PAC instructions clearly state to connect the male plugs to the source unit (stereo) and somehow you still managed to screw it up and connect it to the amp and then make a instructional video, giving everyone wrong info. 👏
Alternator whine from your car stereo is quite likely dry solder joints inside the old radio unit itself. I removed the unit, opened it up, recognised several bad solder joints, and renewed them. Reinstalled car stereo - whining completely gone. :)
You are correct with the solution you used. One thing I found with 20 plus years in the business was the quality of the equipment. Cheap amps guarantee noise. I sold only higher end and never had problems with noise. We warned people who brought in their own equipment that it would be an issue ahead of time if it was cheap. Honestly I have no idea why it worked that way. Perhaps the quality of design or built in filters. We used JL, PPI, Eclipse, Alpine. Clarion(made in Japan product) If there was noise using one of those then the amp was defective. There's a huge aftermarket filter business and no one just comes out and just says what I'm saying. If you ever get a higher end amp ($400 up range) drop it in using the same wires minus the filters and you will see. You may even find a shop to lend you an amp to test it or at least get their input on what I said. High end of course.
I installed a amp and JVC radio in my 71 F100 and it worked like a champ...no problem. I bought another exact set up for my 73 F100 and it whines and clicks like a mother. I disconnect the alternator and it still does it. The ignition wires are new, the distributor cap is new, the coil is new and for the truck with internal resistor, I checked the condensers all over and they are good. I put ferrites on all speaker wires and power and ground wires...the same. I put a noise reduction device on the radio power...still does it. Switched to the power wire to amp...still does it. I ran power straight from the battery and ground... still does it. I put a condenser temporarily on the coil...no change. I used the wire connections for the radio and amp and did the same on the other truck that works like a champ. I'm totally lost. I replaced ground wire...motor to body to frame, no change.
Somewhere along the amp wiring you have the power and ground running parallel to each other they need to cross perpendicular to get rid of the engine wine.
The SNI-1 takes a lot of base out of the sound. I don't have a sub to replace that lost base. I removed the SNI-1's, too much loss for my taste. My whine is coming from the aftermarket head unit so I'll be diagnosing further. Going to try some ferrite chocks on the power wires and triple check RCA grounding.
Oddly I haven't lost any bass that I can say.. I don't have a sub but I do have two three way 6x9 two 6.5 two ways and a set of tweeters... You can try grounding your amp in the trunk and then run an additional ground directly to the battery. I myself found it easier this way because I was getting too much interference with the rca cables on one side of my car and the same interference on the other side where the power cable was... I couldn't win so I tried these and they worked.
Never run 2 grounds, that will make it worse. Just run one thick cable from the amp/stereo/radio/head unit to the battery ground. Using the body ground exposes the unit to ground loop current in the vehicle body due to all of the various electrical components connected at different spots. Each ground is at a slightly different low voltage, causing currents to flow in the body. No bueno. Avoid it all by running the ground all the way back to the battery. Every time.
It always comes down to a bad ground or not enough grounding, or to much voltage loss measuring at battery then at trunk,and if you c an afford it invest in a hair pin stator high voltage alternator something in the 300 to 350 amperage area, all the wattage you want at low rpm's
Also make sure use a drill with a wire wheel attachment to strip all paint and rust and get to shiny metal , and either use lock washers or drill a hole as and use those custom lockup washers that prevent any ground bolts from rattling loose just wire it right you should never need filters use at least 4 gauge ofc for most that's enough,if your system is bigger 2 or zero gauge may be needed no splices anywhere also and don't cheap out on your wiring install kit ok only use a good name I know there pricy but at least you will be able to enjoy it , instead of having your head in trunk everyday wire it right it's that simple thousands of videos online on how to do so if you end up with a bad wiring job ,it's nobody's fault but your own or your just plain lazy haa I seen guys who are it happens
you might wanna get a smaller load amp, like 600w, but youre ok, but get a multimeter, turn on the car, check the voltage on the battery should be around 13.5-14.5 volts, now turn on your amplifier and volume all the way up, check the voltage again, it shouldnt go under 13.5volts, to be even safer, turn on headlights, AC, , any heat source if you have heated seats, and measure the voltage again, all these while the car is still on, it shouldnt drop bellow 13.5 if it does drop below that voltage the car is not charging enough and you might get a dead battery, or the car randomly stall when all the power is drained by the amplifier. but a 600w amplifier wouldnt do that, if it is then you get into those big boring projects, where you're rewiring your cars engine because at the end it developed some corrosion that got into the battery cables, even the one going to the freaking fuse box after some time and then your car is crap because all the wires mightve developed corrosion liek the ground cables, which are expensive to install, when you have to get all the cables and ring terminals, or maybe you decide you wanna produce more power and then you try a shtty alternator or tighten it too much, or get a thicker gauge one going from the alternator, which is crap, id only wanna do that if i really replace the alternator cable and get a big amplifier, I wouldnt wanna put a bigger load on my cars belts or harmonic balancers.
