim, 5v will be brite.
A lot of 110 and 220v LED bulbs will use a switch mode power supply. and that will not dim very vell. Unless it uses PWM - (pulse width modulation) which is what you tried to explain to me. This can work, but it will flicker if the PWM frequency is not high enough. (if the electronic is crap)
To make a good dimmable LED light,, you use a PWM to control the voltages to the LED (That is done by using capacitors to smooth out the signal from the PWM, which endes up controlling the voltages.)
How the **** did you come up with : "LED lights physically DO NOT DIM! Did you hear that again?"
I have been playing with LED's sins i was 7 years,, back then i fund that a new battery made the LED brighter then a old one.
Thank you for watching! :-)
well, Ibrought this in my house ,it work very well amzn.to/2YQ36Jv
I have the same type of LAMP I bought a 30 watt 200watt equivalent bulb our switch died years ago so the lamp was just made direct with no switch. it worked with the old bulb which used 300 watts. It took over a month to get the 30Watt LED J TYPE replacement. I cannot make the LEDs go full bright ness if I tap on the bulb some of the LEDS light up a little bit. All the Compatible Dimmers I have seen so far are for use in a wall. I need something small to fit inside the tube leading to the bulb. the company says I need a Triac Dimmer. I really could careless if the bulb is dimmable as long as I get full brightness the lumen equivalent of 200watt bulb
This is kind of an older video,, but I just happened to order two new r7s,, so will come back to this ;-)
Who has US$ prices and 220v floor lamps? Torchier lamps would be best with one side LED display while 360 degree should be used in work lamp fixtures with reflectors.
Hi Mark Garin
Thank You very much! 24-25% of my audiences are from the US,, and they are not use to other currencies.
Thank you for watching! :-)
@@MyPlayHouse yeah but we don't have 220v lamps.
well, Ibrought this in my house ,it work very well amzn.to/2YQ36Jv
and so I find you again... lol didn't expect to search these bulbs and find one of your videos:P; I thought youtube was messing up results or something
Hi plasmar1
I enjoy messing around with different stuff. :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
hello. how its possible that the first light (the big) consumes 115wats if only said 10wats?. i think to buy it but before to see this...thanks and sorry for my english . hi from spain
Hi GaudOffRoad
Thank You very much! Well some of the elektronic that drives these LED,, can be really weird,, I think I tried a nothere meter and got a better result.
Thank you for watching! :-)
You got the drywall up yet?
Hi the eabster
:-) most likely..
Thank you for watching! :-)
So what country do you live in? I'm just curious about what kind of outlet that is for the power.
Hi +beaker15
I live in Denmark in Europe, we have 220volt that is slowly going to 240volt :-),,same outlets as Norway, Sweden and Germany :-) and a lot more,, even in India i could use my things.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Oh okay thats pretty cool, I live in the US so I don't see many outlets like that. And I got to say I love watching your videos especially server videos and i'm suprized you don't have a 100k subscribers yet. But thanks for the great videos and please keep them coming!
Hi +beaker15
Thank you,, well It takes time to get to 100K subscribers,, i do know that the Server videos are very popular,, you get another one on monday :-) You can help me out,, by liking and sharing,, the videos you like :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
the one bulbs is flickering because the bulb is meant for dc power and you have an ac power source.
ok muy bueno. un saludo de spain.
HI Juan Carlos Barroso Orellana
My channel is English, and to make sure as many as possible, can also enjoy the comments, they are also English.
Please keep to English.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Awesome comparrison my friend.
Hi +Raymond Earle
Just trying to show you the light :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
not a candle effect.
Hi rob
That was a dry joke!
Thank you for watching! :-)
You are severely misleading people! About the measured power readings, you are completely wrong: Your power meter ignores the phase relation between voltage and current and shows "apparent power". Some LED lamps have series capacitors to reduce the mains voltage, resulting in the sine current and voltage waveforms offset by nearly 90 degrees, i.e. they reach their max at different time (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor). By just multiplying current and voltage and ignoring the power factor, you make a huge error, up to 95%. Other LED lamps use resistors in stead of capacitors, but these generate extra heat while capacitors don't. The given power data for the LED lamps are "Real power" and that is the power you'll pay for. With a power meter that includes power factor measurement you will enable correct interpretation of the results. Using a proper power meter you'll come probably to inverted conclusions regarding power consumption!
Hi Andre
You might be right,, but the LED's did not give the amount of light, that I would expect from the announced watt's.
Thank you for watching! :-)
You not know anything about physics
Those values on LED lights is only theoretical
How bright light is depend on Lumen numbers only
Each LED chip have own qualities - efficiency LM/W
Today very modern LED CHIP can have efficiency 150lm/1W
Your lights are very low LM * you can get max LM on LED with chip 5730 * 30W R7S 3300 LM Yours R7S giving about 1300 LM
Hi +Jaguar
Well I did not get what i waned or paid for. and my LED light did not use the watts it shout or give out anything near the light.
Thank you for watching! :-)
Yes I understand * LED light new things and who is selling them same way not know any things and talking about Watts what is wrong to describe LED brightens by Watts.
One on of your light taking 100W and is wrong
I believe something with the driver
Simple formula is 100W of standard bulb brightness output to achieved from LED Bulb going to consume in north american 110V about 5 Watts
1000 LM 1500 LM 1600 LM = depend on LED chip efficiency - some are very bright = give you light ouput of 100W Filament bulb.
**********************************************
I ordered on Ebay from China R7S 30W with led chip 5730 giving out 3300 LM at light temperature 5000K = something like 300 WAtts filament bulb.