@RCTNT that's brilliant mate speak soon when you first your speed run. I will get to sort my ak-917 out on the setup. I'm not sure on the spur because stock it's plastic can you stick 35t steel spur in there on 32dp or is it got to be 48dp let me know thanks 😊
You got this you are a brilliant man that your mind never shuts down. Remember right now you have the opportunity to live your best life. And it’s awesome to see you growing.
3M dual lock has some serious holding power. It's common to see it on guitar (effects) pedalboards to secure the pedals. One trick I have seen is table a butter knife/regular table knife to help separate the dual lock. Looking forward to seeing the update! I'm sure it'll be pretty thrilling either way. With that kind of speed it's pretty amazing how quickly you can run out of road :)
This is really exciting! I know you’re knew at this but I sincerely hope to see you place at least near the top of the list. Closer to the the top than bottom anyway lol
lol referring to KT are you? "more motors + more batteries = more speed"! No, it actually doesn't. You add the weight of the motors + the weight of the batteries + the weight of the speed controllers = more mass to move so a lot of the "power" gain is used up moving the additional weight. If the max rpm of the motor x gearing through the drive train x circumference of the tires = a theoretical top speed of 190 mph, doesn't matter HOW many motors you add, you'll only go 190 mph. (that's without aerodynamics). I think one should be shooting for a theoretical top speed of around 200 mph to get 160 and 300 mph to get 200. (this is accounting for aero and weight drag loss). I learned about this from a marine engineer and hull speed. "you can put 1000 hp in your boat but you'll never go faster than 90 mph, that's the hull speed". 2 bigger motors = more weight = hull sits lower in the water = more drag = 90 mph.
Thanks for the wisdom. This is what I had. No time. Could have planned it better! Though I will say I calculated gearing and voltage with the motors' max rpm in mind. It's also why the 3S/4S system is only using one battery. And I actually expect that one will be the faster of the two!
@@RCTNT maybe I have phrased it wrong. Disintegration due to speed should describe it better. It may be good to have a set of spares if you encounter a disintegration issue.
Ah I see, that makes sense. I've got 3 sets for this and have chunked wheels out before. I only expect to get one run per set and then anything more is a bonus. I love the idea though, it's very good.
Hey buddy! Can you tell me what motor mounts work on the Rlaarlo carbon chassis with a bigger TP motor (4040) and mod1 gearing? I just got a TP motor and it’s too big for the Rlaarlo adj. motor mount. Thanks!
I actually used the Rlaarlo mount for my installation. I just put spacers under it, and under everything else in the rear, including the diff. That gave the motor the clearance it needed. Not an ideal solution, but it worked!
Not sure the tires on the aluminium body is going to hold up. Also did you check the shock oil an droop screws on yours? Mine had very little oil and one screw was further down making the car skittish on the road.
I'm not sure either, but they've survived full speed on the stand, so that's a promising start. They're quite good. But I'll be using foams for the faster runs. All shocks have been rebuilt and oil checked. I made rubber limiters for the rears and put them in the shock bodies too. Droop screws carefully adjusted on all corners. I've put hours and hours into prep. Hopefully it's enough! Thanks for the ideas, it's good to make sure!
oh yeah, don't be disappointed if you only hit 155, you're dealing with cooler denser air remember. Most of those speed runs are in the north where it's summer and the air is less dense. (unless it's super high humidity).
@@RCTNT I have faith in you, I think 100 should be a breeze for you. Not sure how long it takes for your GPS to register "top speed" but like a drag race, you only have to do it for a few seconds. (and those guys rebuild their engines after every run).
Thanks, my biggest problem is smooth roads. I don't have any. Bigger gravel means less contact with the road and more potential for disastrous bumps. Gonna walk it first and clear what I can. We'll see. Have two 1km stretches to check out this week.
@@RCTNT yeah that's a HUGE issue. I know you're out in the boonies but the BEST place is a large whse with polished concrete floors (tho traction is then an issue). I know when riding my motorcycle I'll come across some recently paved road sections and it's ahhhhhh sooooo smoooth lol They recently paved my driveway to my shop and they weren't too worried, it's about as even as Jennifer Aniston's sweater! lol
I have a castle 1717 and momba X8S in mine and its way faster than I'm skilled. These little cars are pretty cool for the price for sure.! See ya on the race track👍
2:13 make sure you keep an eye on your wheels and tires...LOTS of speed run ppl forget that the tires aren't designed to take that kind of stress and fly apart. Bugatti only uses their tires once per run. (and you're hitting speeds twice or more than they are).
