Also see: 2 Prong Receptacle Circuit Replaced by GFCI and Grounded Receptacles per 2020 NEC: ua-cam.com/video/16KObgI44UE/v-deo.html In this video I find the most upstream receptacle, install a GFCI receptacle there, then use new grounded receptacles to replace the 2 prong ungrounded receptacles. I wanted to make videos showing both methods.
Bill, I may have to stop watching your videos because the more Sparky videos I watch the more tools I "think" I need to buy. Now I want a circuit analyzer, oh AND a cordless vacuum.
Thank you Sparky!!! I had made this comment on the other version of the video, but I just wanted to be sure you got the right kudo's for this "Educational Purposes Video." This video was exactly what I needed (commented on a different video). I will change out all my outlets to CGFI and not worry about which is the first in series. I did find and mark with "pinkish-reddish" tape the line wire! (saw you do that in another video). My house was build in 1956. No ground wires. The line wire was stipped about halfway away from the back of the box and the load wire crimped to that then black taped all together. The end of the "pig tail" was stipped back about 1 inch and connected to the box. I cut the crimped portion out and used a three hole WAGO level nut with a 4 inch pigtail to go to the outlet. Got it all hooked up and dang!!! It all worked just like you said!! Thank you. Of course now I have the rest of the house to do.
I love those lever nuts for hard to reach spots and old wires that have been cut too short over the years. I think I learned about them from your channel.
I'm a diesel mechanic specializing in DC and I'm just getting into the world of AC and found your channel. It's awesome and very informative. Thanks for making these videos!
@Sparky Channel. Thanks Bill for these educational videos. I love your attention to details including vacuuming out each work box. Your explanations are clear. And it's nice that the voltage drop improved. And while some of those outlets gained a working ground, like you said, to meet code you still had to mark them as not having a working ground. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
As extreme a solution as it sounds, this is where I started. I replaced the load center with a newer one, with plug on neutral, then added a (GFI) CAFCI breaker (GFI in the newer panels). I needed to replace the panel for other reasons as well. I rewired the BR, but that took 12 hours, as 2/3 of the boxes needed to come out as well. This gives me time to slow down, and put my projects in order.
As a Sparky from Switzerland I am also impressed that you know Companies like Wago and Knipex in the US. I honestly do not know how strict your regulations are compared to the ones that we have in Switzerland, because in CH(international shortcut) every outlet must have a Ground. I am also amazed that you still have to turn a screw to lock the wire in place, we usually use products from Feller (a Company from CH with produces Outlets and Switches) those one have some kind of click system where you just stick your wire in and its done. But its interesting how electricians work around the world.
Thanks for posting this video and taking the time to share your knowledge. I need videos like these so that I can educate myself in areas that are not my expertise so that I understand what work an electrician or mechanic etc. needs to complete and ensure that the work is being done correctly. I just subscribed!
There was a problem with the audio on the original. I wrote you a note about it in the comment section of the original. I'm going to hate to take down the original as it had so many great comments and discussions. I wish YT had a way to keep all the comments and likes when you want to improve a video like this.
Great video! Not to confuse others but as we know, sometimes breakers are doubled up(they shouldnt be) so you may think its "1 circuit" that's off but its not so you'll have multiple rooms out.
This would seem to me to be a lot of voltage drop for the distance. Is this 14 ga. wire? 40 feet of total wire from the breaker to the 6th outlet. In a modern circuit what would you expect over a similar distance? 2nd less important question. Should you have checked the continuity of the box and the neutral to see if there was a ground even though it is not code and put a ground wire in the box to the receptacle? That is more of a preference question. What I might do if I was being paid for production might be different than what I would do for myself.
Remember, this is voltage drop with 15A load on the circuit. That's a huge load, approximately like a Skilsaw at start-up. Having said that, the most downstream receptacles had a lot of Vd. regardless. Checking the continuity of the box and the neutral would be a good idea. Yes, 14ga wire and 15A circuit. If it was me wiring the house new I would use all 12ga for the receptacles, put only the farthest bedroom on one circuit. In other words I would use larger gauge wire and more 20A circuit breakers.
@@SparkyChannel Thank you. So much of electricians work is a debate about technique. If I understand various comments around the web about the 2020 code is that it keeps pushing farther toward all 12 ga, ground wire included. And that may well continue in the 2023 code as well. 12 ga. would be a lot less resistance, therefore more voltage and a LOT less potential heat in the circuit. Stranded 12 ga would be even better. But lots more cost. I haven't seen a push-button breaker panel in quite a while. My high school gym had them in the 60's. Used them like switches. Probably made them fail frequently.
@@larrylawson5172 Excellent discussion, I love it! I went to all 12 ga years ago in my electrical planning and drafting. Keeping wires and devices as cool as possible is extremely important. Also, people will add on to your circuits whether it's legal or not so I like to plan for it. LOL on the gym breakers!
I just tried looking for the most upstream receptacle and was unsuccessful due to all the receptacle on the circuit only has 1 hot / 1 neutral wire on all 5 receptacle. None of the 5 had 2 hots / 2 neutrals, Will i have to replace all 5 with a gfci. FYI its an old house with no ground.
GREAT VIDEO...but I thought you didn't need to replace all 2 prongs with all new GCFI's. Thought the (ONE) closes upstream would protect all the others down stream from it. Just trying to learn.
the pigtail approach enables you to use gfci's in all the downstream outlets. gfci's containing usb charge slots do not exist. most folks want that feature when upgrading an old two prong duplex outlet. in order to use modern duplex outlets containing usb charge slots, only use the gfci on the first outlet in the circuit while using the load side of that gfci to power the downstream usb outlets.
If you have 2 prong receptacles your wiring is probably very old. It may be a good idea to use a combination GFCI/AFCI to benefit from the added arc fault protection for safety reasons. It’s a whole lot cheaper than a rewire and updating your breaker panel.
Thank you for the video....while I can possibly try to do this task, I choose to get an electrician to do my electrical work. Reason being is I know my limits and choose not to expand my limits. Great educational content on the process.
@@mernok2001 old house. Back before 1980s they used to put a lot together. Plus modifications were made where they installed lighting on the receptacle circuit which was 15A anyway.
i love that fancy pushmaic panel, anyway, one of my houses is from 1960, it is small with 2 bedrooms. but it has 2 electrical panels and 33 electrical circuits, don't know why that many circuits for such a small house. it also has an FPE panel, so that is fun.
Hi Sparky. The electrician who did my last home which was a semicustom build told me he pigtails the neutrals but passes through the hots to help with debugging fauts. What do you think of this approach and does it meet current code?
