Good explanation. started with a big blue 10", over the last 20 years have learned that a 20" big blue 5 micon spun gradiant seems to last about 9 to `12 months before I get a pressure drop and need to change it. This filter and housing combo keeps my faucets from clogging up with gunk. I use an RO system to further reduce TDS for my drinking water. I buy the 20" filters by the half dozen to keep shipping costs down. I tried 1 micron filters but the just clogged quickly.
Yes, buying filters in bulk is the way to go. We offer free shipping and discoutns for bulk filter purchases on our website www.waterestore.ca in Canada or www.waterestore.com in the USA
jesus christ, thank you so much for the video, it was quick to the point. I've asked a lot of customer reps this question and about gpm and none of them seemed to know anything about the products they were selling
@@water_estore if you're on relatively clean city water would you say that you'd need a sediment trap? If so what micron would be recommended? Currently under the impression that smaller would be better for the small stuff the city doesn't catch?
Great channel, Gary, great information here. Do you have a video of how to change an inline filter for a furnace humidifier ? 😳 Have a MISTER herrmidifier ( NOT a typo. a humidifier attached to the furnace) - it uses an Encapsulated Inline Carbon Replacement Filter ( specifically an Inline encapsulated combination carbon + hexametaphosphate filter with 1/4" female threads. It reduces mineral buildup. ) My humidifier uses model number AP-6 PCLF ( made by allpure.) I need to change this filter. ( I purchased a new one ) ( my home is very dry - avg 30-38% humidity) my HVAC CO have been doing the yearly maintenance but are booked for almost a month. Do you have an instructional video on the proper way for me to replace this inline filter myself ? There are no instructions . Is this something I could run into problem with if DIY ? Sorry this is so long, have a great day. Gracias from New York.
Thank you, Gary. We have hard water (maybe a 13) with high sodium and chlorine. What do you think of a series of filters like this: (1st) a 100micron Spindown filter, (2nd) a Gradient Filter in Big Blue, (3rd) a Carbon filter in another Big Blue, and lastly (4th) an Electronic Water Descaler? We wanted to add a critic acid filter (like may or may not be used by NuvoH2O, Hansing HSFP, and Life Ionizer Citric Acid Cleaning Cartridge), but we do not know if the form-factor of their filters match up with a standard 10" or 20" Big Blue. BUT if one of them did fit, where would you insert a citric acid filter in our four stage system?
None of these filters will reduce the sodium. I suggest a water softener like this waterestore.com/products/hum-deluxe-water-softener-30-000-grain Automatic Back washing carbon filter like this waterestore.com/products/hum-auto-back-washable-carbon-filter-1-0 and a reverse osmosis drinking water system like this waterestore.com/products/hum-water-saver-reverse-osmosis-system-75-gallons-per-day
I have a GE GXWH01C (set of 2) in a house I just bought. I know the filters need replacing but am not sure about a couple things. 1) Is one set enough for my 4 bedroom 4 bath house? 2) Do I install the same filter in both housings, or are you supposed to put a pre-filter in one, and smaller micron filter in the second? Thank you for your response.
Does these filters need enough pressure to let the water flow? Or maybe gravitational force is enough to let the water flow? I'm planning to install this on my rainwater harvesting system.
Very informative. What size micron would you recommend for a post filter to tank carbon whole house filters to prevent carbon dust from making it into the plumbing.
Hello Gary, we recently ran into issues with our old well. It’s always been a sandy well and the centrifugal sand filter could keep up. We’ve had a lot of earth quake activity and two really dry years and are now pumping a lot of fine sediment into the storage tank. I installed two 10in 30 micron filters in parallel on to the fill line but I’m having to clean them every 2-3 days. Would a backwashable sediment filter be a good choice to replace the filters?
Good questions! Filter goes after the pressure tank. This video of mine may help ua-cam.com/video/01Gwc8b0mHQ/v-deo.html Transparent really doesn't help much. If you maintain your o rings with plumbers silicone grease leaks are minimized.
