The 7 element lens in these cameras is astonishing. As soon as I got an Oly 35-SP, I let go of my long held aspiration to acquire a Leica - despite the fixed lens!
i’m personally a big fan of the 35 SP. I think it’s actually quite small, probably because i’m so used to lugging around my Nikon F2. The fixed lens doesn’t make me think about things too hard and the camera being so simple and easy to use helps me be more creative.
Also I have two 35 SPs and i’ve gotten both of them for less than $15 dollars so price wasn’t the issue in my case. So I definitely see how buying one for a couple hundred dollars or more could effect your decision on wether or not the camera is worth it.
I’ve had this camera in my possession for over 10 years. The camera shop told me (back then) it wasn’t going to work because the light meter is broken.. 😱 it’s been sitting on my shelf as a decoration. Going to see if I can get it to work. Thanks for this video, I had no idea where to begin.
Fantastic camera! I think it's a perfect size and focal length.If I want to bring extra lenses I would use one of my slr's instead. What you call guide numbers, are exposure values.
Good review of a great camera. Just a couple of nits to pick. The values shown in the windows and in the viewfinder are EV, exposure values not guide numbers. This was a common system back when. "Guide numbers" refer to flash output and on this camera are set so the flashmatic system works properly. While I agree that the shutter is not the nicest sound, it shouldn't really be compared to a powered shutter like in the Yashica or the Leica's focal plane shutter. The noise it makes is mostly due to the intricate mechanics of the needle capture exposure system which is also why it can operate without batteries unlike the GSN. Anyway, thanks for the review.
Thank you for the explaining how to use the light meter. I was looking around about that to no avail until now. Can't wait to put a battery in to try it out. The lens is fantastically sharp even wide open, focus is buttery, and the focal length is such a sweet spot that being limited to using just this lens is in many ways liberating. The size is great for me - fits well in a fanny pack ; )
Very true. I've sent it back now to its owner. But do miss the sharp lens. I'm now trying out an Olympus Pen D from 1962. It's a half frame camera... Buy uses the same light meter scale number system. Glad my explanation helped .
Looks like a great camera with an excellent lens. I get your point regarding larger size and louder noise. Another excellent thought out review. 👍🏻s up
Thanks. I've had this camera for a few years and never worked out how to use it properly until now. I've taken some nice shots with it just by luck and using auto.
Great video! With it, i learned how to use my 35 SP! Thank you for that! Maybe sometime you could do another video on the spot metering function. Once again, thank you!
Great video mate, I bought one two years ago on a whim, shot one roll of Tmax 400 and was blown away one of my fave vids. Not used it since, until now the film bug is back. Thanks for this content mate awesome work cheers,
Great video, thanks for explaining the exposure mechanism. I think I'll be picking up a near mint one from Japan. I think the prices have increased since this video.
On metering: The SP has two meter circuits, one for a normal wide angle meter and a second for a very narrow spot meter. I shopped on and off for a decade or more, both local shops and on ebay, but I nver found an SP in decent condition which either had no meter functions, or commonly had no working spot meter. A more general problem with the meter is mentioned passingly in the video. It has no "off" switch. The camera is designed to use a long gone mercury cell battery. You saved the battery by keeping the camera in an "everready" case, because "dark" resulted in so much resistance in the circuit that it was almost shut off. That technology was vastly more robust than the batteries available today in a size which would fit the camera. Today's batteries will be consumed in a matter of days if the camera is left open. Another battery option in direct use of the Wein cells; they fit directly, but have a fairly short life once you install them - a few months at most, and they are not cheap.
Yes, a battery switch would have been nice. When I'm using mine with only the bottom half of the 'everready case', I carry a bit of BluTac to stick on the meter window. Works just fine..
@@lornespry An alternative strategy, which works on the Canonette models which have the same "no meter switch" issue, is that their meter is switched off internally if the aperture selector is moved from the :auto" position to any fixed f-stop position. This turns off their meter. That may also apply to the SP, as the technologies were very common between camera makers. I've not had one myself to test. In any event, a modern alkaline battery is a pale thing compared to the capacity of the mercury battery the SP was designed to use. They are at best a compromise, but a necessary one I guess.
Thanks so much, this video helped me identify what my repairman didn't repair... Apparently the spot meter and auto functions don't work at all and the film counter as well... How can someone decent call this honest work...
Nice review! Yeah, I'm open to a real bargain SP, but I still think I'd shoot my RC pretty much all the time--great little camera. I also have the all automatic ECR that someone just gave me. Fun and the same lens. I think if I was really looking for a fast Olympus, I would get another OM-1... just me. Thanks!
