Quite possibly one of the best tutorials on using an airbrush and weathering I've seen, and I watch a lot of UA-cam videos! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us!
There's a well known railroad channel which shows us before and after pictures and nothing about how it was actually done. Thanks for showing us how your weathering was done, even if it means repeating yourself where necessary. Amazing how fast that hour went!
Poor hopper (the one in photo). Quite a good smack to require that thick steel plate to repair side sill. Those cars can spend pretty long time in storage, waiting for next grain shipping season. Depending on surroundings, in the sun, shade etc...they can age differently. Same also with tank cars. I remember a siding queen one that didn´t move in 17 years. Always in storage. Moss and trees can grow on lumber flat cars, not to mention birds nesting. Thanks for the lesson.
After numerous great videos of yours on the topic of airbrushing over the last few years, I finally broke down and ordered one!! Picked up some bargain bin rolling stock from a great local shop to practice on also. Thanks Boomer!
I just want to say thanks for making a range of paints that I had always believed were more trouble than they were worth, more accessible. I've had a about half a dozen or so Tamiya colors that I bought for an Airbrush course I did back in 2017. With everyone saying you can only use the Tamiya Thinners, I barely used them afterwards, as the thinners isn't exactly the cheapest thing here in the UK. So I just stuck with my Vallejo and Citadel paints. I use my own home made thinners and cleaner for airbrushing those, not bought a propriety thinner or cleaner in about 10 years!
Thanks again Boomer, I'm hoping to start painting again this summer. Great tutorial, answered a lot of questions. I've dull coated a car then air brushed it with alcohol. It does that whitening thing rather well. If you do too much spray a bit more clear and it goes away. Your system is sooooo much better because you can control it better.
Great tutorial and commentary! Appreciate the comment “you can do the weathering in stages” after all that is the weathering works in real life. Than you for posting this process!
Hey Boomer Just got a chance now to watch the video. Great work! My favourite part….? The last two minutes when you were giving advice to beginning modellers . Enjoy what you’re doing and have fun. Perfect! Cheers Bob
Boomer, wow, that would have to be the best rolling stock weathering tutorial I have ever watched. You have given so much details and tips, that my brain is now swimming in trying to digest the content. This is one I will have to now watch a few times to get all of it in. Thank you for sharing, I really appreciate your techniques. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Thanks for the Tutorial - I've never seen weathering without an airbrush that compares to weathering with an airbrush. Your time invested in your videos are much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
I wanted to thank you for several reasons. The first being these Canadian hoppers. I grew up in Nebraska, don’t ask me why, other than Nebraska shipped a ton of grain, but we always got those cars coming through the area when I was young. To me they were the most beautiful cars in any train. Then for years in modeling they just disappeared. When you did that first red one on your channel a year or so ago it got me to look for them again. I think I have a train full now😁 But that leads me to my second thank you. I worked for 40 years as a commercial artist, ( I was still in highschool when I got my first clients) but as a result I have this need to create style and I love pretty a lighter touch is always preferred to a heavy one. To me a perfect model railroad is a place you want to get lost in and dream about existing in… just me… so many channels and railroads go so overboard creating these weathered scenes that make you feel like you need a hazmat suit to enter them. Your railroad always feels right. Beautifully detailed, usually just enough weathering to make it feel in place, but still lived and taken care of, that’s important to me. Thank you for showing a different way.
Yeah I couldn't agree more. Subtle is the key for most weathering, along with balance. Some of the weathering I see on YT is really vibrant and like you said - overboard. Looks kinda cool but lacks in realism. Bordering on cartoonish lol
I've been staring at my brushes, compressor, paints, making tape, IPA etc... for way too long. Tonight is the night. You've inspired me once again. I have so much rolling stock in need of weathering that it's somewhat overwhelming. But now is the time. I welcome all the mistakes and trial and error. Would you recommend starting on cheaper, less desirable cars to get my feet wet? or just jump right in? Isn't it funny how modeling prototypes is a metaphor for real life situations, just on a 1:87th scale. Why do I fear it? Why do I let it hold me back? Just so crazy how all these nerdy things we do effect our everyday lives. Thanks Boomer, as always, your are best around. Tug
Start with some cheap cars you might give away. Always have a piece of cardboard or paper handy to practice on while you paint. I always spray to the side to warm up.
Howdy Boomer! Another gem of a tutorial! I know I have mentioned it before, but it is worth mentioning again - your tutorials are so good at breaking down the modeling processes into manageable steps. When I look at the finished product at the beginning I think jeez... I could never do that. But after watching how and why you do each step it all comes together and I think OK... maybe I can do this... I have a very analytical mind and thinking process which makes it kinda easy for me to duplicate what others do, but lack the creativity to come up with stuff on my own. So I think these tutorials help me with that creativity. Very well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
It's like a "snowball" effect. Once you get rolling the creative process grows. Creativity is based on practice and executed through developed muscle memory. I force myself to practice all the time. ;-)
I have recommended your site to many people as it is great. I got out of photography about the time when digital came in and I have a friend that lost all his senior work because the moms could take the student out and take 200 shots and could find one that was "good enough". I'm glad I quit when I did. I had to know how to do all of the things that they do with a computer now. My friend at Chadwick is doing a segment on airbrushing in his next video in 2 weeks and I am going to write him so he can look at this one...
Dumbing down makes your channel the best Boomer! This is one of the best tutorials out there for airbrushing etc. you got me over my fear of using an airbrush way back on Glover Road and now you have reinvigorated my enthusiasm for the tool!
...and yet another super useful video! Thank you Boomer! I saved as a favorite, for both the technique and the super white-faded prototype photo you shown. To answer one of your questions, reflective stripes are mandatory for all cars. They are added by the owner, and are usually cleaned or replaced when the car goes under reparation in any shop. Each strip is standardized, so as their spacing; at the ends of the car, doubling the stripes surface is mandatory (like it is on your red hopper). But again, the only important thing that matters is how much you like your car! (Being French, I love when you show Canadian products with their literal translations from English. :p )
I like watching good weathering presentations. It was a favorite part of my time in HO railroading; I still enjoy pulling out a bland railcar and bringing it to life.
I had a nice, long message of gratitude almost completed, double-tapped the wrong place, and all was gone. I must say, you got me to laugh out loud with your "Here he goes again.....!" line and chuckle. So, before I lose all this message, I'll just say, Boomer, YOU ARE THE BEST!
Dear Boomer, what an awesome shoots. Love the thin paint, try and experiment, fail and try again. Loved the comment you made on social media. Simply true. Cheerio
Tamiya and IPA is truly magic. I did some water wet stain painting, and also tried IPA wet stain painting. I almost don't even know why modelers gloss coat and then use oil paint for weathering. I mean for some things yes, but dang almost no need. The IPA pressure wash makes anomalies I almost feel you could keep. It dries super quick too.
Again a great model, great weathering, that got me thinking to learn airbrushing. Regarding decals, my models are unique in that way there are no decals available. So I use Adobe Illustrator to design the decals I need, and I found a printing service that print them superbly and they are 13 micron waterside. €10 for a A4 size
It's great when you can make your own decals. I just never found the time to do it. Airbrushing is an essential tool if you want to expand your painting doctrine beyond a traditional paint brush. The stuff you can do with fade, etc. when using acrylics is off the charts.
