One of the best upgrades to cockpit comfort I found is strengthening your lower traps/mid back. So many riders shoulders are hunched up round their ears and all that weight rolled forwards. Mainly due to modern phone/office lifestyle of being hunched over so you have a weak mid back and tight chest. Train to hold your should blades back and down and it will transform your riding comfort. As you ride imagine tucking your shoulder blades in your back pockets and you will soon learn how bad your posture is...Wrist pain, shoulder pain all 100% gone!
4 роки тому+3
Also, the more straight the handlebar is (no backsweep), the harder it is to lower your elbows and engage your back muscles.
yup. told my personal trainer that i wanted to work on this and after just 2 weeks there was a MASSIVE difference. Can't wait for social isolation to end so I can get back with the trainer.
i find i am all loose in the rest of my body but my shoulders and neck feel strained like im doing shrugs lol. I have a 50MM stem and 780mm wide bars with Rise: 30mm 5° upsweep, 10° backsweep and i do really like the feel. I think im just weak back lol its like you say i am in an office all day and i get neck strain from computer and then i feel it on the bike. Trying to figure out how to combat this on the bike. I am not sure if i am just too tight or if i need to do my position better.
@@jasonmccune9313 my trainer makes me do this awesome exercise where there's a rope with handles tied to the ceiling and then i lean way way back at like a 45deg angle and then pull my body up until my hands meet my chest and then go back down. Absolutely great workout. Doesn't even hurt very much but gets your back muscles engaged.
As a man in my 60's returning to my motocross glory days riding mountain bikes, I have found a LOT of things have changed since the 70's. There is so much out there that it is hard to wade through the weeds, but this video really helped with the technology side because I see it everywhere and many manufacturers aren't all that clear. This is now my base video for all thing cockpit related. I now have enough basics to experiment as I just happen to be placing 780mm bars on my hardtail in exchange for the stock 610mm bar. Had to add an extra spacer to accommodate the new stem, but I think I'll bring the stem down. Maybe I should have started with a 20-25mm rise bar instead of this 15mm, but I will keep at it until I find my perfect fit. Then you ALL know what will happen, I'll want to upgrade my bike and start over trying something new while having old reliable as a backup. Great video.
I couldn't because I'd fall asleep in about 10 seconds. He seems like a nice guy but I hate when I click a video and it's him and not Doddy. I guess all I have to do is not watch it.
Best video in a long time. Although I knew what you were talking about most of the time, it was a refreshingly simple approach. 3 weeks ago I moved my controls inboard for 1 finger braking and it's one of the best things I've done. Thanks guys.
So intuitive Henry and could listen to all these guys talk for ages because the passion is there.but the best line is "I feel as if ive arm wrestled Pat Butcher"😂😂😂what a Line. I seriously need to tinker with my bike I'm 6ft 2" and I sometimes get the pins and needles feeling in my fingers when riding for 30-40 mins and my arms feel over stretched.thinking of the spacers as a start after trying saddle height,tyre pressure,fork tension.keep up the good work.
I had riden my bike for years just how the LBS set it up. Figured they new what they were doing. Been watching GMBN and GMBN Tech for a while and recently rearranged my cockpit. It is so much better and I feel I have more control and comfort. Thanks to all you beautiful people!
I punched a tree today, which flipped the right brake lever to near vertical; I took the opportunity to adjust both brake levers to near-flat and find that it works a lot better than the steeper downward angle I had been using! 👍
I'm trying to get a good fit on my bike currently. I bought a variety of bars and stems to try out a bunch of different configurations, and hopefully I will determine the sweet spot for my requirements. Like you mentioned, moving the stem up and down with spacers on the tube is also a great way to see additional positions, without dropping extra cash on parts you may not need or want lol. Extra fasteners are useful too if you find yourself doing a lot of tinkering and suspect some fasteners are becoming too worn, just replace them to be sure. I already feel like I'm getting close though without even having done too much, so I will probably have extra stuff that I don't really need, but totally worth it if I can get the proper fit. I felt like the following items would allow me to try a range of possibilities and help me narrow down where I might need to focus more (all 31.8/alloy): RaceFace Turbine 725 (20R/8BS/5US) Ritchey Comp Riser 740 (20R/9BS/2US) TruVativ Descendant Riser 760 (20R/7BS/5US) Ritchey Comp Trail Riser 780 (20R/9BS/2US) Ritchey WCS Trail 10D Riser 800 (20R/10BS/4US) RaceFace Ride 6D/60mm Easton EA70 7D/80mm Shimano Pro LT 35D/90mm Ritchey RL-1 6D/100mm I thought the 725 Turbine would be too small, but dropping down and out with the Pro LT made a massive difference, as well as rolling the bar into the proper position (was hurting my wrists and palms). Still feels like I need more room though. I'm going to try dropping the stem 10mm on the stack, and if that doesn't work then I might try slamming the RL-1 stem to get out further in front but maintain the vertical position. If that doesn't work, then perhaps a wider bar. So many possibilities!
