I just bought a 1991 YJ, and have been researching videos about the suspension and such. Yours is the best I've come across yet for in detail views and what to expect.
The kit came with bushing for the sway bar end links/disconnects. As for the leaf spring bolts, it comes with new U-bolts but not the leaf-spring mounting bolts. I did reuse the 22 year old mounting bolts on mine but it all depends on the condition of the bolts and I will most likely replace them when I install my new axles. If you think you need new upper shackle mount bushings you may want to get a set to install while you have everything apart.
Took me forever to find a good clean YJ. It had been garage kept until I bought it. The paint faded out quickly (no garage for me) but I do frame maintenance about once a year to keep it rust free. I hate rust. I did have to PB Blast every nut and bolt several times for the weeks leading up to this lift installation. I had the suspension and axles removed several years ago which did make it easier this time around.
Glad you got it figured out. I didn't even think about your track bar being the issue since I removed my track bar before removing the factory springs and I did not reinstall the front or rear track bars. With the RE leaf springs, I haven't noticed any difference in on road handling with the track bars removed.
Also, the RE 2.5" kit does not include bump stop extensions and with sway bar end links removed, the suspension does flex enough to rub the front tires against the fender when fully compressed. I will have to do something about that soon. 31X10.50-R15 tires may clear fine but my 265/75/R16 are just a little taller and do rub. Bump stop extensions will resolve this issue.
I was having trouble with my YJ drifting to the right a few years back. I had the alignment checked and I checked the usual things that could cause it. Sticking brake, wheel bearings/hub, and more. It turned out to be in the rear diff. The Dana-35 had pieces of the spider gears sitting in the bottom of the housing and there were metal filings binding things up when they found themselves in the right place. Fixed all that (yes the Dana-35 is getting replaced soon) and the YJ tracked straight.
Some old cars have leaf spring suspension similar to my '91 Jeep YJ and '86 Chevrolet M1008. Most have coil springs. My '70 Nova has leaf springs in the rear and coils in the front same as my '00 Ford E150 cargo van and '98 Jeep Cherokee XJ. My '62 VW Beetle has torsion suspension. All three of my Mazda MX5 (Miata), '87 Camaro, '05 Jeep KJ, & '03 Jetta all have coils. My '03 Freightliner has leaf springs in the front and airbags in the rear. Some cars use air ride suspension and coils together.
thanks for doing this buddy. im about to undertake the 4.5 inch re extreme whatever. its gonna be a big undertaking for someone as unexperienced as i so i appreciate you doin this so i can learn a bit
I did. (if you're asking me). I had to take it to the alignment shop and they had to put an air hammer to it to get it loosened up. After the alignment it drifts to the right a bit. I've been through everything to try to figure it out. Now I'm thinking the kit I ordered wasn't very good and the bolt the the spring perch might be off. I don't know. The caster is about where it needs to be, 8 degrees.
No noticeable difference. It tracks straight & with the sway bar connected, it still corners great. Even though the 2.5" lift doesn't require a dropped pitman arm I did install a stock XJ pitman arm to keep steering as close to stock as possible.
I had to let the PB-Blaster soak in for a while before mine would adjust. I don't normally like using heat on steering components but a little heat and a pipe wrench may do the trick.
The dropped pitman arm put it closer to its original position but I still had to adjust the drag-link. Just park with your wheels straight, loosen the to drag-link adjustment clamps and turn the drag-link to make it longer until steering wheel is straight. I can't remember which direction to turn it without looking at it. Also, spray the threads with PB-Blaster before trying to adjust length. You should be fine without the drop pitman arm. Just have to adjust drag-link longer than on mine.
So far, it rides great on & off-road. I have not installed the transfer case lowering kit and have minor driveline vibration when coasting. I am thinking if the suspension settles some that vibration may go away. I do have another NP-231 transfer case that I have already installed an SYE into. I was going to install that & my new rear driveshaft after my rear axle swap but may end up installing them before. I don't want to use the t-case lowering kit if I can avoid it.
The sway bar disconnects that were included with my kit installed the same as original. They might have changed the design in the past 10 years. I hope not. I'll have to look up what RE currently offers with the kit...
