Off topic, but just wanted to give you a general thanks for making this channel and all of these excellent videos. After developing a completely unearned, false sense of confidence from watching you methodically fix turntable after turntable, I bought an extra SL-Q2 a year ago from Goodwill, figuring I could get some experience tinkering around with it. Turned out that it did have a problem: the platter wouldn't stop spinning. At the time, I tried and failed to resolve the issue and had pretty much given up on it, figuring I'd eventually hand it off to a professional like you. But today, a year later, I managed to fix it! Anyway, thanks again. 👍🏽
@@TurntableGuy Not a huge problem (though it intimidated me), but the turntable platter would start spinning and wouldn't stop. I spent hours trying to run the plastic components through their motions to see whether some piece was stuck due to old grease or something like that. But once I found a small opening in the micro selector switch, I just sprayed it with DeOxit and worked it back and forth dozens of times. To my great surprise, it was suddenly working again (although I know from your channel that oxidation on pitch controls, etc. is the main issue for most Technics turntables so it should have been more obvious to me). I'm just happy it wasn't a problem with the PCB.
To pile on the off topic post, I wanted to jump in and offer my thanks to you as well. I'm working on servicing a Marantz 6100, and thanks to your videos I am feeling more confident about doing more tables in the future. Now I just need to figure out pricing 😂 Thanks again for all you do!
Another good video. Keep them coming. I had one of these for a while. It was a decent entry level table. I truely dislike tables without pitch control. It was also stuck mid cycle. I spun it manually and the auto return reset itself. Sometimes you win easily. I think it wS the same as this example and most of the tables of this variety are all the same.
Great tutorial thank you. I have a YP B4 and to my untrained eye, it looks very very much the same. I recently got a hold of one and it was running perfectly with only one problem, it was running slow, I took it to a Yamaha tech who fiddled and was swearing the whole time saying the machine is way too old and can't fix it. I took it back and finally worked the speed issue was that we run 240 volts at 50 Hz here and though I had a transformer to swap it over to 100 volts it was still running at 50 Hz and the machine needed 100 volts at 60 Hz, now it's working but I have4 a new problem, the tone arm is dropping a little after the start of the record, just a little bit but it's missing the beginning of the record for both 33 and 17. would you please offer some suggestions on how to adjust this? thank you in advance.
Seems like a mission impossible 😂 keep up the good work, I have a YP-B4 , issue is that not getting into right position of the tone arm for 30 ( record size )auto play , it does for 17 though.
I've got a similar (in terms of basic design) turntable, a Denon SL-5AS. These tables have little to no information about them online, but they seem to have the same basic build (AC motor belt drive), and the motor looks identical to the one in the video. The issue with mine is that speed is actually too high! I've got a selection of knock-off belts that roughly match what the table seems to need, but neither of them quite help to get the correct speed. The shorter ones feel a little too tight and pull the motor in slightly, but get the speed to around 33.8 rpm which is best I can get. With a belt that looks just the right size, the speed goes up to 34 rpm. I pondered about sanding down the pulley, but it's a permanent thing and I could make it worse. Tried wrapping some electrical tape around the platter to increase the diameter - helps with the speed, but trashes the wow&flutter spec. There's a second issue - I'm also getting significant motor hum. This hum is only present when the motor is running, and the needle is down on the platter, and seems to be at exactly 100 Hz (AC frequency is 50 Hz here). I suppose that is normal for these type of motors, but on my table it's certainly too loud and can be heard through speakers over quiet passages. I've cleaned and oiled the motor a few times already, reseated it. I have not replaced the mounts (which still look like they've got plenty of life). Looks like the noise travels too easily from the motor over the plinth (noise occurs both when belt is and is not attached to the motor). Could it be down to the poor construction of plinth or motor mounts? Or could it be down to the motor itself, is it possible it's vibrating too much? It certainly gets quite hot during operation. Appreciate if you were to take time to answer these questions. I really enjoy your videos and they've helped me learn quite a few things about maintenance on these vintage turntables.
Speed issues on AC motors are all down to belt thickness. The tape around the platter can work if done properly. My first guess about your motor hum was rubber mounts. The mounts need to be supple or the will transmit vibrations to the plinth.
