Hey man, like the build you got going on, wish I would’ve saw a lot more like this when I first did my setup. I have a single cab Chevy(94 Stepside) so not too much space to be doing a lot on the inside, but I have four of the skar VD10 D2, running on the jp23 v2, blew them once I got the right alt for my setup But from I’ve learned with these, it is very very different than what you see/hear on the internet, these thing can and will get loud asf in a sealed box. The lows will be the only thing that you may still look for, it’ll shake the hell out of your steering wheel, have the headrests rocking back and forth a some, but you’ll definitely know you’re rocking a sealed box. As far as travel, what it sounds like on the outside; people never believed what was in there, always asking if I have twelves in there because it stills gets deep with nice output but the high notes are where these really shine and output like crazy At well over half a mile a way (at night) people will be able to hear you, in the day maybe a little under half a mile I do agree with the post stating that mdf is preferred, that’s what I used and even with mdf, when you have for of these in a box this long(mine is a little over 60” wide, .7 cu net per sub so 2.8 net total, you can really see the box moving at the lower frequencies, so I would also recommend using something at least as dense as MDF, one more thing, the spacing in the middle of your box looked a little wider than the others (don’t know if it’s just because of the video), but you do want to make sure all of them share an equal amount of space Like I said these things will be and will handle about 600-700 rms, I would go any higher than 700 preferably you should keep it around 600 watts rms apiece, and they’ll take that all day long, really great about their warranties with these as well, considering they aren’t bad on price
I’m in the process of switching to the sundown SLD12, running four of these, have to get one more I heavily debated because of the great output from these, most people not looking for a blow through system, not wanting to cut up there truck(like me) will most likely be satisfied with these, like I said you may only want more low output, but definitely not to say that these are any where near bad For the price the performance is damn near, and I mean absolutely damn near unbeatable, really one of the best “bang for buck” sub you’ll find, and I’m betting to say the best “bang for buck” shallow mount period I’ll let you know how these SLD sundowns do in here if your curious about whether spending 2.5-3x the money is worth it, im taking a leap here with trying out this new system full fledge but based off the specs it just seems like it’ll be the same just at least several db higher across the entire bandwidth(when modeled in WinISD) But I’ve had four of these running for a year, had two running for about a year before that so I’ve become pretty accustomed to them, I hope your build goes great and that you enjoy your new build, Also congrats because you’ll be louder than a lot of people around for a lot less money and still sound pretty clean because of the sealed box.
@@joavinodevine6129 thank you I appreciate the comment. It helped me learn something new about what type of wood to build the best speaker box with this red hill asked for the comments so I can do it correctly and also the space in between the speakers I was thinking about mounting my crossover in between the speakers and believe it or not the whole system is skar audio I think you very much for yo comment.
@@yardboy3000 so I also ran the rp1500 from skar at 2 ohms when I had just two, you’ll notice when switching to a different amp how much the skar amps are missing on low end output, a good affordable option is stinger audio (stinger off-road is the website) Also with the mdf, you wanna go 3/4 of an inch to a full inch for the width
@@joavinodevine6129 OK I will go check that website out I am running the RP 2000 on the 10” they are the VD 10 2 ohms just found out to get that low end bass you had to run with a 4 ohms have you heard that?
