ah I ran into this exact problem 2 winters ago.. after changing the filter with no resolve I checked the flame sensor, cleaned it and that was the problem. Before I lost heat I was completely clueless on how they worked. I couldnt justify paying Emergency after hour rates so I spent hours on UA-cam until I was able to diagnose and fix it myself. It is very rewarding and I'm glad it happen. I'm sure this video will help many people.
Thank you so much! I was playing around with the Ecobee settings and could not get it to work. Then found your video, after many videos, changed my filter, and before trying the reset option I reset the heater in the fuse box. Immediately got warm air after turning it on! Thank you so much.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! My blower motor was stuck blowing cold air. I checked the heat sensor and noticed the connector for it wasn’t making good contact, so I brushed the terminal spade and the wire connector with a wire brush, then also brushed the heat sensor, lightly. Next, I checked and saw that my fan was set to “ON”… I had someone switch it to “AUTO” while I watched the furnace and saw the blower turn off, then the inducer motor turned on… shortly after, the flames came on, then the blower came on again and Voilà! My home is warm 🔥 I really appreciate your video.
Here's a fun one I had to troubleshoot: homeowner installed a smart thermostat without a C-wire (based on what should qualify as false advertising, imo) and when the temp dropped to below -10 F this week, the thermostat's normal attempt to leech power couldn't operate correctly and so it was wrecking the system. I was exasperated to discover this is understood and well-documented behavior by the manufacturer. Switched to a "dumb" programmable thermostat and heat functioned totally normally, no more cold air.
Very important information. I really don’t like working on a/c and have it inspected yearly with a reputable independent company. A/C usually breaks down on the hottest day in the year. Well explained. Thank you for sharing
Great video! It’s not that hard to troubleshoot a furnace. It often tells you what the problem is with flashing code! I’ve avoided 2 service calls in the past year with simple fixes.
? In Canada ur furnace guy told us to leave the tan in on mode all the time in the summer I find this good but in winter when it can get up to-20 having cold air coming out the vents seems unwanted. I can't remember what his reasoning was to leave fan in on position all the time. Do u know why he would suggest to leave it on steady? Ty
I have an issue where the furnace will come on and just immediately blow cold. If I turn off the (nest) and turn it back on, it will work again. I had an HVAC guy come out and we tested everything..jumped out the limit switch etc..nothing. We think it might be the board but when I went to the parts site, a person having my same issue replaced the board and it still did not work. Inducer fan is new...filter is not dirty, there is no water in the pipe. I am literally out of options here. Any thoughts?
My furnace will work fine for awhile, then it will run do its thing and shut down but the blower keeps running until you turn the power off and then it will run fine again for awhile what is causing the blower to continue to run. Now I have had three techs work on it and they just keep telling me nothing they have changed limit switches and tell me it’s ok. Then it does it again I’m really tired of paying and not getting it fixed .. It’s a York Diamond 80. Any help
Those of us in the south don't even have furnaces any more, every house has a heat pump (i.e. that thing with the big fan and a radiator in your side yard). The heat pump does double-duty, cooling inside air in the summer and warming it in the winter. So while this is a furnace video I know there are going to be heat pump setups down in the comments. Heat pumps are a lot less maintenance than a furnace and there are fewer things that can go wrong. If you DO have it set to "heat" and your system is still blowing cold air inside your house, check to make sure the heat pump is running and that the system is not just sat to run in fan-only mode. If the heat pump is running, check for ice in the radiator. It doesn't matter if it's below freezing outside; humidity and ice-cold refrigerant will block up the radiator from time to time and your heat pump will switch to cool-mode if it needs to defrost it. Excess humidity can prevent the heat pump from fully defrosting and prevent YOU from getting warm. Fortunately your system's air handler will have a backup heating element, but this usually doesn't kick in unless you set your thermostat to Em. Heat mode. (Em. is short for Emergency Heat.) Later on, switch back to regular heat mode so your heat pump can take over--it's more energy efficient that the heating element alone.
I'm not a certified HVAC tech but I've done enough of that type work. Sounds like you need to tweek your upstairs registers by closing each one a bit and make sure downstairs registers are all open and not closed. Generally the register runs closer to the furnace should be turned down and the ones further away open more. I see so many people just have all the registers completely open and complain about certain rooms being cooler or cold or complain that they have to turn down the thermostat in the livingroom cause it gets to warm in the livingroom and other close by rooms but cold in other parts of the house. Again register adjustment the cause. Hope this helps you
I have a Bryant a lot like the one shown. Heat exchanger has 3 flame tunes. The glow bar is in 1st tube that lights just fine my problem is flames do not travel down to third tube where flame sensor is. First and second tube are fully lit but furnace eventually goes into lock down.
