EASY - How to Install an Ikea Island -- LONG VERSION
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
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This is a companion video to the shorter version found here:
• EASY - How to Install ...
How to secure an Ikea Sektion island the easy way and the cheap way. Not complicated frames or kits!
One of the best practical videos I've seen. No distracting music, well edited, all points covered with clear, succinct advice. Really, exemplary. Well done.
You are an absolute LIFESAVER. Ive been building my kitchen island for about three days and I was getting real frustrated!! Came across your video and finished up CONFIDENTLY a few hours after that.
“That things isn’t going anywhere!”
🙏🏻😂♥️
I’ve watched a half dozen or so IKEA peninsula installs and this one makes the most sense.
Thank you so much - been losing sleep thinking about how I was going to do this!
I just used your method for my 2.2 meter long island. It is now as solid as a rock and wasn't too hard to level. I think i would have gone crazy using the Ikea fixing system. So many thanks, from melbourne australia. 😀
Great techniques and tips ! ... thanks so much for taking the time explain all the steps, you obviously have a ton of experience assembling these ikea islands, i'm so glad i watched your video, im confident that i can assemble my island
thanks for sharing
Thank you so much for this! What a great technique. I will be installing my own Ikea cabinets, and although I have used a table saw, I was nervous about ripping a bunch of 2 by's for the bases. Stacking them is perfect! Ripping custom toe kicks made me even more nervous than the bases, but this way, I can use the Ikea legs with Ikea toe kicks. I feel less anxious already. Thank you!
IKEA is afff junk weak all board is particle can’t hold weight water. Danger to use for kitchen island
They are some great tips. I'm about to install my ikea island. Thanks for taking the time to post the video!
Nice camera work and explanation! Great job!
Very good instructions. Thanks.
Great content. Love how you just get to the point.
Very good video.
Consise and to the point. Following this step-by-step.
By FAR the most comprehensive tutorial ive seen. Question: How would I attach a butcher block as a counter top?
Different ways you could do it but if you buy some little corner brackets you could install them all around the inside of the cabinets "near the top corners" that way when you put on the butcher block you screw ur way up thru the brackets and into the butcher block..
Screw through the metal top bracket into the bottom of the counter. There are holes in the top bracket for this purpose.
Thank you for the video. I see that you had trimmed off the top on both side of the oven cabinet. What kind of cooktop did you install? We are doing the same configuration with induction cooktop. Will I need to trim off the oven cabinet like you did?
Great video and detailed explanation. Thank you!!
Thanks for the Video! Over all it is very helpful. But one question remaining. Is the sleeper base screwed to the floor? How do you prevent the whole Island from tripping over if drawers with heavy goods are all pulled out?
Yes it is. It would not work otherwise.
Thanks for this simple yet thorough video. That was easy-peasy 😁
My island will consist of four 15” x 24” cabinets, drawers only. Quartz with 10” overhang along the back long side. Right now it will sit on tiles but hopefully soon those will be replaced by vinyl planks. Can I use your idea but actually not screw it to the floor? Will it be stable enough? Are there any other better solutions if one doesn’t want to or can’t screw it down to the floor? Thank you for a great video and all the support.
No, it will not work at all if it is not screwed down. That is the whole point of this method. In fact if you had long enough screws you wouldn't even need the boards. Remove the tile under the island area and attach it directly to the sub floor. This is the only way to do it.
@@prokitchenbuilders thank for quick reply. Originally I was hoping for a movable island but do much for that I guess. I will be drilling it down. Got the lumber already👍
@@1973kasiek if you want a truly mobile Island, you could install it on casters. Have done that once before.
Great video thank you very helpful. I am about to install an island in my basement to be used as a bar. It is about 11.5ft in length so I purchased 5 cabinets at 24x30 with a space on the side for a mini fridge. Would you recommend adding 2 sleeper base giving the length is pretty long? I assumed you used 1 1/4 construction screws for both securing the cabinets to each other and attaching the side and back panel?
No you don't need two sleeper bases. It wont really add anything other than complication. Yes 1 1/4“ screws.
Great vid - thanks! One quick question though, if I am installing cabinets on an island back-to-back, would I use two widths of 1x4 to maintain the right spacing for the side panels?
