The part where you're talking about reading the other drivers, taking mental notes of how they drive, etc., is great advice. Too many people are focused on making their car "fast" instead of studying the science of driving.
honestly we found best especially at a tight corner 1/4 mile track is you want the car to roll over in the center of the turn to dewedge the car and get it to turn, we even run at bump spring in the LF like a 1/4 inch out of coil bind then it will bind in the corner
Great advice, even tho I know it...it good to hear it to freshen what we as drivers know. Awareness is the biggest part of racing. No matter where you are in experience. Good job, keep them up
I loved your video good advice. I bought a PT cruiser race ready two weeks ago off of marketplace it had an electrical problem I fix it in an hour and raced it that week. Came in 12 out of 14 I don’t like losing it sucked. But your video just gave me a whole list of things I’m going to do to my PT cruiser now. It had stock tires on it you name it was not really race ready except for the roll bar. Thanks for the advice keep up the clean racing good luck and I appreciate you
Get rid of the pt lol i raced one my first time ever on dirt and they are horrible cars. Top heavy and jus not very fast. Ur will stay at the end of the pack as long as you are running a pt lol cavalier, sentra, sunfire, crx,and acura rsx are all good cars w decent stock hp. Cavi and sunfire also both have the 2.2 eco tech so parts are super affordable and easy to come by
i race a dodge neon in upstate Ny. got 3 wins in about 7 starts been racing with some broken parts tho (a cracked cradle and broken steering rack 😂) and was still bringing her home top 5 (not all that competitive) but we got that fixed hoping to be back in VL friday
As far as air pressures on the front, I run 32 psi on the RF and 18 on LF. I don't run tubes or bead locks and haven't had any issues. The car turns great. I do glue all my outer beads though. All personal preference I guess.
Speaking of running into other cars and respect, I've been told I race too clean. It seems week after week the same cars drive "through" me. They show absolutely NO respect. I have not retaliated because I set a goal to finish top 10 in points for the year. My car isn't the fastest, but it finishes races. I currently sit 5th in points, with 2 races to go, in the Outlaw Enduro Series Stock division. Not bad for a 63 year old Rookie. We run at Grandview Speedway in Pa. Unfortunately the track has been sold and will become a salvage yard. It sucks because I am in the middle of building a new car for next year and I'm not sure where I'm going to be racing. I appreciate all of your advice! Keep up the good work Sir!🏁🏁🏁
I don't retaliate either and yes if your running for points you need to finish. Some guys don't understand that. There are alot of good tracks in PA you shouldn't have trouble finding a new home and the respect you earn being clean will help you in the long run. I wrecked a couple weeks back and there where guys from 5 diff pits helping fix the car. Keep up the good work.
@@Raceking46 Thank you Sir! I understand getting that extra help. With the guys I pit next to, we always help each other. It's kinda like if one guy wrecks, we all wreck. We all help each other any way we can.
My Sable is a heavy car ,here's my air pressures. Left front; 24 Right front: 26 Left and Right rears: 28 to 30 pds. Tracks usually 1/4 - 3/8 mile. Best race: started 27 finished 4th.
Hello, Something you have not mentioned and has worked for me is the following you may try. As you know super late models have moving rear axles to diamond the car out of the turn. I run a 2000 Merc. Sable DOHC V6 and all 4 tires have to be the same size in my Enduro rules, NO RACING TIRES. What I have done is mimicked the moving rear axle by moving both rear tires 1/2" out at the front to the right. This makes the rear want to swing out as you come into the turn and also air the rears up to 36 pounds, this also helps the rear to swing out a little bit. Coming into the turn when I feel the rear coming out I hit the gas hard. My car will run the bottom of the turn and NOT want to push out as all FWD cars want to do. I can come in low and stay there all through the turn. I do all my passing in the turns. My last race at Trailways near Gettysburg, Pa 3/8 dirt. I started 27th and finished 4th. $80 for 4th AND $25 for Hard Charger in the race. My sable is a heavy car and I run new tires.. Can you give me a reply please Build it kingdom. Best regards, Wayne Millsboro, Delaware March 23, 2023
Hi, Let me be more accurate. With the right front wheel straight bring the left front wheel toe out at the front 1/2 inch. For the REAR wheels take both out to the right 1/2 inch. This will make the rear of the car want to swing out to the right . This is the same as the rear that moves on a Super Late model. A front wheel drive car will not push towards the guardrail when the rear wants to swing out to the right helping the car to go left. When you feel that hit the gas, she'll go right around the turn. You got it ?
