Topic Question- is there anything different in your starting process/timeline for the different types of onions- red/burg, white, yellow, green, fresh vs storage, etc.? Thanks!
@@EnjoyTimeOutdoors-Steve We start all of them the same. The only difference is when they are harvested: we grow intermediate day onions as the purple (cabernet) and white (Sierra blanca) onions. Since they are intermediate day they start bulging sooner and we generally harvest those in early July. Our yellow storage onions are long day and usually aren't ready until the end of July. But we start both in mid January and plant both out around mid March. Hope that helps!
So glad it's helpful! We are definitely planning on being more consistent this season...I'm not sure we will get a video up every week but we will try!
Thank you!!!! I'm new to the northern climate. From the deep south. I wish this video was available years and years ago. Now I understand what I was doing wrong. I can't wait to try to grow onions again. Many years I wouldn't try planting them. I only tried from seeds. The other ways wasn't always available and when it was they were expensive. Again, thank you🎉
OMG. BEST ONION VIDEO I HAVE EVER SEEN!!! I'm so glad this was.. I've watched so many videos about onions in the past and I'm so grateful that you showed each step even with photos from the year before.. this makes me very excited to grow onions again..
New to channel and really enjoyed it. You explain everything in a easy to follow way and pack a lot of info in video. Thank you so o much from a long time gardener who always has problems growing big onions!!
Very nice video. You covered everything. I'm in zone 4A in northern Wisconsin I started my onions last week on January 24th. I did 2000 seeds. I do 1 1/2 x 11/2 x 11/2 soil blocks with three seeds per block. I plant blocks about 6 inches apart and harvest 2 of the 3 plants per block as green onions to sell early at a farmers market. That leaves my Pattersons to grow big and bulb out. There are so many different ways to grow onions, and again you did a wonderful job explaining to folks just starting out how to grow onions from seed. Nice job! Paul Lueders Clear Sky Farm, Lac du Flambeau, Wisconsin
@@wendytipon6020 Hi Wendy, A fellow "Cheesehead" I see. If you are starting onion seeds indoors I would start them right now. I started mine last week.
This answered so many of my questions! I had no idea what the short, intermediate and long day meant. Now I know why I have had such a hard time! That and using older onion seeds. I am in zone 8b, so I need short day seeds. Thank you both so much for all this information!❤
Oh good! Yes, that's probably the most confusing part about onions. I believe short day onions are often overwintered in those growing zones (fall planting). Best of luck!
A lot of great information. I am in NW Ohio zone 6b and I recently started onions for the first time from seeds. I will be following your channel to learn as much as I can about gardening. Moving from NYC to Ohio I am definitely a new gardener 👩🏽🌾
Well thank you and welcome aboard! Always good to follow along with people in similar growing zones. Hopefully we will have more consistent videos throughout the season to follow along with. Happy gardening!
I just ran across your channel for the first time. I'm also in zone 6b but in Tennessee, I,ve been gardening for over 25 years, After wathching for only several minutes I have already learned something about onions. I also started my onions from seeds this year. Thank you for the good information..
I'm impressed. I've been growing onions for a long time and your information is completely accurate (or at least consistent with my experience). I grow onions mostly for storage and I grow mainly two types: Patterson and Red Wing. Once in a while, I'll experiment with another variety (last year it was Ailsa Craig). Scallions, leeks, bunching/greening onions can be grown in a similar fashion, along with shallots. I like onions that store well. Patterson and Red Wing are good examples. One thing I discovered (based on a UA-cam video) is that (surprisingly) shallots, unlike onions, store well in the crisper section of the refrigerator. Thanks for the video.
Great to know! And thank you! We will have to look up Red Wing, haven’t tried that variety. We have been very happy with Cabernet, we still have some in storage after harvesting July 4th and they are still doing great! Best of luck this year!
@@TheGardenFamily I grew both Cabernet and Red Wing in the same season. They produced equally well but I gave the nod to Red Wing for my future red onion storage purposes. I do a lot of side-by-side trials to compare varieties (mostly peppers, tomatoes and onions). Last season I tried Ailsa Craig. Acceptable results with those. I also liked Walla Walla but they didn't seem to store as well. Do you have any other favourite varieties that I might try? I don't like growing unusually large bulbs, which I tend to get from both Red Wing and Patterson (also Cabernet). Right now, I'm looking for a good, medium-sized onion type. On a final note, last season I had at least 1/2 of my onion crop bolt. I haven't figured out why, as it was not an abnormal growing season. If it happens again this season, I'll have to get serious and try a few different approaches. Cheers.
Great video and info! I can't wait to start my onions here in snowy CO. I started from seed last year, but got very small onions. I'm looking forward to trying again.
