The number of times I found techs not understanding that air flow around units was important. It important to show client the importance of maintaining clear and even take steps to stop storage around units. As you say one must look at the BIG picture.👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏 you are doing a great job.
Thank you for teaching me needed to get back after a lady rear ended my work truck being out for 3 years after back surgery . You are a awesome teacher. God blessed you and your family
We have these in our bars all across the country. The charge is very critical so awesome pointing that out. Anytime pressures are slightly off our vendors typically recover and weigh in. Love how specific you are on these videos.
As I watch all of your videos I try to troubleshoot along with you and come up with the problem I'm HVAC Tech with 26 years experience ( semi retired now ) I like your trouble shooting very systematic and precise great videos
Awesome video. I work at a chicken plant as a refrigeration tech and we use glycol to cool our compressors. we have about 12 compressors. Can't wait until the next video!
I start my second refrigeration job here soon, worked with ammonia for a short time but I took a service tech position thought I would learn much more.. plus better company and pay. They work on glycol units often which I haven't that much, this is really solid stuff you earned a sub. Thanks
I stumbled across your channel today and I’ve been binge watching your videos ALL DAY LONG! You make Fantastic videos! Great job and keep it up HVACR VIDEOS!
Good job dude. You probably know a little more than me, but I can still give you a tip or two. When you sodder(you're not brazing with that much silver), cleanliness is everything, and you should try to use capillary action when doing so. I noticed you had your flame aimed directly towards the areas you were trying to put the sodder, instead: have you heat at the backend of the fittings or away from but in the direction you want the sodder to flow. So if you are putting a 90 on some pipe the easiest way is to heat the bend in the 90 while added the sodder to the joints.
Chris, Great videos with tons of valuable information. I'm currently training to be an HVAC service technician at a very reputable company and I've learned plenty watching your videos. Keep up the great work and keep it coming with the useful info. You da man! Thanks brother and God bless! Lee
Noice dude. Good job. I was feeling you on that suction braze being stubborn. That rotolock trick you showed will now go into my bag of tricks. Thanks!!
1st time writing. Love your videos. Anyway I see you had trouble soldering that last joint. I like to start soldering up to down. Noticed that I'd cook the flux like you did whenever I'd solder starting down to up. Again good work.👍
I know right...... I will be going live on UA-cam this evening 7/29/19 @5:PM pacific time to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions form emails, the chat, and UA-cam comments. Come check it out if you can..... ua-cam.com/video/4Owpb0SpUJM/v-deo.html
Where you installed the bushing , would a sweage outside been right size ? I carried a old can #10 size top n bottom out cut up side, nice flame n flux drip background , slipped in by tanks. Good videos, lots of cool tools in last 15 years I see.
Copper to steel I also use 56 percent, sometimes 45. When using the roll, I flux the fitting and dip the solder into the brazing flux a couple of inches. Gives me better flow. I don't buy the flux coated rods very often unless I have to do larger pipes. After they vibrate and bounce around in the truck for months the coating starts breaking off.
I would like to have seen you swage that line and the decision as witch line to swage.trying to learn hvac now and just that little stuff you seasoned techs naturally do as it is second nature .your videos are excellent very informative.
It doesn't matter which side of tubing you swage. You're just trying to avoid using a coupling. If you haven't seen the hilmor hydraulic swage, check it out. Great for tight spaces. Hope this helps.
I know this is an old comment, but personally I like to swage the line I'm adding if I'm adding one that way I can clean any debris or shavings out of the line that could be created with the swaging process. If you swage the line that's permanently fixed to the unit it's hard to inspect and clean out. However this practice isn't always possible depends on the application and location.
They do the same thing with cars now, too. Dont get the proper receiver/accumulator anymore, just a little piss-ant drier in the suction line if your lucky, and a couple farts worth of R134a for the charge.
I will discuss this on my Live Stream this evening 1-11-21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on UA-cam come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/H9NRDsb_1zQ/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching bud, I will be going live on UA-cam this evening 1/13/20 @ 5:PM (pacific time) to discuss my most recent uploads come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/YS0nIkCyXNE/v-deo.html
Could you explain tonight on your live stream why? Compressors. Start and run caps. Are thay both on the start winding? Why? I thought a run cap was on the run winding. Is it not? Seams like it threw a wiring diagram. Then a 5 2 1 and a 3 2 1 start kit is on the start winding and I thought they kicked out after less than a second. Then why is a run cap on the start winding and not kick out? See I'm lost. Please please explain. Thanks Chris.