IT'S CALLED REAR STEER AND IT WORKS ON FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CARS. LAY BACK UNTIL LAT 15 LAPS. LET THE FIELD THIN OUT TTHANKS AGAIN WAYNE MILLSBORO, DE. SEPT. 30, 2024
I'm not sure what the gear ratio is on the auto but that determines your tire sizes. All our cars are 5 speeds. My car is currently 3:63 and we run 245/60/15 on RF 235/60/15 Lf for 3/8 dirt track at about 7400 rpm.
Spring rate changes don't transfer more or less weight. They transfer the same amount of weight faster or slower. I think you mean ride height height adjustment.
@@2kbaby924 A change in spring rate doesn't add or take away weight. A change in ride height does. If you run a softer coil at a longer length to achieve the same ride height as a shorter stiffer coil the amount of weight on that corner is still the same. if the car weighs 2600 lbs it still weighs 2600 lbs regardless of the spring rates. Spring rates don't add or subtract weight.
@@jwickert3 obviously changing a spring rate isn’t gonna change the overall weight of a car lol. You were talking about weight transfer anyway not stagnant weight but yes youre right if you have a coil spring that’s rated at 200ibs with a free height of 10 inches and then change it to say a 500 ibs that’s 8 inch free height it should rough keep the same amount of weight on that one tire, but you initially said that spring rates change the weight transfer speed with is not true suspension dampening does.
@@Raceking46 That was always my thought and still is, if I were to move my battery that is. When I ran rear wheel drive cars, I always moved it to the right rear. But I see a lot of FWD guys putting their batteries behind the seat?? Now that I'm running FWD, I keep it over the LF, original location, to keep the weight on the LF tire. I believe that gives me more traction on the LF and helps pull the front end through the turns. I never have a problem with the front end "pushing".
@@rogerkummerer775 Cobalt battery is in rear from factory but yes on a couple of our cars we moved them to LF for weight purposes. On my car I actually added around 70# of lead to LF
I would say no. obviously it will play a role but your right over left will help you turn. elevation change front to back will play a roll in weight distribution like I said a taller RR will transfer weight to the front. Any size change will affect your handling but hard to say how much with out trying it. I've had really small front tires on before and didn't notice a huge difference other then rpm change.
The part where you're talking about reading the other drivers, taking mental notes of how they drive, etc., is great advice. Too many people are focused on making their car "fast" instead of studying the science of driving.
honestly we found best especially at a tight corner 1/4 mile track is you want the car to roll over in the center of the turn to dewedge the car and get it to turn, we even run at bump spring in the LF like a 1/4 inch out of coil bind then it will bind in the corner
Great advice, even tho I know it...it good to hear it to freshen what we as drivers know. Awareness is the biggest part of racing. No matter where you are in experience. Good job, keep them up
I loved your video good advice. I bought a PT cruiser race ready two weeks ago off of marketplace it had an electrical problem I fix it in an hour and raced it that week. Came in 12 out of 14 I don’t like losing it sucked. But your video just gave me a whole list of things I’m going to do to my PT cruiser now. It had stock tires on it you name it was not really race ready except for the roll bar. Thanks for the advice keep up the clean racing good luck and I appreciate you
Get rid of the pt lol i raced one my first time ever on dirt and they are horrible cars. Top heavy and jus not very fast. Ur will stay at the end of the pack as long as you are running a pt lol cavalier, sentra, sunfire, crx,and acura rsx are all good cars w decent stock hp. Cavi and sunfire also both have the 2.2 eco tech so parts are super affordable and easy to come by
If you can get a smaller car it’s gonna help a lot in turns those things are top heavy
i race a dodge neon in upstate Ny. got 3 wins in about 7 starts been racing with some broken parts tho (a cracked cradle and broken steering rack 😂) and was still bringing her home top 5 (not all that competitive) but we got that fixed hoping to be back in VL friday
This is such a great video, thanks Brad!