Nice job Boomer... very nice. You are right ... we could never exhaust this hobby, it's one of the greatest hobbies that anyone could ever have. Thanks man!
That’s the best thing about this hobby, I’ve been in it 50 years ( wow, weird to say it) you might finish a model ( track , engines, cars, buildings, scenery? ) and when you do it and get it done to your liking you’re happy with it, great! Might stay that way for years, and then one day you look at it, and your skills get better ( practice) and you say I can do better or I think I’ll try this, whatever, any facet of this hobby lends itself to this, wiring, bench work, painting, detailing, I mean I look at your modeling and think wow! This guy knows his stuff! And you do, I model to the best of my ability, like we all do, but over time you get better at things, there’s still things I shy away from, but if you don’t fail? You don’t learn. I don’t subscribe to a lot of channels, but I look forward to your stuff, you have a knack for keeping it interesting, and teaching at the same time, and as far as air pressure, same here I like mine high, can’t explain it, but I’m comfortable with it, so once again thank you for doing what you do. Best regards, tom
You raise a good point about the learning curve in this hobby. I have a lot of time in the model making genre accumulated over my career as well and you never stop learning or improving. On this layout I go back and retouch things all the time. It is fascinating that way because you become attached to the layout as you perfect your own little world as you say. Cheers. ;-)
On a scale of 9 to 10, I give this 12 stars! I've done minimal airbrushing so far, I have a cheap stater kit (Paasche) and a better quality (Grex) and both have worked flawlessly. I was very hesitant to use airbrushes because I always felt the maintenance would be meticulous and I would never keep or get it clean enough to have a second use as good as the first. But watching your videos, and how you stress the IPA, and how thinning the paint you can't go wrong, I followed that and like I said, they both still work good as new! Always impressed with your craft my friend.
When you convert to IPA as a solvent for acrylic paint (Tamiya) you will never stress cleaning your airbrush again. Just flush it out and put it away. When you go to use it again run some IPA through it again and your done. I only strip my airbrush once a year - if that.
Great show!!! I will take the liberty of adding a bit on decaling... Personally, I use lacquers exclusively (since Model Master enamels are no longer a thing). I mix Minwax clear gloss(way cheaper to buy a quart of that, than model specific clear gloss), roughly 50/50 with generic lacquer thinner, for airbrushing gloss for decals. When ready to place decals, I'll brush on a little Pledge "revive it" (it started out as "Future" floor polish, then it was Pledge "with future shine"). Place decal...dab with paper towel. If the decal is going over any texture (rivets, panel line, etc) then I'll use some micro-sol on it. The (acrylic based) Pledge will fill any tiny voids and prevent silvering. A final clear coat, whether it be gloss, semi-gloss or flat will make any of the residue from the Pledge disappear.
I have used all those older methods in the past when I had a studio. They work great! I don't have the luxury of space anymore so everything is down scaled. Cheers!
Wow, what an awesome tutorial. The way you built up the thinned. paint reminds me of house painting I did. I never used paint right out of the can, I always thinned it first to make it flow better. This just shows what an artist you are. Thanks again Cheers - Donald
Very nicely done! The model turned out great. I really like the other covered hopper at the end of the video. That car has got to be the best I have seen. I used to use weathering chalk all the time. I’m going to have to try airbrushing. Normally the ones I see air brushed have too much paint and almost looks like a repaint on half of the model. Thanks for another great video!
Excellent stuff again, thanks. And I don't even use airbrush... The philosophy, the attitude, just spot on. About graffiti, at least the passenger trains in North America seem to be pretty clean, not so much here in Europe. If I would be a modeller in N.A. hating graffiti, I'd probably go with passenger traffic modeling (mostly).
Yeah. Graffiti is pretty heavy here in my area. They even get to "compound" tank cars etc. I think railroads gave up trying to repaint decades ago. ;-)
Boomer, you make a great point that those of us who weather really don’t know what’s going to happen! I do a lot of weathering for myself and others and it is very true. So hard to say sometimes if a technique is going to work or if the car as a whole is going to turn out.
So true. This is why video tutorials are unpredictable as well. You can't really capture the process on video, at the bench, because as soon as you rehearse and choreograph the process it often ends up as fail. The space is almost sacred and meant to be just you and the model coupled to the experience. Furthermore, when you do commissions, you will almost always produce your worst work (as a seasoned artist I know). When you paint for yourself (no pressure) the model's often turn out awesome. 😁Cheers ~ Boomer.
Very good material, I'n going to have to watch again to make sure that I got certain things. By the way, I have also been adding some of the rust streaks on the seams of modern covered hoppers. but I often use colored pencils, One can apply from heavy to light, and if (when!) I screw up I canuse a bit of water or glass cleaner to clear the error. Another tip, for the modern-era modeler, MicroScale make "Mini Cal" MC-4389 "Data, Reflector Stripes, 4"X 18", Yellow". It's a whole package of the most common size strupes.
Thanks for sharing about the Data Reflector. decals. Colored pencils are awesome for what you describe. I use water-color pencils, and oil, on occasion as well.👍
Thanks! This has always been my approach to french polish finishes in woodwoorking. Sometimes I can put as many as 30 coats on and you can add hints of color as well. Nothing like that deep sheened rubbed look in woodworking.
Reminds me I need a bunch too as CNJ used the same type for captive service between a Glass Bottle plant and a sand mine only a couple model miles from each staging entrance. The cars getting a light sandblasting with every loading cycle made some funky weathering patterns.
I deal with the historical accuracy associated with graffiti on freight cars by modelling a period during which there _was_ *no* graffiti on cars, public buildings, etc. In other words, all the years of my childhood and well into my adult years. I'm a boomer, too, and I prefer to remember and model the railroads when there were still dozens of class 1 roads, cabooses on the ends of trains, type-written train-order flimsies, and five-man crews. It was by no means a golden age, but I understood it and it made sense to me. I _don't_ understand blowing a $100 worth of spray paint (not that it's always paid for) to make "art" on someone-else's (including public) property. I especially don't understand it as some kind of social statement, protest, _cri de cœur_ , or folk art. If I understand any part of it, I see it as a middle finger thrown to no one in particular and therefore to everyone in general. It advances no cause, solves no problems, gives no hope or comfort to anyone. It's just vandalism, and the motives behind it are whatever twisted impulses are behind any such activity. So before _I_ do any railroad modeling, I set the Way-Back machine about fifty years and step into it. As a side benefit, there's no Taylor Swift, Donald Trump, or Elon Musk multiple times a day in the news back then. Wait . . . maybe it _was_ a golden age.