I have high iron levels. I do have an old carbon filter and softener system. Then I have a big blue and UV light. I still get rust or iron stuff in my toilets. Which filter do you recommend for the big blue
Hi Gary, love the videos. They have been a massive help in enabling me to service our private water supply in the UK. I recently replaced the sediment filters and have a 20 micron and a 5 micron pleated cartridge filter (10" BB), however, I am finding that the water is still cloudy and and not crystal clear (it's slightly yellow). Is that a cartridge problem or could it be something else - TIA.
Hi Mr. Gary, Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I've learnt so much about water filtration from just looking at your videos. Appreciated information Sir 👍 I'm not from North America but I'm trying to make a diy water filtration for my aquarium and its aquatic inhabitants. Now i can't afford a RO system so for now I'm settling on using a 3 stage filtration system. I have 2 carbon block rated at nominal 5 microns ( 2.5x10 CTO ) 32-250-10 Matrikx and I'm not sure what sediment filter i should use if it's 1 micron or 5 micron. I understand that string filter isnt good option and the depth filter i believe only comes in the 4x10 big blue. Ive only the 2.5 x 10 blue canister. Which of the microns ratings would work best before the 2 carbon blocks? 2. Can the CTO 32-250-10 Matrikx carbon block be used to remove Alum in water and how much water can it safely remove before needing to change out? Thank you in advance. Hopefully you can correctly advise or give guidance as best solution. Happy Holidays..🎅🌲🎅🌲
I suggest this 1 micron filter waterestore.ca/products/valutrex-1-micron-10-sediment-cartridge-part-1227865-v?_pos=1130&_sid=83c510f3e&_ss=r Carbon block does not remove alum.
That was good to know. I’m glad I clicked on your site. Just so that I understand, the lower the micron number is. So the less particles that will pass through it? So 1 micron is better than 40 microns? 👍👍👍
How much pressure will these take? I want to put one before my pressure regulator which keeps getting clogged with the sediment from the community well. The water pressure there is is 105 psi. The climate is freezing at night in the winter down to 17 degrees. I need to install outside.
Great video Gary! Thanks for the information. What pressure difference would you recommend changing filters? I'm building a system with 20" big blue and would like to figure out when I'll need to change filters.
Pressure is irrelevant. Filters have approximate gallons number that they can pass before they clog (approximate because it depends on how dirty is the water).
@@AlM-sn3yr A water flow rate or pressure reduction may be the only practical way for a homeowner to determine when a whole-house sediment filter is getting clogged. I use the pressure / water flow in my shower as an indicator. Similarly, when watering plants outdoors, if the outside water hose(s) pressure gradually drops to 1/2 of its pressure with a fresh sediment filter, I know its time to change the filter. The # gallons rating on a filter is almost irrelevant for some users because the input sediment density is not known or accounted for - if your input water is visually crystal clear, your filters will last a long time, conversely if your well is pumping really muddy water, the best filters will quickly clog. Rural homes on well water in regions of karst formations often experience well water that is obviously muddy brown (after long, hard rains) and then 2 weeks later, the same well produces almost clear water. Clear filter housings help those homeowners can "see" the quality of their well water.
We have a 25 year old well and are starting to get quite a bit of iron grit coming out of our faucets and I am having to clear out the pipe running to the laundry washer because the grit is inhibiting the filling of the machine and we are getting error messages on the machine. While we are replacing our 25 year old pump I would like to solve this problem along with dramatically decreasing the orange iron staining we get in showers, tubs and toilets. I was think I needed to get both a spindown for the grit but then have the water go through another filter after. Trying to decide what micron level filter would take care of the finer iron particles causing the staining. Would I need a 1 or a 5 micron filter? Is it also possible that I could take care of all of this without the spindown and just get one gradient filter, like a 50/5 or a 25/1?
Before spending any money I would get your water tested for iron. A basic sediment filter will do very little in terms of iron removal. See this video for more info ua-cam.com/video/gtuA9dQlrzk/v-deo.html
I was planning on using a Rusco Spin down filter in-line with a Big Blue 10 or 20". Do you think a spin down filter would help to remove larger sediment or is it a waste of money? I'm on a well with sediment.