Very informative video, appreciate the talking points. Question about watering, do I let the soil to dry out between watering or keep it consistently moist
@ I think it looks nice and can be stored compact. In our climate it is better to braid them after they have dried however rather than drying them in a braid. Drying them separately allows better air flow around the onion
Great video! Will you be doing others so we see each process? Setting up & Watering with fertilizer into 3 gallons Up-potting to 72 cell tray Transplanting Fertilizing Harvest/storing Cooking I would love to see a series that I can follow along with. 😊
I'm in SW Ohio 6b. I don't have the room or setup to have a seed starting area in my basement. I ordered 2 types of bunching onion seeds last night. One of them is Red of Florence which I now understand isn't actually quite like regular bunching onions. Anyway, I think I might start some from seed to see how it goes. I'll just direct sow the other seeds once the temperature is high enough. I grew red onions for the first time last year using transplants from the big box store, so I'll probably do that again before trying from seed. Good info. Thanks!
When transplanting onion seedlings into a larger pot how deep do you plant them? Then transplanting again into a raised garden bed, how deep do you plant them? Fo you plant deep enough to cover the bulb or a portion on the bulb showing above the soil?
up potting usually just a 1/2-3/4 inch or so because they are small at that point. When transplanting outside usually 1-1.5 inches. As the bulb grows it will naturally push out of the soil so you don't need to plant them really shallow. Hope that helps!
This was so informative. I’ve never been shown planting so early. Is there another plants that is sown in January and planted in Late April. Also is green onions done this way.
The only other plant we have started in January that works well are pansies, otherwise most of our cool weather plants we start mid February (such as Broccoli, cabbage etc) to plant out early April
a few weeks before last frost is a general rule of thumb. Harden them off though, that's important to do and easy for onions since they don't have thin delicate leaves.
Thank you so much...I've had onion seeds but never planted because I heard it takes 2 years to get a bulb, so I've been buying starts. I'm in CT and the last frost date is around the same as yours, so I'm definitely going to try those seeds ... New Friend/Subbie ... here to stay 😊
Oh good! Yes, you should get bulbs first year. It’s only if you want seeds that you generally have to wait until year 2 :). Thanks for following along! 🙏
Bummer, someone steered you wrong, they bulb the first year. I do seeds but have spotty germination success so usually do sets as well, so easy on those and rarely do they bolt on me and if some do I get free seed so I'm happy.
Great video! I am trying to be more sustainable with my seeds. Do you know how I would grow a few extra onions for seed since they are biannual? Thanks!
@@ErikaB88 you definitely can! You would want to grow an open pollinated type onion such as Walla Walla for example. You can leave them in the ground in milder climates or you can harvest them and plant them back out in the garden next late winter / early spring. They usually produce seeds their second season. We usually buy our seeds however so we aren’t experts in this!
Thank you for a very informative video. We are at lat. 32 and usually grow about 1000 Onions per year. Last year we had a rotten layer in most of our Onions, about 4 or 5 layers from the outside. Any suggestions what could be the cause would be greatly appreciated.
I saw that happen to someone on one the homesteading videos this past year...I wonder if it was because of too much rain? 🤷♀I'm in CT and I was worried because we had a lot rain in the beginning last summer too...just a thought 😊
Hmm, so far we haven’t had that problem. Sometimes you can get rot if they are harvested too early (before the neck flops over) or if they are not fully cured prior to storage. I believe @itsbreellis had a similar problem (she gardens in Kansas) but I can’t remember what she felt the cause or solution was. Hope you have better results this year!
Whatever your moist cool, dry place is generally works well. Just make sure it has decent air flow (so not in a tight cupboard). Short term you can hang them braided in your kitchen but the warmth will make them not store as long
spring was so early last year, i ended up transplanting my onions March 1. i usually aim for St. Patty's day, which is already kinda pushing it in my region, but i usually need the seed starting space by then, so i use floating row covers for the first few weeks.
We planted out March 1st last year as well, super early season! I agree, usually mid March for us as well. And we also put a fleece cover over our onions in the very early season even though they can tolerate pretty cold temps. Sounds like you have a great system!
I recently learned about long and short day. I’m in central Florida and I bought short day and they’re already in the ground I hope I’m not to late to get some decent size bulbs, but we’ll see if love to harvest my own I buy onions every time I go to the store.
Best of luck with your onions! I agree, onions are such a useful ingredient in so many recipes. It's fun to grow strange exotic vegetables but it's a lot more useful to have a cellar full of staples to grab at any time!
What to do when the tops never flop over? My onions stayed up all summer. Here in January they are still green and growing. How do I know when to harvest?
Hmm, I’m wondering if maybe they were not appropriate for your latitude? I’ve heard more southern gardeners trying to grow long day onions and they never fully matured. If the necks don’t flop the onions will still taste good but often won’t store very well so you may want to chop and freeze them
I'm in 5b and we just ordered our onion seed. Patterson and Ailsa Craig will be in our onion bed this year. I haven't found a good red onion for our area yet.
