Every time I learn more about this hobby I find more processes I should've taken in between steps and more tools and more composites to work with. It is truly a never ending experience and I am all for it.
This is up there with some of the worst painting advice I have seen . Your primer to stick properly needs the surface to have some rough texture to get a good bond . That is one of the 1st things your taught when learning about painting de-gloss the surface with light sanding, and wipe with mineral spirits to ensure good adhesion.
Hi Chris, I usually build the more recent kits, which have very good decals with minimal film (printed by cartograph, eduard etc..) but where needed I prefer to cut out the decals with a sharp fresh hobby knife 1-2 mm from the printed edge. If you use Decal softening solutions (Mr. Softener, Microsol) then it usually does the trick with any excess film too. regards
Yeah..... Na.... Sorry but this is not a good technique for pre-priming you are better of giving the whole kit a very light wet sand with 1500g paper to get a good surface for the primer to hold on to once primed you can give very light wet sand with 2000g paper but you still need a very slight surface texture for paint adhesion
Every time I learn more about this hobby I find more processes I should've taken in between steps and more tools and more composites to work with. It is truly a never ending experience and I am all for it.
I am really enjoying these videos. My pal and I are about to our first jump into serious modeling. I have subscribed and shared. Most excellent!
Excelent video... cheers from Argentina!
This is up there with some of the worst painting advice I have seen . Your primer to stick properly needs the surface to have some rough texture to get a good bond .
That is one of the 1st things your taught when learning about painting de-gloss the surface with light sanding, and wipe with mineral spirits to ensure good adhesion.
Yes, and that includes any, and everything you are going to paint, not just models.
Correct as a ex car painter and a 30 Yr model maker polished surfaces are not good for adhesion
I was thinking the same thing. They are correct though about wanting the same amount of roughness across the whole surface.
Great videos! I find them very helpful! Which rotary tool do you use?
I use a dremel...the battery powered ones are best for modelling as their RPM is lower and more controlable
What kind of paint is all of this prep work going towards?
Why the hell are you polising something you are gonna prime anyways? Just wipe it with alcohol and prime
DA HELL ? You never....NEVER polish a surface before painting anything !
After washing, there's no point in using compound before, you know that? All of that shine goes away.
An Awesome Video Tutorial Sir. Love it 👍👍👍
It is the worst advice possible . Nothing advised is correct
What happened mate ? , you ok?.
Hi there,
Great series of videos for re-beginners like me.
Question: What is your approach to removing the carrier film from decals?
Thanks
Chris
Hi Chris,
I usually build the more recent kits, which have very good decals with minimal film (printed by cartograph, eduard etc..) but where needed I prefer to cut out the decals with a sharp fresh hobby knife 1-2 mm from the printed edge. If you use Decal softening solutions (Mr. Softener, Microsol) then it usually does the trick with any excess film too.
regards
@@scalemodelcinema9900 That's great. Thank you
Yeah..... Na.... Sorry but this is not a good technique for pre-priming you are better of giving the whole kit a very light wet sand with 1500g paper to get a good surface for the primer to hold on to once primed you can give very light wet sand with 2000g paper but you still need a very slight surface texture for paint adhesion