I've got a kawasaki 650 sc crank that is out of phase by 20-30 degrees. I rebuilt everything on the engine just to find the problem was the crankshaft the whole time. I've made some tools and used a friends 150 ton shop press and I have the crank apart. Been researching how to get the phase correct and I'm gonna try this! Going to weld the pins in as I go to make sure it does not get out of phase again! Well done and thanks for the info!
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Take care when welding 1. (obviously) not to damage the crank but also 2. use a compatible filler rod (not sure what that is) 3. not to put too much heat into the pin or web 4. try to weld directly across from each weld to avoid pulling the crank out of true.
Very cool video, I really appreciate how you found the correct parts for the rebuild. Yamaha bearing, seadoo bearing, and best of all cr500 connecting rods 👍🍻
Thanks ! It was a challenge to find some of the parts. The connecting rods actually have the part numbers on them, so that part was pretty easy, haha... The inner bearings also have numbers, but the two outer ones were tricky and it took me almost a week of research before I found out that Yamaha uses that large bearing on a TON of their stuff. I'm very confident now that I can rebuild all of my cranks, so that's a pretty big deal. It cost me $580 for all the parts and a new crank is $1540. plus shipping. If you include the press and the materials to make tools it was about $2160 haha.
Yeah, for sure ! I don't remember the first video that I saw of his, but it might have been one of his bike videos as I used to be into biking, big time. He is for sure a genius and extremely creative. He's also also got some odd side story about hedgehogs or his wife making cupcakes 😂
When I saw your video said the same: Great!! But I tried two times with a 15 TN press and nothing happened 😅, is a 1991 , have another 377 in a paratrike that I made in pandemics, I will try again next days, is not my press, so I can't try all the time
@@Detodounpoco-xb2zo Wow... that's on there good if it takes more than 15T ... I'm guessing you would notice if it was welded ... If it is not, try to heat the web area. If you just have a propane torch it make take 5-10 minutes. I can't remember but I don't thin any of mine took more than 5, maybe 10 tons.
Thanks for the compliment ! The tool is in the public domain now as I showed the idea in a video, so it is not patentable, but it would be awesome if a manufacturer took my idea and turned this into a puller set (you need different sizes for different bearings) (and also different lengths) I don't know where you get them, or what they are called, but there is a tool that is kinda similar to this. I have only ever seen Alan Milyard use it. Basically 3 arms with rounded hooks that hook into the outer race by putting then in at a 45º to the shaft and then rocking them parallel to the shaft. You then use the main part of the puller to lock the hooks parallel and pull the bearing off.
Thanks Adrian ! I was quite nervous at first because a new crankshaft is about $1500.00 Canadian, and I was afraid that I would mess it up, but it went really well.
This is great! I'm going to be attempting this with a 250 single so it should be substantially easier. I'm starting to think I might be able to do this correctly.
You got this ! Take lots of measurements before you get started and remember that you can always start over if you need to. Take your time and you'll get it.
So I can spend $500 on FB market place and a few hundred dollars in parts to rebuild a snowmobile crank that I normally have to pay a machine shop $1200 to have it done.
@@МотодокторБашкирии Вы можете перевести, используя функцию субтитров в нижней части экрана. Нажмите на «CC», и он покажет английские субтитры. Теперь нажмите кнопку шестеренки, субтитры/CC, а затем автоматический перевод. Вы можете выбрать свой язык.
Joel, I have not tried this (yet) but was planning on trying my hand on some crank rebuilds and doing the phasing making a set of spacers so that I can set one crank web with the center pin on the bed of a mill with a spacer under one big end pin and put a spacer under the big end pin of the "loose" crank web so that it will sit at 180 degrees phase relative to the one already on the center pin/bearing assembly. Afte rpressing together the phase can be checked by flipping over. Not sure if that made sense kind of tough to describe by words.
Yeah, I'm having a real hard time picturing what you are talking about, haha. There are lots of possible ways to do this, that's for sure, but explaining with just words is tricky. I have had a few ideas that may be what you are talking about, but I can't tell, haha.
@@darreng2639 Cool... There's lots of Gallants in Miramichi, where I'm from. I somehow ended up in PEI 2 of the last 3 times I visited the east coast. I've been to Lethbridge , but I can't remember when or why, haha. I do all of my jet skiing in that direction at Pine Coulee reservoir. I do all of my jet skiing in that direction, at Pine Coulee Reservoir.