Best of luck this year Mark! We are trying the Ailsa Craig for the first time this year, have you grown them in the past? We really like Cabernet for red but it is intermediate day so it may have a harder time bulbing in 5b
@@TheGardenFamily We are just the opposite. Ailsa Craig is our go to for big mild onions but it doesn't store great. This will be our fourth year growing it. Patterson is our trial onion this year. I was looking for an onion that would be a better storage onion. BTW - I cure our onions and garlic the exact same way as you with wire racks. I had to put wood rails on the edge to keep the Ailsa Craig onions from rolling off. They are more oblong than the short globe varieties so as they dry they can tip over and roll. I'll have to see about the Cabernet. Johnny's Seed gives the latitudes that their onions are best at. We are at 42 lat. so we trial mostly long day onions. I like your method of up potting the baby onions to single cells before they go out to the bed. I have to try that. I always have such a tangled mess of roots. I know it can't be good for limiting the transplant shock. Our short season means every day of growth counts.
Can you tell me where your purchased the lumbar for your raised beds. Also where you purchased your straw bales. I am close by Dayton and looking to get set up with something similar.
We just got the lumber from Home Depot. Their delivery is relatively reasonable for large amounts. Seems like prices fluctuate with lumber so hopefully if you purchase it you can get it when it's on the lower end. For straw bales we usually just look on FB marketplace and find someone who actually grew the wheat so you can discuss their growing practices and make sure it wasn't sprayed with anything that could cause harm
@@Cocodaballer thank you! We order seeds online (Johnnys Seeds is usually our go-to). I’ve also found it hard to find onion seeds in the store in January when we need to start them, most of the time stores don’t put the seeds out until Spring unfortunately. Best of luck!
My biggest reason for growing onions from seed is simply because I can - and I want to know that I can, What happens during some future pandemic or global situation and I can't get to a Lowe's Garden Center to get onion starts, or they don't have onion starts. I grow my onions from seed and I save my own seeds. It's all very easy to do, and it ensures that I have the means to feed my family. I have onion seeds that I put in the freezer 5 years ago that I will be testing this year to see how well freezing helps with the short life of onion seeds. I'm hoping it works better than Peter's test.
I start my seeds in a Mylar grow room, in 10x20 trays on wire shelves. I use 20 to 30 dollar grow lights intended to be inches from the plat tops, so one set of 6 cheap, low power, grow lights will do two to three shelves. I've grown tomatoes this way from seed to fruiting. You don't need those 400 dollar lights that Peter uses - to each their own, I suppose, so if you want to spend that kind of money and want your entire shelving system to represent a single environment for your plants, then you can do it his way. If you want much lower cost, environment controlled per shelf, then try mine. Note that Peter mentioned he had tried it my way (not knowing me or "my way") with lower power lights within inches of the plants and chose to go to the high-power lights. So he made that choice knowingly and, therefore, it was the perfect choice for him and how he wants to work. And other than the choice of lights, what they are doing is exactly how I've been growing seedlings for a very long time. In fact, I have learned plenty from their videos, as well. I'm not being critical; I'm simply pointing out that there are different ways to get the job done and whatever works for a person is exactly the way that person should do it. Read and watch videos from a lot of ways to do the job. Try as many different ways, while continuing also with the ways that have been successful for you, and see if any of the other ways people do things work better for your personal circumstances. Keep trying new ways, keep learning, and keep growing your own food.
I start my seeds in a Mylar grow room, in 10x20 trays on wire shelves. I use 20 to 30 dollar grow lights intended to be inches from the plat tops, so one set of 6 cheap, low power, grow lights will do two to three shelves. I've grown tomatoes this way from seed to fruiting. You don't need those 400 dollar lights that Peter uses - to each their own, I suppose, so if you want to spend that kind of money and want your entire shelving system to represent a single environment for your plants, then you can do it his way. If you want much lower cost, environment controlled per shelf, then try mine. Note that Peter mentioned he had tried it my way (not knowing me or "my way") with lower power lights within inches of the plants and chose to go to the high-power lights. So he made that choice knowingly and, therefore, it was the perfect choice for him and how he wants to work. And other than the choice of lights, what they are doing is exactly how I've been growing seedlings for a very long time. In fact, I have learned plenty from their videos, as well. I'm not being critical; I'm simply pointing out that there are different ways to get the job done and whatever works for a person is exactly the way that person should do it. Read and watch videos from a lot of ways to do the job. Try as many different ways, while continuing also with the ways that have been successful for you, and see if any of the other ways people do things work better for your personal circumstances. Keep trying new ways, keep learning, and keep growing your own food.
BT, bascillus thurengensis work great! It's an organic soil derived bacteria in liquid form you mix with water and spray on your plants. The caterpillars will have to eat it and when they do it kills their stomach and they all die big time. I always use that and it's not a nasty chemical that kills everything, just a natural bacteria that kills caterplillars.
Do you trim your onions down at any point while they are growing? I noticed in the video that when you were planting them outdoors, they were cut so I was wondering at what times during the whole growth cycle do you cut them back. Thanks!
I live at 41.6 degrees latitude, which is a little farther north than you, and I want to try Candy onions, which is a day neutral or intermediate day onion. I started them on Jan. 13, thinking they definitely need to be started in good time because they will start to bulb earlier than my long day onions. I am guessing that they won't get to their maximum size, though. Is starting them early and getting them planted outside as early as I can the best strategy I can follow?
