DIY Carbon Fiber Trunk - Making the Fiberglass Mold - Part 2. (Ep. 56)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- The adventure continues
in this video, we get going on the molds for the trunk frame to make the part in carbon fiber. I'm trying out a bunch of new products this time based on viewer suggestions.
Composite Envisions
compositeenvis...
Black Tooling Polyester Gelcoat 1 Gallon
Plastic Spreader 4"
Fiberglass Surfacing Veil 50"/127cm Width 10 Mil
Fiberglass E-Glass Plain Weave 50"/127cm 9.41oz/ 319.05gsm Hexcel Style 7500 F16 Finish
Fiberglass E-Glass Plain Weave 50"/127cm 18oz/610 gsm Hexcel Style 7544 F16 Finish
Fiberglass E-Glass Plain Weave 50"/127cm 5.8oz/197gsm Hexcel Style 3733 F16 Finish
General Purpose Polyester Resin 1 gallon
Frekote 700-NC Industrial Mold Release
Please consider supporting the channel through our merchandise.
throttle-stop-...
Charlie here... fellow Canadian, out of Edmonton. Been binge watching your channel since last night. You're doing spectacular work, absolutely inspiring stuff. Don't know why you aren't over a million subs; your content is better than anything on Netflix. Keep rocking!
Thanks Charlie! I lived in Edmonton for a few years in the 90's. Loved it.
Have to like for the BOM mug!
Awesome to see a new episode on the old Volvo. You are learning by leaps and bounds with this mold making and carbon fiber layup thing. Mold looks excellent and one would expect great results with the part making! Good luck on the part and I will be waiting for the next episode.
Thanks Matt. My Dad used to say that unless you felt like you were kicked in the head, you hadn't learned anything. Well, I've learned a few things - still don't know how to dodge the kicks though. Thanks for tuning in!
Your videos are great. Thank you for doing them in such great detail!!
Thanks Michael.
I like your tip on making the flimsy aluminum flange a bit stiffer. I used to tape paint mixing sticks to the back side. Also, a cheap chopper gun that shoots dry strands would have been your best friend on these parts. I put mine on a really short chop to get into all the curves nice and quickly on stuff like this.
That is some nice work. To the one that asked about bonding metal to carbon , there are adhesives that will do that .carbon to carbon so strong and light
Really enjoy these mold making videos, and when you do your carbon layups! Looking great, keep up the great work!
Thanks Donovan. It's been a lot of work (most of it pretty boring to watch) - but it's great to have people along for the support.
Subscriber count is doing well. Content is getting better and better
Thanks Michael - doing the best I can.
I love this series on composite body panels, thank you :) When I took safety training for hazardous conditions, we learned no half mask respirator will really work if you have a full beard. It's better than nothing, but you're still breathing dangerous fibers when you grind or cut composites. You really need a positive air pressure setup :)
I'd dig out the PP set up that I have - I did switch to using my shop vac after reading another viewer comment...I've also trimmed back the beard.
@@ThrottleStopGarage Good to hear. My father in law died from mesothelioma, it was not pretty
Great Video production!
i love your videos you show everything that can go wrong no hide anything keep it up
Thanks Santos.
Eheh Bad Obession! J'aime! I'm french :p
excellent video as always!
by now your probably realize that whatever the mold surface is, you will get that on your part!
when i started out I only put a few layers of light cloth, then went straight to thick CSM, but I ended up getting weird surface issues with my parts and molds, turns out with a bit of heat and high vacuum the large CSM will print through the cloth pretty easily!
basically what you put in is what you get out, if your mold is a mirror with a gradual build up of cloth, you'll get a mirror part!
also, for gel coats and primers, if im going to be doing more than a single coat, I try to get the same product in a few really contrasting colours (black, red and white usually), so if i sand or hand finish the mold or part its easy to tell how far I am sanding
excellent videos, doing an excellent job!
Good tip on the contrasting colours. I was told to do that - but I didn't as the gel coat has a shelf life and I've only got a few more molds to go - lots of complexities when you have to travel a long way to get a shipment.