I looked them up. RE changed to a style that changes the axle mounting location to a tab that welds to the axle instead of to the original spring plate stud. The old style are now available from Warrior Products in four different lengths. warriorproducts.com/jeep-yj-front-sway-bar-disconnect-kit-83041.html On the site it doesn't list the actual length so I'm not sure which one would be the same as what RE used to offer.
Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully will get some more Jeep videos uploaded through 2015. Just sold off a few other projects to help fund the completion of the '91 YJ. Thanks.
I see the point of a trac bar on a front end with coils but see no point for it being on a leaf spring set up. Wouldn't the leafs just keep the axle centered?
The factory leaf springs do have a little side to side movement when cornering with the track bars removed. I guess that small amount of movement is what they were trying to eliminate. With the much stronger Rubicon Express leaf springs I don't feel any side to side movement when cornering with both track bars removed. Unless you are using a YJ for autocross I would say they aren't needed.
Well I tried to adjust the drag link and I couldn't get it to budge. Even when I took it to get the front end alined they couldn't get it to move either. So im gonna have to put the drop pitman arm on.
I'm planning on getting 2.5 rough country lift, since you had lots of lift experience would you be able to answer few quick questions? 1. it's 2.5 lift, 0.5 lift from hinges and 1.0 lift from body bushings, what would be biggest size tires i will be able to use? 2. considering it totals to 4 inch lift, will i need special adjustments, like pitman arm, removal of track bars, longer break lines?
Eliminating track bars front & rear: If your YJ still rides on stock leaf springs it may feel a little different around curves. The lateral axle movement is very minimal. With good quality aftermarket leaf springs you are less likely to notice any lateral axle movement. Eliminating the front sway bar: The front axle will have much better articulation so make sure your tire size clears the fenders or you will need extended bump stops. On the road or higher speed off roading the vehicle will experience more body roll. Sway bar disconnects are not too expensive and simple to install. Otherwise, just drive it accordingly and you will be just fine.
@@jeepcollector91 First,thanks for quick reply and care.Currently i don't have a car,but yj is my preferred & beloved car,and interested to know every thing about it,wishing own one some day.
Yes, I used the original rear driveshaft for awhile. I did install a different rear driveshaft after installing my other transfer case with the slip yoke eliminator installed. Still running the original front driveshaft.
Chrissy Amorosa As long as we're talking about a YJ here, then yes you can lose the track bars with any lift. Any good quality aftermarket leaf-spring will do just fine at keeping the axles centered without the track bars. It will perform just fine on the street, sand, rocks, wherever... I do leave the front sway-bar connected on sand or any other offroading where I may be traveling at faster speeds but that's just a personal preference. Hope this helps? Thanks.
Chrissy Amorosa To keep the track bars you would have to use the relocation brackets that are included with most lifts. This Rubicon Express 2.5" lift only includes with the relocation bracket for the front as this lift doesn't reuse the rear track bar. The stock front sway-bar is reused with most kits and longer end links are usually included. This lift includes the quick disconnect extended end links which is a bonus. Stock pitman arm can be used but a dropped pitman arm will keep the steering feeling closer to stock and the drag link will require less adjustment to center the steering wheel. I used a stock pitman arm from a '98 Cherokee XJ which is the same drop as a more expensive aftermarket pitman arm for a YJ. You may be able to find someone that has installed a dropped pitman arm on their XJ and they may sell you their stock one for just a few dollars or maybe even give it to you.
hmmmm interesting. I've never seen a car with a leaf spring suspension. & I've never heard of torsion or airbag suspension. I'll have to look these up. Thanks!
I'm having a hell of a time with my shackles, bottom bracket will no hook up correctly, axle hangers are going in crooked, do I need to loosen the other side to roll them
No, I don't believe they were. Just tighten up the shackle bolts to where they are snug then once its back on the ground I would cycle the suspension a few times (jump on the bumper a few times) before torquing the shackle and main eye bolts. This should help seat everything in place.
+JeepCollector91 you bet. Im actually building a Jurassic Park jeep and Im removing the lift off my 93 YJ so your video explains things very clear. Great video. Quick question. When removing the shackle bolts on the front leaf springs how much pressure did you apply to the axle with the jack? im asking becuase im just making sure they dont spring back when the bolts are removed. Same goes for the rear axle. Thank you
+Matt Drake I have always liked the Jurassic Park YJ's. The wheels they had were the same as what my '91 YJ came with other than being painted red. The jack was just there to keep the axle from falling when the leaf spring (already unloaded/full droop) was removed. Could have just used another set of jackstands but if I remember correctly the other set I have was in use on something else at that time.
