@@MilanSmore I live in an apartment so I don't clean as often as I would want to, but when I do I also use the hand-pumped garden sprayer thingy! I just put my work stand on the side walk in front of the building, it's large enough and no one minds :o
This is really a 15 min bike clean, but still, glad I started doing this last summer - boy howdy was my drivetrain in terrible shape, so after a marathon cleaning session, then it was only "5 for Francis, 15 for me" cleanings that kept my bike in much better shape. :)
Keep a kit ready by the door, squeezy bottle with the detergent rather than bucket and then a hose or hand pump bottle thing will save some more time. You can get it to five minutes if you keep it prepped and practice.
Use a different brush on your drive train than on the frame. I use a toothbrush on the drive train, the firmest I can find. Never brush oil grime into your frame. He showed a rag with oil on it. You are putting that on the frame you use the same brush. Truth be told this video is nice and gets me pumped. Who knew I would love cleaning my bike.
A pump up foam sprayer is an excellent bike cleaning tool. I use an IK Foam 2 but have also used a foam cannon on a small electric pressure washer. There is nothing wrong with using a pressure washer to wash your bike but you have to understand the tool. If it is held at a distance that’s safe enough for you to spray it into your hand without hurting, you can use it on the bicycle at that same distance or greater distance. It’s when you go close and get into the high-pressure zone that it becomes dangerous for your bicycle. Plus if you choose the right nozzle, such as one with a wide fan spray, it is much safer than a narrow, pinpoint or rotary turbo nozzle. By using a foam sprayer to soap the bike and a pressure washer at a safe distance with a wide nozzle to rinse the bike, you can greatly reduce the amount of water necessary to wash your bike. Never use a cotton towel or paper towel to dry your bike as it will scratch or damage the finish especially if it is a matte finish. Always use a bicycle detergent or car shampoo as anything else can dull or damage the paint. When drying, use a microfiber cloth to get the bulk of the water off the easy to reach areas. Then follow up with a small blower. I use an 18v Ryobi but I started with a small electric blower. If you have put a ceramic coating or polymer coating on the paint finish, be sure and use the right type of soap as you can damage these coatings by messing with the pH. Traditional automotive wax is even more fragile but as it’s SO much less expensive, it is more of a sacrificial coating than either the poly or ceramic coatings. Soft paint brushes are excellent to reach into those hard to reach areas like cleaning the bottom bracket in the area between the front derailer and chain rings. If you’re going to use an aerosol degreaser that contains any petroleum, distillates or any other type of oil to include citrus based degreasers on any part of the bike, take the wheels off and remove the brake pads (disc or rim) before spraying it. Keep those parts far away from the spray and overspray. Always use pH neutral cleaners or you can damage the finish on anodized parts.
Top tip. After washing/degreasing the drive train. Get a kettle with boiling water and while pedalling backwards, pour the boiling water onto you chain. Washes more oily stuff out and helps it dry more quickly.
I wash my bike after almost every ride. Even when it is dry and sunny outside. And I live in Rome so most rides are in dry weather. So most times I wash it quite fast similar to how you did here. And i also use something like the MucOff Bike Protection on a microfiber cloth after drying off the bike every now and then. Makes it so much easier to wash the bike.
Cheers Francis and Jimmy, great tips. I ride on the road, and some very light gravel. I prefer Aldi baby wipes. No hose necessary. Just wipe down every couple of rides. I've been using drip wax lube, which also cleans with baby wipes. Again my riding is road and in the dry, mostly.
I use a paintbrush for the drive train and keep the other brush for everything else so as not to put grease onto the matt paint next time. If you don’t have a hose then a water bottle filled a couple of times rinses all soap off too. I’d love to hear why i should buy bike specific degreaser too (the price is mental) because I might’ve bought 5L of degreaser from screwfix which cost a fraction and works perfectly!
You can use any degreaser for a bicycle chain, diesel, paraffin etc - they are just made of riveted metal plates so whatever removes the grease and grime is fine. Motorbike chains have rubber seals which hold packed grease in the chain links so need a bit more thought on degreasing as you don't want to destroy the seals.