We do very well with intermediate day onions here, I’m sure they will still do fine. The zones aren’t black and white cut offs. I agree with your plan to get out relatively big transplants because you will want to maximize growth as they will start bulbing up usually early June to harvest in early July. So the longer they can grow in the ground the bigger the onion!
I’d say somewhere Feb 1st ideally. As far as the containers vs 72 cell trays I’ve found it much better because you can broadcast seed and then transplant individual transplants into the cells. Otherwise you would either need to over seed and cut some plants or, more commonly, have spotty germination and then cells that have no plants at all.
Yes, generally about 6 weeks. We usually plant out mid March. But last year we were able to get them in the ground March 1st. We generally will start looking at the long term forecast early Mar and if we have a string of mild weather we plant them out. They are very cold hardy
Now I know how much I DON'T know! I almost gave up last year because I was overwhelmed by how many rules there are for each type of plant. This year, I am going to cut down on varieties and stick to about 5 types of vegetables. Hopefully onions will be one of them.
It's a lot to learn! After 20+ years we still make mistakes every year...just have to think of them as learning opportunities. Best of luck in your garden this year!
You definitely could! We find in general that once you get the soil moist with the humidity dome we don't have to water initially because the humidity dome doesn't make it lose any moisture. After the seedlings are only in for another week or so. Because of this we don't find it necessary but you definitely could and it would work just fine!
How many hours a day do you have grow lights on? I tried two different batches last year and both failed😂 I'm in north central ohio and did manage to grow some nice seeds last year. I'm gonna try again this year🤞
We keep our grow lights on 16 hours a day. Some people are afraid to keep them on that long just in case it will induce bulb formation but we haven’t found that to be a problem with our seedlings
I hear 12/12 is good to do for a seedling light schedule. But they're so small I doubt longer light would trick them into bulbing, at that point I think they want root growth more as a priority.
@@briarmunro good question! The hardening off process is more to get them used to the cold than anything else. We usually get them outside the end of Feb and early March as much as possible, including leaving them out overnight if temps are 30+F. When we plant them out we usually put them under a fleece row cover which gives a bit of cold and sun protection as well
@@TheGardenFamily Hardening off is as much about building strength in the stem to withstand the wind as it is about temperature. Even if you're transplanting in warm weather, you should harden for the stem.
I live in the mountains in the pacific northwest and my day length is about 2 hours shorter due to sun dipping behind mountains, do I need to choose shorter day seeds?
Hmm, good question. I believe you would still use your normal full day as even in the shade it should still be light out? But I don't know for sure. Let us know what worked for you if you try this season!
Hi guys! I'm in central Missouri zone 6a-6b. I just purchased onions before seeing your video and didn't know about the long day/short day/intermediate. I went back to check my order and I have bought two long day and one short day. I guess it will be an experiment to see if I can grow them here. I would reorder but it looks like everyone has the same idea and now most onion seeds are sold out. Do you think I can get away with either of these growing? Thanks for the great info!!
@@rebeccawolf3196 oops! I think you are probably north enough to trigger bulbing on the long day but you might get smaller onions. The short day onions usually need to be grown through the winter, the else are generally grown in southern climates and planted in fall and harvested in spring. Since you have the seeds I would try them but I would suspect you would get pretty small onions with them. If you can find them or for next season sierra Blanca and Cabernet are two great intermediate day types we grow!
I like in the north, New Hampshire and it kills me that nearly all the onion seed you can find here at a store are short day like "Texas Grano" etc. People who order the seeds don't know what they're doing.
I fill my trays half full with water, then add the potting medium. Makes for a non-disruptive method of hydrating the medium. By the way, onion seed is like wheat, it’s viable for one year. That’s it.
Growing bunching onions is basically the same process, only difference is there is no long or short day types for bunching onions. And you might want to succession sow them so that you'll have some over a longer part of the season.
There are no holes in the little trays I start with. They are just for initial germination and a week or so of growth, after that we will put them in 72 cell trays that have drainage holes
I’m sure this time of year it’s nice to be down there! I don’t have any specific recs for short day onions as I’ve never grown them. Perhaps connect with your local extension? My understanding is onions are best grown as fall plantings where you are and then harvested in spring
It really depends on the type of onion. If you planted in February in the ground usually you are in a warmer climate and often choosing intermediate day onions. These are usually harvested late June or early July. Do you know what variety?
@@DollyPerry-t5e oh darn! I knew we would forget some things. For trimming it is to make sure the onions don’t flop over and also to make sure they don’t compete for light. So we usually give them a “haircut” and keep them about 5-6 inches tall. We usually do this on the evening so they can initially heal in the dark and not lose too much moisture. They do great with it!
@@DollyPerry-t5etrimming them is not beneficial beyond making them easier to untangle when transplanting, but there is no evidence that it improves productivity…on the contrary, the data shows it actually reduces yield and increases susceptibility to disease. The leaves are vital to photosynthesis, and the more leaf area there is the more sugars the plant will produce, thus providing more energy to be stored in the bulb, therby requiring the formation of a larger bulb to store said sugars.