+JeepCollector91 I had to order the wheels. Been on my jeep for some time now. It had 32s on it. Still has the BDS 3.5" lift. Jeep guys get upset as to why I'm removing the lift until I tell them I'm building a Jurassic Jeep. Since I saw the movie as a kid I've always wanted one. As to the jack I got one. Might use a friends for a second to keep the axle more balanced as you mentioned in the videos. It's a west coast jeep so no rust but I am going to do what you did. Spray every nut and bolt with PB Blaster everyday for a week just in case. Makes the job much easier!!
Hi .. I just installed a 2,5 Rubicon suspension on my jeep yj and I have to say my jeep looks beefed up . Now im gonna change the tires tomorrow , they tell me to install 31 x10.50 R15 tires . Is that right ?? Im gonna do Michelins tires
Yes, 31x10.50R15 will fit perfectly with this lift. I am running 265/75R16 which are basically a 32x10.50 and it's a bit tight on clearance when the front sway bar is disconnected and the suspension is fully flexed.
JeepCollector91 Thanks . My jeep looks great with that 2.5 suspension . I'm gonna keep an eye on the T joint on the drive shaft ( I think that's what its called ) so it don't shred . I don't think it will but i' ll keep an eye on it . I'm sure your jeep will look great after you install your suspensions .
I've had the Rubican shocks for three years now and I'm not very pleased with it . I feel every little pot hole , rock , bump in the road . The Rubican does not absorb any shock at all . My jeep is totally stiff . It might be good for the gran canyons or mountains but doesn't make a good street shock . I might have to change them out in the future .
Thanks again. I really appreciate it. I am looking forward to your video of the extended brake lines installation. I have never done that before. Also, did you get the shock relocation kit from Rubicon Express. I was surprised to see those rear shocks contacting the axle.
Thanks for posting this video. It is very informative and the Rubicon Express lift is one of the lifts I am considering for my '94 YJ. How do you like the lift now that you have had it installed for a few weeks? Thanks again!
+Jason Foust The wheels I have on the YJ are 16x8 Moab's from a Jeep TJ Rubicon. No adapters needed for these. For the JK 17" version you will have to run a wheel adapter/spacer.
Trying to make these videos and dealing with bad weather really drug it out but I would say roughly 8-10 hours of actual work for the lift. About 2-hrs for the brake lines, and 15-min for the transfer case/skid plate lowering kit.
I just ordered my rubicon express 2.5 inch lift kit, as well as rear shock relocation brackets. i was wondering if you replaced the bushings for the sway bar extension links, or does it have them already. And also, should i replace the leaf spring bolts?
All depends what rear leaf springs you are currently running. YJ, XJ, or something else? Or maybe factory TJ rear leaf springs from one of the Military TJ's? If you currently have YJ springs in the original YJ SUA set up then yes, you should be able to get YJ leaf springs of whatever height/lift you are wanting and match it up with the same height/lift TJ coils for the front. Hope that helps some….
***** Might want to look for any part numbers you can find on those leaf springs. That would help find out what they are made for. Many have part numbers stamped into the spring while others are simply painted on.
ahhhhh so much to learn D: so many tools to buy. D: No education No money D: Where do you guys learn all this stuff? Besides here :P I should buy a book.
Mine came with the longer brake line for the rear and hard line extensions for the front. I chose not to use the hard line extensions for the front and bought GOODRIDGE extended brake lines (Part Number D-FBL-47) for around $35 for the pair. I didn't make an install video but did show them in a separate video after installation. ua-cam.com/video/40uI4Q76E5c/v-deo.html
Yes, I ended up installing an SYE and used a shortened Jeep Cherokee XJ front driveshaft for the rear of this YJ. Originally I had installed the T-case drop that came with the kit but it made the transmission difficult to shift into 2nd, 4th, and Reverse so I removed it and installed my other transfer case that I had already installed the SYE on. Had planned on waiting to install it until after the rear axle swap but I couldn't stand the T-case drop anymore.
Old Man Emu makes a really good suspension for YJ's but the Rubicon Express is just as good and comes as a more complete kit plus you get sway-bar disconnects. BDS also makes a great YJ lift.
