Hey mate, these videos have been soo helpful. I’m tackling my own project at the moment and hit a snag on how to start the sheet against a different product and secure the end of the sheet under a end / corner flashing at both end (start and finish)
Hi James, thank you so much for your comment. It’s definitely a much more high-end product and yes, a bit more specialized installation. Definitely something someone that has tin snip craftsmanship abilities can handle. But generally I agree with you the weekend warrior would find it a bit technical. Thanks.
Hi. Great video series. Very informative and pretty much the only guidance in the world on how to do this with an architectural look. If you had a sheet profile with a closer rib spacing, like trimdek, and a rib just happend to fall on one side only exactly where you but the angle for the jamb flashing, how do you make that look good? Would you cut the rib out and patch it so its flat or just shorten the return of the side flashing to accomodate the depth of the rib? Hope that makes sense.
Hi Yankel, I think I understand. If you follow this link, you can upload a few photo's of what you are talking about, or draw something so we can see if we can help. book.servicem8.com/request_service_online_booking?strVendorUUID=237e6e4b-0872-4be7-9ff2-191e6fe6085b Click the YOU TUBE service
Great series’s of video mate, I learnt a lot from them. Just a quick question, I might of missed it but do you rivet each sheet onto the battens? Cheers mate
Hi Karl, sometimes using an appropriate sized rivet will do the job. For example, a #20 rivet every batten in an area such as in this series would be adequate. However on a wall that is completely exposed to the weather it crucial that a pan head screw of the correct gauge is used at every junction point. 👍 Hope this helped and thanks for your feedback
A great set of videos, some really helpful info. But just a question regarding the very first sheet you laid on the right hand side. Is there a reason why you never used a "J" shaped trim in the corner to support the outer edge of the very first sheet?
Hi Jack, thank you for your kind words. I have never use the J trim ever I can see how potentially it could be helpful in certain situations and you could use it in the situation. Normally, I would put a you channel in other against the wall that would receive the sheet, then I would put in a box flashing to trim it off. The you channel would do two things, one make the end, water tight end to compress the Sheets without fixings being required once the box flashing is installed.
Great video, just wondering what is that sheet colour? Also if you fit those sheets to a roof, how robust are they for damage? Can you walk on them, as per a standard roof sheet? Cheers.
Hi Desmond. Thank you for your question. Colorbond Basalt Matt. Yes, nailstrip cladding can be installed on roofs. Currently on the block channel 9. You can walk on them with care. Let me know if you have other q’s.
This is depending on the window system used. As a general rule yes… if you are not 100% sure that all the works behind will prevent the water going in. It’s time to update this as we have improved the flashing system since this filming.
Hi mate wonderful set of videos, I now feel confident to start my massive tractor shed into art studio conversion with klip lok wall cladding. I have one question at the 29 minute mark in Part 3 you described and measured up an inside and outside "U" shaped flashing for the sides of the window but you did not use the internal one in Part 7 it seems you used angle to fix the external. Any reason for the change and which is the best solution? Love your work
Hi Chris, there is actually many ways of doing that. I have adopted new ways since these videos were published. The U gives a very solid and easy result that is more forgiving. That being said, klip lok has a different strategy (similar though) ….. depending on where the ribs land, see if you can set it all out first and aim to have clearance on the sides for a full U under flashings. I recommend the U. If you have any hard spots, feel free to go to our website and request a quote (choose UA-cam) and put up some pics… will help where we can 👍
Hi Kenny, love your work- wish you were in NSW so I could hire you... instead I'm gonna attempt this myself. (wish me luck) Is it normal to mitre the window head flashing after its installed? cheers.. I need all the help I can get.
Yes, so I would have chosen a different size combination to allow for a folded sheet. If you cannot achieve a folded sheet, you can have a flashing folded to look like a sheet. Sometimes you may have to make a corner flashing and put nicely positioned fixings.
Great video (and series!). Regarding the flashing on the sides, would you not have a small gap between the window and flashing? It didnt look like either of the L flashings covered this gap
Great question, the gap is negligible once the over flashing goes in and the flashing is sealed to the window. We are filming a sealant video on Monday for this exact purposez
On another note, we have updated our flashing design to minimise reliance on silicone (however we won’t be sharing that as it’s proprietary) if you want to connect through the website we can discuss that further. Have a good weekend.