Off topic, but just wanted to give you a general thanks for making this channel and all of these excellent videos. After developing a completely unearned, false sense of confidence from watching you methodically fix turntable after turntable, I bought an extra SL-Q2 a year ago from Goodwill, figuring I could get some experience tinkering around with it. Turned out that it did have a problem: the platter wouldn't stop spinning. At the time, I tried and failed to resolve the issue and had pretty much given up on it, figuring I'd eventually hand it off to a professional like you. But today, a year later, I managed to fix it! Anyway, thanks again. 👍🏽
You're welcome. What was the problem?
@@TurntableGuy Not a huge problem (though it intimidated me), but the turntable platter would start spinning and wouldn't stop. I spent hours trying to run the plastic components through their motions to see whether some piece was stuck due to old grease or something like that. But once I found a small opening in the micro selector switch, I just sprayed it with DeOxit and worked it back and forth dozens of times. To my great surprise, it was suddenly working again (although I know from your channel that oxidation on pitch controls, etc. is the main issue for most Technics turntables so it should have been more obvious to me). I'm just happy it wasn't a problem with the PCB.
To pile on the off topic post, I wanted to jump in and offer my thanks to you as well. I'm working on servicing a Marantz 6100, and thanks to your videos I am feeling more confident about doing more tables in the future. Now I just need to figure out pricing 😂 Thanks again for all you do!
I think it's an interesting design. Pretty cool to see how engineers think
Another good video. Keep them coming. I had one of these for a while. It was a decent entry level table. I truely dislike tables without pitch control. It was also stuck mid cycle. I spun it manually and the auto return reset itself. Sometimes you win easily. I think it wS the same as this example and most of the tables of this variety are all the same.
I have the YP-B4 and my auto start and repeat just stopped working. Do you have a video on that repair?
Great tutorial thank you. I have a YP B4 and to my untrained eye, it looks very very much the same. I recently got a hold of one and it was running perfectly with only one problem, it was running slow, I took it to a Yamaha tech who fiddled and was swearing the whole time saying the machine is way too old and can't fix it. I took it back and finally worked the speed issue was that we run 240 volts at 50 Hz here and though I had a transformer to swap it over to 100 volts it was still running at 50 Hz and the machine needed 100 volts at 60 Hz, now it's working but I have4 a new problem, the tone arm is dropping a little after the start of the record, just a little bit but it's missing the beginning of the record for both 33 and 17. would you please offer some suggestions on how to adjust this? thank you in advance.
Can you help with a Yamaha YP-B4
20:58 you answered my question before I could ask!
Seems like a mission impossible 😂 keep up the good work, I have a YP-B4 , issue is that not getting into right position of the tone arm for 30 ( record size )auto play , it does for 17 though.
Did you figure out how to fix this
tonearm drop problem?
I have the same and have no idea how to fix it.
Much Appreciated
Ken
I've got a similar (in terms of basic design) turntable, a Denon SL-5AS. These tables have little to no information about them online, but they seem to have the same basic build (AC motor belt drive), and the motor looks identical to the one in the video. The issue with mine is that speed is actually too high! I've got a selection of knock-off belts that roughly match what the table seems to need, but neither of them quite help to get the correct speed. The shorter ones feel a little too tight and pull the motor in slightly, but get the speed to around 33.8 rpm which is best I can get. With a belt that looks just the right size, the speed goes up to 34 rpm. I pondered about sanding down the pulley, but it's a permanent thing and I could make it worse. Tried wrapping some electrical tape around the platter to increase the diameter - helps with the speed, but trashes the wow&flutter spec.
There's a second issue - I'm also getting significant motor hum. This hum is only present when the motor is running, and the needle is down on the platter, and seems to be at exactly 100 Hz (AC frequency is 50 Hz here). I suppose that is normal for these type of motors, but on my table it's certainly too loud and can be heard through speakers over quiet passages. I've cleaned and oiled the motor a few times already, reseated it. I have not replaced the mounts (which still look like they've got plenty of life). Looks like the noise travels too easily from the motor over the plinth (noise occurs both when belt is and is not attached to the motor). Could it be down to the poor construction of plinth or motor mounts? Or could it be down to the motor itself, is it possible it's vibrating too much? It certainly gets quite hot during operation.
Appreciate if you were to take time to answer these questions. I really enjoy your videos and they've helped me learn quite a few things about maintenance on these vintage turntables.
Speed issues on AC motors are all down to belt thickness. The tape around the platter can work if done properly. My first guess about your motor hum was rubber mounts. The mounts need to be supple or the will transmit vibrations to the plinth.
@@TurntableGuy thank you. Guess I'll have to keep trying!