Your videos have been a great help, I was stuck there for a minute but have worked out my issues and after all the presets I'd true and my tuning efforts and got nowhere, changed esc's to 48khz now I've got a perfect flying quad again with plenty of room to move in my pids. Cheers 😎
Great video man, I appreciate you making it. I watch a lot of your rips and can appreciate a good tune. I am still learning myself, getting better but still am trying to learn the filtering side of the blackbox and what filters I need and don't need and in what ranges the filtering needs to take place. Thanks for your participation in the community bro. Keep up the awesome work!
Trying my best to make it straight forward and simple. You can always do a lot more than this to get even better performance but these suggestions should make a noticeable difference over stock.
The amount you can do is super deep. I started by looking up as much information as possible and just trial and error. As long as you have a safe place to test and you're always prepared to disarm if something isn't right, you can really learn a lot.
Good video. at 10:44 I think you should try having the yaw lowpass on. Since yaw is such a slow responding axis anyways, the latency isn't really much of a problem. Its basically a free filter, thats why its default is so low. it cost you nothing and will benefit you in edge cases.
I've tried with and without on multiple drones and really didn't notice any difference at all. I'll give it another shot and zip around for a few days and pay closer attention. I'm a huge fan of yours btw. You're the reason I switched to no hypersmooth or stabilization.
@@MurdersFPV haha thanks, no stabilization is the way! And yeah, that's the thing, you really can't tell you have it on them you might as well have it on. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. My experience is similar to yours where most quads it's not a huge diff
hi, can you please elaborate more about the difference in tuning for the cinewhoop you mentioned at at the beginning of this video? I would like to know which settings you recommend on it. THANKS!
I tried 4.3 for the first time today. I am using a Rotor Riot HD1 frame with T-motor F60s. The kwad couldnt even take off, when applied some throttle it wobbled around like crazy. It turns out that my Master Multiplier doesn´t work for my build moving it forward, in fact, I had to move it backwards to about 0.7 and then it started flying. Its weird but well, it is what it is.
@@MurdersFPV Mamba F405 dji MK2 , gopro session mounted. the curious thing is that it was flying Ok with BF 4.2, as soon as I flash to 4.3 it didn’t want to take off. Reducing the master was the only way to make it fly.
@@djrialdo so I know that PIDs were raised from 4.2 to 4.3 and the filter changes improved a lot from 4.2 to 4.3 but it can be a bit taxing as far as CPU usage for some F4 processors. Most issues I've seen with 4.3 have come from F4 processors. What's your CPU usage at the bottom of the screen while your plugged in and in Betaflight?
@@djrialdo that's really not bad at all. Wondering if you bump your PIDs too high and you plug in a battery, remove the props, and check the option in the motors tab to allow it to arm and see how high CPU usage goes up when you throttle up a little on your remote.
Great info just updated to 4.3 on my 5” armattan running all defaults and rpm filtering ...fly great but getting hot motors should I drop the master multiplier ... pwm is 24hz 😊
You could drop it but I'd honestly give 48khz a shot. There's been a recent Chris Rosser video that proves higher pwm is far more efficient without any noticeable loss of torque and thrust. Also, always check mechanicals of your build. Is there anything you can do to reduce vibrations. It really helps a lot.
@@MurdersFPV thanks for that I will try 48pwm just seemed strange I’ve got 4.3RC2 all defaults and quad new build machaniclly sound no vibration Armanttan .. hot motors Thanks for all your help 48hz 😊👍
I would say yes only because I've been able to get higher PID gains on 48khz over 24khz. You don't have to but I would because I'm OCD and love tuning. 😛
@@MurdersFPV I tried 48khz awhile ago on an older tune but I think my esc didn't like it. Too much oscillation at zero throttle I couldn't get rid of but I also don't have a 32 bit esc. I haven't tried 48khz on 4.3..yet. Keep up the good work!
hey i crashed my drone into a tree and it was left there in the rain for about 6 days, i replaced everything except for the FC and ive been getting extremly hot motors at hover ever since i rescured it; i didnt touch the pids or filters before the crash and my motors never got hot. is there a high chance that my gryo is just damaged? the drone is mechanically fine.
