I’m rebuilding a 1944 12” CK Monarch. Cracking open the headstock gearbox will be the last task as I’m working my way up in complexity as I go, completely cleaning and repainting everything, new seals, wipes, and bearings. Glad to see a video on completely disassembling the headstock, it’ll help immensely when I get to that point. I like the idea of using a paint marker and numbering the parts and marking the orientation. Thanks for making this series.
It's good to hear someone is finding it useful. Your lathe should be pretty similar to mine. I am interested in seeing how the pull rod that activates the clutch is setup. I think mine may have been modified because it doesn't seem to work like it should.
diyVT I think those little springs that are about the size of a something you’d find in a retractable pen are key to clutch operation. I pulled mine apart, paid big bucks for a new lining and some rivets from Monarch, and replaced the massive bearing on the pulley. I’m currently working on making new centers for both clutch actuation handles. Both were extremely sloppy. Yes, two lathes is not excessive. My other lathe is a cheap import that is dwarfed by the Monarch. I bought the Monarch as a project. Trying to get set up to do some of my own videos.
The clutchwork followed after replacing the 1200rpm original motor with a 1800 rpm motor + vfd. I have the vfd set up with a switch to give 1200. 1800, or 2400 rpm, or effectively 1x, 1.5x, or 2x the rpm on the gearbox plate. If I were to do it again I’d have put in a 5hp motor on a 10hp vfd.
Do yourself a favor and use a carbide scriber and not a marker or paint marker...all my marks washed off in cleaning and with just the intermediate shaft, I installed and removed it 6 times just to get the gear keeper collars back in the right orientation
I had the videos to refer back to, and I was careful how I layed out the parts. If I was able to get it done in a shorter amount of time between taking it apart and putting it back together it would have helped.
The pin is a pin with cotter pins on both sides. I found out the hard way, if it is not lined up right when you knock it out, you will get it jammed and then ruin it when you finally do get it out. I took my headstock apart for a broken shift fork.
@@diyVT LOL...what set screws...when I tore into my headstock last week, none of the set screws were in any of the retainer rings...they were all in the bottom. This caused things to move and break a shift fork. Monarch quoted me 2 grand just for the fork so I fixed it myself.
Thankfully the old shims worked just fine for most of the shafts. The biggest pain was getting the collars going the right way. They were almost symmetrical so it was hard to tell them apart.
I really should have marked them with a paint marker or something similar. Even with good pictures it would be really hard to see the difference in some of the parts. I also should have put in place holders for the pieces that stayed in the lathe. It was hard to remember which side of a divider some of the pieces went on.
what oil at you going to use The Monarch lub book for our 60 series lathe says Mobile Vactra heavy medium but now may be equivalent to DTE medium. but “ Always Sunny in the shop” says that
Use DTE 26 ISO 68 with anti wear is a better choice. we have spindle shaft out and about ready to assemble. and Monarch sells a oil filter kit for $35 they recommend. please tell us.
I am not sure yet. The manual says SAE 30, I got confused because SAE 30 gear oil is different from SAE 30 motor oil, so I might have the wrong stuff in there now. Abom79 did an oil change on his monarch and got some sort of ISO 100 oil that is equivalent to SAE 30 gear oil.
@@diyVT the manuals that are out there only show parts views. Believe me when I say that not all the parts are listed. Videos like this helped immensely when it came time to tear down the lathe.
I’m rebuilding a 1944 12” CK Monarch. Cracking open the headstock gearbox will be the last task as I’m working my way up in complexity as I go, completely cleaning and repainting everything, new seals, wipes, and bearings. Glad to see a video on completely disassembling the headstock, it’ll help immensely when I get to that point. I like the idea of using a paint marker and numbering the parts and marking the orientation. Thanks for making this series.
It's good to hear someone is finding it useful. Your lathe should be pretty similar to mine. I am interested in seeing how the pull rod that activates the clutch is setup. I think mine may have been modified because it doesn't seem to work like it should.
diyVT I think those little springs that are about the size of a something you’d find in a retractable pen are key to clutch operation. I pulled mine apart, paid big bucks for a new lining and some rivets from Monarch, and replaced the massive bearing on the pulley. I’m currently working on making new centers for both clutch actuation handles. Both were extremely sloppy. Yes, two lathes is not excessive. My other lathe is a cheap import that is dwarfed by the Monarch. I bought the Monarch as a project. Trying to get set up to do some of my own videos.
The clutchwork followed after replacing the 1200rpm original motor with a 1800 rpm motor + vfd. I have the vfd set up with a switch to give 1200. 1800, or 2400 rpm, or effectively 1x, 1.5x, or 2x the rpm on the gearbox plate. If I were to do it again I’d have put in a 5hp motor on a 10hp vfd.
Do yourself a favor and use a carbide scriber and not a marker or paint marker...all my marks washed off in cleaning and with just the intermediate shaft, I installed and removed it 6 times just to get the gear keeper collars back in the right orientation
Always take lots of pictures before taking things apart. Makes putting things back together much easier.
I had the videos to refer back to, and I was careful how I layed out the parts. If I was able to get it done in a shorter amount of time between taking it apart and putting it back together it would have helped.
The pin is a pin with cotter pins on both sides. I found out the hard way, if it is not lined up right when you knock it out, you will get it jammed and then ruin it when you finally do get it out. I took my headstock apart for a broken shift fork.
The pins and cotter pins are a pain. I wonder what someone was thinking putting in those setscrews to hold the ring in place in my lathe's gear box.
@@diyVT LOL...what set screws...when I tore into my headstock last week, none of the set screws were in any of the retainer rings...they were all in the bottom. This caused things to move and break a shift fork. Monarch quoted me 2 grand just for the fork so I fixed it myself.
I would become more and more aggravated with all those pins, set screws, preloading of bearings etc
Thankfully the old shims worked just fine for most of the shafts. The biggest pain was getting the collars going the right way. They were almost symmetrical so it was hard to tell them apart.
diyVT
Thanks.
I learned a lot from this big headstock job.
diyVT
You can take photos and video’s as much as you want, but they do not help when parts are almost symmetrical.
I really should have marked them with a paint marker or something similar. Even with good pictures it would be really hard to see the difference in some of the parts. I also should have put in place holders for the pieces that stayed in the lathe. It was hard to remember which side of a divider some of the pieces went on.
what oil at you going to use
The Monarch lub book for our 60 series lathe says Mobile Vactra heavy medium but now may be equivalent to DTE medium.
but “ Always Sunny in the shop” says that
Use DTE 26 ISO 68 with anti wear is a better choice.
we have spindle shaft out and about ready to assemble.
and Monarch sells a oil filter kit for $35 they recommend.
please tell us.
I am not sure yet. The manual says SAE 30, I got confused because SAE 30 gear oil is different from SAE 30 motor oil, so I might have the wrong stuff in there now. Abom79 did an oil change on his monarch and got some sort of ISO 100 oil that is equivalent to SAE 30 gear oil.
a manual would be handy lol
It would. I have an owners manual but the pictures are pretty fuzzy and it's not exactly the same as my lathe.
@@diyVT the manuals that are out there only show parts views. Believe me when I say that not all the parts are listed. Videos like this helped immensely when it came time to tear down the lathe.