Minolta HI Matic F- good lens. Olympus 35 SP- amazing lens (has the reputation of being the greatest fixed rangefinder lens ever manufactured). Wasn’t a hard choice for me.
@@dangerpowers123 It is halfway between the SP and the RC. For me that is optimum. It is quirky, having shutter priority electro-mechanical linkages but that just makes it more of a challenge to use. The less than desirable feature is the aperture ring being tight against the body. This is awkward to move when you are in manual mode. However, I love the camera and was lucky to find one that had a recent service.
@@tuisitala9068 Very late reply to this one, but have you noticed the behaviour of the RD's auto mode when using lower ASA values? Essentially the mask that covers the light meter cell to determine the aperture it selects doesn't cover it at lower ASA values, so you can't use the auto mode with e.g. ASA 50 and SS of 1/500. The light meter is just fully exposed at those values and it won't let you shoot. It means you're limited in shutter speed for slower film. It's a weird design choice, because the lens' max aperture is bright enough that you could use fast shutter speeds like that in bright sunlight with slow film.
This is the only mechanical rangefinder with "dual A" Program mode, but the metering system is quite clumsy that you need to use the Guide No. to get the correct exposure.
"metering system is quite clumsy that you need to use the Guide No" - Well as others have referenced, it isn't a "Guide Number" it's traditionally called the EV number (Exposure Value; used on MANY hand held light meters). GN is traditionally a FLASH related calculation (Flash Bulbs OR Electronic)...
Are there really converters that bring the voltage down? How does that work? I managed to find one of these for €110 with shipping today. My Hi-Matic F is really small and lovely, but I find it limits me because it doesn't have exposure lock!
I used to have one of those but preferred the Canon QL 17 GIII.... However, I have just ordered an "Olympus 35 RD" which may suit you better in terms of size from what you say.
The Olympus is better specced with a full range of shutter speeds. The Canon only goes down to 1/4sec. The Canon lens has some barrel distortion whereas the Olympus doesn't have any. Also the Canon doesn't meter at all in manual.
Simple battery adapters are not lowering voltage unfortunately thus meter won't work correctly There are zink-air batteries with 1.4v that can be used in these old cameras via simple adapters.
it's hard to get one on the cheap. you could get the camera, certainly, but you'd most likely have to have it refurbished which costs money no matter what camera it is.
Sorry my friend. You speak of guide number, referring to the exposure system. But those numbers 3 through 17 are EVs. exposure values. an international standard system. The true guide number (NG) refers only to the flash exposure. Try re-reading some books on photographic technique.
So glad you have put this up, Ive just got one off Ebay but has not come yet, thanks so much for the explanation of how to use the numbers on the lens! do you know where I can buy the battery adapter? also how easy is it to achieve bokeh? thanks again subbed Tim
The adaptor I did find s bit tricky to find... As you want the one that converts an LR44 or SR44 battery from its 1.5v down to the 1.35v the camera needs. In the video I included a screen grab on an eBay listing ..
Well, with a rangefinder, every situation when You have to move a camera from your eye is in some way a denial of the idea of that kind of camera. I assume they couldn't make it to work in semi-auto as well with fully coupled exposure meter. This system is just too slow compared to aperture or shutter priority competition, altough it's the only one which gives exposure lock... without exposure lock;)
yes of course. put tension on left spool by winding film tight after you ve taken 1st exposure then keeping spool tight at same time as pressing release button in on bottom of the camera and wind right hand as if to move on film but the film will not move on. then take second pic. good luck.......
Just got my SP. The focus ring can only be moved from 2.8 to 3.5 ft, does anyone know how this could be fixed? There is no dents or damage on the camera so I am a bit confused.
This type of camera I'd suggest you use on a sunny day. Stop down the lens... Shoot at 5.6 ...F8 ...etc... For precise focused shots it's ok..but..something like an Olympus OM1 or Om2 is better
I've just bought one on Ebay but there's two main things that bother me though, having seen your review. The first is the metering cell is not on the lens, which could be a pain as I regularly use b&w filters. The second is not being able to set it to shutter or aperture priority. Also when in automatic there's no way of telling what shutter speeds have been selected. I think my Canonet QL17 GIII maybe a little better to use and suits my way of working. The only things i would gain with the SP is a slightly sharper lens, an extra shutter speed (1 sec) and a full auto mode (which i'll probably never use). I'll see how it goes when I get it.