@@boomerdiorama Well, you are correct, of course--it _is_ culture--and people have been graphically marking their surroundings since Neanderthals did so on the walls of their caves. "I was here," their hand prints seem to say. God _is_ here the frescoes of the Renaissance say. But a swastika is culture, too, as is the hammer and sickle, the Jolly Roger, and the grim-reaper emblem of the Cartel del Diablo. I like happy symbols on my railroad: the feather emblem of the Western Pacific RR, Rocky the Goat of the Great Northern, and the lovely dogwood blossom of the British Columbia Railway. 😉
@@tcarney57 If a modeler builds a German (Historical) aircraft with a Swastika on the tail (like a JU-87) I am just fine with it. Who am I to arbitrate what a particular artist puts on their canvas? I believe in modeling your own world as you see it and respecting free speech. 😁
Please keep doing what you're doing! I'm just getting back into the hobby so I am just starting to watch your videos, and the nuggets of info you throw out for new folks and more experienced as well are priceless. Thanks for 'lifting the veil' on how to make such realistic models...you're helping many of us get a lot more enjoyment out of this hobby.
I’m glad to see you making a really detailed model of this particular wagon. And by the way, I know that just about all railroad vehicles are known as cars, but as an Englishman, I know them as carriages for people and wagons for freight.
Wow! During my learning journey I've watched way too many modeling videos and never heard the reason (beyond air underneath) why decals silver! The gloss coat smooths the paint surface--- thank you for this and all your other tips!
Another great video✌️👍💜😊 I like what you said about taking risks, happy accidents I call 'mistakes' etc. I've been lucky enough to have my work published - people have been very kind about my weathering and the use of new techniques. I've often been asked to teach people or describe in even greater detail how I do it (outside of what I've written for articles) and I say 'I can't, I don't know how I do it, it's different every time'. I like to share techniques, but still I've been accused of being elitist or keeping trade secrets, it's not that at all. Also I've been told I'm too amateur if I do it differently each time. However the way you've stated it, is exactly how I work, I'm always bouncing boundaries and making mistakes 'happy accidents'. It's a risk but it's how I up my game, learn, it's not always fun when things go wrong, but one learns from it, turns it around. Sometimes paints play up - I've even had masking tape affect certain paint types (these days I use Tamiya tape for modelling). I mainly use water based acrylics with Ultimate thinners, and/or others' wetting agents. I use cheap IPA to clean the airbrush. My favourite paints used to be Airfix, sadly, NLA, then Humbrol. But due to health and working indoors I use WB acrylics with a small booth and/or a mask (acrylics become plasticised). If I use solvents for limited use I use low/zero odour thinners but one still has to be careful. I hardly use rattle cans nowadays for modelling. WB acrylic lacquer/varnishes can be a chore though. I wish I had more time for modelling, to watch more of your wonderful videos, sadly I don't. But your work inspires me to do the little that I do at this time. I tend to work at 15-25 psi these days too - no issues encountered if paint is thinned well🙏🤞✌️👍😊💜 BTW your cheap airbrush? Reminds me of a Paasche in many ways. I've two workhorse Paasche, a H (only ever clogged that once trying artists acrylic paint, I'd thinned it well but the particulates must have been larger and it needed thinning more, it became like plastic fast too - yuk!), and a Millennium. I've also three H&S airbrushes - superb. Two Sparmax for large scale RC models (both are trigger type) and a cheap GHAD39 by Galleeri (£30 to see what all the hype is about). I don't want to spend hours cleaning airbrushes (H&S are easiest to strip or partially strip and clean - closely followed by the two Paasche). I hope my little essay may help other viewers 🙏🤞✌️👍💜😊 P.S Dusty is great💜💜
I used to love Humbrol paints growing up. In fact, I still have a few "favorite" colors of Humbrol unopened in my paint drawer. I welcome mistakes' and cheap airbrushes all the time. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Yes I've still got 40 year old Humbrol paints, still useable too😊👍 Mistakes are learning, giving too, aren't they. However I get miffed if I make silly repeated mistakes😲💔🙄😀
Just a couple of days ago i found your channel. I like your Layout and The Videos are quite inspiring,... thanks a lot Keep having fun! Greetings from Germany❤
GREAT! I have that exact car in N Scale. I have others too. I'm posting this compliment in advance as I'll watch this video in it's entirety later today but I also wanted to thank you for inspiring me to add even more detail to my locomotives, which look great if you ask me. Thank you again for what you do.
Great vid! That patched "C" is pretty unique about your prototype photo if you ever revisit this car. Your flatcar from the Jersey barrier video is really good too. I looked hard at my stock after that vid for sure. I'm about to dive into airbrushing. I took Adam Savage's tool advice to get cheap everything to start and then buy the most expensive I can afford once my skills outgrow them. 👍 thanks!
Great tips. using scrap plastic to check thinned paint. I know varying the umber it's not as critical but to match a color of a previously painted model that's a great tool. Varying the spring tension on the airbrush is a great tip as well. It helps to comprehend the learning curve of the airbrush. Made my life easier. All new to me. You teach like we are all there at at the bench with you in person. Thanks Brother!
Post script. I took photos of a friend's model years ago ( military) and to show his subtle weathering I found a dark blue sheet that I covered the table with for a backdrop. It made the subtle painting and weathering pop on a digital shot. You may know this already from your former work. Just something that works for me.
Thank you putting in so much effort to bring us these videos. I am deliberating buying an airbrush as I love weathering but dry brushing and chalks is a little limited. An airbrush will bring it up a level.
Awesome! I never considered thinning the paint as much as you use in weathering. I must try this technique in using one of your key words. Layering! Thank you for taking the time to show less experienced modelers, like myself.
Good realistic weathering, like it alot. I thought your airbrush in this video was a 'suction feed'. Because all my 'gravity feed' airbrushes have the paint cup on top ! Anyways, Vallejo paint, you mention a few video's back, that you wasn't keen on the way they sprayed at low psi. (Me too). I was informed can be sprayed around 30psi + to flow good. Im still not keen, but maybe helpful to you. Great video. Thanks.
I'm going to have a try createx. For the quantity in the bottle, it roughly the same as Tamiya cost here. If Createx is as versatile as Tamiya it will be good. @@boomerdiorama
You expand my thinking and you nurture my courage. Thanks for the very helpful video. And........... "Hello" to Dusty! (with a light scratch behind each ear).
Yes, eventually. Sometimes I don't if I plan to change the wheel sets after painting. I tend to migrate semi-scale wheel sets into the trucks later on. 😁
Personally, I have never customised a railway vehicle of any kind. I have a light weathering done by a professional weatherer so that my layout just runs well and looks great!!
Great tutorial - I'm learning a huge amount from this video, especially on pressures to use. One question - do you thin X22 and XF86 the same way you do with the pigments?
Howdy Boomer. I loaded up a new video on UA-cam of my scratch built grain elevator. I gave you props or a recommendation for viewers to mosey on over to you channel. You Jive? Yehaw!
Another fantastic video tutorial. Do you pre-coat your models before weathering with Tamiya? Many people like to use Testors Dullcote before applying any paint. Thank you!
