I did the same with my 6" pellet version but used hot melt glue as it's a bit more forgiving than Araldite. Worked well and also helped prevent the unwanted movement in the grips.
I've been trying to get the right grip off for ages and didn't realise it was a real screw on that side unlike the moulded plastic "screwhead" on the opposite grip. I may have to try this hack to make the grips more solid even though I plan to carve wooden grips from a nice hardwood I found. Super glue and baking soda will recreate an instant hard "resin" that I have used before to fix plastics so I may use this method. I'd done a few other modifications to make my centennial Webley more realistic. Cheers for the info.
What you call a moulded plastic “screwhead” was a real screw on my grips. I filled the insides with black Sugru , which made them feel heavier and properly solid. Later on though,I got a pair of Webley factory hard rubber grips dating from 1919. With a lot of dremmel work and Alaldite-ing in a drilled and tapped steel plate to accept the spring clip on the left grip panel they look the business. I also pressed out and reversed the steel bushes so that I could use a 3mm cheese head screw to hold the right side grip in place and cut off a similar sized screw tip and glued it into the bush on the left side grip to simulate a screw going right through. I Polished the bushes, blued the screws and ‘Bob’s your Uncle’.
There are lots of glues, I like auto-body fiberglass kit 2 part urethane resin, I would mix it with black photocopier toner powder, and get a super hard black filler as ballast in model boats, another glue is called J-B Weld, for a grey metal infused glue you can drill and tap.
Totally agree with comments regarding making things like grips better, it's the whole point of a realistic replica. Do it well or don't fxxking do it at all!
Yep, Wingun are the makers, Webley are the distributors.....Umarex have NOTHING to do with it ! One day we will have a reviewer on UA-cam that does actually know what they are talking about. As for him bigging up AAR, don't make me laugh ! That's another 'shill' reviewer that just says what the manufacturer wants him to say, never gives a bad review on anything, lol. Honesty and integrity are two of the things that he's hoping to get for Christmas......but I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for it Andy, lol.
I think you should make a You Tube video as you seem very knowledgeable. I'd like to see it so if you have already shared on You Tube please send me a link. I am always willing and happy to learn.
@@BBB-qf1cp No point in getting upset about it, we all make mistakes sometimes. It's just that a little research would of led you find out who the real manufacturer of the gun was rather than stating that a completely unconnected company (Umarex) actually make it. Information is knowledge and knowledge is King, Webley are a great company with a tremendous history and you missed the opportunity to expose this in your video when talking about THEIR iconic MKVI revolver replica.
@@ShaunShearman Not upset and no arguments about Webley. The first air pistol I shot was my grandads old Webley Mk1, he called it 'the rabbit gun' but I'm not convinced it ever took a rabbit that wasn't already in a snare... Post war, times were hard.
DON'T use araldite, use something like milliput. It's a two part epoxy putty, far easier to use than a liquid. You can get wooden grip panels for the Webley mkVI if you scour the internet but in truth the originals were Bakelite so black plastic is near enough for a CO2 replica. Also Umarex don't make or distribute the Webley MKVI, they have nothing to do with it, it's made by Wingun for Webley......take a look at your box for details.
Thanks for the advice 'C02 Hangunner' I will try the 2 part epoxy putty, Its available through ScrewFix, it looks similar to a resin mix I used a s a plumbers apprentice in the 80's, but that product was stopped as it contained arsenic.
Don't leave the part-used gas cartridge in after shooting, this causes premature seal wear. Either shoot until the gas runs out (about 80 shots) or remove it when you have finished.
Co2 is temp sensitive, the warmer it is, the better it performs. Every time a shot is fired the cylinder cools so would adding extra plastic act as an insulator preventing the gas cylinder from returning to a better working temp? The thin grips, although cheap and plasticky may serve the purpose of allowing heat transfer from the hand help keep the cylinder at a better working temp, and it's not only the Webley, every CO2 pistol I've handled that has the CO2 located in the grip has relatively lightweight plastic grips, regardless of brand or quality of the pistol...... Just a thought..
I in filled the grips with blutack 99p a packet easily did both grips but l also filled in the huge gaping cavities in the metal handle on the side that you screw in the grip it made so much difference than just doing the inside of the grips l also added a few used pellets for extra weight, and put a strip of cellophane in the grip that screws in to stop any blutack falling into the ci2 chamber and thereby possibly getting into the seal, it added a few ounces to the gun which 9nly makes it better, did you too infill 5he metal handle tang on the opposite side to the grip that comes on and off to insert co2 cartridges, they were deep and long and now filled the handle sounds solid also it stopped any slight movement you often get when the grips loosen slightly, the movements not much but it can be annoying and alarming when it moves in your grip
great vid mate , its the webleys only drawback as far as i can see ,although im no expert , i dont think ill risk it, maybe umarex will take note of videos such as yours and manufacture custom grips for the pistol which lets face it we would all buy . kind regards the carter brothers.