Been a little while since I did one of those. You actually need a little more than 2 1x4s since you do not have the thickness of the back panel involved. If remember correctly, I used either 4 1x4s or 2 2x4s and I did not use the plastic insert in the mounting bracket. This will get the panel almost flush with the door.
Thanks for this video, answered questions I had regarding the cover panels.
Nice Video! Question, why not level that center 2x4 bar before laying on the cabs?
Not necessary. The legs are for leveling. The boards are just there to hold it in place.
Very useful. Cheers.
Are you installing the Fixa brackets on top of the cabinet to make it flush with the other two metal support bars? This is so the countertop is supported everywhere.
The concept is solid...however why not screw the first 1x "sleeper" to the floor, then level(shim) the next 1x, then screw the top 1x to the leveled one...its much easier and faster without the cabinets in the way...now your all done and the cabinets will now just need legs lowered and leveling is much easier because your not futzing under the middle of the cabinets at all. Also if you screw all the boxes together flushing the tops and bottoms and sides before putting the feet on again your just screwing feet down till they just kiss the floor and it should be easier and faster because now its just one cabinet instead of three....your taking out the balancing act of too many moving parts fighting you. I've been working solo most of my career in the trades and I always look for the easiest yet repeatable ways of doing things....just my 2cents so take it for what its worth, hopefully it helps someone. Again the video is solid and this guy is doing a good service by it....I'm not saying to do anything different, just suggesting a different order.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments. Agree that you should screw the cabinets together flush them up first before doing any leveling. Can't remember if I pointed that out or not in the video. Disagree though with trying to shim the to 2x because I already did that and it was not as efficient. Even if the sleeper is perfectly level you will still have to level the cabinet front to back and the bottom of the cabinets will not be perfect so even if they are touching the 2x you cannot expect the entire run to be level. Also there has to be tension between the legs and the sleeper to keep it solid so it involves more than just a cabinets sitting on a level sleeper and the legs touching the floor. So no, I've done it that way, and it doesn't, work.
Pro Kitchen Builders....I agreed to screw to the sleeper thru cabinet bases to provide the tension to the feet and to stop any cabinet movement. If the sleeper is leveled first and the boards used are mostly square and true then I can conceed that there may still be minor shimming to the "leveled" sleeper in a less than perfect world....but if needed it would be minor and I would say maybe more efficient with the example in the video with over 3/4" of deviation(looks like on video atleast that much) of level in that run for the typical homeowner. There will always be many variations in the real world but I'd still stand on my suggestion being an alternative that may work easier for some. Again not changing what your concept is just suggesting a little different order.......the end result should be the same based on your video's tutelage.
@@shrconstruction I like Steves idea and will give that a shot to see if it works. Also i noticed the channel owner using a Stabila yellow level? Those suckers are a good few hundred bucks just for a level but i heard they are dead on reliable. Either way thank you guys for uploading and taking the time to teach us!
@@foofstarr4856 I mostly only by Stabila's......they are worth the money and are mostly a life long one time purchase tool. I don't let anybody use my levels so I know I never have to second guess the acuracy.
Thanks so much for all of the info. If I was installing this on top of a conventional slab (not post tension) would you recommend some sort of concrete anchor and epoxy?
I just use tapcons to install on concrete slab
How do you install the tapcons? I’m so nervous about drilling into concrete. At how many points would you need to drill into the concrete?
Very helpful. Thank ya!
Great Video
For the backing, did you add a spacer between the bracket and 1x material to push it out the distance you need to make the back panel flush with the finished edge appliance panel?
Did you use the wall mount brackets on the back or the sektion bracket for attaching the 1x?
We use the standard bracket that comes with the cabinet, we'll use the included white spacer in the bracket, then we mount the one by to that using the included clips and inch and a quarter screws. We do this at the top and the bottom by taking some of the top brackets , cutting openings in the back paneling, and installing those brackets at the bottom of the cabinets . We tried to evenly distribute the brackets across the whole spam on top and bottom . Then we Mount the panel to the one by by screwing through the one by material into the panel with inch and a quarter screws. This gives you the exact depth you need to put the 26 by 36 appliance panels on each end.