Thanks, I'm on it. Have several sets of foam tires for speed runs and will keep a close eye on the rubber, yep. Thanks for the reminder, it's about the most important thing innit!
@@RCTNT since the tires on it now have tread, you could see about putting fishing line or ? in the groove to keep them from separating. it depends tho on how many runs and how fast they'll be spinning. One thing people ignore on these speed runs is tire dia. Smaller tires spin faster.
Of course. Haven't ignored it, the diameter has been part of my calculations. Suspension tuning, limiting the rear, lowering the front, comparing various tire diameters and compounds, etc etc. I've been pleasantly surprised by the nicer tires that come on the CF version of the AK-917 here. They're stiffer than the ones that came with the alloy version, but even those barely balloon even at high speed - though, that's on a stand and not working hard on the road. I think I'll start just with the tires when i do my initial runs (when it stops raining). Will save the foams for when I open the taps on the second round of the challenge!
@@RCTNT someone on KT's channel had a good suggestion too: ceramic bearings. The grease in the ball bearings creates rolling resistance I don't think you use grease in ceramic. I don't know how long steel bearings would last, but you want to reduce rolling resistance, remove the grease out of the bearings. They spin for a good 30 secs w/o grease not even 1 second with.
You mentioned in a previous video that the carbon chassis car was like a completely different beast to the metal version. How so please? Love your videos, good luck.
I'm going to cover this in a future video, but in short, you get a nicer chassis (it's so much nicer), the split center shaft (no vibration at higher speed), better wheels and unexpectedly better tires for speed (but maybe not for track, they're harder compound), the full light system, fan in the lid, better ESC, faster motor, metal spur gear.. I think that's it but I may have missed a thing or two. In short, the CF version is so much nicer than the alloy version, I honestly don't know why they've gone half-way with the brushless alloy one. They should have done a cheap brushed option like they did, then bling out the gorgeous CF one like they did. Less choice, more compelling buy for the CF version, and I tell you what, Arrma and Traxxas would have something to be a bit worried about once Rlaarlo gets their customer support and shipping speed sorted. (And the latter is already done, I just did a $100 test order yesterday and it's already shipped). Give this brand another year and it'll be a big name at this rate. Obviously I get a small commission for sales, but I have yet to get a cent from Rlaarlo because I haven't made a lot of sales via my channel, so I have a couple of their cars here (which I paid for with hours of work for the videos I've made), but my point is I'm otherwise the same as anyone else with regard to my opinion of the company. I think they've had some lessons to learn but they're the real deal and I'm excited for the future of this group!
Craig: you're techi enough: NO one is using capacitors. I figure use a single lipo to get you "near" and then a small high amp/volt capacitor to push her over the edge. I see people putting tons of weight in batteries trying to get the amp/voltage up when the whole thing could be achieved with a single capacitor. Think of it as "electric NOS".
I like it, but I suspect the size of the bank I'd need to give sustained current over the 5 or 6 seconds of open throttle would be similar to or even bigger than a second lipo. However, an electronically actuated dump gate for a charged cap bank might do it. Just gotta time it manually or configure a simple eeprom circuit to trigger on a certain voltage. I'll have to think about that. It's an idea with merit at the least. Just gotta determine if an extra lipo makes more sense. They can handle some hefty discharge already. Thanks for the idea!
@@RCTNT well, the thing about "top speed" is, at ROSSA at least, you only need it for 1 second. The speed traps are only about 6' apart. At 200 mph that's nothing. I looked up the size of a 20V 100a cap and from what I could tell, they were about the size of a single AA battery. I know the cap for my washing machine was 120V 40A and it was the size of a D size battery. I don't fully "get" brushless motors, but with a brushed motor all you'd need was a servo with a momentary switch connected directly to the + and - on the motor. Like NOS, if the discharge amperage was too much, you'd probably just spin the tires......or if you got grip, it's take off before you could react lol "MIKE!!!!! the car ended up in sydney harbour" lol
If the discharge is too much, nothing extra should happen. Discharge is a function of motor draw and they have a maximum current. The problem with caps is 1 second is a really long time. I contend that you'd need that extra lift for 4 or more seconds, unless you're picturing maxing out the battery and just when you're at peak discharge to then dump the cap for that nitrous-like boost. I'm not sure how practical it'll be. With a brushed motor you could just keep the cap attached and when battery supply falls away, the cap will empty to maintain current availability. For brushless, you'd need to control it on the battery side of the esc. I'm not sure it'd be better than simply using smaller, high discharge batteries. Thinking about it anyway, it's an interesting problem.
