Thanks for the video. I had to laugh when you said "because you're not going to be doing it in a fifth wheel like me" because I just put that exact unit in my fifth wheel. I have a built in electric fireplace in the end of my 29ft fifth wheel with cabinets above it. I was able to remove one of the doors on the upper cabinets and the indoor unit just barely fits without hitting the slide and hangs about 4in from the ceiling. I can still put everything back to factory if I want to. But I'd never do that because this thing is a game changer! I have about 300sqft and this unit is good for that PLUS another 1000sqft! Last night the bedroom on the other end of the RV was toasty warm with the fan only set at level 2. Turbo makes the blinds on the bedroom window blow around a little. I bought this so I could move away from propane and thought it would be a trade off. Instead it's clearly a trade up. I've only had it for 24hrs but it sweeps warm air across the entire floor and does a much better job of heating the floor than the propane. And now I don't have to refill propane all of the time. I mounted an RV service box on the back of my RV that is fed by a 50A cord that plugs into a 50A plug on the house. I changed the breaker in my new RV service from 50A to 20A so that I can run the minisplit off of it. I still have a spare 20A and a 30A receptacle on the RV service. I have a 30A plug on the house so I plug the RV into it, but if I'm traveling and only have a 50A plug then I can run my minisplit AND my 30A RV off of my little RV service. Pretty slick. Oh and I still have a 20A leftover to run my heated water hose. This thing looks factory, and I love it that it's enormously oversized for the space. No skirting and I'm ready for whatever winter throws at me.
Nicely done. I NEVER seen anyone else do a temporary install like this until I did it this last weekend, almost exactly like yours, for the same reason. You had a different design than mine but I think yours would have been easier. Did you screw that directly into the window frame? Looks like it. I built a 2x4 frame for the opening, insulated the window edges with pipe insulation to protect it then sandwiched 2 pieces of ply on either side and screwed into the 2x4 frame. Cut a hole and mounted as you did. I will put mine up as well since I had nothing else to follow for this exact use case. Well done and thanks for sharing.
I did attach the plywood board to the frame of the window with 1” self tapping screws. I put that peel and stick door and window frame insulation on the edges of the window frame where the wood would contact. It’s been installed for nearly a year now with now issues. Sounds like yours is more reinforced and there’s nothing wrong with that. Thanks for the comment, and enjoy that sweet sweet cool air.
When operating in cooling mode, your trailer needs to be very level both front to back and side to side, or the condensate water will leak out of the drain pan.
Good point and especially true in my case because the drain runs the full length of the minisplit before it turns down. There's some, but very little elevation drop in that space.
Am I understanding that this is the new and improved version that comes preloaded with its freon and is literally plug and play or is there a step left out of the video that required you to charge the system for use and check it for leaks? I am seeing conflicting information online and obviously want the simplest installation without need of having to buy special tools and meters or hiring an hvac technician. Thankyou in advance!
Correct this is the newer unit called "Plug N Cool". No vacuum pump needed. It was very simple, the hardest part was making a frame for the window to mount it.
They all come precharged with freon. "DIY" units have a sealed line set with a spiffy valve in the connector to hold vacuum in the line. All other units come with the line set but aren't sealed and have to be evacuated with a pump before the charge can be released. Not anything difficult to do if you have a pump and educate yourself a little. It's not rocket science but the manufactures will void the warranties if not installed by a licensed HVAC tech that'll likely cost nearly as much as the unit. Gotcha! But EG4 has the highest rated efficiencies out there at the moment and I think all of their mini's are DIY now. 9K being the only unit not MPPT capable but still DIY.
How many watts of solar does it take to run this unit when running entirely on solar alone? If I were to mount 2000 watts of panels and have it hooked to them and then have its 110 cord plugged into my inverter, is it “smart” so that it would use the solar all day long and then switch itself over to the 110 draw when the sun goes down? Thanks in advance for the help. I am nearly ready to order.
I’m guessing your looking at a 12k btu unit because the 24k one is 230v. The manuals for these units are on eg4’s website. But you want the voc of all the solar panels to be in a range specified by the manual, in series to not exceed 12 amps. For our 24k btu unit I put the max solar 8 370watt panels 41 voc each. So 41 x 8 = 328 voc total from the panels in series pushing 11 amps dc. Yes the unit prioritizes dc power over ac power.
