Toyota tundra crewmax 5.7L. Dealer wanted $900+.... I got it done with a $105.00 water pump and your video, completed in 51/2 hours. All your tips made all the difference! Thank you!
I really thank you for sharing. Not too many people have the patience to instruct others. Very valuable to know how things work in my truck. Gracias from Mexico!
Thanks. I'm an automotive technician. Labor guide says almost 5 hours and this is the first one I've done. Wasn't sure how hard it would be. This video helped me price the job accurately and I was done in less than 2 hours. Thanks again.
Great vids! Helped a friend today. A few pointers these videos haven't captured: 1- removing the radiator (not the radiator housing) is four screws and well worth the extra few minutes. You just need to pop it carefully out of the housing. 2- tensioner bolt is reverse threaded, so you can take a 9/16 on a long handle and pull CCW. Much easier than screwdriver method. The broken part in this video surely made the usual method impossible. 3- there is a bolt to the thermostat housing (for lack of a better term) that does not have room to come out. Loosen it, then follow the small lines around the driver side of the engine and find the two small brackets along the way. Need to undo these to free the housing. Overall, useful vids! Would not have attempted the work on an unknown vehicle without them, so my friend has you (and me) to thank for saving $$$. THANKS!!
Great first video. Most important point of video 1 was the caution on the top radiator tank over-flow spout. If you even remotely think you'll be leaning on it and might break it off...it is WELL worth the time to remove the radiator. Breaking off this spout will cause you to have to replace the entire radiator and they can be expensive. Good Vid..!! Keep up the good work!
thanks for posting this. it is always nice having an idea of what you are getting yourself into even if it's a task you've done before on another vehicle. I took my time and was about 4 hours start to finish. I probably would have cut down some time if I had disassembled in a different order, reinstallation went much smoother.
Just finished today on my 08 Sequoia 80k miles. The hardest thing about this job was the hoses, other than that everything went smooth. Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!!!
Nicely done, you have inspired me to do mine. I saved around 900 bucks. I couldn't believe that it would have cost me a grand to get this done, I am around 110 dollars into it with a new timing belt and fluids. Solid video, and straight foward. Keep up the good work.
Everything was exactly as expected thanks to you! There are some challenges to this job accessing bolts, but overall I would say an average mechanic can do this job. Many thanks for this video!!!!!!
Great video. Thanks. Got mine done the first time in about four hours. The second time in two, they gave me a defective water pump at the auto part store. Thanks for your help. Could not have done it with this video.
Planning to get done this on 08 tundra 5.7, but chilton repair manual process recomend remove ac compressor, what do you think about? Thanks in advance
This is really an excellent video. I just came back from getting the oil changed on my 2007 Tundra and was told my water pump has a leak. 97K miles so I guess not too bad?? Of course the cost to get the pump and belt replaced at the dealership is outrageous so with this video, I am going to be able to do it myself..Thanks!! Would you happen to have any torque values to use for the bolts? I just want to make sure I have everything tightened properly so it stays well sealed. Thanks again!
I could not access the top left bolt. The damn thing is tucked in behind the thermostat housing. Any tips on getting a wrench on it? I pulled the tensioner off to give a little room underneath, not enough.
Water pumps should last 100k so this is sad. I own a 2007 Tundra since new, it has not lived up to the Toyota reputation for quality and I can only wonder if this is due to so many domestic parts. But hey I had no better luck with my previous Chevy. Thanks for posting this is very helpful.
I have a 2014 Tundra that has lost coolant since 25k miles. Today at 46k miles the dealer is finally replacing the water pump. Was losing one coolant overflow bottle every 10 k miles. I have a platinum extended warranty and they have been giving me grief. Also on my 4th window master switch today, they finally figured out it is a short in the plug attached to the master window switch frying the units. I pointed out the melting pins but hey, only this last tech listened. This truck doesn't leave me stranded but has some issues. New front pads and rotors turned at 25k, pads down to zip. I just put new rear brakes in at 42k miles. My tailgate shock absorber went out once and then the nub holding one end on broke from sheetmetal and I welded it back on. Good truck, but not the most durable. I am gonna give it to the wife and pick up a SuperDuty 6.2 gas for myself and see how it does, my 6.0 diesel was garbage. Needs new shock upfront too, one leaking. Tundra also has a leaky rear axle seal, tsb states bad axle vent. Dealer said the seal is not leaky enough to get on my brakes yet so its good. I'm not crazy about their service but Ford of Upland in CA flat out refused to service my 6.0 warranty issues and the tech let me know that the service manager was lying, not very awesome to hear the dealer put the customer out.
So, I guess you forgot to install the small rubber oring seal that comes in the box with the water pump? If the rubber seal is not used it would be beneficial to state that in your video.