The muc off pink stuff works better than fairy liquid but it is crazy expensive for a marginal improvement (muc off you can get away without any brushing, fairy liquid works better if you use warm water and brush it)
I looked around on forums for this same question, and the general consensus was that any degreaser should work fine as long as you keep it away from bearings and rinse it off really well. Many people suggested a product called Simple Green, that's what I used with good results (it helped loosen the grime but wasn't as effective as a pure degreaser spray)
Wonder Wipes. Amazingly good job at de-flossing your cassette, and final step in cleaning the chain. Also, methylated spirit for cleaning disc rotors - cheap from your local hardware shop.
I upgraded to the muc off pink stuff - dunno what they have in it but the degreaser works better than fairy liquid and don't really need to brush anything, just hose it down after a couple of minutes. Even if you are using fairy liquid one of those squeezey bottles with a mix of fairy liquid and warm water is more efficient than buckets. Park tool chain cleaning tool to clean the drive train with some of the muc off stuff in it (diluted seems to work fine even though they say use it undiluted for chain). Hose the bike down afterwards and dry and lube the important bits, WD40 a few things, SRAM butter on stanchions and shock and do some bouncing to get that butter into the seals. Back to doing this every ride until the sun is back in about 9 months, yay mud and rain! 😢
Ditch the muc off drivetrain cleaner, wash, and degreaser. They have a high saline content and will lead to rust and galvanic corrosion. I used to work for a shop with a rental fleet and we used all the muc off products. I was always shocked by how quickly the parts corroded compared to my bikes with the same environment and relative maintenance. Made sense when I heard about the saline content of the products I was using in the shop. Auto wash is cheaper, more effective, and won’t corrode anything. On your drivetrain parts a light foaming degreaser like simple green is great. Just avoid getting it in your bearings
I prefer a micro fibre cloth as my weapon of choice for the initial wetting and soaping. Instead of a brush. No matter how soft your brush is, I can't imagine it's very good over time for your paint finish. But yeah, definitely a bathroom stiff bristle brush for the cassette and chainrings. And yes, moo up the excess water and dry off the bike before taking it indoors to dry out fully. And then buff (with or without some wax polish) with another clean micro fiber (to remove any watermarks).
Thanks! It seems so simple now, but before I watched this video, I was worried about doing something wrong and hurting my bike. Now I feel I can clean my bike with confidence. I will watch your other video too. Just cleaned one of my bikes after watching this in the way you suggested, and it does look like a much better job than I have been doing. I need to clean it more because my bikes are my transport since I have no car. I sold the car and got a bike. Never regretted it. 🙂
Fairy & a little bit of morgan blue....... Ta Dah! You have a clean bike then a GT 85 into a microfibre cloth AFTER the bike has air dried. Lube chain. Good to go. 👍. Nice one gents we're on the same lines ! 👏
Yes i remember riding from one citie to another 5 days a week.. And with heavy rain my cdhain got "cleaned" in the mornig ride, and already was rusting when i went back in the evening.. So i took some oil in the beginning but that wasn't enough in the Dutch winter climat, so i had to use grease wich became a real mess to clean in the weekends.. High pressure water was great for cleaning but bad for the bearings and also the chain..
If you have access to a hose, it's much easier to rinse the bike with it. Than dampen the brush, apply soap and scrub, reapeat. When you finished, rinse with the hose. Greasy drivetrain. Don't use that much of oil. "Half a drop" per roller is much more than enought. Spin back, wipe dry the outside. Hower if you wax your chain you get rid of all of the mess.
I clean my bike just like shown here in this video. As commented already I use a paintbrush for the hard to reach parts. And a watering can to rinse off
To get more water off quickly after rinsing, I bounce the bike on the tyres a few times to shake water off, then spin the wheels and cranks around to flick water off (don't stand behind the bike or you'll get wet). That leaves less water to dry off with the towel.
Now this is where the biggest benefit of a waxed drivetrain comes in. You don’t end up with an oily dirty rag and brush every time you wash your bike. You can just wash the entire bike with the same sponge. Also you don’t end up with black and dirty water in your bucket. Saves loads of time and hassle.