Great information. I too have had problems with roots getting tangled and making it hard to transplant. Last year I started all my onion seeds in 1-gallon pots. No more tangled roots. Well, not as bad, but still easier
@@crystalmckinniss4699 we have grown Walla Walla, Sweet Spanish Yellow Utah Jumbo and Patterson. The first two are arguably a bit sweeter but the Patterson store the best so that’s what we grow most of!
They definitely like higher nitrogen content and need regular water since they have shallow roots (but don't overdo it, they like well drained soil). Just make sure to pick the right onion and get your timing right as well!
@TheGardenFamily I plant as soon as the Amish start selling their onion bundles. And, I plant three different kinds. Onions and brussel sprouts always give me trouble. I can't get big yields.
Ur Brave the Dark advertisement just caused me a panic attack ... I couldn't find my volume control... I can't visit ur site if this might happen again...
Intro Ad and then another Ad at 1 minute 10 seconds... In between two advertisements the only thing I learned was it was January 13th... Hopefully the video improves
Try sets, the little cocktail onion size bulbs, I did for years and it couldn't be easier and I always had good luck with them. Just bury about half way down the bulb and walk away. They get a bad rap I think is undeserved.
Well vented: after curing remove the top, drop in the toe of a pair of pantyhose, tie off, drop the next one in, tie off, repeat. Hang in a cool, dry place.
If there are any questions we didn’t answer please let us know in the comments! Thanks for watching 😊🙏 Hilary & Peter
Topic Question- is there anything different in your starting process/timeline for the different types of onions- red/burg, white, yellow, green, fresh vs storage, etc.? Thanks!
@@EnjoyTimeOutdoors-Steve We start all of them the same. The only difference is when they are harvested: we grow intermediate day onions as the purple (cabernet) and white (Sierra blanca) onions. Since they are intermediate day they start bulging sooner and we generally harvest those in early July. Our yellow storage onions are long day and usually aren't ready until the end of July. But we start both in mid January and plant both out around mid March. Hope that helps!
How far apart are you planting your onions?
I might have missed it, but how many seeds should I put in a seed cell? My seed cells are 1.5 x 2 inches I think 72 count. Thanks!!
@@EnjoyTimeOutdoors-Steve They're pretty much the same. Plant spacing is different from a green onion to a large bulbed storage onion.
When planting outside how deep do you plant the onions as well as how far apart do you plant them?
That’s my question. The few times I’ve tried onions, they never get big, so I end up with pretty much scallions. I’m not good at gardening
Please keep these videos coming week by week for planting. This was incredibly helpful. I am in NW Ohio and so appreciate this content!!
So glad it's helpful! We are definitely planning on being more consistent this season...I'm not sure we will get a video up every week but we will try!
Me too, I'm in Pa
Thank you!!!! I'm new to the northern climate. From the deep south. I wish this video was available years and years ago. Now I understand what I was doing wrong. I can't wait to try to grow onions again. Many years I wouldn't try planting them. I only tried from seeds. The other ways wasn't always available and when it was they were expensive. Again, thank you🎉
OMG. BEST ONION VIDEO I HAVE EVER SEEN!!! I'm so glad this was.. I've watched so many videos about onions in the past and I'm so grateful that you showed each step even with photos from the year before.. this makes me very excited to grow onions again..
New to channel and really enjoyed it. You explain everything in a easy to follow way and pack a lot of info in video. Thank you so o much from a long time gardener who always has problems growing big onions!!
Thank you Carol, so glad it was helpful for you! Hope you have success with your onions this year!
Very nice video. You covered everything. I'm in zone 4A in northern Wisconsin I started my onions last week on January 24th. I did 2000 seeds. I do 1 1/2 x 11/2 x 11/2 soil blocks with three seeds per block. I plant blocks about 6 inches apart and harvest 2 of the 3 plants per block as green onions to sell early at a farmers market. That leaves my Pattersons to grow big and bulb out. There are so many different ways to grow onions, and again you did a wonderful job explaining to folks just starting out how to grow onions from seed. Nice job!
Paul Lueders
Clear Sky Farm, Lac du Flambeau, Wisconsin
Thanks for saying were you are from, Wautoma wisconsin and was wondering when to start my onions.
@@wendytipon6020 Hi Wendy, A fellow "Cheesehead" I see. If you are starting onion seeds indoors I would start them right now. I started mine last week.
@paullueders5218 thanks!!🧀
This answered so many of my questions! I had no idea what the short, intermediate and long day meant. Now I know why I have had such a hard time! That and using older onion seeds. I am in zone 8b, so I need short day seeds. Thank you both so much for all this information!❤
Oh good! Yes, that's probably the most confusing part about onions. I believe short day onions are often overwintered in those growing zones (fall planting). Best of luck!