You can, with a bit of common sense track the mess the gov are making... Wed 13th May- Johnson says some waffle that he knows many will interperate as the virus has gone and they can get back to work! Now, highlight two to three weeks ahead as the next spike in cases and, a few days after, cue Johnson blaming the public for getting it wrong. Repeat.
Just one addition: crank length can drastically affect fatigue and bike fit. On a frame with a 17.5 inch seat tube (yes, i know it's the old standard), 165mm cranks offer me the most efficiency and the most power and speed, while also improving cockpit position and range of motion around the frame. I'm also 5'9" with a 31" inseam. On that note, I have yet to find another set of 165s for my new bike, so I'm runnin the stock 175s for now, and it's tough. As for the other details, I'm running a 780mm handlebar (I prefer 720), a 50mm stem (Im thinking of trying out a 70mm), and I run my levers around the low 30s, high 20s, and I'm running cable actuated hydros (originally got them for my gasbike. they proved insufficient for that, so I'm gonna invest in XT four pot brakes). My tires are Continental TrailKing 2.4s in 27.5 (they work very well in the dry, dusty, throat scratching, eye burning, cough inducing clay-sand desert conditions inherent to the Boise area).
Your timing is impeccable. Just picked up my first bike and rode 12 miles of single track. Safe to say my hands were cooked. Brakes were too (new pads incoming). I have some work to do and this will really help.
I haven't watch this video yet but I'm stoked to watch. I've been hoping to see this for months! Udate: I bought a new bike and for the past few months I've been trying to fine tune it. First few rides I'd get severe nerve pain in my forearm. I adjusted my levers and it stopped. Now I'm trying to figure out how to move back more. This was an awesome video! Yesterday I just figured out how to adjust the reach on my brakes. I'm going to watch this a few more times! THANKS!
Interesting how you have your brake levers was how I always had my rear brake on my motorbikes including when I raced them. I had the same with others who rode my bikes most of then HATED the position
I set up my brakes the exact same way. I run the levers dialed in super close to the grip. It lets my first finger relax, and I get the as close to a full hand wrap as I can without going full death grip.
i tried that today (before watching the video) and i had way less arm pump than usual. also i felt the brake was more predictable. on the other hand the pressure point didn't feel as sharp as i am used to.
I'm actually going to try the TRP 2.3mm rotors to get that initial bite a bit sharper. Shimano brakes are great but their pad contact adjustment is worthless :-D
After 10 years away from mountainbiking i am just about to assemble my new ragley marley 2.0. Used to ride dirt bikes and the trend then was to cut your handlebars so that you could more easily spin your bars. I never cut my bars on any of my bikes and i tried to stay with the same bars on every bike, i used the truvativ hussefeldt bars then. The width of bars have increased since i rode a bike the hussefeldts was 680mm original and the bars on my new bike is 780. I have bad shoulders and i think i will have to shorten the bars to around 700 just to not strain my shoulders so much plus i am a sucker for wheelies and manuals and that will help move the weight back. But i will try for a while with the 780 and just see how it feels. Always felt that the wider bars feel more stable but you lose a lot of maneuverability with wider bars.
A couple of wraps of Teflon tape under your control clamps allows them to rotate and not break during your crashes. I use milk carton plastic in the same way for my burlier enduro motorcycle controls.
Cockpit setup is essential, I’ve shared Doddy’s video to many helping those with discomfort while riding to help them. Why do we state here if we roll the handle bars forward, our hands and wrists roll forward too? Our hands are not glued to the grips, we simply change the angle of the sweep changing the connecting angle between the wrist and elbow. If we roll the bars forward or backwards we simply re-grip with the same degree position the arms come from.
Hate to be that guy but I’m the mate on an oil tanker and she doesn’t want to stay straight! Takes constant input to keep her on course. Either way your example was understood and thank you for the great videos!
What a great video!! Its not your common do it like this video.... If you want to learn on how and why things work and try to figure out what works for you this is it!!! So thank you for this!
Many good points!:) Trying to find the best setup for avoiding sore thumb joints, especially on the left hand🧐The joint closest to the hand. There's so many theories about why this gets sore and what to do about it, but I imagine the setup plays a huge part here. Anyone else had this happened and fixed it?
Ooff. So many information! Thank you so much for that I did not get such a huge amount of information anywhere else yet. And every single sentence is is useful for finding my set up! Again - thank you very much and best wishes from Germany 👍🏻
Can you do a feature on how to change separate clamps to combined lever/shifter setups sharing a clamp? Also regarding mixing manufacturers / systems? I use a br-m6000 brake and an eagle gx shifter and would like to clean up the cockpit by reducing the number of clamps. Also interested in similar options for all the remotes (seatpost, lockout)
So in short, buy a bike shop, and spend a month in there going through every single handle bar, stem, and brake lever combination till you find one that works for you
For me, I had a stock Giant Contact seat. It was so uncomfortable that I couldn't find the right position for anything. I just got an Ergon SM Sport saddle and set it up basically like the stock one. Today I rode and not only was it comfortable but no matter where I'm placed on the saddle it's comfortable. It rides like a different bike. I wouldn't have thought that a good seat could make such a huge difference.
