@@pdxcnc bcoz you don't hide the settings. I am a hobbyist with a mill instead of router, still your settings got me to the ball park. I was actually using lower step downs and rpms coz I have no coolant system and I did not know that air and wd40 was enough for 12000 rpm range.
Great Video. And nice nice finish. I very rarely ever got to use a 3/8 end mill at the sign shop in Portland when we were milling aluminum. Loved the tip about using the sealing washers. Gonna have to use that idea when I'm running a router again after this economic disaster subsides.
In the same way that you mounted your air blast nozzle, I mount a 2.50" Locline vacuum hose and nozzle. It doesn't get all of the chips but it does pick up a lot. Get the tip of the vac nozzle in really close. And, if you want to be really efficient, I use the shop vacuum's outlet to connect to my air blast for clearing. And that proves that you can suck and blow at the same time.
Nice job explaining tooling and feeds/speeds. I should have watched this video first and I might not have melted my endmill into my aluminum stock. Keep it up. How do you like your shopsabre?
@@pdxcnc I've automated a Sieg SX4 but still waiting on some single flute bits so I've been doing much slower milling, awesome to watch the higher speed cutting
I made two barrels full of chips today so my first thought is man you need to build a enclosure on that thing just the bottom half will do, and I like to keep the film on as much as possible to maintain that nice Mic6 finish, I’m sort of assuming it’s cast aluminum but anyway thanks for the cool video
I think by using a canvas barrier attached to sides of the lower part of the table and supported above the table plane about a meter around the table would be a cost effective way to keep the shop floor clean and provide a clean bucket of recyclable aluminum.
Great video. I have a very similar machine here in my shop and I've been interested in doing some aluminum. I'm a little nervous about using a vacuum cleaner with WD40. The kerosene in WD40 might be explosive. I've been trying to come up with away to contain spray coolant. I'm thinking building a box around the work that the gantry can just clear. Then attaching some sheet vinyl or maybe some 1/8" lexan that can slide around on top while the machine moves(with a hole big enough for the Z axis to move through. I'd only be able to use a small part of the machine's movement, something like 24"x24" or even 16"x16"of travel. Most of the aluminum stuff I'd like to cut is fairly small. I currently have a 6" milling vise setup on the end of the table cutting small HDPE parts and it's working really well. Thanks Chris
@@pdxcnc Mostly plate stuff, 1mm-3mm sheets probably. Most likely 1mm cause it's cheaper, unless I can pull off some kind of 3d carves and decorations in it. Topper/inlays for coasters and such basically. I've tried it before but even cutting out the stuff, I could get it to cut cold with jenny bits, but the damn thing was chattery no matter what I changed and the finish far less than desirable. I haven't really tackled it again since. Doesn't help that it was unknown grade either. but sold as paneling from a kitchen place originally so probably the softest stuff going I would imagine.
I’ve routed a lot of aluminum with these feeds and speeds and that 3/8” bit since watching this for the first time. You should really consider adding an oil mister. It keeps the wear way down. I’m still on my first bit and I use it several times a week from anything between 1/4” sheets and 3/4” plate. It really does leave a mirror finish
Totally 2nd that, I've been machining 6061 plate for about 2 years now using a Fog buster + Klean Strip Denatured alcohol (Home Depot). This combination provides good airblast, great lubricantion, its cheap and in addition flashes off quickly so it doesnt goo up your surface even if you drench it.
Everyone considering alcohol should consider two significant safety issues. First, get the SDS (aka MSDS) for any "denatured" alcohol used. Methanol is frequently used and is highly toxic, especially when inhaled. Normal intended use for solvents sold at home depot for example does not assume 100% evaporation in a a closed shop. Kleen Strip for example mentioned in this thread has up to 8% methanol for example according to the SDS. The other is obviously fire safety. Any shop router isn't likely to be rated for vapors so you run a fire hazard. Motor brushes *will* be a spark source. A spill or over-feed could result in a fire. Stay safe.