Sounds like your in shot burners need to be cleaned or flame tunes in your description. Turn off power first and then remove each burner tube. Normally held in place with a 5/16” screws but that can vary. Get a wire brush and clean face of each burner and that slot on either side of burner tube. If they are badly corroded might need to replace them. Reassemble and see if that solves your problems.
HELP! I replaced my filter. I cleaned the flame sensor. And I even put a completely brand new rollout switch on it. It will blow hot, until it reaches my thermostat setting….then it just blows cold air and never stops and never gets hot again. But once I manually shut off power to my furnace, wait like 10 minutes, then turn it back on….it works fine. Somebody told me my entire unit needs replaced. I think that’s just ridiculous and it’s something stupid.
ah I ran into this exact problem 2 winters ago.. after changing the filter with no resolve I checked the flame sensor, cleaned it and that was the problem. Before I lost heat I was completely clueless on how they worked. I couldnt justify paying Emergency after hour rates so I spent hours on UA-cam until I was able to diagnose and fix it myself. It is very rewarding and I'm glad it happen. I'm sure this video will help many people.
M my
This guy really helped me...thank you I done what your video said and my heat is now working
Thank you so much! I was playing around with the Ecobee settings and could not get it to work. Then found your video, after many videos, changed my filter, and before trying the reset option I reset the heater in the fuse box. Immediately got warm air after turning it on! Thank you so much.
THANK YOU SO MUCH! My blower motor was stuck blowing cold air. I checked the heat sensor and noticed the connector for it wasn’t making good contact, so I brushed the terminal spade and the wire connector with a wire brush, then also brushed the heat sensor, lightly. Next, I checked and saw that my fan was set to “ON”… I had someone switch it to “AUTO” while I watched the furnace and saw the blower turn off, then the inducer motor turned on… shortly after, the flames came on, then the blower came on again and Voilà! My home is warm 🔥 I really appreciate your video.
Thanks. This reminded me to check the filter. It wasn't clogged, but needed to be changed.
Here's a fun one I had to troubleshoot: homeowner installed a smart thermostat without a C-wire (based on what should qualify as false advertising, imo) and when the temp dropped to below -10 F this week, the thermostat's normal attempt to leech power couldn't operate correctly and so it was wrecking the system. I was exasperated to discover this is understood and well-documented behavior by the manufacturer. Switched to a "dumb" programmable thermostat and heat functioned totally normally, no more cold air.
I just fixed my furnace by watching your video ❤ thank you
Changing the filter was the solution. Thank you!
Thanks so much, you saved us probably $500!
Very important information. I really don’t like working on a/c and have it inspected yearly with a reputable independent company. A/C usually breaks down on the hottest day in the year. Well explained. Thank you for sharing
Great video! It’s not that hard to troubleshoot a furnace. It often tells you what the problem is with flashing code! I’ve avoided 2 service calls in the past year with simple fixes.
? In Canada ur furnace guy told us to leave the tan in on mode all the time in the summer I find this good but in winter when it can get up to-20 having cold air coming out the vents seems unwanted. I can't remember what his reasoning was to leave fan in on position all the time. Do u know why he would suggest to leave it on steady? Ty
Good to know.
I have an issue where the furnace will come on and just immediately blow cold. If I turn off the (nest) and turn it back on, it will work again. I had an HVAC guy come out and we tested everything..jumped out the limit switch etc..nothing. We think it might be the board but when I went to the parts site, a person having my same issue replaced the board and it still did not work.
Inducer fan is new...filter is not dirty, there is no water in the pipe. I am literally out of options here. Any thoughts?
Can you do videos on heat pumps. What temperature should come out of vents if its 30f outside. 72 on thermostat. Should it be 85f coming out of vents.
I have a york gas furnace 16 years old it took 5 hours to climb 3° this morning is that normal?
Thanks for posting.
Mine is constantly blowing cold air when the furnace is not running and it eventually brings the room temp down. Do you know what can be the reason
Thanks for your helpful.
I know it blows cold air when it shuts off to expel what is left of the heat, is there a way to either stop that or reduce the time it runs cold?
pressure switch inoperative?
