Connecting your hooklink to your mainline swivel might seem like a trivial detail but depending on what rig you use, some methods are much better suited than others. Anti tangle sleeves, tungsten sinkers and putty are often mistaken as magic “cures” for hooklink loop-up but nothing could be further from the truth. You can’t always just chuck more bits at the problem to solve it. The simplest methods can be the best. I’ve caught loads of big carp using nothing more than 20lb mono directly tied to a swivel. There are too many variables to demonstrate the number of ways that things can go wrong but hopefully this overview will show why hooklink loop up is a problem and can cost you chances. The only way to truly know if your rigs work well is to test them in a bucket.
Hi Matthew, In your videos I keep seeing you often talk about sharpening your hooks. But the hooks that come of the shelf like FUDO, Mustad, Fox etc, are so sharp that even if they slightly touch my finger they pierce instantly. The steel they are made of is of so high quality that I can never sharpen them as good as they come from the manufacturer. Every time I go out fishing I get stung accidentally a couple of times. I don't remember ever getting to a point when I noticed them not being sharp enough, in fact, chances are that I will loose the hook in the lake first. So my question here is, what is so special about those hooks that you use, so that you want to sharpen them yourself?
@@Spirit986 your right hooks from nash don't need sharpening at all but after you have had 2 fish on a hook it blunts the hook bug time mat sharpens hooks because it's what he has done for many years when hooks were crap from tackle manufacturers I watch a video the other day from Elliott who used to work for korda the hooks he sharpens have a edge on like a knife its just a joke hooks like that that can move around just cutting thw mouth to bits
@@Spirit986 Hi mate, that’s a good question and one I haven’t answered properly yet. Yes, as you’ve said, many hooks will pierce the skin straight out the packet and will feel like they are sharp and in some cases, they may be good enough to catch. But… If you’re fishing for carp with hard mouths or fishing a lake with very wily carp, most straight out of the packet hooks will not be good enough. That’s what I’ve found in my 10 years here running Beausoleil. The best way to find out if the hooks you’re using are really sharp is to put them under an eyeglass. Here are some examples of hook points under an eyeglass from another video I made: ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.html So for a number of years, I used the Korda Wide gape X and because the hook points were not perfect under the eyeglass, I used to hand sharpen every one and catch no problem. What I found with our Beausoleil guests is that some anglers can make the hooks worse by hand sharpening them wrongly and it’s a technique that takes a lot of practice to get right. A couple of years ago, after much trial and error, I found my “perfect” hooks and that’s the Nash pin-point range. They are the sharpest hooks “straight out of the packet” that I’ve ever used. I still check them one by one, and I just give a little lick of the hone if they’re not perfect. I also re-sharpen them to get more life out of them. So, what I’m saying is that I hand sharpen my hooks when they’re not perfect out of the packet after inspecting them with an eyeglass and that’s to make sure that the hook will pierce the skin with virtual zero resistance, which will minimise the risk of hook pulls. Cheers, Matt
Another fantastic, informative video heavy on detailed examples explained in a clear and concise way. I’m particularly paranoid about this particular presentation issue so this was gold for me! Well done Matt, and thank you 🙏🎣🔝
Matthew just back into fishing after a 40year break Love your mono hair rig to a swivel ……..works a treat in conjunction with a float lift bite method Simple set up but great fun !!!
Great to hear mate! Cool, proper old school combo that, used to love fishing the lift float, great idea to give it a modern twist and use a mono hair rig rather than sidehooking the corn which is what I used to do 😃
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. The bottom line is that you need to do your own testing to see how your rigs sit. A good bit of mono tied in the right way sits really nice (much better than stripped back coated braid that everyone fishes with 😜). Cheers, Matt.
When I’m fishing a longer hook link I use a twisle loop to create a boom section to avoid tangles and allow the rig to reset, maybe it’s overkill but gives me confidence especially when I know there are lots of bream roach around moving the rig , pinched the idea from Steve Ringer who uses it when he’s feeder fishing , have tested it and rig resets time after time . Can be combined with other solutions .
@@matthewcollinsangler here’s an example no commentary but great visual ,tie yout rig as normal , but leave a longer hook length than usual with around 80mm more length than you need , tie figure 8 overhand knot then the twist or twizzle is achieved by turning the line inwards from either side .Rotating one clockwise and the other counter clockwise turning them toward the inside until you have a length around 40mm , Then instead of the swivel you just tie an overhand figure eight knot leaving one small tag with the other going to your rig . Works with mono or coated braid . Creates a strong boom action and can be used with anti tangle or tungsten tube , ua-cam.com/video/Mnld_IEsqrA/v-deo.html
Really, well done vids. Y’all’s carp skill over there is passed thru the screen with your editing and shot quality. What a storyteller….modern day medicine man and hunter mixed in one 🟢
Just rewatched this and ran some tests myself. What an eye opener!! I have totally lost faith in using foam nuggets as they definitely will increase the chance of your hooklink not sitting right. Unless you're using something pretty stiff like an amnesia boom. You'll definitely get a better flat presentation with a stick and hitting the clip. Pop up rigs not so much. Thanks matt
@@matthewcollinsangler 100 percent, having the rig suspended over the lead with foam even with semi stiff, anti tangle sleeve and putty in middle still could guarantee a poor landing. Especially if fishing straight bottom baits or even worse a double. Mesh bags it is for me from now on
Feathering the cast will push the bait out as the lead and bait land but the bait will still follow the lead down through the water directly above (or near as dam) it! If you used a deeper test tank you'd probably get a bigger separation of bait and lead, especially with mono or coated braids.
I agree. Hitting the clip doesn't kick the bait past the lead. As the lead pulls the bait to the bottom in the water slip stream and will trail/tail the boilie directly behind it. Lead hits bottom shortly followed by the bait right on top of it.
@@Gareth04100 When fishing deeper water yes absolutely. That’s why it’s so important to get the rig mechanics right so that it pancakes flat no matter what. In shallow water I use a technique whereby I hit the clip just above the surface of the water with a flat rod. As I hit the clip I’m already raising the rod and I literally fly the rig (through the water) back towards me. This way it’s travelling at an angle rather than falling straight. This helps lay the rig out flat and it was this that I was thinking out when I talked about how hitting the clip can throw the bait forward away from the lead.
Hello Matthew, Would it be possible to do a video on crimping? There are a lot of manufacturers selling crimps and pliers at the moment. It would be helpful to know what materials should be crimped or be avoided.
Hi Warren, thanks very much for the idea! TBH I’ve never used a crimp in my life and from what I’ve seen of customers that use crimps, I’m not exactly racing to the shops to invest! It’s very easy to get crimping wrong and if you don’t test the crimp properly (with a deadlift test) you are playing with fire. I know some guys really struggle with knots but there are some really good options for you that don’t involve crimping. Why not check out these two videos where you’ll learn how useful a simple overhand loop knot can be: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/ekdkM52dSq8/v-deo.html. Best of luck, Cheers, Matt.
@@darrenfox1879 Wow, well that’s great mate! Congrats on carp no. 2! That’s a proper chunk. I do love big apple slice scales. Must be a real buzz to catch there 👊
Interesting video Matt mate with excellent demonstrations to show. Ive been opting a lot for fluorocarbon rigs myself for exactly reasons you stated and its been working really well at my local syndicate. Bait presented well all the time 👍🎣
@@pjlcarpexpeditions Good to know! This year I’ve used a lot of Nash Zig-Flo 12lbs (0.30) for hooklink and caught carp to 50+. It’s great value and really strong.
