Those active grill shutters aren’t just for warm up they function continuously throughout the driving range not only for temperature control but also aerodynamics for maximizing fuel economy.
I'm in the NWT, I have added 2x battery heaters and an oil pan heater in addition to the stock block heater. My truck fires up no issues everytime and there's been a few nights I've forgotten to plug it in at -40 over night and it will fire up everytime. It's a 2020 2500HD, I do have the active grill shutters and in town it maintained heat in the cab but on some longer road trips when temps were in the -30's or lower it did have a bit of an issue getting really hot in the cab so I've got a winter front for it this year. No issues with the DEF system. I kept my tank slightly lower than 1/2 full and had no limp mode issues.
Good job with the extra heaters on the trans and oil pan When I had a 2.8 diesel canyon I put one on the oil pan Traded it in for a 6.2 Denali because of frozen emissions problems on the 2.8 ✌️🇨🇦
Great truck. But for my use case, pulling a very similar trailer to this video with a race car inside, the 2500 gas was a better and cheaper option. Allowing for some headroom in terms of capacity if I step up from a 10k lb trailer to a 14k. We got an LT 6.6 gas Alaskan package for 56k, in the north east we could not touch a 3.0 or a 6.2 1500 for less than 70k.
Same up here; I was lucky with the one I picked up. I have been really happy with it thus far; we just bought another Duramax....it'll make an appearance here soon. I was toying with the idea of a gasser; the limiting factor I am finding with this 3.0L is the truck's weight and other components as a 1500. My payload is only ~1400 lbs, you throw a loaded trailer on this truck that has a max tongue weight of 900lbs and you'll only have enough wiggle room for a Driver / Passenger. I've got a scale en route. Going to play around with the load. The LZ0 has certainly headed in the right direction with a 13.3k max tow; I am sure the payload has increased.
You could probably pull that same trailer with a 6.6 at about 1-2 mpg less. I pull a fifth wheel with a 3500hd at 11 mpg but not that cold, but running full ac.
I have places in MA and NH. Minus 20f at the NH house and minus 5f here on Cape Cod yesterday! Fortunately it's back to 30f today but FL sounds good now.
@@ChrisLincolnHomes Falmouth. Used to rent at Cold Storage Beach in Dennis. Beautiful. I would love to go Florida for the winter but the wife is a full time volunteer here!
The transmission also has a coolant/trans oil heat exchanger from the factory to help the trans fluid warm up, you can briefly see the corner of it when you show the aftermarket heater. Great video!
We have a 21 at4 with the baby duramax. It’s got around 60 000 km on it. Early on we were plagued with no start long crank issue followed by a water pump issue that was was replaced. Since about 25000 km we have been problem free. Luckily I haven’t had that fan issue. I only plug it in when it’s going to be colder than -18 Celsius as per the user manual. I’d have to say in general I’m annoyed with the def usage overall. Not just towing. I’m dumping a jug in every 5-7 weeks. When I owned a 2017 cummins I dumped a jug in every 6 months.
Todd, me to brother...me too. Its crazy. Spend as much on DEF as I do fuel half the time when I'm towing....lol What symptoms did you have with your waterpump?
@@CHASING_BUILDS for months the thermostat needle moved all over. Almost red lining then it would drop below normal operating temp. Never sat at any one position very long. Then one day we got an engine light and a warning message saying get to dealership within 250 km or something along those lines.
Great video! The baby duramax is top of my list for my next truck but being in Canada I’m nervous of def in the cold. Hearing there is a heater in the def tank gives me confidence - thanks! The only extra winterization I’ve done to my 6.7 Cummins is a noco battery maintainer and I’d highly recommend. Diesels use up a lot of battery power and your charging system can’t always top it up, especially in the cold.
Thank you so much! I wanted to share my first hand experience with the truck and what ive learned over the year. I am making a video now but my DEF tank ended up freezing and essentially exploded from the top. I left it outside overnight (like most of the nights). It had 1/2 tank of DEF, plugged in etc. The dealer ended up covering it under warranty but they ended up replacing the tank + pump and harness. Super expensive if it was'nt covered.Something to keep in mind if you dont have the means to park inside.
@@CHASING_BUILDS oh no! That’s my biggest concern with def systems, having them freeze and leaving you in limp mode in the middle of nowhere. Guess I’m sticking with my pre-def Cummins a while longer. Thanks for the info!
Great video!, My 2023 does the same thing, if it’s 0-10 degrees I just plug it in for one hour. Disconnect battery if you don’t feel like cold soaking your truck.
That's smart; this same thing also happened to a coworker's 2023 2.7L. Silverado. It certainly took a moment and digging to find information on it and how to resolve it.
it's actually the aerodynamics that makes the most difference with mileage when towing. i was able to get 18mpg pulling a 2k flatbed trailer with my 2021 Sierra LM2, while pulling a 14' cargo trailer, you're lucky to get 14mpg.
Bro thank you so much, none of the Chevrolet service centers around me could seem to find that bulletin or explain to me why in the cooling fans were coming on at full tilt.
That fan at 100 percent while plugged in is a glitch with the GM software. I really wish they'd fix this. Super annoying... Commented before I watched it all LOL you went into detail for it.. great video..
