Ford Explorer Rear Knuckle / Wheel Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 12 тра 2021
- On this 2006 Ford Explorer, the brake shield had rusted, causing the parking brake hardware retainer to fall inside the rotor, which resulted in a squeaking noise. Rather than disassemble the spindle to replace just the shield and the wheel bearing, I saved a significant amount of time by replacing the entire knuckle / spindle assembly, which included a new shield, wheel bearing, bushings, hub and brake hardware.
- Авто та транспорт
As always, thank you all for your feedback. It seems I learn something new from your comments every time I post a video like this.
With this one, I learned it’s a good idea to not fully tighten the knuckle bushing bolts until the suspension is loaded by first lowering the vehicle onto the ground with the wheels on. The reason being is the bushings will wear prematurely as they are constantly in a bind if tightened in the unloaded (raised vehicle) position.
It’s cool to know that there are other experts in the field watching my videos and sharing their thoughts and suggestions. Just one of the many reasons I love the community we’ve built here. Thanks again!
Now that is a great video! No BS, no goofy music, just what you need to know! You have earned a new sub from me! This is the route I took with my kids 09 explorer as well. Granted, the hub assembly is now $300-400 but still worth it versus the $50 for a bearing and having to deal with the hassle.
How did you know which bearing was messing up. When I'm on the interstate going bout 70mph when I'm making a right curve turn everything seems OK, but when I turned to left it seems like my rear is wanting to sway to the right...
Thank you Daniel for the Video on this vehicle. I have one of these that is making a roaring noise on right rear spindle. I have ordered a knuckle and in process of installing. Your video made the decision to go with a knuckle replacement an easy one. Good descriptions as you worked as it was very helpful in preparing me with what I needed to do the job. I appreciate your efforts, keep up the great work, kudos to you my friend!!
thanks ive been wondering about re and re I had bought the same parts and asked a shop to do it they told me $500. i have no hoist so axle stand and a jack ....with your video I got to it ps no garage just the outside elements SNOW and below freezing temp job is going very well thanks again Ont Canada
We need to get you some sponsors Danny boy. Look at what junkyard digs is doing. Mans making it. M
Thank you for a clear and concise overview of this project!
Thanks for cheating around the only part I needed help with by removing the entire parking brake lever arm instead of releasing the spring like everyone else needs to see...
I live in KCMO and I know about the salt on the roads way to well this was the best video I've ever seen you literally relieved so much of my stress I'm ordering the parts tonight and I'm going to do both sides of my Mountaineer
One of the best repair videos I’ve seen. Excellent work and thank you!
Great work I just bought the whole hub and knuckle assembly I will try the install this weekend see how it’s goes I have a 2005 exploder just slightly different
How'd it go?
Fluid film is the answer to the rust.
Great video you have helped me every time I need it thanks Dan
Always enjoy the videos 👍🇺🇸
Very good video!! Quality all the way...Thank you
hi...can i ask where you puchased the knuckle assembly for 150? advance over 350.00 without the brake shoes.
AM parts
Thanks dan
I would've put a washer on those retaining pins and called it done. It would of lasted till it hit the crusher! Iowa native.
That is definitely the most cost effective and fastest option! I thought about that, but the shield was rusted pretty bad and was weakened significantly. Had the rust been not a severe a washer would have probably worked just fine.
Yeah, a washer would have been more practical. And with those assemblies you have no idea what kind of Chinesium bearing was put in. So plan to do the job all over again in another 10kmi. And with a new knuckle an alignment will be required afterwards. Another option is just buy the backing plates, cut them and wrap it around. New doesn't mean better.
I’d love to see an update on the excursion
Do you have a link for the spindle assembly?
I have changed those Explorer bearings numerous times and they suck! The idea of the complete knuckle is great but I have a concern. I have learned the hard way and I now only install Timkin bearings because the cheaper ones don't last. What was the knuckle fitted with? Probably not a Timkin or Motorcraft. Good luck to you and the owner.
It’s definitely a valid concern regarding the wheel bearing as I too have had hit and miss experiences with lower cost aftermarket wheel bearings. My guess is this knuckle was not fitted with a Motorcraft or Timken bearing.
When repairing vehicles, I give my customers different part quality options to fit their budgets. Higher quality parts come with better warranties, but of course are more expensive. Cheaper parts can save a lot of money, but they also have shorter warranties.
In the case of this Explorer, the customer was looking for a lower cost option to fit his budget, so we went with the “Ultra Power” brand from RockAuto, which has a 12 month warranty. For approximately double the cost, Moog offers the same part with a 36 month warranty.
For me, it all depends on how difficult the part is to replace and how much time it will take. A good example is an engine. I will not install used salvage or junkyard engines because of the amount of time required should the engine fail. On the other hand, this knuckle takes about an hour or two, so my time loss is considerably less should I need to replace it under warranty for the customer.
Now in certain scenarios where I’ve experienced multiple and consistent failures, I will insist on using OE quality parts and refuse to use aftermarket. For example, Dorman water/fuel separator drain valves on a 7.3 Powerstroke I will not use because I consistently have issues with them, and the Motorcraft part is only $10 - $20 more.
Anyway, that comment turned out to be much longer than I anticipated lol. As always thanks for your feedback, I enjoy reading peoples’ comments!