Just to let anybody know I just did my first one of these also it's like they were in the old 3 l Toyota engines everything's in the way if you take the 90-degree hose off the thermostat housing at the left hand side facing the engine and pull all the bracket bolts out holding the other hose assemblies coming up from the air conditioning it is possible to remove all the bolts you have to leave one in the housing as it comes out by the three inch hose that way you don't have to ruin all the hoses or struggle with all that stuff you just leave the thermostat housing behind and sneak out the water pump and the belt tensioners are crap definitely replacing when they come apart like that
Thanks for your excellent videos. This is another example of Toyota "legendary reliability" now being a myth left over from their better years. 70K on a 5 year old vehicle already needing a water pump and belt tensioner isn't encouraging and not something you can blame on poor maintenance or hard driving. And what's with the zillion rubber coolant hoses? Any one of which can fail and dump all your coolant stranding you. Could Toyota have added more points of failure if they tried? A friend's 5 year old Forerunner fried its automatic transmission at 51K--just barely outside the powertrain warranty--and Toyota refused to do anything about the $2000+ repair cost. No trailer hitch, no abuse, just stranded in the middle of nowhere and a huge repair and towing bill.
2007 tundra here with 220,000 miles. replacing a thermostat today, that has been the only thing to fail so far and actually the thermostat itself didn't fail its just leaking fluid from the housing, a 6 dollar gasket. Id call that legendary.I think some people just like to bitch about anything they can.My tundra has been the best truck I have ever had and I have worked it hard towing trailers and lots and lots of miles.My only complaint is that you cant easily check the trans fluid level or add fluid, it bothers me to not be able to check on that.
These pumps actually have a small valve which allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the seal under certain conditions. Unfortunately most people don't know this and see a small trace of coolant so they call the pump.
You do realize that 25% of people will vomit if they watch all three videos back to back. Get a camera stand!!! or a camera man who hold the camera still!
Toyota tundra crewmax 5.7L.
Dealer wanted $900+.... I got it done with a $105.00 water pump and your video, completed in 51/2 hours. All your tips made all the difference! Thank you!
I really thank you for sharing. Not too many people have the patience to instruct others. Very valuable to know how things work in my truck. Gracias from Mexico!
Thanks. I'm an automotive technician. Labor guide says almost 5 hours and this is the first one I've done. Wasn't sure how hard it would be. This video helped me price the job accurately and I was done in less than 2 hours. Thanks again.
Great vids! Helped a friend today. A few pointers these videos haven't captured:
1- removing the radiator (not the radiator housing) is four screws and well worth the extra few minutes. You just need to pop it carefully out of the housing.
2- tensioner bolt is reverse threaded, so you can take a 9/16 on a long handle and pull CCW. Much easier than screwdriver method. The broken part in this video surely made the usual method impossible.
3- there is a bolt to the thermostat housing (for lack of a better term) that does not have room to come out. Loosen it, then follow the small lines around the driver side of the engine and find the two small brackets along the way. Need to undo these to free the housing.
Overall, useful vids! Would not have attempted the work on an unknown vehicle without them, so my friend has you (and me) to thank for saving $$$. THANKS!!
Great first video. Most important point of video 1 was the caution on the top radiator tank over-flow spout. If you even remotely think you'll be leaning on it and might break it off...it is WELL worth the time to remove the radiator. Breaking off this spout will cause you to have to replace the entire radiator and they can be expensive. Good Vid..!! Keep up the good work!
thanks for posting this. it is always nice having an idea of what you are getting yourself into even if it's a task you've done before on another vehicle. I took my time and was about 4 hours start to finish. I probably would have cut down some time if I had disassembled in a different order, reinstallation went much smoother.
Just finished today on my 08 Sequoia 80k miles. The hardest thing about this job was the hoses, other than that everything went smooth.
Thanks for the video and keep up the good work!!!
Nicely done, you have inspired me to do mine. I saved around 900 bucks. I couldn't believe that it would have cost me a grand to get this done, I am around 110 dollars into it with a new timing belt and fluids. Solid video, and straight foward. Keep up the good work.
glad it worked out for you,,
Everything was exactly as expected thanks to you! There are some challenges to this job accessing bolts, but overall I would say an average mechanic can do this job. Many thanks for this video!!!!!!
Cool video, love the detailed explanation. This will help someone looking to do this repair in the future I am sure. Thanks for sharing...
One of the best vids I've on here!
Great video. Thanks. Got mine done the first time in about four hours. The second time in two, they gave me a defective water pump at the auto part store. Thanks for your help. Could not have done it with this video.
Great video and tips. I have over 100k on my second wp, i'll do this one myself. First one leaked at 80k, replaced under warranty. Much thanks.
worked for me, I successfully changed my water pump on 07 tundra
glad I was able to help,,
Awesome vid! Thanks!
thanks, glad you enjoyed it,,
Thank you. This really helped me. Have you replaced one in a RAV4? It's my next one, looks extremely more challenging.
Planning to get done this on 08 tundra 5.7, but chilton repair manual process recomend remove ac compressor, what do you think about? Thanks in advance
I have a 2009 5.7 with the supercharger. Just starting to see pink drips. How much different is the procedure with the supercharger? Excellent video.
