I would not use that much grease on all the parts. A lithium soap grease is okay on the sliders, but I use a very small amount of neverseize or copper coloured grease on the faces of the pads in the holders and on the wheel lug bolts. On the rotor in contact with the rim I use a white thermal transfer paste, this not only stops the rust it helps suck heat out of the rotors into the rim. If you in the UK where rust is a problem then I would definitely be using a grease on the wheel lug bolts.
Great vid, makes it look relatively easy - I have to change my pads, I have a similar lip on the rotors and assume they are original at 79k miles. I can get a set of Meyle front / rear discs and pads for a good deal, so is it worth replacing the discs at the same time? (im no mechanic, I will attempt pads, but will not try discs so will get a mechanic to fit all if I get the rotors/discs too)
I think the term "Grease" in this video is a little bit misleading. There are specific products designed for specific applications illustrated in this DIY video. For example, LiquiMoly offers a product called Brake Anti-Squeal Paste which is ideal for using on the back of the brake pads, and any general copper anti-seize product is what should be used on the wheel bolts. Different greases/pastes have different applications and using the wrong one could have undesirable results.
does anybody know how to replace brake pressure sensors on a e46 ? stupid traction control light came on and handbrake light after replacing all brake rotors and pads and brake flex lines .
your Video was very helpful. i have a question for you, i change out my brake pad and rotor over the weekend on my 2008 328i, but now every time i step on the brake it's super light, did i do something wrong.
+Phuc Mac You should check on a empty road if all 4 wheel seems to brake and car is not pulling to one side. If you havent removed the rust protection on the rotors that might explain why the breaks are not fully functional.
sohail fartaj bmw has a sheet specifying that they are different on both wheels, one is blue , the other is grey. If you buy them on ebay they will all look the same though
Really good video.Well done. But if you are going to replace the brake pads, it makes sense to replace the rotors also. It's not that much more, even for BMW. Maybe you can add one for that.
as mentioned before, I dont work under the car with jacks, then I go to a DIY shop with a pro lift. Gloves and safety glasses are also good but will I wear them, No
+Patrick Martin if using the wrong lubricant there is a chance it will damage the rubber boots and sealing plus PVC....so only use a lubricant without petroleum, like acid free silicone grease.
Milí pane ,pri takejto realizácii opravy vám odporucam vymeniť aj brzdový kotúč lebo vám nové platničky nebudú dobre sedieť na starom kotuči ktorý ste tam nechali. Odporucam výmenu brzdové platničky + brzdoví kotúč
Hi there, this may seem a stupid question, I'm also sorry if it's already been asked but what about the wear sensors? where are they and do they need replacing when the pads are changed? Thanks for the video =)
The wear sensor only has to be replaced if the brake light in the instrument cluster has started to light.. There are 2 sensors, one on the front left brake and one on the rear right brake. Very easy to replace...just pull the wire and it will come lose. To reset the brake light after a sensor has triggered it...you must turn the ignition to 2 but NOT crank the engine...let it be there for 1 one minute and the light will be cleared.
I use cupper grease. No BMW has no recommendation for this.....but it looks terrible with rust residues running down on the rims when rain and corrosion starts to tear on the bolts and hub
Think you will find that greasing wheel nuts in not recommended. If you do it will effect the torque settings. Just a point...copper antisieze compound is just that...it's not a grease per se and should not confer any 'lubrication' properties. But read the label...as stuff changes.
supersesqui its not mentioned at all. I know what you mean...greasing the pins will increase the force...maybe even double it....but in real the window of torque before the bolt will be overtightned is large...and on an old E46 the bolts are really running hard without lubrication. If you are really into proper tightening forces...actually you can only use a bolt one time....next time you tighten it..the force might be 30 % lower by same 100 Nm or torque,,,,but thats a long and complicated theory behind.....Those rusty bolts I have are most certainly not having the same force when tightned with 100 Nm as a new bolt, most of the force will be lost in the corrosion of the threads, so lubracating the nuts will only increase the force...and so far I have never broken a bolt this way
+BMW 3 Series Can you please tell me is the expansion tank on e46 fault issue problem on this model or all bmw's if so why hasn't bmw done nothing to fix it
BMW 3 Series Thanks for the reply. My right-front retainer crew was seized into the hub assembly. I tried an extractor, but the extractor broke! Had to drill it out as you did. This happened three days ago! I have no issues with balance either.