One thing I didn't touch on was toe and its really important. 1/4" out minimum more for short tracks up to 5/8"
im racing tomorrow and looking to "crab walk" my car down the track with toe. 4/10 mile track. understeer kills me. how much toe you recommend?
I've been running 1/4" to start the race. 1/3 mile high bank track. That seems to work pretty good on my Cav
As far as air pressures on the front, I run 32 psi on the RF and 18 on LF. I don't run tubes or bead locks and haven't had any issues. The car turns great. I do glue all my outer beads though. All personal preference I guess.
Speaking of running into other cars and respect, I've been told I race too clean. It seems week after week the same cars drive "through" me. They show absolutely NO respect. I have not retaliated because I set a goal to finish top 10 in points for the year. My car isn't the fastest, but it finishes races. I currently sit 5th in points, with 2 races to go, in the Outlaw Enduro Series Stock division. Not bad for a 63 year old Rookie. We run at Grandview Speedway in Pa. Unfortunately the track has been sold and will become a salvage yard. It sucks because I am in the middle of building a new car for next year and I'm not sure where I'm going to be racing. I appreciate all of your advice! Keep up the good work Sir!🏁🏁🏁
I don't retaliate either and yes if your running for points you need to finish. Some guys don't understand that. There are alot of good tracks in PA you shouldn't have trouble finding a new home and the respect you earn being clean will help you in the long run. I wrecked a couple weeks back and there where guys from 5 diff pits helping fix the car. Keep up the good work.
@@Raceking46 Thank you Sir! I understand getting that extra help. With the guys I pit next to, we always help each other. It's kinda like if one guy wrecks, we all wreck. We all help each other any way we can.
My Sable is a heavy car ,here's my air pressures. Left front; 24 Right front: 26 Left and Right rears: 28 to 30 pds. Tracks usually 1/4 - 3/8 mile. Best race: started 27 finished 4th.
Hello, Something you have not mentioned and has worked for me is the following you may try. As you know super late models have moving rear axles to diamond the car out of the turn. I run a 2000 Merc. Sable DOHC V6 and all 4 tires have to be the same size in my Enduro rules, NO RACING TIRES. What I have done is mimicked the moving rear axle by moving both rear tires 1/2" out at the front to the right. This makes the rear want to swing out as you come into the turn and also air the rears up to 36 pounds, this also helps the rear to swing out a little bit. Coming into the turn when I feel the rear coming out I hit the gas hard. My car will run the bottom of the turn and NOT want to push out as all FWD cars want to do. I can come in low and stay there all through the turn. I do all my passing in the turns. My last race at Trailways near Gettysburg, Pa 3/8 dirt. I started 27th and finished 4th. $80 for 4th AND $25 for Hard Charger in the race. My sable is a heavy car and I run new tires.. Can you give me a reply please Build it kingdom. Best regards, Wayne Millsboro, Delaware March 23, 2023
1/2” out at the front to the right? Sorry I don’t quite understand. I guess I can’t picture it in my head
Hi, Let me be more accurate. With the right front wheel straight bring the left front wheel toe out at the front 1/2 inch. For the REAR wheels take both out to the right 1/2 inch. This will make the rear of the car want to swing out to the right . This is the same as the rear that moves on a Super Late model. A front wheel drive car will not push towards the guardrail when the rear wants to swing out to the right helping the car to go left. When you feel that hit the gas, she'll go right around the turn. You got it ?