It's super possible that there was a lot of random water damage and it's tough to tell what the extent is. Are you able to make some logs? If so you can see if the gyro is super noisy.
@@MurdersFPV im not the best at analysing black box data but there is alot of high frequency squigly lines (at hover) in all axes. i lock tighted every screw on the frame, and after the crash i replaced literally everything except for the frame and FC. Its also worth mentioning that the motors do this behaviour arbitrarily, there is no pattern what so ever; i.e. it would actually fly alright (medium to hot motors) but then after i come back and land to swap lipos it suddenly decides it wants to make a whailing noise and the motors get so hot that u can smell the coils burning it is anything but a pleasant smell.
@@haks_123 😳 yeah that's not good. There isn't any rust built up right? I'd definitely give all the components a really good look over and even clean them with some isopropyl alcohol
@@MurdersFPV not that i see any, no. Well all 4 motors, and the esc was replaced so it cant have any rust but from a quick glance of the fc i dont see any rust. honestly i might aswell replace the fc at this point i cant put my poor motors under any more stress.
It could be a build issue. If your motors are hot on default settings, you may need to look over the build and make sure nothing could be causing excessive noise/vibrations on the gyro. That includes loose screws, dangling wires, and antennas. Proper filtering is necessary for the motors to stay cool so the next step would be to take a proper Black Box log and see how the noise looks on the quad. If you would like some help reviewing your Black Box logs you can message me on Instagram @murdersfpv. I'd be happy to help.
What does the motor trilling sound like? I just bumped my PWM frequency from 24 to 48... motors never got hot but my motors did sound different than they did on 24khz. The sound was a higher pitch but I can't tell if its unusual because all my other quads are on 48, this is the first one I've built where I've flown it on anything less than 48khz. The sound wasn't necessarily concerning... it was just different.
It's a fluttering sound. Generally high pitch. If your are trying the TPA and TPA breakpoint of .75 and 1750 try .65 and 1650. 48khz normally makes motors sound smoother.
These settings have long since been the standard for best efficiency for typical 5" quads backed by guys like Chris Rosser or UAV Tech. Recently Chris Rosser did a video with updated information for some of the latest ESCs. Ones capable if doing 128khz PWM. He suggested that if using that setting, a ramp up power of up to 30-40% is ideal and a timing of 16-23 is good.
I've just updated my two 5" quads to 4.3 and I'm learning how to filter and tune 'em right. I'm still on the fence about updating my cinewhoops. Are you going to make any videos about 2.5 and 3" whoops on 4.3? I would be really intererested to see how much they change between firmwares. Thanks for the tips!
So I'm still getting really in depth with cinewhoops and my experience so far has been both good and bad. I have one whoop that has an F7 FC with a BLHeli_32 ESC and it flies great on 4.3. I have another whoop that is an AIO FC/ESC with an F4 processor and that completely sucked on 4.3. I ended up going to an older version of 4.2 in order to make it fly well. All my 5" quads are F7s and they have no issues. I've had a lot more people tell me their experience was mediocre with F4 processors and 4.3
@@MurdersFPV hmmm maybe I will have trouble with my 5"'s because both of them are f4, I haven't properly tested them yet. One of my cinewhoops is f7 with blheli s and I have a 3" with f4 and blheli 32. So maybe it's worth to update the f7 one and see if there's any improvment! Thanks and I've subbed to see your findings on whoops and 4.3!
Yes, as long as you aren't cutting off the filter and allowing unwanted noise into the gyro. You'd want to take a look at Blackbox logs to determine that. Another way to tell would be reduced flight performance and hot motors. You can try 1.3 but be sure to do safe test flights before going too crazy. Be ready to disarm at all times.