Hello there! Good video! I own this replica and I love it for the realism etc. I did not know that Umarex had it. Mine is the WELL G293. 😮 Not Win gun. Not Umarex. It never gave me problems, until yesterday. Not it leaks all over the place, and I need the valves!! Who can help me, please😮😢😢?? Thanks in advance!!
Could anyone direct me to instructions as to how to change the seal? I've searched and searched ... Since I'm asking for help, I might as well contribute on the subject in this video. You could add even more weight by mixing powdered metal - search Polycraft Iron Powder Cold Cast Filler - to the araldite.
He's thinking of the Enfield .38 grips which were wood. I imagine they wouldnt allow the more authentic ones which have the Webley name in an oval cartouche at the top of the grip probably due to legal reasons? @@anthonysumner730
I did the same with my 6" pellet version but used hot melt glue as it's a bit more forgiving than Araldite. Worked well and also helped prevent the unwanted movement in the grips.
Bloody good tip but they could make after market wood grips for such a nice revolver!
That revolver never had factory wood grips. It had the same design of these plastic grips.
the gun is perfect apart from the hollow handle i can’t believe no other reviewers mentioned it this video and method is a lifesaver cheers
Glad to help 'GoodSirMathew', you seem like your having a great day.
I filled the cavities just with blue tack.works fine Rodge David kidderminster uk
I've been trying to get the right grip off for ages and didn't realise it was a real screw on that side unlike the moulded plastic "screwhead" on the opposite grip. I may have to try this hack to make the grips more solid even though I plan to carve wooden grips from a nice hardwood I found. Super glue and baking soda will recreate an instant hard "resin" that I have used before to fix plastics so I may use this method. I'd done a few other modifications to make my centennial Webley more realistic. Cheers for the info.
Your welcome, cheers for the input.
What you call a moulded plastic “screwhead” was a real screw on my grips. I filled the insides with black Sugru , which made them feel heavier and properly solid. Later on though,I got a pair of Webley factory hard rubber grips dating from 1919. With a lot of dremmel work and Alaldite-ing in a drilled and tapped steel plate to accept the spring clip on the left grip panel they look the business. I also pressed out and reversed the steel bushes so that I could use a 3mm cheese head screw to hold the right side grip in place and cut off a similar sized screw tip and glued it into the bush on the left side grip to simulate a screw going right through. I Polished the bushes, blued the screws and ‘Bob’s your Uncle’.
I was under the impression that Webley & Scott made this gun, not Umarex?
There are lots of glues, I like auto-body fiberglass kit 2 part urethane resin, I would mix it with black photocopier toner powder, and get a super hard black filler as ballast in model boats, another glue is called J-B Weld, for a grey metal infused glue you can drill and tap.
Totally agree with comments regarding making things like grips better, it's the whole point of a realistic replica. Do it well or don't fxxking do it at all!
Sorry to contradict you but this pistol is not an Umarex. It’s made in Taiwan by Win Gun and marketed direct by Webley UK.
Yep, Wingun are the makers, Webley are the distributors.....Umarex have NOTHING to do with it ! One day we will have a reviewer on UA-cam that does actually know what they are talking about. As for him bigging up AAR, don't make me laugh ! That's another 'shill' reviewer that just says what the manufacturer wants him to say, never gives a bad review on anything, lol. Honesty and integrity are two of the things that he's hoping to get for Christmas......but I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for it Andy, lol.
I think you should make a You Tube video as you seem very knowledgeable. I'd like to see it so if you have already shared on You Tube please send me a link. I am always willing and happy to learn.
@@BBB-qf1cp No point in getting upset about it, we all make mistakes sometimes. It's just that a little research would of led you find out who the real manufacturer of the gun was rather than stating that a completely unconnected company (Umarex) actually make it.
Information is knowledge and knowledge is King, Webley are a great company with a tremendous history and you missed the opportunity to expose this in your video when talking about THEIR iconic MKVI revolver replica.
@@ShaunShearman Not upset and no arguments about Webley. The first air pistol I shot was my grandads old Webley Mk1, he called it 'the rabbit gun' but I'm not convinced it ever took a rabbit that wasn't already in a snare... Post war, times were hard.
