Great video! I know BRS is pushing hard on the Triton method right now, but could you also do a spotlight on other methods, such as Red Sea and Aquaforest? Many of us have sumps where there just isn't enough space to implement a refugium, and red sea's reef care program looks like a much easier solution to save space. Thanks!
Will you share how you hung the Kessil at 12:36 in the video? I just purchased that light from you with plans of moving to the Triton method, but I have limited space under my tank above the sump. The flex arm from Kessil will not work.
Another fantastic video. I've ordered my Triton method and can't wait to start my new tank. Looking forward to the long term results on the BRS 160. Great work guys!
I work out of town more than I’m home, 16 days gone and 5 home to be exact. I rarely have time for maintenance besides quick water changes and don’t have time to deal with reactors. My wife is able to feed the tank but that’s about it, do you think the Triton method would work for me with dosing pumps to dose the 4 additives assuming I use all the equipment necessary to run the triton method properly?
Does the dosage of core 7, 2 ml/26 gallons, take into account the sump and refugium volume as well ? So if I have a display tank with 140 gallon and my sump+refugium is 55 gallon, should the baseline dosage be around 14 ml?
Can you kindly provide the entire equipment list of BRS 160 ? Setting up my first saltwater tank, 140g, and I am getting the synergy reef TS-44 triton sump.
BulkReefSupplyCom ahh. gotcha. any specific reason you went with RS and have moved away from hw Reefer? isn’t that what you guys were using for a while?
I believe the recommended alk levels for the Triton method is 7-9 dKH. RS Coral Pro normally mixes to 12-13 dKH. I would imagine this was the reason they went with the blue bucket.
Hi how much Triton additives do you dose on the 52 week build now please and do you have to take filter socks or rollermat offline or can you keep them thanks
@@BRStv ok thank you what is the actual reason you have to get rid of a roller mat or filter socks then please and the other one thing is when I send away for Triton test I work my water volume out perfectly but I don't take 10% off for rock displacement should I do that or will they do that thanks
rglewis49 rarely (2-3) times annually I do a 20% WC in my fowlr and my reef. Ample biological, good skimming and efficient refugia have worked great for me. Nitrates typically range 10-20.
Thank you all for the great replies. As a new hobbyist, I am just curious of options. FOWLR is the only way I can keep my aquarium due to the coral and invert. laws here in Hawaii (unless i go diving and pick some corals myself but am only limited to Hawaiian Zoas lol)
So do we know what's in these bottles? I'm curious why they're not classifed as "magic elixirs" like you've done with other bottles of "trace elements" and what not.
+rglewis49 Judging by your reply to the other post you were without a doubt adding either way too much overall when dosing equal parts or simply getting precipitation when you added the alk component. Every single 2, 3 or 4 part supplement causes salinity rise. Every single 2 part system adds the same amount of salinity increase relative to how much calcium/carbonates you add to your tank. Dosing equivalent amounts of carbonate or calcium mass using the BRS diy recipe will add salinity just the same as Core7. It's just a more dilute system so it's easier not to overdose. Don't trash a product simply because you had one go at it and it wasn't dialed in properly. Once you spiked the calcium and mag you needed to reset the levels to normal before starting the Core7 again because all the extra KH you were adding to compensate was just turning into more sand. Hope you consider my suggestions because I think if you got it dialed in you would really be surprised by how stable the levels stay. I would know because I go through a lot of Core7 at exactly equal parts on 4 different tanks and my levels stay perfectly in line.
I've had great success. You need to really have a strong refugium set up because their chemicals also feed the algae in your system. The Triton method follows the basics of the Balling method, which is already an improvement upon any basic two/three part method. Foregoing filter socks is perhaps my favorite part of the method, but overall it works very well when implemented properly. Converting an existing tank to Triton might be rough, but with time and strong enough refugium lighting and flow, it will eventually pay off.
I hope you can help me I'm hoping to start using Triton very soon and when you dos Triton core 7 do you have to do anything other and Triton core 7 four elements each day or is it just every so often a correction when you get your ICP test back and when you dose Triton core 7 as far as I know you dose the same amount each bottle will this keep your calcium and magnesium bang On by just keeping alkalinity at 8 dkh and calcium at 440 ppm and magnesium 1350 roughly that thanks a lot
ok cool thank you is there anything else you have to dose with them for daily or is it just when you have two do slight alterations when ICP test comes back thanks
When considering methods you may want to take in account the availability of the consumables. Would be a shame to start a method and realise that you may not be able to continue it due to it being sold out ~_^
One of the real downsides of Triton Method is the availability of the actual core 7 elements. They can go through weeks without any inventory on any site that carries them.