I appreciate it, Tony; I only wanted to scratch the surface on the issue. Took me a solid hour to find info on it; I thought it deserved a video. I had a coworker with the 2.7L driving over a week with his fans at 100%, before I asked him about it. He had no idea, crazy thing was that he was driving with a cold engine...that can't be good for the overall health. It honestly needs a recall as it affects all of their trucks, from my understanding, not just the 3.0L. I don't think it would be too hard to reflash/update, but then again, it probably only affects the population of owners living in colder climates.
I would also recommend a battery maintainer, because of al the electronics there is a small drain on the batteries. Plus the cold eventually the batteries can go flat in a few days. Especially if you added things like a dash cam with a parking mode.
I can see why the ecm needs to know when the block heater is connected for one reason- to prevent driving while connected to the cord. Also- I would not change the diff cover. See Gale Banks for why.
Honestly, they came with the truck when I bought it. They definitely make for a more enjoyable ride in the winter other than my 22” wheels. Totally worth it; with the studs!
@@CHASING_BUILDS Thanks...I may have to round up a set for next winter. I threw some 20" AT4/Elevation wheels on mine and really like them but was thinking that some steelies would help me keep the 20" in better condition.
I would have loved if you would have shown the vehicle load and tow ratings from the drivers door jamb sticker. Unless that truck has the Max Tow package you appear to be way over the tow rating. Most trucks I've see without it have a maximum trainer rate of 8.800 lbs with a 880lb max tongue weight.
You are spot on. If the trailer is maxed out, with the GVWR I would be overweight. Empty or lightly loaded the trailer is perfect. Tongue weight should be around 10-15% of the trailer's gross from my understanding. I think 6k-7k is the preferred weight behind these "smaller" trucks.
Curious if GM is going to change to the LZ0 new 3.0 duramax in the Yukon, Tahoe and Escalade like they did in the Silverado and the sierra that’s now 305 hp and 495 ftlbs instead of this one with 277 hp and 460 ftlbs
@chasing_builds I just bought a 23silverado with the 3.0l. Took it on the highyway in -20deg temps and I was struggling to get the cabin temps to warm up. I tried the auto setting, manual fan settings, recirc on/off , etc. It was putting out luke warm air. Engine temp was normal. I called the dealership and they said they have had a rash of both gas and diesel trucks coming in because of the cold temps, complaining of the same issue. They told me to get a winterfront for it but GM doesn't make a factory one for these trucks. After watching your video you mentioned you had one but it didn't work. Not sure which route to take now. Which brand did you use?
I purchased the FIA brand, I beleive it was close to $200. I found the best results when keeping the truck in the heated garage then exposing it to the temperatures. Frozen Cab, Leather, Plastic etc just radiates the chill significantly more and makes the cab feel much colder than it would be; if stored at normal temperatures. The 3.0L has the front plastic acuators behind the grille from factory to help close off the engine bay. The acuators would be closed at idle and open up to help regulate with temps. I didn't notice significant change with the 3.0L, also the smaller displacement of engines also plays a part in temps. My 6.6L DURAMAX heats up the cab far more than the 3.0L. Same applies to gas engines I've owned in the past. More Displacement = more heat generation. On the flip side, you can only warm up a cab so much in temperatures that extreme haha The joys!!
Dealer can reprogram the ECU for the cooling fan issue. Dealer did my 2020 for me once they had the update. Have a 2022 now and it’s been fine from the factory. Going to be about 30F when my timer kicks in at 2:00 AM, haven’t had one problem with it.
We didnt experience much wind. However I did get sway above 63 mph+ Enroute back we actually purchased a sway bar hitch to counter that. It helps keep it in line now. According to the owners manual, a sway bar / weight distribution hitch is highly reccomend when towing above 7k lbs. I think moving forward; it will be on regardless.
I have a 2020 2500 duramax and pull a trailer with four zero turn mowers, the gross weight is around 8000 lbs. It pulls it great but was thinking of trading it for a 2023 3.0, the question is will it handle it and would I be happy with it coming from a 6.6.
Honestly, I think you'd be happy towing with that weight especially if you use the truck as a daily and weekend warriror becuase the 27+ mpg is nice but you want to get a base trim with higher payload for your application. First, you want to confirm the Tongue Weight on your trailer as the payload for my particular truck is only 1452 lbs (HighCountry) so an 8k trailer should give you about 800-850 lbs of tongue weight which in turn would only leave you with about 600lbs of payload. If you've got a 4-person crew plus equipment you'd bust the payload on the truck. I find the ideal towing is about 6k lbs on the 3.0L in terms of flexibility of persons / equipment. However, you could load the truck up, tow 10k lbs and it would easily do it; you'd just be outside the manufacture's recommended numbers. Plus that new LZ0 motor is an absoulute work horse, it made this LM2 which is already good; better.
@@CHASING_BUILDS cool I have a dually with snows and standard on the trailer. I wanna go winter drifting so im gonna test it out see how it goes. Love your setup Cheers
I get between 20-25 mpg towing a 16 foot flat bed with a 4k jeep on it with my 3.0. If i get a strong headwind (like in kansas) then i'll drop to 16-18. My 16 foot enclosed trailer im begging for 10 mpg.
