At last! A great, how to video, on shourds and ratlines. That Airfix tool always mystified me, so thank you, Harry, for explaining its operation so well! Also, great, it can be used on other kits too. I also know you do your own tools for this, but I stay on the opposite side of this mud ball from you up here in Scotland, the postage would be crazy. If I am ever in your neck of the woods though.......
I only charge a standard $10 USD worldwide for postage of my tools. Means I take a hit in some places and a gain in others but it all averages out. The Heller/Airfix ratline tool is convenient but long term, as I have found, your ratlines can droop on the model. So much better to actually tie and tension your shrouds to the model ship, then run the horizontal ratlines.
Just catching this video having followed many earlier ones on ships from Harry; this video is just PERFECT for showing how to make those rat-lines..! 😀 Seeing some of the earlier vids made me want to try a sailing ship (first time in years...many years!!), and I've just taken delivery of the new Airfix 'Vintage Classics' issue of the Golden Hind (supposedly 1/72 scale, but the figures look a little bigger than any 1/72 pilot I've ever painted!), and I now have a brilliant reference for how to use the jig and supplied cotton reels! Last time I make a sailing ship of any scale must be 40+ years ago, and then they were a pre-moulded thin plastic - maybe vac-form? This system will be SO much better! (If I can do it right!! 😉 ) Thanks so much for this Harry.... first class instructions. 😊👍
I am glad the video was helpful for you Steve. Once you get into the rigging there are 6 more videos in the playlist on each type of rope and how to tie them to the model. Plus a whole section on sails and attaching blocks to yards. You may not do as much as I did on my Bounty, but the videos are there if you need them.
Kind of surprised that so many people tend to cut or leave out the board going across the deadeyes on the shroud. I can't remember the name but the item is very important in maintaining the structure of the shroud and keeping the deadeyes in position.
it’s called a sheer pole and was a more modern invention. However it was probably used from 18th Century onwards. It is a very thin metal bar and in the scales we make our models is not much thicker than the ratlines themselves. The thicker wooden beams used in place of sheer poles are rarely seen on ships before 1700. At least that is how I understand it.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thank you, I remember seeing them on the Bounty Replica at one point before its disaster and they are also on the Brig Niagara. However, these are, or where replica's and it is possible they were added as modern adaptations.
Thank you so so much for this vídeo Harry! When the time comes i maybe if you don t mind i will film my own process like yours and explain it just to keep a Record on my channel and to Create muscle memory and of corse... Its cool! I AM gratefull!
Thanks Derek.. Ratlines are a constant height of one step, about 300-400mm no matter the size of the ship. So in the Bounty’s scale of 1:110 that works out to be about 4mm apart. The Heller ratline tool I demonstrated had 2mm spacing, which works for their 1:200 scale ships. For the 1:150 scale ships a spacing of 3mm would like about right. It does not matter if the ship is as small as the Bounty or as big as the Victory, ratline height is always a human sized one step.
It is getting harder to find but can be bought out of Italy direct: www.astromodelstore.com/ or Australia from: www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-model-paints-thinners-paints-lifecolor-acrylic
You work out the sizes by measuring the diameter of the main mast. From memory it is 6mm on this kit. So your main forward stays are always 1/6 the mast = 1mm, then your shrouds (vertical lines on the ratlines) are half the stays, so 0.5mm, finally your horizontal ratlines half the shrouds, so 0.25mm thread. I can give you a chart of all the thread sizes for each line. But honestly as long as you get the main forward mast stays thick, the shrouds (vertical lines on the ratlines) medium, then the rest thin, it will look ok. If the line is fixed and not moving it is tarred black. If its running rigging that moves, including ratlines, it is jute or light brown colour.
Looks ship-shape to me mate. Nice looking rigging etc. Harry. Have you ever made an Artesannia ship from scratch where you build the hull etc plank by plank? Took me 100s of hours when I built the Endeavour but boy was it worth it. I've given it to my younger nephew as a present (I ran out of storage room). Another awesome vid mate.