@@RCTNT yeah, exactly what I was thinking because (as I understand it) the rotation of the armature is controlled by the esc computer pulses to each of the poles on the magnets. A high voltage discharge might fry the esc and prevent the current from even reaching the motor. I only have experience with brushed motors and I've seen them over voltage....they spin like a mofo lol. (I put 110 into a 12 volt one time as a kid lol).
I appreciate all of the mentions and of course I still smile every time 🤣👍
I'm getting maximum value from these ESCs, Scott!
Brilliant video mate good luck on the speed run hopefully you will get 160 to 170mph 😮😮
I hope so too. Might need a miracle on this goat track! My Part 3 video publishes 4.5 hours from now. It was an interesting day!
@RCTNT that's brilliant mate speak soon when you first your speed run. I will get to sort my ak-917 out on the setup. I'm not sure on the spur because stock it's plastic can you stick 35t steel spur in there on 32dp or is it got to be 48dp let me know thanks 😊
You can't use different meshes unless you change both the spur and the pinion. If you do change them both then definitely, go for it :)
@RCTNT yh thanks for that buddy what's the pitch is it 48dp or 64dp on the pinion and spar gear let me know 😉
It's 48p throughout. I've linked to rlaarlo's parts in the description but any 48p gears that fit the motor will do.
Looking good- can't wait to see it ROLL‼️👍👍🦾🦾
....forward and not over, right? We will see!
@@RCTNT Forward Indeed ‼️👍👍🦾🦾
You got this you are a brilliant man that your mind never shuts down. Remember right now you have the opportunity to live your best life. And it’s awesome to see you growing.
Thanks Dan! I have only gratitude for what I get to do here. Appreciate the kind thoughts
Craig I'm sure you will do great!! And can't wait for the video's...
Thanks Roy! I think we'll do some learning either way :D
Looking good and looking forward to seeing them in action! I hope you make it in, Good luck too you👍
Thanks, me too! Appreciate the well wishes
Break a leg, bud! fingers crossed for ya! Super excited to seeing how it went!
Thanks, me too. Will be running this week. Only filmed this yesterday afternoon, it's really down to the wire.
Oh wow, very cool :) Can't wait to see you light up those tires.
I'm not sure how long they'll last but I guess we'll find out!
3M dual lock has some serious holding power. It's common to see it on guitar (effects) pedalboards to secure the pedals. One trick I have seen is table a butter knife/regular table knife to help separate the dual lock. Looking forward to seeing the update! I'm sure it'll be pretty thrilling either way. With that kind of speed it's pretty amazing how quickly you can run out of road :)
Thanks Andy. It's good stuff isn't it!
This is really exciting! I know you’re knew at this but I sincerely hope to see you place at least near the top of the list. Closer to the the top than bottom anyway lol
I hope so too! Thanks :)
Good luck and have fun.
Thanks Michael. It's been a full week! Nearly there :)
@@RCTNT I hope you reach your goal. You've put in a lot of time and effort into the two cars.
I figure I get a good video of it, either way! Thanks
Great stuff..... A considered and calculated approach, rather than just chucking money at it. Good luck, can't wait to see how the cars go!
I'll have em on the road on the next couple of days. Will do the next video soon and yeah, let's see!
lol referring to KT are you? "more motors + more batteries = more speed"! No, it actually doesn't. You add the weight of the motors + the weight of the batteries + the weight of the speed controllers = more mass to move so a lot of the "power" gain is used up moving the additional weight.
If the max rpm of the motor x gearing through the drive train x circumference of the tires = a theoretical top speed of 190 mph, doesn't matter HOW many motors you add, you'll only go 190 mph. (that's without aerodynamics).
I think one should be shooting for a theoretical top speed of around 200 mph to get 160 and 300 mph to get 200. (this is accounting for aero and weight drag loss).
I learned about this from a marine engineer and hull speed. "you can put 1000 hp in your boat but you'll never go faster than 90 mph, that's the hull speed". 2 bigger motors = more weight = hull sits lower in the water = more drag = 90 mph.