Hey now. What do you think of the Apex HD. I am a 1 quad man, and I want to finally upgrade my trusty old Martien 2 That I have been using for years. I always use a GoPro. Looking for a recommendation. Thanks. I’ll try your tips on my Martien.
@@MurdersFPV Good to know and thank you for getting back to me so quickly. Looking forward to your future videos, maybe you can make one for 2”-3” quads looking at the various filter’s settings like you did in this one - just hoping. 🤞🤞
I go over all the current settings I'm using right now in this video but I would be super cautious using my exact PIDs because this is my drones specific tune. I'd recommend take the master multiplier up a tad and make sure nothing crazy is going on before you push it too high.
Hello, I have tried to install 4.3 on my Nazgul5 v2 Analog F4 (4s) and when I saw CPU load on value of 55% I go back to 4.2 and this value back to 7%. What do you think about it? Should I worry about it or not because I sow 56% on your quad F7
I've been racking my brain trying to get my Iflight Titan into DFU mode. Different cables, different drivers, the driver fixer etc... the one thing I think might work is unsoldering everything from the FC.....but idk if that would work...you seem to be the pro at this stuff...does that make any sense? I've made some changes that you said but need to get this thing flashed somehow. Thank you for the video.
I wouldn't waste the time unsoldering. I've had that issue with multiple iFlight FC to the point that's I've had a few replaced and eventually stopped using them. Not sure if youre running an iFlight FC but the only time I get one to work when it started doing that was when I used the driver fixer on it over and over till eventually it worked.
I know release candidate 3 should be coming out soon. If that's not the full release I'm willing to bet that it will be not much longer after that one. There hasn't been a set in stone date yet but it seems like it's just about ready.
New sub here I just built an apex 4" was thinking about switching over to 4.3 but am still kinda nervous I hear there is some kind of failsafe bug so I've been trying to hold off for now I to am also passionate about tuning and have gotten pretty good at it just a trying to get better at the little things
Being hesitant is perfectly understandable. I'm really looking forward to the full release because a lot more people are going to be willing to try it and I know they will love it.
I tried this with a new glide build with a radix 2. It shot up at warp speed and before i reacted to disarm it was already realy high. Anyways it came slamming down into some concrete. Its maiden crash.
Sorry to hear that, bro. That sounds as though there may have been other factors in play. Nothing I recommended would cause that behavior unless you had a bad gyro and in that case, pure defaults would have resulted in the same crash.
@@MurdersFPV Indeed there were problems. Turns out i made a mistake in how i stacked my electronics. Some plastic spacers i installed under the esc was rattling making a large amount noise on the yaw. So, it went crazy with no filter on the yaw. Anyways i have corrected the problem and it fly's pretty good on those settings. Thanks man!
"various Communities on Facebook"... Sigh. Still don't get how in FPV which is somewhat technical, with lot's of opensource, sharing-is-caring, Github, tinkering etc. so to say a technical enthusiasts hobby, and yet so much communication is done through Facebook. I fail to get it.
I know it doesn't. But I don't tune my drone solely off what people say is needed and not needed. If I flew on 24khz full time I would agree with you. I use 48khz+ on 2207 motors and thrust linearization makes a noticeable difference in my eyes. My process is about testing things several times and determining what I feel flies better. It may not be right for you but I have several flight videos which highlight my style and my drones flight performance that tend to prove my process is sound. I don't fly with stabilization because I choose to have the full FOV and I am not a fan of stabilization warping the footage. I do a lot of zero throttle inverted maneuvers and thrust linearization prevent wobbles in those situations. It's a personal perspective and a choice. One I implore you to test yourself rather than simply taking the word of someone who said it is not needed. Even if they are someone who may have plenty of proven knowledge on the subject. Everything mentioned in this video are things to try and see if you experience better flight performance. If not, fine. Don't use it. The idea is to get people to step out of their comfort zone and try different things. Here is an excert from the Betaflight 4.3 wiki: Zero throttle instability go back to 24kHZ PWM if you've set the ESC to 48kHz enable dynamic idle at 3500- 4000 RPM try thrust linear at 25 try slightly higher overall PIDs
Dynamic Idle should be calculated Connect a battery with storage voltage and run the motors with 1055 and record ur RPM value DYNAMIC IDLE : (Rpm X 100 ) divided by 0.8 For black bird motors its arround 24
First off it's the RPM of the prop. Not the motor. RPM is calculated at the tip of the prop. Which is why a shorter prop requires a higher value. 4.3 simplifies this calculation and 25 to 30 is where you want to be for a 5" quad, imo.
