Good question! Nearly all bass string makers require 1/2 to 1 full turn in the opposite direction of how the copper winding was wound. Two reasons: first, it puts slight tension on the wire core against the winding, and my string maker friends say this is needed to prevent buzzing. Second, the little end of the wire at the top of the hitch loop should point DOWN. The reason is simply so that when dusting the plate, the dust cloth doesn’t catch on the wire end. So when you put on a new bass string, after the wire is on the tuning pin, and before you bring the string up to tension, remove it from the hitch pin and give it a twist; 1/2 twist if the little string end is pointing up, and 1 full twist if it’s pointing down. The tool I showed in the video can damage the plate if not used carefully, so my wife (helper) likes to use a small pair of vise grips to firmly hold, and twist the wire, then replace it back on the hitch pin.
Hey Jim! Pretty much everything I carry in my everyday and shop stringing kits. The only thing I’ve had trouble finding is the parallel pliers. I’ve only been able to find jewelry (almost compound style) parallel pliers. They don’t look like they’d hold up well. Any leads on where can I find some simple/straightforward ones like yours?
@@Tyler_Ayala Hi Tyler. I bought mine from Schaff, but Pianotek and Pacific should have them. I didn’t say this in the video, but I bought two pair and shortened the jaws on one pair so it has better leverage. I can smash the becket better (remove curve) with the shorter jaws. There’s a saying “An unmodified tool is an unfinished tool”. It seems I’m continually modifying tools!
@@jbuzz8853 Thanks! I guess I skipped over looking at the typical supply houses because that would be too obvious…*face palm* Anyway, I’ve been using a cheap pair of regular Harbor Freight pliers that I modified by using a cylindrical grinding bit chucked into a drill. Zip tied the trigger and grabbed into the grinding bit with the pliers “head on” to make the inside of the pliers rounded out to fit around the coil. They worked great on one piano. A giant blister in my palm (even with gloves on), I realized they aren’t very ergonomical and the metal was too soft and started to wear away. My long winded way of saying “thanks for the obvious lead!” :)
Thanks a lot from Spain!!
Great video! Can you explain why you have to twist bass strings please?
Good question! Nearly all bass string makers require 1/2 to 1 full turn in the opposite direction of how the copper winding was wound. Two reasons: first, it puts slight tension on the wire core against the winding, and my string maker friends say this is needed to prevent buzzing. Second, the little end of the wire at the top of the hitch loop should point DOWN. The reason is simply so that when dusting the plate, the dust cloth doesn’t catch on the wire end. So when you put on a new bass string, after the wire is on the tuning pin, and before you bring the string up to tension, remove it from the hitch pin and give it a twist; 1/2 twist if the little string end is pointing up, and 1 full twist if it’s pointing down. The tool I showed in the video can damage the plate if not used carefully, so my wife (helper) likes to use a small pair of vise grips to firmly hold, and twist the wire, then replace it back on the hitch pin.
@@jbuzz8853 I can’t thank you enough, you are so kind and competent! I will follow your advice and your wife’s tip!
Hey Jim! Pretty much everything I carry in my everyday and shop stringing kits. The only thing I’ve had trouble finding is the parallel pliers. I’ve only been able to find jewelry (almost compound style) parallel pliers. They don’t look like they’d hold up well. Any leads on where can I find some simple/straightforward ones like yours?
@@Tyler_Ayala Hi Tyler. I bought mine from Schaff, but Pianotek and Pacific should have them. I didn’t say this in the video, but I bought two pair and shortened the jaws on one pair so it has better leverage. I can smash the becket better (remove curve) with the shorter jaws. There’s a saying “An unmodified tool is an unfinished tool”. It seems I’m continually modifying tools!
@@jbuzz8853 Thanks! I guess I skipped over looking at the typical supply houses because that would be too obvious…*face palm*
Anyway, I’ve been using a cheap pair of regular Harbor Freight pliers that I modified by using a cylindrical grinding bit chucked into a drill. Zip tied the trigger and grabbed into the grinding bit with the pliers “head on” to make the inside of the pliers rounded out to fit around the coil. They worked great on one piano. A giant blister in my palm (even with gloves on), I realized they aren’t very ergonomical and the metal was too soft and started to wear away.
My long winded way of saying “thanks for the obvious lead!” :)