@@matthewcollinsangler thats great cheers mate i shall check it out for some rigs. Hoping to look and booking some a week at your lake at some point with my girl friend. Have wanted to go for ages.
@@pjlcarpexpeditions Cool, great to hear mate 😊 Let me know if you ever want to plan a trip. Virtually fully booked for next year but plenty of choices for 2024 😉
Another good video Matt 👍 I've always gone for a rig laying flat rather than trying to camouflage it.With all the bits of weed ,twigs etc I don't believe colour of braid is important,as you say it's a lot more important the rig is pinned flat
Hi Darren, thanks as always for your support. Glad that you’re with me on that one. All the best for your Church session! Keep us posted 😜 Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Hi Matt cheers pal.keep up the video's there really good.Were off Friday to church pool.nashy is coming for a drink and we'll be seeing Alan and the other guy's. I'll be mentioning what a good ambassador you are for Nash 💪
Ah right cool! Wow, that’s awesome mate. It’s really nice to know that you like what we do. I’d be very surprised if they knew who I was! We only chat to Henry and Will. We didn't set out with sponsorship as the end goal but it’s an honour to represent one of the top brands for sure. We'll continue to share knowledge and hopefully help a few anglers along the way 😊
Back as always my friend. I had an interesting observation I wanted to pass by you. So we've just had a very large amount of rain and the lake is up a few feet actually. I went out for a quick morning session at a swim I've been frequenting. So what I'd noticed is there was an exceptional amount of brasching/basching. More than any other time in months for the time of day. Yet not a single bite. What I'm assuming is the storm and run in to the lake brought a lot of silt and debris into the water column so they were just continually clearing their gills? Have you ever experienced something like this? And is there any real way to differentiate between say them hitting insect top water and clearing gills?
Hello sir. Carp love the scent of fresh water or different water. They are driven to explore it, follow it and harvest what food they can from it. We’ve had big carp jump over our upstream weir during a short period of flooding and get trapped in a tiny inlet stream! I would suggest that the new rain falls has stirred up lots of food that is in suspension and they are simply harvesting that. Very difficult to catch them in these conditions because they are preoccupied with feeding in the mid layers, not on the bottom. As usual, timing is everything. Give them a few days and it will be a different story as long as the oxygen levels haven't been affected too badly. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Mathew. I had a quick question about fishing single hook baits. I fish a venue where the fish are under no pressure and I feel that my success is entirely dependent on having baited my area over a good period of time. But I'm interested in fishing single baits with no freebies. Do you have any experience with something like this?
Hi mate, yes absolutely. I fish a 500h venue from the shore (days only and no boat) My go-to approach is to use heavy glugged single hookbaits cast as far as humanly possible. No freebies, no PVA mesh, nothing. Just a single hookbait cast out into the abyss. They don’t even show so all I have to go is the wind direction. As long as I’m facing into the wind then I’m in with a shout. I have to recast every 4 hrs because the poisson chat will turn a 24mm rock hard hookbait into a pea like blob in no time at all. It takes courage and commitment and a serious amount of confidence but it does work and I’ve had some cracking fish from there up to 20kg. It goes without saying that your whole approach has to be rock solid. I use a mega simple rig for this work so check this link out: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html Hope that inspires you to give it a go. Cheers, Matt.
If I have moving canal water in the desert👉⁉️Would you suggest get it to lay completely down as best as I can with water that’s always moving??? Split shot close to my hair rig hook, maybe? Tight line or no? 20 foot wide, 5-7ft deep. Any tips would be swell. Thx boys🪄🎣
Hi Mathew, I’m a little confused about whether to use a small loop covered with anti tangle sleeve or just a large loop to double over a large ring swivel. Korda currently pushing Sleeves a lot for pushing bait out and resetting, which I get. But is there pros and cons for both. I’d have thought a ring swivel like mine gives the bait a lot more movement if the fish comes from behind. Also on the cast is one better for anti tangle than the other
Hi mate, for me it very much depends on the choice of hooklink material I’m using. If for example I needed to use a nice supple material like 25lbs Armourlink then I’d make a large loop at the end (just using a simple overhand knot) and then loop to loop that to a ring swivel. It’s an absolute myth that the rig has to kick away from the bait to be effective. Anglers have been dropping supple braid rigs from boats onto spots for years at my lake here and caught countless carp doing so. Watch this video for a great example of this rig: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.htmlsi=n8AGVcKDjPO60ZnH If I’m casting and I needed to use a semi stiff hooklink like 30lbs (0.50) heavy duty mono snag leader, then I’d opt for a quick change swivel with a short tungsten anti tangle sleeve pushed over the loop to hold it in place. I’m not using or relying on the anti tangle tube to kick the bait away. This is achieved by the semi stiff hooklink. Of course you can use this type of rig from a boat as well but you have to love rig tying because you are going to be doing a lot of it. I don’t worry at all about the way in which the carp approach the rig from. If the hook is sharp enough then you stand an excellent chance of a run. Hope that helps, cheers, Matt.
Hi Matt . I've been using 15lb mainline with a 12lb hooklink on my syndicate water , with great success over the last 18 months . I've been catching carp up to 30lb with no issues whatsoever. The reason I like the weaker link is so I snap at the hook knot . Course fishing 101 I fished a new water yesterday, very snaggy with bigger fish, upper 30s and I just kept getting snapped off all day . I lost 7 fish ! . I Lost more hooks in one day , than I have in years . I decided to try out your mono rig , using 15lb main and they still snapped me off . Haha . Only this time , I snapped at the mainline knot , loosing everything. That's unacceptable for me , as its bad for the environment, and there's now a fish with a hook link and swivel stuck in it's gob . That bothers me a lot . My question is , if you snag or the fish snaps you , using your 15lb mono rig. How do you ensure snapping at the hook knot ? Is it possible to tie a weak link in somehow, for example different strength knots either side of the swivel ? Hope this sense . Thanks Matt .
Hi David, OK, here are some thoughts. This year I’ve been testing the Nash NXT Zig-Flo in 12lbs and I've had loads or 30s, 40s and even 50s so there’s absolutely no reason why you can’t use a good quality 12lb mono hook for big carp. If you’re banking 30s on 12lb hooklink then there can’t be much wrong with your knots but only you know how strong they are. I test every single knot. I bust plenty but then again I never get snapped up on a fish (unless it’s a massive catfish lol.) What has made a big difference is the nature of the lake you are fishing. It’s obviously rather snaggy and 12lb or 15lb mono won’t cut the mustard. I think you are being cut off rather than suffering knot failures but only a dead lift test of your setup will really tell you what’s going on. Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/RjdQV2U-_cc/v-deo.html So my heavy duty snag fishing setup looks like this: 20lb Nash Bullet mainline (which is as tough as XXXX on its own). Then I add 10m of Nash Heavy Duty Snag Leader 40lbs (0.60) For hooklink I use Nash Skinlink 35lb which has a Kevlar core and is uber tough. I use multi rigs and swap the hooks as the Skinlink is not cheap. The leader goes straight down to a standard lead clip. These dump the lead on the take every time. If it’s weedy I’d use the weed version. I always use barbless hooks so the carp can rid itself of the hook in seconds if anything goes wrong. It’s the safest way to fish IMO. The whole setup is designed for ultimate strength and is very hard to break but this also makes it very safe. Hope that gives you food for thought ☺️ Cheers, Matt. (If you ever want to support the channel further, any purchases done on Amazon through this link will give us a small commission, price to you is the same: ttps://amzn.to/3TbvnaF 👍)
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt. I appreciate your advice. I don't think where I'm fishing warrants such heavy duty stuff. That's a lot of stuff to loose if you do have to snap off , which everyone does occasionally, and in my mind the weakest section in that set up is the carps mouth . I'm militant about weaker hooklinks in all of my angling . I see carp anglers using such rigs all the time and I rarely see a fish that isn't torn . Carp care kits on stand by rings alarm ., For a professional like you it may be a different story , but average Joe angler those rigs are insane . I think I just need to beef up to 18lb mainline, and 15lb hook links ensuring the weak point is by the hook still. Thanks mate 👍
If i were to want to use boom line on my running rig could i just tie my rig with it normally? I keep hearing that crimping is the end all be all with that line but is it really that important ?