@@prokitchenbuilders Is the back panel not wobbly in the middle where there is a gap between the 1x and the cabinet?
@@snauzinator no, not with those small spans. If you go a longer distance, like several feet, it will wobble. If you run out of brackets, you can secure the 1x to the back of the cabinet by using a wood spacer and screwing through the 1x with a #6 x 1 3/4“ screw or similar, into the back of the cabinet frames.
Good work 💪
What do you do if a hump goes 90 degrees across your support frame 2x4s?
Thanks for the helpful video. I just wanted to know how you secured the sleepers to the ground? We have a wooden subfloor but we used self level compound to make it level and on top of that we have Vinyl. How can I secure the sleepers to the floor? Appreciate your reply.
Screws. Shouldn't be a problem to drill through the self leveler
@@prokitchenbuildersThank You.
So is it okay to anchor the island to a concrete subfloor through a LVT vinyl floating floor?
@@georgejin1764 yes
NICE VIDEO but one question since there is no space on the t top if u put stone or anything when u open the door it will touch the stone or anything that u have on the top how u fix that thx
Question or maybe I missed it, how exactly did you cut the back panel with the floor being sloped? Is the cut edge down facing the floor? My floor is very out of level but we used as much self leveler as we could and it's still out of whack.
Yes, cut the bottom to match the slope of the floor, and then seal it with clear silicone before installing it to prevent water intrusion into the particle board
Hi, where did you get those 90 degree metal reinforcement corners for the middle section? I need those since I don’t have the back panel attached to my sektion box
Just to confirm, did you secure the sleeper base to the floor or just to the cabinet ?
Great info btw
Sleeper to the floor. Cabinet to the sleeper.
Pro Kitchen Builders
Awesome thank you for the tip !
If using two sets of cabinets back to back for island, do you use the Ikea kit designed to join them, or do you use your own method as well?
I have done both. It depends on what panel you're going to use to finish out the sides of the cabinets. If you're going to use the 25 by 30 panels and have toe kick at the bottom then you can use the Ikea kit. If you want the end panels to go to the floor then you need to use the 26 by 36 panel and you need more space in between the cabinets to make the distance work which if I remember right is a two-by-four.
So helpful! Thank you.
Does this have to be done for all base cabinets? Or just the island? Do I need to do this for a corner base cabinet?
Just the island
Was the sleeper drilled into the floor?
you have the finished product with tabletop and all???
Hi, maybe you know if the side panels can be cut to 50 cm deep instead of 60. I’d like to install a Metod Kitchen, but I need them to be 50 cm deep, and I have seen that some panels from Ikea only have Wood in the sides, the rest of it looks like a paper honeycomb. Thanks a lot for your help
Not as familiar with Metod since I am in the US, but yes, all Ikea products are particle board inside so all cuts have to be hidden.
any particular reason you did not attach the sleeper to the floor ??
Sleeper was attached to floor with 3 inch screws. System would be completely meaningless otherwise.
I'm building an island which will be eventually used as the front counter in my cafe store. I put five cabinets skeleton 36x30 side by side to make a long counter now I need to attach the separate cabinets to each other to stabilize them which I don't know how to do it also I need a finish it with a front panel which unfortunately the IKEA doesn't have any panel that long. Especially the front side where it's facing the customers. Do you have any tips ?
IKEA provides screws to attach the cabinets to each other. (I built 2 kitchens 2 years ago... I'm trying to recall from memory). They are silver wood screws, about 3/4 inch long. Also, if IKEA doesn't make a panel long enough just use something else like wood bead board from Home Depot or Lowes. It will look great!
He explains how to attach the cabinets to each other at the 5:45 mark in the video
Hi, I know this was put out a while ago and thank you so much for your video. My question is, how would support a butcher block counter with a 12" overhang with these cabinets. I am wracking my brains on this. I am wondering if I could add some 1x3's vertically and but in corbels? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
If you're using Ikea cabinets, simply attached it with screws using the metal cross pieces on the top on the cabinets as indicated in the instructions. No need for 1x3s or corbels for the overhang.