@@Mqzfpv you mean this video ua-cam.com/video/CAMcRbQh3xM/v-deo.html ? The calculation does get more specific than I recommend, BUT as mentioned in his video it's based off prop tip and pitch even. Since the props I was referring to in my video have higher than average pitch and based on their tip length that's how I've gotten to the values I suggested. A normal pitch is roughly 3.5 so the steeper you go the more dynamic idle you need.
Your videos have been a great help, I was stuck there for a minute but have worked out my issues and after all the presets I'd true and my tuning efforts and got nowhere, changed esc's to 48khz now I've got a perfect flying quad again with plenty of room to move in my pids. Cheers 😎
Thank you for this. I have switched my quads to this tune, and they all fly fantastic. I started with 1.4 but ended up on 1.5-1.6 on all of my builds.
I think this is a very useful video. When I put the drone together again after a not quite happy crash, I'll definitely try some of it!
This is a great video , so easy to follow . I'm tuning up my HD Apex 6s first . THANK YOU! Keep the FPV Squadron flying tight!
Thanks so much for this awesome simplistic explanation of 4.3 I'm literally doing the changes now and I'm going out today to test it.
Awesome, looking forward to hearing what you think.
@@MurdersFPV It worked great....Definitely smoother flights. The only difference was I had to take my "master multiplier" down to 1.1
@@toddmcclure757va2 that's great bro, glad to hear. We're you getting some trilling from the motors?
@@MurdersFPV yep definitely!
Great video man, I appreciate you making it. I watch a lot of your rips and can appreciate a good tune. I am still learning myself, getting better but still am trying to learn the filtering side of the blackbox and what filters I need and don't need and in what ranges the filtering needs to take place. Thanks for your participation in the community bro. Keep up the awesome work!
If you're ever down to get on discord I'm always willing to discuss and share knowledge.
LOL i am tuning whoops 4,3.5 and 5 in all on rc2 and love it dude great vid
Just did my 3 inch cinewhoop and it's awesome.
Thanks for not over complicating things. Great videos.
Trying my best to make it straight forward and simple. You can always do a lot more than this to get even better performance but these suggestions should make a noticeable difference over stock.
keep up this kind of knowledge video sir, respect your effort to the community to have a better flight experience..tq sir
Thank you so much. I really love this community, I feel very fortunate to have so much support it honestly feels good to try and give back.
Great explanation sir
thank you so much for this information,i was just about to flash my kwad and it was very useful..Keep up!
youl have to do more videos like this . good
I followed exactly the same steps
Im using the reaper v2 mini stack. I had mad crazy desyncs on 4.2/4.3. This totally made my quad flyable again
Just put 4.3 on a couple of my quads. Great vid. Thanks for the info.
appreciate the info, ive only ever changed fwd/reverse on the escs, trying to learn to tune, thanks! 👍
The amount you can do is super deep. I started by looking up as much information as possible and just trial and error. As long as you have a safe place to test and you're always prepared to disarm if something isn't right, you can really learn a lot.
Good video. at 10:44 I think you should try having the yaw lowpass on. Since yaw is such a slow responding axis anyways, the latency isn't really much of a problem. Its basically a free filter, thats why its default is so low. it cost you nothing and will benefit you in edge cases.