Yerr it does sound like the QL17 III is maybe better suited. See how it goes. I found the size a bit too big for me...for a fixed lens Olympus camera... I tend to use the Olympus XA when I want a small range finder fixed lens camera
The 7 element lens in these cameras is astonishing. As soon as I got an Oly 35-SP, I let go of my long held aspiration to acquire a Leica - despite the fixed lens!
i’m personally a big fan of the 35 SP. I think it’s actually quite small, probably because i’m so used to lugging around my Nikon F2. The fixed lens doesn’t make me think about things too hard and the camera being so simple and easy to use helps me be more creative.
Also I have two 35 SPs and i’ve gotten both of them for less than $15 dollars so price wasn’t the issue in my case. So I definitely see how buying one for a couple hundred dollars or more could effect your decision on wether or not the camera is worth it.
I’ve had this camera in my possession for over 10 years. The camera shop told me (back then) it wasn’t going to work because the light meter is broken.. 😱 it’s been sitting on my shelf as a decoration.
Going to see if I can get it to work. Thanks for this video, I had no idea where to begin.
Best of luck
Fantastic camera! I think it's a perfect size and focal length.If I want to bring extra lenses I would use one of my slr's instead. What you call guide numbers, are exposure values.
Totally agree on the focus throw being just right. Also, I think the 42mm is the perfect focal length (for me) if I had to only choose one.
It's a good jack of all trades focal length for sure.
Good review of a great camera. Just a couple of nits to pick. The values shown in the windows and in the viewfinder are EV, exposure values not guide numbers. This was a common system back when. "Guide numbers" refer to flash output and on this camera are set so the flashmatic system works properly.
While I agree that the shutter is not the nicest sound, it shouldn't really be compared to a powered shutter like in the Yashica or the Leica's focal plane shutter. The noise it makes is mostly due to the intricate mechanics of the needle capture exposure system which is also why it can operate without batteries unlike the GSN. Anyway, thanks for the review.
Ah ok.. thanks for sharing. 👍🏻
Timely video for me, just got my SP today and wasn't sure about the settings and how to use the meter.
Thanks, great job look forward to more vids.
Ah brilliant. Thanks
This is a excellent camera with a very sharp lens.
very sharp, cut a couple people in my portraits
Thank you for the explaining how to use the light meter. I was looking around about that to no avail until now. Can't wait to put a battery in to try it out. The lens is fantastically sharp even wide open, focus is buttery, and the focal length is such a sweet spot that being limited to using just this lens is in many ways liberating. The size is great for me - fits well in a fanny pack ; )
Very true. I've sent it back now to its owner. But do miss the sharp lens. I'm now trying out an Olympus Pen D from 1962. It's a half frame camera... Buy uses the same light meter scale number system. Glad my explanation helped .
@@dangerpowers123 I'm looking forward to your review on the Pen D!
I'm glad you did the size comparison with the Electro.
Looks like a great camera with an excellent lens. I get your point regarding larger size and louder noise. Another excellent thought out review. 👍🏻s up
Thank you 👍🏻
Thanks. I've had this camera for a few years and never worked out how to use it properly until now. I've taken some nice shots with it just by luck and using auto.
I had it on loan from a friend.... Be nice to get one again ... I'll have to keep an eye on eBay .
Thank you, glad the video guide helped
@@dangerpowers123 You're welcome. Got mine cheap on ebay from Japan.. bit of a risk but it paid off
500px.com/photo/163957735/Genoa-by-Lee-Saunders
@@leespiderpod brilliant, glad it paid off.
Great video!
With it, i learned how to use my 35 SP!
Thank you for that!
Maybe sometime you could do another video on the spot metering function.
Once again, thank you!
I think to use the spot meter you simply press in and hold the button on the back and it's in spot meter mode....then take the photo.
Great video mate, I bought one two years ago on a whim, shot one roll of Tmax 400 and was blown away one of my fave vids. Not used it since, until now the film bug is back. Thanks for this content mate awesome work cheers,
Thank you
Film Camera Reviews all good mate 📷
wow in-depth review. thank you
Great video, thanks for explaining the exposure mechanism. I think I'll be picking up a near mint one from Japan. I think the prices have increased since this video.
On metering: The SP has two meter circuits, one for a normal wide angle meter and a second for a very narrow spot meter. I shopped on and off for a decade or more, both local shops and on ebay, but I nver found an SP in decent condition which either had no meter functions, or commonly had no working spot meter. A more general problem with the meter is mentioned passingly in the video. It has no "off" switch. The camera is designed to use a long gone mercury cell battery. You saved the battery by keeping the camera in an "everready" case, because "dark" resulted in so much resistance in the circuit that it was almost shut off. That technology was vastly more robust than the batteries available today in a size which would fit the camera. Today's batteries will be consumed in a matter of days if the camera is left open. Another battery option in direct use of the Wein cells; they fit directly, but have a fairly short life once you install them - a few months at most, and they are not cheap.