Good question. I’m afraid that’s not a straightforward “yes” or “no”. Many Kawasaki cranks have pins that are part of the web. In this case, you need to push the crank apart and inspect / measure to know if it is damaged or out of spec. If it isn’t, you can order a rod kit and push it back together. If it is, you have two choices. Get a new web(s), or have a machine shop machine the proper bore so you can press a pin in. This requires very accurate positioning of the hole as well as very accurate tolerances for the size. Mark from Erickson Machine and Performance offers this service. I’m not sure what it costs. If you are lucky, you have a crank like the one in this video, and the pin pushes out of the webs.
Hey, It's possible. I'm sure that shipping cost would be considerable. Do you have the crank out of the engine? One major concern with any crank is if it uses separate rod pins, or pins that are part of the crank webs. If it only needs bearings, then this is not a problem. However, if it needs rods and big end pins, sometimes the rod pins are part of the crank web, and this means an additional huge expense, if you can even get them. A lot of the Kawasaki cranks I have, have this problem.
Something similar that has 3 separate arms, hooks in more like a fish hook and locks into a center ... yoke ?? I believe I mention this in the video (or maybe another video) about seeing it on Allan Milliard's channel. I've never been able to find one for sale or even find one online, but yes.
Probably. Just pick out the best pieces ! A few of the triple cranks I have do not have replaceable pins, meaning, the web and the big end pin are all one piece. Regardless of this, if you have enough of them, you should be able to find enough good ones.
Really good video dude! Question for you, did you ever exceed 10 tones on your press? I have a 10 ton, but wonder if it would be enough to attempt this kind of thing at home. I've been on the look out for a used lathe that I could hopefully get set up some day.. You made it look very satisfying to get it as close to perfect as you could within a reasonable amount of time. Fantastic to watch, and learn.
Thanks Dustin ! I never went over 10 tons, but there's a little more to it than that. I wouldn't discourage you from doing it, but, as I'm sure you are aware, with a 10 ton press, when you get to 5 tons you start to get a lot of "spring" where you pump and nothing moves, then it goes "bang" and moves more than you wanted. You just need to keep that in mind for every component you push on. Most people will say that 20 tons is minimum, but like I said, if you just keep i mind that your press won't be what determines how far things move, you can come up with other ways to ensure you get the desired outcome. You're also welcome to come and use mine any time.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam A 10 ton will 100% "spring" we used to have a metal grate across the front of the press as pieces would fly out of it, it also made it VERY hard to get things to press on to the correct location, temperature had to be really consistent and that helped. We then reinforced the press and it was much better but all the issues when away when we upgrade to a new press.
@@MrSector9 Right on... I remember the press we had at Ray's ... it had an upgraded ram and it was scary. I remember trying to push bearings out of hubs. Nothing, nothing, nothing .... BANG !!! stuff flying everywhere. We had some sort of shield too, but I forget what it was. it's funny, I just recorded some bits for a video talking about the tools I used, and talked about how an "overkill" press would make it much easier due to less spring / less stored kinetic energy. A 40 ton press at 10 tons has very little flex, so you can push a pin in a few thousandths at a time instead of nothing and then 1/4 inch.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam спасибо ,у меня прес на 20 тон но рама пресса самоделка вот и выгибает.пробовал разобрать коленвал снегохода Поларис и не смог .
Hi Joel,good video,but I don't espeak english and its difficult for me to get the reference of the bearigs I have benn trying for two hours and I can't find them Can you help me. Thanks
Hello. I have posted all of the information about the crank that I know in the description. I will paste it below as well. Bearings were all purchased from the company WSM but I put additional information so you can see what other machines these bearings are used on. Center bearings. WSM 010-206-03. SeaDoo 580 / 650 1989-1996 Dimensions 35 x 72 x 17 PTO bearing. WSM 010-207-0. Polaris 650 - 785 1993-2000 Dimensions 35 x 80 x 21 MAG bearing. WSM 010-204. Yamaha 650 - 760 / 1100 1990-2020 Dimensions. 32 x 72 x 30
Are you going to weld any of your cranks and do you think it matters? The yamaha vx cruiser I believe it is has a 155 pump but uses kawasaki impellers so the kawasaki driveshaft will plug in. Might be a good way to go on this build. I'm curious how the exhaust will turn out.