Coiled up tubing should not be coiled vertically but should be coiled horizontally. The way you have done it is harder for the oil to return back to the compressor. Each loop the oil has to go up then collects on the lower side of each loop then has to go up over the next loop and so on.
I think I remember reading somewhere that the MAX elevation between the 2 units is around 32ft. That would mean that as long as your total loop height added up isn't over 32ft, you are probably good to coil it up in either direction.
You said the newer ones are plug and cool, I bought mine a year ago, about to install it, do you know how to tell if it's plug and cool? I called signature solar and they told me the newer ones they sell now are not pre charged and the older ones are
Just looked at the website and it still says plug n cool do it yourself next to the listing. I called them too the day I installed it and they told me it was pre charged. Check your user manual, get whatever identification number off it and call them again.
@@grumpysdiy any moisture you add to the load (cooking,showers,humidifiers...ect) is latent heat or an additional load to the mechanical cooling system. In arid environments, swamp coolers are efective because evaporative cooling will add humidity to the living space.
@kenfishfisher7389 oh I guess the humidifier was in the video. Yea so the day I was installing it. The heat was like 102 and about 10% humidity. We had it on because our noses were dry as hell. We rarely run it now.
@@TheCrawdadman you don’t have to pull the vacuum, but it makes the unit last longer and is peace of mind, the pump was 25 dollars and makes the unit last a lot longer. But that’s if you get a unit with charged lines. If not you will have to add more Freon
Thanks for the video. I had to laugh when you said "because you're not going to be doing it in a fifth wheel like me" because I just put that exact unit in my fifth wheel. I have a built in electric fireplace in the end of my 29ft fifth wheel with cabinets above it. I was able to remove one of the doors on the upper cabinets and the indoor unit just barely fits without hitting the slide and hangs about 4in from the ceiling. I can still put everything back to factory if I want to. But I'd never do that because this thing is a game changer! I have about 300sqft and this unit is good for that PLUS another 1000sqft! Last night the bedroom on the other end of the RV was toasty warm with the fan only set at level 2. Turbo makes the blinds on the bedroom window blow around a little. I bought this so I could move away from propane and thought it would be a trade off. Instead it's clearly a trade up. I've only had it for 24hrs but it sweeps warm air across the entire floor and does a much better job of heating the floor than the propane. And now I don't have to refill propane all of the time. I mounted an RV service box on the back of my RV that is fed by a 50A cord that plugs into a 50A plug on the house. I changed the breaker in my new RV service from 50A to 20A so that I can run the minisplit off of it. I still have a spare 20A and a 30A receptacle on the RV service. I have a 30A plug on the house so I plug the RV into it, but if I'm traveling and only have a 50A plug then I can run my minisplit AND my 30A RV off of my little RV service. Pretty slick. Oh and I still have a 20A leftover to run my heated water hose. This thing looks factory, and I love it that it's enormously oversized for the space. No skirting and I'm ready for whatever winter throws at me.
Nice, it’s awesome when a plan comes together.
Nicely done. I NEVER seen anyone else do a temporary install like this until I did it this last weekend, almost exactly like yours, for the same reason. You had a different design than mine but I think yours would have been easier. Did you screw that directly into the window frame? Looks like it. I built a 2x4 frame for the opening, insulated the window edges with pipe insulation to protect it then sandwiched 2 pieces of ply on either side and screwed into the 2x4 frame. Cut a hole and mounted as you did. I will put mine up as well since I had nothing else to follow for this exact use case. Well done and thanks for sharing.
I did attach the plywood board to the frame of the window with 1” self tapping screws. I put that peel and stick door and window frame insulation on the edges of the window frame where the wood would contact. It’s been installed for nearly a year now with now issues. Sounds like yours is more reinforced and there’s nothing wrong with that. Thanks for the comment, and enjoy that sweet sweet cool air.
Great video gotta get those panels off the ground you could make a shade wall out of all of em
That’s not the permanent location for them, once we get the house we ordered they will be mounted on a diy rack.
Also as they lay they run the mini split for 12 hours out of the day. Not to shabby.
When operating in cooling mode, your trailer needs to be very level both front to back and side to side, or the condensate water will leak out of the drain pan.
Thanks
Good point and especially true in my case because the drain runs the full length of the minisplit before it turns down. There's some, but very little elevation drop in that space.