+Jesus Pacheco Nope. No wheel spaces needed for the tire sizes I run on the 16x8 TJ "Moab" wheels with 5" backspacing. When I was running the LT265/75R16 tires, the tread would rub the leaf spring with the steering at full lock. I adjusted the steering stops with a couple washers for that. I also have a set of 15x8 TJ "Ravine" wheels with 5.5" backspacing with a set of 31x10.50R15 tires. They didn't rub with the added washers on the steering stops. I haven't installed that set again since removing the washers but I think they would clear. I currently have a set of LT245/75R16 tires on the YJ and removed the washers I had previously added to the steering stops. Tires are nowhere near rubbing the springs.
I just bought a 1991 YJ, and have been researching videos about the suspension and such. Yours is the best I've come across yet for in detail views and what to expect.
wow now we know what size wrench to use! thank you for your time
One of ...if not the best conveyed installations I have ever seen!,,
Thanks.
The kit came with bushing for the sway bar end links/disconnects.
As for the leaf spring bolts, it comes with new U-bolts but not the leaf-spring mounting bolts. I did reuse the 22 year old mounting bolts on mine but it all depends on the condition of the bolts and I will most likely replace them when I install my new axles.
If you think you need new upper shackle mount bushings you may want to get a set to install while you have everything apart.
I'm so jealous of the underbody condition of that jeep
Took me forever to find a good clean YJ. It had been garage kept until I bought it. The paint faded out quickly (no garage for me) but I do frame maintenance about once a year to keep it rust free. I hate rust. I did have to PB Blast every nut and bolt several times for the weeks leading up to this lift installation. I had the suspension and axles removed several years ago which did make it easier this time around.
Glad you got it figured out. I didn't even think about your track bar being the issue since I removed my track bar before removing the factory springs and I did not reinstall the front or rear track bars. With the RE leaf springs, I haven't noticed any difference in on road handling with the track bars removed.
Also, the RE 2.5" kit does not include bump stop extensions and with sway bar end links removed, the suspension does flex enough to rub the front tires against the fender when fully compressed. I will have to do something about that soon. 31X10.50-R15 tires may clear fine but my 265/75/R16 are just a little taller and do rub. Bump stop extensions will resolve this issue.
I was having trouble with my YJ drifting to the right a few years back. I had the alignment checked and I checked the usual things that could cause it. Sticking brake, wheel bearings/hub, and more. It turned out to be in the rear diff. The Dana-35 had pieces of the spider gears sitting in the bottom of the housing and there were metal filings binding things up when they found themselves in the right place. Fixed all that (yes the Dana-35 is getting replaced soon) and the YJ tracked straight.
Some old cars have leaf spring suspension similar to my '91 Jeep YJ and '86 Chevrolet M1008. Most have coil springs. My '70 Nova has leaf springs in the rear and coils in the front same as my '00 Ford E150 cargo van and '98 Jeep Cherokee XJ. My '62 VW Beetle has torsion suspension. All three of my Mazda MX5 (Miata), '87 Camaro, '05 Jeep KJ, & '03 Jetta all have coils. My '03 Freightliner has leaf springs in the front and airbags in the rear. Some cars use air ride suspension and coils together.
thanks for doing this buddy. im about to undertake the 4.5 inch re extreme whatever. its gonna be a big undertaking for someone as unexperienced as i so i appreciate you doin this so i can learn a bit
Man! I wish I would have found your channel six months ago. Great information. Thanks!
I did. (if you're asking me). I had to take it to the alignment shop and they had to put an air hammer to it to get it loosened up. After the alignment it drifts to the right a bit. I've been through everything to try to figure it out. Now I'm thinking the kit I ordered wasn't very good and the bolt the the spring perch might be off. I don't know. The caster is about where it needs to be, 8 degrees.
No noticeable difference. It tracks straight & with the sway bar connected, it still corners great. Even though the 2.5" lift doesn't require a dropped pitman arm I did install a stock XJ pitman arm to keep steering as close to stock as possible.
I had to let the PB-Blaster soak in for a while before mine would adjust. I don't normally like using heat on steering components but a little heat and a pipe wrench may do the trick.