@@yardboy3000 don’t believe that, it is true that running at higher ohm loads give you cleaner and more efficient bass Kind of think of the ohm level as control, the higher the ohms, the more control the amp has over the speakers (which leads to harder hitting/more accurate bass), but as you drop the ohm load, the amp’s dampening(how well it controls the subs) goes down as well, this isnt a bad thing necessarily, as long as your amp can handle it and still sounds good Also think about it like this, the lower the frequency you want to hit generally the more inefficient the sub will be, it’ll want to take power to produce those low notes so having it at a lower ohm level grants you additional power
The only real problem I see here is that it doesn't look like there will be enough air volume for four 10's, maybe three. With no air volume, your box is going to be tuned extremely high. If you listen to any hip-hop, rap, or bass music, you will hate that high tuning because you'll miss over half the bass that you want to hear. Going with multiple subs is great, if you have the air space for them, otherwise you'll be very disappointed when someone with one 12 in a proper sized box is louder and cleaner than your four 10's. I'd have to know what vehicle they're going in to make good suggestions for either the box or the subs. I typically like to consider what music will be mostly played, how much space I have to play with, and my desired tuning. I have a Toyota Tacoma, four door. I started with two 8's in truck boxes behind the back seats, hated it, I just couldn't get the low bass out of em in those sealed boxes. My back seat is a 60/40 split seat, so I took out the 40, leaving the 60 which is two seats still, and put in a single 15" sub in a ported box on a 2,000 watt rms amp. Dude, you wanna talk about the get down from downtown, my steering wheel shakes like its a subwoofer, and I only gave up one seat!
@@berthagen387 thank you OK what is this MDf that you are talking about? So I can check it out I am learning as I go. My brother said the same thing you’re not using the right wood plywood is OK but it won’t hold the base
If you use MDF I'd go with 3/4ths thick or 1" thick.. plywood is good for like mids and tweets but for reflection for bass you want MDF! Less flex holds better pressure
A lot of this is actually not true. Yes, mdf is smoother and easier to shape, but realise that its sawdust and glue, pressed together, while plywood is actual wood. Its all about the grade of plywood that you get. You don't want sheathing, which is most commonly used for roof decks and outer walls. Sheathing does have voids and gaps making its use for speakers limited to midrange. Now, if you get cabinet grade plywood, it is more dense, meanin less to no voids or gaps. Its the best wood to use, in my opinion. Really, its all mostly opinion, I've built boxes with chip board, the problem comes when trying to seal it all up. The box I made with chip board had to be fiberglass resined on the inside to seal it and smooth it out for good sound wave flow.
Hey man, like the build you got going on, wish I would’ve saw a lot more like this when I first did my setup. I have a single cab Chevy(94 Stepside) so not too much space to be doing a lot on the inside, but I have four of the skar VD10 D2, running on the jp23 v2, blew them once I got the right alt for my setup
But from I’ve learned with these, it is very very different than what you see/hear on the internet, these thing can and will get loud asf in a sealed box. The lows will be the only thing that you may still look for, it’ll shake the hell out of your steering wheel, have the headrests rocking back and forth a some, but you’ll definitely know you’re rocking a sealed box. As far as travel, what it sounds like on the outside; people never believed what was in there, always asking if I have twelves in there because it stills gets deep with nice output but the high notes are where these really shine and output like crazy
At well over half a mile a way (at night) people will be able to hear you, in the day maybe a little under half a mile
I do agree with the post stating that mdf is preferred, that’s what I used and even with mdf, when you have for of these in a box this long(mine is a little over 60” wide, .7 cu net per sub so 2.8 net total, you can really see the box moving at the lower frequencies, so I would also recommend using something at least as dense as MDF, one more thing, the spacing in the middle of your box looked a little wider than the others (don’t know if it’s just because of the video), but you do want to make sure all of them share an equal amount of space
Like I said these things will be and will handle about 600-700 rms, I would go any higher than 700 preferably you should keep it around 600 watts rms apiece, and they’ll take that all day long, really great about their warranties with these as well, considering they aren’t bad on price
I’m in the process of switching to the sundown SLD12, running four of these, have to get one more
I heavily debated because of the great output from these, most people not looking for a blow through system, not wanting to cut up there truck(like me) will most likely be satisfied with these, like I said you may only want more low output, but definitely not to say that these are any where near bad
For the price the performance is damn near, and I mean absolutely damn near unbeatable, really one of the best “bang for buck” sub you’ll find, and I’m betting to say the best “bang for buck” shallow mount period
I’ll let you know how these SLD sundowns do in here if your curious about whether spending 2.5-3x the money is worth it, im taking a leap here with trying out this new system full fledge but based off the specs it just seems like it’ll be the same just at least several db higher across the entire bandwidth(when modeled in WinISD)
But I’ve had four of these running for a year, had two running for about a year before that so I’ve become pretty accustomed to them, I hope your build goes great and that you enjoy your new build, Also congrats because you’ll be louder than a lot of people around for a lot less money and still sound pretty clean because of the sealed box.