My furnace will work fine for awhile, then it will run do its thing and shut down but the blower keeps running until you turn the power off and then it will run fine again for awhile what is causing the blower to continue to run. Now I have had three techs work on it and they just keep telling me nothing they have changed limit switches and tell me it’s ok. Then it does it again I’m really tired of paying and not getting it fixed .. It’s a York Diamond 80. Any help
Thanks for posting!
Thank you, for to sharing your knowledge.
Thank you!
Where do you find the furnace box on the unit? Your video skips to the panel, but doesn’t show where it is located….
Life saver! Thank you!!
Those of us in the south don't even have furnaces any more, every house has a heat pump (i.e. that thing with the big fan and a radiator in your side yard). The heat pump does double-duty, cooling inside air in the summer and warming it in the winter. So while this is a furnace video I know there are going to be heat pump setups down in the comments. Heat pumps are a lot less maintenance than a furnace and there are fewer things that can go wrong. If you DO have it set to "heat" and your system is still blowing cold air inside your house, check to make sure the heat pump is running and that the system is not just sat to run in fan-only mode. If the heat pump is running, check for ice in the radiator. It doesn't matter if it's below freezing outside; humidity and ice-cold refrigerant will block up the radiator from time to time and your heat pump will switch to cool-mode if it needs to defrost it.
Excess humidity can prevent the heat pump from fully defrosting and prevent YOU from getting warm. Fortunately your system's air handler will have a backup heating element, but this usually doesn't kick in unless you set your thermostat to Em. Heat mode. (Em. is short for Emergency Heat.) Later on, switch back to regular heat mode so your heat pump can take over--it's more energy efficient that the heating element alone.
I’m on emergency heat now. I suspect I’ll have to stay on it until the temps get back up closer to 30 degrees.
In a two story house, the upstairs is fine but the downstairs is cold. The same unit heats both. Thoughts?
I'm not a certified HVAC tech but I've done enough of that type work. Sounds like you need to tweek your upstairs registers by closing each one a bit and make sure downstairs registers are all open and not closed. Generally the register runs closer to the furnace should be turned down and the ones further away open more. I see so many people just have all the registers completely open and complain about certain rooms being cooler or cold or complain that they have to turn down the thermostat in the livingroom cause it gets to warm in the livingroom and other close by rooms but cold in other parts of the house. Again register adjustment the cause. Hope this helps you
Great info , how do we get in touch with you .
Where is the flame sensor?
well done.. to the point ..to the solution ....ty kind sir 😇 👍 yes! yez!
Thank you ! ❤️❤️❤️👍👍👍😊😊😊
Could you, by chance, do a video about installing insulation into a wall? I don't have any and I'm very cold
get a can of expandable foam,attach the plastic extension ,place in mouth for 10 seconds of releasing foam ,its fun
I have a Bryant a lot like the one shown. Heat exchanger has 3 flame tunes. The glow bar is in 1st tube that lights just fine my problem is flames do not travel down to third tube where flame sensor is. First and second tube are fully lit but furnace eventually goes into lock down.
Sounds like your in shot burners need to be cleaned or flame tunes in your description. Turn off power first and then remove each burner tube. Normally held in place with a 5/16” screws but that can vary. Get a wire brush and clean face of each burner and that slot on either side of burner tube. If they are badly corroded might need to replace them. Reassemble and see if that solves your problems.
HELP! I replaced my filter. I cleaned the flame sensor. And I even put a completely brand new rollout switch on it. It will blow hot, until it reaches my thermostat setting….then it just blows cold air and never stops and never gets hot again. But once I manually shut off power to my furnace, wait like 10 minutes, then turn it back on….it works fine. Somebody told me my entire unit needs replaced. I think that’s just ridiculous and it’s something stupid.
Is your fan on the On setting.. or is it on auto
Can you do a train furnace specifically?
Thanks for your videos
Why do people turn it to ‘on’ rather than leaving it on ‘auto’? I’ve never understood that.
Some think it allows for more even heating for different floors of the home (upstairs vs basement).
Well explained except in today's furnaces the heat exchanger is sealed and the common Joe cannot inspect it
It could be the government changing your so smart thermostat 😂
I wish you show stuff... like the cracked heat exchanger. The video's good but I'm just staring at this dude's face
You kinda look like Man City footballer Julian Alvarez.
"Ain't got no gas in it."
😂
Thank you !!
Where is the flame sensor?