If the aftermarket builds itself up well I’m convinced this may be the best base platform for overlanding fun. 6 seats for larger families, a bed or camper shell. 30+ mpg not towing. I get 600 miles to a tank on the highway and over 500 in town.
So up here we have #1 at almost every station. It has a lower viscosity and is not prone to gel in freezing temperatures. Haven't had too much but I do alternate my trucks with a garage so it has time to full thaw out.
The extreme DEF usage is because the poor little engine is working its ass off. Boost equals NOX, NOX is the reason for the DEF. High combustion temps are the result of high boost levels. That 3L has to work to tow, all of these 3 litres diesels are personal use primarily. All half tons are really personal use really
That’s great information, most definitely. I don’t see it struggling that much for it’s sticker weight but again being a half ton it’s very limited on payload
@CHASING BUILDS its not that its struggling. It's that it's working hard to maintain speed. It doesn't seem like it's working all that hard because it's 460lbft at 1750rpm. So many people fail to understand what does the work. HP is just the rate in which work gets done 460lbft is 460lbft right? 460lbft@1750rpm is 153hp 460lbft@4100rpm is 359hp Both are generating the same amount of force. They can do the same work in the same gear, the 6.2 V8 can do it faster. It work the same with the hp 277hp@3750 is 387lbft 420hp@5600 is 393lbft Very close in capability this is why the 3l duramax has a very similar GCWR to the 6.2, and it's the primary reason it gets better mileage too. It's doing the same amount of work at a far slower rpm with less cylinders. BMEP is far better and easier to utilize on the diesel. BMEP is the most capable torque at the slowest speed available. It's doing the most work with the least amount of fuel. This is why diesels are best for work. They don't depend on Stoichiometric air/fuel to operate properly(14.7:1). More air will mean more power(there is a limit), and more boost means higher combustion temp(NoX) and thus more DEF.
Useful enough, but it's clear you swapped to winter tires, yet no mention of those in the winterization video? Also, nobody drives up and down the Parks Highway all winter long without auxiliary lighting. Either the Silverado has some awesome lights, or you did the trip entirely in the daylight (as I assume from the photo of the Denali sign during daylight). That winter front can be more than useless on a vehicle with grille shutters. I have one on my (pre-puke-ugly restyle) Duramax HD, and even in sub-zero temperatures, it will cause EGTs to soar with a sizable trailer. I was hoping you would post some real cold start videos. My neighbor has a new 3.0 Duramax and had troubles starting during a cold spell when it was left in the Fairbanks airport parking lot for a couple week. I own a lot a diesels and have never had cold temperature start issues, even down to -50. Your -15 degree starts don't really mean much to me. I'd love to see a true interior Alaska cold start video. Love the engine, unfortunately not the truck. GM has a habit of introducing gag-worthy trucks (aesthetically), and then making them look less hideous over the course of 5 years or so, before introducing something even uglier. I think I will wait until GM is about to introduce the next version of the Silverado, to see if I could stomach the current version enough to buy one.
Bert, you are spot on, man. Yes, I have studded tires on the truck, man does the towing feel night/day over the factory 22" wheels, and these tires grip on all the ice we have up here. One of my favorite things to do for all of my vehicles. I toyed with mentioning it but left it out, trying to focus on the 3.0L, if that makes sense. The lights are beautiful, but oh buddy the lights do not put out as I needed; or expected. I had difficulties seeing out farther than 300', especially along the shoulder. Only about the last 3 hours of driving was in the dark...never again. Moose lights will be going on if this becomes more regular. You and me both; I am waiting for -40 to hit to get the cold start. It honestly isn't too bad. It's the only time I have to "wait to start" to give it a couple seconds to warm up; the plugs are amazing. Your true interior Alaska Cold Start Video will be out when temperatures allow. Haha, it's been an above-average warmer winter. I have been eyeing the new LZ0 paired with the new Interior. I am more of a GMC man myself, but it was something about this Silverado I kept going back to. I call her "Moose", Brown with big ole Antlers as tow mirrors.
Ian, I havent had too many issues with the 3.0L thus far here in Alaska. Its honestly been a great platform thus far. I bought the 3.0L for the longevity of the engine and the overall gas mileage increase when compared to the gas counterparts. I tow around the 3k-5k lbs fairly often and the half ton is WAY more comfortable. I guess to me it really matters what the purpose is for the truck.
@@CHASING_BUILDS it seems like a lot of hassle when a v8 gas engine will work just fine and number 1 will start to gel at -30 where as gas is somewhere around -60 to -120
@@yo9758 Those are great points; if you are living well into the Arctic Circle, it will be hard to live with, especially if you don't have a -40F, much warmer than last year. My DEF freezes all the time, which will throw a trouble code but once thawed out, it will go away. That is honestly the most annoying thing about it.
Do they make any parts for the 2.8L? We have loved our Transcooler and bypass block from them. Installing the rear differential cover here soon. Love the quality of the parts!