@@prokitchenbuilders Thanks for your reply. I was planning on adding L brackets to secure the butcher block to the ikea cabinets, however the over hang is the long wAy and I think I have read in a few places, overhangs over 8" the long way, need to have additional support. We were planning on a little overkill and putting in an additional sleeper too. We have kids, so we are worried the whole think would crash on them. ( we aren't builders 😃 and have no experience with this stuff).
@@daisygrrrl I don't think the L brackets are necessary. Typical unsupported overhang with stone is 10-12". This amount should be no problem with butcher block unless you are planning on having several adults sitting on top of the counter at the same time.
Additional sleeper unnecessary. You'd need a bulldozer to move it with just the one shown in the video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I appreciate it immensly.
the finish back panel should have the wood grain horizontal, so it look perfect, for that you may have to use two pieces.
Agreed. We have made that our standard process.
@@prokitchenbuilders It's almost fun to build, I'm on my first one, everything is almost all there in the instructions. Cool video, merci!
Thanks for the vid. Please confirm: The island counter will be 26 inch wide? The final island surface is 26 inches by 7 feet? Is the counter going to be flush with the cabinets/panelling? There will be a cooktop in the center of the island? Can you show us the island completely finished please? Thanks again.
I don't have any pictures of this island after it was finished, sorry.
The depth is 26 inches (front to back) .
Length of this island was 69".
Any Ikea island built with the technique I show here will be 26 inches deep because it uses the 26x36 appliance panel to finish the ends. There are other ways to build it that would result in a different depth.
Yes this island had a cooktop in the center and a range underneath.
No the counter would not be flush with the paneling. Typical overhang for counter top over panel is 1". Standard overhang from face frame is 1.5". This island may have had more over hang in back for seating, possibly 10-12".
Can you cut your back pannel down to a smaller length and tuck it behind your end pannels without someone noticing the cut?
i guess, the cabinet support was installed incorrectly, Following Ikea instrcuction is very important. each cabinets should supported by 1 horizontal and 1 vertical support brackets (and each could be share with other cabinets) , the bracket needed to prevent cabinets move to all sides, the plastic footing only able to support the weight only,
your one long bracket only protect the sides, but not front and back, if somebody kicked the cabinets from front , the cabinets will fall apart to the back and breaks the footings.
the height of the support bracket is also too high, it should be the same or slightly lower than the height of the plint (8 cm). Why ? this will be a minimum adjustble height of your cabinet, you can't adjust the plastic footing lower than that.
Cabinets don't need to sit on the support, but need to be screwed to the support, that screws prevent the movements. the weight of the cabinets supported by the plastic footing.
Thanks for this vid! Very helpful!!! If the island is much smaller (36"w x 24"d) do you still need a sleeper base?
Yes!
Any suggestions how to support a non-ikea farmhouse sink in an island set up like this one? Should I use a fridge cabinet in lieu of a sink cabinet?
No, we use the standard base cabinet the same width as the sink and then make a saddle cut in the cabinet to place the sink.
Do you have to measure the correct spot to place the side panel so it’s 1/2” over in the front? I see it goes past the cabinet in the fron and back.
Yami B yes the end panel is 26", so first we add a 1x4 to the back and put up (but don't secure) the back panel. Then we put up the side panel so that it lines up with the back panel at the corner. This leaves a 1/2" over hang in front. After we are certain of the fit for all three panels we secure them.
Pro Kitchen Builders ok thanks so much. I am attempting my island install today. One more question. You have stacked 3 2x3’s in the middle and shimmed up. This would make the height taller than the standard 36” including a 1 1/2” counter correct? I see many people building a frame with 2x4s and wonder how that works if the legs are 4.5” high. I’m trying to get to the standard 36” height. Following your example I would need 4.5” height of wood in the middle to match the toe kick height right? Sorry if that sounds confusing. I don’t want my island higher than my surrounding base cabinets.
No it won't be higher. Each 2x is 1.5" so 1.5+1.5+1.5 = 4.5. The cabinet is 30" so 30+4.5 = 34.5, which is the correct height for all your base cabinets. The shimming is to account for floors that are not level and to keep the bottom of the cabinet from flexing downward when screwed into the 2x base. If your floors are not level you will have areas where the finished countertop height is more or less than it is in other areas and more or less than 36 in. This will be true of any and any base cabinets.