Actually you want to degrease/clean your drivetrain FIRST (with a different brush), not last. Your frame will also thank you if you use a gentler microfiber glove instead of a brush. And if you are cleaning a MTB/gravel bike, a second firmer brush for tires might be a good idea to clean all the mud off and not contaminate the rubber with your drivetrain brush.
This is a "nice to have" suggestion, but if you have one of those rechargeable keyboard duster things, they work brilliantly for helping get water out of important, but tight finicky areas like the rear derailleur and the gear cassettes.
Waiting for the cheap v expensive carbon wheel comparison with the Ryet wheels you unboxed a few months back. Thinking of getting them as a beater winter wheel.
Tip for this method: When rinsing the soaped up bike, instead of pouring your bucket over the bike, use a water bottle and spray the water on. A little more tedious but uses a lot less water so you don't have to fill up your bucket:)
Loved your video! Basic and sensible approach!!! This gal loves a clean bike. Time to clean my new 2024 Creo 2. Never had disc brakes before so I was wondering are covers worth buying for added protection when cleaning if using aerosol spray degreasers or should I stop using them on this bike and all my bikes? 😊
Get both wheels the hell away from chucking all that soapy water on them.get the bike onto a stand and remove both wheels. Remove your rear cassette and put a chain keeper on. That way you can clean the cassette much better, clean the wheels using minimal water and avoid any degreaser, water, getting into the hubs. Seen so many hubs knackered cos of excess water getting into them.
I'm thinking of using a commercial car hand sprayer for the greasy sprocket. I'm thinking the soap + pressure should do the job. Anything I'm missing? Thanks
Why was the GT85 lubricant shown in the part about de-greasing your bike, between the WD40 and Muc-Off de-greasers? I assume you don't use a lubricant for de-greasing, or am I missing something? Also, make sure to use car brake cleaner without additives. Some specific ones have additives for brake conditioning that don't affect car brakes after the first stop (because of the much higher forces involved), but wreak havoc with bike brakes. The simple additive-free ones work fine though.
thing is, some most if not a lot of people can't have 1. a place out side because small buildings and no garden garage patio or any outside area that allow the mess and dirt... 2. soap water sometimes or most times anoy those gardener out there ... gardens can get ruined... and well thats one thing of the down sides of gravel bikes... but then I use some new products to clean on 'dry' especially on the drive train chain cassette cranks ... and try some wet or little wet stuff to the frame... is there a chance you can reach or tell us about some alternative (expensive or not) products to hack or short cut the cleaning ... saludos.
Рік тому
Before I started using chainwax I used to floss my cassette while the bike is on the bikestand.
Not a fan of waiting for the chain to fully dry before oiling the chain. I recommend wiping down the chain with an absorbent cloth and then immediately oiling. The oil helps displace the water inside the links of the chain and prevents corrosion as the water evaporates.
I dry running it through a cloth and spin the drive train a bit, but it's not gonna get properly dry in winter - assumed lube would displace the water if there is still some moisture but is that the case for all chain lubes?
And don’t forget. When using GT85 etc, hold a rag behind what you are spraying, to avoid overspray onto your discs, pads and brake blocks. Right, Mr Cade?
One thing I always never know what to do: should we spin the chain round after applying lube so it coats the cassette too? Recently did a clean and found I didn't have any lube left. When I was waiting for it to be delivered, the cassette developed some slight rust (it was under cover but there was some rain so maybe some moisture in the air) I've always thought the chain lube is to coat the chain/cassette to stop rust aswell as lubricate.
Off topic, but your decking planks are on upside-down. The ribbed side is not for grip. It is supposed to be on the bottom to improve airflow and prevent moisture buildup where the decking is in contact with the bearers.
I was amazed that there was a possibility for cleaning my bike with no tools. I was wondering how you clean you bike with no hose or bucket. Didn't get very far as in the first few seconds we hear a whole list of tools, so no different than my current process!
To dry the bike use a pet blower, they cost around £50 on eBay, a heated powerful jet of air blasts the bike dry, you’ll thank me for this tip if you get one 🙂👍
My drivetrain used to be the indicator I used to determine when to thoroughly clean my bike. Since switching to wax, however, I find I can get away with less cleaning. I just re-wax the chain every few hundred miles and I can do a thirty-minute cleaning every month or so.