Hi, I don’t use booms or crimps and I never will so I’m probably not the best person to ask! I test all anglers’ setups at my lake and I’ve bust plenty of crimp connections over the years. I’m sure they can be done well but most anglers don’t actually test the finished result and just assume that it’s a strong connection. IMO you are better off mastering how to tie simple strong knots and rigs as they are all you need to be successful. Best of luck, Matt.
Hi mate, sure no problem. I’ve got a few that I use. I’ve had a pair of Drennan Super Specialist Telescopic landing net handles for years and they did me good service. I have one head from Fox that you can’t even buy anymore. The other head is a Terry Hearn ESP 44”. I was disappointed in the ESP because the landing net handle broke on a carp and I had to pair the arms onto an old Fox Spreader block and go back to the Drennan pole. The latest addition to my arsenal has been the Nash Dwarf Landing net and pole. I see a lot of gear and some of it isn't great at the lower end but the Nash Dwarf range continues to surprise me. The pole and net are excellent. Better than most landing nets at double the money. Here’s an affiliate link for the item: amzn.to/3RhoeUm. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks for the reply, will definitely check that link out , I find I have problems finding a decent handle that can cope with big carp, and be reasonably lightweight and strong, once again thanks for the great advice it's very much appreciated thank you.
@@Speedy_65 Hi mate, totally understand. I’ve seen some customer nets that are floppy, shallow and quite useless TBH. I’ve only had the Nash Dwarf net for a month but it’s already been slipped under some angry 30s, 40s and a 50. As far as I’m concerned it’s absolutely fit for big carp fishing and is a nice balance between light weight, stiff and strong. It’s not as hefty as my old Drennan Super Specialist poles but then again it doesn’t weigh as much either. (btw the link is an affiliate link to an Amazon page, same price to you but a small commission for me to help support the channel ☺ All our video descriptions now show links to the tackle/gear I use) Cheers, Matt.
Hi Gary, can’t easily answer that question, too many variables. What I suggest is to mount the bait you want to use on the rig, drop it in a bucket of water ½ dozen times. If the hooklink loops up, then change the way you connect the hooklink or as you say add an anti tangle sleeve and re-test until you get a consistent result. Once you’re happy, re-test with your pva bag. Hope that helps, Matt.
Hi Ryan, I used to use foam all the time then one day I ran out and now I don’t bother. I don’t think it makes a difference in my fishing. There are some situations where using foam would help but I don’t think it’s essential. Cheers, Matt
Hey man! I wanted to ask what rig would you use for rivers with a fast/strong current? South Africa has many rivers with heavy current and it's often hard to find a way to effectively bait up and choose a rig, any advice?
I’d go with a robust mono rig made with some 0.50m min leader material. Combine that with a super shark hook with an out turned eye tied up as a d rig. This short video will give you an idea: ua-cam.com/users/shortsCh032Nsihcc?feature=share. There’ll be a full video on it at some point. Hope that helps! Cheers, Matt
I recently caught a carp with a damaged mouth on one side. Unfortunately, my hook has settled right there. Do such injuries occur when playing or tearing off the wrong lead clip? Does an injury actually heal? Can you help the animal? Not nice. Thank you for your help
Hi Rolf, in my experience, it’s unlikely that you caused this injury. I suspect the tear was done when the carp was temporarily tethered by a lost rig and the carp was forced to rip its mouth to free itself. You just happened to catch it in the same place. You’re right, it’s not nice and you’re right to be concerned. The best thing to do is to use a product like the Nash medicarp which sticks very well to the wound (you need to dry the wound with a cotton pad first before applying the product). You don’t need to use much product and over time the carp will heal. Cheers, Matt
Hi there, I wouldn’t do that as there’s a risk you’d damage your hook point or pull the hook into debris on the bottom which wouldn’t help your chances.
Hi Matt - need your expert opinion. Been visiting a fishery in the UK that is fished by 6 anglers daily - it is 1 acre and has 100 carp in it - I have blanked 7 times in a row and on the 7 occasions have only seen 2 people catch. Ive tried multiple rigs to no avail - however I have found out the owner feeds the fish 20kg of pellet a week. is this normal owner practice ?
Hi mate, big question, long answer 😊 So 100 carp in one acre is a high stocking density and to have six anglers on 1 acre sounds busy! We have 100 carp in 3 acre with normally just 1 to 3 anglers. Yes, it’s normal to supplement a carp’s diet with good quality feed pellets. 20kg is nothing compared to what they can eat, but six anglers can put a lot of bait in. We only add supplementary feed at certain times of year. When the temps are high and the oxygen is low we wouldn't dream of adding any feed. Here’s a guess of what may be happening where you are. If you know the average size of carp, you can calculate the total biomass. Using a supplementary feed rate (Fr) of 1% biomass (BM) per day would be at the lower end of the spectrum. This can go up to 2% at certain times of year. So say 100 carp with an average size of 8kg = 800kg BM. At 1% that’s 8kg per day or 56kg per week so 20kg per week is well below 1% Fr. The trouble is if six anglers are lobbing in 1kg each per day every day then that’s 62kg per week. That’s not enough to upset things on a normal week but if oxygen is low then things can go wrong and it will kill the fishing unless there is a serious amount of aeration. It is possible that the supplementary feed program is making the situation worse at certain times of year (during the summer) but there are other factors to consider. For more info on baiting in the summer, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/7f2yEYx0Cw0/v-deo.html I’m sure another reason why not many carp are caught is down to angling pressure. These carp are seeing a lot of rigs and have learned to deal with them. This is something I’m very familiar with. Basically everyone is getting done on a daily basis. You are getting a few bleeps right? Those are the bites! You need to go back to basics. I’d use a simple mono hair or mono rig on a basic running ledger with a light lead so as not to spook the fish. You need razor sharp hooks so that’s a size 8 Nash Chod Twister and change them every cast. Fish singles or little PVA traps. The carp will be seeing a lot of bait and will be cautious over bait. Your goal is to pick them off using one small trap and nothing else. This is the rig you need: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html. The mono D is also a great choice but don’t use the top bead: ua-cam.com/video/hoHB1gi_sQs/v-deo.html use bottom baits straight out the bag. Maybe a bit of plume juice for added attraction: ua-cam.com/video/Km35wH2V2TA/v-deo.html. Hope that gives you food for thought! Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler You are the man will take note of this - Thanks Matt. The average fish size is around 14lb - highest 30lb. Owner usually puts the aerators on once a day for a couple of hours in the morning. Really appreciate the reply - have a nice evening
Swivel, ,six inches or so of amnesia, another swivel , two or three inches of soft hook link or mono ,whatever you want really ,pop up or bottom bait ,bit of lead putty round swivel if needed for pop up .Lays flat every time ,no tangle .Still catches carp like it did in the 90’s .