Wow thanks for the video Rob That's really neat didn't know that. I have a 2001 Grand Prix GT and I got a pioneer deck in it but I'm not running an amp on the head deck The only amp I have is for the subs and I don't get no wine out of them. I suppose if I had an amp on the head deck then I might get a wine but it's 50 times 4 I believe I think that's pretty common it's plenty loud I don't need anything more.
I hear ya man. I'm the reverse...I don't have a sub but I do have six speakers to drive so I wanted a bit more juice to drive them all. I have two 4 way 6x9 pioneers in the rear deck...two polk audio 2 way marines in the doors and two pioneer tweeters in the dash pillars...you should hear this thing with that pioneer amp...it'll knock your sox off...lol
You can fix the whine by grounding the amp correctly. Never use the body ground. Never double ground. Filters affect the sound quality. Simply run the ground wire to the battery and the whine will go away. No need to buy $50 worth of filters. In a vehicle with a common body ground, electrical components are attached all over the body. And each one of these grounds is at a slightly different voltage from each other. Very small differences. This sets up GROUND LOOP CURRENTS in the body as current flows from slightly higher grounds to slightly lower voltage grounds. So it's best to avoid the body ground completely.
Debatable. I'm running Knuconceptz crystal RCAs (OFC, twisted, and double shielded) and the power wires are ran on the opposite side of the vehicle. I'm having the same issue he's having with $15 rcas with a $45 set so I think they don't matter when it comes to coil whine
Run the amp and head unit grounds all the way back to the battery. Car bodies are full of ground loop currents from all of the electrical components attached to it. Each ground is at a slightly different low voltage causing current to flow in the body, commonly referred to as ground loop currents. Aka: noise.
Naw, it's usually a bad body ground. The car body is full of low voltage ground loop currents. Run the ground all the way to the battery. Fixes it every time.
My 2009 lancer stereo cd mode can play discs only the sound is fuzzy like static on a tv. You know music is playing but its distorted. I used a commercial release cd from 2010's. Perhaps the player is not plugged in correctly. Perhaps it needs cleaning. The radio, aux both work. Speakers work. Any thoughts??
i got whine only when i turn on the light, how can i fix that? i notice the cable with power and ground of control unit of light is going same way with my rca, same rca cable with you i have
I have whing I would love to buy those rca filters but I don’t if i need those or rca are bad on my amp when i hook up one rca on red it whines then when i hook up to white it whines but not as loud im stumped
Sni-1's are the best "cheaters" you can use for whine if you install your system so bad like this one you need them. They are also meant to be plugged into the head unit... Guy don't do anything seen here. ROFL
That popping noise is happening because your remote turn on from your head unit (THE ONLY SOLID BLUE WIRE) EITHER ISNT CONNECTED, CONNECTED WRONG, this wire turns your amps on first about 5 seconds delay then your head unit comes on make sure the blue wire is connected
These work but 99% of the time it someone doing something dumb and the rca are not the problem but if you can’t get anything to work these work these are also normally supposed to be near the stereo but if it works it works
Never use the body for a ground. Because everything else is grounded to the body, causing noisy ground loop currents to flow. Just run the ground all the way to the battery. It's a simple fix.
@@dirtytamato even though I did install these incorrectly it seems to have helped but I have since removed the filters after reading some of the comments on my video. I admit I did install them incorrectly... I have run into another issue... My stereo turns on but now I get no sound at all... The amp shows a red light instead of a blue light... I'm stumped...
PAC instructions clearly state to connect the male plugs to the source unit (stereo) and somehow you still managed to screw it up and connect it to the amp and then make a instructional video, giving everyone wrong info. 👏
I was wondering the same things and hence they are connected backwards.
@@edrivera1380 regardless, it didn’t do anything to help with my noise. Waste of $
That's what I'm saying lol thank you bro ja ja
Alternator whine from your car stereo is quite likely dry solder joints inside the old radio unit itself.
I removed the unit, opened it up, recognised several bad solder joints, and renewed them.
Reinstalled car stereo - whining completely gone. :)
I was having this theory glad you mentioned it. It's given me enough motivation to rewire the harness and make sure everything is isolated.
Wrap your rca cables in foil or just keep them away from the power and grounding cables it interferse a weird signal when both near eachother
You are correct with the solution you used. One thing I found with 20 plus years in the business was the quality of the equipment.