My eyes and ears couldn't find a human rhythm, but good tips! I've been lucky enough to have a friend get deep into chain waxing (and not mind adding mine to his process) , but that makes me a little more apprehensive to put the elbow grease into drive train scrubbing while on the bike.... But removing the chain risks thin edged quick links... Gaah
I use a toothbrush to deep clean my chain and cassette. It works well but tastes bloody horrible afterwards.
Used toothpaste brush that you won't be putting back in your mouth. 😂
@jamesmckenzie3532 Ah, that's where I've been going wrong! I'm glad you pointed it out, thanks
@@rogersimmons8788 I hope that was said tongue in cheek! Degreaser tastes terrible.
@jamesmckenzie3532 Of course it was tongue in cheek. It's called humour where I'm from.
@@rogersimmons8788 never know when someone is serious or not these days with all the "challenges".
One tip: use a hand-pumped garden sprayer. It outputs just the right amount of water and is very convenient to use.
True, not everyone has a garden though
@@MilanSmore I live in an apartment so I don't clean as often as I would want to, but when I do I also use the hand-pumped garden sprayer thingy! I just put my work stand on the side walk in front of the building, it's large enough and no one minds :o
Plus you can use hot water
Really good for muddy bikes. Spray to wet, then brush, then spray the muddy water off without having to refill 3 buckets.
Also good - the "MudDaddy" we use for cleaning the dog after a muddy walk 😂
This is really a 15 min bike clean, but still, glad I started doing this last summer - boy howdy was my drivetrain in terrible shape, so after a marathon cleaning session, then it was only "5 for Francis, 15 for me" cleanings that kept my bike in much better shape. :)
Keep a kit ready by the door, squeezy bottle with the detergent rather than bucket and then a hose or hand pump bottle thing will save some more time. You can get it to five minutes if you keep it prepped and practice.
UK winters you have to do this every ride so you work out a system quick 😂
Big respect for mentioning car products vs "bike specific" products and the savings that brings 👍
General bike maintenance videos like this one would be great!! New to cycling and need to learn all the secrets🧐👍🏻
There’s just something so satisfying about giving your bike a good wash. Time consuming but well worth it. Great video Francis snd Jimmy 🤗 🇨🇦
5:10 is a good trick that actually works .
Use a different brush on your drive train than on the frame. I use a toothbrush on the drive train, the firmest I can find. Never brush oil grime into your frame. He showed a rag with oil on it. You are putting that on the frame you use the same brush. Truth be told this video is nice and gets me pumped. Who knew I would love cleaning my bike.
My preferred solution to a dirty bike is to keep riding. As long as you're on the bike, you can't see the dirt.
Best advice
Floss your cassette. Now that's a new one for me. Glad to see you had some help in the beginning. Take care, Al
I usually apply toothpaste to the cassette beforehand, and then wash it with mouthwash afterwards.
A pump up foam sprayer is an excellent bike cleaning tool. I use an IK Foam 2 but have also used a foam cannon on a small electric pressure washer.
There is nothing wrong with using a pressure washer to wash your bike but you have to understand the tool. If it is held at a distance that’s safe enough for you to spray it into your hand without hurting, you can use it on the bicycle at that same distance or greater distance. It’s when you go close and get into the high-pressure zone that it becomes dangerous for your bicycle. Plus if you choose the right nozzle, such as one with a wide fan spray, it is much safer than a narrow, pinpoint or rotary turbo nozzle.
By using a foam sprayer to soap the bike and a pressure washer at a safe distance with a wide nozzle to rinse the bike, you can greatly reduce the amount of water necessary to wash your bike.
Never use a cotton towel or paper towel to dry your bike as it will scratch or damage the finish especially if it is a matte finish.
Always use a bicycle detergent or car shampoo as anything else can dull or damage the paint.
When drying, use a microfiber cloth to get the bulk of the water off the easy to reach areas. Then follow up with a small blower. I use an 18v Ryobi but I started with a small electric blower.