The angle of the levers should be set up to match your wrist/forearm angle.. If you have the handlebars high up or you sit/placed very low then the levers should be in a neutral angle/position. If you are standing/siting up often ie far above the handlebars then the levers should be tilted down in the same angle as your arm to not strain your wrists. This is what I and many friends of mine has learnt by racing motorcycles. Imagine braking from 270km/h to 60kmh and all the loads goes to your arms and if your levers are mounted at a wrong angle your wrists/palms and arms will start to scream for help :P
You have to think about the position you’ll be riding in though. If you do this static you’ll end up with levers too pointed down. When riding in an aggressive position like on a steep downhill, your body is lower and further back and this is the position where you should line the levers with your forearms as this is when you’re likely to be holding on tight and doing the most aggressive braking. I moved mine up a few weeks ago and I actually can’t believe how much better I feel on even fairly tame trail riding as the short blasts of downhill are a lot less fatiguing
I first I was like, "Dude, you ride without gloves in the winter? In -25 C my hand would freeze off." Then I realized that winter is probably not the same where you live as where I live.
I have the issue with getting numb hands when on a long ride, to the point I can't feel my shifters. This is obviously not perfect but I am not sure which way to alter the handlebars to correct this. I bought new bars with sweep etc as I thought this would rectify the issue from my flat bars but it seems to be even worse. Any advice on the problem would be greatly appreciated if someone else has the same issue. I bought new suspension forks, new grips but there is obviously something not right.
reference for bar width: Flow: You wanna ride wider bars for control and stability when flying Tech: A bit narrower for tighter movements Rise and backsweep? Somewhere to start is 15 - 20mm rise and 9 degrees backsweep, and from there you can find your preferences, most people like me stay on that, some find other opinions
Hey UA-cam people I wonder if you can help me out? I have a Scott Genius 960 (2019) my dropper remote is damaged and is part of the twinlock set up. Can I get just the dropper lever or do i need to buy the whole thing? 🙏
The best setup is in the book “Dailed” by lee McCormack, he links the the centre of your hand grip in relation to the steerer tube axis, then subsequently the rise linked to an imaginary line from the bottom bracket as a angle from the floor. This defines the reach all according to your hight. This gives you the best centre of gravity compromise between seated and standing attack position. All his information is copyrighted so buy the book it’s not expensive and far cheaper than getting your bike fitted by someone who doesn’t know as much as you Edit, as Cornishcatus says in the like below, the very basic are on Pinkbike but that doesn’t really give you the full system. In the book it details the different RAD angles for various mtb disciplines XC DH Trail ect and not just the theoretical ideal from the Table illustrated but also the practical way to check because obviously real people aren’t average, they have different portions so you can continue to fine tune. It also defines the reasoning behind stem length, not the usual shorter the better, although 9 times out of ten it is. Remember ever part of the cockpit is inextricably linked, so if you change one dimension it will affect another
My RAAD is at 59 degrees (which is what is recommended), but my RAD is about 50mm too long. I also have short arms, so I assume I'd want even shorter RAD, and I already have a 35mm length stem. Does this likely mean my frame is too large? Will moving a frame size down also decrease my RAAD and require higher rise handlebars/ spacer stack?
Spencer hi do you mean it’s 50mm to long measuring up the RAAD line or horizontal reach? Did you try the pedals on stands and pull the bars up to you arms and shoulders down?
@@robertbradley1133 measuring up the RAD line. I'm about 194 cm tall * 4.47 = 867. My current RAD is somewhere between 910-920. Where can I find info on this pedals on the stands and pull bars into chest test?
Handlebar alignment...i saw a tool, made by Tune, that German engineering co. for lightweigth alu goodness...they have a laser site to replace or fit to the front plate of your stem! Fires a line onto your tyre. The odd thing was the user can calibrate (i.e. adjust) the laser. Seems a tool that looks to over engineer a problem but then make it worse than ususal by letting user error slip in. Interesting all the same.
I would like to see a Video what everyone should do after a time in terms of mtb maintenance. I just ordered my first bike and i'm already planning on maintaining it 😅. I am very unsure what to do regularly.
Wash your bike. Lube your chain every major ride. Grease the bearings every year. Wash your bike. Keep the suspension and dropper seals lubricated, every other wash will do. Wash your bike. Service the suspension and dropper after a year or so of use. Wash. Your. Bike.
Good timing on this vid. I’m trying to clean up my cockpit (emtb) and the geometry of my bike vs my body shape is likely a factor. I’m going to experiment with different angles. I want quick access to the dropper lever, brakes, shifter and the mode button(s). I’m getting a new dropper lever (Wolfe) this week. My hight is 5’9” but my arms are long (6’2’ span). Inseam is 32”. I find that I’m using the back of the seat as i ride uphill and my left index finger starts to cramp. Could dropping my stem hight a few mm help? Also adjusting the brake lever angle?