My house has (3) two prog receptacles in a room. Can I install a GFCI receptacle in the home run box and wire the home run on the line side and the branch circuit on the load side? If I install a ground pigtail in back off the box, will that fix the “open ground”? Then install the next receptacles with GFCI and wire them on line side?
Do not try to improvise anything with the ground.The open ground is not something that needs to be fixed. Marking the socket with the text "No equipment ground" tells that the ground is open. Remember the ground wire can carry electricity both ways so do not connect it to anything where it should not be connected.
I love these videos, I've learned more then I ever could have imagined. In general, I get a bit tired of some safety redundancies (not that I would disregard them), and I'm surprised electrical videos aren't loaded with comments about lock-out tag-out procedures. However, would it be good practice to check both outlets on a receptical for power in case someone tried to do a half switched receptical....especially in situations where the outlets maybe be the victims of pre-youtube DIY work....or would that just be unnecessary redundancy?
That would be totally fine. Here's my video on that: 2 Prong Receptacle Circuit Replaced by GFCI and Grounded Receptacles per 2020 NEC: ua-cam.com/video/16KObgI44UE/v-deo.html I wanted to give both options. I have videos for both ways. Thanks Zack!
If the receptacles are connected each other, would it be enough replacing only the first receptacle from the breaker with gfci and connect the next receptacle to Load of gfci?
Both ways are acceptable and both ways have benefits. Having separate GFCIs ensures that no receptacle loses power based on what happens on another receptacle.
@@okaro6595 that's correct. And running them through a GFCI ensures that all downstream receptacles have at least ground fault protection. I'm not sure what method is better.
I pulled out an old electric outlet, to replace it with a GFCI. I accidentally touched some part of the old outlet while removing it on the metal box, and saw a small spark. (I thought the fuse was out, but maybe I had the wrong fuse out). Now, I am reading 14 volts from hot to neutral, and from hot to the metal box(ground). I've pulled every fuse in the panel, and still see 14 volts! Note, the outlet was working fine before my accident (although the hot/neutral were reversed). What did I do break when that old receptacle sparked? Did I burn/short a wire, or junction? How do I find the problem. I cannot use continuity tests since I have 14 volts present. Help!
It sounds like there could be a device or appliance on that circuit that may be backfeeding via capacitors. For example, a dishwasher since those have starter capacitors for the sump.
Here in California, I had to have arc fault breakers installed for the outlets without ground wires. That panel is the weak safety link in case of lightning
Yup, the code has changed to the point GFCI & AFCI are required everywhere, Lol. In older homes with ungrounded systems it’s worth the panel change out. But not everybody can afford it. Or the rehire.
Question: can a single GFCI receptacle be used to protect all other down-stream receptacles? Is yes, should the GFCI receptacle be connected in series rather than parallel?
Ground is for safety of the user. The GFCI is for the same. I some aspects the GFCI is actually better. For example if there is damaged cord where the live i exposed and you touch it. Grounding does nothing to protect you. I have not seen an equipment that needs ground - or maybe a computer UPS is one. The no equipment ground helps anyone inspecting it. He will not treat lack of ground as a fault.
@@okaro6595 the ground does help. If the appliance is metal. And becomes love due to breakdown of insolation inside or some other fault. As long as the metal is grounded which all class I appliances are the fuse will blow and or GFCI/RCD will trip. Where as with just a GFCI/RCD you’re replying on the user to touch it to then trip by the used then providing a path to ground. Ideally they should be used together.
What do you do when you have a light switch connected to 1 of the receptacles and the other has constant power? I can't find a GFCI that allows for a connection like this.
I see three choices. Make the entire outlet a switched outlet. Make the entire outlet, a non-switched outlet. Expand the box, and put in a second outlet, and make one switched. For as simple as switched outlets are, they tend to create drama. A dumb friend, literally called an electrician, when half the outlet was not working. The electrician turned on the switch. (lol).
I fished a grounding wire to the receptacles. Found this to be the easiest solution. Wasn't the cheapest or fastest, but luckily I had good attic access and it all worked out.
13.5% seems like a pretty high voltage drop. Maybe you could do a video discussing voltage drop. (NEC recommendations, sources of voltage drop, effects of voltage drop) This video got me thinking about a similar situation I have with a string of 8 receptacles connected by a raceway. I don't have the fancy circuit analyzer, but with a 15 Amp (1875 watt) hairdryer on max heat, I only get a 4.7% voltage drop on the last (8th) receptacle, which I think is acceptable.
Hi Mark! The Vd readings were with a 15A load which is very different from just measuring the Vd of the wire itself. Also, it's original 1960 wiring. Thanks!
@@SparkyChannel good point. In both my reading and yours,Vd includes the voltage drop all the way back to the transformer. But doesn't the NEC want the total Vd including the service drop to be less than 5%?
Great video, thank you. One question: If you plug in an extension cord to the GFCI receptacle, does that mean that whatever you connect to it, is ground protected? Or a power strip; is it ground safe?
Everything you plug is of course protected. Why would you think an extension cord would somehow remove the protection? Ground safe? I do not know the meaning of that term. Now I would not take the extension cord to outside especially if there were actual grounded outlets there.
One more thing if I may please. So if I switch out to the GFCI and there is no ground, then my electronics will not be safe from a surge using the GCFI. But, if I installed a ground then the outlet would trip, shut off and my electronic device will be saved. For the most part??? Thank you!
GFCI has absolutely nothing to do with surge protection. Surge protectors connect all the three lines with varistors. They work better with ground but should also work without.
If installed correctly the (GFCI's) main function is to operate as a circuit breaker. The first step is finding the lead receptacle by either monitoring them all and finding the receptacle with the lowest voltage drop OR by pulling all the receptacles out of the wall and testing which wires are hot and which ones that aren't. Lets say you got 4 outlet/receptacles on the same line or you think they're on the same line and you can't test for voltage drop likecthe dude in the video. The way you find out which one is the lead outlet is by first turning off all the power. Disconnect all the wiring from the outlets/ receptacles making sure to keeping the wires spaced out from each other and then turning the power back on. Then using your voltage tester, there should be only one outlet on that line getting power/juice from the panel the other outlets should test out as dead or no power. If another outlet/receptacle does show power then its obviuosly on a different circuit wire. If only one outlet wire has power then that's your lead circuit/outlet. Long story short. If installed correctly or in similar fashion as the guy in the tutorial your lead receptacle that's been replaced by the GFCI becomes a circuit breaker so to speak. Therefore protecting all other outlets down the line and also your stereo/tv equipment if its connected to the GFCI or to one of the other receptacles on that line if anything goes wrong/haywire. Just like one of the circuit breakers in your electrical panel the GFCI Monitors electrical current going to and from it. If there's an electrical surge or too much power on that line the GFCI will shut itself off along with everything else on its line
@@manny7886 .........I'm glad I could be of some assistance. Even though your electrical equipment is now protected, don't forget to put the "no ground" stickers or lables on those GFCI receptacles.