Hi there, it depends how much angling pressure the carp you’re fishing for see. On an easy water, it matters less but if you fish for bigger carp, it becomes more important.
Yes I've seen carp (and barbel) spook on sight of looped up line on underwater footage. It seems to me that fish will ignore the lead but instinctively remember that line=bad.
id advice anyone to grab a £40 quid action cam, attach some stripped RG6 coaxile cable to it & your phone to hold the wifi signal and toss it in a margin with a rig on it and watch how the fish react for a while. never know, might get an underwater take while ya at it.
Hi Darren, I get where you are coming from but I’m not so sure about it. Sure you might straighten out the hooklink but the chance of you damaging the hook or impaling it on some debris is high IMO. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler I absolutely believe 100% in all of your clips, very well explained and most importantly the science adds up , however I don't like how everything naturally falls so if its not too silty I'll wind in a couple of turns just to make sure ? Some of the waters I fish are extremely difficult and have old wary fish never trip one of these up if there is anything visible and this goes for lead clips and leads too ! I've had to extend leader length to keep lead well away ! Chuck a pva bag at these fish and they will pass you laughing!! I've tried your method of fishing with bait runner tightened up and it's good at automatic hooking but I've found it good when fishing to obstacles as it slows fish instantly down instead of bolting with little resistance to slow it down.
@@darrenrichardson6803 Hi Darren, 50% of the carp population at the lake here are 30 years old and have been fished for many years so I’m familiar with the problem. Having caught hundreds of them on supple braided rigs dropped from bait boats or rowing boats, having the bait next to the lead doesn't bother me in the slightest but I do want the hooklink to be flat as if it sticks up they will feel it and can spook off. I’m not bothered about visibility as the carp can’t see a damn thing at my lake. They can feel though and that’s where I put the emphasis. Of course carp are going to spook off a cast of a solid PVA bag at first but they will return to it. I’m working on a new technique which combines a rowing boat with a bushwhacker pole. This enables me to accurately place a rig and a small amount of bait without spooking the fish. It’s a very effective method for wily carp. Glad to know that you like my tip about semi tight clutches. I use that all the time in my fishing and you’re right it’s much better to control the fish from the instant it’s hooked if other obstacles are a factor. Happy hunting, Matt.
Hi, sorry I’m not sure what you mean 🤔 This video shows how different rig connections react when you drop them from a bait boat and how small details can make a big difference to how a rig sits on the bottom. Regards, Matt.
I spotted you didn't moisten your knot, that is a school boy error especially with a blood knot.after seeing that I have no confidence in you I'm afraid to say ! 🤔
Ah yes, well spotted. This video wasn’t a detailed how-to rig video so we left all the rig tying details out otherwise it’d have been 3 times as long lol. You’re right, it’s a critical step and I show knot wetting in my rig tying videos. Good to have it mentioned here for everyone.
It's the biggest myth in carp fishing that carp spook off rigs. They have absolutely no idea what any end tackle is. It's embarrassing that anyone thinks they do. Please please stop this utter nonsense.
They see that water every day ? A loop kicked off the bottom and they will ride past with laughter? Once you have had a hook in your lip 200 times you start to tread carefully? They even recognise baits that have been in water a long time?
@@darrenrichardson6803 the bottom of a lake is constantly changing. Especially if it's weedy. Why would a loop of something they know nothing about worry them? if carp knew anything they'd get caught on a round ball once and never touch them again. There is very very little a carp can consciously do. It doesn't 'think' it just reacts to it's environment and physical state.
@@jamesharrison5004 we all have our own thinking on this ? I think they wise up with age and look and feel around baits ? There's one of them korda lead clips guys getting popular on the bottom of here" hence the box commen in linear fisheries it hadn't been out for 18months every peg is rammed every day of the the year how did that fish evade the hook for so long 🤔 baffles me a
@@darrenrichardson6803 I would say the only possible thing they could be wary of is bait. What does everyone on Linear do, empty a 10kg bucket of spod mix. Box Common probably eats more fish than you think and eats in the margins s where no one fishes.
@@jamesharrison5004 there is a line everywhere in linear! Myself and a well known old school angler did some experiments on a mouth in a bay and put 2 scoops of particles where we could see them and fish did not touch it ! Infact they swam around it didn't pass over the top of the bait ? The fish are that wise and I'm that rig conscious sad as it maybe but I'll hand plant my rig in water cover lead and leader in silt but trips them up .
the most bad advice for carp safety. If there is a crack the carp cant get rid of the rig,mainline, leader, leadetc.. many companys made carp safe leadclips, use them ffs
honestly the helle rig he showed is banned from 75% of fisheries what give a shit also so bit pointless showing a fixed-lead rig like that what most people aint allowed to use on commercials.
@@Scottymol the lead cant disconnect from the leader. Its rare it matters because the hook link rolls off the end if you get snapped off...but it's still banned on most commercials without a lead clip of sorts to ensure its not fixed like that.
@@ryankings6755 Are you referring to Heli-rig? it's just stopped by a bead which will come loose.? Maybe I'm missing something. I'm sure Matt will comment.👍
@@Scottymol I was, usually fixed hele rigs are attached to a swivel of one sort or another. The hooklinks free moving with the beads. But if the mainline snaps off fish is trailing the lot due to the fixed lead not freelancing off the run
Connecting your hooklink to your mainline swivel might seem like a trivial detail but depending on what rig you use, some methods are much better suited than others. Anti tangle sleeves, tungsten sinkers and putty are often mistaken as magic “cures” for hooklink loop-up but nothing could be further from the truth. You can’t always just chuck more bits at the problem to solve it. The simplest methods can be the best. I’ve caught loads of big carp using nothing more than 20lb mono directly tied to a swivel. There are too many variables to demonstrate the number of ways that things can go wrong but hopefully this overview will show why hooklink loop up is a problem and can cost you chances. The only way to truly know if your rigs work well is to test them in a bucket.
Why don't you use quick change swivels mate so much better than the ring swivels you don't get no flex at the lead
@@aarondavies8486 I've covered them in this section mate: ua-cam.com/video/RjdQV2U-_cc/v-deo.html 🤔
Hi Matthew,
In your videos I keep seeing you often talk about sharpening your hooks. But the hooks that come of the shelf like FUDO, Mustad, Fox etc, are so sharp that even if they slightly touch my finger they pierce instantly. The steel they are made of is of so high quality that I can never sharpen them as good as they come from the manufacturer. Every time I go out fishing I get stung accidentally a couple of times. I don't remember ever getting to a point when I noticed them not being sharp enough, in fact, chances are that I will loose the hook in the lake first.
So my question here is, what is so special about those hooks that you use, so that you want to sharpen them yourself?
@@Spirit986 your right hooks from nash don't need sharpening at all but after you have had 2 fish on a hook it blunts the hook bug time mat sharpens hooks because it's what he has done for many years when hooks were crap from tackle manufacturers I watch a video the other day from Elliott who used to work for korda the hooks he sharpens have a edge on like a knife its just a joke hooks like that that can move around just cutting thw mouth to bits
@@Spirit986 Hi mate, that’s a good question and one I haven’t answered properly yet. Yes, as you’ve said, many hooks will pierce the skin straight out the packet and will feel like they are sharp and in some cases, they may be good enough to catch.