Pro Kitchen Builders you guys are a lifesaver. Thanks so much for your prompt reply, on a Sunday no less! I feel more confident than I did this morning. So glad for this video!
How long did installation of this unit take you start to finish, including unboxing and all doors and slides, etc.?
Based on my kitchen experience with a full kitchen, my guess is this bit would take about 6 hours...maybe half that if you really know what you're doing, or more if you don't.
Silly question but how do you get to 4 1/2 inches tall -ratter than 6 inches- by stacking up 3 pieces of 2*3?
A 2x3, like any 2x material, is 1 1/2“ thick.
Sorry if this is a stupid question but why do you need a sleeper base? I’ve got a floating floor and have installed an L shape kitchen with one side against the wall. Am about to add a further countertop off the bottom of the L making an h style shape (L with I off bottom right of the L). Hope that makes sense! The countertop is to sit in an old Lack 2x4 cube with same kitchen cabinet feet for kickboard and a cover on the back of the Lack so cubes are only accessible on one side. I also need to add on the back cover for the L kitchen cabinets to finish the effect. Should I add a sleeper between the lack and cabinet to add strength BUT the only thing is ideally I don’t want to screw into the flooring. Any help appreciated.
If you can't fasten the cabinets to a wall then you're going to have to fasten them to the floor. If you don't want to screw through your floating floor, then cut away a small section and fasten the boards directly to the subfloor.
@@prokitchenbuilders Thank You - I really appreciate your advice and love your no nonsense approach.
Hi, I followed your method, and have used two sleepers instead of one, however, I'm experiencing oscillations when i bump the top counter top - it's something you'd expect from a free standing table so maybe I'm pushing it too much - any ideas what I could be doing wrong?
Don't usually have too much movement. I'd suggest tightening the legs more. The tension between the legs pushing on the floor and the screws holding into the sleeper should keep it fairly immobile.
@@prokitchenbuilders Thanks for the reply. I went back and glued each of the pieces of 2x4 lumber to each other and it's solid now. Initially I had each of the lumbers screwed to each other along the center line (axially) so it allows it to flex.
How was the back panel attached to the 1x4?
1 1/4" screws
so what happens with the toe kick if there is a 5/8" difference in height from the floor between the two ends? is there a progressively larger gap? any suggestions on how to hide it?
Yes there is. With 5/8 of an inch in this situation, I wouldn't worry about it too much. It is backset 3 in from the face of the cabinet and it is facing the other run, so there is no way to get back far enough to see it. If it faced the room and you could get back farther to see it, it's more of an issue. If it's more significant like an inch or something across a long span, or you can back up farther and see it, I will split the difference and set one end to be a little bit lower and want to be a little bit higher so that the amount is not so dramatic at one side or the other.
Hi, I have just installed my ikea kitchen island utilizing your concept with 2x4's stacked x 3. It seems solid but has slight wobble front to back after leveling and securing ikea foot rests. Does this secure with a countertop? I did secure with 2 1/2 construction screws 1st 2x4 and continued with 2nd and 3rd 2x4. Secured cabinet bottom with 2 2 1/2 construction screws per cabinet. My island is 10 feet long but has a break for a dishwasher so created two sleeper bases on either side of dishwasher. Along with a sleeper base for a single 30" cabinet that is back to back with one of the island cabinets. The rest of the island cabinets will have a back panel as described in your video.
2nd question. Could I use the same sleeper base concept for the wall base cabinets along with the galvanized steel rail? How did you handle installing the wall base cabinets? Including tall pantry cabinets?
Thanks
Yes the weight of the top should help with the front to back wobble. Hopefully you have everything level and tight. Sometimes that happens though. As for the base cabinets and tall cabinets on the wall, no sleeper needed. Just use the steel suspension rail and it will be fine.
Thank you for your speedy reply. Yes, I leveled the cabinets about 8 times as I am new at this and only needed a few slim shims. I also connected the cabinets to each other nice and tight and flush (as you demonstrated) with 1.25" construction screws. The wobble is very minor, Im just confirming. I will us the steel suspension rail as you advised despite my husband and fathers paranoia. :) Unless I am strong-armed out of it. lol Thanks for your video btw..I actually tried the frame first for the cabinets and really had a hard time with the measurements..it needs to be so exact..so this was a relief!