We have a two bathroom house, 3 kids, 2 adults, and currently have a slimline filter (the 2.5" diameter). We find that we have to change it once every couple of months because it gets so loaded with sediment that it's dark brown, muddy, and imploding (we know, because our water pressure drops off drastically). The filter housing finally cracked, so we need to replace it. I was thinking of getting the Big Blue, but our well pump is only 10 gpm, and I read that the Slimline is for 10 gpm, whereas the Big Blue is 15 gpm. Is there any point to getting the Big Blue? Will it catch more sediment and reduce the frequency we have to change the filters?
Great questions! Yes, a Big Blue is what you should be using. It will catch far more sediment and you will need to change the filter far less often. Don't worry about the flow rate.
Trying to build a water purifier for a project. I bought a few 1 micron filters and was wondering if you would know how strong of a water pump (i.e. what size motor) I would need to suck the water through?
Micron rating is irrelevant. Filters and pumps are rated in gallons per minute (GPM). Look what GPM it says on the filter, and buy a pump with same (or higher) capacity.
I seem to have a narrower longer blue base. Are all options either 2.5 inch diameter or 4.5inch diameter and 10" or 20 " length? I measure my outside dimensions and it's about 4"wide and just 20inches long.
Yes, those are the length and diameter options. Likely you need this filter waterestore.ca/products/valuetrex-filters-20-vx05-20-5micron-sediment-part-1227868-v
@@water_estore I have a water softener and have installed two filters, one (sediment filter) before the water softener and one after (charcoal filter). Unfortunately, the one after the softener has removed the soft water. 🤦🏼♂️ Is there a filter I can use that will clean the water but keep the soft water?
Good video Gary - thank you. Similar to another posted question regarding 4.5" versus 2.5" filter: I have a small place for 1 person and seems the smaller unit would function fine. With pretty low sediment to start, is there any downside to installing the larger big blue? Remembering high school geometry it seems like 3x the surface area, expect 3x the filter life or does manufacturer estimate?
The 2.5x10" filters don't last very long. If you can get the 4.5"x20" filters for a good price at a local store or online then definitely go with the big ones, they will last about 7 times longer and you will have way less restriction of water flow.
@@pilsplease7561 damn you are dumb. They are 7 times bigger, that is quit a bit bigger. You can easily get them for less than 7 times the price so clearly they are more cost effective.
I want the highest water flow I can legally have... I still nightmares of low flow shower heads... I am on municipal water, but the sediment in the water from the city is so bad it literally ruined the water bib for the washer. I just bought this house and cannot make head nor tails of the system. I have two hotwater heaters a 40 gal and a 20 gal at two different locations. This is a 2,000 sqft home nothing exotic. After watching a couple of your videos, "I think I want" a water softener in front with an autobackwash system. Then I believe I want the 20" big blue 20/5 micron, followed by a 1 micron as my second big blue... Two big questions, 1. am I forced to use salt softeners? 2. How bad is the over kill with my design? I work retail, not a rich guy... I just need to stop buying bottled water for everything...
I would suggest, first this filter waterestore.ca/products/pentair-filter-20-big-blue-sediment-dgd-5005-155358-43 in this housing waterestore.ca/products/waterite-excelpure-20-big-blue-filter-housing-kit-hl201lbur-kit and then this softener waterestore.ca/products/hum-deluxe-water-softener-30-000-grain Biggest bang for your buck!
Great question! Whenever a UA-cam channel is renamed all of the questions remain but not the answers in the comments section. In September of this year, our channel name was changed from Water Store Midland (our retail store) to Gary the Water Guy so all of my replies that were posted prior to that date disappeared.
Some of the answers to the questions would be most helpful. I am attempting to figure out the system to my 1 bath house I just moved into. I am going to up grade to perhaps 3 bathrooms in the future. I have 1/2 inch plumbing. My water comes right out of the spring (uncovered currently), and there is only one cartage under the house, way away from the pump and spring, however when I opened it was empty. No filter inside. I know this will wreck havoc with the plumbing not having a filter... so I am needing to figure all of this out. I just replaced the bath/show with pecks and it is having some leaks, on the peck end...thank you Gary!