I've got a kawasaki 650 sc crank that is out of phase by 20-30 degrees. I rebuilt everything on the engine just to find the problem was the crankshaft the whole time. I've made some tools and used a friends 150 ton shop press and I have the crank apart. Been researching how to get the phase correct and I'm gonna try this! Going to weld the pins in as I go to make sure it does not get out of phase again! Well done and thanks for the info!
Good luck. Let me know how it goes. Take care when welding 1. (obviously) not to damage the crank but also 2. use a compatible filler rod (not sure what that is) 3. not to put too much heat into the pin or web 4. try to weld directly across from each weld to avoid pulling the crank out of true.
Very cool video, I really appreciate how you found the correct parts for the rebuild. Yamaha bearing, seadoo bearing, and best of all cr500 connecting rods 👍🍻
Thanks ! It was a challenge to find some of the parts. The connecting rods actually have the part numbers on them, so that part was pretty easy, haha... The inner bearings also have numbers, but the two outer ones were tricky and it took me almost a week of research before I found out that Yamaha uses that large bearing on a TON of their stuff.
I'm very confident now that I can rebuild all of my cranks, so that's a pretty big deal. It cost me $580 for all the parts and a new crank is $1540. plus shipping. If you include the press and the materials to make tools it was about $2160 haha.
Dude, I'm so glad you mentioned watching allen millyard videos.. that guy is a genius!
Yeah, for sure ! I don't remember the first video that I saw of his, but it might have been one of his bike videos as I used to be into biking, big time. He is for sure a genius and extremely creative. He's also also got some odd side story about hedgehogs or his wife making cupcakes 😂
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam hahaha strange little critters those hedgehogs lmfao.. can't forget about the tea.. ah, it's juuuust perfect
@@nickcapozzoli 😂👍
Good job
Thanks !
On mielenkiintoista 😁👍👍👍👍
Thanks.
You are a genius man, saved me , I have to make this job on a safari 377
Cool !! What year Safari !?
When I saw your video said the same: Great!! But I tried two times with a 15 TN press and nothing happened 😅, is a 1991 , have another 377 in a paratrike that I made in pandemics, I will try again next days, is not my press, so I can't try all the time
@@Detodounpoco-xb2zo Wow... that's on there good if it takes more than 15T ... I'm guessing you would notice if it was welded ... If it is not, try to heat the web area. If you just have a propane torch it make take 5-10 minutes. I can't remember but I don't thin any of mine took more than 5, maybe 10 tons.
Thanks Joel 🤗
Thanks for your comment. I appreciate it.
Man! I love how professional you make your tools! That bearing tool is brilliant! You should patent those tools!
Thanks for the compliment ! The tool is in the public domain now as I showed the idea in a video, so it is not patentable, but it would be awesome if a manufacturer took my idea and turned this into a puller set (you need different sizes for different bearings) (and also different lengths)
I don't know where you get them, or what they are called, but there is a tool that is kinda similar to this. I have only ever seen Alan Milyard use it. Basically 3 arms with rounded hooks that hook into the outer race by putting then in at a 45º to the shaft and then rocking them parallel to the shaft. You then use the main part of the puller to lock the hooks parallel and pull the bearing off.
Where did you find those holy bearings?
Information about the bearings is in the description of the video. I believe they were all from WSM and the part numbers are posted.
Gracias por compartir tu conocimiento y tomerte el tiempo de hacer el vídeo
Gracias por tu comentario ! Me alegro que hayas disfrutado.
Hi mate, another wicked vid, you definitely know your stuff, great to see all of your work on camera, very interesting, cheers mate
Thanks Adrian ! I was quite nervous at first because a new crankshaft is about $1500.00 Canadian, and I was afraid that I would mess it up, but it went really well.
great job lad practice makes perfect ul get there
Thanks. I was expecting to have more troubles than I did, but it went pretty great !
Понятно без перевода,респект.
Спасибо
Very cool.
Thanks !!
Awesome, nice work joel 👏 👍
Thanks !
This is great! I'm going to be attempting this with a 250 single so it should be substantially easier. I'm starting to think I might be able to do this correctly.
You got this ! Take lots of measurements before you get started and remember that you can always start over if you need to. Take your time and you'll get it.
So I can spend $500 on FB market place and a few hundred dollars in parts to rebuild a snowmobile crank that I normally have to pay a machine shop $1200 to have it done.
Yeah, if you are willing to put the time and effort in.