I made wooden ships as a teenager from plans and stock balsa. Have been eyeing off the Billings wooden Bounty which was on sale here. But need a lot more free time to tackle all that work. However it’s on my list and I’m sure I’d love building one.
@@HarryHoudiniModels I had a knee replacement that got infected and to fix that, they take out your artificial knee and leave a "spacer" which is a non-functional joint which virtually meant I was bed bound until the infection cleared. It took 8 months, so I decided to build the Endeavour (the Bounty was my second choice). I'm glad I did, but wouldn't do it again. Too much of a time commitment on 1 subject, and if you lose your mojo or get stuck on a stage, it can mean you don't get anything done. At least with plastic models, they can go in the shelf queen shelf and you can start another one you have been itching to do. My advice: have another plastic model going at the same time, and alternate between projects. It would mean also that your UA-cam channel doesn't get bogged down for a lengthy spell.
Good advice. In fact this Bounty series is the first time I have stuck to one build consecutively on my channel. Lost me some subs, because I usually alternate between ships, armour and aircraft to keep the great unwashed interested. But I needed a mojo booster after feeling very down when I moved to Brissy.
Patent being organised and sales will start online in the next video... but you get a free one to test and promote on your channel my friend. As I hope to show in the next video, it solves a lot of the problems with the Heller tool, plus is much faster and easier to use.
Hi harry im doing hms victory not large type,one from china 50X40X20cm i know what yr thinking why from china? Wel im in philippines and bloody hard to get decent ones like there and and elsewhere.if you could help and you did do one could you send a link.many thanks your brilliant👍👍👍
Hi David... The last Victory I built was over 40 years ago. So not on UA-cam. However all the same square rigging that I did on the Bounty applies for the Victory. The major differences are a whole lot more cannons, of course, and the colours. Below the wale line it is sheet in copper, above that are the bands of black and cream, or salmon if you believe what they did to her recently. My friend Alex has a nice build of the Revell 1:225 Victory, which would be about your size. ua-cam.com/video/sZ1UWmKYKSM/v-deo.html
If you mean the Harp I designed, then you need to make your own. I will try to add a plan of it to the page for my Bounty build on my website. Otherwise the Heller/Airfix loom is included in their older sailing ship kits, and now in the new Classic edition Airfix reboxes. Thirdly there are other types of Ratline building tools you can get from retailers who specialise in wood ship kits.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thank you I am building a Monogram USS Constitution which has the plastic shroud lines but would like to do my own. I think the plastic loom would be nice but can't find one online.
At last! A great, how to video, on shourds and ratlines. That Airfix tool always mystified me, so thank you, Harry, for explaining its operation so well! Also, great, it can be used on other kits too. I also know you do your own tools for this, but I stay on the opposite side of this mud ball from you up here in Scotland, the postage would be crazy. If I am ever in your neck of the woods though.......
I only charge a standard $10 USD worldwide for postage of my tools. Means I take a hit in some places and a gain in others but it all averages out. The Heller/Airfix ratline tool is convenient but long term, as I have found, your ratlines can droop on the model. So much better to actually tie and tension your shrouds to the model ship, then run the horizontal ratlines.
I can't thank you enough for this video. Excellennt demo of tying shrouds and ratlines using the tool.
Glad it was helpful! Did you watch the later video where I use my own home made tool?
@@HarryHoudiniModels I can't find it :(. I looked at your channel and omg you've been busy making videos :)
ua-cam.com/video/yh0o7a6hGUY/v-deo.html
Thank you very much Mr. Houdini for this wonderful lecture of using that jig so those horrible plastic things can be ignored.
You are very welcome.. later on in another video I show an even better method using a tool I invented.
Just catching this video having followed many earlier ones on ships from Harry; this video is just PERFECT for showing how to make those rat-lines..! 😀
Seeing some of the earlier vids made me want to try a sailing ship (first time in years...many years!!), and I've just taken delivery of the new Airfix 'Vintage Classics' issue of the Golden Hind (supposedly 1/72 scale, but the figures look a little bigger than any 1/72 pilot I've ever painted!), and I now have a brilliant reference for how to use the jig and supplied cotton reels!