But…
If you’re fishing for carp with hard mouths or fishing a lake with very wily carp, most straight out of the packet hooks will not be good enough. That’s what I’ve found in my 10 years here running Beausoleil. The best way to find out if the hooks you’re using are really sharp is to put them under an eyeglass. Here are some examples of hook points under an eyeglass from another video I made: ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.html
So for a number of years, I used the Korda Wide gape X and because the hook points were not perfect under the eyeglass, I used to hand sharpen every one and catch no problem. What I found with our Beausoleil guests is that some anglers can make the hooks worse by hand sharpening them wrongly and it’s a technique that takes a lot of practice to get right.
A couple of years ago, after much trial and error, I found my “perfect” hooks and that’s the Nash pin-point range. They are the sharpest hooks “straight out of the packet” that I’ve ever used. I still check them one by one, and I just give a little lick of the hone if they’re not perfect. I also re-sharpen them to get more life out of them.
So, what I’m saying is that I hand sharpen my hooks when they’re not perfect out of the packet after inspecting them with an eyeglass and that’s to make sure that the hook will pierce the skin with virtual zero resistance, which will minimise the risk of hook pulls.
Cheers, Matt
Another fantastic, informative video heavy on detailed examples explained in a clear and concise way. I’m particularly paranoid about this particular presentation issue so this was gold for me!
Well done Matt, and thank you 🙏🎣🔝
Hi mate, really glad that the video helped you. The only way to be sure is to test the rig yourself 😊
Thank you for all your tips Matthew
You’re welcome and thanks for the support 😊
Matthew just back into fishing after a 40year break
Love your mono hair rig to a swivel ……..works a treat in conjunction with a float lift bite method
Simple set up but great fun !!!
Great to hear mate! Cool, proper old school combo that, used to love fishing the lift float, great idea to give it a modern twist and use a mono hair rig rather than sidehooking the corn which is what I used to do 😃
great vid matt very informative and easy to learn from
Thanks mate, glad you liked it. The bottom line is that you need to do your own testing to see how your rigs sit. A good bit of mono tied in the right way sits really nice (much better than stripped back coated braid that everyone fishes with 😜). Cheers, Matt.
Another great video showing advice and care
Thanks very much mate 👍
When I’m fishing a longer hook link I use a twisle loop to create a boom section to avoid tangles and allow the rig to reset, maybe it’s overkill but gives me confidence especially when I know there are lots of bream roach around moving the rig , pinched the idea from Steve Ringer who uses it when he’s feeder fishing , have tested it and rig resets time after time . Can be combined with other solutions .
Never heard of it mate, sounds interesting, I'll have to look it up 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler here’s an example no commentary but great visual ,tie yout rig as normal , but leave a longer hook length than usual with around 80mm more length than you need , tie figure 8 overhand knot then the twist or twizzle is achieved by turning the line inwards from either side .Rotating one clockwise and the other counter clockwise turning them toward the inside until you have a length around 40mm , Then instead of the swivel you just tie an overhand figure eight knot leaving one small tag with the other going to your rig . Works with mono or coated braid . Creates a strong boom action and can be used with anti tangle or tungsten tube ,
ua-cam.com/video/Mnld_IEsqrA/v-deo.html
Ringer uses that a lot to great effect 👍🏻
@@hillyscfc Cool, I'm experimenting with 12lb zig flo as hook link so this could be a nice 'twist'
New sub
You are a genius 🏴☠️pirate
🌵🧀🎣
Really, well done vids. Y’all’s carp skill over there is passed thru the screen with your editing and shot quality. What a storyteller….modern day medicine man and hunter mixed in one 🟢
Just rewatched this and ran some tests myself. What an eye opener!! I have totally lost faith in using foam nuggets as they definitely will increase the chance of your hooklink not sitting right. Unless you're using something pretty stiff like an amnesia boom. You'll definitely get a better flat presentation with a stick and hitting the clip. Pop up rigs not so much. Thanks matt
Can't beat doing your own testing mate, it's the only way to understand potential issues 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler 100 percent, having the rig suspended over the lead with foam even with semi stiff, anti tangle sleeve and putty in middle still could guarantee a poor landing. Especially if fishing straight bottom baits or even worse a double. Mesh bags it is for me from now on
Feathering the cast will push the bait out as the lead and bait land but the bait will still follow the lead down through the water directly above (or near as dam) it! If you used a deeper test tank you'd probably get a bigger separation of bait and lead, especially with mono or coated braids.
Right, interesting mate, never thought about using a deeper test tank, thanks for sharing!
I agree. Hitting the clip doesn't kick the bait past the lead. As the lead pulls the bait to the bottom in the water slip stream and will trail/tail the boilie directly behind it. Lead hits bottom shortly followed by the bait right on top of it.
@@Gareth04100 When fishing deeper water yes absolutely. That’s why it’s so important to get the rig mechanics right so that it pancakes flat no matter what. In shallow water I use a technique whereby I hit the clip just above the surface of the water with a flat rod. As I hit the clip I’m already raising the rod and I literally fly the rig (through the water) back towards me. This way it’s travelling at an angle rather than falling straight. This helps lay the rig out flat and it was this that I was thinking out when I talked about how hitting the clip can throw the bait forward away from the lead.
Hello Matthew,
Would it be possible to do a video on crimping?
There are a lot of manufacturers selling crimps and pliers at the moment. It would be helpful to know what materials should be crimped or be avoided.
Hi Warren, thanks very much for the idea! TBH I’ve never used a crimp in my life and from what I’ve seen of customers that use crimps, I’m not exactly racing to the shops to invest! It’s very easy to get crimping wrong and if you don’t test the crimp properly (with a deadlift test) you are playing with fire. I know some guys really struggle with knots but there are some really good options for you that don’t involve crimping. Why not check out these two videos where you’ll learn how useful a simple overhand loop knot can be: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/ekdkM52dSq8/v-deo.html. Best of luck, Cheers, Matt.
Hi Matt just had my first church pool carp a 28,11 lb mirror with nashy by the side of me unreal experience
Wow, amazing mate, what a way to start your session!
@@matthewcollinsangler
Thanks pal hopefully will get some more,I've been telling the lads how good your channel is 🙌
@@matthewcollinsangler
Hi Matt had a 34lb 10oz mirror propper apple scales dark fish wow
@@darrenfox1879 Thanks every so much mate 🙏
@@darrenfox1879 Wow, well that’s great mate! Congrats on carp no. 2! That’s a proper chunk. I do love big apple slice scales. Must be a real buzz to catch there 👊
Interesting video Matt mate with excellent demonstrations to show. Ive been opting a lot for fluorocarbon rigs myself for exactly reasons you stated and its been working really well at my local syndicate. Bait presented well all the time 👍🎣
I use a lot more of heavy mono now, cheaper than fluoro!
@@matthewcollinsangler i use a lot of mono on just a straight bottom bait now, using the GT HD line recently. Love that stuff.
@@pjlcarpexpeditions Good to know! This year I’ve used a lot of Nash Zig-Flo 12lbs (0.30) for hooklink and caught carp to 50+. It’s great value and really strong.