Hi Toby thanks for your comments. There are so many tips and not knowing what type of cladding you’re using what type of a house and more information it’s hard to give you those tips. However would love to know more about it so I can assist you. You can reach out on here, or go to our website and there is a link for UA-cam requests under request a quote page. Look forward to hearing from you
So I'm building a small cabin and want to use monument matt similar to what you have done. I suppose I need help with knowing what products i will need. Flashing etc etc. Do you offer a paid service where you can provide what I will need to order for my DIY project. Cheers
Hello GF, thanks for your question. Go to this link and we can discuss how to move forwards. book.servicem8.com/request_service_online_booking?strVendorUUID=237e6e4b-0872-4be7-9ff2-191e6fe6085b#00a6eaf0-bf77-4c7e-9c90-1ecf5f394d7b
When cutting the first window rebate, it was hard to see how you did it. Looks like you drilled a start hole, then simultaneously used two cutters to remove a wide strip. Is that correct? That cut wasn’t some special tool was it?
Hi Peter, Maxirib, or mini rib or panelrib… depending on where you buy it. Quite a basic and cost effective way to sheet using Colorbond. Not at all common however, what exactly do you want to know. Happy to help out!
@@ConstructingArt thank you.. the material i want to use is stratco. i can't find any info if i am ok to put this onto the timber frame without the battens? i know it'll damage the sarkin but if i use neoprene hex it should't really matter? the way you explained toe and head flashing was great... will get someone to give me a hand around the windows though i think do you know if it can be placed onto the sarking/timber frame without the battens?
@@petraschliwi829 You can install directly onto the frame, however you will void any Colorbond Warranty that may be available. I really dont see a big issue and have installed directly onto the sarking many times. all the best :)
Could you use a grind with a cut-off wheel and just put tap down to mark your lines on so when grinding the burs, don't scratch the paint and you get a nicer finish cut?
Hi bro, thank you so much for your question. Unfortunately, if you cut Colorbond sheeting with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel, you will firstly void the warranty and secondly, it will blister the paint where you cut it with a grinder and attract rust in that location ruining all the good work. It would be great if you could do this, another way of doing it, however, would you be to use a cold cut saw with a specialized blade in it.
You can use “offset aviator snips” for a nicer cut finish. And if you cut from the underside it won’t leave any marks on the finished surface. Avoid using aviator snips with serrated edges. Recommend Midwest or rigid brand offset aviators. If your budget allows for it get cordless Nibblers.
Ahhh, great pic up. I ended up installing a different type of flashing after the fact. There are multiple ways to do this… and quite often we will use a C channel. 👍. Thanks for your question!
Hi Peter, I believe you have been in touch with our office. Thanks for your kind words, the team should be able to help you out, if you get stuck they will connect us directly through our internal system 🤘🏽, I’m sure we will be speaking soon!
Hey mate, these videos have been soo helpful. I’m tackling my own project at the moment and hit a snag on how to start the sheet against a different product and secure the end of the sheet under a end / corner flashing at both end (start and finish)
Hit me up on Instagram kennymyersofficial
Good stuff mate! You're a sheet metal legend.
Legend! Shucks…. Thanks Peter
You make this look too easy knackers 👏👏👏🍻
It is easy… 😭🐒 🐩 like flying an aeroplane …. Once you become an expert it’s autopilot
@@ConstructingArt 😂🍻
Very nice product, a step up from zincalume and trimdeck, looks much more high-end though bait more technical for the week-end warriors...
Hi James, thank you so much for your comment. It’s definitely a much more high-end product and yes, a bit more specialized installation.
Definitely something someone that has tin snip craftsmanship abilities can handle. But generally I agree with you the weekend warrior would find it a bit technical.
Thanks.
Very helpful. Great videos.
Hi. Great video series. Very informative and pretty much the only guidance in the world on how to do this with an architectural look.