I've tried with and without on multiple drones and really didn't notice any difference at all. I'll give it another shot and zip around for a few days and pay closer attention. I'm a huge fan of yours btw. You're the reason I switched to no hypersmooth or stabilization.
@@MurdersFPV haha thanks, no stabilization is the way!
And yeah, that's the thing, you really can't tell you have it on them you might as well have it on. Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. My experience is similar to yours where most quads it's not a huge diff
Nice talk and a lot of useful instructions :)
Solid insight. Thanks dude 🤙🏻
hi, can you please elaborate more about the difference in tuning for the cinewhoop you mentioned at at the beginning of this video? I would like to know which settings you recommend on it. THANKS!
I'm actually planning on doing a video that explains it well.
@@MurdersFPV fantastic stuff! Can’t wait for it. Thanks
I tried 4.3 for the first time today. I am using a Rotor Riot HD1 frame with T-motor F60s. The kwad couldnt even take off, when applied some throttle it wobbled around like crazy. It turns out that my Master Multiplier doesn´t work for my build moving it forward, in fact, I had to move it backwards to about 0.7 and then it started flying. Its weird but well, it is what it is.
That is super weird. I have the HD1 Vanny Style with the same motors. What's the FC? I was able to push mine to 1.7 using the Hobbywing stack.
@@MurdersFPV Mamba F405 dji MK2 , gopro session mounted. the curious thing is that it was flying Ok with BF 4.2, as soon as I flash to 4.3 it didn’t want to take off. Reducing the master was the only way to make it fly.
@@djrialdo so I know that PIDs were raised from 4.2 to 4.3 and the filter changes improved a lot from 4.2 to 4.3 but it can be a bit taxing as far as CPU usage for some F4 processors. Most issues I've seen with 4.3 have come from F4 processors. What's your CPU usage at the bottom of the screen while your plugged in and in Betaflight?
@@MurdersFPV 42%
@@djrialdo that's really not bad at all. Wondering if you bump your PIDs too high and you plug in a battery, remove the props, and check the option in the motors tab to allow it to arm and see how high CPU usage goes up when you throttle up a little on your remote.
Great info just updated to 4.3 on my 5” armattan running all defaults and rpm filtering ...fly great but getting hot motors should I drop the master multiplier ... pwm is 24hz 😊
You could drop it but I'd honestly give 48khz a shot. There's been a recent Chris Rosser video that proves higher pwm is far more efficient without any noticeable loss of torque and thrust. Also, always check mechanicals of your build. Is there anything you can do to reduce vibrations. It really helps a lot.
@@MurdersFPV thanks for that I will try 48pwm just seemed strange I’ve got 4.3RC2 all defaults and quad new build machaniclly sound no vibration Armanttan .. hot motors
Thanks for all your help 48hz 😊👍
Like your vids. If I switch to PWM 48k, need/should retune PIDs?
I would say yes only because I've been able to get higher PID gains on 48khz over 24khz. You don't have to but I would because I'm OCD and love tuning. 😛
@@MurdersFPV I tried 48khz awhile ago on an older tune but I think my esc didn't like it. Too much oscillation at zero throttle I couldn't get rid of but I also don't have a 32 bit esc. I haven't tried 48khz on 4.3..yet. Keep up the good work!
hey i crashed my drone into a tree and it was left there in the rain for about 6 days, i replaced everything except for the FC and ive been getting extremly hot motors at hover ever since i rescured it; i didnt touch the pids or filters before the crash and my motors never got hot. is there a high chance that my gryo is just damaged? the drone is mechanically fine.
It's super possible that there was a lot of random water damage and it's tough to tell what the extent is. Are you able to make some logs? If so you can see if the gyro is super noisy.