@@e.s.8684 what you need really depends on your water chemistry. If your water is hard, or has iron, that might need to be addressed. Have you ever had your water tested? I would suggest a sediment filter, carbon filter and UV light system so that you make sure your water is bacteria free like this one j8nyrh4uuoprezzf-6595447.shopifypreview.com/products/uv-dynamics-10-gpm-minirack-solenoid-part-mr320-tp2s-220?_pos=3&_sid=06fc8e997&_ss=r other than that it would depend on a water test results.
hello sir, where i live the water is very contaminated as a result my inline sediment filter gets choked up EACH MONTH, i have also applied pp spun sediment filter but it does not work, PLEASE TELL ME CAN I CONNECT TWO OF THESE PP SPUN FILTER IN SERIES AND ELIMINATE THE INLINE SEDIMENT FILTER
Great question! It depends, if you are on well water and you have considerable sediment in your water it would go before the water softener. If you are using it as a prefilter before a UV light it would go after the softener.
if you are filtering dirt, you need a sediment filter like the ones described in the video, if you are filtering chemicals like chlorine you would need a carbon filter.
@@water_estore Thankyou for they Reply Sir! Just Want to Know Is it Safe to Install a filter near to Output of a pump? is there ant affect on pressure? and kindly suggest me the the size of filter housing for this purpose.
@@omer7222 yes, you can install a filter after the pump. Yes, there is an effect on pressure but it is minimal. Usually a 10" Big Blue size works best. There are more recommendations on size in the video.
Thank you, for your response, but the system you reference doesn't have any sediment filters. So, what sediment filter(s) should I use if I want to take lake water and make it potable? I understand the need for the sterilizer, but I want to know what sediment filter(s) to use, so I'm not having to replace sediment filter cartridges frequently, but I still want to filter the water sufficiently. And, obviously, there is going to be a difference between the sediment filters used on tap water versus lake water. Thanks.
I live in a 125 year old house with galvanized piping. We've had trouble with our fill valve inside our toilet getting clogged with I don't know what. Whatever it is, it settles on the bottom of the tank. It looks like sand and/or rust particles. I'm worried that the drinking water may be harmful to myself and my four kids. Should I install a faucet mounted filter in my kitchen and bathroom faucets? And which ones work the best? Thank you.
If you keep the galvanize piping, then it would be best to get a whole house water softener. That would soften the water, and it would be less likely to clog.
Are you in a hurry? Do you have an appointment? Gotta pee? Yea, I'm asking why you are talking so fast? S L O W D O W N!!! I'm not going anywhere and I would be able to understand what you are saying.
@@water_estore For me I only had to listen to the filter micron info twice starting at 1:37. You say that the 50 micron will filter out the bigger particles and it makes it sound like the smaller size micron rating will not but I figured out what you meant. Maybe say it filters 'only' 50 microns or larger, and 5 filters 5m or larger but nothing smaller because most people watching have no knowledge of this. Video was a great help, thank you.
Good explanation. started with a big blue 10", over the last 20 years have learned that a 20" big blue 5 micon spun gradiant seems to last about 9 to `12 months before I get a pressure drop and need to change it. This filter and housing combo keeps my faucets from clogging up with gunk. I use an RO system to further reduce TDS for my drinking water. I buy the 20" filters by the half dozen to keep shipping costs down. I tried 1 micron filters but the just clogged quickly.
Yes, buying filters in bulk is the way to go. We offer free shipping and discoutns for bulk filter purchases on our website www.waterestore.ca in Canada or www.waterestore.com in the USA
jesus christ, thank you so much for the video, it was quick to the point. I've asked a lot of customer reps this question and about gpm and none of them seemed to know anything about the products they were selling
Gald it helped. Please share video with friends and family.
@@water_estore if you're on relatively clean city water would you say that you'd need a sediment trap? If so what micron would be recommended? Currently under the impression that smaller would be better for the small stuff the city doesn't catch?
Great channel, Gary, great information here.
Do you have a video of how to change an inline filter for a furnace humidifier ? 😳
Have a MISTER herrmidifier ( NOT a typo. a humidifier attached to the furnace) - it uses an Encapsulated Inline Carbon Replacement Filter ( specifically an Inline encapsulated combination carbon + hexametaphosphate filter with 1/4" female threads. It reduces mineral buildup. )
My humidifier uses model number AP-6 PCLF ( made by allpure.)