Hi, I was curious how you held the work. I see from an earlier comment you are using the vacuum from the table bed as well as screws. I assume the blue tape is to provide better hold down be sealing the edges. How well does that work?
Question: How is it that your movement is constantly moving at one pace. My EnRoute tech made adjustments/configurations which made my multicam accelerate At straight path & decelerate & turns and short paths. Before the movements were continuous @ One pace! These slow and fast setup is killing my bits especially the 1/16th 🤦🏻♂️
What RPM and SFM do you use for 1/8 end mill? I was successful in using a 1/4 end mill at 12000 rpm with an ipt of .002. I was using a 4 flute although many say it cannot be used on Aluminum. I use only compressed air. For 1/8 i guess ipt is .0015 but at what speed for a .01-05 DOC.
Not really, sure, less feedrate than the tool we used in this video, I'd guess. I'd go check out our blog post in this video description and adapt it for the 1/8 tool you are considering.
Hey, I am using UGS with fusion. Is there a way to prevent endmill scratching the surface of stock from zero position to work lead in position? I was trying to save and use maximum stock. but after you set zero the machine moves to the lead in position in the same z level until it reaches work lead in. It does not scratch the work but the stock.
Hello, I'm currently trying to machine a 10mm thick sheet of 6082 T6 aluminum on a braxes 6090 CNC, but almost everytime i run it the aluminum gets welded into the tip of my endmill, i tried reducing the depth of cut and the feed, and that helped, but when i do the contour for my piece it melts at some point. The settings i was using were: cutting speed 125m/min ; cutting feedrate 100mm/min and depth of cut 0.1mm on a 3mm diameter carbide endmill with 4 flutes (maybe i should use 2 flutes for better chip evacuation?) Sorry about the metric units but i don't know the imperial system Can someone give me some advice?
THOSE EDGES ARE AWESOME! Thanks for sharing cutter selection & feeds and speeds.
Sure thing
This is how every CNC video should be, great information and very clear. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
man you sound so cool when you say that ' let's go make some chips!" love it -
Thanks, wait is this a John Saunders shadow account? 😆
Awessssome video. One of my favorite new channels for sure. Keep up the GREAT WORK GUYS 👏🏼
Awww - thanks 👍
Yours is the best CNC Video on UA-cam! Thanks.
Why, thank you.
@@pdxcnc bcoz you don't hide the settings. I am a hobbyist with a mill instead of router, still your settings got me to the ball park. I was actually using lower step downs and rpms coz I have no coolant system and I did not know that air and wd40 was enough for 12000 rpm range.
Great Video. And nice nice finish. I very rarely ever got to use a 3/8 end mill at the sign shop in Portland when we were milling aluminum. Loved the tip about using the sealing washers. Gonna have to use that idea when I'm running a router again after this economic disaster subsides.
In the same way that you mounted your air blast nozzle, I mount a 2.50" Locline vacuum hose and nozzle. It doesn't get all of the chips but it does pick up a lot. Get the tip of the vac nozzle in really close. And, if you want to be really efficient, I use the shop vacuum's outlet to connect to my air blast for clearing. And that proves that you can suck and blow at the same time.
Thanks for the excellent video and for providing helpful info.
Appreciate it, Lawrence
Thanks for sharing! They look beautiful.
Nice job explaining tooling and feeds/speeds. I should have watched this video first and I might not have melted my endmill into my aluminum stock. Keep it up. How do you like your shopsabre?
Hi Dan, I appreciate it. Machine has been great.
Great video, really satisfying and interesting to watch
Glad you enjoyed it! Got a bunch more of 'em 😏
@@pdxcnc I've automated a Sieg SX4 but still waiting on some single flute bits so I've been doing much slower milling, awesome to watch the higher speed cutting
Great vid! Interested to know whether a dust collection and dust shoe would succeed in clearing chips of this size?
Thanks. People do use dust boots with metal routing. We prefer to use air/alcohol which is tough with a boot/brush
I made two barrels full of chips today so my first thought is man you need to build a enclosure on that thing just the bottom half will do, and I like to keep the film on as much as possible to maintain that nice Mic6 finish, I’m sort of assuming it’s cast aluminum but anyway thanks for the cool video
Excellent video thanks. Great to see how it's done in the real world. :o)
Thanks John.