@@CHASING_BUILDS PPE doesn’t make anything for the 2.8 although I have HOUNDED them. Maby you could call in also and ask them. Before I got my modern yellow star and was booted off Facebook for being conservative I got a campaign going in some of the 2.8 groups to hound PPE for 2.8 goodies. My 2.8 I did a custom trans cooler with a thermostat so it will still stay warm in Wyoming and the PML pan. I put in the CX racing intercooler because the DT44 turbo and hot tune melted stock intercooler plastic end tank. If you go the CX racing intercooler route throw their hot and cold side boots away and upgrade to longer HPS or similar couplers. The biggest complaint about the CX kit is the couplers are too short and people fight boost leaks. After I sorted all that mess out it performs nicely and banks Idash shows it keeps cold side within 20 degrees of ambient temp even on long boost adventures up long grades.
3mpg towing or highway? Summer Time with a heavy foot, I average about ~26mpg highway and ~16mpg towing out 5k lbs trailer. The cold weather killed the mileage haha By the way; I have a soft spot for the ole Square Bodies. Tried and true. Make sure you hang on to it!
Hold on...Do you mean half the cylinders or have the displacement? If you really mean half the cylinders, that means your burban is running a 12 cylinder by my math and I want to see it.
It really is a shame that GM carried over the duramax nameplate over to a little 2.8/3.0 diesel.. that’s the way of the world I guess.. I’ll stick with the 6.6 and 3/4 ton chassis
Cody, this topic would honestly be a wonderful video comparison. Thank you for the idea! I LOVE my 6.6L durmax. But I would have to argue as much as I love the 6.6L with the 3/4 Chassis which is great when im towing 10k+ lbs and has insane power; the 1500 with the 3.0L DURAMAX is much easier on the pocket book in terms of fuel consumption and comfort. It fits the right crowd in terms of capabilty. Hopefully that makes sense. I would defiently recommend owning one of each, can't go wrong with owning best of both worlds.
@@CHASING_BUILDS definitely I think every truck has its own purpose/niche and there is a need for a good 1/2 ton diesel option for those who don’t need a heavy duty truck! I just think its odd that GM carries the nameplate over even though the engines don’t share much in common and the Duramax has always been a 6.6 V8 diesel
@@codystrom8708 Very true, plus the DURAMAX dominates the mid-size Diesel market over the Powerstroke and Cummins competition. I tip my hat to the ground-up redesign of the 3.0L DURAMAX. You can also own a diesel engine for under the $50k mark. The Duramax also gives the 6.2L a run for its money in terms of torque numbers, and fingers crossed we see the longevity out of the 3.0L that we see from the 6.6L.
You stick with what works for you, my new 3.0 has 5 more hp and 20 lbs less torque compared to my old 6.6 duramax, took a big poop and didn’t even notice the differenceI now have 2x the gears. My 2002 3/4 ton is for sale and gets 10 less highway mpg
@@jakesvideos8204 the 2002 model is LB7 which is by far the least desirable and powerful duramax and has the 5 speed Allison compared to the 6 speed the later models have. I use my 3/4 ton for towing/working more than daily driving so I’ll trade a little fuel economy for reliability and more heavy duty chassis
In my experience, some perform better than others but I believe my point on all weather was geared towards the accessories and the detail GM put into things like their Block Heater Line.
Those active grill shutters aren’t just for warm up they function continuously throughout the driving range not only for temperature control but also aerodynamics for maximizing fuel economy.
Great Point! They work wonders!
Do all of the trim levels have the shutters?
@@tylerrohn6938
As far as l know they do
@@tylerrohn6938 yes
I'm in the NWT, I have added 2x battery heaters and an oil pan heater in addition to the stock block heater. My truck fires up no issues everytime and there's been a few nights I've forgotten to plug it in at -40 over night and it will fire up everytime. It's a 2020 2500HD, I do have the active grill shutters and in town it maintained heat in the cab but on some longer road trips when temps were in the -30's or lower it did have a bit of an issue getting really hot in the cab so I've got a winter front for it this year. No issues with the DEF system. I kept my tank slightly lower than 1/2 full and had no limp mode issues.
Good job with the extra heaters on the trans and oil pan When I had a 2.8 diesel canyon I put one on the oil pan Traded it in for a 6.2 Denali because of frozen emissions problems on the 2.8 ✌️🇨🇦
Great truck. But for my use case, pulling a very similar trailer to this video with a race car inside, the 2500 gas was a better and cheaper option. Allowing for some headroom in terms of capacity if I step up from a 10k lb trailer to a 14k. We got an LT 6.6 gas Alaskan package for 56k, in the north east we could not touch a 3.0 or a 6.2 1500 for less than 70k.
Same up here; I was lucky with the one I picked up. I have been really happy with it thus far; we just bought another Duramax....it'll make an appearance here soon. I was toying with the idea of a gasser; the limiting factor I am finding with this 3.0L is the truck's weight and other components as a 1500. My payload is only ~1400 lbs, you throw a loaded trailer on this truck that has a max tongue weight of 900lbs and you'll only have enough wiggle room for a Driver / Passenger. I've got a scale en route. Going to play around with the load. The LZ0 has certainly headed in the right direction with a 13.3k max tow; I am sure the payload has increased.
The payload being low is a function of the truck being a high country. An RST would but up around 1800lbs. My Trailboss is 1700lbs payload.
@@terrencejones9817 For sure, definitely a concern as the Tongue Weight increases.
You could probably pull that same trailer with a 6.6 at about 1-2 mpg less. I pull a fifth wheel with a 3500hd at 11 mpg but not that cold, but running full ac.
