Fleischmann developed the "Turn Control" (Art. 6915), a more comfortable solution to control the turntable. It came ca. 2000 on the market after they released their "Twin Center", a DCC/FMZ-enabled central unit derived from the "IntelliBox I" by Uhlenbrock. It is still available, but not cheap. It does not need a digital environment, it can replace the control switch you used in your video. Aside from the track power it needs an independent 12-14V AC to power the Turn Control and the turntable. In a digital environment the Turn Control functions as a DCC-turntable decoder and the wiring between the turntable and its control does not change. Instead you have to provide the DCC-track signal. But they suggested as well a DIY-solution to make a control panel for the turntable decades before.
You can use the lever under the bridge, opposite the engine house, to disengage the cog-wheel and position the bridge properly. So no need to remove the tracks to align it properly.. :)
Hello, I'm Bas and I'm from the Netherlands. That number, 2175, what does it mean? Because my turntable - looks like yours only older - has exactly the same number underneath
Esta tornamesa Fleisch no me ha salido nada buena; le tuve que cambiar el motor porque se calentaba (la fuente de voltaje es 15 voltios) ( esta tornamesa es de segunda mano), unos componentes que traía se calentaban, y para colmos tiende a atascarse en el giro y hay que usar la leva debajo del puente constantemente para destrabarla. En resumen ha sido una pesadilla y cambiar el conjunto solenoide-motor-mecanismo, es carísimo. Es el que se ve en el minuto 7.50.
Fleischmann developed the "Turn Control" (Art. 6915), a more comfortable solution to control the turntable. It came ca. 2000 on the market after they released their "Twin Center", a DCC/FMZ-enabled central unit derived from the "IntelliBox I" by Uhlenbrock. It is still available, but not cheap. It does not need a digital environment, it can replace the control switch you used in your video. Aside from the track power it needs an independent 12-14V AC to power the Turn Control and the turntable. In a digital environment the Turn Control functions as a DCC-turntable decoder and the wiring between the turntable and its control does not change. Instead you have to provide the DCC-track signal.
But they suggested as well a DIY-solution to make a control panel for the turntable decades before.
Thanks for the information,
I have recently retro fitted the TT with a maintenance free coreless motor now for a far superior movement .
That looks really well built.
I know like my vw ....
Thank you for video 👍🇺🇦
Thanks for the video, a very nice piece of engineering and very informative
many thanks Malcolm ..there are no vids on this turntable for removing the bridge so i thought i would do one.....jim
Fantastic bit of kit,,,, great informative presentation.
Thanks Alan. .
You can use the lever under the bridge, opposite the engine house, to disengage the cog-wheel and position the bridge properly. So no need to remove the tracks to align it properly.. :)
Very good information😀
Many thanks....Jim
That is some piece of kit Jim ...
Thanks dave shoukd get 20 exits on this when finished. .
Hi, perhaps you can help me? My turntable turns only in one direction, what can be the problem?
You need a fleischmann turntable command 6915 which works independently and converts the tt to digital use.
Phenomenal
Very interesting, nice one!
Thanks Steve
The best.
Will you adding lights to the control hut?
Not sure yet. ..a small function decoder could easily be fitted to the bridge hut via the bridge power feed from the under side of the bridge...
Hello,
I'm Bas and I'm from the Netherlands.
That number, 2175, what does it mean? Because my turntable - looks like yours only older - has exactly the same number underneath
Hi Bas ..Part number
Thank you
Esta tornamesa Fleisch no me ha salido nada buena; le tuve que cambiar el motor porque se calentaba (la fuente de voltaje es 15 voltios) ( esta tornamesa es de segunda mano), unos componentes que traía se calentaban, y para colmos tiende a atascarse en el giro y hay que usar la leva debajo del puente constantemente para destrabarla. En resumen ha sido una pesadilla y cambiar el conjunto solenoide-motor-mecanismo, es carísimo. Es el que se ve en el minuto 7.50.
I installed a coreless motor to solve all of these problems.