BulkReefSupplyCom thanks so much for that explanation! It can seem rather complicated with all those different options out there, but I am getting there. 😊
I know you're really in the business of selling things like this, but you also do sell "other method" dosing materials, and it'd really be interesting to see a cost break down of Triton vs "standard" methods. Just doing a quick calculation looks like at 2mL per 26 gallons, looks to be a little less than 2 months for me, which not sure if that is a financially viable path... but then I do need to run numbers a bit more rather than "back of a napkin" calculation.
it is insanely expensive. dont forget to factor in the individual bottles of elements at $32 each and the fact you will still be doing water changes. along with having extra bottles of 1 and 2 laying around because they only sell core7 in kits and the dosing at equal amounts doesnt work.
+reglewis49 Actually the dosing in equal amounts is the entire point of the system. There's a very good reason they only sell them in sets.... if you're running out of one or two core7 bottles faster than the others you are absolutely 100 percent doing it wrong. You need to lower the dose because precipitation is likely occurring. I don't disagree it is expensive, but what in this hobby isn't. The results speak for themselves and that's the point of a hobby like this isn't it? - Enjoying success with your tank
Poisonous Python Im not doing it wrong. I was dosing in equal parts. Alk is stable. Calcium and Mag was climbing. This is a common issue and I was told by Triton to reduce dosing on bottle 1 and 2 and monitor until i get the correct dose. This does two things, I run out of 3a and 3b quicker, and i dont get enough trace from bottles 1 and 2 and have to adjust manually with the small $32 bottles. For me that is the nail in the coffin for the full method. Its advertised to monitor alk and dose others equally. Not to mention the fact that I have to remove water every day to keep salinity stable as it rises with dosing. Daily maintenance is the reason I dont use zeovit. And Ive seen no major difference in growth or color since using. I got the same exact results with brs 3 part and water changes and that is much cheaper.
+rglewis49 You need to dose in a higher flow area or with a slower implement. You absolutely ARE getting precipitation based on your description. It's because of the potency of the product it's really, really easy to get small precipitation on every dose of the alk component due to it's high concentration. If your salinity is climbing that rapidly you have a system that is uptaking more alkalinity than anything I've ever encountered - which it is not. You should not have a measurable daily salinity rise unless you're dosing wayyyy too much core7/system volume daily. Even cranking at full tilt a packed sps tank should only need minor salinity correction weekly at most. I hope you give it another shot because it really is a good system.
Maintaining chaeto refusium is enough. No need to do full Triton. If you don’t have enough space for refusium, then DIY chaeto reactor. Water change is much cheaper and safer. Will you depend on the one Triton test result which is done every two month? Who knows what will happen in those two months? Don’t waste your money to be a beta tester.
I'm pretty sure you do the standard alk & calcium tests like normal, you just do the Triton test every 2-3 months to find out about all the other stuff that you can't test for.
Mike B Yes, normal weekly test and alk and calcium control is basic thing. So if you do the weekly testing and alk cal control when you do the Triton, what’s the difference? Trace elements like Iron and Potassium? There are so many wonderful tank without dosing trace elements like Iron or Potassiim. Triton means no water change and checking trace elements once in two months. If you dose trace elements like Iron or Potassium, there’s always a possibility of over dosing. Routine check once in a two months is too late to find the problem. And you send the sample and get the result after like two weeks? Can you be sure current water status is same as that of two weeks before?
I think the idea is that you're going to get a baseline for how often your tank uses all these elements you can't/aren't testing for. So you're not going to dose something unless you know how much you should dose. That's why they recommend sending in a baseline reading before you start dosing anything, then when you do your next reading you can see how much your tank dropped in 2 months, and dose according to that decrease. Then in 2 more months you see if you need to adjust things again, etc. Chances are your aquarium is not going to have a huge demand change within a 2 month period, so as long as you're keeping on top of things you're not going to overdose unless you have an equipment (or user) malfunction.
Mike B yes, the idea is that we can get a baseline of elements we can’t test for. But there’s a reason why we can’t test those elements. There are no hobby level test kit for those elements because they are not that important. There are Iron, Iodine, Potassium test kit but not many people use them. So my idea is that water change is cheaper, simpler, and safe way to refill trace elements. I just don’t understand why full Triton system is necessary. Many people run their tank successfully without dosing trace elements. Triton method gives you more info about trace elements, but going full Triton is not necessary.
