The Foolproof Way to Install Perfect Cabinet Kicks!
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- This is the easiest most foolproof way to install perfect kick pieces on your kitchen and bathroom cabinets. A process I've learned and practiced for the last 7 years. If you're having any troubles with your cabinet install, please reach out to me in the comments!
My Favourite Pencils:
Staedtler Mars Lumograph B Graphite Art Drawing Pencil
US Amazon Link: amzn.to/3hInitd
CDN Amazon Link: amzn.to/3eqHYUP
If you want to make one of the handy sanding blocks I used in the video: • The Secret Sanding Blo...
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Best Wishes,
Ryan - Навчання та стиль
Bro. This video was perfect! No BS, straight to the point, and easy to follow. Plus, after following your advice, my customers think I've been at this for 20 years. They were impressed, man. Thanks!
Don’t forget to seal that cut edge with some pva or silicon (caulk) to help prevent water ingress when mopping etc
Sounds like extra work. The homeowner will never know. Honest carpenter here.
@@user-gr3xg8sn3twill never know…until their engineered wood kick swells and bubbles the laminate off of it
This popped up in my recommended videos. It is randomly exactly what I need to know for fitting trim around the built in shelf in my very wonky,180 year old, cottage. Thanks!
Governments watching you and wants you to do a perfect job at installing / cutting them kickers.
Thanks you’ve just given me exactly the advice I needed to complete my kitchen properly. 🙌
thanks for these short and to the point vids!
I like how you included a few outtakes at the end. Nice video.
Thank you for posting this. Such simple changes which make it so much better.
Thanks for checking it out mate!
Just discovered your videos. Loved this one, particularly the end. People need to know how hard it can be to not stumble on your words when you're shooting a video. I fully appreciate the struggle, buddy.
Thanks so much for all the great info too. Planning on redoing a bunch of things in my place and want to make sure I'm doing it right. Between your channel and Home Revision DIY, I think I'll do just fine.
Thanks a lot Bryan, I appreciate the kind words:) Best wishes on fixing up your place!
Another goodie!!!! Man, you make me look forward to the weekend when I can catch up on UA-cam vids over coffee!!!! Your content, style, voice, and knowledge are freaking top-notch and fun !!!!!!!! Great job, man! 👍🏽
Dude- I really appreciate the comment! Thanks for the support:)
Just found this channel. love this guy!
Recommended to me at perfect time... thanks
You do these so well, keep it up man!
Wow thanks man this is so much easier
Top guy cheers!
Pro tip! Paint or water seal all the raw wood bottom edges against the flooring to keep it from wicking up moisture when washing the flooring to keep it looking new and from rotting or bubbling out.
Another Great video from you.
Thanks Tim
Nice kicks
Number B, you are a funny carpenter.
Nicely done! Thanks for the tip!!
Thanks Mr. Salad
@@TheFunnyCarpenter 😂 I'll be doing this in a couple weeks...perfect timing!!
Wow that tile looks exactly like the stuff we just put in our laundry room, other than we went with the 2/3’rds overlap. Luckily the tile guy got it flat enough that the kick didn’t need customization.
Sick move...
First!!! I was waiting on it bud!! Thanks for the tip again!!!
Ya buddy! Thanks for the support:)
I always finish open MDF faces with clear varnish to prevent water ingress and delamination.
Mdf will always swell in my opinion. Mdf is absolute trash for kitchen or bathroom applications: wrong product to use
@@bobcharlie7982 pvc molding??
Subbed just cuz you made me laugh!!!😂👍
I do most of my scribing with a cordless planer.. there's a lot of freehand finesse involved with that tool but I scribe countertops cabinet stiles and kicks in with it and it's so damn handy!
I’ve wanted to try that nice little Bosch planer for some time.
So helpful I am about 3 days away from being at this step.
"Save a lot of agony" :-) Exact feeling!
Yep, and always seems to late for most of us.😞
Maybe it goes without saying, but if you are trying to scribe a piece of toe kick for uneven floors, you want the width of the toe kick to be the same width as the distance from the lowest point in the floor to the underside of the cabinet. The shims then raise it to be level with the top of the bottom shelf on all sides. Took me a minute to figure that out.
Thanks for the video. It was definitely helpful in helping figure out how to scribe though.
Caulking FTW!
:) no....!
Great video as always! After I cut the scribe I like to back cut it. Way less sanding....even though I love sanding.
Thanks Brent, how’s your channel going buddy? You still enthusiastic to make the vids?
@@TheFunnyCarpenter It's going alright. I wish I had more time to make more videos but my reno business is busy busy right now. Only so much time in the day!
@@BrentDarlington
I love sanding too, are we sick? ;-)
Freehand on a table saw?
This is a skill I have never ever seen before.
It works well. I like to tilt the blade a bit so there's less sanding. I like to hold the board like a pool cue, just before I start the cut I yell 8 ball corner pocket. LOL!
I push the first 3rd then reposition and pull through the rest. Freehand, for me anyways, is more precise when I'm pulling it back.
Ok, im no carpenter n i clearly didnt know what a kick was, lol. But i do now! Thanz man!
Thanks for checking out the video Gayle:)
Also know as a plinth in other parts of the world (like the UK)😉
Now, how do you scribe those inside stiles when its built in like that?