Always glad to see one of your videos man.
Time to crack a cold one!
Still months of work to do until I can close out the series on carbon fiber. Can't wait!
@@ThrottleStopGarage Is this the limit of carbon fiber a single man can take?!
No on a more serious note. I bet you'll be relieved having done so much work already.
@@volvovalor8051 I've got a hood and nose section to go...stay tuned. Two things have struck me about this phase of the project. 1. Working in a cramped space (you'll notice the camera angles are very restricted and other things are in the perimeter of the shot...because there is no room) is terrible for doing composite work. 2. I've learned a tremendous amount - but there is still so far to go. I as so happy these molds came out - there is a wave of relief with every release.
Great video as always!
Thanks.
Looking forward to the mating if both panels. I've always thought if doing something similar to my 81 mustang.
Working on the panel right now. It'll be a few weeks while we finish this job up and move on.
A few comments for you.
Man, your patience is amazing. Beautiful job as always.
Was that a 745 you were in, picking up supplies?
Was that a Bad Obsession Motorsport mug you were flaunting?
It's going to be a very special car when finished.
Strangely when I lived in Sweden, they sold lumbar in metric lengths and imperial section. So you would buy 3m of 2 x 4.
I've got a 1985 245 for a shop truck. It's fantastically ugly but works great. Yup - a little love for Binky and the boys from Bad Obsession. Metric and imperial mixed...that would do my head in.
Throttle Stop Garage Good man. I loved my 245 (and 145). As you say, ugly but so useful. My old V50 was also a great car (and still is as my Brother is now running it). It just keep going. The Project Binky boys are great. I never got to the bottom of the metric imperial mix in Sweden, as the country was metric.
Probably a lot of people in Scandinavia that are interested to get those mold.
Put a 2.3 litre Volvo turbo engine in it. Would be a great track car🙂🇧🇻🇩🇰🇸🇪🏴☠️🏁
There is a 2.3L 5 cylinder turbo planned for the build.
Just discovered your channel. Been loving your attention to detail and the in-depth explanations. I also find it a bit sad that UA-cam audiences want everything condensed and pre-chewed. Sometimes I find myself editing a painful section of work, into 30 seconds of fast forwarding without the ability to convey the effort that went into it all. Thanks for your videos.
PS, it’s 03:40 here, I’ll sleep another time, next video please...
Thanks, I try to keep it real.
@@ThrottleStopGarage You're doing a great job. 😎👍🏻
Sehr gut
Compliments on another super video. I have to say...I hate seeing you wrestle around with separating the pieces from the molds...I would suggest once you get the separation started, add some wedges to preload it for coming apart, then apply some judicious impact (with maybe a rubber mallet)...with the impact forces being so much higher than the (essentially) static forces you apply strictly by hand, I believe the separation will be somewhat easier/simpler. Cheers
Thanks Ron...when I review the video, the removal of the plugs from the mold always cracks me up. I've added wedges and tried it all (though no impact) and it's getting a lot better. What's going through my head the entire time is to NOT go over to my tool box and grab some weapon of last resort. My most recent efforts (next video) show how easy the release should be.
Love your vids. Been watching for months now. Do you use plenty of release agent on the metal parts before you paint the gel coat on? Seems like you're always wrestling to get the "bucks" out of the molds after curing.
I did - but I also tended to polish rather than just wipe the applied release agent. Keep watching - the releases are now painless and lack the drama of these early parts.
Love the videos, your skills surpass mine by a mile lol. I've only made a couple of moulds over the last year to make a full carbon reproduction front lip. Just wondering how long you typically wait between laying your gel coat and laying the fibreglass on top?
Thanks Josh - The gel coat has to be completely dry between coats and before laying up the veil or you will get print through. It is a two stage cure - so the first flash happens within 20 minutes or so. Then I wait whatever the recommended recoat time is (depends on product) but I think I waited about 1/2 hour between coats to build up to 20 mils of thickness. Then I waited an hour or so as advised in the TDS before starting the layup. For the first time, I had pretty much zero issue (a few small flaws that you saw me fix with the same gel coat but with a wax additive so it would harden) with porosity or other faults.