Oops ... I responded with my wrong account. It takes a fair amount of effort, but you can do it if you are willing to put in the work.
That’s impressive
Thanks Trevor. I'm quite pleased.
Спасибо что показал
Спасибо за ваш комментарий !
Вам нужно этот ролик выпустить с переводом на русский язык и просмотры сразу пойдут вверх.
@@МотодокторБашкирии Вы можете перевести, используя функцию субтитров в нижней части экрана.
Нажмите на «CC», и он покажет английские субтитры. Теперь нажмите кнопку шестеренки, субтитры/CC, а затем автоматический перевод. Вы можете выбрать свой язык.
hahhaha, stop - hammer time!
A joke that only old people get... haha.
Joel, I have not tried this (yet) but was planning on trying my hand on some crank rebuilds and doing the phasing making a set of spacers so that I can set one crank web with the center pin on the bed of a mill with a spacer under one big end pin and put a spacer under the big end pin of the "loose" crank web so that it will sit at 180 degrees phase relative to the one already on the center pin/bearing assembly. Afte rpressing together the phase can be checked by flipping over. Not sure if that made sense kind of tough to describe by words.
Yeah, I'm having a real hard time picturing what you are talking about, haha. There are lots of possible ways to do this, that's for sure, but explaining with just words is tricky.
I have had a few ideas that may be what you are talking about, but I can't tell, haha.
Wow great job. Where you located? I have relatives that are Arsenault
Thanks ! I live in Calgary Alberta, but I grew up on the east coast of Canada where there are lots of Arseneaults 👍
@Joel Arseneault cool I live in lethbridge but I'm from p.e.i
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam my last name is Gallant
@@darreng2639 Cool... There's lots of Gallants in Miramichi, where I'm from. I somehow ended up in PEI 2 of the last 3 times I visited the east coast.
I've been to Lethbridge , but I can't remember when or why, haha. I do all of my jet skiing in that direction at Pine Coulee reservoir. I do all of my jet skiing in that direction, at Pine Coulee Reservoir.
Is it necessary to replace the webs on a Kawasaki crank? Great video as always
Good question. I’m afraid that’s not a straightforward “yes” or “no”.
Many Kawasaki cranks have pins that are part of the web. In this case, you need to push the crank apart and inspect / measure to know if it is damaged or out of spec.
If it isn’t, you can order a rod kit and push it back together.
If it is, you have two choices. Get a new web(s), or have a machine shop machine the proper bore so you can press a pin in. This requires very accurate positioning of the hole as well as very accurate tolerances for the size. Mark from Erickson Machine and Performance offers this service. I’m not sure what it costs.
If you are lucky, you have a crank like the one in this video, and the pin pushes out of the webs.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam thanks for the response, only one way too find out, I'll start pressing
@@donalhoward2962 Yeah... you can look and see if it is a press out pin or not, but you can't see if the pin is good or bad.
I have a 750 indie Polaris Storm where the crankshaft maybe bad as a possible to send it out to you to have be rebuilt
Hey, It's possible. I'm sure that shipping cost would be considerable. Do you have the crank out of the engine?
One major concern with any crank is if it uses separate rod pins, or pins that are part of the crank webs. If it only needs bearings, then this is not a problem. However, if it needs rods and big end pins, sometimes the rod pins are part of the crank web, and this means an additional huge expense, if you can even get them. A lot of the Kawasaki cranks I have, have this problem.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam I'll get back with you on that
I’m interested to see how you do this 👍
It actually went pretty smoothly, all things considered.
Jetski brothers make some awesome videos. I watched their ls swapped ski and I was hooked very smart guys 👍
Don't they sell bearing puller similar to what you made? Nice Video thanks.
Something similar that has 3 separate arms, hooks in more like a fish hook and locks into a center ... yoke ?? I believe I mention this in the video (or maybe another video) about seeing it on Allan Milliard's channel. I've never been able to find one for sale or even find one online, but yes.
Wonder if i could take a bunch of my 1100 kawi cranks apart and then piece a few back together. I do have a lot lol
Probably. Just pick out the best pieces ! A few of the triple cranks I have do not have replaceable pins, meaning, the web and the big end pin are all one piece. Regardless of this, if you have enough of them, you should be able to find enough good ones.
there is a absolute crap ton of custom tools i know that are used for rebuilding cranks, looks like ya got a few
Yeah... I think with every crank you can make or buy a new special tool.
