Why I stopped using leather strop?
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Raw unedited and cut short by my phone memory boring video explaining that I am lazy and chasing a stubborn burr is far from enjoying.
I want clean apex fast and efficiently - probably it will not be the sharpest edge out there but I am not shaving with my knives.
If stropping rocks your boat - go for it. I am not good at using one.
Have a nice day and thanks for watching...
Just recently found this channel. You can see this man's love for this art and his passion for passing on his knowledge and skill to others. Thank you sir for all you work.
Also just found out that Mr Wolf has sadly left us. His videos and works will definitely benefit many of us for years to come.
@@Resolute900 I just found out about Cliff Stamp and now Stefan too. 😪 RIP Gents. You left a mark on the world.
@@l26wang wow, Cliff Stamp too? From COVID-19?
@@redangrybird7564
Sim!
@@Resolute900 Ouch, I just discovered this man's highly informative channel only to find out minutes later that he is no longer with us. I suppose that defeats the point of subscribing.
Even if it is from beyond the grave, your memory and wisdom live on. Thanks for the advice.
I've run into the same frustration chasing a stubborn burr. I think that using a quick ceramic honing rod might be a useful quick step before the strop, but I haven't tested the theory more than a couple times.
Pull the edge gently on the wood on your strop then strop the knife a little more. I use thin newspapper, medium and very thick papper for floors also. Stubborn burr always comes off with strop, wood, strop, papper x2 and hard side of strop.
The sound on the Arkansas stone is SO satisfying!
No boring at all. I really enjoyed it for whatever my opinion is worth. A norton crystolon or india combo stone for rough work and refinement, and a good hard finer stone for maintenance are all that may need for knives.
Yes and finishing and micro bevel on a hard Washita/Ouachita Arkie with a little WD40 as a lube.......really sharp.
I like watching your videos. Not boring at all! I like using strops and I understand your pov. I really hope you start up again
Think he died
@@kevinaweseom2866 i started making videos in 2008 and had many years when i stopped due to lack of time. I sure hope it’s the same for him.
Our dear Stefan passed away, sir...
"A tenacious m-effing bur " can relate. 🙂 23:55
Definitely the most boring sharpening video that I have watched. And sharpening videos are boring by nature. But very interesting indeed. Thank you.
I'm with you on your pragmatic approach to sharpening. People get all caught up in trying to refine edges to the point where they can circumcise flies. What i need is something that will cut a tomato without skidding on the skin.
I stopped using my bamboo cutting board when I discovered that I could draw a burr by stropping a blade on the board. Too tough for my edges, IMO.
To the point and well stated and one can go on and on and on chasing a burr that really is not that significant.....i agree with Stefan it's for food prep, not that we would be entering an international knife sharpening contest. I've done it, we've all done it......chasing the burr.
If I could micro bevel as well as you, I'd prob toss strops as well. Your apexes always seem to come out super clean, with high sharpness.
Hay Jeff. If you check out the science of sharp link above, the SEM images show that while edge leading wont create burrs unless you lean into it, it also does not produce edges as keen as edge trailing for a given grit rating. Because of this, you have to go up in grit rating with edge leading to match edge trailing.
My little brain wonders if your lack of success with microbeveling is related to grit rating rather than skill?
The other thing with microbeveling. The pressure you use is very light. Pretty much just the weight of the blade. Well at least thats my experience. Might not be a universal :)
@@branwellmcclory3459 I've tried, more times than I can count. With coarse, fine, and everything in between. I can nail it perfectly, with help from a sharpmaker. Once I go freehand, things just never turn out proper. I've followed all the advice I was given. I made several videos showing my dilemma. Once the frustration starts, I set it down for a few months, before making another go. I am a bit over due :p
@@Jef Absolutely the same for me. I once tried for an hour on one single knife, started all over... Then move over to the Sharpmaker, do 10pps and I'm done. I don't know what I screw up freehanded when trying to apex. I got myself a Spyderco benchstone now and I'm slowly getting better.
edge leading produces a bigger burr than edge trailing. per science of sharp
@@chrisolenick953 I read those articles, maybe you confused it. Edge leading impacts abrasives on the burr and helps to fracture and remove it. Edge leading to minimize burr. Edge trailing to refine apex, specially on coarse stones, but if you insist on it a micro burr will be formed even with alternating strokes.
man that part of the knife is always hardest to sharpen
Have you tried stropping after you microbevel and remove the burr?
yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah. EXACTLY. I can HEAR the burr!!