If you have put a ceramic coating or polymer coating on the paint finish, be sure and use the right type of soap as you can damage these coatings by messing with the pH. Traditional automotive wax is even more fragile but as it’s SO much less expensive, it is more of a sacrificial coating than either the poly or ceramic coatings.
Soft paint brushes are excellent to reach into those hard to reach areas like cleaning the bottom bracket in the area between the front derailer and chain rings.
If you’re going to use an aerosol degreaser that contains any petroleum, distillates or any other type of oil to include citrus based degreasers on any part of the bike, take the wheels off and remove the brake pads (disc or rim) before spraying it. Keep those parts far away from the spray and overspray.
Always use pH neutral cleaners or you can damage the finish on anodized parts.
I use a paint brush to clean the brake dust out of my calipers, and baby wipes to keep my bike looking new.
Top tip. After washing/degreasing the drive train. Get a kettle with boiling water and while pedalling backwards, pour the boiling water onto you chain. Washes more oily stuff out and helps it dry more quickly.
"Where are you taking the kettle, honey?" "Oh, just outside for a moment."
Did this, burnt my feet
@@snowdrop629😮😂 ouch! Sorry to hear that!
@@theunfinishedarticle😅😅
I wash my bike after almost every ride.
Even when it is dry and sunny outside.
And I live in Rome so most rides are in dry weather.
So most times I wash it quite fast similar to how you did here.
And i also use something like the MucOff Bike Protection on a microfiber cloth after drying off the bike every now and then.
Makes it so much easier to wash the bike.
Bloody grateful for this. It always seems like a mission to clean a bike but this is a great reminder ot can be quick and simple. Cheers lads
Cheers Francis and Jimmy, great tips. I ride on the road, and some very light gravel. I prefer Aldi baby wipes. No hose necessary. Just wipe down every couple of rides. I've been using drip wax lube, which also cleans with baby wipes. Again my riding is road and in the dry, mostly.
You forgot two things: Van Halen CD in the boom box, and ice cold beer post cleaning. Thanks guys!
Hell yeah brother
I use a paintbrush for the drive train and keep the other brush for everything else so as not to put grease onto the matt paint next time. If you don’t have a hose then a water bottle filled a couple of times rinses all soap off too.
I’d love to hear why i should buy bike specific degreaser too (the price is mental) because I might’ve bought 5L of degreaser from screwfix which cost a fraction and works perfectly!
You can use any degreaser for a bicycle chain, diesel, paraffin etc - they are just made of riveted metal plates so whatever removes the grease and grime is fine.
Motorbike chains have rubber seals which hold packed grease in the chain links so need a bit more thought on degreasing as you don't want to destroy the seals.
The muc off pink stuff works better than fairy liquid but it is crazy expensive for a marginal improvement (muc off you can get away without any brushing, fairy liquid works better if you use warm water and brush it)
Why should you buy bike specific degreaser?
Because marketing says you should(!)
I looked around on forums for this same question, and the general consensus was that any degreaser should work fine as long as you keep it away from bearings and rinse it off really well. Many people suggested a product called Simple Green, that's what I used with good results (it helped loosen the grime but wasn't as effective as a pure degreaser spray)
A shoe brush and car shampoo with wax helped with a gardon hose...used the combo for 15 years, no complaints!
Wonder Wipes. Amazingly good job at de-flossing your cassette, and final step in cleaning the chain. Also, methylated spirit for cleaning disc rotors - cheap from your local hardware shop.
I upgraded to the muc off pink stuff - dunno what they have in it but the degreaser works better than fairy liquid and don't really need to brush anything, just hose it down after a couple of minutes. Even if you are using fairy liquid one of those squeezey bottles with a mix of fairy liquid and warm water is more efficient than buckets.
Park tool chain cleaning tool to clean the drive train with some of the muc off stuff in it (diluted seems to work fine even though they say use it undiluted for chain).
Hose the bike down afterwards and dry and lube the important bits, WD40 a few things, SRAM butter on stanchions and shock and do some bouncing to get that butter into the seals.