Woa.. how much did Triton pay you guys to jump on they're ship? I'm sure it was a pretty penny. This method is insane and expensive for the average reefer who wants simplicity and trying to keep costs minimal. This is what I thought the BRS team was all about saving money while achieving amazing results.. You absolutely do not need this stuff to cut back on water changes just a good healthy refugium setup w lots of chaeto , good parameters and a sufficient bio filter system. Don't make your system more complicated than it needs to be by sending out samples of water.. that's just crazy.. BRS team is turning into sellouts to big companies.. Zeovit system seemed to be the better way for the 160.. I know I wouldn't want to lose anything switching to a more expensive system.. why fix something thats not broken.
I think the idea is to showcase many different methods and let people choose for themselves. I am keen to try to triton method, if it doesn’t work so well then I will try something else. Sorta like buying a different brand of car to the one you have had for years. Do the research, make a decision and choose for yourself, it helps that these guys test so much to help us make those decision with way better information.
Thanks for covering this method in such detail... Keep them coming!
Unbelievable amount of information... Thanks guys!
Great video cant wait to start this on my next tank
Phenomenal breakdown!
Great video! How often do you have to replace the core 7 bottles ?
Great video! I know BRS is pushing hard on the Triton method right now, but could you also do a spotlight on other methods, such as Red Sea and Aquaforest? Many of us have sumps where there just isn't enough space to implement a refugium, and red sea's reef care program looks like a much easier solution to save space. Thanks!
That giraffe pattern fish at 0:20 is amazing. Looks like a damsel or chromis with crazy color.
What would you recommend using in the refugium as a second algea? Are you only using chaetomorpha?
Will you share how you hung the Kessil at 12:36 in the video? I just purchased that light from you with plans of moving to the Triton method, but I have limited space under my tank above the sump. The flex arm from Kessil will not work.
How high do you guys suggest to hang the kessil h380 from the fuge water?
Another fantastic video. I've ordered my Triton method and can't wait to start my new tank. Looking forward to the long term results on the BRS 160. Great work guys!
I work out of town more than I’m home, 16 days gone and 5 home to be exact. I rarely have time for maintenance besides quick water changes and don’t have time to deal with reactors. My wife is able to feed the tank but that’s about it, do you think the Triton method would work for me with dosing pumps to dose the 4 additives assuming I use all the equipment necessary to run the triton method properly?
Does the dosage of core 7, 2 ml/26 gallons, take into account the sump and refugium volume as well ? So if I have a display tank with 140 gallon and my sump+refugium is 55 gallon, should the baseline dosage be around 14 ml?
if I have no refuge and sump, what suggestion to use in my tank? tks
Can you kindly provide the entire equipment list of BRS 160 ? Setting up my first saltwater tank, 140g, and I am getting the synergy reef TS-44 triton sump.
Do you steel use the UV sterilizer?
just out of curiosity, why’d you guys use the Red Sea blue bucket for the change over instead of the hw Reefer used previously?
BulkReefSupplyCom ahh. gotcha. any specific reason you went with RS and have moved away from hw Reefer? isn’t that what you guys were using for a while?
BulkReefSupplyCom cool. Thanks for the response! you guys rock!
I'm curious as to why you decided to use the Red Sea blue bucket instead of the Red Sea Coral Pro salt.
I believe the recommended alk levels for the Triton method is 7-9 dKH. RS Coral Pro normally mixes to 12-13 dKH. I would imagine this was the reason they went with the blue bucket.
At 2:19 what coral is that thats green with the long tentacles on the left?
Hi how much Triton additives do you dose on the 52 week build now please and do you have to take filter socks or rollermat offline or can you keep them thanks
@@BRStv ok cool thank you if you can that would be a grat help thanks
@@BRStv ok thank you what is the actual reason you have to get rid of a roller mat or filter socks then please and the other one thing is when I send away for Triton test I work my water volume out perfectly but I don't take 10% off for rock displacement should I do that or will they do that thanks
Wich Abyzz Pump are you using in the BRS160?
This looks really interesting. No water changes look really appealing but would you recommend this method for a FOWLR tank?
Christian Viernes I am also interested in use in FOWLR.
good luck with the no water changes. You will still be doing them.
rglewis49 rarely (2-3) times annually I do a 20% WC in my fowlr and my reef. Ample biological, good skimming and efficient refugia have worked great for me. Nitrates typically range 10-20.
2 years no water changes. 0 Nitrates. Stay mad.