There's various types of top caps now _(just google "barspin" + "top cap")_ no need to hack stuff apart. You'll need to re-do you shifting cable/s though.
Where is the time I even cut my straight bar as short as possible and then even fitting barends? How I controlled my bike like that is still a mystery.
Hi there, can i have a question? Is it only one sizě of fork neck end? Iď like to buy a new burgtec enduro 35mm mk2 stem, but i cant find diameter of stem hole from fork side? My fork is old 1 1/8 through hole neck, i know that lot of new forks has 1.5 to 1 1/8 neck reduction, but dont know if it will fit.
Just remove your stem and measure the outer (!) diameter of your "steerer tube" - that's the number you go shopping with! I'm aware of three different widths: - 1 1/8 inch - 1 1/5 inch and - Giant's so called _"overdrive/2"_ wich oddly lies somewhere in between. Make sure what to get before you buy, just go and measure. 👍🏻
Changing anything is going to have a Chain reaction... Domino effect... for better or worse ... small adjustments may be best ? But I am not a pro, I don't know :D
I think Henry’s gone (?) but hoping someone can point me in right direction... have just changed from 12 yr old bike with very narrow bars 58cm on S frame to new setup and larger frame M with 75cm bars. Overall feels like right move except for mega pain and almost RSI in both thumbs but especially shifter thumb. Haven’t been able to ride for days ‘coz of pain and weakness. Q: where do I start with fixing this? Shorten bars? Increase back sweep? Move controls further inward? Or is it that Ive gone from SLX shifter to Deore which feels really stiff and hard to shift. Hand and thumb fatigue both hands byr mostly right/ Any pointers?
just a tip... try adding pillows around your room to minimize echoes when recording
One of the best upgrades to cockpit comfort I found is strengthening your lower traps/mid back. So many riders shoulders are hunched up round their ears and all that weight rolled forwards. Mainly due to modern phone/office lifestyle of being hunched over so you have a weak mid back and tight chest. Train to hold your should blades back and down and it will transform your riding comfort. As you ride imagine tucking your shoulder blades in your back pockets and you will soon learn how bad your posture is...Wrist pain, shoulder pain all 100% gone!
Also, the more straight the handlebar is (no backsweep), the harder it is to lower your elbows and engage your back muscles.
yup. told my personal trainer that i wanted to work on this and after just 2 weeks there was a MASSIVE difference. Can't wait for social isolation to end so I can get back with the trainer.
i find i am all loose in the rest of my body but my shoulders and neck feel strained like im doing shrugs lol. I have a 50MM stem and 780mm wide bars with Rise: 30mm
5° upsweep, 10° backsweep and i do really like the feel. I think im just weak back lol its like you say i am in an office all day and i get neck strain from computer and then i feel it on the bike. Trying to figure out how to combat this on the bike. I am not sure if i am just too tight or if i need to do my position better.
@@jasonmccune9313 my trainer makes me do this awesome exercise where there's a rope with handles tied to the ceiling and then i lean way way back at like a 45deg angle and then pull my body up until my hands meet my chest and then go back down.
Absolutely great workout. Doesn't even hurt very much but gets your back muscles engaged.
@@DavidMaruca_ it's called body row
As a man in my 60's returning to my motocross glory days riding mountain bikes, I have found a LOT of things have changed since the 70's. There is so much out there that it is hard to wade through the weeds, but this video really helped with the technology side because I see it everywhere and many manufacturers aren't all that clear. This is now my base video for all thing cockpit related. I now have enough basics to experiment as I just happen to be placing 780mm bars on my hardtail in exchange for the stock 610mm bar. Had to add an extra spacer to accommodate the new stem, but I think I'll bring the stem down. Maybe I should have started with a 20-25mm rise bar instead of this 15mm, but I will keep at it until I find my perfect fit. Then you ALL know what will happen, I'll want to upgrade my bike and start over trying something new while having old reliable as a backup. Great video.
i could listen to this fella talk all day
ASMR lol
Yes same
I know Henry is so chill
True. Knowledgeable and chill. But he could use a little sound deadening material in that area he is in.
I couldn't because I'd fall asleep in about 10 seconds. He seems like a nice guy but I hate when I click a video and it's him and not Doddy. I guess all I have to do is not watch it.
Best video in a long time. Although I knew what you were talking about most of the time, it was a refreshingly simple approach. 3 weeks ago I moved my controls inboard for 1 finger braking and it's one of the best things I've done. Thanks guys.
So intuitive Henry and could listen to all these guys talk for ages because the passion is there.but the best line is "I feel as if ive arm wrestled Pat Butcher"😂😂😂what a Line.
I seriously need to tinker with my bike I'm 6ft 2" and I sometimes get the pins and needles feeling in my fingers when riding for 30-40 mins and my arms feel over stretched.thinking of the spacers as a start after trying saddle height,tyre pressure,fork tension.keep up the good work.