I think by using a canvas barrier attached to sides of the lower part of the table and supported above the table plane about a meter around the table would be a cost effective way to keep the shop floor clean and provide a clean bucket of recyclable aluminum.
Great video. I have a very similar machine here in my shop and I've been interested in doing some aluminum.
I'm a little nervous about using a vacuum cleaner with WD40. The kerosene in WD40 might be explosive.
I've been trying to come up with away to contain spray coolant. I'm thinking building a box around the work that the gantry can just clear. Then attaching some sheet vinyl or maybe some 1/8" lexan that can slide around on top while the machine moves(with a hole big enough for the Z axis to move through. I'd only be able to use a small part of the machine's movement, something like 24"x24" or even 16"x16"of travel. Most of the aluminum stuff I'd like to cut is fairly small. I currently have a 6" milling vise setup on the end of the table cutting small HDPE parts and it's working really well.
Thanks
Chris
Nice vids, i've watched a cpl now, Any chance of doing similar for copper though?
Sounds fun, what kind of parts are you wanting to cut from copper?
@@pdxcnc Mostly plate stuff, 1mm-3mm sheets probably. Most likely 1mm cause it's cheaper, unless I can pull off some kind of 3d carves and decorations in it.
Topper/inlays for coasters and such basically.
I've tried it before but even cutting out the stuff, I could get it to cut cold with jenny bits, but the damn thing was chattery no matter what I changed and the finish far less than desirable. I haven't really tackled it again since. Doesn't help that it was unknown grade either. but sold as paneling from a kitchen place originally so probably the softest stuff going I would imagine.
what kind of 1/4" drill did you use? just a standard jobber length from a drill bit set? Im about to try drilling on our CNC for the first time.
yep, HSS jobber length drills work great. HSS you never want to go over 300 SFM. Shorter is better, and I like a 135º point but 118 will work too.
@@pdxcncthanks I drilled some holes today in some 1/4” aluminum with the cnc and your settings worked great
@Notjay95 glad to hear it
how are you holding the sheet down?
Primarily through a hold down flow through vacuum in the router table bed. You'll see we also screws as well.
Can you share a little about the mechanical aspects of your milling router. Spindle, steppers, size etc. Thanks for share this great content.
The spindle is an HSD 5hp. I'm not sure what the servos are, the machine is a ShopSabre PRO 408.
I’ve routed a lot of aluminum with these feeds and speeds and that 3/8” bit since watching this for the first time. You should really consider adding an oil mister. It keeps the wear way down. I’m still on my first bit and I use it several times a week from anything between 1/4” sheets and 3/4” plate. It really does leave a mirror finish
Yep. We have since then, this was a bit ago the video was made
Question. Why did you choose air cooling over a mist system? Because our shop has been interested in running some aluminum prjects
Cost, we don’t do this often. Mist is definitely the way to go, AFAIK
I have had really good success running alcohol as a coolant.
That's what we've heard. Will try that next time we run some aluminum
@@pdxcnc Getting ready to run a big job on our new Shop Sabre. I will try and post some pics and video on Instagram.
Totally 2nd that, I've been machining 6061 plate for about 2 years now using a Fog buster + Klean Strip Denatured alcohol (Home Depot). This combination provides good airblast, great lubricantion, its cheap and in addition flashes off quickly so it doesnt goo up your surface even if you drench it.
@@hobbleygobbly Been curious about trying denatured. Super cool. Will give it a try as well.
Everyone considering alcohol should consider two significant safety issues. First, get the SDS (aka MSDS) for any "denatured" alcohol used. Methanol is frequently used and is highly toxic, especially when inhaled. Normal intended use for solvents sold at home depot for example does not assume 100% evaporation in a a closed shop. Kleen Strip for example mentioned in this thread has up to 8% methanol for example according to the SDS. The other is obviously fire safety. Any shop router isn't likely to be rated for vapors so you run a fire hazard. Motor brushes *will* be a spark source. A spill or over-feed could result in a fire. Stay safe.