Cheap amps guarantee noise. I sold only higher end and never had problems with noise. We warned people who brought in their own equipment that it would be an issue ahead of time if it was cheap. Honestly I have no idea why it worked that way. Perhaps the quality of design or built in filters. We used JL, PPI, Eclipse, Alpine. Clarion(made in Japan product)
If there was noise using one of those then the amp was defective. There's a huge aftermarket filter business and no one just comes out and just says what I'm saying. If you ever get a higher end amp ($400 up range) drop it in using the same wires minus the filters and you will see. You may even find a shop to lend you an amp to test it or at least get their input on what I said. High end of course.
I installed a amp and JVC radio in my 71 F100 and it worked like a champ...no problem. I bought another exact set up for my 73 F100 and it whines and clicks like a mother. I disconnect the alternator and it still does it. The ignition wires are new, the distributor cap is new, the coil is new and for the truck with internal resistor, I checked the condensers all over and they are good. I put ferrites on all speaker wires and power and ground wires...the same. I put a noise reduction device on the radio power...still does it. Switched to the power wire to amp...still does it. I ran power straight from the battery and ground... still does it. I put a condenser temporarily on the coil...no change. I used the wire connections for the radio and amp and did the same on the other truck that works like a champ. I'm totally lost. I replaced ground wire...motor to body to frame, no change.
Pioneer have Pico fuses on their RCA’s and they go bad. Just ground the RCA shields at the radio. Hook the ground to the chassis of the radio.
Somewhere along the amp wiring you have the power and ground running parallel to each other they need to cross perpendicular to get rid of the engine wine.
I just installed a pac1 in my new system and it eliminated the small amount of whine that I had in my rear speakers on a 4ch amp
Sorry about the typo in the caption at the start of the video....That was supposed to say "How" not "Ho" LOL
A upgrade to your electric system would do it good too, the big 3 upgrade
The SNI-1 takes a lot of base out of the sound. I don't have a sub to replace that lost base. I removed the SNI-1's, too much loss for my taste. My whine is coming from the aftermarket head unit so I'll be diagnosing further. Going to try some ferrite chocks on the power wires and triple check RCA grounding.
Oddly I haven't lost any bass that I can say.. I don't have a sub but I do have two three way 6x9 two 6.5 two ways and a set of tweeters... You can try grounding your amp in the trunk and then run an additional ground directly to the battery. I myself found it easier this way because I was getting too much interference with the rca cables on one side of my car and the same interference on the other side where the power cable was... I couldn't win so I tried these and they worked.
Never run 2 grounds, that will make it worse. Just run one thick cable from the amp/stereo/radio/head unit to the battery ground. Using the body ground exposes the unit to ground loop current in the vehicle body due to all of the various electrical components connected at different spots. Each ground is at a slightly different low voltage, causing currents to flow in the body. No bueno. Avoid it all by running the ground all the way back to the battery. Every time.
BASS
It always comes down to a bad ground or not enough grounding, or to much voltage loss measuring at battery then at trunk,and if you c an afford it invest in a hair pin stator high voltage alternator something in the 300 to 350 amperage area, all the wattage you want at low rpm's
Also make sure use a drill with a wire wheel attachment to strip all paint and rust and get to shiny metal , and either use lock washers or drill a hole as and use those custom lockup washers that prevent any ground bolts from rattling loose just wire it right you should never need filters use at least 4 gauge ofc for most that's enough,if your system is bigger 2 or zero gauge may be needed no splices anywhere also and don't cheap out on your wiring install kit ok only use a good name I know there pricy but at least you will be able to enjoy it , instead of having your head in trunk everyday wire it right it's that simple thousands of videos online on how to do so if you end up with a bad wiring job ,it's nobody's fault but your own or your just plain lazy haa I seen guys who are it happens
you might wanna get a smaller load amp, like 600w, but youre ok, but get a multimeter, turn on the car, check the voltage on the battery should be around 13.5-14.5 volts, now turn on your amplifier and volume all the way up, check the voltage again, it shouldnt go under 13.5volts, to be even safer, turn on headlights, AC, , any heat source if you have heated seats, and measure the voltage again, all these while the car is still on, it shouldnt drop bellow 13.5 if it does drop below that voltage the car is not charging enough and you might get a dead battery, or the car randomly stall when all the power is drained by the amplifier. but a 600w amplifier wouldnt do that, if it is then you get into those big boring projects, where you're rewiring your cars engine because at the end it developed some corrosion that got into the battery cables, even the one going to the freaking fuse box after some time and then your car is crap because all the wires mightve developed corrosion liek the ground cables, which are expensive to install, when you have to get all the cables and ring terminals, or maybe you decide you wanna produce more power and then you try a shtty alternator or tighten it too much, or get a thicker gauge one going from the alternator, which is crap, id only wanna do that if i really replace the alternator cable and get a big amplifier, I wouldnt wanna put a bigger load on my cars belts or harmonic balancers.