I usually pre-fade with Tamiya white or beige before I apply any subsequent weathering, washes, etc. The paint is so thin, almost like "tinted" IPA for the pre-shade. When it goes on it just looks wet until it drys - then it looks faded equally all around regardless of the color. 😁
Looks very neat, not neat, dirty, LOL DO YOU EVER USE WEATHERING POWDERS ON ROLLING STOCK OR FOR ANYTHING??? Do they have a place, like one being better than another or is it a preference? Thanks for sharing/educating us. Ron
I don't like loose media on my models so I don't normally use powders or chalks. Sometime I will use dry pigments though. But I activate them with solvent to bind them to the model.
Not really. But then it all depends on how I feel at the time. If I want to paint larger model surfaces I tend to use my Pasche with the bigger cup. If I plan to paint a "contest" model then maybe I up the game a little. At the end of the day you have to go with what you have confidence with and confidence comes with practice. The more practice, the less you believe in overhyped airbrushes and black magic. It's just practicing with thin paint at the end of the day. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama You are the best with your quick response time 🙌. I understand you going with your intuition. So it depends rather on the cup size of the airbrush than on different tips and needls with maybe wider strokes? Being a beginner in airbrushing I just realized that with my Omni 5000 I have to go further away from the model in order to get more surface coverage, which then distributes the particles quite a bit in the room. That's why I was wondering, if there is any rules with the different airbrushes. :)
I’m trying my best not to buy an airbrush…. Can you get the same vibe using acrylic paint & paint brushes only? Also do you recommend a specific sealer?
You can achieve remarkable results with a traditional paint brush and acrylics as I have demonstrated in numerous videos. You can also use the Vallejo Flat, Satin, and Glossy (Acrylic) varnishes with a traditional brush as well. I do it all the time. On the other hand, you cannot achieve the same look of an airbrush when it comes to blending super thin layers and with greater depth. An airbrush is an asset to any modler who wishes to climb the paint learning curve. Don't let fear win and dive in all the way. Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
Boomer, a friend told me that if I use isopropyl alcohol in an airbrush, that I will destroy the seals. Is there anything to that? Is it true of some airbrushes, but not of others?
Lol . . . That's a myth. Most of all the airbrushes I use on the channel shoot IPA for over twenty years (on a routine basis) not a hobby basis. I'm an old pro but I guess that means nothing in the face of social media opinion these days. I have never replaced a seal yet. Although, I have I have replace rubber seals when I use other corrosive solvents. He probably rarely uses the airbrush anyway (compared to me), which explains why they dry out. IPA has nothing to do with it. If you don't use it you will lose it. Cheers.
The biggest problem I find, with social media, is how many “teachers” are out there. There is so much bad information out there, because everybody and their mother, wants to make instructional based videos, when they haven’t put in the reps. You wouldn’t hire a plumber, to teach high school English, just because he speaks English lol. Maybe not the greatest analogy, but I think I’m getting my point across.
I agree. Not to mention the severe A.D.D. induced opinion which can only hear sound bytes out of context. Smart students figure out what is authentic and good doctrine in the end. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama 100%. They’ll hear a snippet of something, from someone who shouldn’t be educating to begin with, and then preach it, out of context. I’ve successfully broken so many “rules”, by experimenting and seeing what happens 🤷♂️
I think it is perfectly valid to remove the Nigerian Manure tagging from your own people's creations such as Railway cars. More of a what might of been had we remained a free people...
@TheBelrick: The problem of graffiti isn't caused by a lack of freedom, it's caused by an _excess_ of freedom, and a confusion between freedom and _license_ (a problem which, by the way, knows no racial or national distinction).
Quite possibly one of the best tutorials on using an airbrush and weathering I've seen, and I watch a lot of UA-cam videos! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge and expertise with us!
Wow, thanks!
There's a well known railroad channel which shows us before and after pictures and nothing about how it was actually done. Thanks for showing us how your weathering was done, even if it means repeating yourself where necessary.
Amazing how fast that hour went!
Thanks for this! Great information on weathering with IPA. Makes trying spray painting (again) less scary!!!
You are welcome. ;-)
Wow. That hour sure passed by quickly. THANK YOU for showing us how it's done!
Thanks for watching!👍
Poor hopper (the one in photo). Quite a good smack to require that thick steel plate to repair side sill.
Those cars can spend pretty long time in storage, waiting for next grain shipping season. Depending on surroundings, in the sun, shade etc...they can age differently. Same also with tank cars. I remember a siding queen one that didn´t move in 17 years. Always in storage. Moss and trees can grow on lumber flat cars, not to mention birds nesting.
Thanks for the lesson.
Yes indeed. I need to plant grass on one of my flat cars. ;-)
It will be cooler with an HO Boomer mowing it and somewhere, that lovely Dusty 😊😊
After numerous great videos of yours on the topic of airbrushing over the last few years, I finally broke down and ordered one!! Picked up some bargain bin rolling stock from a great local shop to practice on also. Thanks Boomer!
Have fun, Use lot's of IPA to wash away what you don't initially like. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama thanks for the reminder I gotta pick up probably a couple gallons 😂.
I just want to say thanks for making a range of paints that I had always believed were more trouble than they were worth, more accessible. I've had a about half a dozen or so Tamiya colors that I bought for an Airbrush course I did back in 2017. With everyone saying you can only use the Tamiya Thinners, I barely used them afterwards, as the thinners isn't exactly the cheapest thing here in the UK. So I just stuck with my Vallejo and Citadel paints. I use my own home made thinners and cleaner for airbrushing those, not bought a propriety thinner or cleaner in about 10 years!
IPA - Isopropyl Alcohol is cheap - cheap. I use it to thin Yamiya all the time. I only use the Tamiya Acrylic thinner for clear coats.
I know right, and it clearly works, your whole layout is proof to that, so thanks again for the eye opener
Thanks again Boomer, I'm hoping to start painting again this summer. Great tutorial, answered a lot of questions.
I've dull coated a car then air brushed it with alcohol. It does that whitening thing rather well. If you do too much spray a bit more clear and it goes away. Your system is sooooo much better because you can control it better.
Sometimes I don't bother clear coating. It depends how much I handle the model. ;-)
Thank goodness UA-cam lets me change the playback speed so I could plow through this faster.
Nice option for sure. ;-)
Love your videos. The detail you model is incredible. Please keep the amazing videos coming.
There are over six hundred videos now on the home page free to view. 😉
Great tutorial and commentary! Appreciate the comment “you can do the weathering in stages” after all that is the weathering works in real life. Than you for posting this process!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Boomer
Just got a chance now to watch the video.
Great work!
My favourite part….? The last two minutes when you were giving advice to beginning modellers .
Enjoy what you’re doing and have fun. Perfect!
Cheers
Bob
Thank you.
Boomer, wow, that would have to be the best rolling stock weathering tutorial I have ever watched.
You have given so much details and tips, that my brain is now swimming in trying to digest the content. This is one I will have to now watch a few times to get all of it in.
Thank you for sharing, I really appreciate your techniques. Cheers, and stay safe, Michael
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the Tutorial - I've never seen weathering without an airbrush that compares to weathering with an airbrush. Your time invested in your videos are much appreciated!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for watching!