I service these units almost everyday and the most common problem I have is trying to get the bar back not to cover the unit in boxes lol other then that great units
Very nice. What are the benefits of an automatic expansion valve like that rather than a Thermostatic expansion valve? I mainly work on industrial cooling equipment like water cooled chillers, 5-100 ton air cooled chillers, and cooling towers. I only run into TXV's and EEVs that try to maintain a constant superheat.
I got a question my portable Air conditioner the compressor is covered in a Sound Blanket I think it's stupid more heat = les lifetime wat do you think
The problem with using Sil-Fos or any other copper-silver-phosphorous alloy is the phosphorous. With copper to copper the phosphorous acts as the flux, which is why no other flux is needed (unless you are brazing copper to brass or brass to brass - you can use Sil-Fos, but you also have to use white flux). The phosphorous also lowers the melting temp of the alloy. Unfortunately, phosphorous reacts badly with iron or nickel. In this case the Rotolock is made if nickel plated steel, so it wouldn't matter if you tried to braze to the plating (which is typical) or sand the plating away and braze to the steel, it would fail. What happens is that the phosphorous in the Sil-Fos reacts with iron or nickel to create iron phosphide or nicke phosphide. The phosphides are VERY brittle intermetallic compounds, and they form a thin layer on the base metal creating a thin, brittle layer between the base metal and the braze alloy. If it doesn't crack upon cooling, it will do so in service in short order. Normally it cracks on cooling due to the shrinkage stress created by the copper in the fitting. Copper shrinks more than steel on cooling, so it simply shrinks away from the steel, breaking loose at the phosphide layer. 56% or 45% silver braze alloys are the standard for brazing to steel or nickel (or stainless, but then a black flux is needed). Most guys and shops buy 45% because it's cheaper, but 56% flows the best, which is good if the fitting has the proper clearance (.001"-.006") but sucks if the fit is too loose. If I find the fit is to loose, which is frequently the case, then I will slightly swage the copper with my Hilmor to get the proper fit. FWIW, you can also use a refrigeration service rated soft solder like Stay-Brite or Stay-Brite 8, with Stay-Clean flux of course. I've done this a couple times in the past when I realized I was out of 56%. Those systems are still running to this day. No issues, the solder fillets look really nice, and no heat paste or wet rags wrapped around the valve is needed. Nor is a nitrogen purge (which I didn't see this guy use... hmm...). Do NOT use any kind of regular plumbing solder like 95-5 and such. It will crack and leak. Lots of guys in the trade poo-poo soft solder on refrigeration joints, but Harris developed the Stay-Brite silver-bearing soft solders specifically for this use, and my experience with them has been that they work as advertised. As long as you get proper penetration and don't overheat the joint the stuff works and is reliable. Now, all that said, I still braze whenever possible. I only use Stay-Brite for a sensitive joint where heat control is a problem, on filter-driers where I know I will have to replace them soon, or in a pinch when I realize I didn't re-stock my 56%.
Hey Chris, question? I'm sure it doesnt quite matter or may just be preference over anything else. My question is about filter driers. I see most techs use Catch All (Sporlan) driers, Emerson and Muller have some as well are any of those any better or does it matter? Just want to hear another techs point of view? You may even have a little more insight? Thanks
Bad install, left one blowing hot discharge into right one.. that install needs ceiling exhaust fans and some baffling..but you sussed that out already Chris,, good repair...
HVACR VIDEOS The proper size wrench, or crescent wrench if absolutely necessary, never channels. Kind of a thing for proper tool for the job, probably stems back to my apprentice days, Journeyman would’ve rode me hard for that one.
HVACR VIDEOS Ok, we’ll enjoy using your channels then, I’ll keep enjoying using the correct tools. I can use channels to pull a fuse, until that one time I damage one, by not using the right tool. I can use channels to tighten up a roto lock without backing it up, until I kink a pipe, by not using the right tool. Not a personal attack on your work, just an observation. Sometimes those critiques make us better.
No offense taken, I totally understand when people dont use tools properly and how that messes stuff up. I'm always looking for feedback ..... and I appreciate you taking the time to leave some :-)
Have no HVAC experience or anything but seriously love watching your videos! Keep up the awesome work!
The number of times I found techs not understanding that air flow around units was important. It important to show client the importance of maintaining clear and even take steps to stop storage around units. As you say one must look at the BIG picture.👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏 you are doing a great job.
Thank you for teaching me needed to get back after a lady rear ended my work truck being out for 3 years after back surgery . You are a awesome teacher. God blessed you and your family
I like watching your shows, because you don't talk crap on others which is good character.