Last time I make a sailing ship of any scale must be 40+ years ago, and then they were a pre-moulded thin plastic - maybe vac-form? This system will be SO much better! (If I can do it right!! 😉 )
Thanks so much for this Harry.... first class instructions. 😊👍
I am glad the video was helpful for you Steve. Once you get into the rigging there are 6 more videos in the playlist on each type of rope and how to tie them to the model. Plus a whole section on sails and attaching blocks to yards. You may not do as much as I did on my Bounty, but the videos are there if you need them.
Nice work on making the ratlines. This model is going to look awesome when finished.
Thanks Jim. More ratline information in the next video about how to attach them.
Nice to see a visual & practical explanation how to use that tool - very helpful, Harry :)
...and there is more to come with my invention
Kind of surprised that so many people tend to cut or leave out the board going across the deadeyes on the shroud. I can't remember the name but the item is very important in maintaining the structure of the shroud and keeping the deadeyes in position.
it’s called a sheer pole and was a more modern invention. However it was probably used from 18th Century onwards. It is a very thin metal bar and in the scales we make our models is not much thicker than the ratlines themselves. The thicker wooden beams used in place of sheer poles are rarely seen on ships before 1700. At least that is how I understand it.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thank you, I remember seeing them on the Bounty Replica at one point before its disaster and they are also on the Brig Niagara. However, these are, or where replica's and it is possible they were added as modern adaptations.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Also, when you next video on the St Louis? Love it when your doing the sailing ships. Keep up the good work Harry.
I will get back to the St Louis next month. Working on my Schnellboot this October.
Wow! Harry outstanding build my friend.
Thanks Clayton
Thanks for the video, sure makes it look easer.
Well if you thought that was easy, wait until I show the ratline tool I invented in the next video
Outstanding explanation ! Thank you sir.
Thanks mate, good to know I managed to get that across.
A very Mind boggling job made simple, cheers buddy. 🤓👍😉
Yes it can you all tied up in knots
thanks harry.makes a lot of sense .cheers tom
Terrific... now can you explain it to me, I’m still baffled?
Praying Bask doesn't give this one the Varyag treatment. Looking awesome Harry.
After two ships being knocked off bookcases, this one gets locked down inside an old jewellery cabinet at night. Taking no chances!
Thank you so so much for this vídeo Harry! When the time comes i maybe if you don t mind i will film my own process like yours and explain it just to keep a Record on my channel and to Create muscle memory and of corse... Its cool! I AM gratefull!
Oh yes please do.. maybe you can see a better way to use that Heller ratline tool. I have a lot issues with it, that’s why I made my own.
BT-2 , cool ! I've been looking forward to that one ! Tanks for the heads up.
Wrong thread but yes... I have started the Hobby Boss BT-2 and it’s been a joy to build so far
@@HarryHoudiniModels 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi Harry
Great video and very helpful. Just one question, why do you string your ratline every two notches rather than use every notch on the frame?
Thanks Derek.. Ratlines are a constant height of one step, about 300-400mm no matter the size of the ship. So in the Bounty’s scale of 1:110 that works out to be about 4mm apart. The Heller ratline tool I demonstrated had 2mm spacing, which works for their 1:200 scale ships. For the 1:150 scale ships a spacing of 3mm would like about right. It does not matter if the ship is as small as the Bounty or as big as the Victory, ratline height is always a human sized one step.
Cheers for that, Harry.
harry, are any of the model shops down there on the web?? cant find anyone carrying life color products here in the states
It is getting harder to find but can be bought out of Italy direct:
www.astromodelstore.com/
or Australia from:
www.bnamodelworld.com/hobby-model-paints-thinners-paints-lifecolor-acrylic
thanks harry!!
What size rope do you recommend? I just started this one and am looking to do my own shrouds. Any advice is much appriciated! Love these videos btw.