If you had a sheet profile with a closer rib spacing, like trimdek, and a rib just happend to fall on one side only exactly where you but the angle for the jamb flashing, how do you make that look good? Would you cut the rib out and patch it so its flat or just shorten the return of the side flashing to accomodate the depth of the rib? Hope that makes sense.
Hi Yankel, I think I understand. If you follow this link, you can upload a few photo's of what you are talking about, or draw something so we can see if we can help. book.servicem8.com/request_service_online_booking?strVendorUUID=237e6e4b-0872-4be7-9ff2-191e6fe6085b Click the YOU TUBE service
So beautiful. Awesome 👈
Thank you so much
Great series’s of video mate, I learnt a lot from them. Just a quick question, I might of missed it but do you rivet each sheet onto the battens? Cheers mate
Hi Karl, sometimes using an appropriate sized rivet will do the job. For example, a #20 rivet every batten in an area such as in this series would be adequate. However on a wall that is completely exposed to the weather it crucial that a pan head screw of the correct gauge is used at every junction point. 👍
Hope this helped and thanks for your feedback
Great job love the videos, how did you do the corner they are no videos on UA-cam that shows how it’s done Rgds Dave
ua-cam.com/video/SMQl8YRYOhw/v-deo.htmlsi=yYLM-fpsj-ZlN3LZ
A great set of videos, some really helpful info. But just a question regarding the very first sheet you laid on the right hand side. Is there a reason why you never used a "J" shaped trim in the corner to support the outer edge of the very first sheet?
Hi Jack, thank you for your kind words. I have never use the J trim ever I can see how potentially it could be helpful in certain situations and you could use it in the situation.
Normally, I would put a you channel in other against the wall that would receive the sheet, then I would put in a box flashing to trim it off. The you channel would do two things, one make the end, water tight end to compress the Sheets without fixings being required once the box flashing is installed.
Great video, just wondering what is that sheet colour? Also if you fit those sheets to a roof, how robust are they for damage? Can you walk on them, as per a standard roof sheet? Cheers.
Hi Desmond. Thank you for your question. Colorbond Basalt Matt. Yes, nailstrip cladding can be installed on roofs. Currently on the block channel 9. You can walk on them with care.
Let me know if you have other q’s.
Hey thanks for video. Would you seal the vertical line with silicon along the window ?
This is depending on the window system used. As a general rule yes… if you are not 100% sure that all the works behind will prevent the water going in.
It’s time to update this as we have improved the flashing system since this filming.
Hi mate wonderful set of videos, I now feel confident to start my massive tractor shed into art studio conversion with klip lok wall cladding. I have one question at the 29 minute mark in Part 3 you described and measured up an inside and outside "U" shaped flashing for the sides of the window but you did not use the internal one in Part 7 it seems you used angle to fix the external. Any reason for the change and which is the best solution? Love your work
Hi Chris, there is actually many ways of doing that. I have adopted new ways since these videos were published. The U gives a very solid and easy result that is more forgiving.
That being said, klip lok has a different strategy (similar though) ….. depending on where the ribs land, see if you can set it all out first and aim to have clearance on the sides for a full U under flashings.
I recommend the U.
If you have any hard spots, feel free to go to our website and request a quote (choose UA-cam) and put up some pics… will help where we can 👍
Hi Kenny, love your work- wish you were in NSW so I could hire you... instead I'm gonna attempt this myself. (wish me luck) Is it normal to mitre the window head flashing after its installed? cheers.. I need all the help I can get.
You can mitre it, it just finishes neater.
Give me a bell on 0731773366 and ask for Kenny. Leave your number if I’m unavailable. Happy to help.
On the left side if you were to continue to sheet the other wall how would you finish the corner. Would you continue a sheet with a 90 bend.
Yes, so I would have chosen a different size combination to allow for a folded sheet.
If you cannot achieve a folded sheet, you can have a flashing folded to look like a sheet.
Sometimes you may have to make a corner flashing and put nicely positioned fixings.
Great video (and series!). Regarding the flashing on the sides, would you not have a small gap between the window and flashing? It didnt look like either of the L flashings covered this gap
Great question, the gap is negligible once the over flashing goes in and the flashing is sealed to the window. We are filming a sealant video on Monday for this exact purposez
On another note, we have updated our flashing design to minimise reliance on silicone (however we won’t be sharing that as it’s proprietary) if you want to connect through the website we can discuss that further. Have a good weekend.