Back to doing this every ride until the sun is back in about 9 months, yay mud and rain! 😢
Ditch the muc off drivetrain cleaner, wash, and degreaser. They have a high saline content and will lead to rust and galvanic corrosion. I used to work for a shop with a rental fleet and we used all the muc off products. I was always shocked by how quickly the parts corroded compared to my bikes with the same environment and relative maintenance. Made sense when I heard about the saline content of the products I was using in the shop. Auto wash is cheaper, more effective, and won’t corrode anything. On your drivetrain parts a light foaming degreaser like simple green is great. Just avoid getting it in your bearings
Brushes will always tend to leave micro scratches. I've always stuck to microfibre wash mitts for the frame and brushes for the drivetrain.
I prefer a micro fibre cloth as my weapon of choice for the initial wetting and soaping. Instead of a brush. No matter how soft your brush is, I can't imagine it's very good over time for your paint finish. But yeah, definitely a bathroom stiff bristle brush for the cassette and chainrings. And yes, moo up the excess water and dry off the bike before taking it indoors to dry out fully. And then buff (with or without some wax polish) with another clean micro fiber (to remove any watermarks).
Thanks! It seems so simple now, but before I watched this video, I was worried about doing something wrong and hurting my bike. Now I feel I can clean my bike with confidence. I will watch your other video too.
Just cleaned one of my bikes after watching this in the way you suggested, and it does look like a much better job than I have been doing. I need to clean it more because my bikes are my transport since I have no car. I sold the car and got a bike. Never regretted it. 🙂
Fairy & a little bit of morgan blue....... Ta Dah! You have a clean bike then a GT 85 into a microfibre cloth AFTER the bike has air dried. Lube chain. Good to go. 👍. Nice one gents we're on the same lines ! 👏
Thin shoe lace or cut a thin cloth to floss the cassette. You can do that without removing the wheel, just shift the gears.
The shoe lace is a good call 👍. I've been using offcuts of cardboard, which is great until it soaks up the muck and gets wet and soggy.
Yes i remember riding from one citie to another 5 days a week.. And with heavy rain my cdhain got "cleaned" in the mornig ride, and already was rusting when i went back in the evening.. So i took some oil in the beginning but that wasn't enough in the Dutch winter climat, so i had to use grease wich became a real mess to clean in the weekends.. High pressure water was great for cleaning but bad for the bearings and also the chain..
Clear 3M paint protector and ceramic coating work wonders to keep the paint looking fresh and speed up cleaning.
If you have access to a hose, it's much easier to rinse the bike with it. Than dampen the brush, apply soap and scrub, reapeat. When you finished, rinse with the hose.
Greasy drivetrain. Don't use that much of oil. "Half a drop" per roller is much more than enought. Spin back, wipe dry the outside. Hower if you wax your chain you get rid of all of the mess.
I clean my bike just like shown here in this video. As commented already I use a paintbrush for the hard to reach parts. And a watering can to rinse off
To get more water off quickly after rinsing, I bounce the bike on the tyres a few times to shake water off, then spin the wheels and cranks around to flick water off (don't stand behind the bike or you'll get wet). That leaves less water to dry off with the towel.
Short and fun videos. Great stuff.
Well last week I used nature's jetwash, a heavy downpour, when the sun finally came out dried it all off bit of GT85 job done.
The lube advice is brilliant. So many riders don't appreciate this advice and how much money it can save you.
That's my kinda washing! Love it!
Now this is where the biggest benefit of a waxed drivetrain comes in. You don’t end up with an oily dirty rag and brush every time you wash your bike. You can just wash the entire bike with the same sponge. Also you don’t end up with black and dirty water in your bucket. Saves loads of time and hassle.
I use Shimano as my group set but there’s something about that straight line in that SRAM chain 😍
Actually you want to degrease/clean your drivetrain FIRST (with a different brush), not last. Your frame will also thank you if you use a gentler microfiber glove instead of a brush. And if you are cleaning a MTB/gravel bike, a second firmer brush for tires might be a good idea to clean all the mud off and not contaminate the rubber with your drivetrain brush.
If you dont have access to a hose a watering can for plants costs under $20 and helps alot with rinsing the bike
This is a "nice to have" suggestion, but if you have one of those rechargeable keyboard duster things, they work brilliantly for helping get water out of important, but tight finicky areas like the rear derailleur and the gear cassettes.