Kérem ne haragudjon rám! Tanulni akartam, de rájöttem, hogy én ennél sokkal jobban tudom csinálni. A féktárcsa csavarját nem kell lefúrni!!! Ha kéri, leírom hogy kell kivenni. Több hiba van a videón.
Yes the rubber was damaged. I just didn't have a replacement there when I shot the video.Using a clamp to push the piston back works fine for me. Done this a million times on many different cars
jak patrze na twoją robotę majster to mnie krew zalewa pakujesz pełno mazidła klocki młotkiem wbijasz nie stać cię na nowe tarczę te już nie nadają na nowe klocki.
You do not put grease on back of pads these days thats what the shim is on the back to stop brake squeal … smear bit on if makes ya feel better but the amount you put on is shocking ….nor do you put it around the side of the piston what you done… only place grease goes is on the slider pins
shaun douglas Most work on a car is done with a certain amount of risk. If you have a bad feeling about a repair, then don't do it. I don't work under the car as I have a pro. lift for this. The risk I take is, the car would drop 30 cm to the ground still with open wheel arch. Working with jack stands also includes ricks....personally I would never take my body under a car using jack stands or this hydaulic lift I have in the video. I would only go under a car using the pro. lift. The risk taken here is similar to changing wheel using the cars own jack.....again, if you feel unsafe by doing a certain repair, you shouldn't go into it. Another fact is, using jack stands would require me to lift the car much higher...which I don't want as this would require a much larger hydraulic lift.
grease them all you want. if you torque them to specs they will stay there, no problem. I've been greasing my bold for ages. In countries like Denmark where its moist, and use a lot of salt in the winter, they will cold weld unless you use anti-seize compounds, like copper paste or in this case something that looks like lithium based grease, or any other type of high temperature grease.
да не напартачиш там делов то на 10 минут .если нет приблуды для того чтоб вогнать доконца поршень обратно в цилиндер то перед тем как снять колодки можно сразу развести колодки .вставь в отверстиев супорте отвертку плоскую и упераясь в колодку или диск раздвинь колодки на максимум потом все по схеме снял колодки почистел супорт хорошо, там где колодки прилегают до метала .Лучше конешно снять направляющую колодку и пройтись кругом с металической счеткой НА ДРЕЛИ чтоб убрать корозию потом смазать все смазкой для тормозной системы и собрать .супорт должен нормально руками установится обратно. если только колодки не касячные .все просто И НЕ ЗАБУДЬ УРОВЕНЬ ЖИДКОСТИ ПРОВЕРИТЬ ПОТОМУ-ЧТО КОГДА БУДЕШ ПОРШЕНЬ ВДАВЛИВАТЬ УРОВЕНЬ ЖИДКОСТИ БУДЕТ ПОДНИМАТЬСЯ ПРОСТО ЧТОБ НЕ ПООБЛИВАТЬ ВСЕ ЕСЛИ ЧТО ОТКАЧАЙ ЛИШНЮЮ ШПРИЦОМ .
+Mark Bohannan why will you change rotors every time you change brage pads?! its like buying new rims every time you change your tires! doesnt have any sense at all
Great video. Quick tip, if you compress the piston before removing the caliper, it will come off much easier.
Thanks a lot for the video. I have to admit that I can appreciate you take some time for petting your dog in between tasks :)
Thank you for the very informative video. I will be trying to replace my brake pads this weekend with the help of your instructions. Wish me luck :)
perfect timing to make this video i need to change mine this week !
Thanks a lot . I did mine today but without the copper grease ,, all goes well .
this helped a lot. thank you ! and also nice dog :) keep up the great work
Great video, thanks. I'm going to try this.
The dog was like let me halp. XD
Cheers,
Helped me out heaps
Sensational - ready to do mine now
Those pads look fine.