I had riden my bike for years just how the LBS set it up. Figured they new what they were doing. Been watching GMBN and GMBN Tech for a while and recently rearranged my cockpit. It is so much better and I feel I have more control and comfort. Thanks to all you beautiful people!
great vid. Right on Time because im actually looking for a new cockpit
I was actually going to fiddle around with my cockpit on my new bike today... xD
@@MrNat916777 what bike you got?
@@niklasmtb5113 Spec. Fuse Comp
@@MrNat916777 nice bike my man
I punched a tree today, which flipped the right brake lever to near vertical; I took the opportunity to adjust both brake levers to near-flat and find that it works a lot better than the steeper downward angle I had been using! 👍
For whatever reason whenever I do anything on my bike I always mess up something else 😂
Ditto
Take a little give a little, exactly like the laws of thermodynamics
I'm trying to get a good fit on my bike currently. I bought a variety of bars and stems to try out a bunch of different configurations, and hopefully I will determine the sweet spot for my requirements. Like you mentioned, moving the stem up and down with spacers on the tube is also a great way to see additional positions, without dropping extra cash on parts you may not need or want lol. Extra fasteners are useful too if you find yourself doing a lot of tinkering and suspect some fasteners are becoming too worn, just replace them to be sure. I already feel like I'm getting close though without even having done too much, so I will probably have extra stuff that I don't really need, but totally worth it if I can get the proper fit. I felt like the following items would allow me to try a range of possibilities and help me narrow down where I might need to focus more (all 31.8/alloy):
RaceFace Turbine 725 (20R/8BS/5US)
Ritchey Comp Riser 740 (20R/9BS/2US)
TruVativ Descendant Riser 760 (20R/7BS/5US)
Ritchey Comp Trail Riser 780 (20R/9BS/2US)
Ritchey WCS Trail 10D Riser 800 (20R/10BS/4US)
RaceFace Ride 6D/60mm
Easton EA70 7D/80mm
Shimano Pro LT 35D/90mm
Ritchey RL-1 6D/100mm
I thought the 725 Turbine would be too small, but dropping down and out with the Pro LT made a massive difference, as well as rolling the bar into the proper position (was hurting my wrists and palms). Still feels like I need more room though. I'm going to try dropping the stem 10mm on the stack, and if that doesn't work then I might try slamming the RL-1 stem to get out further in front but maintain the vertical position. If that doesn't work, then perhaps a wider bar. So many possibilities!
Is there much point in having a year planner up on the wall for 2020? 😂.
Ps. Great vid
A completely blank year planner no less
24th of May - eat a Gherkin/ Shout at squirrels to be quiet.
You can, with a bit of common sense track the mess the gov are making...
Wed 13th May- Johnson says some waffle that he knows many will interperate as the virus has gone and they can get back to work! Now, highlight two to three weeks ahead as the next spike in cases and, a few days after, cue Johnson blaming the public for getting it wrong. Repeat.
Nice to see you have such a busy year planned out...
Just one addition: crank length can drastically affect fatigue and bike fit. On a frame with a 17.5 inch seat tube (yes, i know it's the old standard), 165mm cranks offer me the most efficiency and the most power and speed, while also improving cockpit position and range of motion around the frame. I'm also 5'9" with a 31" inseam.
On that note, I have yet to find another set of 165s for my new bike, so I'm runnin the stock 175s for now, and it's tough. As for the other details, I'm running a 780mm handlebar (I prefer 720), a 50mm stem (Im thinking of trying out a 70mm), and I run my levers around the low 30s, high 20s, and I'm running cable actuated hydros (originally got them for my gasbike. they proved insufficient for that, so I'm gonna invest in XT four pot brakes). My tires are Continental TrailKing 2.4s in 27.5 (they work very well in the dry, dusty, throat scratching, eye burning, cough inducing clay-sand desert conditions inherent to the Boise area).
Nice polaroid on the shelf there !!
Excellent, thought provoking video. Only came across it today but very timely as i'm fine tuning the riding position of my new bike.
Your timing is impeccable. Just picked up my first bike and rode 12 miles of single track. Safe to say my hands were cooked. Brakes were too (new pads incoming). I have some work to do and this will really help.
I haven't watch this video yet but I'm stoked to watch. I've been hoping to see this for months!
Udate: I bought a new bike and for the past few months I've been trying to fine tune it. First few rides I'd get severe nerve pain in my forearm. I adjusted my levers and it stopped. Now I'm trying to figure out how to move back more. This was an awesome video! Yesterday I just figured out how to adjust the reach on my brakes. I'm going to watch this a few more times! THANKS!
Your tips & advise are the best.
I totally agree with you from my personal experiences.
👍
Revgrips have been a game changer for me and arm pump.
22:00 'i feel like i've arm wrestled pat butcher by the end of it' lmao i had to rewind to make sure i heard that right
Fantastic simple explanation of everything. We need more if this.
Such detailed, comprehensive, and clear info from The Prof 👏👏👏
Good points, I'm in a dilemma over my stem length but for me personally I might change my brake lever angle , Cheers!