I wanted to thank you for several reasons. The first being these Canadian hoppers. I grew up in Nebraska, don’t ask me why, other than Nebraska shipped a ton of grain, but we always got those cars coming through the area when I was young. To me they were the most beautiful cars in any train. Then for years in modeling they just disappeared. When you did that first red one on your channel a year or so ago it got me to look for them again. I think I have a train full now😁
But that leads me to my second thank you. I worked for 40 years as a commercial artist, ( I was still in highschool when I got my first clients) but as a result I have this need to create style and I love pretty a lighter touch is always preferred to a heavy one. To me a perfect model railroad is a place you want to get lost in and dream about existing in… just me… so many channels and railroads go so overboard creating these weathered scenes that make you feel like you need a hazmat suit to enter them. Your railroad always feels right. Beautifully detailed, usually just enough weathering to make it feel in place, but still lived and taken care of, that’s important to me. Thank you for showing a different way.
I heard from a little bird that Intermountain will be releasing another run of these soon. ;-)
Yeah I couldn't agree more. Subtle is the key for most weathering, along with balance. Some of the weathering I see on YT is really vibrant and like you said - overboard. Looks kinda cool but lacks in realism. Bordering on cartoonish lol
I've been staring at my brushes, compressor, paints, making tape, IPA etc... for way too long. Tonight is the night. You've inspired me once again. I have so much rolling stock in need of weathering that it's somewhat overwhelming. But now is the time. I welcome all the mistakes and trial and error. Would you recommend starting on cheaper, less desirable cars to get my feet wet? or just jump right in? Isn't it funny how modeling prototypes is a metaphor for real life situations, just on a 1:87th scale. Why do I fear it? Why do I let it hold me back? Just so crazy how all these nerdy things we do effect our everyday lives. Thanks Boomer, as always, your are best around. Tug
Start with some cheap cars you might give away. Always have a piece of cardboard or paper handy to practice on while you paint. I always spray to the side to warm up.
EXCELLENT!
Great tutorial, Boomer. I wish I'd started using an airbrush 50 years ago.
Start now. Never to late. It easier than you think. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama yeah, but having only one eye hampers my abilities now. I'm doing well to do anything close up...
Howdy Boomer! Another gem of a tutorial! I know I have mentioned it before, but it is worth mentioning again - your tutorials are so good at breaking down the modeling processes into manageable steps. When I look at the finished product at the beginning I think jeez... I could never do that. But after watching how and why you do each step it all comes together and I think OK... maybe I can do this... I have a very analytical mind and thinking process which makes it kinda easy for me to duplicate what others do, but lack the creativity to come up with stuff on my own. So I think these tutorials help me with that creativity. Very well done and thanks for sharing 🤠
It's like a "snowball" effect. Once you get rolling the creative process grows. Creativity is based on practice and executed through developed muscle memory. I force myself to practice all the time. ;-)
I have recommended your site to many people as it is great. I got out of photography about the time when digital came in and I have a friend that lost all his senior work because the moms could take the student out and take 200 shots and could find one that was "good enough". I'm glad I quit when I did. I had to know how to do all of the things that they do with a computer now. My friend at Chadwick is doing a segment on airbrushing in his next video in 2 weeks and I am going to write him so he can look at this one...
Thank you!
Dumbing down makes your channel the best Boomer! This is one of the best tutorials out there for airbrushing etc. you got me over my fear of using an airbrush way back on Glover Road and now you have reinvigorated my enthusiasm for the tool!
It's a powerful tool in the hands of any modeler who is willing!
...and yet another super useful video! Thank you Boomer! I saved as a favorite, for both the technique and the super white-faded prototype photo you shown.
To answer one of your questions, reflective stripes are mandatory for all cars. They are added by the owner, and are usually cleaned or replaced when the car goes under reparation in any shop. Each strip is standardized, so as their spacing; at the ends of the car, doubling the stripes surface is mandatory (like it is on your red hopper). But again, the only important thing that matters is how much you like your car!
(Being French, I love when you show Canadian products with their literal translations from English. :p )
These stripes are from the photo so not sure what you mean. They don't stick to standards at times in the real world . . . lol.
I like watching good weathering presentations. It was a favorite part of my time in HO railroading; I still enjoy pulling out a bland railcar and bringing it to life.
Yes. I need to do it more. ;-)
I had a nice, long message of gratitude almost completed, double-tapped the wrong place, and all was gone. I must say, you got me to laugh out loud with your "Here he goes again.....!" line and chuckle. So, before I lose all this message, I'll just say, Boomer, YOU ARE THE BEST!
I know the feeling associated with the dreaded "double tap" - it's a downer for sure . . . lol. Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated. 😁Cheers!
The pressure washing with IPA works amazing. Love doing it on tank cars, thanks Boomer for the wonderful videos
Yes it does!
Dear Boomer, what an awesome shoots. Love the thin paint, try and experiment, fail and try again. Loved the comment you made on social media. Simply true. Cheerio
Thank you! Cheers!
Tamiya and IPA is truly magic. I did some water wet stain painting, and also tried IPA wet stain painting. I almost don't even know why modelers gloss coat and then use oil paint for weathering. I mean for some things yes, but dang almost no need.
The IPA pressure wash makes anomalies I almost feel you could keep. It dries super quick too.
Yes indeed!
Thanks for the post as always Boomer and also nice to see Dusty 👍🏻
👍
Again a great model, great weathering, that got me thinking to learn airbrushing.
Regarding decals, my models are unique in that way there are no decals available. So I use Adobe Illustrator to design the decals I need, and I found a printing service that print them superbly and they are 13 micron waterside. €10 for a A4 size
It's great when you can make your own decals. I just never found the time to do it. Airbrushing is an essential tool if you want to expand your painting doctrine beyond a traditional paint brush. The stuff you can do with fade, etc. when using acrylics is off the charts.
You teached me to take a lot of reference pictures whatever I build. Doesn’t matter if it’s a tree or a car. And it works!
Yes indeed! Too many pictures is never enough - unless you are at the end of the build and then it's a curse . . . lol. 🤣Cheers.
TY! A thoroughly absorbing LESSON in weathering, the spray gun method, as per usual...
AIrbrush fun is always over too quick. They make short work of everything.
Another great tutorial! I am so glad you provide prior content/tips/techniques as takes me a bit to absorb it all!
Glad you enjoy it!
Right on spot, encourages me to upgrade my grain cars which I assembled wayyy back in time. Thanks!!
Grain hoppers are cool cars. ;-)
That corrosion is certainly pretty accurate, especially for English trains!! Great piece of work.
Thank you very much!
Nice job Boomer... very nice. You are right ... we could never exhaust this hobby, it's one of the greatest hobbies that anyone could ever have. Thanks man!
You are welcome!
Love watching your videos they are so calming it’s like watching a modern day Bob Ross Video
I will probably drop one on Sundays.