5:01 Good look at the Ryet wheel. When is the review for these dropping?
Waiting for the cheap v expensive carbon wheel comparison with the Ryet wheels you unboxed a few months back. Thinking of getting them as a beater winter wheel.
Tip for this method: When rinsing the soaped up bike, instead of pouring your bucket over the bike, use a water bottle and spray the water on. A little more tedious but uses a lot less water so you don't have to fill up your bucket:)
Should you avoid getting soapy water on the disc brake rotors? Or is that not a problem?
I always clean my rotors with dish soap when I replace the pads. Just make sure they rinsed off thoroughly after
Love a bike cleaning video!
Ever better. 4.48 mins is my record! That’s boss.
Loved your video! Basic and sensible approach!!! This gal loves a clean bike. Time to clean my new 2024 Creo 2. Never had disc brakes before so I was wondering are covers worth buying for added protection when cleaning if using aerosol spray degreasers or should I stop using them on this bike and all my bikes? 😊
Like your vids guys 👍. Get with waxing your chains it will halve or even less the bike cleaning time. Microfibre cloths are brilliant.
Spin your wheels after rinsing. To drive out any remaining water from around both hubs.
Get both wheels the hell away from chucking all that soapy water on them.get the bike onto a stand and remove both wheels. Remove your rear cassette and put a chain keeper on. That way you can clean the cassette much better, clean the wheels using minimal water and avoid any degreaser, water, getting into the hubs. Seen so many hubs knackered cos of excess water getting into them.
Hairy string to floss your cassette/free wheel is a godsend.
How often do (not should!) you clean your bike? In the spring. Maybe again before a big ride.
I'm thinking of using a commercial car hand sprayer for the greasy sprocket. I'm thinking the soap + pressure should do the job. Anything I'm missing? Thanks
The reason I started waxing my chain is because I got tired of cleaning my bathroom after washing my bike in the shower.
Why was the GT85 lubricant shown in the part about de-greasing your bike, between the WD40 and Muc-Off de-greasers? I assume you don't use a lubricant for de-greasing, or am I missing something?
Also, make sure to use car brake cleaner without additives. Some specific ones have additives for brake conditioning that don't affect car brakes after the first stop (because of the much higher forces involved), but wreak havoc with bike brakes. The simple additive-free ones work fine though.
thing is, some most if not a lot of people can't have 1. a place out side because small buildings and no garden garage patio or any outside area that allow the mess and dirt... 2. soap water sometimes or most times anoy those gardener out there ... gardens can get ruined... and well thats one thing of the down sides of gravel bikes... but then I use some new products to clean on 'dry' especially on the drive train chain cassette cranks ... and try some wet or little wet stuff to the frame... is there a chance you can reach or tell us about some alternative (expensive or not) products to hack or short cut the cleaning ... saludos.
Before I started using chainwax I used to floss my cassette while the bike is on the bikestand.
With the onset of storm season and dirty winter riding, when's the deeper clean video on its way?
Still waiting for the longer video
Not a fan of waiting for the chain to fully dry before oiling the chain. I recommend wiping down the chain with an absorbent cloth and then immediately oiling. The oil helps displace the water inside the links of the chain and prevents corrosion as the water evaporates.
I dry running it through a cloth and spin the drive train a bit, but it's not gonna get properly dry in winter - assumed lube would displace the water if there is still some moisture but is that the case for all chain lubes?
@@ByronWWW no, not all lubes, only the oil based lubricant. The wax based lubricant will displace water less if not at all.
@@TC-hl1ws ceramic is what I normally use
@@ByronWWW That is wax based rather than oil based so best to have the chain dried before applying.
Can we get a video on recommended stuff to clean with
Thank you sir!
The car cleaning peeps (ie me) will be screaming at the screen, "DON'T USE BRUSHES!". Microfibre cloths don't create swirl marks on your paint..
And don’t forget. When using GT85 etc, hold a rag behind what you are spraying, to avoid overspray onto your discs, pads and brake blocks. Right, Mr Cade?
nah, brakes need lubing too if you want to be fast on the downhills
@@lechprotean yeah, saves on pad and rotor wear too.