It comes with the EBrake assembled? That's great, I got the Moog knuckles, and I spent so much time fighting that upper return spring, there's no room to work behind the hub.
Thank you, I need to replace at least one of these. Wish I had that lift though
Great vid! "Would you happen to have a part number or where I can find the assembly? Thanks ahead!
My 2015 ford explorer, there's a squeaking sound...is it okey just to replace the bushing? Or where can I get the assembly like the one you put up?thank you!!!
Very good video however my 2000 1004 Ford Explorer doesn't have those back 3 bolts to remove it
I would love to see what's going on with the six wheel F-150 haven't seen anything on it on about 3 months do you still have it?
Daniel where did you get your parts from? I believe I got the same problem on a 2005 explorer, blessings and thanks
I don't know where you found that spindle for $150 because everywhere else I looked it was $350 to 500
What torke number did you put on the central nut?
Where did you get this knuckle part from
Where did you buy that part? I need this for my 2013 Explorer.
By chance, did you apply an Anti Seizure compound or grease to shaft when reapplied new knuckle/ bearing assembly? I wasn't sure if i seen that, i did see you spray PB blaster on the shaft, Is that all that is needed? Thanks
I have the same noise can I remove the parking brake completely
14:26 I though those bushings are supposed to be tightened when on the ground so they aren’t put into a bind when set down on the ground.
I looked into this and you are correct. Thanks for pointing it out! Next time I have this vehicle in for maintenance I’m going to back the bushing bolts off with the suspension loaded so those bushings aren’t in a consistent bind.
@@DanielJaegerFilms - You can just put a jack under the hub and apply load to the bolts. It doesn't need to have the wheel on.
Would that assembly trick work on a 14 explorer ?
By chance do you still have the part number?
Any long term feedback on the loaded knuckle? Who was the manufacturer snd part number please?
B4 installing new parts an antiseize crease is the best option for me 👍👍 thanx
HOw do you know which side rear wheel bearing need replaced? When I'm on the interstate going bout 70mph when I'm making a right curve turn everything seems OK, but when I turned to left it seems like my rear is wanting to sway to the right...
i cant seem to find any with the bushings built into the unit. what am i missing? what brand and part number did you buy?
08:05 - Guess what? The nut's held by the threads 😂😂
Where did u get the whole unit from for tbat 150 bucks
Where did you order those? Loaded spindles? I been looking for.my.07
If you don't have a press you'd be better off buying a quality bearing, bring the knuckle to a shop and have them press it in and out. Usually not too expensive. Job is too involved to be messing around with cheap parts and will just hurt your wallet more in the long run.
Looked like the upper bushing was about shot anyway
Ty sir outfuckingstanding well done
Some folks may argue that “weight should be applied to the axle before tightening the upper and lower bushing”. What’s you’re opinion on this?
In most cases it really doesn't matter too much but yes I prefer to get the vehicle at right height. Top tip. If the axles need to hang in the air for a long time you can back the bushing bolts off so the bushings don't get twisted in the down position.
Another viewer pointed this out as well, turns out it is a valid point. Next time I have this vehicle for maintenance, I’m going to back the bushing bolts off with the suspension loaded and see how much of a bind they are in.
Yes, they need to be torqued with vehicle at normal ride height or bushings will tear prematurely.
I love you man!¡!¡!¡!
Do you know the torque specs?
Is there a reason my three bolts aren’t coming off? I have an 06 ford explorer I’m doing the drivers rear side!
HOw do you know which side rear wheel bearing need replaced? When I'm on the interstate going bout 70mph when I'm making a right curve turn everything seems OK, but when I turned to left it seems like my rear is wanting to sway to the right...
Was that a dorman or moog part?
This one was an “Ultra Power” brand part from RockAuto
I just did a skp assembly on the passenger side of mine. Other than the parking brake grenading and needing replacement its been nice and quiet.
What size socket at 7:41?
Are you looking to sell your excursion
Do you still work for EHI?
Yes, it’s been a wild ride there lately but I’m still there!
Is there a reason why you don't say where this part was acquired.
Rock auto. They sell entire knuckle assemblies
RockAuto.com is where I got the knuckle.
Torque n*??
Torque? N*
What with my 1st video Ever watched on your video
Wtf would they say your in your house most. Live with brandons ppl
Can you continue to drive the vehicle with a bad hub bearing? To repair it costs $600 and I don't have the cash right now. Is it possible to drive the vehicle for a couple weeks, until I have funds?
Likely irrelevant now, but for future reference it's a toss up, it could hold or could blow out the next time you try to drive, I personally wouldn't disk it given the damage to other things in the area(i.e) if the front of the hub slips out and your tie rods aren't the best, or if your going any kind of speed the tire could slip off and rip the hub/ tie rods out killing the axle spline and possibly you when your tire goes flying
It might last a few weeks but it could fail at any time. I would not get on a hi speed freeway with worn hub
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I'm a sinner JESUS please forgive me for all my sins I know you shed your Blood for me on the cross at Calvary. Thank you JESUS for my salvation and for shedding they Blood for me. I love you JESUS.
Romans 10:5/10 ct...❤️k
JESUSisLord!Amen...
Amen..
If you'd like to call someone who cares
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You cheated lol
1st
Who cares but you are you still in elementary school?
What torke number did you put on the central nut?
160 ft -lbs is what i looked up