A lot of great information. I am in NW Ohio zone 6b and I recently started onions for the first time from seeds. I will be following your channel to learn as much as I can about gardening. Moving from NYC to Ohio I am definitely a new gardener 👩🏽🌾
Well thank you and welcome aboard! Always good to follow along with people in similar growing zones. Hopefully we will have more consistent videos throughout the season to follow along with. Happy gardening!
Thank you!! Central Ohio here. I've never had great success with onions. I've planted sets and only got small onions. I'm going to try seeds.
I just ran across your channel for the first time. I'm also in zone 6b but in Tennessee, I,ve been gardening for over 25 years, After wathching for only several minutes I have already learned something about onions. I also started my onions from seeds this year. Thank you for the good information..
Welcome aboard and so happy it was helpful! We were zone 6a before but changed to 6b with the recent update. Best of luck in the garden this year!
I'm in CT and I just came upon this channel as well and I agree, some great information on this channel 😊
Thanks for sharing all this useful information. I'm a NE Ohio, zone 6a gardener so I find your content very useful.
@@jasonyoder2187 so glad it was helpful! Definitely good to follow people on similar growing zones!
I'm impressed. I've been growing onions for a long time and your information is completely accurate (or at least consistent with my experience). I grow onions mostly for storage and I grow mainly two types: Patterson and Red Wing. Once in a while, I'll experiment with another variety (last year it was Ailsa Craig).
Scallions, leeks, bunching/greening onions can be grown in a similar fashion, along with shallots. I like onions that store well. Patterson and Red Wing are good examples. One thing I discovered (based on a UA-cam video) is that (surprisingly) shallots, unlike onions, store well in the crisper section of the refrigerator.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the Shallots tip! 😊
Great to know! And thank you! We will have to look up Red Wing, haven’t tried that variety. We have been very happy with Cabernet, we still have some in storage after harvesting July 4th and they are still doing great! Best of luck this year!
@@TheGardenFamily I grew both Cabernet and Red Wing in the same season. They produced equally well but I gave the nod to Red Wing for my future red onion storage purposes. I do a lot of side-by-side trials to compare varieties (mostly peppers, tomatoes and onions). Last season I tried Ailsa Craig. Acceptable results with those. I also liked Walla Walla but they didn't seem to store as well.
Do you have any other favourite varieties that I might try? I don't like growing unusually large bulbs, which I tend to get from both Red Wing and Patterson (also Cabernet). Right now, I'm looking for a good, medium-sized onion type.
On a final note, last season I had at least 1/2 of my onion crop bolt. I haven't figured out why, as it was not an abnormal growing season. If it happens again this season, I'll have to get serious and try a few different approaches.
Cheers.
Another wonderful video- concise and very informative. Excellent work, thank you!
Thanks Steve, glad it was helpful!!
Great video! Do you have a way you track what seeds you’re starting when to be on top of succession planting?
I gotta go check all my seeds now. Thank you!!
You're welcome, best of luck!
Excellent information. Thank you so much. I live in Mississippi and now know why I've never been successful 😊
Me too! Close to Slidell LA
You're very welcome! Onions are a bit tricky to grow but very rewarding =)
Great video and info! I can't wait to start my onions here in snowy CO. I started from seed last year, but got very small onions. I'm looking forward to trying again.
Thank you! Best of luck with your onions this year!
Just east of STL, I'm firmly in both intermediate day and long day. They both grow well and I love it!
Perfect! That’s about where we are too. It’s a good latitude for onions, lots of options :)
Very informative video, appreciate the talking points. Question about watering, do I let the soil to dry out between watering or keep it consistently moist
@@BriannaJames-dk6yn thank you! We will generally let it dry out slightly between waterings to reduce fungal gnats inside
Great question! 😊
What's your opinion on braiding stems for long storage
@ I think it looks nice and can be stored compact. In our climate it is better to braid them after they have dried however rather than drying them in a braid. Drying them separately allows better air flow around the onion
Great question!
I am in southeast missouri and never had my onion to bulb. Now, i may know why i just subscribe and hope i learn more
Great video!
Will you be doing others so we see each process?
Setting up & Watering with fertilizer into 3 gallons
Up-potting to 72 cell tray
Transplanting
Fertilizing
Harvest/storing
Cooking
I would love to see a series that I can follow along with. 😊
So glad all this info is helpful! We are going to try to post more regularly so others can follow along on the wins and fails of this year!
Can you use plastic to cover the seeds for them germinate?
Great and useful information!
Thank you so so much 🙏🏻
You’re amazing!!!
Keep doing this wonderful job ❤️
@@melissa7777m thank you so much Melissa! Glad it was helpful and thank you for the encouragement 😊🙏
I'm in SW Ohio 6b. I don't have the room or setup to have a seed starting area in my basement. I ordered 2 types of bunching onion seeds last night. One of them is Red of Florence which I now understand isn't actually quite like regular bunching onions. Anyway, I think I might start some from seed to see how it goes. I'll just direct sow the other seeds once the temperature is high enough. I grew red onions for the first time last year using transplants from the big box store, so I'll probably do that again before trying from seed. Good info. Thanks!