Those are a bit more tricky, I’ll make vid on those in the future. This was my first install in 6 months so I wanted to get rolling before I started filming! Stay tuned I shot some good footage on how to fit a wood top between 3 walls.
Way off topic, but I need to cut/taper 4x4 timber to fit the contour of rising rock. I'm building timber steps on a slope backfilled with gravel. Any tips on how to scribe the rock incline onto the timber?
Essentially you have to put the timber close and stabilize it in a level position then try to transfer the shape of the rock. Sometimes these tricky scribes are trial and error as you approach the fit. One of those compass pencils for drawing circles can come in handy.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter cool, thanks!
Random question, my sliding closet door is rubbing against the bracket of the other door on one end of the door. How would I fix that? It's scraping off the paint and gouging the door.
I'm not sure I understand exactly what's going on. If you want to shoot me a picture of the problem I might be able to offer better advice. Email is on my about page.
In the UK we have a plastic bead that fits on the bottom of the kickplate so avoids all this..
Interesting
Also stops any moisture distorting the kickboard from mopping/cleaning the floor.
Say has anyone solved installing new baseboard where the sheetrock bows in so one might have to use a lot of caulk to complete? If there is no stud in the wall then you can’t power nail it closer.
You can toe nail some finish nails and/or use construction adhesive and a kicker.
How do you suggest removing that kick board?
Well, now that it's already in he could screw an eye hook into the beveled end and just hook a line on it to pull it out when needed.
Great vid, but this is a sub optimal kick plate to start with. First drop of water will leave these puffed up and shabby. IKEA's are plastic now BTW. I've used PVC which looks good and ages very well wet or dry.
Thanks Dan, these kicks are high density MDF, there fine in most situations except standing water. Do agree pvc is a nice option for bathrooms.
One downside to the plastic IKEA toe kicks is they have insane static charging. Good point about the the problems with fibre board and standing water though.
i usually put clear caulking for that issue
Have you guys seen Tricoya MDF? You can submerge it in a bucket of water and it won't swell, at all. Suitable for exterior use.
Is that a RAS? What would you use now it’s discontinued
Yes it's a Ras. It's such a same they discontinued that tool! other than that tool I would use a belt sander. I have the small little Ryobi Belt sander, it's ok.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Seriously, everyone who does cabinets seems to use it for scribing and you just can't get it or anything similar anymore
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
I like the little porter cable 371 sanders. 2 1/2x14, I think. It looks like an armadillo. It was discontinued and now parts are getting hard to get.
Not sure I'd want to have an exposed MDF edge touching the floor of a kitchen though.
Only do toe kicks on Wednesdays!
🤣🤣
I thought you had a bowl of scissors on your island in your kitchen
me too
You'll need a 32nd. Half a 16th
Quarter of an 1/8:)
Why do you need the bottom of that cabinet to fit perfectly again ?
Because that’s just how I roll
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Because you're not a butcher?
👍🏻🍻🍺🍕
🥩🎉🇨🇦🔥✔️ good times
you need to caulk the bottom so when they mop or spill something it wont rott the baseboard or kick.
Good point,
No. When you spill something, you need to clean it up.
@@SnootchieBootchies27 that's not why you seal the kickboard.
@@jamiehalpin9921 why then? Depending on the flooring, I think it would generally be a bad idea to seal the kick to the floor. Especially if the plumbing ever leaks.
You're not selling it to the floor. You let caulk, or you can use zinser primer, dry, then fit them. The sealant or primer stops the wood rotting when it comes into contact with moisture.
Yet there is still a slight gap.
You aren't level when you scripe you are flush FYI
Lol when it comes to scribing kicks on the cabinets I’ve installed you bet they’re level.
Nice....but your never getting that back out of there
Now try take it out
Unscrew one of the fillers and pop it’s out.
The tiles really shouldn’t be that far out over 2 feet …
Freehand cuts on a table saw is not something anyone should do, let alone suggest anyone else should do. The table saw is dangerous enough when you’re using the fence.
Fair Point Bill. Free hand cutting is an advanced skill.
Free hand without a fence is less dangerous than any cut with a fence, in my opinion. With no fence any kick back will be inconsequential.
‘Number’ B pencil? Really? 🤣
🙃indeed old chap, the letters on a pencil refer to a numeric hardness scale. A pencil with a B on it is widely regarded as a #B. Boom back down off my abnormally tall horse and on with my day🍻.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter sorry old chap, but B is defiantly a letter not a number! ‘Soft leads are graded using the letter 'B' to designate how 'black' the mark they make is. Numbers are then used to indicate the degree of softness - the higher the number the softer the lead and the blacker the mark. For example, a 2B lead is softer than a B lead and will produce a blacker mark.’
@@TheFunnyCarpenter might just be a transatlantic thing, or a ‘convention’ across the pond. I respect that. Just doesn’t seem right old fruit! 😉
@@daniel.s8126 well.. yes it’s a typo but rather an apt one. ‘B’ is not a number so I am defying the reply (hahah. How’s that for an excuse!😂) well spotted. Damn this auto correct 😉
lol, good luck trying to remove that afterwards, way too tight.
32nd, half 16th... ya mean 1/2mm haha, make things easier on yaself pal
too simple, why not make it complicated?