G'day, It's great to see one of your videos pop up. It's always awesome to see how your followers jump in with ideas. It certainly gets you thinking. Me personally, I'll stick to my dual webers on my 63 bug. So thanks for sharing, man. I'm looking forward to more videos. ✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Hey Kevin, the feedback I get from videos like this is priceless. There are so many people watching with invaluable information that I struggle to find in internet searches. Having this channel has definitely made my build better. Good to hear from you! Peace! ✌
It looks like you're getting noise on the cam sensor circuit. Do the cam sensor wires run near your coils? If so, move them away. Are the cam circuit sensor wires twisted? If they aren't, they should be twisted to prevent an inductive current from affecting the signal. If you look at the speed sensor for most vehicles, the wires are a twisted pair just like phone lines or Ethernet cables which are pairs of twisted pairs, but the same concept. The twists prevents induced noise from affecting the signal. You don't have to nerd out on twist specs to make it work but a healthy twisting of the wires will save much drama. I place my wires in a drill with the other end in a vice and twist until I have a few twists per inch but not so many it starts pulling the wires around.
The shielded wire I'm using is twisted as well, so I'm covered there. But even still I might be getting noise. I'm definitely going to try and pick up a oscilloscope so I can verify my signal is clean. Thanks for the ideas.
I run MS3 and a couple of other ecu's.....not sure if yours is specified different but when I lock mine to 10° I have to have my light set at 0° I've enjoyed your videos for a few years and felt welcome enough to your garage to let my keyboard loose :)
Let the keyboard fly! I was curious about that too, that's why I have the 10 and 20 degree markers on the pulley. Seems weather I have my timing gun set to 0 or 10 it is accurate. But now you have me curious. I might need to check it again with another static timing light to be sure. Thanks for the tip. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder I have been watching your videos for years and I love them!! If you lock the timing @ 10 and set your light to 0 then adjust your offset until the 10 deg lines up should get you to the right spot. I think the way you have it set you running 10 deg behind what you want all the time. I bet that has a lot to do with your staring issue as well. I normally run 5-7 deg of timing when cranking. I am running speeduino on several VW's and VR sensors are great but can be a pain they pick up noise. Shielded wire and resistors are both great tips. about a 4.7k ohm across the sensor can filter out a lot of background noise.
I run a ms3 pro evo I had a similar issue make sure your crank and cam sensor wiring is as far away from power wires as possible I moved mine and shielded them fixed it or maybe add in a resistor to the sensor mine needed a 1k resistor to get the correct signal 👍 awesome work!!!!
HN2025Y Mike! I'm in the non electronic school of tuning but is there a reason why you machine those tab on the cam sprocket. What I've learned over the years in automotive industry, manufacturers doesn't spend any effort or dime if the it doesn't help the driveability of the engine. Those things things that you machined are signaling the computer to do something for the cam timing maybe. Maybe the computer one of those tabs is used for cold start or at given rpm it will adjust the injector pulse in relation to valve opening, who knows. Anyway wish you luck to solve your problem.
Happy New Year! Honda uses a totally different trigger setup and my AEM ECU doesn't support it. So I use a very basic 12/1 trigger setup. To do this I have to have only one trigger on the cam. That's why I machine down the other three. If I left them there the engine won't run.
couple things; check your timing modifier by ECT, might be retarding timing in addition to what you pulled out based on coolant temp (or IAT if you have one). on the CMP and CKP make sure they're both shielded (i know, obvious..) and also make sure they do not run alongside your coil and/or injector power. might be picking up EMI from those pulses. check your 5v ref voltage at the sensors and make sure signal return is not going to ground. other than that, maybe a bad ground strap between engine block and chassis or grounding strategy in general. hope something there helps! 👍 and i know this is all probably already been checked, but thought i might put it out there.
These are all good tips, very appreciated. I have multiple theories at this point. Of course before I can chase any of that down I need to resolve the cranking issue. But in my next attempt I'll have a video too. Doing stuff like this in a video really brings in good discussions in the comments. 👍
No it doesn't, it does have VTEC, but that is disabled for now. I can see in the computer that it isn't asking for the VTEC yet, so I'm pretty confident that isn't the culprit here.
@@DougBugBuilder Well, If its twisted most of the way your probably fine. I just went through this with Holley efi.. When things like this start going on it can be hard to troubleshoot, I found noise reduction efforts to be successful. Proper use of ferrites, grounds, shielded wire and good routing practices are more important than ever with this new generation of narrow band electrical componentry. Not like the good old days....
Ive loved your adventure. Ive been watching since the build of the chassis. Happy New Year
Thank you, Happy New Year to you as well!
G'day,
It's great to see one of your videos pop up.
It's always awesome to see how your followers jump in with ideas. It certainly gets you thinking.
Me personally, I'll stick to my dual webers on my 63 bug.
So thanks for sharing, man. I'm looking forward to more videos.
✌️ Peace from Melbourne Australia.
Hey Kevin, the feedback I get from videos like this is priceless. There are so many people watching with invaluable information that I struggle to find in internet searches. Having this channel has definitely made my build better.