Best of luck! The timing can be tough so for those that don’t have a seed starting area inside transplants may be a better option
This was a great video. Very informative. Thank you
Thank you Linda, glad it was helpful! =)
When transplanting onion seedlings into a larger pot how deep do you plant them?
Then transplanting again into a raised garden bed, how deep do you plant them? Fo you plant deep enough to cover the bulb or a portion on the bulb showing above the soil?
up potting usually just a 1/2-3/4 inch or so because they are small at that point. When transplanting outside usually 1-1.5 inches. As the bulb grows it will naturally push out of the soil so you don't need to plant them really shallow. Hope that helps!
You two are ADORABLE ❤❤❤
This was so informative. I’ve never been shown planting so early. Is there another plants that is sown in January and planted in Late April. Also is green onions done this way.
The only other plant we have started in January that works well are pansies, otherwise most of our cool weather plants we start mid February (such as Broccoli, cabbage etc) to plant out early April
Very helpful.. as all of your videos are! Thank you!
You're very welcome, thank you for watching and commenting! =)
also in 6b Missouri, definitely following. Big fan of ailsa craig onion
thanks for sharing - i learned everything i had been doing wrong - will do better this year - thanks
We’re so glad this was helpful, best of luck this year!
Just found you guys and I'm super excited to get started with my onions! I live in 6b as well. I think I missed when you said to plant these outside?
Welcome! We usually plant out mid March but last year it was March 1st because we were so warm
a few weeks before last frost is a general rule of thumb. Harden them off though, that's important to do and easy for onions since they don't have thin delicate leaves.
Thank you so much...I've had onion seeds but never planted because I heard it takes 2 years to get a bulb, so I've been buying starts. I'm in CT and the last frost date is around the same as yours, so I'm definitely going to try those seeds ... New Friend/Subbie ... here to stay 😊
Oh good! Yes, you should get bulbs first year. It’s only if you want seeds that you generally have to wait until year 2 :). Thanks for following along! 🙏
Bummer, someone steered you wrong, they bulb the first year. I do seeds but have spotty germination success so usually do sets as well, so easy on those and rarely do they bolt on me and if some do I get free seed so I'm happy.
@@cowboyblacksmith Thank you! I already ordered my starts, but will definitely also try my seeds this year 🙂
Hi. Did you allow for drainage in your to go containers? I think this essential. Plenty good info. Thanks.
Is there a reason to not initially just start them in the cell trays so you can skip a step of transplanting?
Great video! I am trying to be more sustainable with my seeds. Do you know how I would grow a few extra onions for seed since they are biannual? Thanks!
@@ErikaB88 you definitely can! You would want to grow an open pollinated type onion such as Walla Walla for example. You can leave them in the ground in milder climates or you can harvest them and plant them back out in the garden next late winter / early spring. They usually produce seeds their second season. We usually buy our seeds however so we aren’t experts in this!
Thank you for a very informative video. We are at lat. 32 and usually grow about 1000 Onions per year. Last year we had a rotten layer in most of our Onions, about 4 or 5 layers from the outside. Any suggestions what could be the cause would be greatly appreciated.
I saw that happen to someone on one the homesteading videos this past year...I wonder if it was because of too much rain? 🤷♀I'm in CT and I was worried because we had a lot rain in the beginning last summer too...just a thought 😊
Hmm, so far we haven’t had that problem. Sometimes you can get rot if they are harvested too early (before the neck flops over) or if they are not fully cured prior to storage. I believe @itsbreellis had a similar problem (she gardens in Kansas) but I can’t remember what she felt the cause or solution was. Hope you have better results this year!
For storage purposes, whats your recommendation if i dont have a cellar or basement to store them after curing? Thank you
Whatever your moist cool, dry place is generally works well. Just make sure it has decent air flow (so not in a tight cupboard). Short term you can hang them braided in your kitchen but the warmth will make them not store as long
spring was so early last year, i ended up transplanting my onions March 1. i usually aim for St. Patty's day, which is already kinda pushing it in my region, but i usually need the seed starting space by then, so i use floating row covers for the first few weeks.
We planted out March 1st last year as well, super early season! I agree, usually mid March for us as well. And we also put a fleece cover over our onions in the very early season even though they can tolerate pretty cold temps. Sounds like you have a great system!
I recently learned about long and short day. I’m in central Florida and I bought short day and they’re already in the ground I hope I’m not to late to get some decent size bulbs, but we’ll see if love to harvest my own I buy onions every time I go to the store.
Best of luck with your onions! I agree, onions are such a useful ingredient in so many recipes. It's fun to grow strange exotic vegetables but it's a lot more useful to have a cellar full of staples to grab at any time!
Yr onions are looking awesome.
Thank you Laurel!
What to do when the tops never flop over? My onions stayed up all summer. Here in January they are still green and growing. How do I know when to harvest?