Thanks for the wisdom. This is what I had. No time. Could have planned it better!
Though I will say I calculated gearing and voltage with the motors' max rpm in mind. It's also why the 3S/4S system is only using one battery. And I actually expect that one will be the faster of the two!
Well this is different! Very fun!
Yeah!
Always alarming when the notepad comes out!
Do it once, do it right! Or something like that
You may consider fitting heat shrink tubing on a set of foam tires to overcome balooning
Didn't realise foam tires had that problem. Heat shrink isn't a bad idea! Thanks.
@@RCTNT maybe I have phrased it wrong. Disintegration due to speed should describe it better. It may be good to have a set of spares if you encounter a disintegration issue.
Ah I see, that makes sense. I've got 3 sets for this and have chunked wheels out before. I only expect to get one run per set and then anything more is a bonus. I love the idea though, it's very good.
Hey buddy! Can you tell me what motor mounts work on the Rlaarlo carbon chassis with a bigger TP motor (4040) and mod1 gearing? I just got a TP motor and it’s too big for the Rlaarlo adj. motor mount. Thanks!
I actually used the Rlaarlo mount for my installation. I just put spacers under it, and under everything else in the rear, including the diff. That gave the motor the clearance it needed. Not an ideal solution, but it worked!
Not sure the tires on the aluminium body is going to hold up. Also did you check the shock oil an droop screws on yours? Mine had very little oil and one screw was further down making the car skittish on the road.
I'm not sure either, but they've survived full speed on the stand, so that's a promising start. They're quite good. But I'll be using foams for the faster runs.
All shocks have been rebuilt and oil checked. I made rubber limiters for the rears and put them in the shock bodies too.
Droop screws carefully adjusted on all corners.
I've put hours and hours into prep. Hopefully it's enough! Thanks for the ideas, it's good to make sure!
Spoiler: turns out the harder tires on the alu wheels are good to 81MPH :)
oh yeah, don't be disappointed if you only hit 155, you're dealing with cooler denser air remember. Most of those speed runs are in the north where it's summer and the air is less dense. (unless it's super high humidity).
I'll be over the moon to break 100MPH
@@RCTNT I have faith in you, I think 100 should be a breeze for you.
Not sure how long it takes for your GPS to register "top speed" but like a drag race, you only have to do it for a few seconds.
(and those guys rebuild their engines after every run).
Thanks, my biggest problem is smooth roads. I don't have any. Bigger gravel means less contact with the road and more potential for disastrous bumps. Gonna walk it first and clear what I can. We'll see. Have two 1km stretches to check out this week.
@@RCTNT yeah that's a HUGE issue. I know you're out in the boonies but the BEST place is a large whse with polished concrete floors (tho traction is then an issue).
I know when riding my motorcycle I'll come across some recently paved road sections and it's ahhhhhh sooooo smoooth lol
They recently paved my driveway to my shop and they weren't too worried, it's about as even as Jennifer Aniston's sweater! lol
I have a castle 1717 and momba X8S in mine and its way faster than I'm skilled.
These little cars are pretty cool for the price for sure.!
See ya on the race track👍
Haha nicely put. It's way faster than my skills too!
I predict a big smash. I've got an rc8x, a full featured tx for sure. Good luck 👍
I hope you are wrong! But in any event I guess I'll get good material for the next video, eh!
I think you will do well mate
Appreciate the confidence! We'll find out soon!
2:13 make sure you keep an eye on your wheels and tires...LOTS of speed run ppl forget that the tires aren't designed to take that kind of stress and fly apart. Bugatti only uses their tires once per run. (and you're hitting speeds twice or more than they are).
Thanks, I'm on it. Have several sets of foam tires for speed runs and will keep a close eye on the rubber, yep. Thanks for the reminder, it's about the most important thing innit!
@@RCTNT since the tires on it now have tread, you could see about putting fishing line or ? in the groove to keep them from separating.
it depends tho on how many runs and how fast they'll be spinning. One thing people ignore on these speed runs is tire dia. Smaller tires spin faster.
Of course. Haven't ignored it, the diameter has been part of my calculations. Suspension tuning, limiting the rear, lowering the front, comparing various tire diameters and compounds, etc etc.
I've been pleasantly surprised by the nicer tires that come on the CF version of the AK-917 here. They're stiffer than the ones that came with the alloy version, but even those barely balloon even at high speed - though, that's on a stand and not working hard on the road.
