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Nice. Section 725 in the national electrical code (usa) governs the low voltage rules for wiring and class 2 wiring is typical for these devices which is limited to 100 volt-amps. The reason your can do a maximum of 5 has to do with your power source and the power draw of each timer. For example, if your power source coming from the HRV is 100 va, and each timer switch draws 18 va, five of them would draw a total of 18*5=90va. Any more would go over the limits of the source. Also if you cable isn't behind the drywall consider using plenum rated cable. Keep up the great work!
Hello guys, Quick question. How about if we use Fantech RTS-W (wireless push button timer) which communicate with Eco touch IAQ. Then there is no wiring required . Can we add more than 5. I know wired timer is max 5 timers. Why I am asking this I am going to build the big multi family icf home and planing to use light commercial Fantech hrv SHR 700. We will have more than 5 bathroom.
@@hunjan315 I would be worried if you are doing a full ICF house using a wireless system. Concrete walls and wireless systems don't always work that great. Looking at the manual on page 13 shop.fantech.net/upload/assets/444567_LIGHT_COMMERCIAL_SHR_IOM_EN_FR_20190426_182323054.PDF it says the maximum number of secondary controls, wireless or not is 5 regardless of the style you use. You might have to do two systems for a house that size.
Thank you so much! This exactly what I needed. Looks like we have the same HRV unit and adding the last time. Might have to go junction box like you showed in the end. Very very useful!!
@@ResearchDesignBuild so finally one year later I did this just like how you explained. Everything works as it should. I incidentally found out my blower motor was shot. And changed that out unrelated to adding a timer but wow that was as easy as a swap. Should have made a video ha. Thanks a lot! Getting closer to My basement finish
@@sushi13141 Great to hear you are making good progress on your renovation. And yes you should have made a video on that swap, haha. I would have watched!
Hi Your video regarding new timers addition is awesome. I m building basement and adding two washrooms. I have total 3 washrooms on main and 2nd floor. Therefore the new washrooms in basement would be no. 4 & 5. Could you please guide me. I don’t know how can i send photos of my HRV. It is fantech HR 200R model.
Hi. Wondering if I could just replace the factory wall switch with a smart switch (for controlling lights) with a DIMMER. Or just plug the power to a Simple Smart switch and set the control to say …green or orange ,…but use the smart electrical plug switch to control the electricity
These timers are running a 12V system and I believe a 120V rated switch would draw too much power and would cause you more problems than it would be worth. I would stick to the basic 12V circuit switch.
hi there, is it possible and is it ok to connect a new timer directly to the HRV, to the same place were the other timers already are connected??? thanks
I had not thought of doing that. However I suppose that you might be able to do that provided you could get both wires into the connection terminal properly.
yes this is the easiest you can tap in anywhere in fact.. this guy made it way more complicated than it actually is. He didn't understand the wiring diagram he showed in the video..
you def dont need to run the wires back just add new switch anywhere on the circuit. You can strip off the wires going to an existing switch (if you can find) and add it there. Thats what I did, works well.
I agree it would work, but then you have wired connections that aren't accessible. I believe by code all connections need to be accessible from a junction box at all times. So you can't just cut into the wire mid run above the ceiling and splice into it.
@@sushi13141 its low voltage I don't think code requires a junction box.. once you have a good connection the environment is pretty stable so shouldn't have issues. I have had outlets and switches die in a new house though that were installed by "professionals" so yeah .. I prefer to do things myself and take the time to do it right.
Thank you to everyone who has subscribed! Just past the 500-subscriber mark and half way to my goal of 1000 subscribers. Please consider subscribing and helping out a small UA-cam channel!
I was able to wire my basement timer direct to my HRV and it works perfect. Easier than trying to tie into the upstairs timers.
Nice. Section 725 in the national electrical code (usa) governs the low voltage rules for wiring and class 2 wiring is typical for these devices which is limited to 100 volt-amps. The reason your can do a maximum of 5 has to do with your power source and the power draw of each timer. For example, if your power source coming from the HRV is 100 va, and each timer switch draws 18 va, five of them would draw a total of 18*5=90va. Any more would go over the limits of the source. Also if you cable isn't behind the drywall consider using plenum rated cable. Keep up the great work!