Hey mate like you videos very helpful. I’m just about to clad my whole house in monument corrugated any tips ?
Hi Toby thanks for your comments. There are so many tips and not knowing what type of cladding you’re using what type of a house and more information it’s hard to give you those tips. However would love to know more about it so I can assist you. You can reach out on here, or go to our website and there is a link for UA-cam requests under request a quote page. Look forward to hearing from you
question- did you change the side flashings from 2 piece as in previous video? if so why?
Hi Scott, these are 2 peices. Flashings.
Great job 👍 How did you seal between the finished side trim and the window frame?
Normaly we will silicone down each side as a back up. If water gets in, it comes out at the bottom of the toe moulds.
@@ConstructingArt cool, thank you 😎
So I'm building a small cabin and want to use monument matt similar to what you have done. I suppose I need help with knowing what products i will need. Flashing etc etc. Do you offer a paid service where you can provide what I will need to order for my DIY project. Cheers
Hello GF, thanks for your question. Go to this link and we can discuss how to move forwards.
book.servicem8.com/request_service_online_booking?strVendorUUID=237e6e4b-0872-4be7-9ff2-191e6fe6085b#00a6eaf0-bf77-4c7e-9c90-1ecf5f394d7b
When cutting the first window rebate, it was hard to see how you did it. Looks like you drilled a start hole, then simultaneously used two cutters to remove a wide strip. Is that correct? That cut wasn’t some special tool was it?
That’s exactly correct as to how that happened. There are no special tools.
hi, love this series of videos. do you have any videos about the installation of stratco maxirib?
Hi Peter,
Maxirib, or mini rib or panelrib… depending on where you buy it. Quite a basic and cost effective way to sheet using Colorbond.
Not at all common however, what exactly do you want to know. Happy to help out!
@@ConstructingArt thank you.. the material i want to use is stratco. i can't find any info if i am ok to put this onto the timber frame without the battens? i know it'll damage the sarkin but if i use neoprene hex it should't really matter? the way you explained toe and head flashing was great... will get someone to give me a hand around the windows though i think
do you know if it can be placed onto the sarking/timber frame without the battens?
@@petraschliwi829 You can install directly onto the frame, however you will void any Colorbond Warranty that may be available. I really dont see a big issue and have installed directly onto the sarking many times. all the best :)
@@ConstructingArt thank you... let's see how i go lol
Could you use a grind with a cut-off wheel and just put tap down to mark your lines on so when grinding the burs, don't scratch the paint and you get a nicer finish cut?
Hi bro, thank you so much for your question. Unfortunately, if you cut Colorbond sheeting with an angle grinder and a cut off wheel, you will firstly void the warranty and secondly, it will blister the paint where you cut it with a grinder and attract rust in that location ruining all the good work.
It would be great if you could do this, another way of doing it, however, would you be to use a cold cut saw with a specialized blade in it.
You can use “offset aviator snips” for a nicer cut finish. And if you cut from the underside it won’t leave any marks on the finished surface. Avoid using aviator snips with serrated edges. Recommend Midwest or rigid brand offset aviators. If your budget allows for it get cordless Nibblers.
Why did u not put a u channel in for the very first sheet ?
Ahhh, great pic up. I ended up installing a different type of flashing after the fact. There are multiple ways to do this… and quite often we will use a C channel. 👍. Thanks for your question!
I like oil canning
That’s awesome!
Doesn't vinegar promote rust?
I am not sure, however, white vinegar… Not white cleaning vinegar, is recommended by Colorbond.
Boke
Hi What is your email im a roof plumber in Melbourne and kindly need your opinion of cladding this window and door in nailstrip
Thx love your Vids
Hi Peter, I believe you have been in touch with our office. Thanks for your kind words, the team should be able to help you out, if you get stuck they will connect us directly through our internal system 🤘🏽, I’m sure we will be speaking soon!
@@ConstructingArt thanks just need some ideas for some nails strip cladding I can email You some photos regards peter