All I can say is I'm glad I live in FL now. 45 years of cold in MA was enough for me.
I feel this!!
I have places in MA and NH. Minus 20f at the NH house and minus 5f here on Cape Cod yesterday! Fortunately it's back to 30f today but FL sounds good now.
@@BobPritchard where on the cape? My parents have a home in West Dennis. If you're ever interested in SWFL let me know, I could help ya.
@@ChrisLincolnHomes Falmouth. Used to rent at Cold Storage Beach in Dennis. Beautiful. I would love to go Florida for the winter but the wife is a full time volunteer here!
The transmission also has a coolant/trans oil heat exchanger from the factory to help the trans fluid warm up, you can briefly see the corner of it when you show the aftermarket heater. Great video!
I didnt even know that! Thats amazing, I appreciate it man!
We have a 21 at4 with the baby duramax. It’s got around 60 000 km on it. Early on we were plagued with no start long crank issue followed by a water pump issue that was was replaced. Since about 25000 km we have been problem free.
Luckily I haven’t had that fan issue. I only plug it in when it’s going to be colder than -18 Celsius as per the user manual.
I’d have to say in general I’m annoyed with the def usage overall. Not just towing. I’m dumping a jug in every 5-7 weeks. When I owned a 2017 cummins I dumped a jug in every 6 months.
Todd, me to brother...me too. Its crazy. Spend as much on DEF as I do fuel half the time when I'm towing....lol
What symptoms did you have with your waterpump?
@@CHASING_BUILDS for months the thermostat needle moved all over. Almost red lining then it would drop below normal operating temp. Never sat at any one position very long. Then one day we got an engine light and a warning message saying get to dealership within 250 km or something along those lines.
Great video! The baby duramax is top of my list for my next truck but being in Canada I’m nervous of def in the cold. Hearing there is a heater in the def tank gives me confidence - thanks!
The only extra winterization I’ve done to my 6.7 Cummins is a noco battery maintainer and I’d highly recommend. Diesels use up a lot of battery power and your charging system can’t always top it up, especially in the cold.
Thank you so much! I wanted to share my first hand experience with the truck and what ive learned over the year. I am making a video now but my DEF tank ended up freezing and essentially exploded from the top. I left it outside overnight (like most of the nights). It had 1/2 tank of DEF, plugged in etc. The dealer ended up covering it under warranty but they ended up replacing the tank + pump and harness. Super expensive if it was'nt covered.Something to keep in mind if you dont have the means to park inside.
@@CHASING_BUILDS oh no! That’s my biggest concern with def systems, having them freeze and leaving you in limp mode in the middle of nowhere. Guess I’m sticking with my pre-def Cummins a while longer. Thanks for the info!
@@stringtheoryangling happenend to mme 3 time in 2 years on the baby dmax
This is just the type of information I need. Thanks.
If you ever have any questions, feel free to let me know. I'll do my best to answer them!
Great video!, My 2023 does the same thing, if it’s 0-10 degrees I just plug it in for one hour. Disconnect battery if you don’t feel like cold soaking your truck.
That's smart; this same thing also happened to a coworker's 2023 2.7L. Silverado. It certainly took a moment and digging to find information on it and how to resolve it.
Or a battery heat cozy. Keeps the battery warm
@@xlthumper That's so smart!
it's actually the aerodynamics that makes the most difference with mileage when towing. i was able to get 18mpg pulling a 2k flatbed trailer with my 2021 Sierra LM2, while pulling a 14' cargo trailer, you're lucky to get 14mpg.
I haven't had the pleasure of towing a flatbed yet but I can certainly imagine. Especially if you have a head wind.
Bro thank you so much, none of the Chevrolet service centers around me could seem to find that bulletin or explain to me why in the cooling fans were coming on at full tilt.
So glad I was able to help! There isn't too much out there on the truck so it certainly took some digging to grab information on the truck.
That fan at 100 percent while plugged in is a glitch with the GM software. I really wish they'd fix this. Super annoying... Commented before I watched it all LOL you went into detail for it.. great video..
I appreciate it, Tony; I only wanted to scratch the surface on the issue. Took me a solid hour to find info on it; I thought it deserved a video. I had a coworker with the 2.7L driving over a week with his fans at 100%, before I asked him about it. He had no idea, crazy thing was that he was driving with a cold engine...that can't be good for the overall health.
It honestly needs a recall as it affects all of their trucks, from my understanding, not just the 3.0L. I don't think it would be too hard to reflash/update, but then again, it probably only affects the population of owners living in colder climates.
I pulled the battery terminal to reset the fans. Worked like a charm
That is the other easy way to solve it, smart thinking!
@@CHASING_BUILDS Negative specifically as per Manufacture instruction.
I would also recommend a battery maintainer, because of al the electronics there is a small drain on the batteries. Plus the cold eventually the batteries can go flat in a few days. Especially if you added things like a dash cam with a parking mode.
Smart! I've got one that I pop under the hood when it sits outside for more than a week. Defiently helps keep the battery happy!
I can see why the ecm needs to know when the block heater is connected for one reason- to prevent driving while connected to the cord. Also- I would not change the diff cover. See Gale Banks for why.
Thanks Chuck! I'll have to check that out. It might be a little late for it but I'll keep the OEM cover just in case.