I would not use that much grease on all the parts. A lithium soap grease is okay on the sliders, but I use a very small amount of neverseize or copper coloured grease on the faces of the pads in the holders and on the wheel lug bolts. On the rotor in contact with the rim I use a white thermal transfer paste, this not only stops the rust it helps suck heat out of the rotors into the rim. If you in the UK where rust is a problem then I would definitely be using a grease on the wheel lug bolts.
THANK YOU GREAT VIDEO.
Great job mate brilliant thank you very much
Great vid, makes it look relatively easy - I have to change my pads, I have a similar lip on the rotors and assume they are original at 79k miles. I can get a set of Meyle front / rear discs and pads for a good deal, so is it worth replacing the discs at the same time? (im no mechanic, I will attempt pads, but will not try discs so will get a mechanic to fit all if I get the rotors/discs too)
Thanks..... Cute dog!
What kind of coveralls are those?
can you link the equipment used?
My light just went on and am not too excited about doing this
Hvad kan jeg gøre hvis skruerne til mine kalibrer er rustet fast? Min håndbremse har sat sig, kan du hjælpe?
Tak
I think the term "Grease" in this video is a little bit misleading. There are specific products designed for specific applications illustrated in this DIY video. For example, LiquiMoly offers a product called Brake Anti-Squeal Paste which is ideal for using on the back of the brake pads, and any general copper anti-seize product is what should be used on the wheel bolts. Different greases/pastes have different applications and using the wrong one could have undesirable results.
Nicholas Herbst not to mention that if too much is applied, it can leak onto the rotors
What type of grease is that you're putting over the piston and pads?
How much will be the labour charge for disc pad + replacing cost in Bmw Genuine service centers ?
does anybody know how to replace brake pressure sensors on a e46 ? stupid traction control light came on and handbrake light after replacing all brake rotors and pads and brake flex lines .
your Video was very helpful. i have a question for you, i change out my brake pad and rotor over the weekend on my 2008 328i, but now every time i step on the brake it's super light, did i do something wrong.
+Phuc Mac You should check on a empty road if all 4 wheel seems to brake and car is not pulling to one side. If you havent removed the rust protection on the rotors that might explain why the breaks are not fully functional.
i tested after the install car, seem to stop find beside the light pedal, and i've replace all 4 rotor with new one during the install.
i would like to know if i can put an ABS sensor of the rear left to the right rear one or have to buy a right rear specially
sohail fartaj bmw has a sheet specifying that they are different on both wheels, one is blue , the other is grey. If you buy them on ebay they will all look the same though
at 12:30 when tightening up the top bolt.....caliper out of position. Then jumps nicely to correct position and doing lower bolt. Nice editing :)
Really good video.Well done. But if you are going to replace the brake pads, it makes sense to replace the rotors also. It's not that much more, even for BMW. Maybe you can add one for that.
Great
I'm confused why you undone the brake disc (rotor)
Axle stands are good for safety
as mentioned before, I dont work under the car with jacks, then I go to a DIY shop with a pro lift. Gloves and safety glasses are also good but will I wear them, No
nice vid. Why did you removed the brake disk on the left side ? On the right side you didn´t.
I did both, but only recorded on one side
What size Hex is for the slide pins?
Bentley manual says not to lubricate guide bolds for the caliper - why not?
+Patrick Martin if using the wrong lubricant there is a chance it will damage the rubber boots and sealing plus PVC....so only use a lubricant without petroleum, like acid free silicone grease.
great....
is it ok ? not cut the rotor
Milí pane ,pri takejto realizácii opravy vám odporucam vymeniť aj brzdový kotúč lebo vám nové platničky nebudú dobre sedieť na starom kotuči ktorý ste tam nechali. Odporucam výmenu brzdové platničky + brzdoví kotúč
Nice video! do you know how much a set of OEM BMW brake front pads cost?
Jason.. Is this your first time on the internet? My gawd man.. Google is your best friend!!!