We have these in our bars all across the country. The charge is very critical so awesome pointing that out. Anytime pressures are slightly off our vendors typically recover and weigh in.
Love how specific you are on these videos.
As I watch all of your videos I try to troubleshoot along with you and come up with the problem I'm HVAC Tech with 26 years experience ( semi retired now ) I like your trouble shooting very systematic and precise great videos
I have been a service technician for over 30+ years working with many other technicians and I can professionally say you are the best!
I like that you show your work and explain what you’re doing 👌
Awesome video. I work at a chicken plant as a refrigeration tech and we use glycol to cool our compressors. we have about 12 compressors. Can't wait until the next video!
Stealing my name?
I start my second refrigeration job here soon, worked with ammonia for a short time but I took a service tech position thought I would learn much more.. plus better company and pay. They work on glycol units often which I haven't that much, this is really solid stuff you earned a sub. Thanks
Thanks bud
I bloody hate them coated rods as well , thanks for the tip on tightening the rotor lock valve, never thought of it cause I'm so smart 😣
I stumbled across your channel today and I’ve been binge watching your videos ALL DAY LONG! You make Fantastic videos! Great job and keep it up HVACR VIDEOS!
Thanks bud!
Good job dude. You probably know a little more than me, but I can still give you a tip or two. When you sodder(you're not brazing with that much silver), cleanliness is everything, and you should try to use capillary action when doing so. I noticed you had your flame aimed directly towards the areas you were trying to put the sodder, instead: have you heat at the backend of the fittings or away from but in the direction you want the sodder to flow. So if you are putting a 90 on some pipe the easiest way is to heat the bend in the 90 while added the sodder to the joints.
Chris,
Great videos with tons of valuable information. I'm currently training to be an HVAC service technician at a very reputable company and I've learned plenty watching your videos. Keep up the great work and keep it coming with the useful info. You da man! Thanks brother and God bless!
Lee
Noice dude. Good job. I was feeling you on that suction braze being stubborn. That rotolock trick you showed will now go into my bag of tricks. Thanks!!
1st time writing. Love your videos. Anyway I see you had trouble soldering that last joint. I like to start soldering up to down.
Noticed that I'd cook the flux like you did whenever I'd solder starting down to up.
Again good work.👍
I saw a old man in town with a hump in his back and thought yep he must be a retired AC man!😂
I love that the fact that every time I watch your new video you have more subs then the last vid
Nice work! The amount of oil lost is not significant? Or that was added off camera?
I wish all my calls showed up on a visual. Nice job...
I know right...... I will be going live on UA-cam this evening 7/29/19 @5:PM pacific time to discuss my most recent uploads and answer questions form emails, the chat, and UA-cam comments. Come check it out if you can..... ua-cam.com/video/4Owpb0SpUJM/v-deo.html
Nice tip with the nylog and the back side of the nut. I do the same thing on all flares. Really helps to get them nice and tight.
Good stuff Chris . I did A compressor for a beer keg cooler last week. Good stuff .
Man I really enjoy your videos. Well explained. Keep up the great work. I wish I had your knowledge.
Where you installed the bushing , would a sweage outside been right size ?
I carried a old can #10 size top n bottom out cut up side, nice flame n flux drip background , slipped in by tanks.
Good videos, lots of cool tools in last 15 years I see.
Copper to steel I also use 56 percent, sometimes 45. When using the roll, I flux the fitting and dip the solder into the brazing flux a couple of inches. Gives me better flow. I don't buy the flux coated rods very often unless I have to do larger pipes. After they vibrate and bounce around in the truck for months the coating starts breaking off.
Good info on dipping makes sense I'm gonna try it
Great video Chris
Thanks
Once again top notch video high light of my lunch time these days fridge life !! Haha
Thanks bud
In general critical charge units don't require a receiver, TX yes.
Good video.
Nice, flexing that Milwaukee sharpie.
Do you have to put more oil in the unit if it loses that much?
Nah. Those compressors hold quite a bit of oil. It really doesn't take much oil to make a mess, so the overall volume lost wasn't really that much.
as always ... a great video!!!
Thanks Will
I love your videos. Keep up the good work.
I would like to have seen you swage that line and the decision as witch line to swage.trying to learn hvac now and just that little stuff you seasoned techs naturally do as it is second nature .your videos are excellent very informative.
It doesn't matter which side of tubing you swage. You're just trying to avoid using a coupling. If you haven't seen the hilmor hydraulic swage, check it out. Great for tight spaces. Hope this helps.