DON'T use araldite, use something like milliput. It's a two part epoxy putty, far easier to use than a liquid. You can get wooden grip panels for the Webley mkVI if you scour the internet but in truth the originals were Bakelite so black plastic is near enough for a CO2 replica. Also Umarex don't make or distribute the Webley MKVI, they have nothing to do with it, it's made by Wingun for Webley......take a look at your box for details.
Thanks for the advice 'C02 Hangunner' I will try the 2 part epoxy putty, Its available through ScrewFix, it looks similar to a resin mix I used a s a plumbers apprentice in the 80's, but that product was stopped as it contained arsenic.
I used Bluetack. Same affect but not permanent. Plasticine would also work.
I'm also going to Fakalite the grips with Varathane Ultimate Oil-Based Interior Wood Stain in Dark Walnut followed by a Clear Satin Clearcoat.
Don't leave the part-used gas cartridge in after shooting, this causes premature seal wear. Either shoot until the gas runs out (about 80 shots) or remove it when you have finished.
Awesome vid, I’ve been thinking of doing something like this for MY revolvers. Of to the shed I go.
Co2 is temp sensitive, the warmer it is, the better it performs. Every time a shot is fired the cylinder cools so would adding extra plastic act as an insulator preventing the gas cylinder from returning to a better working temp? The thin grips, although cheap and plasticky may serve the purpose of allowing heat transfer from the hand help keep the cylinder at a better working temp, and it's not only the Webley, every CO2 pistol I've handled that has the CO2 located in the grip has relatively lightweight plastic grips, regardless of brand or quality of the pistol...... Just a thought..
surely with this modern 3-D printing, someone will come up with better grips?
Top job Schamp
My biggest gripe with the grips is they tend to move slightly. Theyre never tight. Ive had to loctite the one side (not co2 side) on permanently.
I in filled the grips with blutack 99p a packet easily did both grips but l also filled in the huge gaping cavities in the metal handle on the side that you screw in the grip it made so much difference than just doing the inside of the grips l also added a few used pellets for extra weight, and put a strip of cellophane in the grip that screws in to stop any blutack falling into the ci2 chamber and thereby possibly getting into the seal, it added a few ounces to the gun which 9nly makes it better, did you too infill 5he metal handle tang on the opposite side to the grip that comes on and off to insert co2 cartridges, they were deep and long and now filled the handle sounds solid also it stopped any slight movement you often get when the grips loosen slightly, the movements not much but it can be annoying and alarming when it moves in your grip
great vid mate , its the webleys only drawback as far as i can see ,although im no expert , i dont think ill risk it, maybe umarex will take note of videos such as yours and manufacture custom grips for the pistol which lets face it we would all buy . kind regards the carter brothers.
Umarex don't make this gun they're a German firm, this guns made in Taiwan by WinGun. To Webleys original blueprints
Not Umarex.
You mentioned a few times it is made by umarex..... where exactly does it say that ??... ITS NOT
Super
I want to buy 4" Weebly please tell me process
Hello there! Good video! I own this replica and I love it for the realism etc. I did not know that Umarex had it. Mine is the WELL G293. 😮 Not Win gun. Not Umarex. It never gave me problems, until yesterday. Not it leaks all over the place, and I need the valves!! Who can help me, please😮😢😢?? Thanks in advance!!
Wow super 👌👌👌👌🤗
It's not meant to be wood.
Can you make a video on how to improve the power of this gun
Sorry Rishabh, this gun is already powerful enough for it's fun replica purpose.
you can put gun powder and primer into the shell，and replace the co2 volve by a nail。Then，just fire it。
@@phonelee8207 and burn the ass out of your hand too
Umarex?
2 part metal putty does a better job and is easier to use
Could anyone direct me to instructions as to how to change the seal? I've searched and searched ... Since I'm asking for help, I might as well contribute on the subject in this video. You could add even more weight by mixing powdered metal - search Polycraft Iron Powder Cold Cast Filler - to the araldite.
How much Price this revolver.
you could use a hot glue.
Could have used plastic body filler for models, a lot cheaper!
Onde comprar???
where you buy the gun?
You buy gun at shop
Upgrade ?
🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄🙄
Would it be possible to paint the handles to look like wood.
The originals was plastic.... Bakelite..... not sure why you would want to ruin it with wooden handles
He's thinking of the Enfield .38 grips which were wood. I imagine they wouldnt allow the more authentic ones which have the Webley name in an oval cartouche at the top of the grip probably due to legal reasons? @@anthonysumner730
ITS NOT MADE BY UMAREX
Umarex???... These aren't Umarex!...
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Number mokal
Paraij.Endia.pelij