Did those tow mirrors come on the truck from the factory?
They sure did and they are HUGE! The truck's nickname is MOOSE, partly becuase of those large mirrors.
Nice ride and video. Where'd you find the steely wheels for it as that's a great winter setup.
Honestly, they came with the truck when I bought it. They definitely make for a more enjoyable ride in the winter other than my 22” wheels. Totally worth it; with the studs!
@@CHASING_BUILDS Thanks...I may have to round up a set for next winter. I threw some 20" AT4/Elevation wheels on mine and really like them but was thinking that some steelies would help me keep the 20" in better condition.
@@CHASING_BUILDS Sorry, but I have one more question. Are the steel wheels 20"?
I would have loved if you would have shown the vehicle load and tow ratings from the drivers door jamb sticker. Unless that truck has the Max Tow package you appear to be way over the tow rating. Most trucks I've see without it have a maximum trainer rate of 8.800 lbs with a 880lb max tongue weight.
You are spot on. If the trailer is maxed out, with the GVWR I would be overweight. Empty or lightly loaded the trailer is perfect. Tongue weight should be around 10-15% of the trailer's gross from my understanding. I think 6k-7k is the preferred weight behind these "smaller" trucks.
Another great video!
Thanks, brother!
Curious if GM is going to change to the LZ0 new 3.0 duramax in the Yukon, Tahoe and Escalade like they did in the Silverado and the sierra that’s now 305 hp and 495 ftlbs instead of this one with 277 hp and 460 ftlbs
@chasing_builds I just bought a 23silverado with the 3.0l. Took it on the highyway in -20deg temps and I was struggling to get the cabin temps to warm up. I tried the auto setting, manual fan settings, recirc on/off , etc. It was putting out luke warm air. Engine temp was normal. I called the dealership and they said they have had a rash of both gas and diesel trucks coming in because of the cold temps, complaining of the same issue. They told me to get a winterfront for it but GM doesn't make a factory one for these trucks. After watching your video you mentioned you had one but it didn't work. Not sure which route to take now. Which brand did you use?
I purchased the FIA brand, I beleive it was close to $200. I found the best results when keeping the truck in the heated garage then exposing it to the temperatures. Frozen Cab, Leather, Plastic etc just radiates the chill significantly more and makes the cab feel much colder than it would be; if stored at normal temperatures. The 3.0L has the front plastic acuators behind the grille from factory to help close off the engine bay. The acuators would be closed at idle and open up to help regulate with temps. I didn't notice significant change with the 3.0L, also the smaller displacement of engines also plays a part in temps. My 6.6L DURAMAX heats up the cab far more than the 3.0L. Same applies to gas engines I've owned in the past. More Displacement = more heat generation. On the flip side, you can only warm up a cab so much in temperatures that extreme haha The joys!!
Dealer can reprogram the ECU for the cooling fan issue. Dealer did my 2020 for me once they had the update. Have a 2022 now and it’s been fine from the factory. Going to be about 30F when my timer kicks in at 2:00 AM, haven’t had one problem with it.
Wow. Thank you so much for the information! The truck is scheduled to go in the dealer here in a week or so, Ill have them take care of it then.
I'd be curious on in-depth of towing that long of an enclosed. How it does in windy conditions, sway problems, etc.
We didnt experience much wind. However I did get sway above 63 mph+
Enroute back we actually purchased a sway bar hitch to counter that. It helps keep it in line now. According to the owners manual, a sway bar / weight distribution hitch is highly reccomend when towing above 7k lbs. I think moving forward; it will be on regardless.
Great video!!!
Thanks Ash!
Thanks Great Video For Me Salute to you
Thanks Fiaz, more to come!
You know that rear differential cover is not going to do a single thing right? If anything it will cause your fluid to foam.
I have a 2020 2500 duramax and pull a trailer with four zero turn mowers, the gross weight is around 8000 lbs. It pulls it great but was thinking of trading it for a 2023 3.0, the question is will it handle it and would I be happy with it coming from a 6.6.
Honestly, I think you'd be happy towing with that weight especially if you use the truck as a daily and weekend warriror becuase the 27+ mpg is nice but you want to get a base trim with higher payload for your application. First, you want to confirm the Tongue Weight on your trailer as the payload for my particular truck is only 1452 lbs (HighCountry) so an 8k trailer should give you about 800-850 lbs of tongue weight which in turn would only leave you with about 600lbs of payload. If you've got a 4-person crew plus equipment you'd bust the payload on the truck. I find the ideal towing is about 6k lbs on the 3.0L in terms of flexibility of persons / equipment. However, you could load the truck up, tow 10k lbs and it would easily do it; you'd just be outside the manufacture's recommended numbers. Plus that new LZ0 motor is an absoulute work horse, it made this LM2 which is already good; better.
The biggest limiting factor is the frame, suspension, and brakes on a 1500. The 3.0L in terms of numbers and power has it.
Awwwwww it’s a baby diesel 😂
I love my baby diesel
Me too!
You running snows on the trailer? I have a 26 footer and want to take it out in the snow
Unfortunately not, just your standard all-season tires. The truck, on the other hand, does have studded tires on and was planted all the way.
