I have not had any issues with the Espar D2 and Alpine amp installed and running under the passenger seat. It is important to ensure there is good ventilation to seat base area, so I suggest replacing the seat base panel cover with a vented panel. See this product on eBay: ebay.us/QEArVj
Well ... all I can say is that logic (with modest vent) is saying don’t combine a heater with an amp. Imagine running all night the heater ? With time slowly that heat will do its magic on what ever electronics is near and they are not that far from each other; but if you’re happy then is your Van not mine.
@@nicholj2002 I can certainly understand your reservations, and you should absolutely do your van however you feel most comfortable. I'm just sharing my experience, and so far its worked out great. The Espar manual says any heat sensitive materials need to be 2 inches away, which they are in my case. What really gets hot on the Espar is the exhaust/line, not the heater body or the air around it. Good luck!
@@DadsVan-- Per The technical description and installation instructions Arrangement of the heater Parts of the structure and other components near the heater must be protected from excessive heat exposure and possible fuel or oil contamination. The combustion heater shall not constitute a risk of fire, even in the case of overheating. This requirement shall be deemed to be met if the installation ensures an adequate distance to all parts and suitable ventilation, by the use of fire resistant materials or by the use of heat shields. The heater must not be installed in the passenger compartment of class M2 and M3 vehicles**. However, a heater in a hermetically sealed enclosure which also complies with the aforementioned conditions may be used. The nameplate, or a duplicate, must be positioned so that it can be easily read when the heater is installed in the vehicle. Every reasonable precaution should be taken in positioning the heater to minimize the risk of injury and damage to personal property. **[Category M2: having a maximum mass not exceeding 5 tonnes (11,000 lb) Category M3: having a maximum mass exceeding 5 tonnes.]
You still need to route head unit outputs to the amp to create a signal for the subwoofer. I don’t believe the head unit has a dedicated subwoofer output
From head unit to left an right speakers (which is what I believe you are referring to) I just relied on the existing factory cabling. That is why I used the adapter kit at the head unit, so I could bring the wiring from amp output back to head unit, and then from there the factory connections work
For my rear left / right speakers and rear subwoofer I used 2 conductor cable for each. This is because those were not part of the factory wiring, and I added them, thus I had to run my own +\- to each of those rear speakers.
@@DadsVan Got it so one white cable did both front right and left and then the other one was for your rears. A total of 3 white cables, front and rear. The 3rd cable was for the RCA correct? Where in the head unit does that go to?
Yeah sorry about that. I set that up by creating a new feed off the starter battery fuse distribution box to a bus bar and 60A fuse under the driver's seat, then fed the wires over to passenger seat. I show that in a different video: ua-cam.com/video/tEcoH0UdLq8/v-deo.html starting at 25 min 47s. Hope this helps and good luck!
This music is lit
Thanks! Not bad for free music! It’s my fav from the videos I’ve made so far.
Will the heat generated by the Ebersparche D2 heater?
I have not had any issues with the Espar D2 and Alpine amp installed and running under the passenger seat. It is important to ensure there is good ventilation to seat base area, so I suggest replacing the seat base panel cover with a vented panel. See this product on eBay: ebay.us/QEArVj
Well ... all I can say is that logic (with modest vent) is saying don’t combine a heater with an amp. Imagine running all night the heater ? With time slowly that heat will do its magic on what ever electronics is near and they are not that far from each other; but if you’re happy then is your Van not mine.
@@nicholj2002 I can certainly understand your reservations, and you should absolutely do your van however you feel most comfortable. I'm just sharing my experience, and so far its worked out great. The Espar manual says any heat sensitive materials need to be 2 inches away, which they are in my case. What really gets hot on the Espar is the exhaust/line, not the heater body or the air around it. Good luck!
@@DadsVan-- Per The technical description and installation instructions
Arrangement of the heater
Parts of the structure and other components near the heater must be protected from excessive heat exposure and possible fuel or oil contamination. The combustion heater shall not constitute a risk of fire, even in the case of overheating. This requirement shall be deemed to be met if the installation ensures an adequate distance to all parts and suitable ventilation, by the use of fire resistant materials or by the use of heat shields. The heater must not be installed in the passenger compartment of class M2 and M3 vehicles**. However, a heater in a hermetically sealed enclosure which also complies with the aforementioned conditions may be used. The nameplate, or a duplicate, must be positioned so that it can be easily read when the heater is installed in the vehicle. Every reasonable precaution should be taken in positioning the heater to minimize the risk of injury and damage to personal property.
**[Category M2: having a maximum mass not exceeding 5 tonnes (11,000 lb) Category M3: having a maximum mass exceeding 5 tonnes.]
If I only add subwoofer how the process work? Please
You still need to route head unit outputs to the amp to create a signal for the subwoofer. I don’t believe the head unit has a dedicated subwoofer output
@@DadsVan Can I use rear output from head unit to subwoofer?
Yes you can. See options in the manual here support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_S-A60M+S-A32F+S-A55V.pdf
Can you show us how you connected the speakers to the channels in the amp? From your video the white cable has 4 wires but each channel has a + and -.
I used a four conductor wire so I only had to run one cable instead of two back to front head unit for left/right speakers.
@@DadsVan Did you then do two cables for each +/- of each speaker?
From head unit to left an right speakers (which is what I believe you are referring to) I just relied on the existing factory cabling. That is why I used the adapter kit at the head unit, so I could bring the wiring from amp output back to head unit, and then from there the factory connections work
For my rear left / right speakers and rear subwoofer I used 2 conductor cable for each. This is because those were not part of the factory wiring, and I added them, thus I had to run my own +\- to each of those rear speakers.
@@DadsVan Got it so one white cable did both front right and left and then the other one was for your rears. A total of 3 white cables, front and rear. The 3rd cable was for the RCA correct? Where in the head unit does that go to?
DUDE TURN YOUR MUSIC DOWN
Thanks for the feedback!
You never showed us where the accessory power to the amp is found. 🤦♂️
Yeah sorry about that. I set that up by creating a new feed off the starter battery fuse distribution box to a bus bar and 60A fuse under the driver's seat, then fed the wires over to passenger seat. I show that in a different video: ua-cam.com/video/tEcoH0UdLq8/v-deo.html starting at 25 min 47s. Hope this helps and good luck!