I finished a race with my right rear flat and didn't even know it lol still got 3rd that race i believe
Cobalt sway bar you extend the left sway bar link and keep the RF stock
Great video man .. I feel like I am cheating after watching this.. lol
So do you think the car should be caring the left rear through the corner?
On a straight axle car it’s not uncommon. On a tight track with good bite mine will carry into the corner but settles center off.
IT'S CALLED REAR STEER AND IT WORKS ON FRONT WHEEL DRIVE CARS. LAY BACK UNTIL LAT 15 LAPS. LET THE FIELD THIN OUT TTHANKS AGAIN WAYNE MILLSBORO, DE. SEPT. 30, 2024
I’m completely new to the sport and curious if you would have any tire size suggestion for a 2.2 auto cav on a 3/8 track
I'm not sure what the gear ratio is on the auto but that determines your tire sizes. All our cars are 5 speeds. My car is currently 3:63 and we run 245/60/15 on RF 235/60/15 Lf for 3/8 dirt track at about 7400 rpm.
Auto Cavs you want to run the smallest tires possible because of the gear ratio. I run 185/65's and 185/60's....
This will take some of the push out of a FWD car. Rear will want to come out a little.
Can you give me a rough idea on scale numbers on a colbolt
my car is heavy but I'll give ya my numbers. LF 991 RF 689 LR 446 RR 559
If you hit my up on facebook we can talk more about it.
2004 Chevy Cavalier 1/3 track what tire set up do you recommend size etc.
Depends on transmission ratio and 5spd or automatic. You might want to hit up someone running that car at that track.
Spring rate changes don't transfer more or less weight. They transfer the same amount of weight faster or slower. I think you mean ride height height adjustment.
not true, transfer speed depends on suspension dampening, spring rate DOES change the amount of weight transfer. that’s just facts
@@2kbaby924 A change in spring rate doesn't add or take away weight. A change in ride height does. If you run a softer coil at a longer length to achieve the same ride height as a shorter stiffer coil the amount of weight on that corner is still the same. if the car weighs 2600 lbs it still weighs 2600 lbs regardless of the spring rates. Spring rates don't add or subtract weight.
@@jwickert3 obviously changing a spring rate isn’t gonna change the overall weight of a car lol. You were talking about weight transfer anyway not stagnant weight but yes youre right if you have a coil spring that’s rated at 200ibs with a free height of 10 inches and then change it to say a 500 ibs that’s 8 inch free height it should rough keep the same amount of weight on that one tire, but you initially said that spring rates change the weight transfer speed with is not true suspension dampening does.
So sway bar in the front or no?
we don't run sway bar on dirt
Great vid!
Moving battery to back which side should be good for weight
Right rear just inside wheel well
@@Raceking46 That was always my thought and still is, if I were to move my battery that is. When I ran rear wheel drive cars, I always moved it to the right rear. But I see a lot of FWD guys putting their batteries behind the seat?? Now that I'm running FWD, I keep it over the LF, original location, to keep the weight on the LF tire. I believe that gives me more traction on the LF and helps pull the front end through the turns. I never have a problem with the front end "pushing".
@@rogerkummerer775 Cobalt battery is in rear from factory but yes on a couple of our cars we moved them to LF for weight purposes. On my car I actually added around 70# of lead to LF
Do you guys go clockwise or anti clockwise around the track??
Does front to rear stagger matter as much as right to left?
I would say no. obviously it will play a role but your right over left will help you turn. elevation change front to back will play a roll in weight distribution like I said a taller RR will transfer weight to the front. Any size change will affect your handling but hard to say how much with out trying it. I've had really small front tires on before and didn't notice a huge difference other then rpm change.
all the set up parts are the same on asphalt ,
We can’t run rwd here we have to follow imca rules