Amargo Morales I know.. but I just wanted to know how much this guy paid.. sorry for my stupidity
+Amargo Morales 😂
@@jasonl5589 +1☺
nice do i need to take handbrake off to do rear discs
No you dont have to. Just pull it off
Hi there, this may seem a stupid question, I'm also sorry if it's already been asked but what about the wear sensors? where are they and do they need replacing when the pads are changed? Thanks for the video =)
The wear sensor only has to be replaced if the brake light in the instrument cluster has started to light.. There are 2 sensors, one on the front left brake and one on the rear right brake. Very easy to replace...just pull the wire and it will come lose. To reset the brake light after a sensor has triggered it...you must turn the ignition to 2 but NOT crank the engine...let it be there for 1 one minute and the light will be cleared.
BMW 3 Series I think the door has to be open also doesn't it? To clear the light
Which grease ?
Does BMW recommend greasing wheel bolts ?
I use cupper grease. No BMW has no recommendation for this.....but it looks terrible with rust residues running down on the rims when rain and corrosion starts to tear on the bolts and hub
Think you will find that greasing wheel nuts in not recommended.
If you do it will effect the torque settings.
Just a point...copper antisieze compound is just that...it's not a grease per se and should not confer any 'lubrication' properties.
But read the label...as stuff changes.
supersesqui its not mentioned at all. I know what you mean...greasing the pins will increase the force...maybe even double it....but in real the window of torque before the bolt will be overtightned is large...and on an old E46 the bolts are really running hard without lubrication. If you are really into proper tightening forces...actually you can only use a bolt one time....next time you tighten it..the force might be 30 % lower by same 100 Nm or torque,,,,but thats a long and complicated theory behind.....Those rusty bolts I have are most certainly not having the same force when tightned with 100 Nm as a new bolt, most of the force will be lost in the corrosion of the threads, so lubracating the nuts will only increase the force...and so far I have never broken a bolt this way
Up to you what you decide to do.
cheers
Nice video! Are you a member of BMW Club Denmark?
Regards from Kolding :-)
Apostrofix Hi, no i'm not a member of that club. Too old for that :-) Regards from Als
I thought the brakes would need to be bled as well when compressing the piston into the boot?
No its a closed system so thats not necessary
مببدع
How does greasing the back of the pads prevent squeal?
Can't say.....it just does :-)Maybe by dampening the vibration of the pad
+BMW 3 Series Can you please tell me is the expansion tank on e46 fault issue problem on this model or all bmw's if so why hasn't bmw done nothing to fix it
With the retainer screw drilled out, did you experience any balance issues while rolling at speed?
Jason Hupfer None at all. The screw is only there to keep the rotor in place during service
BMW 3 Series Thanks for the reply. My right-front retainer crew was seized into the hub assembly. I tried an extractor, but the extractor broke! Had to drill it out as you did. This happened three days ago! I have no issues with balance either.
Why grease the back side brake pads?
To avoid sqeeickie sounds from the brake pads
Why carnt a garage do this ? Pleas answer I answer
because car guy
What are the tools needed for this job?
I know how to use them but I want to know sizes and names so I can go buy them
@@alejandrozamora5247 you should have all basic tools before even starting to work on cars
What engine is that?
320d N47TU 2.0
Kérem ne haragudjon rám!
Tanulni akartam, de rájöttem, hogy én ennél sokkal jobban tudom csinálni. A féktárcsa csavarját nem kell lefúrni!!! Ha kéri, leírom hogy kell kivenni.
Több hiba van a videón.
What is the name of those wheels?
Sorry don't know. But its some BMW M3
BMW light alloy wheel, cross spoke 42
7JX16 ET:46
$277 / each, brand new
$169 / each on ebay
Should not need to use a hammer to put caliper back on
the rubber damage .. that one need to change.. and you put wrong posision for press the piston
Im sorry if I write wrong
But thanks for teach
Yes the rubber was damaged. I just didn't have a replacement there when I shot the video.Using a clamp to push the piston back works fine for me. Done this a million times on many different cars
U can use old brake pad for protect rubber when u push with clamps .. that one same for BMW 320i ..
jak patrze na twoją robotę majster to mnie krew zalewa pakujesz pełno mazidła klocki młotkiem wbijasz nie stać cię na nowe tarczę te już nie nadają na nowe klocki.
You do not put grease on back of pads these days thats what the shim is on the back to stop brake squeal … smear bit on if makes ya feel better but the amount you put on is shocking ….nor do you put it around the side of the piston what you done… only place grease goes is on the slider pins
Why don't you do some commentary as you film? Could save alot of questions people have.