@@joavinodevine6129 thank you I appreciate the comment. It helped me learn something new about what type of wood to build the best speaker box with this red hill asked for the comments so I can do it correctly and also the space in between the speakers I was thinking about mounting my crossover in between the speakers and believe it or not the whole system is skar audio I think you very much for yo comment.
@@yardboy3000 so I also ran the rp1500 from skar at 2 ohms when I had just two, you’ll notice when switching to a different amp how much the skar amps are missing on low end output, a good affordable option is stinger audio (stinger off-road is the website)
Also with the mdf, you wanna go 3/4 of an inch to a full inch for the width
@@joavinodevine6129 OK I will go check that website out I am running the RP 2000 on the 10” they are the VD 10 2 ohms just found out to get that low end bass you had to run with a 4 ohms have you heard that?
@@yardboy3000 don’t believe that, it is true that running at higher ohm loads give you cleaner and more efficient bass
Kind of think of the ohm level as control, the higher the ohms, the more control the amp has over the speakers (which leads to harder hitting/more accurate bass), but as you drop the ohm load, the amp’s dampening(how well it controls the subs) goes down as well, this isnt a bad thing necessarily, as long as your amp can handle it and still sounds good
Also think about it like this, the lower the frequency you want to hit generally the more inefficient the sub will be, it’ll want to take power to produce those low notes so having it at a lower ohm level grants you additional power
Add more that will make em better
Stay tune better improvements coming soon
The only real problem I see here is that it doesn't look like there will be enough air volume for four 10's, maybe three. With no air volume, your box is going to be tuned extremely high. If you listen to any hip-hop, rap, or bass music, you will hate that high tuning because you'll miss over half the bass that you want to hear. Going with multiple subs is great, if you have the air space for them, otherwise you'll be very disappointed when someone with one 12 in a proper sized box is louder and cleaner than your four 10's. I'd have to know what vehicle they're going in to make good suggestions for either the box or the subs. I typically like to consider what music will be mostly played, how much space I have to play with, and my desired tuning. I have a Toyota Tacoma, four door. I started with two 8's in truck boxes behind the back seats, hated it, I just couldn't get the low bass out of em in those sealed boxes. My back seat is a 60/40 split seat, so I took out the 40, leaving the 60 which is two seats still, and put in a single 15" sub in a ported box on a 2,000 watt rms amp. Dude, you wanna talk about the get down from downtown, my steering wheel shakes like its a subwoofer, and I only gave up one seat!
Looks nice but I just am totally against plywood. It's strong but seems not to beat down deep like mdf
@@berthagen387 thank you OK what is this MDf that you are talking about? So I can check it out I am learning as I go. My brother said the same thing you’re not using the right wood plywood is OK but it won’t hold the base
MDF is at home Depot/Lowes
It would make a world of difference in sound and when you paint the rhino..nice and flat
Good choice with the skar mane
@@Cuzzco OK I’ll go check it out. One of my homeboy want me to build him a box for two 12” appreciatethe the information
If you use MDF I'd go with 3/4ths thick or 1" thick.. plywood is good for like mids and tweets but for reflection for bass you want MDF! Less flex holds better pressure
A lot of this is actually not true. Yes, mdf is smoother and easier to shape, but realise that its sawdust and glue, pressed together, while plywood is actual wood. Its all about the grade of plywood that you get. You don't want sheathing, which is most commonly used for roof decks and outer walls. Sheathing does have voids and gaps making its use for speakers limited to midrange. Now, if you get cabinet grade plywood, it is more dense, meanin less to no voids or gaps. Its the best wood to use, in my opinion. Really, its all mostly opinion, I've built boxes with chip board, the problem comes when trying to seal it all up. The box I made with chip board had to be fiberglass resined on the inside to seal it and smooth it out for good sound wave flow.