Thank you all for the great replies. As a new hobbyist, I am just curious of options. FOWLR is the only way I can keep my aquarium due to the coral and invert. laws here in Hawaii (unless i go diving and pick some corals myself but am only limited to Hawaiian Zoas lol)
So do we know what's in these bottles? I'm curious why they're not classifed as "magic elixirs" like you've done with other bottles of "trace elements" and what not.
it's calcium/alk/mag obviously :)
So you're paying a super premium on part 1: Calcium chloride, part 2: Sodium bicarb, Part 3a: Magnesium sulfate, part 3b: Magnesium chloride?
How would this work with using a calcium reactor?
Can this method be combined with amino acids from zeovit?
Im about to pull Triton off of my tank. Sounds good, too bad it doesnt work as advertised. Most expensive headache Ive ever used on my tank.
+rglewis49 Judging by your reply to the other post you were without a doubt adding either way too much overall when dosing equal parts or simply getting precipitation when you added the alk component. Every single 2, 3 or 4 part supplement causes salinity rise. Every single 2 part system adds the same amount of salinity increase relative to how much calcium/carbonates you add to your tank. Dosing equivalent amounts of carbonate or calcium mass using the BRS diy recipe will add salinity just the same as Core7. It's just a more dilute system so it's easier not to overdose. Don't trash a product simply because you had one go at it and it wasn't dialed in properly. Once you spiked the calcium and mag you needed to reset the levels to normal before starting the Core7 again because all the extra KH you were adding to compensate was just turning into more sand. Hope you consider my suggestions because I think if you got it dialed in you would really be surprised by how stable the levels stay. I would know because I go through a lot of Core7 at exactly equal parts on 4 different tanks and my levels stay perfectly in line.
Water change is vastly more expensive if you are doing them frequently on larger systems.
you can do triton method with your favourite blend of two part + mag
I've had great success. You need to really have a strong refugium set up because their chemicals also feed the algae in your system. The Triton method follows the basics of the Balling method, which is already an improvement upon any basic two/three part method. Foregoing filter socks is perhaps my favorite part of the method, but overall it works very well when implemented properly. Converting an existing tank to Triton might be rough, but with time and strong enough refugium lighting and flow, it will eventually pay off.
I hope you can help me I'm hoping to start using Triton very soon and when you dos Triton core 7 do you have to do anything other and Triton core 7 four elements each day or is it just every so often a correction when you get your ICP test back and when you dose Triton core 7 as far as I know you dose the same amount each bottle will this keep your calcium and magnesium bang On by just keeping alkalinity at 8 dkh and calcium at 440 ppm and magnesium 1350 roughly that thanks a lot
ok cool thank you is there anything else you have to dose with them for daily or is it just when you have two do slight alterations when ICP test comes back thanks
ok cool thank you very much for your hellp 👍
Hi would I be able to run Triton core 7 with an ALR light reactor, provably size 2..cheers johnjo
Thanks
When considering methods you may want to take in account the availability of the consumables. Would be a shame to start a method and realise that you may not be able to continue it due to it being sold out ~_^
One of the real downsides of Triton Method is the availability of the actual core 7 elements. They can go through weeks without any inventory on any site that carries them.
So... if you only have some soft corals in your tank, what do you really need to dose when using the Triton method?? :)
BulkReefSupplyCom thanks so much for that explanation! It can seem rather complicated with all those different options out there, but I am getting there. 😊
I know you're really in the business of selling things like this, but you also do sell "other method" dosing materials, and it'd really be interesting to see a cost break down of Triton vs "standard" methods. Just doing a quick calculation looks like at 2mL per 26 gallons, looks to be a little less than 2 months for me, which not sure if that is a financially viable path... but then I do need to run numbers a bit more rather than "back of a napkin" calculation.
I run my tank at 10 dkh. Is that too high?
No
🤙
In my opinion I think this is way over the top. Put the work in and you will get results.
Looks expensive 😬
it is insanely expensive. dont forget to factor in the individual bottles of elements at $32 each and the fact you will still be doing water changes. along with having extra bottles of 1 and 2 laying around because they only sell core7 in kits and the dosing at equal amounts doesnt work.