That’s the best thing about this hobby, I’ve been in it 50 years ( wow, weird to say it) you might finish a model ( track , engines, cars, buildings, scenery? ) and when you do it and get it done to your liking you’re happy with it, great! Might stay that way for years, and then one day you look at it, and your skills get better ( practice) and you say I can do better or I think I’ll try this, whatever, any facet of this hobby lends itself to this, wiring, bench work, painting, detailing, I mean I look at your modeling and think wow! This guy knows his stuff! And you do, I model to the best of my ability, like we all do, but over time you get better at things, there’s still things I shy away from, but if you don’t fail? You don’t learn. I don’t subscribe to a lot of channels, but I look forward to your stuff, you have a knack for keeping it interesting, and teaching at the same time, and as far as air pressure, same here I like mine high, can’t explain it, but I’m comfortable with it, so once again thank you for doing what you do. Best regards, tom
You raise a good point about the learning curve in this hobby. I have a lot of time in the model making genre accumulated over my career as well and you never stop learning or improving. On this layout I go back and retouch things all the time. It is fascinating that way because you become attached to the layout as you perfect your own little world as you say. Cheers. ;-)
Thank you for sharing. Keep up the good work. It's your "Dumbing it down " that helps me learn to do better. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching!
The masking for those fine lines and the Buff painting were eye openers. Thanks again, Rob
It's the little things we overlook that can have the greatest impact.
On a scale of 9 to 10, I give this 12 stars!
I've done minimal airbrushing so far, I have a cheap stater kit (Paasche) and a better quality (Grex) and both have worked flawlessly. I was very hesitant to use airbrushes because I always felt the maintenance would be meticulous and I would never keep or get it clean enough to have a second use as good as the first. But watching your videos, and how you stress the IPA, and how thinning the paint you can't go wrong, I followed that and like I said, they both still work good as new!
Always impressed with your craft my friend.
When you convert to IPA as a solvent for acrylic paint (Tamiya) you will never stress cleaning your airbrush again. Just flush it out and put it away. When you go to use it again run some IPA through it again and your done. I only strip my airbrush once a year - if that.
Nicely done. I'm going to switch over to using the Tamiya XF86 versus Dullcote for my "final" coat. Thanks for sharing these tips. Cheers - Larry.
I love the stuff. It works beautiful. You can actually thin it down quite a bit as well.
Great show!!!
I will take the liberty of adding a bit on decaling...
Personally, I use lacquers exclusively (since Model Master enamels are no longer a thing).
I mix Minwax clear gloss(way cheaper to buy a quart of that, than model specific clear gloss), roughly 50/50 with generic lacquer thinner, for airbrushing gloss for decals.
When ready to place decals, I'll brush on a little Pledge "revive it" (it started out as "Future" floor polish, then it was Pledge "with future shine"). Place decal...dab with paper towel. If the decal is going over any texture (rivets, panel line, etc) then I'll use some micro-sol on it. The (acrylic based) Pledge will fill any tiny voids and prevent silvering. A final clear coat, whether it be gloss, semi-gloss or flat will make any of the residue from the Pledge disappear.
I have used all those older methods in the past when I had a studio. They work great! I don't have the luxury of space anymore so everything is down scaled. Cheers!
Wow, what an awesome tutorial. The way you built up the thinned. paint reminds me of house painting I did. I never used paint right out of the can, I always thinned it first to make it flow better. This just shows what an artist you are. Thanks again
Cheers - Donald
Thank you!
Very nicely done! The model turned out great. I really like the other covered hopper at the end of the video. That car has got to be the best I have seen. I used to use weathering chalk all the time. I’m going to have to try airbrushing. Normally the ones I see air brushed have too much paint and almost looks like a repaint on half of the model. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks 👍
Excellent stuff again, thanks. And I don't even use airbrush... The philosophy, the attitude, just spot on. About graffiti, at least the passenger trains in North America seem to be pretty clean, not so much here in Europe. If I would be a modeller in N.A. hating graffiti, I'd probably go with passenger traffic modeling (mostly).
Yeah. Graffiti is pretty heavy here in my area. They even get to "compound" tank cars etc. I think railroads gave up trying to repaint decades ago. ;-)
Boomer, you make a great point that those of us who weather really don’t know what’s going to happen! I do a lot of weathering for myself and others and it is very true. So hard to say sometimes if a technique is going to work or if the car as a whole is going to turn out.
So true. This is why video tutorials are unpredictable as well. You can't really capture the process on video, at the bench, because as soon as you rehearse and choreograph the process it often ends up as fail. The space is almost sacred and meant to be just you and the model coupled to the experience.
Furthermore, when you do commissions, you will almost always produce your worst work (as a seasoned artist I know). When you paint for yourself (no pressure) the model's often turn out awesome. 😁Cheers ~ Boomer.
@@boomerdiorama Don't tell my clients!
Very good material, I'n going to have to watch again to make sure that I got certain things. By the way, I have also been adding some of the rust streaks on the seams of modern covered hoppers. but I often use colored pencils, One can apply from heavy to light, and if (when!) I screw up I canuse a bit of water or glass cleaner to clear the error. Another tip, for the modern-era modeler, MicroScale make "Mini Cal" MC-4389 "Data, Reflector Stripes, 4"X 18", Yellow". It's a whole package of the most common size strupes.
Thanks for sharing about the Data Reflector. decals. Colored pencils are awesome for what you describe. I use water-color pencils, and oil, on occasion as well.👍
Thanks! This has always been my approach to french polish finishes in woodwoorking. Sometimes I can put as many as 30 coats on and you can add hints of color as well. Nothing like that deep sheened rubbed look in woodworking.
Great tip! Thank you!
That's a beautiful shade of crud you mix i must say.
It really is!
Thanks Boomer! Always learn something from every video you do!
Glad to hear it!
Reminds me I need a bunch too as CNJ used the same type for captive service between a Glass Bottle plant and a sand mine only a couple model miles from each staging entrance. The cars getting a light sandblasting with every loading cycle made some funky weathering patterns.
I think Badger makes a mini Air-eraser (sand blaster) that works great for weathering as well.
I deal with the historical accuracy associated with graffiti on freight cars by modelling a period during which there _was_ *no* graffiti on cars, public buildings, etc. In other words, all the years of my childhood and well into my adult years. I'm a boomer, too, and I prefer to remember and model the railroads when there were still dozens of class 1 roads, cabooses on the ends of trains, type-written train-order flimsies, and five-man crews. It was by no means a golden age, but I understood it and it made sense to me.
I _don't_ understand blowing a $100 worth of spray paint (not that it's always paid for) to make "art" on someone-else's (including public) property. I especially don't understand it as some kind of social statement, protest, _cri de cœur_ , or folk art. If I understand any part of it, I see it as a middle finger thrown to no one in particular and therefore to everyone in general. It advances no cause, solves no problems, gives no hope or comfort to anyone. It's just vandalism, and the motives behind it are whatever twisted impulses are behind any such activity.
So before _I_ do any railroad modeling, I set the Way-Back machine about fifty years and step into it. As a side benefit, there's no Taylor Swift, Donald Trump, or Elon Musk multiple times a day in the news back then. Wait . . . maybe it _was_ a golden age.