I knew I could count on you to chime in with the answer for that one. Thanks
@@ResearchDesignBuild controls happens to be my specialty. ❤️✌️
Hello guys,
Quick question.
How about if we use Fantech RTS-W (wireless push button timer) which communicate with Eco touch IAQ. Then there is no wiring required .
Can we add more than 5. I know wired timer is max 5 timers.
Why I am asking this I am going to build the big multi family icf home and planing to use light commercial Fantech hrv SHR 700.
We will have more than 5 bathroom.
@@hunjan315 I would be worried if you are doing a full ICF house using a wireless system. Concrete walls and wireless systems don't always work that great. Looking at the manual on page 13 shop.fantech.net/upload/assets/444567_LIGHT_COMMERCIAL_SHR_IOM_EN_FR_20190426_182323054.PDF it says the maximum number of secondary controls, wireless or not is 5 regardless of the style you use. You might have to do two systems for a house that size.
@@ResearchDesignBuild thankx very much.
Thank you , I will connect my new Timer no 4 directly to to hrv
glad the video helped you
Thank you so much! This exactly what I needed. Looks like we have the same HRV unit and adding the last time. Might have to go junction box like you showed in the end. Very very useful!!
Glad it helped! and thanks for the video suggestion.
@@ResearchDesignBuild so finally one year later I did this just like how you explained. Everything works as it should. I incidentally found out my blower motor was shot. And changed that out unrelated to adding a timer but wow that was as easy as a swap. Should have made a video ha.
Thanks a lot! Getting closer to
My basement finish
@@sushi13141 Great to hear you are making good progress on your renovation. And yes you should have made a video on that swap, haha. I would have watched!
Hi Your video regarding new timers addition is awesome.
I m building basement and adding two washrooms. I have total 3 washrooms on main and 2nd floor. Therefore the new washrooms in basement would be no. 4 & 5.
Could you please guide me. I don’t know how can i send photos of my HRV. It is fantech HR 200R model.
Hi. Wondering if I could just replace the factory wall switch with a smart switch (for controlling lights) with a DIMMER. Or just plug the power to a Simple Smart switch and set the control to say …green or orange ,…but use the smart electrical plug switch to control the electricity
These timers are running a 12V system and I believe a 120V rated switch would draw too much power and would cause you more problems than it would be worth. I would stick to the basic 12V circuit switch.
hi there, is it possible and is it ok to connect a new timer directly to the HRV, to the same place were the other timers already are connected??? thanks
I had not thought of doing that. However I suppose that you might be able to do that provided you could get both wires into the connection terminal properly.
@@ResearchDesignBuild thanks for your prompt answer, my connection terminal is width screws, so would that be ok...?
@@LUISNEVESable Yes I think that should work. I would double check the manual and see if they say any differently just to be sure.
@@ResearchDesignBuild will do thanks.
yes this is the easiest you can tap in anywhere in fact.. this guy made it way more complicated than it actually is. He didn't understand the wiring diagram he showed in the video..
you def dont need to run the wires back just add new switch anywhere on the circuit. You can strip off the wires going to an existing switch (if you can find) and add it there. Thats what I did, works well.
I agree it would work, but then you have wired connections that aren't accessible. I believe by code all connections need to be accessible from a junction box at all times. So you can't just cut into the wire mid run above the ceiling and splice into it.
I see what you mean. Did you leave the junction box accessible In ceiling with a wall plate. Would that work?
@@sushi13141 nope connected it in the ceiling and drywalled over it :)
@@radekw708 haha yes that would work eh
@@sushi13141 its low voltage I don't think code requires a junction box.. once you have a good connection the environment is pretty stable so shouldn't have issues. I have had outlets and switches die in a new house though that were installed by "professionals" so yeah .. I prefer to do things myself and take the time to do it right.
Yeah you really dont need to do what you did (re-wiring) .. just leave everything as is and add additional switches anywhere on the circuit.
But then wouldn't you have wire junctions just in the middle of a run? At least here any junctions need to be accessible from a junction box.