And I get them in the SAME EXACT AREAS. Transition to the tip, etc. wth?
Wow, this guy died from Covid. R.i.p dude
whoa. that sucks. seriously !?? 😢
:(
That's true. I just Google it.
I'm getting away from stropping also. I finish with 8k stone on kitchen knives. Actually I'll finish by stropping on the 8k stone. No leather.
How do I differentiate between an edge that doesn't cut because it's not fully apexed and a knife that has a microburr? The only method I know so far is checking if shaving works in both directions, but since my hair is finite, I can't do that forever.
same story, my arms and legs are all bald now because shave test is the best test I know how to do
@@khyleesikihel3552 by the time I switched to the newspaper cutting test. This gives a better idea of if the edge is clean all the way
you can feel a burr with your fingers, or hear it when you strop lightly on some hard leather.
Great video again Stefan, thank you. Understood everything but one thing. How do you know when to cease grinding so that you don’t create a burr but can create a micro bevel without flat spots?
Experience born in trial and error 😂
A microscope gets rid of the guess work you can get one for like 20 bucks
Also, when he drags the knife edge across the stone he's causing a visible flat at the apex. It's big enough to reflect light if look directly down on the knife's edge. I think ideally you want to go until the light just stops reflecting.
With all the fine stones you have you just dont need a strop :)
Honestly if you really perfect your technique even a coarse stone produces a high level of sharpness.
But it takes a lot of crazy practice.
You can get hair whittling with a 220 grit stone.
I'm going to state the obvious, but wouldn't raising the angle on the black ark get rid of most of the bur, making it easy to remove it with the strop.
Nice, Thank you. it isn't the technique so much, it is the quality of stainless steel, which isn't crisp,,, it is gooey, and almost always gets a stubborn burr. I hat stainless.
A lot of Chefs just give the sharpened knife a once over on their leather trouser belts
Looks like you've done this a time or 2
Leather strop: so im display now
I also find chasing the burr to be the most frustrating part of the process. Have you tried drawing the edge at a very low angle at 90 degrees across the stone? It sometimes helps but not all the time.
Won't get an answer, he passed away from Covid sometime in 2020.
I don't think you have a burr in the belly after all that stropping, chopping and cutting against the cutting board. I simply don't believe in a such stubborn burr to even exist in a simple stainless kitchen knife steel (altough pretty tough) like you have there. The simplest explanation is that the burr was long gone and while leaving the apex, it ripped off a part of the apex with it.
To form a micro bevel, is to make the edge more obtuse while removing as little steel as possible. This leads to minimal burr formation and stronger apex, so the small burr that will form can't brake the stronger more obtuse apex.
I think these low hardness basic stainless steel kitchen and butchering etc. knives, are never meant to hold a super sharp edge, but to be easily "touched up" with a honing steel and to not chip in any circumstance. Just my 2c.
lol i wonder how many more knives you have sharpened compared to OP. since you know what your doing and all you should start making videos to explain what you obviously know better
@@chrisolenick953 : "lol i wonder how many more knives you have sharpened compared to OP. since you know what your doing and all you should start making videos to explain what you obviously know better"
You're right, I should, but I choose not to. Not because I knew better than him, or have better technique than he had (I don't!), but to have an outlet for the insight I have accumulated watching and reading countless hours of knife sharpening related material.
There's still lots of myths and misconceptions around the subject, and I know I'm not immune to that matter either, but the information is out there, backed by evidence provided with SEM-imaging.
Even the very best video content providing sharpeners, who have the most advanced high-end techniques that provide results I would not believe if had not seen them, don't know everything, or straight out refuse to believe the evidence provided to them. This has propably more to do with psychology than expertise in sharpening, because lack of experience does not negate the validity of the evidence.
All this, does not take any value from the content and skill provided by these fantastic individuals, but the discussion and minds should remain open for improvement.
I know I have not brought any proof to back up my hypothesis, I don't think this is the place or time for that.
I had no guts to say this before but,
Rest in peace Stefan, we miss you!
🔪❤🐈⬛
On anything below ~60hrc a 1k-3k stone and then a steel (3k stone is kinda wasted but maybe you get a 3k rod instead of a steel). On the 60-62 HRC like Shun you wont really notice stropping,except that they become nice and razor sharp until you used them for 15minutes. You can repeat that but..theres little use. on the 62+ super steel i can tell you that you notice going 6k, then strop it and it stays like that for (that i got told after trying by the chef) half of the evening on his station.