@@donniematonnie9378 great comment! I had a quick question. Once I find head of circuit & gcfi it, can I just install regular 3 prong on the rest of the 2 prong outlets?
Just keep in mind that per 210.12 there are now very few places where a replacement of an ungrounded receptacle would not require both AFCI and GFCI protection. A dual AFCI/GFCI outlet is slightly larger and costs about $26
Hi. U mentioned something I hadn’t heard before so wanted to ask…you said I used a gfci on the one and then on the rest on the circuit juat “grounding receptacles”. I though a grounding receptacle was a gfci. Could you clarify the difference. Obviously I’m a DIY newbie. Sorry for the dumb question.
The assumption that any receptacle which isn't powered after shutting off the breaker at the main panel must belong to the same circuit is not necessarily true. An unpowered receptacle may not be receiving power for a number of reasons and may not be on the circuit that was turned off. The question that is required for accuracy is: were all of the receptacles powered before the breaker was turned off? This is obvious but for those DIYers new to doing electrical work it is necessary to always check for power and not assume that if a receptacle isn't working there isn't power being delivered to the wall box.
Hi Sparky, love your channel. HOwever I do not agree with your and your inspectors interpretation of the code regarding grounding, since this is a preexisting circuit that was approved under the NEC/local code(s) effective at that time. While you are replacing the devices, you are not rewiring that circuit, or the house. If that was the case, then you must meet the current NEC code requirements for wiring and grounding.
Why are the grounding pigtails they sell online green? Every video I've seen says they are bare copper. Are the green ones for special purposes or a new code or for country's other than the U.S?
Yo Sparky.....great vid....big Q : if I have an electrician install gfi breakers in the MAIN panel...that be a groovy method ....? Thanks for your reply ahead of time.
Great Video, Thanks for making it. What camera are you using to record the video? I ask as some cameras let you set hz to 50 or 60 if camera has feature it would make the shots of your analyzer more clear and less pulsing.
I was using a GH5 at 30 fps. I think 60 fps would have the same problem. Perhaps 24 fps would make the shots of my analyzer more clear and less pulsing? Any advise?
As long as the outlets are GFCI protected and marked so that you immediately know it and that there is no equipment ground the details do not matter. The GFCI can be upstream or in the panel.
No, it is a 120 V receptacle. GFCI outlets cannot be used with wrong voltages as the test button would work incorrectly. In the US there are different voltages for 240 V. In a different country use receptacles designed for that country.
@@vincentpereira8416 If you're talking of US biphase current you should use a NEMA 6 if you don't have a neutral and a NEMA 14 if you have it (of both there are various variants according to the amperage you'll need). If you're not in the US and you're talking of monophase 240V you should use the one of your contry
@@SparkyChannel Bill, did you choose not to string the other receptacles off the upstream GFCI receptacle because this will be a rental home? This way, it is more simple for the renters to maybe reset the GFCI themselves and not lose food in the fridge waiting for the landlord to come over and restore the power?
@@jeffcaptain6738 Notice that he didn't hook any wiring to the load side of the GFCI's, ie; running in series. Instead, he ran a continuous hot and neutral to each box, and pigtailed them individually to the line side, thus running in parallel. Why knock out a whole circuit, when you can just take out the one outlet that had a fault? Much easier to diagnose a problem. In the video description, he leaves a link for how to connect a string of regular duplexes in series, with 1 GFCI as the first one on the circuit.
leds flash imperceptibly to our eyes. the camera he was using must have had a frame capture rate that made it perceptible. If you want a better explaination google "filming a tv screen." And good question.
15:32 It appears, which I could be wrong, but the wiring in the house is 12AWG, and it seems that your adding 14AWG pigtails for the outlet? Good video, keep up the good work.
Ten foot tap rule? Granted I always use the same size conductor when I pigtail but then again its no different then using a 15amp receptacle as a splice on a 20amp circuit.
About to do this in my 1965 house. I wish I could validate spending the big bucks on that analyzer lol. I'll just have to do it the hard way. find the outlet with 2 sets of wire and only one side hot with the breaker on lol. Thanks man. Saved me a lot of hassle with this vid! I'm not an electrician. I've learned a good bit from them and some while doing HVAC. I do enjoy doing electrical work. Now...the big boy 3 phase stuff like 480v and up? I'll pass lol.
Would a mutimeter give me a stronger reading the closer upstream I get to the main outlet and could I just use that reading to indicate the closest outlet or main outlet to install a GFCI.
Hello and thanks for the video. Most outlets in this house I just bought are two prong. But how can I determine the most upstream without a fancy gadget?
Disconnect all receptacles and the Circuit Breaker wires. Continuity test each set to trace them to your feeder. By far faster to replace the CB with a combo afci/GFCI Breaker. More time trying to find and replace the first receptacle with a GFCI receptacle and go down the line to replace the non grounded to a grounded receptacle.
@@smartcookie3500 True, sort of. But for a weekend warrior, far less intimidating to put in a GFCI receptacle than to muck around inside a service panel, and besides, if the problem is that all the existing outlets are 2 prong and need to be replaced with grounding type three prong devices, no time is wasted in disconnecting every receptacle. If the job is going to be done in the workmanlike manner Sparky Bill suggests, then doing one circuit at a time, and putting WAGOs on every wire eliminates the continuity testing you suggest. You can do the whole job with a cheap breaker finder and an equally cheap non contact voltage tester. Identify every device on the circuit, shut down the circuit. Remove every device and wire nut every wire. Re-energise the circuit, test with the non-contact tester. Only the first receptacle on the circuit will light the tester. Shut off the breaker again and install the GFCI there. Install the rest of the receptacles. Re energise the circuit, test, install the cover plates and lables...done.