@@MurdersFPV im not the best at analysing black box data but there is alot of high frequency squigly lines (at hover) in all axes. i lock tighted every screw on the frame, and after the crash i replaced literally everything except for the frame and FC. Its also worth mentioning that the motors do this behaviour arbitrarily, there is no pattern what so ever; i.e. it would actually fly alright (medium to hot motors) but then after i come back and land to swap lipos it suddenly decides it wants to make a whailing noise and the motors get so hot that u can smell the coils burning it is anything but a pleasant smell.
@@MurdersFPV i would also get COMPLETLY RANDOM fly aways but luckily i was able to save the drone
@@haks_123 😳 yeah that's not good. There isn't any rust built up right? I'd definitely give all the components a really good look over and even clean them with some isopropyl alcohol
@@MurdersFPV not that i see any, no. Well all 4 motors, and the esc was replaced so it cant have any rust but from a quick glance of the fc i dont see any rust. honestly i might aswell replace the fc at this point i cant put my poor motors under any more stress.
I still have hot motors on the back even lowering master / PD balance dunno why .
It could be a build issue. If your motors are hot on default settings, you may need to look over the build and make sure nothing could be causing excessive noise/vibrations on the gyro. That includes loose screws, dangling wires, and antennas. Proper filtering is necessary for the motors to stay cool so the next step would be to take a proper Black Box log and see how the noise looks on the quad. If you would like some help reviewing your Black Box logs you can message me on Instagram @murdersfpv. I'd be happy to help.
What does the motor trilling sound like? I just bumped my PWM frequency from 24 to 48... motors never got hot but my motors did sound different than they did on 24khz. The sound was a higher pitch but I can't tell if its unusual because all my other quads are on 48, this is the first one I've built where I've flown it on anything less than 48khz.
The sound wasn't necessarily concerning... it was just different.
It's a fluttering sound. Generally high pitch. If your are trying the TPA and TPA breakpoint of .75 and 1750 try .65 and 1650. 48khz normally makes motors sound smoother.
Awesome video! Question on BLHeli32. Why rampup power to 30% and motor timing to 23? Thanks in advance!
These settings have long since been the standard for best efficiency for typical 5" quads backed by guys like Chris Rosser or UAV Tech. Recently Chris Rosser did a video with updated information for some of the latest ESCs. Ones capable if doing 128khz PWM. He suggested that if using that setting, a ramp up power of up to 30-40% is ideal and a timing of 16-23 is good.
I've just updated my two 5" quads to 4.3 and I'm learning how to filter and tune 'em right. I'm still on the fence about updating my cinewhoops. Are you going to make any videos about 2.5 and 3" whoops on 4.3? I would be really intererested to see how much they change between firmwares. Thanks for the tips!
So I'm still getting really in depth with cinewhoops and my experience so far has been both good and bad. I have one whoop that has an F7 FC with a BLHeli_32 ESC and it flies great on 4.3. I have another whoop that is an AIO FC/ESC with an F4 processor and that completely sucked on 4.3. I ended up going to an older version of 4.2 in order to make it fly well. All my 5" quads are F7s and they have no issues. I've had a lot more people tell me their experience was mediocre with F4 processors and 4.3
@@MurdersFPV hmmm maybe I will have trouble with my 5"'s because both of them are f4, I haven't properly tested them yet. One of my cinewhoops is f7 with blheli s and I have a 3" with f4 and blheli 32. So maybe it's worth to update the f7 one and see if there's any improvment! Thanks and I've subbed to see your findings on whoops and 4.3!
@@dariordz688 I will for sure be doing more whoop content soon.
Id like to know if making it lesser filter would make the quad fly better? Maybe like 1.0 to 1.3 . Nothing too extreme.
Yes, as long as you aren't cutting off the filter and allowing unwanted noise into the gyro. You'd want to take a look at Blackbox logs to determine that. Another way to tell would be reduced flight performance and hot motors. You can try 1.3 but be sure to do safe test flights before going too crazy. Be ready to disarm at all times.