I know this is an old comment, but personally I like to swage the line I'm adding if I'm adding one that way I can clean any debris or shavings out of the line that could be created with the swaging process. If you swage the line that's permanently fixed to the unit it's hard to inspect and clean out. However this practice isn't always possible depends on the application and location.
They do the same thing with cars now, too. Dont get the proper receiver/accumulator anymore, just a little piss-ant drier in the suction line if your lucky, and a couple farts worth of R134a for the charge.
lol....
Great video! Would you need to add oil to the compressor as well? Or just refrigerant is enough?
I will discuss this on my Live Stream this evening 1-11-21 @ 5:PM (pacific) on UA-cam come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/H9NRDsb_1zQ/v-deo.html
What's your opinion on using a nitrogen purge when brazing these fittings.. What do you consider when deciding to purge or not
I have worked on ice machines at Long john silvers from west palm beach to key west fla.
Nice work right there
Thanks
Nice clean work.
Plus no bad camera work and he explains everything..
Thanks for watching bud, I will be going live on UA-cam this evening 1/13/20 @ 5:PM (pacific time) to discuss my most recent uploads come on over and check it out ua-cam.com/video/YS0nIkCyXNE/v-deo.html
Could you explain tonight on your live stream why? Compressors. Start and run caps. Are thay both on the start winding? Why? I thought a run cap was on the run winding. Is it not? Seams like it threw a wiring diagram. Then a 5 2 1 and a 3 2 1 start kit is on the start winding and I thought they kicked out after less than a second. Then why is a run cap on the start winding and not kick out? See I'm lost. Please please explain. Thanks Chris.
I service these units almost everyday and the most common problem I have is trying to get the bar back not to cover the unit in boxes lol other then that great units
put a barbwire cage around them :))
was there a nitrogen purge while welding?
was going to ask the same thing
Brazing*
Great video! What is your target temp for a beer line chiller like that? 39F?
nice job!! I liked how everything turned out!!
service excuse me, I have a question, what material you used to soldering the service valve and pipe, thanks lot beforehand
Very nice. What are the benefits of an automatic expansion valve like that rather than a Thermostatic expansion valve? I mainly work on industrial cooling equipment like water cooled chillers, 5-100 ton air cooled chillers, and cooling towers. I only run into TXV's and EEVs that try to maintain a constant superheat.
You ever do a video tour of your of work van?
So these things don't automatically shut off when they lose pressure and oil?
How bad does a leak have to be before you need to ck oil in compressor and add oil to the system with a leak?
great job thanks for sharing
7:51 when the metal dripped on that tube was that not a problem or???
I got a question my portable Air conditioner the compressor is covered in a Sound Blanket I think it's stupid more heat = les lifetime wat do you think
At what point is a leak bad enough and been leaking long enough that you might consider that the system may be low on oil?
If I saw more than a tablespoon of oil on a compressor this small I'd be worried
FWIW, we also will decline the oversized drier outlet lower than inlet to keep the liquid seal...who knows
Your approach is on this job. Is like special forces. Precision every time.
Why didn’t you get the correct size drier while you were at the supply house?
nice repair
You didn't need to flow nitrogen?
Great job and video 👍👍👍
I’m a new tech
Just wanted to ask why do you haft to use Flux? And why won’t regular sil-fos work?
The flux cleans any dirt or oxides of the pipe, so that the solder/brazing rod will stick.
And that it was not a simple copper copper connection...i think
the valve is steel. silfos is fine for copper to copper, but in this case you need 45 or 56% silver solder and that needs flux.
The problem with using Sil-Fos or any other copper-silver-phosphorous alloy is the phosphorous. With copper to copper the phosphorous acts as the flux, which is why no other flux is needed (unless you are brazing copper to brass or brass to brass - you can use Sil-Fos, but you also have to use white flux). The phosphorous also lowers the melting temp of the alloy. Unfortunately, phosphorous reacts badly with iron or nickel. In this case the Rotolock is made if nickel plated steel, so it wouldn't matter if you tried to braze to the plating (which is typical) or sand the plating away and braze to the steel, it would fail. What happens is that the phosphorous in the Sil-Fos reacts with iron or nickel to create iron phosphide or nicke phosphide. The phosphides are VERY brittle intermetallic compounds, and they form a thin layer on the base metal creating a thin, brittle layer between the base metal and the braze alloy. If it doesn't crack upon cooling, it will do so in service in short order. Normally it cracks on cooling due to the shrinkage stress created by the copper in the fitting. Copper shrinks more than steel on cooling, so it simply shrinks away from the steel, breaking loose at the phosphide layer.