No! GFCI receptacle only needs to be used as the 1st in a series, if wired correctly. Use the Line (in) connection for power to the GFCI, and Load (out) connection to power the following receptacles down the series. Here is a better video for that. ua-cam.com/video/7aHeRgpfQhE/v-deo.html
I still think 13.5% Vd is a lot. In your other video you even say it "should" be less than 5%. You probably don't want to run your table saw on the receptacle at the end of that line. After this video, I have measured the 15A Vd of all 68 receptacles in my house. Knowing what I know now, I would want to make sure at least #12 wire is used in long runs, even for 15 Amp circuits. And route wires in a way to minimize the wire length. My highest Vd is 8.2% in a recent addition. The electrician did a very neat job, but I think he should have known how to calculate Vd based on wire length. Wire is not that expensive relative to the total cost.
You know, people that switch a receptacle in a room should be required to mark a receptacle per 406.3(E) I don't know how many times I've showed up in a resident and there are switch controlled outlets that the owner had no idea were switched when they bought the home, and they are like, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't lol. It's a little more obvious if they switched the top receptacle and the bottom is always hot. It could be a bad switch. I guess it could be the plug but unless it's really old, chances are it's a bad switch. I've seen bathroom plugs in one house in a more expensive part of the neighborhood lose power and it took about 30 minutes to figure out it was a GFCI in the hall outside of the bathroom that controlled it, lol. I've seen newer expensive homes somehow get away with a GFCI being hidden in one of the tall cabinets of the bathroom. Some of the craziest things that you run into when you show up to figure out why they lost power, or older bigger homes that have partial voltage at receptacles in multiple rooms, and you're trying to find where the receptacle is, that is stabbed, that lost the connection. People remodel and the guy doing the wiring is randomly throwing a receptacle here and there in different rooms from the same branch circuit lol.
Yes, that’s why many electricians will put the switched outlet with the ground up to ID the switched outlet. And the Code is silent on outlets being ground up or down. Which is an entirely a different debate. And about GFCI s. That is why I changed to using the much more expensive GFCI breaker type, easier to trouble shoot.
@@stevelopez372 that's not true! Putting the ground prong up is a safety feature to keep anything from grounding across the Neutral and Hot if a plug comes out part way. I know this for a fact. It's done in many place for a safety feature!!!!!!!!!!!!11111
now I have one of those circuit tracers, and every time I used mine, I had to make 3, 4 and 5 passes over it to get it to stop giving false chirps, Bill. I think you rushed that and already knew which one it was lol because the bottom left breaker chirped at you just before going to the top of the second row and coming down. I know how that thing works, and you have to make several passes over it for it to learn what signal not to sound of at. oh, and they make a light socket plug to use with that and a plug with alligator clips in case you are doing a remodel job and there are no light fixtures in and you want to find the breaker without guessing or you don't have anyone to flip breakers for you.
Also see: 2 Prong Receptacle Circuit Replaced by GFCI and Grounded Receptacles per 2020 NEC: ua-cam.com/video/16KObgI44UE/v-deo.html
In this video I find the most upstream receptacle, install a GFCI receptacle there, then use new grounded receptacles to replace the 2 prong ungrounded receptacles. I wanted to make videos showing both methods.
maybe you can explain why a multiple GFCI can be used in parallel but not in series. I see this mistake a lot.
Bill, I may have to stop watching your videos because the more Sparky videos I watch the more tools I "think" I need to buy. Now I want a circuit analyzer, oh AND a cordless vacuum.
Thank you Sparky!!! I had made this comment on the other version of the video, but I just wanted to be sure you got the right kudo's for this "Educational Purposes Video." This video was exactly what I needed (commented on a different video). I will change out all my outlets to CGFI and not worry about which is the first in series. I did find and mark with "pinkish-reddish" tape the line wire! (saw you do that in another video). My house was build in 1956. No ground wires. The line wire was stipped about halfway away from the back of the box and the load wire crimped to that then black taped all together. The end of the "pig tail" was stipped back about 1 inch and connected to the box. I cut the crimped portion out and used a three hole WAGO level nut with a 4 inch pigtail to go to the outlet. Got it all hooked up and dang!!! It all worked just like you said!! Thank you. Of course now I have the rest of the house to do.
I love 1956 houses! They are solid and were built much better than present day houses. The electrical takes some work though. :) Great job, thanks!
I love those lever nuts for hard to reach spots and old wires that have been cut too short over the years. I think I learned about them from your channel.
Excellent! Thanks Matt!
I'm a diesel mechanic specializing in DC and I'm just getting into the world of AC and found your channel. It's awesome and very informative. Thanks for making these videos!
Glad you like them! Welcome to Sparky Channel!
This channel has encouraged me to go out and get my license! see you in 2.5 years!
Excellent! It's a great trade!
@Sparky Channel. Thanks Bill for these educational videos. I love your attention to details including vacuuming out each work box. Your explanations are clear. And it's nice that the voltage drop improved. And while some of those outlets gained a working ground, like you said, to meet code you still had to mark them as not having a working ground.
Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Yes, it's the details that make the job! Thanks and you guys stay safe as well!
I'm shocked.. This was one of the better videos, That i've seen so far, Great job Sparky!
Thanks Stan!
As extreme a solution as it sounds, this is where I started. I replaced the load center with a newer one, with plug on neutral, then added a (GFI) CAFCI breaker (GFI in the newer panels). I needed to replace the panel for other reasons as well. I rewired the BR, but that took 12 hours, as 2/3 of the boxes needed to come out as well. This gives me time to slow down, and put my projects in order.
Thanks for the re-upload! Really appreciate these videos!
Not a problem. I had a bit of audio problem on the first one. Thanks!
My house was built in 1986 and I just replaced one of my outlets. This video helped a lot. Thanks.
No problem, thanks!
These vids will be really helpful for me when I grow up, thanks for the good content bro!
Absolutely! Thanks!
As a Sparky from Switzerland I am also impressed that you know Companies like Wago and Knipex in the US. I honestly do not know how strict your regulations are compared to the ones that we have in Switzerland, because in CH(international shortcut) every outlet must have a Ground. I am also amazed that you still have to turn a screw to lock the wire in place, we usually use products from Feller (a Company from CH with produces Outlets and Switches) those one have some kind of click system where you just stick your wire in and its done. But its interesting how electricians work around the world.
Cheers from San Diego, California! Your codes sound excellent to me. Yes, it's very interesting!
Thank you so much for your thorough, practical, step-by-step explanations! You are now my go-to resource for electrical knowledge!
You are welcome! Thanks Drew!
Thank you. I understood all of your teaching. Enjoyed learning your method of finding first through last receptacle on a circuit.