Why oh why do you guys not use rollers. stapling with a bush doesn't remove air bubbles. And just a question? could you have not thrown the trunk back into the original mold and made the the under side off that need to flange blank off as much as you can and catch all the negative angles. on a side note styrene is heavier then air and will sit in low spots and cause you grief. So the trick is to tip the mold up not over but up and let the styrene drain out. dont let it sit in the part you never achieve full cure.
It is not negative, it is clearly under 180° of overal angle. How can you not see it? Your only problem will be the lock area.
The lip around the edge of the lock panel is over 90º so it would not come out. The other solution was to change how the trunk frame panel worked...and I didn't want to do that because that's the recess for the rear trim panel. This was really not the hardest decision I've made.
If the veil/glass cloth cannot fully sit into those tight gaps, will the air pocket from all these post a problem when removing the mould or when casting? Will the mould crack in some area given the glass is not fully packed in? Will you advise to use multiple layer of chop strand during mould making instead given chop strand can be easy worked into tight corners n all?
I have been using flocked silica to fill tight gaps and have not had an issue with veil and bridging. I didn't use veil on this mold, just cloth and it draped and backed up the gel coat very well. I'd use a tooling gel coat these days. I didn't have cracking/print through or any other issues with this mold or the part pulled from the mold as predicted by some in the comments. CSM after the veil is a good way to go - though I often use cloth to keep weight down.
Greetings from Russia
Did you really need to redo all that bracing like factory? Or could you have just made parts of it for the hinges and latch?
Probably not - but there is a trunk seal that fits that inner profile (not the outer) and the hinges mount down a bit - the trunk latch has to go somewhere and there is a trim panel. So best to do it this way. Or that's what my thought was.
11:11 hehehehe i didnt expect this
How would a steel frame even attach to a carbon fiber skin? Surely glue wouldn't do in this case, right? And it's not like you can use rivets or anything...
There are several epoxy and urethane adhesives that work for this application. There are potential issues with different rates of thermal expansion/contraction between the carbon parts and the steel frame, but modern adhesives are pretty good at this.
@@ThrottleStopGarage , Thanks! :)
i can strongly recommend gurit spabond 345 for that kind of application, it is excellent for bonding anything to CF, i use it for gluing in threaded or force spreading inserts (for reinforcing holes to put shafts or bearings etc in), for gluing in reinforcement ribbing and spreader plates, or for creating structural fillets when adhering large structural members (CF generally wont drape well into tight corners, so first I put a fillet of spa bond into the corner to form a nice radius) before I layup over it.
It's cheap for how much you get, compared to 10 minute epoxy and the like it is very cheap, especially in bulk.
Hello. Your work is great. But I have a question, did you see easy composite video? They did hood without cutting metal. Sorry for my english, I am from Russia
Sure - We're working with very different panels. Modern panels have fully bonded frames without large gaps and odd negative angles. Old cars are different. Modern cars are also made from thinner steel. So their techniques wouldn't have worked as well in this application. You could have done it if you needed by rearranging a few things - I know this...the hood and trunk lid are sacrificial in my build.
Was it really that important for you to replicate the inside of the hood? Because the inside was shaped that way to support an entirely different material which was steel. In fact, some would even cast the whole rear surface and then proceed to just cut out what would be the hood and then make a proprietary inside part that only made sure the contact points and hinge area was reinforced.
If anything, a waffle surface with a frame would do better for a carbon fiber backside.
Yes - the inside frame is also the seal area. I'm sure it could have been done differently. I'm also not sure how you can get a good strong hing area from a single skin panel. I'm sure re-engineering the thing would have worked - but it also would have made even more work.
is the shape of the inside really that important? I would have just stuck down some foam on the skin mould in a pattern that looks about right and glassed over it. jobs a good un.
Good question. Wait for the hood video...I'm working on that part right now and doing pretty much as you're suggesting.