Really good video dude! Question for you, did you ever exceed 10 tones on your press? I have a 10 ton, but wonder if it would be enough to attempt this kind of thing at home. I've been on the look out for a used lathe that I could hopefully get set up some day.. You made it look very satisfying to get it as close to perfect as you could within a reasonable amount of time. Fantastic to watch, and learn.
Thanks Dustin !
I never went over 10 tons, but there's a little more to it than that. I wouldn't discourage you from doing it, but, as I'm sure you are aware, with a 10 ton press, when you get to 5 tons you start to get a lot of "spring" where you pump and nothing moves, then it goes "bang" and moves more than you wanted. You just need to keep that in mind for every component you push on.
Most people will say that 20 tons is minimum, but like I said, if you just keep i mind that your press won't be what determines how far things move, you can come up with other ways to ensure you get the desired outcome. You're also welcome to come and use mine any time.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam A 10 ton will 100% "spring" we used to have a metal grate across the front of the press as pieces would fly out of it, it also made it VERY hard to get things to press on to the correct location, temperature had to be really consistent and that helped. We then reinforced the press and it was much better but all the issues when away when we upgrade to a new press.
@@MrSector9 Right on... I remember the press we had at Ray's ... it had an upgraded ram and it was scary. I remember trying to push bearings out of hubs. Nothing, nothing, nothing .... BANG !!! stuff flying everywhere. We had some sort of shield too, but I forget what it was.
it's funny, I just recorded some bits for a video talking about the tools I used, and talked about how an "overkill" press would make it much easier due to less spring / less stored kinetic energy. A 40 ton press at 10 tons has very little flex, so you can push a pin in a few thousandths at a time instead of nothing and then 1/4 inch.
Отличная работа
Спасибо
Great video, put styrofoam and a pillow in the bottom of the cylinder for the bits that may fall.
Yeah... I thought of that, but I didn't want to damage all my good styrofoam 😂 Not even kidding. Maybe some old shirts or something.
Sweet video, now I know how to do mine when it fails lol. What’s your plan with the 997?
As of now, the end plan is to put it in an X2 .
Сколько тон давишь при распресовке крайних щек?
Для восстановления шатунов нужен 20-тонный пресс. Меньший будет сгибаться слишком много.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam спасибо ,у меня прес на 20 тон но рама пресса самоделка вот и выгибает.пробовал разобрать коленвал снегохода Поларис и не смог .
@@МотодокторБашкирии Да, жесткая рама - это самое главное. Вам нужно усилие от 6 до 10 тонн, но 10-тонный пресс слишком сильно сгибается.
Hi Joel,good video,but I don't espeak english and its difficult for me to get the reference of the bearigs
I have benn trying for two hours and I can't find them
Can you help me. Thanks
Hello. I have posted all of the information about the crank that I know in the description. I will paste it below as well. Bearings were all purchased from the company WSM but I put additional information so you can see what other machines these bearings are used on.
Center bearings. WSM 010-206-03. SeaDoo 580 / 650 1989-1996
Dimensions 35 x 72 x 17
PTO bearing. WSM 010-207-0. Polaris 650 - 785 1993-2000
Dimensions 35 x 80 x 21
MAG bearing. WSM 010-204. Yamaha 650 - 760 / 1100 1990-2020
Dimensions. 32 x 72 x 30
Are you going to weld any of your cranks and do you think it matters? The yamaha vx cruiser I believe it is has a 155 pump but uses kawasaki impellers so the kawasaki driveshaft will plug in. Might be a good way to go on this build. I'm curious how the exhaust will turn out.
Are you aware of Allen Millyard ? Check out his videos on crankshaft rebuilding.
Allan is an absolute legend ! I think I mentioned him in this video... One of his videos is where I got the idea to use my lathe to clock the crank.
Wonder how this is doing
Waiting for wrist pins and a few other bits.
Gloves for that lube. Interesting vid cutie!
Привет ,можно ли твой ролик с ремонтом коленвала выложить на русском языке ? .ссылку на твой канал оставим .
У меня нет времени, но я объяснил, как можно изменить субтитры CC, в другом комментарии.
@@JoelArseneaultUA-cam понял , спасибо
Привет
Привет
those orange seals look like ski doo snowmobile center seals
They sure do... I tried to find some for a while... I eventually decided that they were ok, but that is what they appear to be.