56% or 45% silver braze alloys are the standard for brazing to steel or nickel (or stainless, but then a black flux is needed). Most guys and shops buy 45% because it's cheaper, but 56% flows the best, which is good if the fitting has the proper clearance (.001"-.006") but sucks if the fit is too loose. If I find the fit is to loose, which is frequently the case, then I will slightly swage the copper with my Hilmor to get the proper fit.
FWIW, you can also use a refrigeration service rated soft solder like Stay-Brite or Stay-Brite 8, with Stay-Clean flux of course. I've done this a couple times in the past when I realized I was out of 56%. Those systems are still running to this day. No issues, the solder fillets look really nice, and no heat paste or wet rags wrapped around the valve is needed. Nor is a nitrogen purge (which I didn't see this guy use... hmm...). Do NOT use any kind of regular plumbing solder like 95-5 and such. It will crack and leak. Lots of guys in the trade poo-poo soft solder on refrigeration joints, but Harris developed the Stay-Brite silver-bearing soft solders specifically for this use, and my experience with them has been that they work as advertised. As long as you get proper penetration and don't overheat the joint the stuff works and is reliable. Now, all that said, I still braze whenever possible. I only use Stay-Brite for a sensitive joint where heat control is a problem, on filter-driers where I know I will have to replace them soon, or in a pinch when I realize I didn't re-stock my 56%.
What # (tip)and wat pressure are on your rig. with silver.
u sound 1/2 asleep in ur old intro 🤣
Hey Chris, question? I'm sure it doesnt quite matter or may just be preference over anything else. My question is about filter driers. I see most techs use Catch All (Sporlan) driers, Emerson and Muller have some as well are any of those any better or does it matter? Just want to hear another techs point of view? You may even have a little more insight? Thanks
He is Sponsored by Sporlan.
What is the purpose of the liquid dryers ? I'm assuming it's an expansion chamber due to it's size?
The liquid dryers are there to remove any contamination or moisture in the refrigerant as I understood it.
Bad install, left one blowing hot discharge into right one.. that install needs ceiling exhaust fans and some baffling..but you sussed that out already Chris,, good repair...
Seems like there is quite abut of overlap with refrigeration and plumbing.
That is great your dad new this
I dont understand your comment here, did I mention my dad?
What is the app you where using on the tablet?
👍 do you ever repair leaks on the glycol lines themselves?
Is the TXV a sporlan?
I honestly dont know I didn't investigate it
Food service people have no regard for the equipment that is essential to there paycheck. I see it day in and day out. Good job.
their paycheck.
@@walterbrunswick thanks bubb.
3:38 some must did a bad job soldering
Nice work, Love your video ^_^
No sense it bulb on auto txt right?
correct its basically a capillary tube that is adjustable
I kind of want to use one of these to cool my computer...
Who is holding the camera
Yes dood is a beast...vids are brain food..
Was that mouse shit on top of the disconnects?
U didn't change the dryer
at 8:00 it looks like he is gonna burn his fingers off
👍
What type of refrigerant is it?
R-134a
Oh most standard refrigerant I see
That’s modern refrigerant
One unit blowing heat on the other one 🙈🙈🙈 this calls for a disaster
#247 Thumbs UP
2 glycol units
TIP AGAIN- TORCHING USE A ROSE BUD. ALWAYS WERE GLOVES AND GLASSES AND KEEP YOUR MOUTH SHUT. IT DOES NOT TASTE GOOD.
👍🙏🙏
MIne is not holding the set point. Too cold!
Anyone else cringe when he grabbed the roto lock with channels LoL
I'm confused what do you tighten a rotolock with?
HVACR VIDEOS The proper size wrench, or crescent wrench if absolutely necessary, never channels. Kind of a thing for proper tool for the job, probably stems back to my apprentice days, Journeyman would’ve rode me hard for that one.
Channel locks work just fine if used properly.
HVACR VIDEOS Ok, we’ll enjoy using your channels then, I’ll keep enjoying using the correct tools. I can use channels to pull a fuse, until that one time I damage one, by not using the right tool.
I can use channels to tighten up a roto lock without backing it up, until I kink a pipe, by not using the right tool.
Not a personal attack on your work, just an observation.
Sometimes those critiques make us better.
No offense taken, I totally understand when people dont use tools properly and how that messes stuff up. I'm always looking for feedback ..... and I appreciate you taking the time to leave some :-)
3 zones
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