Thanks for posting this video and taking the time to share your knowledge. I need videos like these so that I can educate myself in areas that are not my expertise so that I understand what work an electrician or mechanic etc. needs to complete and ensure that the work is being done correctly. I just subscribed!
Nice work. I see you fixed your audio issue. I 👍 again.
There was a problem with the audio on the original. I wrote you a note about it in the comment section of the original. I'm going to hate to take down the original as it had so many great comments and discussions. I wish YT had a way to keep all the comments and likes when you want to improve a video like this.
Thanks so much Mike! Only the best here. LOL!
Great video! Not to confuse others but as we know, sometimes breakers are doubled up(they shouldnt be) so you may think its "1 circuit" that's off but its not so you'll have multiple rooms out.
Very excellent point. There should never be more than one hot wire going to a breaker.
Thanks for the great video sparky!
Thanks Jeff!
I like the Knipex hand-tools, great quality tools made of good quality metal for sure, and the action on them is great, not stiff at all!
This would seem to me to be a lot of voltage drop for the distance. Is this 14 ga. wire? 40 feet of total wire from the breaker to the 6th outlet. In a modern circuit what would you expect over a similar distance? 2nd less important question. Should you have checked the continuity of the box and the neutral to see if there was a ground even though it is not code and put a ground wire in the box to the receptacle? That is more of a preference question. What I might do if I was being paid for production might be different than what I would do for myself.
Remember, this is voltage drop with 15A load on the circuit. That's a huge load, approximately like a Skilsaw at start-up. Having said that, the most downstream receptacles had a lot of Vd. regardless. Checking the continuity of the box and the neutral would be a good idea. Yes, 14ga wire and 15A circuit. If it was me wiring the house new I would use all 12ga for the receptacles, put only the farthest bedroom on one circuit. In other words I would use larger gauge wire and more 20A circuit breakers.
@@SparkyChannel Thank you. So much of electricians work is a debate about technique. If I understand various comments around the web about the 2020 code is that it keeps pushing farther toward all 12 ga, ground wire included. And that may well continue in the 2023 code as well. 12 ga. would be a lot less resistance, therefore more voltage and a LOT less potential heat in the circuit. Stranded 12 ga would be even better. But lots more cost.
I haven't seen a push-button breaker panel in quite a while. My high school gym had them in the 60's. Used them like switches. Probably made them fail frequently.
@@larrylawson5172 Excellent discussion, I love it! I went to all 12 ga years ago in my electrical planning and drafting. Keeping wires and devices as cool as possible is extremely important. Also, people will add on to your circuits whether it's legal or not so I like to plan for it. LOL on the gym breakers!
Those are called push-matic brand breakers. They were well built for their time, still a lot of them in service.
I just tried looking for the most upstream receptacle and was unsuccessful due to all the receptacle on the circuit only has 1 hot / 1 neutral wire on all 5 receptacle. None of the 5 had 2 hots / 2 neutrals, Will i have to replace all 5 with a gfci. FYI its an old house with no ground.
You could put the GFCI in the breaker.
Does that thester have a 8 Ohm resistor inside?
Or how can it test the circuit with a 15 Amp load?
Are you seriously asking that? 8 ohm load on 120 volts gives 1.8 kW.
GREAT VIDEO...but I thought you didn't need to replace all 2 prongs with all new GCFI's. Thought the (ONE) closes upstream would protect all the others down stream from it. Just trying to learn.
the pigtail approach enables you to use gfci's in all the downstream outlets. gfci's containing usb charge slots do not exist. most folks want that feature when upgrading an old two prong duplex outlet. in order to use modern duplex outlets containing usb charge slots, only use the gfci on the first outlet in the circuit while using the load side of that gfci to power the downstream usb outlets.
If you have 2 prong receptacles your wiring is probably very old. It may be a good idea to use a combination GFCI/AFCI to benefit from the added arc fault protection for safety reasons. It’s a whole lot cheaper than a rewire and updating your breaker panel.
Good one, thanks! Not everyone wants to/knows how to go into an electrical panel, or hoof it down to one if one receptacle trips ;)
Yes, I wanted to present both options. Thanks Mike!
Thank you for the video....while I can possibly try to do this task, I choose to get an electrician to do my electrical work. Reason being is I know my limits and choose not to expand my limits. Great educational content on the process.
That's excellent. You'll now know what is going on when your electrician is doing their work.
@@SparkyChannel exactly and stay safe and be good kido
Is it ok to install a GFCI that protects both lighting and down stream receptacles?
Yes, that is fine.
Wait a minute,you dont have separate outlet and lighting circuits in America? In most of Europe it was almost always separate even decades ago.
@@mernok2001 old house. Back before 1980s they used to put a lot together. Plus modifications were made where they installed lighting on the receptacle circuit which was 15A anyway.
i love that fancy pushmaic panel, anyway, one of my houses is from 1960, it is small with 2 bedrooms. but it has 2 electrical panels and 33 electrical circuits, don't know why that many circuits for such a small house. it also has an FPE panel, so that is fun.
Hi Sparky. The electrician who did my last home which was a semicustom build told me he pigtails the neutrals but passes through the hots to help with debugging fauts. What do you think of this approach and does it meet current code?
I think that's a good idea. Code does not mandate pigtailing.
My house has (3) two prog receptacles in a room. Can I install a GFCI receptacle in the home run box and wire the home run on the line side and the branch circuit on the load side? If I install a ground pigtail in back off the box, will that fix the “open ground”? Then install the next receptacles with GFCI and wire them on line side?
Do not try to improvise anything with the ground.The open ground is not something that needs to be fixed. Marking the socket with the text "No equipment ground" tells that the ground is open.
Remember the ground wire can carry electricity both ways so do not connect it to anything where it should not be connected.
Does Code allow the Outlet Neutral to be down or does it need to be up for Code?
I love these videos, I've learned more then I ever could have imagined.
In general, I get a bit tired of some safety redundancies (not that I would disregard them), and I'm surprised electrical videos aren't loaded with comments about lock-out tag-out procedures.
However, would it be good practice to check both outlets on a receptical for power in case someone tried to do a half switched receptical....especially in situations where the outlets maybe be the victims of pre-youtube DIY work....or would that just be unnecessary redundancy?
Thanks! That is an excellent idea. The safer, the better.
What is the problem with old ground wires that they dont meet code now?Are they thinnes than the live and neutral wires?
They are too thin (16 gauge) and run bare in the walls.
@@SparkyChannel Is it allowed to run bare ground wire in conduit?Many electricians have different opinions about that.
Yo just leaving another comment to help out, thanks :)
Thanks!