. . . and there is culture. Culture is what it is. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Well, you are correct, of course--it _is_ culture--and people have been graphically marking their surroundings since Neanderthals did so on the walls of their caves. "I was here," their hand prints seem to say. God _is_ here the frescoes of the Renaissance say. But a swastika is culture, too, as is the hammer and sickle, the Jolly Roger, and the grim-reaper emblem of the Cartel del Diablo. I like happy symbols on my railroad: the feather emblem of the Western Pacific RR, Rocky the Goat of the Great Northern, and the lovely dogwood blossom of the British Columbia Railway. 😉
@@tcarney57 If a modeler builds a German (Historical) aircraft with a Swastika on the tail (like a JU-87) I am just fine with it. Who am I to arbitrate what a particular artist puts on their canvas? I believe in modeling your own world as you see it and respecting free speech. 😁
@@boomerdiorama 😊
Please keep doing what you're doing! I'm just getting back into the hobby so I am just starting to watch your videos, and the nuggets of info you throw out for new folks and more experienced as well are priceless. Thanks for 'lifting the veil' on how to make such realistic models...you're helping many of us get a lot more enjoyment out of this hobby.
Lot's of videos to watch. Go to "Home Page" and use the search bar to find video's. Type keyword in and they all come up.
I like one side fits all... good compromise. Cheers and Hi to Dusty.
😁
Now that’s what I call realistic!! Great paint job!! It looks wonderful and realistic with all that weathering!! Well done!!
It's the basic approach to weathering where you done' built up multiple layers of mud. ;-)
I’m glad to see you making a really detailed model of this particular wagon. And by the way, I know that just about all railroad vehicles are known as cars, but as an Englishman, I know them as carriages for people and wagons for freight.
Slang gets the better of me at times because I get lazy with words. ;-)
This car looks fantastic, some great tips,
Thanks 👍
Another great video Thank you.
You are welcome!
Wow! During my learning journey I've watched way too many modeling videos and never heard the reason (beyond air underneath) why decals silver! The gloss coat smooths the paint surface--- thank you for this and all your other tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video✌️👍💜😊
I like what you said about taking risks, happy accidents I call 'mistakes' etc.
I've been lucky enough to have my work published - people have been very kind about my weathering and the use of new techniques. I've often been asked to teach people or describe in even greater detail how I do it (outside of what I've written for articles) and I say 'I can't, I don't know how I do it, it's different every time'. I like to share techniques, but still I've been accused of being elitist or keeping trade secrets, it's not that at all. Also I've been told I'm too amateur if I do it differently each time. However the way you've stated it, is exactly how I work, I'm always bouncing boundaries and making mistakes 'happy accidents'. It's a risk but it's how I up my game, learn, it's not always fun when things go wrong, but one learns from it, turns it around. Sometimes paints play up - I've even had masking tape affect certain paint types (these days I use Tamiya tape for modelling).
I mainly use water based acrylics with Ultimate thinners, and/or others' wetting agents. I use cheap IPA to clean the airbrush. My favourite paints used to be Airfix, sadly, NLA, then Humbrol. But due to health and working indoors I use WB acrylics with a small booth and/or a mask (acrylics become plasticised). If I use solvents for limited use I use low/zero odour thinners but one still has to be careful. I hardly use rattle cans nowadays for modelling. WB acrylic lacquer/varnishes can be a chore though.
I wish I had more time for modelling, to watch more of your wonderful videos, sadly I don't. But your work inspires me to do the little that I do at this time.
I tend to work at 15-25 psi these days too - no issues encountered if paint is thinned well🙏🤞✌️👍😊💜
BTW your cheap airbrush? Reminds me of a Paasche in many ways. I've two workhorse Paasche, a H (only ever clogged that once trying artists acrylic paint, I'd thinned it well but the particulates must have been larger and it needed thinning more, it became like plastic fast too - yuk!), and a Millennium. I've also three H&S airbrushes - superb. Two Sparmax for large scale RC models (both are trigger type) and a cheap GHAD39 by Galleeri (£30 to see what all the hype is about). I don't want to spend hours cleaning airbrushes (H&S are easiest to strip or partially strip and clean - closely followed by the two Paasche).
I hope my little essay may help other viewers 🙏🤞✌️👍💜😊
P.S Dusty is great💜💜
I used to love Humbrol paints growing up. In fact, I still have a few "favorite" colors of Humbrol unopened in my paint drawer.
I welcome mistakes' and cheap airbrushes all the time. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama Yes I've still got 40 year old Humbrol paints, still useable too😊👍 Mistakes are learning, giving too, aren't they. However I get miffed if I make silly repeated mistakes😲💔🙄😀
Another jewel Boomer !! Along with a wealth of tips and modeling philosophy 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽 Good stuff as always 😊😊
Thanks again!
Just a couple of days ago i found your channel. I like your Layout and
The Videos are quite inspiring,... thanks a lot
Keep having fun!
Greetings from Germany❤
Welcome aboard!
Thanks
Thank you Peter! Cheers ~ Boomer.
GREAT! I have that exact car in N Scale. I have others too. I'm posting this compliment in advance as I'll watch this video in it's entirety later today but I also wanted to thank you for inspiring me to add even more detail to my locomotives, which look great if you ask me. Thank you again for what you do.
O.K. Thanks for sharing and you are welcome. Cheers!
Great vid! That patched "C" is pretty unique about your prototype photo if you ever revisit this car. Your flatcar from the Jersey barrier video is really good too. I looked hard at my stock after that vid for sure.
I'm about to dive into airbrushing. I took Adam Savage's tool advice to get cheap everything to start and then buy the most expensive I can afford once my skills outgrow them. 👍
thanks!
Have fun!
Great tutorial..thanks for sharing boomer.. cheers.
Thank you! Cheers!
Great tips. using scrap plastic to check thinned paint. I know varying the umber it's not as critical but to match a color of a previously painted model that's a great tool.
Varying the spring tension on the airbrush is a great tip as well. It helps to comprehend the learning curve of the airbrush.
Made my life easier. All new to me.
You teach like we are all there at at the bench with you in person.
Thanks Brother!
Post script.
I took photos of a friend's model years ago ( military) and to show his subtle weathering I found a dark blue sheet that I covered the table with for a backdrop. It made the subtle painting and weathering pop on a digital shot.
You may know this already from your former work.
Just something that works for me.
Right on about the Umber paint and the spring tension on the trigger. ;-)
That's a great idea! I love hearing how people experiment with color background, etc. Bright lighting is very important as well.
That weathering looks amazing!
It's basic but I love it. Thank you! ;-)
@@boomerdiorama more than basic!
Thank you putting in so much effort to bring us these videos. I am deliberating buying an airbrush as I love weathering but dry brushing and chalks is a little limited. An airbrush will bring it up a level.
Have fun!
Also, anything that comes out of Japan is quality. Hondas and Tamiya paint being two examples 💪🏻👍🏻
@@vikingofengland I drive a Honda and shoot Tamiya paint. I also drive a Ford as well. 😉
Great Informative Video and brilliiant air brushing skills
Thanks 👍
Awesome tutorial. Thanks Boomer.
No problem 👍
Love your attitude you are a very good teacher, also I might need some therapy and you might be a good therapist lol
Cheers!
;-) Cheers.