@@MurdersFPV alright man. Imma try lowering that dterm filter to 1.3. The gyro filter is already off.
Hey now. What do you think of the Apex HD. I am a 1 quad man, and I want to finally upgrade my trusty old Martien 2 That I have been using for years. I always use a GoPro. Looking for a recommendation.
Thanks. I’ll try your tips on my Martien.
I'm a huge fan of the ApexHD. It's my favorite Apex personally.
Hi,
Thank you very much and a great job for a very informative video.
Do you have any recommendations on 2”-4” quads?
Cheers 🥂
For 4" it's not too much different than 5". The smaller you go the more you will likely end up bumping the master multiplier.
@@MurdersFPV Good to know and thank you for getting back to me so quickly.
Looking forward to your future videos, maybe you can make one for 2”-3” quads looking at the various filter’s settings like you did in this one - just hoping. 🤞🤞
What’s your presets on betaflight 4.3, can I have a try with it,sir?
I go over all the current settings I'm using right now in this video but I would be super cautious using my exact PIDs because this is my drones specific tune. I'd recommend take the master multiplier up a tad and make sure nothing crazy is going on before you push it too high.
Will try that tomorrow! Do you fly 7’ too?
Only 5" and cinewhoops for now. I've been wanting to get into long range. I think maybe later this year.
“ACTUAL” 😉
😛
Hello, I have tried to install 4.3 on my Nazgul5 v2 Analog F4 (4s) and when I saw CPU load on value of 55% I go back to 4.2 and this value back to 7%. What do you think about it? Should I worry about it or not because I sow 56% on your quad F7
You're safe if you don't go over 75%
Also make sre you're running Dshot 300
4.3 and 4.2 measure CPU load differently, hence the difference.
4.3 calculates the data differently than 4.2, so up to 75% CPU load is acceptable. Tuning notes for 4.3 explain this in detail.
I've been racking my brain trying to get my Iflight Titan into DFU mode. Different cables, different drivers, the driver fixer etc...
the one thing I think might work is unsoldering everything from the FC.....but idk if that would work...you seem to be the pro at this stuff...does that make any sense?
I've made some changes that you said but need to get this thing flashed somehow. Thank you for the video.
I wouldn't waste the time unsoldering. I've had that issue with multiple iFlight FC to the point that's I've had a few replaced and eventually stopped using them. Not sure if youre running an iFlight FC but the only time I get one to work when it started doing that was when I used the driver fixer on it over and over till eventually it worked.
@@MurdersFPV Yeah Iflight it is...I think I've done the driver fixer so many times on many different computers....idk I think the iflight might be it.
When is the final release? Does anyone know?
I know release candidate 3 should be coming out soon. If that's not the full release I'm willing to bet that it will be not much longer after that one. There hasn't been a set in stone date yet but it seems like it's just about ready.
New sub here I just built an apex 4" was thinking about switching over to 4.3 but am still kinda nervous I hear there is some kind of failsafe bug so I've been trying to hold off for now I to am also passionate about tuning and have gotten pretty good at it just a trying to get better at the little things
Being hesitant is perfectly understandable. I'm really looking forward to the full release because a lot more people are going to be willing to try it and I know they will love it.
I tried this with a new glide build with a radix 2. It shot up at warp speed and before i reacted to disarm it was already realy high. Anyways it came slamming down into some concrete. Its maiden crash.
Sorry to hear that, bro. That sounds as though there may have been other factors in play. Nothing I recommended would cause that behavior unless you had a bad gyro and in that case, pure defaults would have resulted in the same crash.
@@MurdersFPV Indeed there were problems. Turns out i made a mistake in how i stacked my electronics. Some plastic spacers i installed under the esc was rattling making a large amount noise on the yaw. So, it went crazy with no filter on the yaw. Anyways i have corrected the problem and it fly's pretty good on those settings. Thanks man!