I had been following Easy Composites protocol for mold release and they don't wipe or polish after applying release, and have had great success in getting parts out of molds. I wonder why or who said to wipe the mold release in your process?
It's in the product instructions. It says wipe - I just went a bit nuts and polished. Releases have been no problem since.
that flanging material wasnt corrugated plastic, what is it?
It's aluminum flashing.
You are saying “carbon fiber” that stuff is crazy expensive and only benefit I know of is it’s lighter than fiberglass why are you going to use it over glass? What’s it gonna do for you?
I just wanted to learn how - I've always been intrigued by the process.
Are you going to try the vacuum infusion method on this or lay and wet?
Infusion for sure. I've never done a wet layup.
I don’t think he would go through all that just to lay it on there wet xD
Great workmanship and content my friend. Have not yet watched back too much, so my apologies for questions I should know about.
First of all, where abouts in the good frozen tundra are you at?
Greetings from Calgary.
L
Hello neighbour - just a few hours to your south! Thanks for the kind words.
Oh! Great fellow albertan! Cheers then. Keep up the great work!
I swear I've met you before, What city are you from?! I work at an auto store in Lethbridge AB!
This series is filmed in a phone booth Craig calls a garage...in Lethbridge...
I keep having a problem with my parts warping after they reach higher temps, around 90 and up. My parts are for the interior and temps can reach up to 120 in certain parts of the states, and they warp. Do your parts warp in high temps? When the car is parked out in the sun?
Only time will tell - they haven't been outside yet and it's winter in Canada. I'm not anticipating any issues.
Throttle Stop Garage it's so frustrating lol. I'm assuming the parts have to be baked as they cure in their molds to be able to withstand higher temps without warping. Haven't tried it out yet, but it has to be the way to avoid the warping.
@@paulinadeluca9117 epoxy resin? Layup? I am baking my parts. Could be lots of things I guess.
Throttle Stop Garage yes using epoxy resin, laying up, then vacuuming and letting the breather fabric soak up the extra resin. But I don't bake... lol must be the issue. What temp do you bake your parts at?
@@paulinadeluca9117 50 degrees Celsius for 8 hours.
What car does this trunk bonnet attach?
Volvo Canadian.
Wow you going to Nth degree they you at Ferrari for the Indy 500
The car will be 1mln$ ;)
Most likely worthless as I'm not selling it. LOL.
@@ThrottleStopGarage there is always a price ;) I have MB W115/8 from 1974 ... never ending story
AS YOU have already found out grinding those composit fibers inside leaves your shop full of itchy dust.
DO YOR GRINDING OUTSIDE.
Canada...I'll just leave it at that.
Throttle Stop Garage I THINK I JUST FIGURED IT OUT IT IS KNEE DEEP IN SNOW!!!!
I live in SW FLORIDA and could not imagine why you were grinding in your shop!!!!
We don’t get a lot of snow! But in July, Aug, and Sept if can afford it stay in a grind in A/C. My buddy has a grinding room. BASTARD!! Kidding he good friend.
@@tomharrell1954 I wish it was only knee deep! I thought this was going to go much more quickly...I didn't get the timing right at all on this part of the project.
U a millionaire with this much diy carbon fibre 😂 definately going be lightest volvo
is the volvo amazon a volvo p1800
Far from it - it started as a pretty light car - it's an "Amazon" not a P1800.
Was it really that important for you to replicate the inside of the hood? Because the inside was shaped that way to support an entirely different material which was steel. In fact, some would even cast the whole rear surface and then proceed to just cut out what would be the hood and then make a proprietary inside part that only made sure the contact points and hinge area was reinforced.
If anything, a waffle surface with a frame would do better for a carbon fiber backside.
Yes - I think so. Sure you could work out how to do all this in foam with fasteners or studs or something. It wasn't harder to do it this way. The frame WAS NOT meant to hold the skin - it was to support the hinges. There is also a rear lip seal and other details that are now rendered. There is always many ways to solve a problem. I chose to not re-engineer the part much.