The dropped pitman arm put it closer to its original position but I still had to adjust the drag-link. Just park with your wheels straight, loosen the to drag-link adjustment clamps and turn the drag-link to make it longer until steering wheel is straight. I can't remember which direction to turn it without looking at it. Also, spray the threads with PB-Blaster before trying to adjust length. You should be fine without the drop pitman arm. Just have to adjust drag-link longer than on mine.
So far, it rides great on & off-road. I have not installed the transfer case lowering kit and have minor driveline vibration when coasting. I am thinking if the suspension settles some that vibration may go away. I do have another NP-231 transfer case that I have already installed an SYE into. I was going to install that & my new rear driveshaft after my rear axle swap but may end up installing them before. I don't want to use the t-case lowering kit if I can avoid it.
I bought the 2.5 inch lift kit from rubicon, it says that you have to weld the swaybar disconnects, I see you didn't,
The sway bar disconnects that were included with my kit installed the same as original. They might have changed the design in the past 10 years. I hope not.
I'll have to look up what RE currently offers with the kit...
I looked them up. RE changed to a style that changes the axle mounting location to a tab that welds to the axle instead of to the original spring plate stud.
The old style are now available from Warrior Products in four different lengths.
warriorproducts.com/jeep-yj-front-sway-bar-disconnect-kit-83041.html
On the site it doesn't list the actual length so I'm not sure which one would be the same as what RE used to offer.
Thank you for your answers and advice, having a hell of a time trying to figure this out quadretec was no help at all , customer service sucks
I got a lot of help from the guys on the jeep forum.
great vid...thanks for all the hard work! and shareing
Glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully will get some more Jeep videos uploaded through 2015. Just sold off a few other projects to help fund the completion of the '91 YJ.
Thanks.
I see the point of a trac bar on a front end with coils but see no point for it being on a leaf spring set up. Wouldn't the leafs just keep the axle centered?
The factory leaf springs do have a little side to side movement when cornering with the track bars removed. I guess that small amount of movement is what they were trying to eliminate. With the much stronger Rubicon Express leaf springs I don't feel any side to side movement when cornering with both track bars removed. Unless you are using a YJ for autocross I would say they aren't needed.
Well I tried to adjust the drag link and I couldn't get it to budge. Even when I took it to get the front end alined they couldn't get it to move either. So im gonna have to put the drop pitman arm on.
I'm planning on getting 2.5 rough country lift, since you had lots of lift experience would you be able to answer few quick questions?
1. it's 2.5 lift, 0.5 lift from hinges and 1.0 lift from body bushings, what would be biggest size tires i will be able to use?
2. considering it totals to 4 inch lift, will i need special adjustments, like pitman arm, removal of track bars, longer break lines?
Hi,would you tell me what if we cancel track and sway bars from yj,and drive it some miles.what would happens?
Eliminating track bars front & rear:
If your YJ still rides on stock leaf springs it may feel a little different around curves. The lateral axle movement is very minimal. With good quality aftermarket leaf springs you are less likely to notice any lateral axle movement.
Eliminating the front sway bar:
The front axle will have much better articulation so make sure your tire size clears the fenders or you will need extended bump stops. On the road or higher speed off roading the vehicle will experience more body roll. Sway bar disconnects are not too expensive and simple to install. Otherwise, just drive it accordingly and you will be just fine.
@@jeepcollector91 First,thanks for quick reply and care.Currently i don't have a car,but yj is my preferred & beloved car,and interested to know every thing about it,wishing own one some day.
Like your video . I have 92 and 2.5 is what I'm doing my question is did you use stock driveshaft
Yes, I used the original rear driveshaft for awhile.
I did install a different rear driveshaft after installing my other transfer case with the slip yoke eliminator installed.
Still running the original front driveshaft.
@@jeepcollector91 awesome tks like your jeep
Great Jeep videos! Thorough.
Question...can you run a 2.5" lift with no track bars on the beach? No rocks. Thanks for your time.
Chrissy Amorosa As long as we're talking about a YJ here, then yes you can lose the track bars with any lift. Any good quality aftermarket leaf-spring will do just fine at keeping the axles centered without the track bars. It will perform just fine on the street, sand, rocks, wherever... I do leave the front sway-bar connected on sand or any other offroading where I may be traveling at faster speeds but that's just a personal preference.
Hope this helps? Thanks.
Can you leave stock track and sway bars, pitman arm and drag link bar with the 2.5"?