Dont they have to be tamper resist as well , will the other outlets downstream be gfci protected as well ?
Maybe I missed it in the video but why not just install one gfci on the first receptacle to protect them all down stream?
That would be totally fine. Here's my video on that: 2 Prong Receptacle Circuit Replaced by GFCI and Grounded Receptacles per 2020 NEC: ua-cam.com/video/16KObgI44UE/v-deo.html
I wanted to give both options. I have videos for both ways. Thanks Zack!
Sparky Channel cool I thought maybe I missed a reason to go with one over the other. Keep up the good work!
Or, install a GFCI overcurrent device. It all comes down to a matter of convenience so when that GFCI trips its convenient to reset the device.
He gets to charge more that way.
If the receptacles are connected each other, would it be enough replacing only the first receptacle from the breaker with gfci and connect the next receptacle to Load of gfci?
He has another video showing how that is done.
Yes. Since there is ground this entire excercise is un necessary.
Both ways are acceptable and both ways have benefits. Having separate GFCIs ensures that no receptacle loses power based on what happens on another receptacle.
@@okaro6595 that's correct. And running them through a GFCI ensures that all downstream receptacles have at least ground fault protection. I'm not sure what method is better.
I pulled out an old electric outlet, to replace it with a GFCI.
I accidentally touched some part of the old outlet while removing it on the metal box, and saw a small spark. (I thought the fuse was out, but maybe I had the wrong fuse out).
Now, I am reading 14 volts from hot to neutral, and from hot to the metal box(ground). I've pulled every fuse in the panel, and still see 14 volts!
Note, the outlet was working fine before my accident (although the hot/neutral were reversed).
What did I do break when that old receptacle sparked? Did I burn/short a wire, or junction? How do I find the problem. I cannot use continuity tests since I have 14 volts present. Help!
Do not do your own electrical work!
It sounds like there could be a device or appliance on that circuit that may be backfeeding via capacitors. For example, a dishwasher since those have starter capacitors for the sump.
You shouldn't be doing electrical work.
@@havox112 So, do you know the answer to my question?
Hey Bill what is the range on the Klein receiver in this video?
Here in California, I had to have arc fault breakers installed for the outlets without ground wires. That panel is the weak safety link in case of lightning
Yup, the code has changed to the point GFCI & AFCI are required everywhere, Lol. In older homes with ungrounded systems it’s worth the panel change out. But not everybody can afford it. Or the rehire.
Question: can a single GFCI receptacle be used to protect all other down-stream receptacles? Is yes, should the GFCI receptacle be connected in series rather than parallel?
He has a video on this I believe.
What difference does the no equipment ground make? People will still plug in anything that requires a ground if they see its 3 prong.
That's true often enough. But it's important to give them the warning and it's code to use the stickers.
Ground is for safety of the user. The GFCI is for the same. I some aspects the GFCI is actually better. For example if there is damaged cord where the live i exposed and you touch it. Grounding does nothing to protect you. I have not seen an equipment that needs ground - or maybe a computer UPS is one.
The no equipment ground helps anyone inspecting it. He will not treat lack of ground as a fault.
@@okaro6595 the ground does help. If the appliance is metal. And becomes love due to breakdown of insolation inside or some other fault. As long as the metal is grounded which all class I appliances are the fuse will blow and or GFCI/RCD will trip. Where as with just a GFCI/RCD you’re replying on the user to touch it to then trip by the used then providing a path to ground. Ideally they should be used together.
What do you do when you have a light switch connected to 1 of the receptacles and the other has constant power? I can't find a GFCI that allows for a connection like this.
I see three choices. Make the entire outlet a switched outlet. Make the entire outlet, a non-switched outlet. Expand the box, and put in a second outlet, and make one switched. For as simple as switched outlets are, they tend to create drama. A dumb friend, literally called an electrician, when half the outlet was not working. The electrician turned on the switch. (lol).
I fished a grounding wire to the receptacles. Found this to be the easiest solution. Wasn't the cheapest or fastest, but luckily I had good attic access and it all worked out.
13.5% seems like a pretty high voltage drop. Maybe you could do a video discussing voltage drop. (NEC recommendations, sources of voltage drop, effects of voltage drop) This video got me thinking about a similar situation I have with a string of 8 receptacles connected by a raceway. I don't have the fancy circuit analyzer, but with a 15 Amp (1875 watt) hairdryer on max heat, I only get a 4.7% voltage drop on the last (8th) receptacle, which I think is acceptable.
Hi Mark! The Vd readings were with a 15A load which is very different from just measuring the Vd of the wire itself. Also, it's original 1960 wiring. Thanks!
@@SparkyChannel good point. In both my reading and yours,Vd includes the voltage drop all the way back to the transformer. But doesn't the NEC want the total Vd including the service drop to be less than 5%?
I love this video. i cant afford for now the tools but i have the basics from school.
Sounds good Angel!
Great video, thank you. One question: If you plug in an extension cord to the GFCI receptacle, does that mean that whatever you connect to it, is ground protected? Or a power strip; is it ground safe?
If the GFCI is grounded, and you plug a power strip which has a ground plug (3 prong), the power strip should be grounded.
Everything you plug is of course protected. Why would you think an extension cord would somehow remove the protection? Ground safe? I do not know the meaning of that term.
Now I would not take the extension cord to outside especially if there were actual grounded outlets there.
Amazing! this is something I needed to learn! thank you very much
No problem, thanks!
What would happen if you connected all 4 wires to the receptacle?
One more thing if I may please. So if I switch out to the GFCI and there is no ground, then my electronics will not be safe from a surge using the GCFI. But, if I installed a ground then the outlet would trip, shut off and my electronic device will be saved. For the most part???
Thank you!
GFCI has absolutely nothing to do with surge protection. Surge protectors connect all the three lines with varistors. They work better with ground but should also work without.
If installed correctly the (GFCI's) main function is to operate as a circuit breaker. The first step is finding the lead receptacle by either monitoring them all and finding the receptacle with the lowest voltage drop OR by pulling all the receptacles out of the wall and testing which wires are hot and which ones that aren't. Lets say you got 4 outlet/receptacles on the same line or you think they're on the same line and you can't test for voltage drop likecthe dude in the video. The way you find out which one is the lead outlet is by first turning off all the power. Disconnect all the wiring from the outlets/ receptacles making sure to keeping the wires spaced out from each other and then turning the power back on. Then using your voltage tester, there should be only one outlet on that line getting power/juice from the panel the other outlets should test out as dead or no power. If another outlet/receptacle does show power then its obviuosly on a different circuit wire. If only one outlet wire has power then that's your lead circuit/outlet. Long story short. If installed correctly or in similar fashion as the guy in the tutorial your lead receptacle that's been replaced by the GFCI becomes a circuit breaker so to speak. Therefore protecting all other outlets down the line and also your stereo/tv equipment if its connected to the GFCI or to one of the other receptacles on that line if anything goes wrong/haywire. Just like one of the circuit breakers in your electrical panel the GFCI Monitors electrical current going to and from it. If there's an electrical surge or too much power on that line the GFCI will shut itself off along with everything else on its line
@@donniematonnie9378 - Thanks for this tip.