Awesome! I never considered thinning the paint as much as you use in weathering. I must try this technique in using one of your key words. Layering! Thank you for taking the time to show less experienced modelers, like myself.
Sounds great!
Good realistic weathering, like it alot. I thought your airbrush in this video was a 'suction feed'. Because all my 'gravity feed' airbrushes have the paint cup on top !
Anyways, Vallejo paint, you mention a few video's back, that you wasn't keen on the way they sprayed at low psi. (Me too). I was informed can be sprayed around 30psi + to flow good. Im still not keen, but maybe helpful to you. Great video. Thanks.
I just don't shoot Vallejo because I don't have to. Nothing wrong with shooting it. I find Tamiya to be so much more easier to thin and clean. ;-)
I'm going to have a try createx. For the quantity in the bottle, it roughly the same as Tamiya cost here. If Createx is as versatile as Tamiya it will be good. @@boomerdiorama
You expand my thinking and you nurture my courage. Thanks for the very helpful video. And........... "Hello" to Dusty! (with a light scratch behind each ear).
You are so welcome!
I like when you create a story to "justify" a mistake.
The fundamental rule of becoming a better painter is making mistakes. In fact, welcome them. ;-)
Great teacher, great artist, great modeler, when painting wheel sets do you paint inside of wheels ?
Yes, eventually. Sometimes I don't if I plan to change the wheel sets after painting. I tend to migrate semi-scale wheel sets into the trucks later on. 😁
Personally, I have never customised a railway vehicle of any kind. I have a light weathering done by a professional weatherer so that my layout just runs well and looks great!!
That's O.K. Good practice for the other guy though. ;-)
You should see the amount of graffiti on our trains here in England!! Well done for getting it to look half decent!!
I tend to graffiti on one side.
Thank you Boomer
You are welcome!
Don't worry about getting it right in one step. In real life, weathering happens in multiple stages!
Exactly!
Who in there right mind is taking a microscope to Boomers work??couldn't imagine😅🚂🇨🇦Boomer. Still running laps so you dont have too😋🔁
Cheers! ~ Boom.
Is that a big cup of coffee or Tamiya Flat Flesh XF-15 on your work bench?
No, it's "Buff" ;-)
Great tutorial - I'm learning a huge amount from this video, especially on pressures to use.
One question - do you thin X22 and XF86 the same way you do with the pigments?
Yes and yes.
Howdy Boomer.
I loaded up a new video on UA-cam of my scratch built grain elevator. I gave you props or a recommendation for viewers to mosey on over to you channel. You Jive?
Yehaw!
Thanks for sharing!
Another fantastic video tutorial. Do you pre-coat your models before weathering with Tamiya? Many people like to use Testors Dullcote before applying any paint. Thank you!
I usually pre-fade with Tamiya white or beige before I apply any subsequent weathering, washes, etc. The paint is so thin, almost like "tinted" IPA for the pre-shade. When it goes on it just looks wet until it drys - then it looks faded equally all around regardless of the color. 😁
@@boomerdiorama Thank you!
Looks very neat, not neat, dirty, LOL
DO YOU EVER USE WEATHERING POWDERS ON ROLLING STOCK OR FOR ANYTHING??? Do they have a place, like one being better than another or is it a preference?
Thanks for sharing/educating us. Ron
I don't like loose media on my models so I don't normally use powders or chalks. Sometime I will use dry pigments though. But I activate them with solvent to bind them to the model.
I would like to get a Cylinder hopper and weather it
Go for it!
Is there any methodology on how you chose between the two airbrushes? Like, one is for detail work and the other for bigger surfaces? thank you.
Not really. But then it all depends on how I feel at the time. If I want to paint larger model surfaces I tend to use my Pasche with the bigger cup. If I plan to paint a "contest" model then maybe I up the game a little. At the end of the day you have to go with what you have confidence with and confidence comes with practice. The more practice, the less you believe in overhyped airbrushes and black magic. It's just practicing with thin paint at the end of the day. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama You are the best with your quick response time 🙌. I understand you going with your intuition.
So it depends rather on the cup size of the airbrush than on different tips and needls with maybe wider strokes?
Being a beginner in airbrushing I just realized that with my Omni 5000 I have to go further away from the model in order to get more surface coverage, which then distributes the particles quite a bit in the room. That's why I was wondering, if there is any rules with the different airbrushes. :)
I’m trying my best not to buy an airbrush…. Can you get the same vibe using acrylic paint & paint brushes only? Also do you recommend a specific sealer?
You can achieve remarkable results with a traditional paint brush and acrylics as I have demonstrated in numerous videos. You can also use the Vallejo Flat, Satin, and Glossy (Acrylic) varnishes with a traditional brush as well. I do it all the time.
On the other hand, you cannot achieve the same look of an airbrush when it comes to blending super thin layers and with greater depth. An airbrush is an asset to any modler who wishes to climb the paint learning curve. Don't let fear win and dive in all the way.
Cheers ~ Boomer.😁
@@boomerdiorama all makes perfect sense! Lol
Thanks a lot for your input🙏🏽🫡. Your vids have been helpful to say the least 🙌🏽. Appreciate it!!
Boomer, a friend told me that if I use isopropyl alcohol in an airbrush, that I will destroy the seals. Is there anything to that? Is it true of some airbrushes, but not of others?
Lol . . . That's a myth. Most of all the airbrushes I use on the channel shoot IPA for over twenty years (on a routine basis) not a hobby basis. I'm an old pro but I guess that means nothing in the face of social media opinion these days.
I have never replaced a seal yet. Although, I have I have replace rubber seals when I use other corrosive solvents. He probably rarely uses the airbrush anyway (compared to me), which explains why they dry out. IPA has nothing to do with it. If you don't use it you will lose it. Cheers.
The biggest problem I find, with social media, is how many “teachers” are out there. There is so much bad information out there, because everybody and their mother, wants to make instructional based videos, when they haven’t put in the reps. You wouldn’t hire a plumber, to teach high school English, just because he speaks English lol. Maybe not the greatest analogy, but I think I’m getting my point across.
I agree. Not to mention the severe A.D.D. induced opinion which can only hear sound bytes out of context.
Smart students figure out what is authentic and good doctrine in the end. ;-)
@@boomerdiorama 100%. They’ll hear a snippet of something, from someone who shouldn’t be educating to begin with, and then preach it, out of context. I’ve successfully broken so many “rules”, by experimenting and seeing what happens 🤷♂️
What is your go to for paint to ipa mixture?
Tamiya Acrylic
@@boomerdiorama how much ipa do you add to the tamiya paint? What the mixture percentage?
@@ItzRoKo Go with what you feel works.😁
How much whiskey thinner you put in that mug you drink from LOL😆
Caffeine is all I can barely handle . . . ;-)
I think it is perfectly valid to remove the Nigerian Manure tagging from your own people's creations such as Railway cars. More of a what might of been had we remained a free people...
Cheers!
@TheBelrick: The problem of graffiti isn't caused by a lack of freedom, it's caused by an _excess_ of freedom, and a confusion between freedom and _license_ (a problem which, by the way, knows no racial or national distinction).