I need to change this filter. ( I purchased a new one )
( my home is very dry - avg 30-38% humidity) my HVAC CO have been doing the yearly maintenance but are booked for almost a month.
Do you have an instructional video on the proper way for me to replace this inline filter myself ? There are no instructions . Is this something I could run into problem with if DIY ?
Sorry this is so long, have a great day. Gracias from New York.
Sorry, no I do not.
@@water_estore I appreciate the reply- have a great day, Gary
Thank you, Gary. We have hard water (maybe a 13) with high sodium and chlorine. What do you think of a series of filters like this: (1st) a 100micron Spindown filter, (2nd) a Gradient Filter in Big Blue, (3rd) a Carbon filter in another Big Blue, and lastly (4th) an Electronic Water Descaler? We wanted to add a critic acid filter (like may or may not be used by NuvoH2O, Hansing HSFP, and Life Ionizer Citric Acid Cleaning Cartridge), but we do not know if the form-factor of their filters match up with a standard 10" or 20" Big Blue. BUT if one of them did fit, where would you insert a citric acid filter in our four stage system?
None of these filters will reduce the sodium. I suggest a water softener like this waterestore.com/products/hum-deluxe-water-softener-30-000-grain Automatic Back washing carbon filter like this waterestore.com/products/hum-auto-back-washable-carbon-filter-1-0 and a reverse osmosis drinking water system like this waterestore.com/products/hum-water-saver-reverse-osmosis-system-75-gallons-per-day
Oh yes I really appreciate the straight talk
Thank you. Please share video with friends and family!
I have a GE GXWH01C (set of 2) in a house I just bought. I know the filters need replacing but am not sure about a couple things. 1) Is one set enough for my 4 bedroom 4 bath house? 2) Do I install the same filter in both housings, or are you supposed to put a pre-filter in one, and smaller micron filter in the second? Thank you for your response.
Does these filters need enough pressure to let the water flow? Or maybe gravitational force is enough to let the water flow? I'm planning to install this on my rainwater harvesting system.
Very informative. What size micron would you recommend for a post filter to tank carbon whole house filters to prevent carbon dust from making it into the plumbing.
I would go with a dual gradient one like this 25 to 1 filter. waterestore.com/products/pentek-filter-20-big-blue-sediment-dgd-2501-25-1-mic-155360-43
Hello Gary, we recently ran into issues with our old well. It’s always been a sandy well and the centrifugal sand filter could keep up. We’ve had a lot of earth quake activity and two really dry years and are now pumping a lot of fine sediment into the storage tank. I installed two 10in 30 micron filters in parallel on to the fill line but I’m having to clean them every 2-3 days. Would a backwashable sediment filter be a good choice to replace the filters?
Yes, it would, one like this waterestore.ca/products/hum-auto-backwashable-nexand-filter-1-cubic-foot
Well water....do you place before the welltrol pressure tank? Is transparent housing better? Most people complain of leaks....thank you
Good questions! Filter goes after the pressure tank. This video of mine may help ua-cam.com/video/01Gwc8b0mHQ/v-deo.html Transparent really doesn't help much. If you maintain your o rings with plumbers silicone grease leaks are minimized.
I have high iron levels. I do have an old carbon filter and softener system. Then I have a big blue and UV light. I still get rust or iron stuff in my toilets. Which filter do you recommend for the big blue
This one waterestore.ca/products/pentek-filter-20-big-blue-iron-reduction-rffe20-bb-radial-155263-43
Hi Gary, love the videos. They have been a massive help in enabling me to service our private water supply in the UK. I recently replaced the sediment filters and have a 20 micron and a 5 micron pleated cartridge filter (10" BB), however, I am finding that the water is still cloudy and and not crystal clear (it's slightly yellow). Is that a cartridge problem or could it be something else - TIA.
It's something else like iron or tannins in the water. Have it tested to find out for sure.
Hi Mr. Gary,
Thank you so much for sharing your expertise. I've learnt so much about water filtration from just looking at your videos. Appreciated information Sir 👍
I'm not from North America but I'm trying to make a diy water filtration for my aquarium and its aquatic inhabitants. Now i can't afford a RO system so for now I'm settling on using a 3 stage filtration system.