@@matthewcollinsangler thats great cheers mate i shall check it out for some rigs.
Hoping to look and booking some a week at your lake at some point with my girl friend. Have wanted to go for ages.
@@pjlcarpexpeditions Cool, great to hear mate 😊 Let me know if you ever want to plan a trip. Virtually fully booked for next year but plenty of choices for 2024 😉
Another good video Matt 👍
I've always gone for a rig laying flat rather than trying to camouflage it.With all the bits of weed ,twigs etc I don't believe colour of braid is important,as you say it's a lot more important the rig is pinned flat
Hi Darren, thanks as always for your support. Glad that you’re with me on that one. All the best for your Church session! Keep us posted 😜 Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler
Hi Matt cheers pal.keep up the video's there really good.Were off Friday to church pool.nashy is coming for a drink and we'll be seeing Alan and the other guy's. I'll
be mentioning what a good ambassador you are for Nash 💪
Ah right cool! Wow, that’s awesome mate. It’s really nice to know that you like what we do. I’d be very surprised if they knew who I was! We only chat to Henry and Will. We didn't set out with sponsorship as the end goal but it’s an honour to represent one of the top brands for sure. We'll continue to share knowledge and hopefully help a few anglers along the way 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler
Love the channel pal ,and they'll hear nothing but good things from me .💪
Back as always my friend.
I had an interesting observation I wanted to pass by you. So we've just had a very large amount of rain and the lake is up a few feet actually. I went out for a quick morning session at a swim I've been frequenting.
So what I'd noticed is there was an exceptional amount of brasching/basching. More than any other time in months for the time of day. Yet not a single bite.
What I'm assuming is the storm and run in to the lake brought a lot of silt and debris into the water column so they were just continually clearing their gills? Have you ever experienced something like this? And is there any real way to differentiate between say them hitting insect top water and clearing gills?
Hello sir. Carp love the scent of fresh water or different water. They are driven to explore it, follow it and harvest what food they can from it. We’ve had big carp jump over our upstream weir during a short period of flooding and get trapped in a tiny inlet stream! I would suggest that the new rain falls has stirred up lots of food that is in suspension and they are simply harvesting that. Very difficult to catch them in these conditions because they are preoccupied with feeding in the mid layers, not on the bottom. As usual, timing is everything. Give them a few days and it will be a different story as long as the oxygen levels haven't been affected too badly. Cheers, Matt.
Hi Mathew. I had a quick question about fishing single hook baits.
I fish a venue where the fish are under no pressure and I feel that my success is entirely dependent on having baited my area over a good period of time. But I'm interested in fishing single baits with no freebies. Do you have any experience with something like this?
Hi mate, yes absolutely. I fish a 500h venue from the shore (days only and no boat) My go-to approach is to use heavy glugged single hookbaits cast as far as humanly possible. No freebies, no PVA mesh, nothing. Just a single hookbait cast out into the abyss. They don’t even show so all I have to go is the wind direction. As long as I’m facing into the wind then I’m in with a shout. I have to recast every 4 hrs because the poisson chat will turn a 24mm rock hard hookbait into a pea like blob in no time at all. It takes courage and commitment and a serious amount of confidence but it does work and I’ve had some cracking fish from there up to 20kg. It goes without saying that your whole approach has to be rock solid. I use a mega simple rig for this work so check this link out: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html Hope that inspires you to give it a go. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Cheers Matt.
If I have moving canal water in the desert👉⁉️Would you suggest get it to lay completely down as best as I can with water that’s always moving??? Split shot close to my hair rig hook, maybe?
Tight line or no?
20 foot wide, 5-7ft deep.
Any tips would be swell. Thx boys🪄🎣
Hi Mathew, I’m a little confused about whether to use a small loop covered with anti tangle sleeve or just a large loop to double over a large ring swivel. Korda currently pushing Sleeves a lot for pushing bait out and resetting, which I get. But is there pros and cons for both. I’d have thought a ring swivel like mine gives the bait a lot more movement if the fish comes from behind. Also on the cast is one better for anti tangle than the other
Hi mate, for me it very much depends on the choice of hooklink material I’m using. If for example I needed to use a nice supple material like 25lbs Armourlink then I’d make a large loop at the end (just using a simple overhand knot) and then loop to loop that to a ring swivel. It’s an absolute myth that the rig has to kick away from the bait to be effective. Anglers have been dropping supple braid rigs from boats onto spots for years at my lake here and caught countless carp doing so. Watch this video for a great example of this rig: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.htmlsi=n8AGVcKDjPO60ZnH
If I’m casting and I needed to use a semi stiff hooklink like 30lbs (0.50) heavy duty mono snag leader, then I’d opt for a quick change swivel with a short tungsten anti tangle sleeve pushed over the loop to hold it in place. I’m not using or relying on the anti tangle tube to kick the bait away. This is achieved by the semi stiff hooklink. Of course you can use this type of rig from a boat as well but you have to love rig tying because you are going to be doing a lot of it. I don’t worry at all about the way in which the carp approach the rig from. If the hook is sharp enough then you stand an excellent chance of a run. Hope that helps, cheers, Matt.
Hi Matt .
I've been using 15lb mainline with a 12lb hooklink on my syndicate water , with great success over the last 18 months . I've been catching carp up to 30lb with no issues whatsoever.
The reason I like the weaker link is so I snap at the hook knot . Course fishing 101
I fished a new water yesterday, very snaggy with bigger fish, upper 30s and I just kept getting snapped off all day . I lost 7 fish ! . I Lost more hooks in one day , than I have in years .
I decided to try out your mono rig , using 15lb main and they still snapped me off . Haha . Only this time , I snapped at the mainline knot , loosing everything. That's unacceptable for me , as its bad for the environment, and there's now a fish with a hook link and swivel stuck in it's gob . That bothers me a lot .
My question is , if you snag or the fish snaps you , using your 15lb mono rig. How do you ensure snapping at the hook knot ?
Is it possible to tie a weak link in somehow, for example different strength knots either side of the swivel ?
Hope this sense .
Thanks Matt .
Hi David,
OK, here are some thoughts. This year I’ve been testing the Nash NXT Zig-Flo in 12lbs and I've had loads or 30s, 40s and even 50s so there’s absolutely no reason why you can’t use a good quality 12lb mono hook for big carp. If you’re banking 30s on 12lb hooklink then there can’t be much wrong with your knots but only you know how strong they are. I test every single knot. I bust plenty but then again I never get snapped up on a fish (unless it’s a massive catfish lol.) What has made a big difference is the nature of the lake you are fishing. It’s obviously rather snaggy and 12lb or 15lb mono won’t cut the mustard. I think you are being cut off rather than suffering knot failures but only a dead lift test of your setup will really tell you what’s going on. Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/RjdQV2U-_cc/v-deo.html
So my heavy duty snag fishing setup looks like this: 20lb Nash Bullet mainline (which is as tough as XXXX on its own). Then I add 10m of Nash Heavy Duty Snag Leader 40lbs (0.60) For hooklink I use Nash Skinlink 35lb which has a Kevlar core and is uber tough. I use multi rigs and swap the hooks as the Skinlink is not cheap. The leader goes straight down to a standard lead clip. These dump the lead on the take every time. If it’s weedy I’d use the weed version. I always use barbless hooks so the carp can rid itself of the hook in seconds if anything goes wrong. It’s the safest way to fish IMO. The whole setup is designed for ultimate strength and is very hard to break but this also makes it very safe.