Thank you, that's great information 👍🏻👍🏻
Yes, a battery switch would have been nice. When I'm using mine with only the bottom half of the 'everready case', I carry a bit of BluTac to stick on the meter window. Works just fine..
@@lornespry An alternative strategy, which works on the Canonette models which have the same "no meter switch" issue, is that their meter is switched off internally if the aperture selector is moved from the :auto" position to any fixed f-stop position. This turns off their meter. That may also apply to the SP, as the technologies were very common between camera makers. I've not had one myself to test. In any event, a modern alkaline battery is a pale thing compared to the capacity of the mercury battery the SP was designed to use. They are at best a compromise, but a necessary one I guess.
Thanks so much, this video helped me identify what my repairman didn't repair... Apparently the spot meter and auto functions don't work at all and the film counter as well... How can someone decent call this honest work...
That's terrible I hope you get a full refund
Very useful and balanced review!
Nice review! Yeah, I'm open to a real bargain SP, but I still think I'd shoot my RC pretty much all the time--great little camera. I also have the all automatic ECR that someone just gave me. Fun and the same lens. I think if I was really looking for a fast Olympus, I would get another OM-1... just me. Thanks!
Minolta HI Matic F- good lens. Olympus 35 SP- amazing lens (has the reputation of being the greatest fixed rangefinder lens ever manufactured). Wasn’t a hard choice for me.
🇯🇵 rangefinders are so awesome🥰
The shutter and aperture rings move together ! To maintain the guide number
Great review and guide.
And of course there is Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII with 1.7 lens. It's pricier, but has a great leans and is compact and light.
Thank you
If you like a quiet shutter then you will love the 35 RD. The shutter is whisper quiet, like a TLR.
Had my eye on the RD for a while...looks great. Is it smaller than the SP?
@@dangerpowers123 It is halfway between the SP and the RC. For me that is optimum. It is quirky, having shutter priority electro-mechanical linkages but that just makes it more of a challenge to use. The less than desirable feature is the aperture ring being tight against the body. This is awkward to move when you are in manual mode. However, I love the camera and was lucky to find one that had a recent service.
@@tuisitala9068 I'll keep an eye out for one on eBay 👍🏻 thanks for the info
@@tuisitala9068 Very late reply to this one, but have you noticed the behaviour of the RD's auto mode when using lower ASA values? Essentially the mask that covers the light meter cell to determine the aperture it selects doesn't cover it at lower ASA values, so you can't use the auto mode with e.g. ASA 50 and SS of 1/500. The light meter is just fully exposed at those values and it won't let you shoot. It means you're limited in shutter speed for slower film. It's a weird design choice, because the lens' max aperture is bright enough that you could use fast shutter speeds like that in bright sunlight with slow film.
This is the only mechanical rangefinder with "dual A" Program mode, but the metering system is quite clumsy that you need to use the Guide No. to get the correct exposure.
Very true.
"metering system is quite clumsy that you need to use the Guide No" - Well as others have referenced, it isn't a "Guide Number" it's traditionally called the EV number
(Exposure Value; used on MANY hand held light meters). GN is traditionally a FLASH related calculation (Flash Bulbs OR Electronic)...
What to do I do if I cant really see that meter line through the camera? Im not sure if it is my eyes or if it has something to do with the camera.
Are there really converters that bring the voltage down? How does that work? I managed to find one of these for €110 with shipping today. My Hi-Matic F is really small and lovely, but I find it limits me because it doesn't have exposure lock!
I used to have one of those but preferred the Canon QL 17 GIII.... However, I have just ordered an "Olympus 35 RD" which may suit you better in terms of size from what you say.
I've been thinking the same
The Olympus is better specced with a full range of shutter speeds. The Canon only goes down to 1/4sec. The Canon lens has some barrel distortion whereas the Olympus doesn't have any. Also the Canon doesn't meter at all in manual.
Ha, you already did. Cheers congrats on the channel
Simple battery adapters are not lowering voltage unfortunately thus meter won't work correctly
There are zink-air batteries with 1.4v that can be used in these old cameras via simple adapters.
I used metal alternative and photos turned out okay for me
@@danieldijo sure, I believe you. negative films have great exposure tolerance.
Love this video, please make many more. Thanks
Thank you 😎
Thank you for this video
g a n g
it's hard to get one on the cheap. you could get the camera, certainly, but you'd most likely have to have it refurbished which costs money no matter what camera it is.
Very true. And the one I used in the video was serviced at some cost
Sorry my friend. You speak of guide number, referring to the exposure system. But those numbers 3 through 17 are EVs. exposure values. an international standard system. The true guide number (NG) refers only to the flash exposure. Try re-reading some books on photographic technique.