Awesome video
Thanks
Am I understanding that this is the new and improved version that comes preloaded with its freon and is literally plug and play or is there a step left out of the video that required you to charge the system for use and check it for leaks? I am seeing conflicting information online and obviously want the simplest installation without need of having to buy special tools and meters or hiring an hvac technician. Thankyou in advance!
Correct this is the newer unit called "Plug N Cool". No vacuum pump needed. It was very simple, the hardest part was making a frame for the window to mount it.
They all come precharged with freon. "DIY" units have a sealed line set with a spiffy valve in the connector to hold vacuum in the line. All other units come with the line set but aren't sealed and have to be evacuated with a pump before the charge can be released. Not anything difficult to do if you have a pump and educate yourself a little. It's not rocket science but the manufactures will void the warranties if not installed by a licensed HVAC tech that'll likely cost nearly as much as the unit. Gotcha!
But EG4 has the highest rated efficiencies out there at the moment and I think all of their mini's are DIY now. 9K being the only unit not MPPT capable but still DIY.
2tons of ac in a trailer wow
Yep, because when our double wide gets delivered I will install it on that. I didn’t want to buy two of them when I only need one.
I thought my 12K was overkill for my old class A 37 ft 🤣
How many watts of solar does it take to run this unit when running entirely on solar alone?
If I were to mount 2000 watts of panels and have it hooked to them and then have its 110 cord plugged into my inverter, is it “smart” so that it would use the solar all day long and then switch itself over to the 110 draw when the sun goes down? Thanks in advance for the help. I am nearly ready to order.
I’m guessing your looking at a 12k btu unit because the 24k one is 230v. The manuals for these units are on eg4’s website. But you want the voc of all the solar panels to be in a range specified by the manual, in series to not exceed 12 amps. For our 24k btu unit I put the max solar 8 370watt panels 41 voc each. So 41 x 8 = 328 voc total from the panels in series pushing 11 amps dc. Yes the unit prioritizes dc power over ac power.
Coiled up tubing should not be coiled vertically but should be coiled horizontally. The way you have done it is harder for the oil to return back to the compressor. Each loop the oil has to go up then collects on the lower side of each loop then has to go up over the next loop and so on.
Roger that.
I think I remember reading somewhere that the MAX elevation between the 2 units is around 32ft. That would mean that as long as your total loop height added up isn't over 32ft, you are probably good to coil it up in either direction.
Thank you.
You said the newer ones are plug and cool, I bought mine a year ago, about to install it, do you know how to tell if it's plug and cool? I called signature solar and they told me the newer ones they sell now are not pre charged and the older ones are
Just looked at the website and it still says plug n cool do it yourself next to the listing. I called them too the day I installed it and they told me it was pre charged. Check your user manual, get whatever identification number off it and call them again.
How do you switch from celsius to fahrenheit?
Has to be done in the app
You will love it alot more if you turn off your latent heat machine (humidifier)
I dont understand, but we could use some humidity as it’s pretty low here in the high dessert.
@@grumpysdiy That's fine...just keep in mind it takes a lot of energy to remove most of the moisture before an a/c can perform specific cooling.
Could you explain “turn off latent heat machine”? I want to learn. Also the system will only ever be solar, so free energy once it’s paid itself off.
@@grumpysdiy any moisture you add to the load (cooking,showers,humidifiers...ect) is latent heat or an additional load to the mechanical cooling system. In arid environments, swamp coolers are efective because evaporative cooling will add humidity to the living space.
@kenfishfisher7389 oh I guess the humidifier was in the video. Yea so the day I was installing it. The heat was like 102 and about 10% humidity. We had it on because our noses were dry as hell. We rarely run it now.
Pretty sure you should have pulled a vacuum on this. Helps the unit last longer.
I called EG4 to confirm before the install. EG4 assured me I did not need to.
@@grumpysdiy I’d still do it, it’s cheap and easy and helps the longevity of the compressor.
Isn't that the whole point of going with the DIY kit? So you don't have to buy the vacuum pump.
@@TheCrawdadman you don’t have to pull the vacuum, but it makes the unit last longer and is peace of mind, the pump was 25 dollars and makes the unit last a lot longer. But that’s if you get a unit with charged lines. If not you will have to add more Freon