I have 2 carbon block rated at nominal 5 microns ( 2.5x10 CTO ) 32-250-10 Matrikx and I'm not sure what sediment filter i should use if it's 1 micron or 5 micron. I understand that string filter isnt good option and the depth filter i believe only comes in the 4x10 big blue. Ive only the 2.5 x 10 blue canister. Which of the microns ratings would work best before the 2 carbon blocks?
2. Can the CTO 32-250-10 Matrikx carbon block be used to remove Alum in water and how much water can it safely remove before needing to change out?
Thank you in advance.
Hopefully you can correctly advise or give guidance as best solution.
Happy Holidays..🎅🌲🎅🌲
I suggest this 1 micron filter waterestore.ca/products/valutrex-1-micron-10-sediment-cartridge-part-1227865-v?_pos=1130&_sid=83c510f3e&_ss=r Carbon block does not remove alum.
That was good to know. I’m glad I clicked on your site. Just so that I understand, the lower the micron number is. So the less particles that will pass through it? So 1 micron is better than 40 microns? 👍👍👍
Better in terms of filtering out more finer particles but more restrictive so it will clog sooner.
How much pressure will these take? I want to put one before my pressure regulator which keeps getting clogged with the sediment from the community well. The water pressure there is is 105 psi. The climate is freezing at night in the winter down to 17 degrees. I need to install outside.
Great video Gary! Thanks for the information. What pressure difference would you recommend changing filters? I'm building a system with 20" big blue and would like to figure out when I'll need to change filters.
Pressure is irrelevant. Filters have approximate gallons number that they can pass before they clog (approximate because it depends on how dirty is the water).
@@AlM-sn3yr A water flow rate or pressure reduction may be the only practical way for a homeowner to determine when a whole-house sediment filter is getting clogged. I use the pressure / water flow in my shower as an indicator. Similarly, when watering plants outdoors, if the outside water hose(s) pressure gradually drops to 1/2 of its pressure with a fresh sediment filter, I know its time to change the filter. The # gallons rating on a filter is almost irrelevant for some users because the input sediment density is not known or accounted for - if your input water is visually crystal clear, your filters will last a long time, conversely if your well is pumping really muddy water, the best filters will quickly clog. Rural homes on well water in regions of karst formations often experience well water that is obviously muddy brown (after long, hard rains) and then 2 weeks later, the same well produces almost clear water. Clear filter housings help those homeowners can "see" the quality of their well water.
We have a 25 year old well and are starting to get quite a bit of iron grit coming out of our faucets and I am having to clear out the pipe running to the laundry washer because the grit is inhibiting the filling of the machine and we are getting error messages on the machine. While we are replacing our 25 year old pump I would like to solve this problem along with dramatically decreasing the orange iron staining we get in showers, tubs and toilets. I was think I needed to get both a spindown for the grit but then have the water go through another filter after. Trying to decide what micron level filter would take care of the finer iron particles causing the staining. Would I need a 1 or a 5 micron filter? Is it also possible that I could take care of all of this without the spindown and just get one gradient filter, like a 50/5 or a 25/1?
Before spending any money I would get your water tested for iron. A basic sediment filter will do very little in terms of iron removal. See this video for more info
ua-cam.com/video/gtuA9dQlrzk/v-deo.html
I was planning on using a Rusco Spin down filter in-line with a Big Blue 10 or 20". Do you think a spin down filter would help to remove larger sediment or is it a waste of money? I'm on a well with sediment.
We have a two bathroom house, 3 kids, 2 adults, and currently have a slimline filter (the 2.5" diameter). We find that we have to change it once every couple of months because it gets so loaded with sediment that it's dark brown, muddy, and imploding (we know, because our water pressure drops off drastically). The filter housing finally cracked, so we need to replace it. I was thinking of getting the Big Blue, but our well pump is only 10 gpm, and I read that the Slimline is for 10 gpm, whereas the Big Blue is 15 gpm. Is there any point to getting the Big Blue? Will it catch more sediment and reduce the frequency we have to change the filters?
Great questions! Yes, a Big Blue is what you should be using. It will catch far more sediment and you will need to change the filter far less often. Don't worry about the flow rate.