Chrissy Amorosa To keep the track bars you would have to use the relocation brackets that are included with most lifts. This Rubicon Express 2.5" lift only includes with the relocation bracket for the front as this lift doesn't reuse the rear track bar.
The stock front sway-bar is reused with most kits and longer end links are usually included. This lift includes the quick disconnect extended end links which is a bonus.
Stock pitman arm can be used but a dropped pitman arm will keep the steering feeling closer to stock and the drag link will require less adjustment to center the steering wheel. I used a stock pitman arm from a '98 Cherokee XJ which is the same drop as a more expensive aftermarket pitman arm for a YJ. You may be able to find someone that has installed a dropped pitman arm on their XJ and they may sell you their stock one for just a few dollars or maybe even give it to you.
hmmmm interesting. I've never seen a car with a leaf spring suspension. & I've never heard of torsion or airbag suspension. I'll have to look these up. Thanks!
Can you use the stock shackles for this application?
Yes. I retained the original shackles.
Thanks so much
No problem with the back?
@@rickyhino2367 None with mine. Unless RE changed something with the springs since then.
I'm having a hell of a time with my shackles, bottom bracket will no hook up correctly, axle hangers are going in crooked, do I need to loosen the other side to roll them
No, I don't believe they were.
Just tighten up the shackle bolts to where they are snug then once its back on the ground I would cycle the suspension a few times (jump on the bumper a few times) before torquing the shackle and main eye bolts. This should help seat everything in place.
The 3 people who disliked this video cant follow clear instructions.
+Matt Drake
I just figured they didn't like my voice...LOL
Thanks.
+JeepCollector91 you bet. Im actually building a Jurassic Park jeep and Im removing the lift off my 93 YJ so your video explains things very clear. Great video. Quick question. When removing the shackle bolts on the front leaf springs how much pressure did you apply to the axle with the jack? im asking becuase im just making sure they dont spring back when the bolts are removed. Same goes for the rear axle. Thank you
+JeepCollector91 Dont answer that. haha i watched you explain it again. Just supporting the weight of the axle.
+Matt Drake
I have always liked the Jurassic Park YJ's. The wheels they had were the same as what my '91 YJ came with other than being painted red.
The jack was just there to keep the axle from falling when the leaf spring (already unloaded/full droop) was removed. Could have just used another set of jackstands but if I remember correctly the other set I have was in use on something else at that time.
+JeepCollector91 I had to order the wheels. Been on my jeep for some time now. It had 32s on it. Still has the BDS 3.5" lift. Jeep guys get upset as to why I'm removing the lift until I tell them I'm building a Jurassic Jeep. Since I saw the movie as a kid I've always wanted one. As to the jack I got one. Might use a friends for a second to keep the axle more balanced as you mentioned in the videos. It's a west coast jeep so no rust but I am going to do what you did. Spray every nut and bolt with PB Blaster everyday for a week just in case. Makes the job much easier!!
I removed the track bar and it let the axle swing back over and straightened them, thanks though!
Hi .. I just installed a 2,5 Rubicon suspension on my jeep yj and I have to say my jeep looks beefed up . Now im gonna change the tires tomorrow , they tell me to install 31 x10.50 R15 tires . Is that right ?? Im gonna do Michelins tires
Yes, 31x10.50R15 will fit perfectly with this lift. I am running 265/75R16 which are basically a 32x10.50 and it's a bit tight on clearance when the front sway bar is disconnected and the suspension is fully flexed.
JeepCollector91
Thanks . My jeep looks great with that 2.5 suspension . I'm gonna keep an eye on the T joint on the drive shaft ( I think that's what its called ) so it don't shred . I don't think it will but i' ll keep an eye on it . I'm sure your jeep will look great after you install your suspensions .
I've had the Rubican shocks for three years now and I'm not very pleased with it .
I feel every little pot hole , rock , bump in the road . The Rubican does not absorb any shock at all . My jeep is totally stiff . It might be good for the gran canyons or mountains but doesn't make a good street shock .
I might have to change them out in the future .
Thanks again. I really appreciate it. I am looking forward to your video of the extended brake lines installation. I have never done that before. Also, did you get the shock relocation kit from Rubicon Express. I was surprised to see those rear shocks contacting the axle.