@@manny7886 .........I'm glad I could be of some assistance. Even though your electrical equipment is now protected, don't forget to put the "no ground" stickers or lables on those GFCI receptacles.
@@donniematonnie9378 great comment! I had a quick question. Once I find head of circuit & gcfi it, can I just install regular 3 prong on the rest of the 2 prong outlets?
Hey sparky you should come out with a DVD like mike holts showing and teaching just as you are.
Sounds good, thanks!
Thank you for the wonderful video!
Thanks so much!
Thanks for another excellent video!👍👍
Just keep in mind that per 210.12 there are now very few places where a replacement of an ungrounded receptacle would not require both AFCI and GFCI protection. A dual AFCI/GFCI outlet is slightly larger and costs about $26
Yup the Code had changed quite a bit,Lol.
Your local inspector is super OCD lol. Thanks for these videos.
Thanks, now I know how to change a 2 board circuit! 👍
Sounds good to me! 👍
Very nice explanation about the voltage drops, nice tools
Glad it was helpful!
Hi. U mentioned something I hadn’t heard before so wanted to ask…you said I used a gfci on the one and then on the rest on the circuit juat “grounding receptacles”. I though a grounding receptacle was a gfci. Could you clarify the difference. Obviously I’m a DIY newbie. Sorry for the dumb question.
It just means a receptacle with a ground terminal.
The assumption that any receptacle which isn't powered after shutting off the breaker at the main panel must belong to the same circuit is not necessarily true. An unpowered receptacle may not be receiving power for a number of reasons and may not be on the circuit that was turned off. The question that is required for accuracy is: were all of the receptacles powered before the breaker was turned off? This is obvious but for those DIYers new to doing electrical work it is necessary to always check for power and not assume that if a receptacle isn't working there isn't power being delivered to the wall box.
Thanks have watched both videos my question is only have two wires at the first box but there are 7 boxes so do I do all with GFCI or can only work?
What if you wire the GFCIs traditionally with both line and lead throughout the circuit? Any issues? Great video, liked and subscribed.
Hi Sparky, love your channel. HOwever I do not agree with your and your inspectors interpretation of the code regarding grounding, since this is a preexisting circuit that was approved under the NEC/local code(s) effective at that time. While you are replacing the devices, you are not rewiring that circuit, or the house. If that was the case, then you must meet the current NEC code requirements for wiring and grounding.
Thanks Bill. Great job!
Thanks so much Holt!
Great video very helpful 👍 thanks for your work.
My pleasure!
Why are the grounding pigtails they sell online green? Every video I've seen says they are bare copper. Are the green ones for special purposes or a new code or for country's other than the U.S?
Green is the color insulation that you use on grounding wires. Grounds are often left bare but sometimes they are insulated. Green=ground
@@TheIceCreamMan1990 Yes that is the difference between ground wire in Romex vs. pulling in separate conductors.
Yo Sparky.....great vid....big Q : if I have an electrician install gfi breakers in the MAIN panel...that be a groovy method ....? Thanks for your reply ahead of time.
Great Video, Thanks for making it.
What camera are you using to record the video?
I ask as some cameras let you set hz to 50 or 60 if camera has feature it would make the shots of your analyzer more clear and less pulsing.
I was using a GH5 at 30 fps. I think 60 fps would have the same problem. Perhaps 24 fps would make the shots of my analyzer more clear and less pulsing? Any advise?
Hello sparky
So your saying I have to change every 2 prong outlets to gfci?
Or can I use 1 gfci to protect others 2 prongs?
As long as the outlets are GFCI protected and marked so that you immediately know it and that there is no equipment ground the details do not matter. The GFCI can be upstream or in the panel.
Is that receptacle good for 220v
No, it is a 120 V receptacle. GFCI outlets cannot be used with wrong voltages as the test button would work incorrectly. In the US there are different voltages for 240 V. In a different country use receptacles designed for that country.
@@okaro6595 so what receptacle is good for 240v
@@vincentpereira8416 If you're talking of US biphase current you should use a NEMA 6 if you don't have a neutral and a NEMA 14 if you have it (of both there are various variants according to the amperage you'll need).
If you're not in the US and you're talking of monophase 240V you should use the one of your contry
Bill, I'm not an electrician--but I've studied the hell out of it. I thought a "string" of outlets" only gets one GFCI for the string.
You can do it that way.
@@SparkyChannel Bill, did you choose not to string the other receptacles off the upstream GFCI receptacle because this will be a rental home? This way, it is more simple for the renters to maybe reset the GFCI themselves and not lose food in the fridge waiting for the landlord to come over and restore the power?
NICE VIDEO SPARKY. THANKS FOR SHARING IT. SALUDOS FROM CLIFTON N.J,
Saludos from San Diego!!!
Thanks, but what application should be avoided, I.e. “no equipment ground “
Why use more expensive gfci terminals after using the lead gfci?
That way if the first GFCI receptacle trips, the rest of the circuit is still live. Sometimes that is an advantage.
@@SparkyChannel if the first gfci trips, doesn’t that stop all outlets down the line,gfci or not? Isn’t that the purpose them?
@@jeffcaptain6738 Notice that he didn't hook any wiring to the load side of the GFCI's, ie; running in series. Instead, he ran a continuous hot and neutral to each box, and pigtailed them individually to the line side, thus running in parallel.
Why knock out a whole circuit, when you can just take out the one outlet that had a fault? Much easier to diagnose a problem.
In the video description, he leaves a link for how to connect a string of regular duplexes in series, with 1 GFCI as the first one on the circuit.
I hate the old boxes in my home. They are so small I can never get the outlet to be flush. It sticks out on the right side further the the left :(
I'm with you. I hate small boxes. :)
Mine do that too. And the boxes are 5/8” behind the drywall. No mud rings.
Awesome video and good information.
Thanks so much!