The sane options is your pants to strop the burr away or cardboard. cardboard has a sharpening effect that beats most paste on leather tbh.
hahaha so your saying cardboard particulates are stronger than 8 plus on the mohs scale? use your paste on flat paper or but paste on flat cardboard like cereal box and it will abrade 5 times faster than leather and 20 times faster than plain cardboard without paste. guess it depends are u taking it off a 30k stone to strop or a 6k stone. probably dont want a 30k stone edge hitting cardboard with a paste or emulsion and then plain cardboard might shine
How do you like the Black Arkansas stone?
It's a good consistent stone. More like a hard than surgical black. Great for SS kitchen knives.
Too humble to say that your technique is not perfect. It's really clean and consistent. Stone are also well conditioned you put TLC to everything
As always really informative. But using the strop to remove the burr is kinda wrong. Have you tried remove the burr first on the stone before proceeding to to strop?
Your angles are not equal.
I know. I can live with that.
very funky method you show. Making your cutting edge dull first and then re-sharpen it is a nice way to wear down your blades quickly (are you payed by a knife-maker?).
You in the beginning mention IKEA cutting boards - seems you use their knives too, 56HRc is poor for a good kitchen knife, good knives are 60+ HRc - and once sharpened, they can easily be maintained by stropping, unless you get chipped or rolled edges.
If you're too lazy to "chase a stubborn burr"
1. choose a harder knife (>58 HRc)
2. run the edge over the face-end of a piece of hardwood two or three times
If you want to stick to your method, and I guess you do, at least swap your ridiculously expensive Arkansas-stones for a couple of diamond plates, they don't wear down, don't get uneven and are much cheaper (if you don't go with high-end) . I use 600/1000 grit diamonds for 30€ each for the last 15 years and they now are about 800/1200 grit but are still in excellent shape - I re-profiled and ground chips and major nicks out of almost 200 knives, machetes and axes, as well as several planing blades and broaches.
Unfortunately Stefan the video poster won't be able to respond to you as he sadly passed away from covid-19 a few months ago.
I think this video from the late Cliff Stamp explains the sharpening technique. Its about not raising a burr in the first place , as a burr indicates the edge has suffered from metal fatigue. The apex method is about reaching an edge just before a burr is created and adding a micro beval. This method creates a sharper edge , with better edge retention. The burr is like bending a paperclip backwards and forwards till failure , the paper clip snaps because of metal fatigue. ua-cam.com/video/OPGGo3W15HQ/v-deo.html. I hope the video lined helps explain the sharpening methodology better , Cliffs method was not for first timers it involved a bit of trial and error. I am still trying to learn how to freehand this way but as with a lot of skills it takes lots of practice to become proficient. I hope this help you understand this technique better and maybe try it yourself.
@@thehopperhopes6365 Stefan Wolf may rest in peace.
As far as I know (and experienced the last 60 years) a burr in a sharpening process has NOTHING to do with metal fatigue, it occurs even when sharpening a brand new knife for the first time - so, I will keep on sharpening my knives ONCE, run it across the end grain of a piece of wood and then strop it and strop it again and again, when it gets dull. I only sharpen it again, when I accidently damaged the blade and got chips or nicks or severe rolling. All my blades easily shave, so I think, they don't need any more (and I doubt, your method really creates a sharper blade).
Stay safe and get vaccinated if you are not already.
@@thehopperhopes6365 I just subscribed to Stefan following the passing of Cliff a few days ago because I loved the plateau sharpening method. My condolences to his family. Do you know who is still alive and still does plateau sharpening?
@@alexwyee99 I'm not sure anyone of anyone else on UA-cam doing this method of plateau or as I call it apex sharpening. Cliffs website and the 'Phorum' is still around if you google 'cliff stamp + towards .1 micron'. Obviously it may not be around for ever since he will no longer be able to maintain the site. Kyley of 'CKC Knives' is on UA-cam but his channel is not uploading any new content. Maybe check with the guys on Cliffs forum to see what's happening.
Running your knife edge over the stone is done to remove fatigued steel. It doesnt wear down your blade faster with a few tiny strokes...
why use animal products unless you eat them.. anyway
God speed anw