What’s the reason for the painters tape?
Maintain maximum vacuum hold-down suction.
Hi, I was curious how you held the work. I see from an earlier comment you are using the vacuum from the table bed as well as screws. I assume the blue tape is to provide better hold down be sealing the edges. How well does that work?
+RFM Designs ideally you don’t need tape and we try to use it in a last resort but it does almost always help.
Question: How is it that your movement is constantly moving at one pace. My EnRoute tech made adjustments/configurations which made my multicam accelerate At straight path & decelerate & turns and short paths. Before the movements were continuous @
One pace! These slow and fast setup is killing my bits especially the 1/16th 🤦🏻♂️
What is the tool speed and feed speed.?
hi how can I get in touch with you I would like for you to cut a design out of aluminum for me
Hey. You can do that on our website pdxcnc.com/hire
Hi can you explain how you handled the sheet cupping, and whether there was any impact on the end product parts? Otherwise nice content.
We have a vacuum hold down table. That and screws and neoprene washers.
I would like to see fusion 360 cut aluminium, that would be a laugh
The software as the tool?
What RPM and SFM do you use for 1/8 end mill? I was successful in using a 1/4 end mill at 12000 rpm with an ipt of .002. I was using a 4 flute although many say it cannot be used on Aluminum. I use only compressed air. For 1/8 i guess ipt is .0015 but at what speed for a .01-05 DOC.
Not really, sure, less feedrate than the tool we used in this video, I'd guess. I'd go check out our blog post in this video description and adapt it for the 1/8 tool you are considering.
Set up a high pressure intermittent spray of ethanol next to the tool, keeps it cool and lubes
Yeah, would if we did this often.
Hey, I am using UGS with fusion. Is there a way to prevent endmill scratching the surface of stock from zero position to work lead in position? I was trying to save and use maximum stock. but after you set zero the machine moves to the lead in position in the same z level until it reaches work lead in. It does not scratch the work but the stock.
I’d guess that has to do with how the post-processor is written and how the controller works. I’m not really sure though, never used UGS.
Can you tell me the price of this cnc machine ?
You can take a look at the manufacturer: shopsabre.com
Hello,
I'm currently trying to machine a 10mm thick sheet of 6082 T6 aluminum on a braxes 6090 CNC, but almost everytime i run it the aluminum gets welded into the tip of my endmill, i tried reducing the depth of cut and the feed, and that helped, but when i do the contour for my piece it melts at some point.
The settings i was using were: cutting speed 125m/min ; cutting feedrate 100mm/min and depth of cut 0.1mm on a 3mm diameter carbide endmill with 4 flutes (maybe i should use 2 flutes for better chip evacuation?)
Sorry about the metric units but i don't know the imperial system
Can someone give me some advice?
I wonder if you and make like a little injector on that air line, squeeze or push a button and it feeds wd40 into the line so it does it for you...
There are actually quite a few mist coolant systems.
were did you get those washers?
Linked in the article
Hello
Cannot cut sharp edges?
Sorry?
thanks. it would be great if you could also make some tutorials for FreeCAD or other Open Source software
We don't actually use those and Fusion is free 👍
Where the settings?????
What? Did you click the article link?
What’s the name of this cnc I mean the brand and price pls
i never run without vacuum boot man thats messy lol
yes, it is 🙅♂️
I Purchase your machine
no.
Enclosure.....
On a 4x8 cnc router?
its not a router if a big 4.5 KW spindle is on it bro.
Yes…. Yes it is.
BT tooling on a router? That's not a common router...
It's ISO 30
10000 of a inch, WTF!!! Use metric ffs..
No?
@@pdxcnc Well learn it then...
Have, it's not what we use.
.010 is easy for me lol
Different regions, different languages. I like knowing both systems. The imperial system is weird and messy, but definitely has its benefits too.
inches, damn inches... when will you learn, that metric system is the only system to go?
You're right.