Hope that gives you food for thought ☺️ Cheers, Matt.
(If you ever want to support the channel further, any purchases done on Amazon through this link will give us a small commission, price to you is the same: ttps://amzn.to/3TbvnaF 👍)
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt. I appreciate your advice. I don't think where I'm fishing warrants such heavy duty stuff.
That's a lot of stuff to loose if you do have to snap off , which everyone does occasionally, and in my mind the weakest section in that set up is the carps mouth .
I'm militant about weaker hooklinks in all of my angling .
I see carp anglers using such rigs all the time and I rarely see a fish that isn't torn . Carp care kits on stand by rings alarm ., For a professional like you it may be a different story , but average Joe angler those rigs are insane .
I think I just need to beef up to 18lb mainline, and 15lb hook links ensuring the weak point is by the hook still.
Thanks mate 👍
If i were to want to use boom line on my running rig could i just tie my rig with it normally? I keep hearing that crimping is the end all be all with that line but is it really that important ?
Hi, I don’t use booms or crimps and I never will so I’m probably not the best person to ask! I test all anglers’ setups at my lake and I’ve bust plenty of crimp connections over the years. I’m sure they can be done well but most anglers don’t actually test the finished result and just assume that it’s a strong connection. IMO you are better off mastering how to tie simple strong knots and rigs as they are all you need to be successful. Best of luck, Matt.
Matthew a bit of topic, but could you let us know which landing net and handle you use if possible, great videos really enjoying the content.
It's all nash stuff mate
Hi mate, sure no problem. I’ve got a few that I use. I’ve had a pair of Drennan Super Specialist Telescopic landing net handles for years and they did me good service. I have one head from Fox that you can’t even buy anymore. The other head is a Terry Hearn ESP 44”. I was disappointed in the ESP because the landing net handle broke on a carp and I had to pair the arms onto an old Fox Spreader block and go back to the Drennan pole. The latest addition to my arsenal has been the Nash Dwarf Landing net and pole. I see a lot of gear and some of it isn't great at the lower end but the Nash Dwarf range continues to surprise me. The pole and net are excellent. Better than most landing nets at double the money. Here’s an affiliate link for the item: amzn.to/3RhoeUm. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks for the reply, will definitely check that link out , I find I have problems finding a decent handle that can cope with big carp, and be reasonably lightweight and strong, once again thanks for the great advice it's very much appreciated thank you.
@@Speedy_65 Hi mate, totally understand. I’ve seen some customer nets that are floppy, shallow and quite useless TBH. I’ve only had the Nash Dwarf net for a month but it’s already been slipped under some angry 30s, 40s and a 50. As far as I’m concerned it’s absolutely fit for big carp fishing and is a nice balance between light weight, stiff and strong. It’s not as hefty as my old Drennan Super Specialist poles but then again it doesn’t weigh as much either.
(btw the link is an affiliate link to an Amazon page, same price to you but a small commission for me to help support the channel ☺ All our video descriptions now show links to the tackle/gear I use)
Cheers, Matt.
What are your thoughts using an antitangle sleeve on a pva bag rig?
Hi Gary, can’t easily answer that question, too many variables. What I suggest is to mount the bait you want to use on the rig, drop it in a bucket of water ½ dozen times. If the hooklink loops up, then change the way you connect the hooklink or as you say add an anti tangle sleeve and re-test until you get a consistent result. Once you’re happy, re-test with your pva bag. Hope that helps, Matt.
Thanks Matt, I'll see how it goes this weekend.
Who's xl anti tangle tube do you use Matthew?
Hi Phil, I use the Nash tungsten anti tangle sleeves.
What's your opinion on using rig foam around the hook?
Hi Ryan, I used to use foam all the time then one day I ran out and now I don’t bother. I don’t think it makes a difference in my fishing. There are some situations where using foam would help but I don’t think it’s essential. Cheers, Matt
Hey man! I wanted to ask what rig would you use for rivers with a fast/strong current? South Africa has many rivers with heavy current and it's often hard to find a way to effectively bait up and choose a rig, any advice?
I’d go with a robust mono rig made with some 0.50m min leader material. Combine that with a super shark hook with an out turned eye tied up as a d rig. This short video will give you an idea: ua-cam.com/users/shortsCh032Nsihcc?feature=share. There’ll be a full video on it at some point. Hope that helps! Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler Amazing! Thanks Matt! Happy fishing!
I recently caught a carp with a damaged mouth on one side. Unfortunately, my hook has settled right there. Do such injuries occur when playing or tearing off the wrong lead clip? Does an injury actually heal? Can you help the animal? Not nice. Thank you for your help
Hi Rolf, in my experience, it’s unlikely that you caused this injury. I suspect the tear was done when the carp was temporarily tethered by a lost rig and the carp was forced to rip its mouth to free itself. You just happened to catch it in the same place. You’re right, it’s not nice and you’re right to be concerned. The best thing to do is to use a product like the Nash medicarp which sticks very well to the wound (you need to dry the wound with a cotton pad first before applying the product). You don’t need to use much product and over time the carp will heal. Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler Thank you very much
Can you avoid that by pulling your led back just for a few centimeters?
Hi there, I wouldn’t do that as there’s a risk you’d damage your hook point or pull the hook into debris on the bottom which wouldn’t help your chances.
Hi Matt - need your expert opinion.
Been visiting a fishery in the UK that is fished by 6 anglers daily - it is 1 acre and has 100 carp in it - I have blanked 7 times in a row and on the 7 occasions have only seen 2 people catch.
Ive tried multiple rigs to no avail - however I have found out the owner feeds the fish 20kg of pellet a week.
is this normal owner practice ?
Hi mate, big question, long answer 😊 So 100 carp in one acre is a high stocking density and to have six anglers on 1 acre sounds busy! We have 100 carp in 3 acre with normally just 1 to 3 anglers. Yes, it’s normal to supplement a carp’s diet with good quality feed pellets. 20kg is nothing compared to what they can eat, but six anglers can put a lot of bait in. We only add supplementary feed at certain times of year. When the temps are high and the oxygen is low we wouldn't dream of adding any feed.
Here’s a guess of what may be happening where you are. If you know the average size of carp, you can calculate the total biomass. Using a supplementary feed rate (Fr) of 1% biomass (BM) per day would be at the lower end of the spectrum. This can go up to 2% at certain times of year. So say 100 carp with an average size of 8kg = 800kg BM. At 1% that’s 8kg per day or 56kg per week so 20kg per week is well below 1% Fr. The trouble is if six anglers are lobbing in 1kg each per day every day then that’s 62kg per week. That’s not enough to upset things on a normal week but if oxygen is low then things can go wrong and it will kill the fishing unless there is a serious amount of aeration. It is possible that the supplementary feed program is making the situation worse at certain times of year (during the summer) but there are other factors to consider.