Interesting how you have your brake levers was how I always had my rear brake on my motorbikes including when I raced them. I had the same with others who rode my bikes most of then HATED the position
I set up my brakes the exact same way. I run the levers dialed in super close to the grip. It lets my first finger relax, and I get the as close to a full hand wrap as I can without going full death grip.
i tried that today (before watching the video) and i had way less arm pump than usual. also i felt the brake was more predictable. on the other hand the pressure point didn't feel as sharp as i am used to.
I'm actually going to try the TRP 2.3mm rotors to get that initial bite a bit sharper. Shimano brakes are great but their pad contact adjustment is worthless :-D
The information in this video is GOLD!
Cracking video. Very thorough. Nicely done!
Wow this is such a great video explaining this. Wish I had found it much sooner.
That’s a good trick with centering the bars like that.
After 10 years away from mountainbiking i am just about to assemble my new ragley marley 2.0. Used to ride dirt bikes and the trend then was to cut your handlebars so that you could more easily spin your bars. I never cut my bars on any of my bikes and i tried to stay with the same bars on every bike, i used the truvativ hussefeldt bars then. The width of bars have increased since i rode a bike the hussefeldts was 680mm original and the bars on my new bike is 780. I have bad shoulders and i think i will have to shorten the bars to around 700 just to not strain my shoulders so much plus i am a sucker for wheelies and manuals and that will help move the weight back. But i will try for a while with the 780 and just see how it feels. Always felt that the wider bars feel more stable but you lose a lot of maneuverability with wider bars.
I found 12 degree back sweep with 30mm rise on 780mm carbon bars were a revelation relative to the 9 degree 27mm bars as standard on my Levo
A couple of wraps of Teflon tape under your control clamps allows them to rotate and not break during your crashes. I use milk carton plastic in the same way for my burlier enduro motorcycle controls.
Cockpit setup is essential, I’ve shared Doddy’s video to many helping those with discomfort while riding to help them.
Why do we state here if we roll the handle bars forward, our hands and wrists roll forward too? Our hands are not glued to the grips, we simply change the angle of the sweep changing the connecting angle between the wrist and elbow. If we roll the bars forward or backwards we simply re-grip with the same degree position the arms come from.
What mount do you use to mount your Computer to your top tube? Looks like it is stuck on
Hate to be that guy but I’m the mate on an oil tanker and she doesn’t want to stay straight! Takes constant input to keep her on course. Either way your example was understood and thank you for the great videos!
What a great video!! Its not your common do it like this video.... If you want to learn on how and why things work and try to figure out what works for you this is it!!! So thank you for this!
Many good points!:) Trying to find the best setup for avoiding sore thumb joints, especially on the left hand🧐The joint closest to the hand. There's so many theories about why this gets sore and what to do about it, but I imagine the setup plays a huge part here. Anyone else had this happened and fixed it?
Who the heck makes that top tube mount for the computer? Does it hold up?
Ooff. So many information! Thank you so much for that I did not get such a huge amount of information anywhere else yet. And every single sentence is is useful for finding my set up! Again - thank you very much and best wishes from Germany 👍🏻
Great to hear! Glad you found it useful 🤘
Great Video Henry!!! Love, Love, Love the Topics! 💣💣💣
which App was used to measure the brake angle at 15:11? Great video though, still learning something, love the content.
Many thanks for this excellent synopsis Sir ...
Can you do a feature on how to change separate clamps to combined lever/shifter setups sharing a clamp? Also regarding mixing manufacturers / systems? I use a br-m6000 brake and an eagle gx shifter and would like to clean up the cockpit by reducing the number of clamps. Also interested in similar options for all the remotes (seatpost, lockout)
Doing a push with hands closer to you torso is much better. It develops strength and keeps everything tight.
I have changed my cockpit on my XC bike from 90mm stem and 700 mm bar to 75mm stem and 740mm bar, much better
Awesome vid what garmin mount is that??
❤️❤️❤️ Henry FTW ❤️❤️❤️
🔥🔥🔥🔥 too
What’s that adhesive mount for the Garmin on the top tube?
Lennart Nebel 76 projects
Thank you! 👍🏻
Around here the trees are not only on one side of the trail. Threading the needle comes to mind...
Did you miss moving the spacers? I made my reach longer by dropping the stem. Then adding more rise on the bars to put them back at the same height.
So in short, buy a bike shop, and spend a month in there going through every single handle bar, stem, and brake lever combination till you find one that works for you
Any suggestions on saddle positions which could affect the body etc. ?? Cheers
For me, I had a stock Giant Contact seat. It was so uncomfortable that I couldn't find the right position for anything. I just got an Ergon SM Sport saddle and set it up basically like the stock one. Today I rode and not only was it comfortable but no matter where I'm placed on the saddle it's comfortable. It rides like a different bike. I wouldn't have thought that a good seat could make such a huge difference.
Can you do a bit for dirt jumpers and slope style riders?