Wish y’all had a store in the US.
We do, it’s right here waterestore.com/
Trying to build a water purifier for a project. I bought a few 1 micron filters and was wondering if you would know how strong of a water pump (i.e. what size motor) I would need to suck the water through?
Thank you! Subscribed!
Micron rating is irrelevant. Filters and pumps are rated in gallons per minute (GPM). Look what GPM it says on the filter, and buy a pump with same (or higher) capacity.
I seem to have a narrower longer blue base. Are all options either 2.5 inch diameter or 4.5inch diameter and 10" or 20 " length? I measure my outside dimensions and it's about 4"wide and just 20inches long.
Yes, those are the length and diameter options. Likely you need this filter waterestore.ca/products/valuetrex-filters-20-vx05-20-5micron-sediment-part-1227868-v
blue housing measures 20 inch long, so 20 inch filter cartridge?
Yes, this video should help. ua-cam.com/video/En59EvMy_FE/v-deo.html
Hey Gary. Can you put a filter on the inlet going into your house from the softener without affecting soft water?
Sorry, I don't understand the question.
@@water_estore I have a water softener and have installed two filters, one (sediment filter) before the water softener and one after (charcoal filter). Unfortunately, the one after the softener has removed the soft water. 🤦🏼♂️ Is there a filter I can use that will clean the water but keep the soft water?
WHAT IS THE FLOW RATE AND MICRON RATING OF THOSE FILTERS?
I Need to shock my well can I clean the filter and reuse them??
Good video Gary - thank you. Similar to another posted question regarding 4.5" versus 2.5" filter: I have a small place for 1 person and seems the smaller unit would function fine. With pretty low sediment to start, is there any downside to installing the larger big blue? Remembering high school geometry it seems like 3x the surface area, expect 3x the filter life or does manufacturer estimate?
No, no downside other than you should be replacing the filter at least once per year so it may become more expensive in the long run.
The 2.5x10" filters don't last very long. If you can get the 4.5"x20" filters for a good price at a local store or online then definitely go with the big ones, they will last about 7 times longer and you will have way less restriction of water flow.
@@Kyle-ut4jg They last quite a long time, the bigger ones are not cost effective for barely longer lifespan.
@@pilsplease7561 damn you are dumb. They are 7 times bigger, that is quit a bit bigger. You can easily get them for less than 7 times the price so clearly they are more cost effective.
will a 1 micron filter help with hard water and sediment?
I want the highest water flow I can legally have... I still nightmares of low flow shower heads... I am on municipal water, but the sediment in the water from the city is so bad it literally ruined the water bib for the washer. I just bought this house and cannot make head nor tails of the system. I have two hotwater heaters a 40 gal and a 20 gal at two different locations. This is a 2,000 sqft home nothing exotic. After watching a couple of your videos, "I think I want" a water softener in front with an autobackwash system. Then I believe I want the 20" big blue 20/5 micron, followed by a 1 micron as my second big blue... Two big questions, 1. am I forced to use salt softeners? 2. How bad is the over kill with my design? I work retail, not a rich guy... I just need to stop buying bottled water for everything...
I would suggest, first this filter waterestore.ca/products/pentair-filter-20-big-blue-sediment-dgd-5005-155358-43 in this housing waterestore.ca/products/waterite-excelpure-20-big-blue-filter-housing-kit-hl201lbur-kit and then this softener waterestore.ca/products/hum-deluxe-water-softener-30-000-grain Biggest bang for your buck!
Very helpful. Thank you!
Hey, I currently am using the DGD-5005. What is the best way to know when to replace it? Based on pressure dropping or time or...? Thanks
The rule is 12 months or when your pressure drops, whichever one comes first.
Just curious why all the answers have been removed?
Great question! Whenever a UA-cam channel is renamed all of the questions remain but not the answers in the comments section. In September of this year, our channel name was changed from Water Store Midland (our retail store) to Gary the Water Guy so all of my replies that were posted prior to that date disappeared.