So glad you have put this up, Ive just got one off Ebay but has not come yet, thanks so much for the explanation of how to use the numbers on the lens! do you know where I can buy the battery adapter? also how easy is it to achieve bokeh? thanks again subbed Tim
The adaptor I did find s bit tricky to find... As you want the one that converts an LR44 or SR44 battery from its 1.5v down to the 1.35v the camera needs. In the video I included a screen grab on an eBay listing ..
I've updated the link in the description for the eBay listing I found.
Hi This says its for the om1 will that be the same thanks
@@savedpurplecat in the eBay description details though he says all the cameras it will work with. And that includes the 35SP
wonderful
@@dangerpowers123
Well, with a rangefinder, every situation when You have to move a camera from your eye is in some way a denial of the idea of that kind of camera. I assume they couldn't make it to work in semi-auto as well with fully coupled exposure meter. This system is just too slow compared to aperture or shutter priority competition, altough it's the only one which gives exposure lock... without exposure lock;)
Too slow depending on the shooter
getting a cheap one means having to get it serviced etc. which also costs money, so might as well buy a cla'd and fresh one and pay a bit more
Agreed , it's a false economy to buy it cheap really
yo dude!! great video!! cool if i snag a couple clips for my video about affordable 35mm cameras? ill be sure to credit you in the video + desc!
Ok sure...as long as it's fairly short clips... And you wack a link to my channel in your videos description etc.. 👍🏻 thanks for asking first.
@@dangerpowers123 Will do!! Thanks!
You don't need a camera bag for the olympus you probably do need one if you plan to change lenses on the Leica.
Hello sir!! Can i ask some question about that camera?
what do you think about olympus 35sp and canonet ql17 giii ?
Sound level seems pretty low. But then, you're a very soft-spoken person!
wish i could source an original hood for mine
Hi I have a olympus 35 SPn camera which is not in a working condition. Let me know if anyone could help to restore the same.
vs canonet ql17 giii, which one do you prefer?
How’s the lens on the Himatic f?
does this camera work with a shutter release cable? just picked one up and the release cable isnt working
It works for me. only have one type?
Can you take double exposures with this camera?
I'm sorry you can't with the 35SP
yes of course. put tension on left spool by winding film tight after you ve taken 1st exposure then keeping spool tight at same time as pressing release button in on bottom of the camera and wind right hand as if to move on film but the film will not move on. then take second pic. good luck.......
Just got my SP. The focus ring can only be moved from 2.8 to 3.5 ft, does anyone know how this could be fixed? There is no dents or damage on the camera so I am a bit confused.
Does the camera lens correspond to the aperture opening? like does it look right? I would think so that it is repairable.
When in the video do you talk about focusing? I took some pictures and most were blurry so I need help with that.
This type of camera I'd suggest you use on a sunny day. Stop down the lens... Shoot at 5.6 ...F8 ...etc... For precise focused shots it's ok..but..something like an Olympus OM1 or Om2 is better
Film Camera Reviews yeah I just need tips on how to get my pictures focused or how to tell if they’re in focus before you take the pic
@@dallinrogers6626 in the viewfinder you need focus using the lens until in the finder you see the two images line up. E.g the focus patch lines up
Film Camera Reviews there’s two images? I will try that out once I get my camera again. Thank you
@@dallinrogers6626 sure you focus using the tab on the lens and when the two images line up your in focus.
if using battery adapter, so no need calibrate the metering rite?
You should he ok. As the adaptor will drop the voltage and so the camera will then not need calibrating.
How does the guidenumber correlate to EV?
It doesn't, the 'reviewer' mixed up his terms...
As you probably know, GN is for flash calculations & EV refers to existing light measurements.
Sir.meron po ako nyan
I've just bought one on Ebay but there's two main things that bother me though, having seen your review. The first is the metering cell is not on the lens, which could be a pain as I regularly use b&w filters. The second is not being able to set it to shutter or aperture priority. Also when in automatic there's no way of telling what shutter speeds have been selected. I think my Canonet QL17 GIII maybe a little better to use and suits my way of working. The only things i would gain with the SP is a slightly sharper lens, an extra shutter speed (1 sec) and a full auto mode (which i'll probably never use). I'll see how it goes when I get it.
Yerr it does sound like the QL17 III is maybe better suited. See how it goes. I found the size a bit too big for me...for a fixed lens Olympus camera... I tend to use the Olympus XA when I want a small range finder fixed lens camera
What if shutter speeed set in " B" what does it means ?
Bulb