The angle of the levers should be set up to match your wrist/forearm angle.. If you have the handlebars high up or you sit/placed very low then the levers should be in a neutral angle/position. If you are standing/siting up often ie far above the handlebars then the levers should be tilted down in the same angle as your arm to not strain your wrists. This is what I and many friends of mine has learnt by racing motorcycles. Imagine braking from 270km/h to 60kmh and all the loads goes to your arms and if your levers are mounted at a wrong angle your wrists/palms and arms will start to scream for help :P
You have to think about the position you’ll be riding in though. If you do this static you’ll end up with levers too pointed down. When riding in an aggressive position like on a steep downhill, your body is lower and further back and this is the position where you should line the levers with your forearms as this is when you’re likely to be holding on tight and doing the most aggressive braking. I moved mine up a few weeks ago and I actually can’t believe how much better I feel on even fairly tame trail riding as the short blasts of downhill are a lot less fatiguing
@@acameron87 ofcourse, that is the premise of my post, you adapt the lever position to the position your body is at(your arms)
Pillokun yeah totally! Was just adding that as folk might interpret what you’re saying as measure the angle when they are stood up and not moving
Ive got a 120mm rd stem on my mtb, i dnt ride trails only forrest fire rds
I first I was like, "Dude, you ride without gloves in the winter? In -25 C my hand would freeze off." Then I realized that winter is probably not the same where you live as where I live.
What is the best way to increase the length of the steer tube, in order increase the height (reach) of the handlebars for better riding position?
get a riser stem, e.g. Acor do a range of 25 degree stems, other brands go even steeper
Who won the crankbrother highline7 dropper post? Rooting to have one.
I have the issue with getting numb hands when on a long ride, to the point I can't feel my shifters. This is obviously not perfect but I am not sure which way to alter the handlebars to correct this.
I bought new bars with sweep etc as I thought this would rectify the issue from my flat bars but it seems to be even worse.
Any advice on the problem would be greatly appreciated if someone else has the same issue. I bought new suspension forks, new grips but there is obviously something not right.
Dayv Lonnen, I recommend buying Lee McCormack’s book Dialed to help you set up your bike.
roll your bars. just that one adjustment could fix everything.
revgrips.com/
I set my brakes up the same way (biting close to the bar) and get the same reaction from people lol.
Henry please change your setup it has a lot of echo in the voice
its cos he's in lockdown in his back kitchen
or is it his bathroom ?
Henry - hang a duvet or blanket on wall you are facing as a baffle to kill reverb!!!
@@davidpinnington213 yeh that would do it
I missed some of his words cus of it. But i got most of it.
reference for bar width:
Flow: You wanna ride wider bars for control and stability when flying
Tech: A bit narrower for tighter movements
Rise and backsweep?
Somewhere to start is 15 - 20mm rise and 9 degrees backsweep, and from there you can find your preferences, most people like me stay on that, some find other opinions
Why do high-rise bars exists if you can take up the same hand position with a different stem with a flat bar of equal sweep? Is it stronger?
Also the wider your bars are will help with your breathing, narrow bars restrict the expansion of your chest when breathing,
Your right it's a work in progress.
Hey UA-cam people I wonder if you can help me out? I have a Scott Genius 960 (2019) my dropper remote is damaged and is part of the twinlock set up. Can I get just the dropper lever or do i need to buy the whole thing? 🙏
The best setup is in the book “Dailed” by lee McCormack, he links the the centre of your hand grip in relation to the steerer tube axis, then subsequently the rise linked to an imaginary line from the bottom bracket as a angle from the floor. This defines the reach all according to your hight. This gives you the best centre of gravity compromise between seated and standing attack position. All his information is copyrighted so buy the book it’s not expensive and far cheaper than getting your bike fitted by someone who doesn’t know as much as you
Edit, as Cornishcatus says in the like below, the very basic are on Pinkbike but that doesn’t really give you the full system. In the book it details the different RAD angles for various mtb disciplines XC DH Trail ect and not just the theoretical ideal from the Table illustrated but also the practical way to check because obviously real people aren’t average, they have different portions so you can continue to fine tune. It also defines the reasoning behind stem length, not the usual shorter the better, although 9 times out of ten it is. Remember ever part of the cockpit is inextricably linked, so if you change one dimension it will affect another
The basics are in this article he wrote. www.pinkbike.com/news/lee-mccormacks-guide-to-perfect-bike-set-up.html
My RAAD is at 59 degrees (which is what is recommended), but my RAD is about 50mm too long. I also have short arms, so I assume I'd want even shorter RAD, and I already have a 35mm length stem. Does this likely mean my frame is too large? Will moving a frame size down also decrease my RAAD and require higher rise handlebars/ spacer stack?
Spencer hi do you mean it’s 50mm to long measuring up the RAAD line or horizontal reach? Did you try the pedals on stands and pull the bars up to you arms and shoulders down?
@@robertbradley1133 measuring up the RAD line. I'm about 194 cm tall * 4.47 = 867. My current RAD is somewhere between 910-920. Where can I find info on this pedals on the stands and pull bars into chest test?
Spencer it’s in the book, that’s how you check after using the charts.
Handlebar alignment...i saw a tool, made by Tune, that German engineering co. for lightweigth alu goodness...they have a laser site to replace or fit to the front plate of your stem! Fires a line onto your tyre.