You work out the sizes by measuring the diameter of the main mast. From memory it is 6mm on this kit. So your main forward stays are always 1/6 the mast = 1mm, then your shrouds (vertical lines on the ratlines) are half the stays, so 0.5mm, finally your horizontal ratlines half the shrouds, so 0.25mm thread. I can give you a chart of all the thread sizes for each line. But honestly as long as you get the main forward mast stays thick, the shrouds (vertical lines on the ratlines) medium, then the rest thin, it will look ok. If the line is fixed and not moving it is tarred black. If its running rigging that moves, including ratlines, it is jute or light brown colour.
very helpful HH.. thanks for that!
My pleasure Mal... happy you got something from my video.
I’m counting every time your video is riveting. Does that make me a rivet counter?
As long as it’s done silently and your lips don’t move, we are ok.
Looks ship-shape to me mate. Nice looking rigging etc. Harry. Have you ever made an Artesannia ship from scratch where you build the hull etc plank by plank? Took me 100s of hours when I built the Endeavour but boy was it worth it. I've given it to my younger nephew as a present (I ran out of storage room). Another awesome vid mate.
I made wooden ships as a teenager from plans and stock balsa. Have been eyeing off the Billings wooden Bounty which was on sale here. But need a lot more free time to tackle all that work. However it’s on my list and I’m sure I’d love building one.
@@HarryHoudiniModels I had a knee replacement that got infected and to fix that, they take out your artificial knee and leave a "spacer" which is a non-functional joint which virtually meant I was bed bound until the infection cleared. It took 8 months, so I decided to build the Endeavour (the Bounty was my second choice). I'm glad I did, but wouldn't do it again. Too much of a time commitment on 1 subject, and if you lose your mojo or get stuck on a stage, it can mean you don't get anything done. At least with plastic models, they can go in the shelf queen shelf and you can start another one you have been itching to do. My advice: have another plastic model going at the same time, and alternate between projects. It would mean also that your UA-cam channel doesn't get bogged down for a lengthy spell.
Good advice. In fact this Bounty series is the first time I have stuck to one build consecutively on my channel. Lost me some subs, because I usually alternate between ships, armour and aircraft to keep the great unwashed interested. But I needed a mojo booster after feeling very down when I moved to Brissy.
Wow , good on you mate . Well done ! I'll stick to tanks .
..and that will be my next build.. finishing the BT-2 which will be a doddle after all the hours I put into the Bounty
BTW!!! that final tool!!! (don t miss interpret this but)... DO ME... One! And sell it!😂😂😂😂
Patent being organised and sales will start online in the next video... but you get a free one to test and promote on your channel my friend. As I hope to show in the next video, it solves a lot of the problems with the Heller tool, plus is much faster and easier to use.
Looking amazing Harry. You may want to think about duct taping your cat to the wall at bed time to keep it out of trouble. Just saying.
Mat she would eat the Duck!
Great work Harry, was video rigged lol or shrouded in secrecy.
All tied up in red tape (knots) at the moment!
Hi harry im doing hms victory not large type,one from china 50X40X20cm i know what yr thinking why from china? Wel im in philippines and bloody hard to get decent ones like there and and elsewhere.if you could help and you did do one could you send a link.many thanks your brilliant👍👍👍
Hi David... The last Victory I built was over 40 years ago. So not on UA-cam. However all the same square rigging that I did on the Bounty applies for the Victory. The major differences are a whole lot more cannons, of course, and the colours. Below the wale line it is sheet in copper, above that are the bands of black and cream, or salmon if you believe what they did to her recently. My friend Alex has a nice build of the Revell 1:225 Victory, which would be about your size. ua-cam.com/video/sZ1UWmKYKSM/v-deo.html
Any idea where i can get the shroud ratline tool.
If you mean the Harp I designed, then you need to make your own. I will try to add a plan of it to the page for my Bounty build on my website. Otherwise the Heller/Airfix loom is included in their older sailing ship kits, and now in the new Classic edition Airfix reboxes. Thirdly there are other types of Ratline building tools you can get from retailers who specialise in wood ship kits.
@@HarryHoudiniModels Thank you I am building a Monogram USS Constitution which has the plastic shroud lines but would like to do my own. I think the plastic loom would be nice but can't find one online.
Have you watched Part 8? I show how I made and used my custom harp tool to do the ratlines after rigging the shrouds