Remove the pads and clean the rotors (brake cleaner) and calipers (alcohol) afterwards.
How to clean the brush afterwards?
Not sure, is it okay to just throw dish soap in the Environment? Espacily when theres a lot of oil desolved within it ?
One thing I always never know what to do: should we spin the chain round after applying lube so it coats the cassette too?
Recently did a clean and found I didn't have any lube left. When I was waiting for it to be delivered, the cassette developed some slight rust (it was under cover but there was some rain so maybe some moisture in the air)
I've always thought the chain lube is to coat the chain/cassette to stop rust aswell as lubricate.
No, lube is just for the chain. Let the cassette dry on sun after cleaning and store your bike in place with lesser humidity.
At what stage do you apply drivetrain degreaser? Before or after cleaning ?
How about steel bikes? And hotwaxed chains?
I use 1000 grit wet&dry to make sure my frame is nice and shiny......it's titanium :)
Washing up liquid is a good way to dull your paintwork. Honestly, just spend the extra on some muc off or whatever.
Nice dog 🐕 great vid
Hi! Are there any cons in cleaning the bike after every ride? 😅 thanks!
Pressure washers can damage derailleur battery seals after a while .
what happens to the washing up liquid that hits your disc brakes? doesnt that make them squeak?
PODCAST TOPIC - Shimano Ultegra/ Dura ace recall
You can floss the cassette with the wheel in.
Use Squit lubricant, it doesnt pick up or spray as much dirt.
I don’t have a work stand, but I do attach my bike to the car bike rack to wash
Will the salts knacker you paint. I've known people who've washed their cars with washing up liquid and over time it ruins the paint.
Guys, do I also clean the disk brake with the solution of water and dish soap or only with a clean dry rag?
The bike specific wd40 degreaser can be used to clean rotors .....
Sash brush's and citrus degreaser in an old bidon 👍
Do a video how to clean in flat/apartment aka inside
Are you still planning a waxed chain review video?
Off topic, but your decking planks are on upside-down. The ribbed side is not for grip. It is supposed to be on the bottom to improve airflow and prevent moisture buildup where the decking is in contact with the bearers.
How often do you all clean the drive train????
me:rides through car wash to get bike and myself washed at the same time :D
Just make sure your washing up liquid is eco friendly / biodegradable.
Maybe update with a bike clean for a waxed chain - drive train.
I was amazed that there was a possibility for cleaning my bike with no tools. I was wondering how you clean you bike with no hose or bucket. Didn't get very far as in the first few seconds we hear a whole list of tools, so no different than my current process!
You don't get squeaky discs when getting soap water in them???
To dry the bike use a pet blower, they cost around £50 on eBay, a heated powerful jet of air blasts the bike dry, you’ll thank me for this tip if you get one 🙂👍
What's that clear stuff called again? 🤔
What's even easier is a jug of rinseless wash like ONR. Fill bucket up and use a microfiber mit to clean everything. Don't even need a hose to rinse.
My drivetrain used to be the indicator I used to determine when to thoroughly clean my bike.
Since switching to wax, however, I find I can get away with less cleaning. I just re-wax the chain every few hundred miles and I can do a thirty-minute cleaning every month or so.
Any tips how to clean bike if I live in flat, and not in the house? Use self-service car wash ? :)
Bathtub.
Light some candles, pour some champagne, enjoy the time with your beloved one.
Costst 40$ to send your gf to girls night , though.
Bathtub crew here as well. I also put on some 80's music mix to add to the fun!
Self-service car wash isn't a bad idea, but be careful of the water pressure.
My eyes and ears couldn't find a human rhythm, but good tips! I've been lucky enough to have a friend get deep into chain waxing (and not mind adding mine to his process) , but that makes me a little more apprehensive to put the elbow grease into drive train scrubbing while on the bike.... But removing the chain risks thin edged quick links... Gaah
Use car shampoo, normal dish soap damages the paint.
I keep all the old tea towels and bath towels for bike cleaning.
I thought the trick is to just buy a new one whenever the old one has gotten dirty..
Ah well, learned something today 😁