The odd thing was the user can calibrate (i.e. adjust) the laser. Seems a tool that looks to over engineer a problem but then make it worse than ususal by letting user error slip in.
Interesting all the same.
I dont know why such good videos get so less likes?😯😯
I would like to see a Video what everyone should do after a time in terms of mtb maintenance. I just ordered my first bike and i'm already planning on maintaining it 😅. I am very unsure what to do regularly.
Wash your bike.
Lube your chain every major ride.
Grease the bearings every year.
Wash your bike.
Keep the suspension and dropper seals lubricated, every other wash will do.
Wash your bike.
Service the suspension and dropper after a year or so of use.
Wash. Your. Bike.
@@vomErsten thx men 😄. Do you know a good video how to service the dropper?
Good timing on this vid. I’m trying to clean up my cockpit (emtb) and the geometry of my bike vs my body shape is likely a factor. I’m going to experiment with different angles. I want quick access to the dropper lever, brakes, shifter and the mode button(s). I’m getting a new dropper lever (Wolfe) this week.
My hight is 5’9” but my arms are long (6’2’ span). Inseam is 32”. I find that I’m using the back of the seat as i ride uphill and my left index finger starts to cramp. Could dropping my stem hight a few mm help? Also adjusting the brake lever angle?
Speaking of straight and alligned....the calendar on the wall makes my eye twitch :)
What is the name of that app that u use for bike lever measurement? And where can i download it? Is it free to download?
Axel Roy Dandan “angle pro” on iPhone, yes it’s free
Not much planned this year, Henry?
That mic on the shirt is not recording :)
Him talking about how 160 mil rotors may not have enough bite, yet my bikes so cheap it still has rim brakes 😂
That 2020 year planner is looking very empty :(
That actually made me laugh out loud, til I remembered the Kung Flu, now I'm just depressed again
All the green lines are lockdown weeks!
Good video!!!
Great content.
I had no issues with the sound - hey people, stop winging about the echo
It's fine if you're listening with headphones in a quiet environment, not so great on public transport or on speakerphone.
How to do barspin setup for enduro bikes? I saw 50to01, yeti riders and some freeriders do barspin with those bikes? Need some answer 🤙🏾🌲
Drilling through the centre of the star nut is the place to start... Sketchy shit to be fair but people do it.
There's various types of top caps now _(just google "barspin" + "top cap")_ no need to hack stuff apart.
You'll need to re-do you shifting cable/s though.
Where is the time I even cut my straight bar as short as possible and then even fitting barends? How I controlled my bike like that is still a mystery.
Hi there, can i have a question? Is it only one sizě of fork neck end? Iď like to buy a new burgtec enduro 35mm mk2 stem, but i cant find diameter of stem hole from fork side? My fork is old 1 1/8 through hole neck, i know that lot of new forks has 1.5 to 1 1/8 neck reduction, but dont know if it will fit.
Top end where stem goes are all same on modern forks, 1 1/8. 35mm is bar size part of stem
Just remove your stem and measure the outer (!) diameter of your "steerer tube" - that's the number you go shopping with!
I'm aware of three different widths:
- 1 1/8 inch
- 1 1/5 inch and
- Giant's so called _"overdrive/2"_ wich oddly lies somewhere in between.
Make sure what to get before you buy, just go and measure. 👍🏻
Helpful video thanks
Direct mount stem on triple clamp forks fixes issue 1.
Never had a bar with the 'center' markings actually in the center! Always measure.
Greetings from Chile!
Changing anything is going to have a Chain reaction... Domino effect... for better or worse ... small adjustments may be best ? But I am not a pro, I don't know :D
Nice and very informative video, I learned a lot, but please try to fix your microphone.
I don't know how to tell Henry. I left school so I wouldn't have to do anymore homework.
I think Henry’s gone (?) but hoping someone can point me in right direction... have just changed from 12 yr old bike with very narrow bars 58cm on S frame to new setup and larger frame M with 75cm bars. Overall feels like right move except for mega pain and almost RSI in both thumbs but especially shifter thumb. Haven’t been able to ride for days ‘coz of pain and weakness.
Q: where do I start with fixing this? Shorten bars? Increase back sweep? Move controls further inward? Or is it that Ive gone from SLX shifter to Deore which feels really stiff and hard to shift. Hand and thumb fatigue both hands byr mostly right/
Any pointers?
You have a mic, so why not connect it.?
Miss ya Henry. Hope you’re in bike heaven
Like the prof Brian Cox of mountain biking
Are you Douglas Murray's brother?
#askgmbn Henry, a question a bit off from this topic. What mount are you using for your Garmin to keep it on the top tube?
Marcus Peduzzi 76 projects
flater levers are the answers
#AskGMBNTech how do I see which is the best cockpit setup for me, without spending to much money?
Please please can you sort your acoustics out, I do love your videos, getting rid of the eco
Upsweep...was that mentioned🤔
#GMBNTech gloves 100% of the time!