Good job describing that mustie1.
This is really an excellent video. I just came back from getting the oil changed on my 2007 Tundra and was told my water pump has a leak. 97K miles so I guess not too bad?? Of course the cost to get the pump and belt replaced at the dealership is outrageous so with this video, I am going to be able to do it myself..Thanks!! Would you happen to have any torque values to use for the bolts? I just want to make sure I have everything tightened properly so it stays well sealed. Thanks again!
similar procedure for 4.7L?
Cool stuff man, good to know if you have a toyota. I got to do valve cover gaskets on my 1997 dodge caravan, going to be some real fun . hahaha
Interesting...
Wish my 89 would be so simple...
do you find toyotas are easier to work on?
I could not access the top left bolt. The damn thing is tucked in behind the thermostat housing. Any tips on getting a wrench on it? I pulled the tensioner off to give a little room underneath, not enough.
I would say that they dont need as much repair on the bigger components,and I like to work on them,
Water pumps should last 100k so this is sad. I own a 2007 Tundra since new, it has not lived up to the Toyota reputation for quality and I can only wonder if this is due to so many domestic parts. But hey I had no better luck with my previous Chevy. Thanks for posting this is very helpful.
Nice video. If that is red anti-freeze i would flush and change it.You can check it with a volt meter.
I have a 2014 Tundra that has lost coolant since 25k miles. Today at 46k miles the dealer is finally replacing the water pump. Was losing one coolant overflow bottle every 10 k miles. I have a platinum extended warranty and they have been giving me grief. Also on my 4th window master switch today, they finally figured out it is a short in the plug attached to the master window switch frying the units. I pointed out the melting pins but hey, only this last tech listened. This truck doesn't leave me stranded but has some issues. New front pads and rotors turned at 25k, pads down to zip. I just put new rear brakes in at 42k miles. My tailgate shock absorber went out once and then the nub holding one end on broke from sheetmetal and I welded it back on. Good truck, but not the most durable. I am gonna give it to the wife and pick up a SuperDuty 6.2 gas for myself and see how it does, my 6.0 diesel was garbage. Needs new shock upfront too, one leaking. Tundra also has a leaky rear axle seal, tsb states bad axle vent. Dealer said the seal is not leaky enough to get on my brakes yet so its good. I'm not crazy about their service but Ford of Upland in CA flat out refused to service my 6.0 warranty issues and the tech let me know that the service manager was lying, not very awesome to hear the dealer put the customer out.
I think the serpentine belt diagram is near the bottom of the engine bay. You can see it when the skid plate is removed.
How did this happen? Is 70K miles a little early for a water pump failure?
Yes
my tundra drives off the timing belt, so I know what you mean
The dealership in Utah charged me over 1,000!$! For this. Next time I'm doing it.
So, I guess you forgot to install the small rubber oring seal that comes in the box with the water pump? If the rubber seal is not used it would be beneficial to state that in your video.
You should be teaching!
I thought something that new would have an electric fan on it, and a larger water pump.
Don’t reuse the coolant
Just to let anybody know I just did my first one of these also it's like they were in the old 3 l Toyota engines everything's in the way if you take the 90-degree hose off the thermostat housing at the left hand side facing the engine and pull all the bracket bolts out holding the other hose assemblies coming up from the air conditioning it is possible to remove all the bolts you have to leave one in the housing as it comes out by the three inch hose that way you don't have to ruin all the hoses or struggle with all that stuff you just leave the thermostat housing behind and sneak out the water pump and the belt tensioners are crap definitely replacing when they come apart like that
Thanks for your excellent videos. This is another example of Toyota "legendary reliability" now being a myth left over from their better years. 70K on a 5 year old vehicle already needing a water pump and belt tensioner isn't encouraging and not something you can blame on poor maintenance or hard driving. And what's with the zillion rubber coolant hoses? Any one of which can fail and dump all your coolant stranding you. Could Toyota have added more points of failure if they tried? A friend's 5 year old Forerunner fried its automatic transmission at 51K--just barely outside the powertrain warranty--and Toyota refused to do anything about the $2000+ repair cost. No trailer hitch, no abuse, just stranded in the middle of nowhere and a huge repair and towing bill.
2007 tundra here with 220,000 miles. replacing a thermostat today, that has been the only thing to fail so far and actually the thermostat itself didn't fail its just leaking fluid from the housing, a 6 dollar gasket. Id call that legendary.I think some people just like to bitch about anything they can.My tundra has been the best truck I have ever had and I have worked it hard towing trailers and lots and lots of miles.My only complaint is that you cant easily check the trans fluid level or add fluid, it bothers me to not be able to check on that.
These pumps actually have a small valve which allows a small amount of coolant to bypass the seal under certain conditions. Unfortunately most people don't know this and see a small trace of coolant so they call the pump.
You do realize that 25% of people will vomit if they watch all three videos back to back. Get a camera stand!!! or a camera man who hold the camera still!