+reglewis49 Actually the dosing in equal amounts is the entire point of the system. There's a very good reason they only sell them in sets.... if you're running out of one or two core7 bottles faster than the others you are absolutely 100 percent doing it wrong. You need to lower the dose because precipitation is likely occurring. I don't disagree it is expensive, but what in this hobby isn't. The results speak for themselves and that's the point of a hobby like this isn't it? - Enjoying success with your tank
Poisonous Python Im not doing it wrong. I was dosing in equal parts. Alk is stable. Calcium and Mag was climbing. This is a common issue and I was told by Triton to reduce dosing on bottle 1 and 2 and monitor until i get the correct dose. This does two things, I run out of 3a and 3b quicker, and i dont get enough trace from bottles 1 and 2 and have to adjust manually with the small $32 bottles. For me that is the nail in the coffin for the full method. Its advertised to monitor alk and dose others equally. Not to mention the fact that I have to remove water every day to keep salinity stable as it rises with dosing. Daily maintenance is the reason I dont use zeovit. And Ive seen no major difference in growth or color since using. I got the same exact results with brs 3 part and water changes and that is much cheaper.
+rglewis49 You need to dose in a higher flow area or with a slower implement. You absolutely ARE getting precipitation based on your description. It's because of the potency of the product it's really, really easy to get small precipitation on every dose of the alk component due to it's high concentration. If your salinity is climbing that rapidly you have a system that is uptaking more alkalinity than anything I've ever encountered - which it is not. You should not have a measurable daily salinity rise unless you're dosing wayyyy too much core7/system volume daily. Even cranking at full tilt a packed sps tank should only need minor salinity correction weekly at most. I hope you give it another shot because it really is a good system.
rglewis49 I think you got your dosing wrong. You're supposed to dose equal part of all 4 bottles.
Maintaining chaeto refusium is enough. No need to do full Triton. If you don’t have enough space for refusium, then DIY chaeto reactor. Water change is much cheaper and safer. Will you depend on the one Triton test result which is done every two month? Who knows what will happen in those two months? Don’t waste your money to be a beta tester.
I'm pretty sure you do the standard alk & calcium tests like normal, you just do the Triton test every 2-3 months to find out about all the other stuff that you can't test for.
Mike B Yes, normal weekly test and alk and calcium control is basic thing. So if you do the weekly testing and alk cal control when you do the Triton, what’s the difference? Trace elements like Iron and Potassium? There are so many wonderful tank without dosing trace elements like Iron or Potassiim. Triton means no water change and checking trace elements once in two months. If you dose trace elements like Iron or Potassium, there’s always a possibility of over dosing. Routine check once in a two months is too late to find the problem. And you send the sample and get the result after like two weeks? Can you be sure current water status is same as that of two weeks before?
I think the idea is that you're going to get a baseline for how often your tank uses all these elements you can't/aren't testing for. So you're not going to dose something unless you know how much you should dose. That's why they recommend sending in a baseline reading before you start dosing anything, then when you do your next reading you can see how much your tank dropped in 2 months, and dose according to that decrease. Then in 2 more months you see if you need to adjust things again, etc. Chances are your aquarium is not going to have a huge demand change within a 2 month period, so as long as you're keeping on top of things you're not going to overdose unless you have an equipment (or user) malfunction.
Mike B yes, the idea is that we can get a baseline of elements we can’t test for.
But there’s a reason why we can’t test those elements.
There are no hobby level test kit for those elements because they are not that important.
There are Iron, Iodine, Potassium test kit but not many people use them.
So my idea is that water change is cheaper, simpler, and safe way to refill trace elements.
I just don’t understand why full Triton system is necessary.
Many people run their tank successfully without dosing trace elements. Triton method gives you more info about trace elements, but going full Triton is not necessary.
Possibly... possibly not.
V. V. V v. V v v. V v v. V. V
The beard is weird.
Woa.. how much did Triton pay you guys to jump on they're ship? I'm sure it was a pretty penny. This method is insane and expensive for the average reefer who wants simplicity and trying to keep costs minimal. This is what I thought the BRS team was all about saving money while achieving amazing results.. You absolutely do not need this stuff to cut back on water changes just a good healthy refugium setup w lots of chaeto , good parameters and a sufficient bio filter system. Don't make your system more complicated than it needs to be by sending out samples of water.. that's just crazy.. BRS team is turning into sellouts to big companies.. Zeovit system seemed to be the better way for the 160.. I know I wouldn't want to lose anything switching to a more expensive system.. why fix something thats not broken.
alexrad1985 well said buddy things get complicated when people know more than they should...👍
I think the idea is to showcase many different methods and let people choose for themselves. I am keen to try to triton method, if it doesn’t work so well then I will try something else. Sorta like buying a different brand of car to the one you have had for years. Do the research, make a decision and choose for yourself, it helps that these guys test so much to help us make those decision with way better information.