Is that your brake changing outfit? Would be better if you told me what size of what socket you used for what bolt. Thanks for the video, though.
great video,but the car is 1.4 tonnes not 1
he didnt lift the whole car, did he? he only lifted 1/4 of the car, at most.
Dumb, the car has 1/4 of the weight each wheel.
You need to replace your brack discs to
ice man not really
Did you see that no-nonsense entry? This guy fucks
USE JACK STANDS. That is completely unsafe.
Thats your opinion. Besides I would never work under a car not using a pro lift. Check my other videos.
I agree with Bill. Safe practice
shaun douglas Most work on a car is done with a certain amount of risk. If you have a bad feeling about a repair, then don't do it. I don't work under the car as I have a pro. lift for this. The risk I take is, the car would drop 30 cm to the ground still with open wheel arch. Working with jack stands also includes ricks....personally I would never take my body under a car using jack stands or this hydaulic lift I have in the video. I would only go under a car using the pro. lift.
The risk taken here is similar to changing wheel using the cars own jack.....again, if you feel unsafe by doing a certain repair, you shouldn't go into it.
Another fact is, using jack stands would require me to lift the car much higher...which I don't want as this would require a much larger hydraulic lift.
In Poland we just put the wheel right behind the lift.
Never lubricate wheel bolt !
@Olli they wont torq right if greased
DO NOT GREASE YOUR WHEEL LUGNUTS UNLESS YOU WANNA SEE YOUR TIRE PASS YOU BY ON THE FREEWAY LOL
grease them all you want. if you torque them to specs they will stay there, no problem. I've been greasing my bold for ages. In countries like Denmark where its moist, and use a lot of salt in the winter, they will cold weld unless you use anti-seize compounds, like copper paste or in this case something that looks like lithium based grease, or any other type of high temperature grease.
Next time fot your safety use an axle stand , so dangerous
Ďalšia vec je tá že ste po výmene neodvzdušnili brzdový system
Picovina
Neodporúčam toto video ako správny postup opravy brzdoveho systému!!
😂
cowboy
je suis frazncais
ты по голове себе кувалдой побей .Что не судьба целиндрик
раздвинуть вот так и ломают машины а потом в сервис бегут
чеслав грибовский
можно по подробнее у себя скоро буду менять не хочу напортачить
да не напартачиш там делов то на 10 минут .если нет приблуды для того чтоб вогнать доконца поршень обратно в цилиндер то перед тем как снять колодки можно сразу развести колодки .вставь в отверстиев супорте отвертку плоскую и упераясь в колодку или диск раздвинь колодки на максимум потом все по схеме снял колодки почистел супорт хорошо, там где колодки прилегают до метала .Лучше конешно снять направляющую колодку и пройтись кругом с металической счеткой НА ДРЕЛИ чтоб убрать корозию потом смазать все смазкой для тормозной системы и собрать .супорт должен нормально руками установится обратно. если только колодки не касячные .все просто И НЕ ЗАБУДЬ УРОВЕНЬ ЖИДКОСТИ ПРОВЕРИТЬ ПОТОМУ-ЧТО КОГДА БУДЕШ ПОРШЕНЬ ВДАВЛИВАТЬ УРОВЕНЬ ЖИДКОСТИ БУДЕТ ПОДНИМАТЬСЯ ПРОСТО ЧТОБ НЕ ПООБЛИВАТЬ ВСЕ ЕСЛИ ЧТО ОТКАЧАЙ ЛИШНЮЮ ШПРИЦОМ .
ЭТО МОЙ АК ФТОРОЙ ПОЭТОМУ КАКОС НАСОС
this is the incorrect way to change your brakes. take the caliper completly off and replace the rotors with the brake change
It's not incorrect at all. You do not need to change the rotors every time you change the brake pads.
+Mark Bohannan Your an idiot, stop posting stupid things and misleading people.
+stan clark sorry safety is my number one priority
+Mark Bohannan why will you change rotors every time you change brage pads?! its like buying new rims every time you change your tires! doesnt have any sense at all
Mark -- you're an idiot.