😳🤭🙉😴
Wow thanks for the video Rob That's really neat didn't know that. I have a 2001 Grand Prix GT and I got a pioneer deck in it but I'm not running an amp on the head deck The only amp I have is for the subs and I don't get no wine out of them. I suppose if I had an amp on the head deck then I might get a wine but it's 50 times 4 I believe I think that's pretty common it's plenty loud I don't need anything more.
I hear ya man. I'm the reverse...I don't have a sub but I do have six speakers to drive so I wanted a bit more juice to drive them all. I have two 4 way 6x9 pioneers in the rear deck...two polk audio 2 way marines in the doors and two pioneer tweeters in the dash pillars...you should hear this thing with that pioneer amp...it'll knock your sox off...lol
You can fix the whine by grounding the amp correctly. Never use the body ground. Never double ground. Filters affect the sound quality. Simply run the ground wire to the battery and the whine will go away. No need to buy $50 worth of filters.
In a vehicle with a common body ground, electrical components are attached all over the body. And each one of these grounds is at a slightly different voltage from each other. Very small differences. This sets up GROUND LOOP CURRENTS in the body as current flows from slightly higher grounds to slightly lower voltage grounds. So it's best to avoid the body ground completely.
Or it could also be if your rcas are all a mess and tangled it also messes with the signal , i usually go with kicker or skar audio rcas
Think you just have cheap RCA wire. Tony D’Amore has a good video explaining why spending more rca wires is important.
Debatable. I'm running Knuconceptz crystal RCAs (OFC, twisted, and double shielded) and the power wires are ran on the opposite side of the vehicle. I'm having the same issue he's having with $15 rcas with a $45 set so I think they don't matter when it comes to coil whine
Run the amp and head unit grounds all the way back to the battery. Car bodies are full of ground loop currents from all of the electrical components attached to it. Each ground is at a slightly different low voltage causing current to flow in the body, commonly referred to as ground loop currents. Aka: noise.
Try to filter BEFORE the amp.
I'm getting some whine in my car. I am using the exact same rca cables you are. Maybe they are shit?
It's possible that they are crap but they look pretty awesome.. I guess looks do not matter however.
Naw, it's usually a bad body ground. The car body is full of low voltage ground loop currents. Run the ground all the way to the battery. Fixes it every time.
@@chiphill4856 I tried that, didn't fix it
My 2009 lancer stereo cd mode can play discs only the sound is fuzzy like static on a tv. You know music is playing but its distorted. I used a commercial release cd from 2010's. Perhaps the player is not plugged in correctly. Perhaps it needs cleaning. The radio, aux both work. Speakers work. Any thoughts??
i got whine only when i turn on the light, how can i fix that? i notice the cable with power and ground of control unit of light is going same way with my rca, same rca cable with you i have
Ty I install and mine it works👍
I have whing I would love to buy those rca filters but I don’t if i need those or rca are bad on my amp when i hook up one rca on red it whines then when i hook up to white it whines but not as loud im stumped
Такой сижу смотрю а мне всё больше нравится так что лайк неоспоримо!!!👍💯💛💙UA👋
Sni-1's are the best "cheaters" you can use for whine if you install your system so bad like this one you need them. They are also meant to be plugged into the head unit... Guy don't do anything seen here. ROFL
Nice video
need a couple
hi sir give blackdiagram...plz...fr.philipines..noise filter ..thx
Will this take care poping noise on start up ???
That popping noise is happening because your remote turn on from your head unit (THE ONLY SOLID BLUE WIRE) EITHER ISNT CONNECTED, CONNECTED WRONG, this wire turns your amps on first about 5 seconds delay then your head unit comes on make sure the blue wire is connected
These work but 99% of the time it someone doing something dumb and the rca are not the problem but if you can’t get anything to work these work these are also normally supposed to be near the stereo but if it works it works
where do you connect the ground wires cause i’m not getting any sound from my amp :(
Ground wires go to ground which is the chassis ideally or any bare metal connecting to body of vehicle
Never use the body for a ground. Because everything else is grounded to the body, causing noisy ground loop currents to flow. Just run the ground all the way to the battery. It's a simple fix.
Are you kidding?
Or just fix the initial problem...you said you know where it comes from.
This is installed wrong!
Please explain
@@dirtytamato even though I did install these incorrectly it seems to have helped but I have since removed the filters after reading some of the comments on my video. I admit I did install them incorrectly...
I have run into another issue... My stereo turns on but now I get no sound at all... The amp shows a red light instead of a blue light... I'm stumped...
It's in protect mode for some reason download a wiring diagram and look at it and assure your system is wired correctly