Some of the answers to the questions would be most helpful. I am attempting to figure out the system to my 1 bath house I just moved into. I am going to up grade to perhaps 3 bathrooms in the future. I have 1/2 inch plumbing. My water comes right out of the spring (uncovered currently), and there is only one cartage under the house, way away from the pump and spring, however when I opened it was empty. No filter inside. I know this will wreck havoc with the plumbing not having a filter... so I am needing to figure all of this out. I just replaced the bath/show with pecks and it is having some leaks, on the peck end...thank you Gary!
@@e.s.8684 what you need really depends on your water chemistry. If your water is hard, or has iron, that might need to be addressed. Have you ever had your water tested? I would suggest a sediment filter, carbon filter and UV light system so that you make sure your water is bacteria free like this one j8nyrh4uuoprezzf-6595447.shopifypreview.com/products/uv-dynamics-10-gpm-minirack-solenoid-part-mr320-tp2s-220?_pos=3&_sid=06fc8e997&_ss=r other than that it would depend on a water test results.
hello sir, where i live the water is very contaminated as a result my inline sediment filter gets choked up EACH MONTH, i have also applied pp spun sediment filter but it does not work, PLEASE TELL ME CAN I CONNECT TWO OF THESE PP SPUN FILTER IN SERIES AND ELIMINATE THE INLINE SEDIMENT FILTER
Thank you , i will try this product
Are these filters usually installed before or after a water softner?
Great question! It depends, if you are on well water and you have considerable sediment in your water it would go before the water softener. If you are using it as a prefilter before a UV light it would go after the softener.
really good explication. thanks a lot and continue your good work.
Sir i want to use a Filter exactly next to output of a Pump which is high pressure. what type of filter shoud i use?
if you are filtering dirt, you need a sediment filter like the ones described in the video, if you are filtering chemicals like chlorine you would need a carbon filter.
@@water_estore Thankyou for they Reply Sir! Just Want to Know Is it Safe to Install a filter near to Output of a pump? is there ant affect on pressure? and kindly suggest me the the size of filter housing for this purpose.
@@omer7222 yes, you can install a filter after the pump. Yes, there is an effect on pressure but it is minimal. Usually a 10" Big Blue size works best. There are more recommendations on size in the video.
thank you.
Thank you, for this video!
What sediment filter(s) should I use if I want to take lake water and make it potable?
Thanks, again!
Thank you, for your response, but the system you reference doesn't have any sediment filters. So, what sediment filter(s) should I use if I want to take lake water and make it potable? I understand the need for the sterilizer, but I want to know what sediment filter(s) to use, so I'm not having to replace sediment filter cartridges frequently, but I still want to filter the water sufficiently. And, obviously, there is going to be a difference between the sediment filters used on tap water versus lake water.
Thanks.
Okay, thanks. That's exactly what I needed to know!
I live in a 125 year old house with galvanized piping. We've had trouble with our fill valve inside our toilet getting clogged with I don't know what. Whatever it is, it settles on the bottom of the tank. It looks like sand and/or rust particles. I'm worried that the drinking water may be harmful to myself and my four kids. Should I install a faucet mounted filter in my kitchen and bathroom faucets? And which ones work the best? Thank you.
REPLACE THE PIPES WITH PEX OR COPPER
If you keep the galvanize piping, then it would be best to get a whole house water softener. That would soften the water, and it would be less likely to clog.
Do you install
Yes, where are you located?
@@water_estore we are in Mississauga Ontario
What is the red button for ontop we just got this today.
It releases the pressure inside the filter housing. See this video ua-cam.com/video/frcxW4W0MI0/v-deo.html
no audio
Yeah for some reason this video will not play audio on my computer. works just fine on my phone. great video!
my left ear disliked this...
Yes, but was it helpful?
Are you in a hurry? Do you have an appointment? Gotta pee?
Yea, I'm asking why you are talking so fast?
S L O W D O W N!!! I'm not going anywhere and I would be able to understand what you are saying.
@@water_estore For me I only had to listen to the filter micron info twice starting at 1:37. You say that the 50 micron will filter out the bigger particles and it makes it sound like the smaller size micron rating will not but I figured out what you meant. Maybe say it filters 'only' 50 microns or larger, and 5 filters 5m or larger but nothing smaller because most people watching have no knowledge of this. Video was a great help, thank you.