For more info on baiting in the summer, check this out: ua-cam.com/video/7f2yEYx0Cw0/v-deo.html
I’m sure another reason why not many carp are caught is down to angling pressure. These carp are seeing a lot of rigs and have learned to deal with them. This is something I’m very familiar with. Basically everyone is getting done on a daily basis. You are getting a few bleeps right? Those are the bites! You need to go back to basics. I’d use a simple mono hair or mono rig on a basic running ledger with a light lead so as not to spook the fish. You need razor sharp hooks so that’s a size 8 Nash Chod Twister and change them every cast. Fish singles or little PVA traps. The carp will be seeing a lot of bait and will be cautious over bait. Your goal is to pick them off using one small trap and nothing else. This is the rig you need: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html. The mono D is also a great choice but don’t use the top bead: ua-cam.com/video/hoHB1gi_sQs/v-deo.html use bottom baits straight out the bag. Maybe a bit of plume juice for added attraction: ua-cam.com/video/Km35wH2V2TA/v-deo.html. Hope that gives you food for thought! Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler You are the man will take note of this - Thanks Matt.
The average fish size is around 14lb - highest 30lb.
Owner usually puts the aerators on once a day for a couple of hours in the morning.
Really appreciate the reply - have a nice evening
Hello Matt what rig do you use to fish whit a snowman
I like a German rig with a bait screw that has a swivel built in with triggerlink and I use the tungsten bait stops nash sell amazing little things
Snowman rig
@@Kb11466 yeah it's a boilies at the bottom of 15mm in size and a 10mm pop up on top of the boilie a snowman
Hello Tjeu, you can use a simple knotless knot with supple braid such as this one: ua-cam.com/video/ED58TfFEcqM/v-deo.html. Cheers, Matt
Swivel, ,six inches or so of amnesia, another swivel , two or three inches of soft hook link or mono ,whatever you want really ,pop up or bottom bait ,bit of lead putty round swivel if needed for pop up .Lays flat every time ,no tangle .Still catches carp like it did in the 90’s .
So if the line is not lying directly on the bottom it will spook carp? Sorry I’m just use to this whole carp thing
Hi there, it depends how much angling pressure the carp you’re fishing for see. On an easy water, it matters less but if you fish for bigger carp, it becomes more important.
Yes I've seen carp (and barbel) spook on sight of looped up line on underwater footage.
It seems to me that fish will ignore the lead but instinctively remember that line=bad.
id advice anyone to grab a £40 quid action cam, attach some stripped RG6 coaxile cable to it & your phone to hold the wifi signal and toss it in a margin with a rig on it and watch how the fish react for a while. never know, might get an underwater take while ya at it.
Hi, how do you use the RG6 coaxile to cable the cam to you phone?
Odlično,ali neznam zašto stavljate titl,i nevidi se šta radite,jar je tačno na onome šta pokazujete???
You can remove subtitles in your settings.
Thanks😅
Anti tangle!!! Sleeve 😂
Wind lead 10" across bottom guaranteed to be flat
Hi Darren, I get where you are coming from but I’m not so sure about it. Sure you might straighten out the hooklink but the chance of you damaging the hook or impaling it on some debris is high IMO. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler I absolutely believe 100% in all of your clips, very well explained and most importantly the science adds up , however I don't like how everything naturally falls so if its not too silty I'll wind in a couple of turns just to make sure ? Some of the waters I fish are extremely difficult and have old wary fish never trip one of these up if there is anything visible and this goes for lead clips and leads too ! I've had to extend leader length to keep lead well away ! Chuck a pva bag at these fish and they will pass you laughing!!
I've tried your method of fishing with bait runner tightened up and it's good at automatic hooking but I've found it good when fishing to obstacles as it slows fish instantly down instead of bolting with little resistance to slow it down.
@@darrenrichardson6803 Hi Darren, 50% of the carp population at the lake here are 30 years old and have been fished for many years so I’m familiar with the problem. Having caught hundreds of them on supple braided rigs dropped from bait boats or rowing boats, having the bait next to the lead doesn't bother me in the slightest but I do want the hooklink to be flat as if it sticks up they will feel it and can spook off. I’m not bothered about visibility as the carp can’t see a damn thing at my lake. They can feel though and that’s where I put the emphasis. Of course carp are going to spook off a cast of a solid PVA bag at first but they will return to it. I’m working on a new technique which combines a rowing boat with a bushwhacker pole. This enables me to accurately place a rig and a small amount of bait without spooking the fish. It’s a very effective method for wily carp.
Glad to know that you like my tip about semi tight clutches. I use that all the time in my fishing and you’re right it’s much better to control the fish from the instant it’s hooked if other obstacles are a factor. Happy hunting, Matt.
Just put a swivel in the middle of the hooklink
If you throw like that, the needle gets caught on the line
Hi, sorry I’m not sure what you mean 🤔 This video shows how different rig connections react when you drop them from a bait boat and how small details can make a big difference to how a rig sits on the bottom. Regards, Matt.
I spotted you didn't moisten your knot, that is a school boy error especially with a blood knot.after seeing that I have no confidence in you I'm afraid to say ! 🤔
Ah yes, well spotted. This video wasn’t a detailed how-to rig video so we left all the rig tying details out otherwise it’d have been 3 times as long lol. You’re right, it’s a critical step and I show knot wetting in my rig tying videos. Good to have it mentioned here for everyone.
It's the biggest myth in carp fishing that carp spook off rigs. They have absolutely no idea what any end tackle is. It's embarrassing that anyone thinks they do. Please please stop this utter nonsense.
They see that water every day ? A loop kicked off the bottom and they will ride past with laughter? Once you have had a hook in your lip 200 times you start to tread carefully? They even recognise baits that have been in water a long time?
@@darrenrichardson6803 the bottom of a lake is constantly changing. Especially if it's weedy. Why would a loop of something they know nothing about worry them? if carp knew anything they'd get caught on a round ball once and never touch them again. There is very very little a carp can consciously do. It doesn't 'think' it just reacts to it's environment and physical state.
@@jamesharrison5004 we all have our own thinking on this ? I think they wise up with age and look and feel around baits ? There's one of them korda lead clips guys getting popular on the bottom of here" hence the box commen in linear fisheries it hadn't been out for 18months every peg is rammed every day of the the year how did that fish evade the hook for so long 🤔 baffles me a
@@darrenrichardson6803 I would say the only possible thing they could be wary of is bait. What does everyone on Linear do, empty a 10kg bucket of spod mix. Box Common probably eats more fish than you think and eats in the margins s where no one fishes.
@@jamesharrison5004 there is a line everywhere in linear! Myself and a well known old school angler did some experiments on a mouth in a bay and put 2 scoops of particles where we could see them and fish did not touch it ! Infact they swam around it didn't pass over the top of the bait ? The fish are that wise and I'm that rig conscious sad as it maybe but I'll hand plant my rig in water cover lead and leader in silt but trips them up .
the most bad advice for carp safety. If there is a crack the carp cant get rid of the rig,mainline, leader, leadetc.. many companys made carp safe leadclips, use them ffs
honestly the helle rig he showed is banned from 75% of fisheries what give a shit also so bit pointless showing a fixed-lead rig like that what most people aint allowed to use on commercials.
I think you guys better have another look. He owns a fishery, there is no way Matt would use an unsafe rig.
@@Scottymol the lead cant disconnect from the leader. Its rare it matters because the hook link rolls off the end if you get snapped off...but it's still banned on most commercials without a lead clip of sorts to ensure its not fixed like that.
@@ryankings6755 Are you referring to Heli-rig? it's just stopped by a bead which will come loose.? Maybe I'm missing something. I'm sure Matt will comment.👍
@@Scottymol I was, usually fixed hele rigs are attached to a swivel of one sort or another. The hooklinks free moving with the beads. But if the mainline snaps off fish is trailing the lot due to the fixed lead not freelancing off the run