Thanks for posting this video. It is very informative and the Rubicon Express lift is one of the lifts I am considering for my '94 YJ. How do you like the lift now that you have had it installed for a few weeks? Thanks again!
This is something I can actually do. its between this and the cherokee. the cherokee I probably would not be able to do. This I could
I want to put those same JK wheels on my YJ. Did you need any adapters/spacers?
+Jason Foust
The wheels I have on the YJ are 16x8 Moab's from a Jeep TJ Rubicon. No adapters needed for these.
For the JK 17" version you will have to run a wheel adapter/spacer.
Ok I just got finished with the front on mine. My steering wheel isn't straight any more. Is that why you put the longer pitman arm on?
How long did this take you.
Trying to make these videos and dealing with bad weather really drug it out but I would say roughly 8-10 hours of actual work for the lift. About 2-hrs for the brake lines, and 15-min for the transfer case/skid plate lowering kit.
Does leaving the track bar off make a difference on the highway?
When you put your new springs in did it make your shackles crooked at all? Mine are and im hoping they will straighten once its on the ground.
I just ordered my rubicon express 2.5 inch lift kit, as well as rear shock relocation brackets. i was wondering if you replaced the bushings for the sway bar extension links, or does it have them already. And also, should i replace the leaf spring bolts?
My TJ has coil springs in front, and leaf springs in the back. Would it be possible to do a TJ lift on the front, and YJ on the rear?
All depends what rear leaf springs you are currently running.
YJ, XJ, or something else? Or maybe factory TJ rear leaf springs from one of the Military TJ's? If you currently have YJ springs in the original YJ SUA set up then yes, you should be able to get YJ leaf springs of whatever height/lift you are wanting and match it up with the same height/lift TJ coils for the front.
Hope that helps some….
Idk, it had them on their when it was bought. When I look up lift kits for my year model it brings up coil springs all around.
***** Might want to look for any part numbers you can find on those leaf springs. That would help find out what they are made for. Many have part numbers stamped into the spring while others are simply painted on.
Oh ok, I'll have to look, thanks for the tip.
ahhhhh so much to learn D: so many tools to buy. D: No education No money D: Where do you guys learn all this stuff? Besides here :P I should buy a book.
My rubicon express lift only came with rear brake lines. Did you buy your front brake extensions separate?
Mine came with the longer brake line for the rear and hard line extensions for the front. I chose not to use the hard line extensions for the front and bought GOODRIDGE extended brake lines (Part Number D-FBL-47) for around $35 for the pair. I didn't make an install video but did show them in a separate video after installation.
ua-cam.com/video/40uI4Q76E5c/v-deo.html
Hey are you running a CV Drive shaft and a SYE????
Yes, I ended up installing an SYE and used a shortened Jeep Cherokee XJ front driveshaft for the rear of this YJ. Originally I had installed the T-case drop that came with the kit but it made the transmission difficult to shift into 2nd, 4th, and Reverse so I removed it and installed my other transfer case that I had already installed the SYE on. Had planned on waiting to install it until after the rear axle swap but I couldn't stand the T-case drop anymore.
Do cars have suspension springs or do they have a different suspension system?
Did you get your drag link issue worked out?
Have you heard of old man EMU lifts?...
Old Man Emu makes a really good suspension for YJ's but the Rubicon Express is just as good and comes as a more complete kit plus you get sway-bar disconnects. BDS also makes a great YJ lift.
do u have wheel spacers to fit thoses wheels on ur jeep
+Jesus Pacheco
Nope. No wheel spaces needed for the tire sizes I run on the 16x8 TJ "Moab" wheels with 5" backspacing.
When I was running the LT265/75R16 tires, the tread would rub the leaf spring with the steering at full lock. I adjusted the steering stops with a couple washers for that.
I also have a set of 15x8 TJ "Ravine" wheels with 5.5" backspacing with a set of 31x10.50R15 tires. They didn't rub with the added washers on the steering stops. I haven't installed that set again since removing the washers but I think they would clear.
I currently have a set of LT245/75R16 tires on the YJ and removed the washers I had previously added to the steering stops. Tires are nowhere near rubbing the springs.
frames sooo clean up in ohio we have to pb blast everything nothings clean...
Those bald BFG's are 30.5" tall. You said 32" tall. Man you lost a lot of tread.