I agree that 48khz has plenty of torque. Its when you get up into the 80s that you start to notice real torque loss
Yeah 96khz is a no go.
I maxed my master gain slider at 2 with filter set to 1.9. Propwash be gone. :D
Damn. That's hot. Feels great not having any propwash.
"various Communities on Facebook"... Sigh.
Still don't get how in FPV which is somewhat technical, with lot's of opensource, sharing-is-caring, Github, tinkering etc. so to say a technical enthusiasts hobby, and yet so much communication is done through Facebook. I fail to get it.
Have you tried 128khz? Its kind of cool the sound it makes but you do lose torque
Haven't had an ESC that does that high yet. Sounds like it would be great for a small drone.
I would like to pay you to do this on my quad murders?
Message me on Instagram @murdersfpv. I'd be glad to help you out.
I’ll have to start a Instagram page and hit you up.Thanks man
i would remove Thrust linear.. Its not needed at all in 4.3
I disagree based on months of testing. With PWM set to 24khz I'd agree. 48khz still benefits from it.
@@MurdersFPV There is no low throttle instability anymore thrust linear was a bandaid for 4.2. Devs dont recommend it either
@@Mqzfpv if that were true, why did they give it a handy spot on the PID tuning tab when it was previously only doable via the CLI 🤔
@@MurdersFPV Because so people can use it.
@@Mqzfpv as recently as last month(last updated) their Gethub Wiki for 4.3 tuning suggests using it while using 48khz.
48k is better on 6s. Not so much 4s. That’s worth noting
Thanks for the reminder and yeah I'd agree.
Thust linear does not do what it used to do in 4.2, and is not needed.
I know it doesn't. But I don't tune my drone solely off what people say is needed and not needed. If I flew on 24khz full time I would agree with you. I use 48khz+ on 2207 motors and thrust linearization makes a noticeable difference in my eyes. My process is about testing things several times and determining what I feel flies better. It may not be right for you but I have several flight videos which highlight my style and my drones flight performance that tend to prove my process is sound. I don't fly with stabilization because I choose to have the full FOV and I am not a fan of stabilization warping the footage. I do a lot of zero throttle inverted maneuvers and thrust linearization prevent wobbles in those situations. It's a personal perspective and a choice. One I implore you to test yourself rather than simply taking the word of someone who said it is not needed. Even if they are someone who may have plenty of proven knowledge on the subject. Everything mentioned in this video are things to try and see if you experience better flight performance. If not, fine. Don't use it. The idea is to get people to step out of their comfort zone and try different things. Here is an excert from the Betaflight 4.3 wiki:
Zero throttle instability
go back to 24kHZ PWM if you've set the ESC to 48kHz
enable dynamic idle at 3500- 4000 RPM
try thrust linear at 25
try slightly higher overall PIDs
Dynamic Idle should be calculated
Connect a battery with storage voltage and run the motors with 1055 and record ur RPM value
DYNAMIC IDLE :
(Rpm X 100 ) divided by 0.8
For black bird motors its arround 24
First off it's the RPM of the prop. Not the motor. RPM is calculated at the tip of the prop. Which is why a shorter prop requires a higher value. 4.3 simplifies this calculation and 25 to 30 is where you want to be for a 5" quad, imo.
This is not true at all... This is how it worked. go read the 4.3 tuning notes. or watch rossers video about dyn idle
@@Mqzfpv you mean this video
ua-cam.com/video/CAMcRbQh3xM/v-deo.html ? The calculation does get more specific than I recommend, BUT as mentioned in his video it's based off prop tip and pitch even. Since the props I was referring to in my video have higher than average pitch and based on their tip length that's how I've gotten to the values I suggested. A normal pitch is roughly 3.5 so the steeper you go the more dynamic idle you need.
Take ~20% off of idle speed = dynamic idle. Remember that wind affects the props. Different pitches, sizes spin at different speeds
@@hi_desert_rat your dshot idle is inactive when dyn idle is active so no.