@@winte021 I know this is 4 months late but I built 2 rental house kitchens with the suspension rail system and LOVED it. They're now 2 years old and holding up great (with granite counters).
One thing nobody can explain to me is why ikea's very own island intsallation brackets are 3.5 inches high. This puts the island at the wrong height for their plinth mouldings, and dishwashers and the countertops. Why do they sell them?
No idea. But that's why we have this video for you!
I've wondered the same thing. the kick plate doesn't work with the 3.5" high board/brackets. It doesn't make sense and I've not found an answer online anywhere.
If I use 3 sleeper wood 2*4. ThAt means I have added 6 inch height but the ikea legs can have maximum 5 inch. Can someone explain how that works.. also isn’t it better to have two sets of sleeper base one at the frond and one at back to reduce wobble
Three 2x4 equals 4.5". Two sleeper base makes it harder to level. Not recommended.
Pro Kitchen Builders Thank you!! Yes, now I remember reading aomewhere else also that 2*4 is actually 1.5 inches and not 2. Anyway, great video. Helps a lot.
Thanks for posting. But I need to find out how to connect island sections back-to-back.
Put a board in between and use the included hardware to attach to the board.
Did you use 1" or 1.25" star screws to attached the cabinets to each other? Great vid, thanks for posting.
brosiferous 1 1/4
thanks for the quick reply! We used 1.25's for everything save the fridgecover panel. Great vid, thanks again for helping DIYers like me get this done right. Cheers.
What is the purpose of the sleeper base if the cabinets come with adjustable legs?
To secure it to the floor. There has to be way to lock the island in place. It will not just sit there on its own.
150mm x 5 screws 4 per cabinate through into the floor. solid never moves and still adjustable.
I fit IKEA kitchens for a living so this is a tried and trusted method
@@leedavies7580 thanks for the tip. I'll give it a shot. Probably not good for concrete floors however...
@@prokitchenbuilders so it is just to fix it to the floor? not to hold more weight of the granite or marble?
if so doesn't ikea has special support brackets for kitchen islands? and wouldn't this be enough
www.ikea.com/us/en/p/sektion-support-bracket-for-kitchen-island-00298406/
@@Jessicaro No those aren't necessary. The legs support the weight of the counter no problem.
Have you had any issues with the cabinet warping because sleeper wood expanded and contracts due to temp fluctuations while the plastic legs do not?
No
how do you remove toe kicks off of ikea cabinets?
P.tly grab them and pull. They are attached to the legs with plastic clips
but when they are flush against the cabinet/floor, how do you grab them? Is there supposed to be a tab or something to pull on?
Use a small hooked poker tool, coat hanger or other similar item to slip in over the top and pull
Thanks.
Why not level the sleeper first?
No need. Makes the job harder and longer. Leveling should be done by legs.
@@prokitchenbuilders Thanks. But it just seemed it would be easier to get the sleeper level before the cabinets are on top instead of shimming underneath the cabinets. Do you use a similar technique if installing base cabinets on the wall? Do you use the suspension rail? I just put a small L kitchenette in my basement playroom. It was agonizing getting those rails lined up around the corner even with a laser line. Had to move one of them 3 or 4 times (loosening and then tightening the screws, thankfully, rather than reinstalling the whole thing).
No, leveling the sleeper increases the difficulty for many reasons. The reason for the shims in this video was to keep the bottom of the cabinet from deflecting when screwed down tight to the base. The shims have nothing to do with leveling. Since making this video I have stopped using them all together. Yes we use the rail to install cabinets to the wall and yes use a laser level. The installation of the rail requires some skill to make level and flat everywhere. This is what I get paid for.
So does he have foundation issues or what? How could the floor be off that much in five feet
Very common for that much or more in old houses like this
what do you do about the countertop? it's narrower(25.6") than the panels(26").
How did you secure the side wood coloured panel ?
1 1/4" screws from the inside of the cabinet.