Why are the lights on the transmitter flashing?
leds flash imperceptibly to our eyes. the camera he was using must have had a frame capture rate that made it perceptible.
If you want a better explaination google "filming a tv screen." And good question.
It's winking because it likes YOU. 😍
15:32 It appears, which I could be wrong, but the wiring in the house is 12AWG, and it seems that your adding 14AWG pigtails for the outlet? Good video, keep up the good work.
I believe it was the other way around, 14AWG wire and 12AWG pigtails. Thanks!
Ten foot tap rule? Granted I always use the same size conductor when I pigtail but then again its no different then using a 15amp receptacle as a splice on a 20amp circuit.
Thanks for the great video!!!
Thanks so much Ted!
For me, I bought grounding pigtails and installed it on the metal box.
Excellent!
About to do this in my 1965 house. I wish I could validate spending the big bucks on that analyzer lol.
I'll just have to do it the hard way. find the outlet with 2 sets of wire and only one side hot with the breaker on lol.
Thanks man. Saved me a lot of hassle with this vid!
I'm not an electrician. I've learned a good bit from them and some while doing HVAC. I do enjoy doing electrical work.
Now...the big boy 3 phase stuff like 480v and up? I'll pass lol.
Would a mutimeter give me a stronger reading the closer upstream I get to the main outlet and could I just use that reading to indicate the closest outlet or main outlet to install a GFCI.
Good video!!
Thanks!
Hello and thanks for the video. Most outlets in this house I just bought are two prong. But how can I determine the most upstream without a fancy gadget?
Disconnect all receptacles and the Circuit Breaker wires. Continuity test each set to trace them to your feeder. By far faster to replace the CB with a combo afci/GFCI Breaker. More time trying to find and replace the first receptacle with a GFCI receptacle and go down the line to replace the non grounded to a grounded receptacle.
@@smartcookie3500 True, sort of. But for a weekend warrior, far less intimidating to put in a GFCI receptacle than to muck around inside a service panel, and besides, if the problem is that all the existing outlets are 2 prong and need to be replaced with grounding type three prong devices, no time is wasted in disconnecting every receptacle. If the job is going to be done in the workmanlike manner Sparky Bill suggests, then doing one circuit at a time, and putting WAGOs on every wire eliminates the continuity testing you suggest. You can do the whole job with a cheap breaker finder and an equally cheap non contact voltage tester. Identify every device on the circuit, shut down the circuit. Remove every device and wire nut every wire. Re-energise the circuit, test with the non-contact tester. Only the first receptacle on the circuit will light the tester. Shut off the breaker again and install the GFCI there. Install the rest of the receptacles. Re energise the circuit, test, install the cover plates and lables...done.
Excellent video. I have 40 receptacles in my house . So I would have to have this done on all the receptacles for them to be protected? $1200 oof
360 on amazon - pack of ten gfci for 90 x 4 = 360
No!
GFCI receptacle only needs to be used as the 1st in a series, if wired correctly.
Use the Line (in) connection for power to the GFCI, and Load (out) connection to power the following receptacles down the series.
Here is a better video for that.
ua-cam.com/video/7aHeRgpfQhE/v-deo.html
Great job.
Thanks Charlie!
I still think 13.5% Vd is a lot. In your other video you even say it "should" be less than 5%. You probably don't want to run your table saw on the receptacle at the end of that line. After this video, I have measured the 15A Vd of all 68 receptacles in my house. Knowing what I know now, I would want to make sure at least #12 wire is used in long runs, even for 15 Amp circuits. And route wires in a way to minimize the wire length. My highest Vd is 8.2% in a recent addition. The electrician did a very neat job, but I think he should have known how to calculate Vd based on wire length. Wire is not that expensive relative to the total cost.
You know, people that switch a receptacle in a room should be required to mark a receptacle per 406.3(E) I don't know how many times I've showed up in a resident and there are switch controlled outlets that the owner had no idea were switched when they bought the home, and they are like, sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't lol. It's a little more obvious if they switched the top receptacle and the bottom is always hot. It could be a bad switch. I guess it could be the plug but unless it's really old, chances are it's a bad switch. I've seen bathroom plugs in one house in a more expensive part of the neighborhood lose power and it took about 30 minutes to figure out it was a GFCI in the hall outside of the bathroom that controlled it, lol. I've seen newer expensive homes somehow get away with a GFCI being hidden in one of the tall cabinets of the bathroom. Some of the craziest things that you run into when you show up to figure out why they lost power, or older bigger homes that have partial voltage at receptacles in multiple rooms, and you're trying to find where the receptacle is, that is stabbed, that lost the connection. People remodel and the guy doing the wiring is randomly throwing a receptacle here and there in different rooms from the same branch circuit lol.
Yes, that’s why many electricians will put the switched outlet with the ground up to ID the switched outlet. And the Code is silent on outlets being ground up or down. Which is an entirely a different debate. And about GFCI s. That is why I changed to using the much more expensive GFCI breaker type, easier to trouble shoot.
@@stevelopez372 that's not true! Putting the ground prong up is a safety feature to keep anything from grounding across the Neutral and Hot if a plug comes out part way. I know this for a fact. It's done in many place for a safety feature!!!!!!!!!!!!11111
Excellent work
Thanks Aaron!
So what was the difference of the 2 outlets that didn't show ground compared to the other 4 that did?
the grounding
Bravo, good SIR
Thank you for sharing
Great information but can you just install a AFCI/GFCI breaker
I'm making you a video answer.
everyone should subscribe to you
Thanks Brock!
Nice neat job Wild Bill ... I take a little gal Shop-vac with me to a job cause I can't stand a dirty work area ... Good vid ...
Thanks Eddy! 👍 The small cordless Shop-Vacs are great!
Great vid
Thanks Dave. Sorry about the audio goof on the original version.
Very helpful
Glad you think so, thanks!
Why pig tail, and not just use load outlets?
You can if you like.
If Im doing a whole house top off, I make up pigtials because its faster.
now I have one of those circuit tracers, and every time I used mine, I had to make 3, 4 and 5 passes over it to get it to stop giving false chirps, Bill. I think you rushed that and already knew which one it was lol because the bottom left breaker chirped at you just before going to the top of the second row and coming down. I know how that thing works, and you have to make several passes over it for it to learn what signal not to sound of at. oh, and they make a light socket plug to use with that and a plug with alligator clips in case you are doing a remodel job and there are no light fixtures in and you want to find the breaker without guessing or you don't have anyone to flip breakers for you.
Ah push-o-matic! Fancy. Lol
LOL!