I think I'll start just with the tires when i do my initial runs (when it stops raining). Will save the foams for when I open the taps on the second round of the challenge!
@@RCTNT someone on KT's channel had a good suggestion too:
ceramic bearings. The grease in the ball bearings creates rolling resistance I don't think you use grease in ceramic.
I don't know how long steel bearings would last, but you want to reduce rolling resistance, remove the grease out of the bearings. They spin for a good 30 secs w/o grease not even 1 second with.
You mentioned in a previous video that the carbon chassis car was like a completely different beast to the metal version. How so please? Love your videos, good luck.
I'm going to cover this in a future video, but in short, you get a nicer chassis (it's so much nicer), the split center shaft (no vibration at higher speed), better wheels and unexpectedly better tires for speed (but maybe not for track, they're harder compound), the full light system, fan in the lid, better ESC, faster motor, metal spur gear.. I think that's it but I may have missed a thing or two.
In short, the CF version is so much nicer than the alloy version, I honestly don't know why they've gone half-way with the brushless alloy one. They should have done a cheap brushed option like they did, then bling out the gorgeous CF one like they did. Less choice, more compelling buy for the CF version, and I tell you what, Arrma and Traxxas would have something to be a bit worried about once Rlaarlo gets their customer support and shipping speed sorted. (And the latter is already done, I just did a $100 test order yesterday and it's already shipped).
Give this brand another year and it'll be a big name at this rate. Obviously I get a small commission for sales, but I have yet to get a cent from Rlaarlo because I haven't made a lot of sales via my channel, so I have a couple of their cars here (which I paid for with hours of work for the videos I've made), but my point is I'm otherwise the same as anyone else with regard to my opinion of the company. I think they've had some lessons to learn but they're the real deal and I'm excited for the future of this group!
Lol thanks. I'll just be delighted if I can crack 100mph and drive away from it! We'll soon see, I'm heading out in an hour!
Craig: you're techi enough: NO one is using capacitors. I figure use a single lipo to get you "near" and then a small high amp/volt capacitor to push her over the edge. I see people putting tons of weight in batteries trying to get the amp/voltage up when the whole thing could be achieved with a single capacitor. Think of it as "electric NOS".
I like it, but I suspect the size of the bank I'd need to give sustained current over the 5 or 6 seconds of open throttle would be similar to or even bigger than a second lipo.
However, an electronically actuated dump gate for a charged cap bank might do it. Just gotta time it manually or configure a simple eeprom circuit to trigger on a certain voltage.
I'll have to think about that. It's an idea with merit at the least. Just gotta determine if an extra lipo makes more sense. They can handle some hefty discharge already. Thanks for the idea!
@@RCTNT well, the thing about "top speed" is, at ROSSA at least, you only need it for 1 second. The speed traps are only about 6' apart. At 200 mph that's nothing.
I looked up the size of a 20V 100a cap and from what I could tell, they were about the size of a single AA battery. I know the cap for my washing machine was 120V 40A and it was the size of a D size battery.
I don't fully "get" brushless motors, but with a brushed motor all you'd need was a servo with a momentary switch connected directly to the + and - on the motor.
Like NOS, if the discharge amperage was too much, you'd probably just spin the tires......or if you got grip, it's take off before you could react lol
"MIKE!!!!! the car ended up in sydney harbour" lol
If the discharge is too much, nothing extra should happen. Discharge is a function of motor draw and they have a maximum current. The problem with caps is 1 second is a really long time. I contend that you'd need that extra lift for 4 or more seconds, unless you're picturing maxing out the battery and just when you're at peak discharge to then dump the cap for that nitrous-like boost.
I'm not sure how practical it'll be. With a brushed motor you could just keep the cap attached and when battery supply falls away, the cap will empty to maintain current availability.
For brushless, you'd need to control it on the battery side of the esc. I'm not sure it'd be better than simply using smaller, high discharge batteries. Thinking about it anyway, it's an interesting problem.
@@RCTNT yeah, exactly what I was thinking because (as I understand it) the rotation of the armature is controlled by the esc computer pulses to each of the poles on the magnets. A high voltage discharge might fry the esc and prevent the current from even reaching the motor.
I only have experience with brushed motors and I've seen them over voltage....they spin like a mofo lol. (I put 110 into a 12 volt one time as a kid lol).