@@CHASING_BUILDS cool I have a dually with snows and standard on the trailer. I wanna go winter drifting so im gonna test it out see how it goes. Love your setup Cheers
Winter Drifting, right on! Thanks man
Do you have any info or link on the oil pan and transmission oil pan heater pads?
Any of the KATZ branded Silicone Heating Pads are a great option. Mine are 100W each.
Thanks. What’s the temp of the transmission oil when you start the truck up?
Holy crap. I get about 5000 miles per def tank on my Cummins. 30-40% towing about 8-10K lbs
I would delete it if I could, this 3.0L is a DEF-AHOLIC.
I have a 2022 GMC with the 3.0 and a tank about every 5K is what I have been seeing.
@@edwardpate6128 That's what I see, but the moment I tow, it plummets! Its not too bad but definitely worth a mention.
My 6.6 Dmax averages roughly 4-5k as well . i think it holds about 5 gal of DEF and sends a reminder when im down to 1k miles left
Says unplug b4 starting in the manual
I get between 20-25 mpg towing a 16 foot flat bed with a 4k jeep on it with my 3.0. If i get a strong headwind (like in kansas) then i'll drop to 16-18. My 16 foot enclosed trailer im begging for 10 mpg.
That sounds about right, from what I’ve experienced which honestly isn’t bad at all!
If the aftermarket builds itself up well I’m convinced this may be the best base platform for overlanding fun. 6 seats for larger families, a bed or camper shell. 30+ mpg not towing. I get 600 miles to a tank on the highway and over 500 in town.
What about diesel anti-gel?
So up here we have #1 at almost every station. It has a lower viscosity and is not prone to gel in freezing temperatures. Haven't had too much but I do alternate my trucks with a garage so it has time to full thaw out.
The extreme DEF usage is because the poor little engine is working its ass off. Boost equals NOX, NOX is the reason for the DEF. High combustion temps are the result of high boost levels. That 3L has to work to tow, all of these 3 litres diesels are personal use primarily. All half tons are really personal use really
That’s great information, most definitely. I don’t see it struggling that much for it’s sticker weight but again being a half ton it’s very limited on payload
@CHASING BUILDS its not that its struggling. It's that it's working hard to maintain speed. It doesn't seem like it's working all that hard because it's 460lbft at 1750rpm. So many people fail to understand what does the work. HP is just the rate in which work gets done
460lbft is 460lbft right?
460lbft@1750rpm is 153hp
460lbft@4100rpm is 359hp
Both are generating the same amount of force. They can do the same work in the same gear, the 6.2 V8 can do it faster. It work the same with the hp
277hp@3750 is 387lbft
420hp@5600 is 393lbft
Very close in capability this is why the 3l duramax has a very similar GCWR to the 6.2, and it's the primary reason it gets better mileage too. It's doing the same amount of work at a far slower rpm with less cylinders. BMEP is far better and easier to utilize on the diesel. BMEP is the most capable torque at the slowest speed available. It's doing the most work with the least amount of fuel. This is why diesels are best for work. They don't depend on Stoichiometric air/fuel to operate properly(14.7:1). More air will mean more power(there is a limit), and more boost means higher combustion temp(NoX) and thus more DEF.
I miss Fairbanks :/
The interior is beautiful!
Steelies on the high country! 😭😭😭
HAHA yeah looking forward to the summer; I cant wait to put the other wheels on.
Useful enough, but it's clear you swapped to winter tires, yet no mention of those in the winterization video? Also, nobody drives up and down the Parks Highway all winter long without auxiliary lighting. Either the Silverado has some awesome lights, or you did the trip entirely in the daylight (as I assume from the photo of the Denali sign during daylight).
That winter front can be more than useless on a vehicle with grille shutters. I have one on my (pre-puke-ugly restyle) Duramax HD, and even in sub-zero temperatures, it will cause EGTs to soar with a sizable trailer.
I was hoping you would post some real cold start videos. My neighbor has a new 3.0 Duramax and had troubles starting during a cold spell when it was left in the Fairbanks airport parking lot for a couple week. I own a lot a diesels and have never had cold temperature start issues, even down to -50. Your -15 degree starts don't really mean much to me. I'd love to see a true interior Alaska cold start video.
Love the engine, unfortunately not the truck. GM has a habit of introducing gag-worthy trucks (aesthetically), and then making them look less hideous over the course of 5 years or so, before introducing something even uglier. I think I will wait until GM is about to introduce the next version of the Silverado, to see if I could stomach the current version enough to buy one.
Bert, you are spot on, man.
Yes, I have studded tires on the truck, man does the towing feel night/day over the factory 22" wheels, and these tires grip on all the ice we have up here. One of my favorite things to do for all of my vehicles. I toyed with mentioning it but left it out, trying to focus on the 3.0L, if that makes sense.
The lights are beautiful, but oh buddy the lights do not put out as I needed; or expected. I had difficulties seeing out farther than 300', especially along the shoulder. Only about the last 3 hours of driving was in the dark...never again. Moose lights will be going on if this becomes more regular.