Good to hear from you! Peace! ✌
It looks like you're getting noise on the cam sensor circuit. Do the cam sensor wires run near your coils? If so, move them away. Are the cam circuit sensor wires twisted? If they aren't, they should be twisted to prevent an inductive current from affecting the signal.
If you look at the speed sensor for most vehicles, the wires are a twisted pair just like phone lines or Ethernet cables which are pairs of twisted pairs, but the same concept. The twists prevents induced noise from affecting the signal.
You don't have to nerd out on twist specs to make it work but a healthy twisting of the wires will save much drama. I place my wires in a drill with the other end in a vice and twist until I have a few twists per inch but not so many it starts pulling the wires around.
The shielded wire I'm using is twisted as well, so I'm covered there. But even still I might be getting noise. I'm definitely going to try and pick up a oscilloscope so I can verify my signal is clean. Thanks for the ideas.
I run MS3 and a couple of other ecu's.....not sure if yours is specified different but when I lock mine to 10° I have to have my light set at 0°
I've enjoyed your videos for a few years and felt welcome enough to your garage to let my keyboard loose :)
i thought that was strange as well.. i think he was at 20deg by the light. 👍
Let the keyboard fly!
I was curious about that too, that's why I have the 10 and 20 degree markers on the pulley. Seems weather I have my timing gun set to 0 or 10 it is accurate. But now you have me curious. I might need to check it again with another static timing light to be sure. Thanks for the tip. 👍
@@DougBugBuilder I have been watching your videos for years and I love them!! If you lock the timing @ 10 and set your light to 0 then adjust your offset until the 10 deg lines up should get you to the right spot. I think the way you have it set you running 10 deg behind what you want all the time. I bet that has a lot to do with your staring issue as well. I normally run 5-7 deg of timing when cranking. I am running speeduino on several VW's and VR sensors are great but can be a pain they pick up noise. Shielded wire and resistors are both great tips. about a 4.7k ohm across the sensor can filter out a lot of background noise.
@@williamjones1802 Thanks for the Ohms of the resistors. I'm definitely going to pick some up and give that a go.
I run a ms3 pro evo I had a similar issue make sure your crank and cam sensor wiring is as far away from power wires as possible I moved mine and shielded them fixed it or maybe add in a resistor to the sensor mine needed a 1k resistor to get the correct signal 👍 awesome work!!!!
The resistor is interesting, I haven't come across that in my internet hunting. Thanks for the tips.
Been waiting for this video! Happy new year and looking forward to all the videos to come!
Thanks! Happy New Year to you too.
Good to see a new video! Happy New Year!
Happy New Year to you too!
HN2025Y Mike! I'm in the non electronic school of tuning but is there a reason why you machine those tab on the cam sprocket. What I've learned over the years in automotive industry, manufacturers doesn't spend any effort or dime if the it doesn't help the driveability of the engine. Those things things that you machined are signaling the computer to do something for the cam timing maybe. Maybe the computer one of those tabs is used for cold start or at given rpm it will adjust the injector pulse in relation to valve opening, who knows. Anyway wish you luck to solve your problem.
Happy New Year! Honda uses a totally different trigger setup and my AEM ECU doesn't support it. So I use a very basic 12/1 trigger setup. To do this I have to have only one trigger on the cam. That's why I machine down the other three. If I left them there the engine won't run.
couple things; check your timing modifier by ECT, might be retarding timing in addition to what you pulled out based on coolant temp (or IAT if you have one). on the CMP and CKP make sure they're both shielded (i know, obvious..) and also make sure they do not run alongside your coil and/or injector power. might be picking up EMI from those pulses. check your 5v ref voltage at the sensors and make sure signal return is not going to ground. other than that, maybe a bad ground strap between engine block and chassis or grounding strategy in general. hope something there helps! 👍 and i know this is all probably already been checked, but thought i might put it out there.
These are all good tips, very appreciated. I have multiple theories at this point. Of course before I can chase any of that down I need to resolve the cranking issue. But in my next attempt I'll have a video too. Doing stuff like this in a video really brings in good discussions in the comments. 👍
Does it have vvt? i wounder if you need to add the other sensor on the cam gear
No it doesn't, it does have VTEC, but that is disabled for now.
I can see in the computer that it isn't asking for the VTEC yet, so I'm pretty confident that isn't the culprit here.
No help on the tuning issue but enjoy the tech videos. Keep them coming.
Thanks Jim, good to have you here either way. 😁
Twist your sensor wires and add ferrite suppressors. This will cut noise. May not be the issue but good practice.
The shielded cable is twisted, but I suppose I could twist it all the way up to the connector too. Thanks for the tip.
@@DougBugBuilder Well, If its twisted most of the way your probably fine. I just went through this with Holley efi.. When things like this start going on it can be hard to troubleshoot, I found noise reduction efforts to be successful. Proper use of ferrites, grounds, shielded wire and good routing practices are more important than ever with this new generation of narrow band electrical componentry. Not like the good old days....
I would like to watch this but I cant because its automatically dubbed over on youtube with some AI voice. :(