You and me both; I am waiting for -40 to hit to get the cold start. It honestly isn't too bad. It's the only time I have to "wait to start" to give it a couple seconds to warm up; the plugs are amazing. Your true interior Alaska Cold Start Video will be out when temperatures allow. Haha, it's been an above-average warmer winter. I have been eyeing the new LZ0 paired with the new Interior. I am more of a GMC man myself, but it was something about this Silverado I kept going back to. I call her "Moose", Brown with big ole Antlers as tow mirrors.
Not saying anything, but I think it’s pretty dumb to buy a diesel in Alaska unless you need it an you definitely don’t need it in a half ton
Ian, I havent had too many issues with the 3.0L thus far here in Alaska. Its honestly been a great platform thus far. I bought the 3.0L for the longevity of the engine and the overall gas mileage increase when compared to the gas counterparts. I tow around the 3k-5k lbs fairly often and the half ton is WAY more comfortable. I guess to me it really matters what the purpose is for the truck.
@@CHASING_BUILDS it seems like a lot of hassle when a v8 gas engine will work just fine and number 1 will start to gel at -30 where as gas is somewhere around -60 to -120
@@yo9758 Those are great points; if you are living well into the Arctic Circle, it will be hard to live with, especially if you don't have a -40F, much warmer than last year. My DEF freezes all the time, which will throw a trouble code but once thawed out, it will go away. That is honestly the most annoying thing about it.
Time for a PPE Intercooler…
Do they make any parts for the 2.8L? We have loved our Transcooler and bypass block from them. Installing the rear differential cover here soon. Love the quality of the parts!
@@CHASING_BUILDS PPE doesn’t make anything for the 2.8 although I have HOUNDED them. Maby you could call in also and ask them. Before I got my modern yellow star and was booted off Facebook for being conservative I got a campaign going in some of the 2.8 groups to hound PPE for 2.8 goodies. My 2.8 I did a custom trans cooler with a thermostat so it will still stay warm in Wyoming and the PML pan. I put in the CX racing intercooler because the DT44 turbo and hot tune melted stock intercooler plastic end tank. If you go the CX racing intercooler route throw their hot and cold side boots away and upgrade to longer HPS or similar couplers. The biggest complaint about the CX kit is the couplers are too short and people fight boost leaks. After I sorted all that mess out it performs nicely and banks Idash shows it keeps cold side within 20 degrees of ambient temp even on long boost adventures up long grades.
Ok half the cylinders of my 1996 suburban your only getting about 3 mpg better sorry it still isn’t sold for me honestly.
3mpg towing or highway? Summer Time with a heavy foot, I average about ~26mpg highway and ~16mpg towing out 5k lbs trailer. The cold weather killed the mileage haha
By the way; I have a soft spot for the ole Square Bodies. Tried and true. Make sure you hang on to it!
Hold on...Do you mean half the cylinders or have the displacement? If you really mean half the cylinders, that means your burban is running a 12 cylinder by my math and I want to see it.
What???? Rust on a chevy. How can this be
It really is a shame that GM carried over the duramax nameplate over to a little 2.8/3.0 diesel.. that’s the way of the world I guess.. I’ll stick with the 6.6 and 3/4 ton chassis
Cody, this topic would honestly be a wonderful video comparison. Thank you for the idea!
I LOVE my 6.6L durmax. But I would have to argue as much as I love the 6.6L with the 3/4 Chassis which is great when im towing 10k+ lbs and has insane power; the 1500 with the 3.0L DURAMAX is much easier on the pocket book in terms of fuel consumption and comfort. It fits the right crowd in terms of capabilty.
Hopefully that makes sense. I would defiently recommend owning one of each, can't go wrong with owning best of both worlds.
@@CHASING_BUILDS definitely I think every truck has its own purpose/niche and there is a need for a good 1/2 ton diesel option for those who don’t need a heavy duty truck! I just think its odd that GM carries the nameplate over even though the engines don’t share much in common and the Duramax has always been a 6.6 V8 diesel
@@codystrom8708 Very true, plus the DURAMAX dominates the mid-size Diesel market over the Powerstroke and Cummins competition. I tip my hat to the ground-up redesign of the 3.0L DURAMAX. You can also own a diesel engine for under the $50k mark. The Duramax also gives the 6.2L a run for its money in terms of torque numbers, and fingers crossed we see the longevity out of the 3.0L that we see from the 6.6L.
You stick with what works for you, my new 3.0 has 5 more hp and 20 lbs less torque compared to my old 6.6 duramax, took a big poop and didn’t even notice the differenceI now have 2x the gears. My 2002 3/4 ton is for sale and gets 10 less highway mpg
@@jakesvideos8204 the 2002 model is LB7 which is by far the least desirable and powerful duramax and has the 5 speed Allison compared to the 6 speed the later models have. I use my 3/4 ton for towing/working more than daily driving so I’ll trade a little fuel economy for reliability and more heavy duty chassis
#1 Diesel fuel has lower energy content so your fuel economy in winter won’t be good.
I can for sure see that!!
Probably the only thing preventing me from buying one are the idiots in Washington DC.
Been full of idiots sense the signing of the declaration of independence.
All the DEF and no tuning thus far
all production engines are all weather engines
In my experience, some perform better than others but I believe my point on all weather was geared towards the accessories and the detail GM put into things like their Block Heater Line.
@@CHASING_BUILDS yeah. The gms come with engine block heaters and grille covers for cold weather. Gm is doing it right