Hmm, I’m wondering if maybe they were not appropriate for your latitude? I’ve heard more southern gardeners trying to grow long day onions and they never fully matured. If the necks don’t flop the onions will still taste good but often won’t store very well so you may want to chop and freeze them
I'm in 5b and we just ordered our onion seed. Patterson and Ailsa Craig will be in our onion bed this year. I haven't found a good red onion for our area yet.
Best of luck this year Mark! We are trying the Ailsa Craig for the first time this year, have you grown them in the past? We really like Cabernet for red but it is intermediate day so it may have a harder time bulbing in 5b
@@TheGardenFamily We are just the opposite. Ailsa Craig is our go to for big mild onions but it doesn't store great. This will be our fourth year growing it. Patterson is our trial onion this year. I was looking for an onion that would be a better storage onion. BTW - I cure our onions and garlic the exact same way as you with wire racks. I had to put wood rails on the edge to keep the Ailsa Craig onions from rolling off. They are more oblong than the short globe varieties so as they dry they can tip over and roll.
I'll have to see about the Cabernet. Johnny's Seed gives the latitudes that their onions are best at. We are at 42 lat. so we trial mostly long day onions.
I like your method of up potting the baby onions to single cells before they go out to the bed. I have to try that. I always have such a tangled mess of roots. I know it can't be good for limiting the transplant shock. Our short season means every day of growth counts.
If you grow Patterson (we do as well), you should be able to grow Red Wing, which is also good for storage.
How much organic fertilizer do you feed them once in the garden & how often ? Do you feed them granular fertilizer like 13-13-13 ?
Can you tell me where your purchased the lumbar for your raised beds. Also where you purchased your straw bales. I am close by Dayton and looking to get set up with something similar.
We just got the lumber from Home Depot. Their delivery is relatively reasonable for large amounts. Seems like prices fluctuate with lumber so hopefully if you purchase it you can get it when it's on the lower end. For straw bales we usually just look on FB marketplace and find someone who actually grew the wheat so you can discuss their growing practices and make sure it wasn't sprayed with anything that could cause harm
Amazing ideas
Thank you!
Peter, love the content. I am in SW Ohio and having a lot of trouble finding onion seeds in store. Where do you purchase yours?
@@Cocodaballer thank you! We order seeds online (Johnnys Seeds is usually our go-to). I’ve also found it hard to find onion seeds in the store in January when we need to start them, most of the time stores don’t put the seeds out until Spring unfortunately. Best of luck!
@@Cocodaballer I just bought my seeds from Baker's Creek. I have had very good luck with most of this company's seeds. They are based in MO.
Rural king has seeds out ! Dollar tree does also. I haven't been anywhere else that had seeds out yet. We like bakers also.
Good information 😊
My biggest reason for growing onions from seed is simply because I can - and I want to know that I can, What happens during some future pandemic or global situation and I can't get to a Lowe's Garden Center to get onion starts, or they don't have onion starts. I grow my onions from seed and I save my own seeds. It's all very easy to do, and it ensures that I have the means to feed my family.
I have onion seeds that I put in the freezer 5 years ago that I will be testing this year to see how well freezing helps with the short life of onion seeds. I'm hoping it works better than Peter's test.
Hi what if you do not have a grow light? I want to start my onion seeds but do not have a light.
I start my seeds in a Mylar grow room, in 10x20 trays on wire shelves. I use 20 to 30 dollar grow lights intended to be inches from the plat tops, so one set of 6 cheap, low power, grow lights will do two to three shelves. I've grown tomatoes this way from seed to fruiting. You don't need those 400 dollar lights that Peter uses - to each their own, I suppose, so if you want to spend that kind of money and want your entire shelving system to represent a single environment for your plants, then you can do it his way. If you want much lower cost, environment controlled per shelf, then try mine.
Note that Peter mentioned he had tried it my way (not knowing me or "my way") with lower power lights within inches of the plants and chose to go to the high-power lights. So he made that choice knowingly and, therefore, it was the perfect choice for him and how he wants to work. And other than the choice of lights, what they are doing is exactly how I've been growing seedlings for a very long time. In fact, I have learned plenty from their videos, as well. I'm not being critical; I'm simply pointing out that there are different ways to get the job done and whatever works for a person is exactly the way that person should do it.
Read and watch videos from a lot of ways to do the job. Try as many different ways, while continuing also with the ways that have been successful for you, and see if any of the other ways people do things work better for your personal circumstances. Keep trying new ways, keep learning, and keep growing your own food.
I start my seeds in a Mylar grow room, in 10x20 trays on wire shelves. I use 20 to 30 dollar grow lights intended to be inches from the plat tops, so one set of 6 cheap, low power, grow lights will do two to three shelves. I've grown tomatoes this way from seed to fruiting. You don't need those 400 dollar lights that Peter uses - to each their own, I suppose, so if you want to spend that kind of money and want your entire shelving system to represent a single environment for your plants, then you can do it his way. If you want much lower cost, environment controlled per shelf, then try mine.
Note that Peter mentioned he had tried it my way (not knowing me or "my way") with lower power lights within inches of the plants and chose to go to the high-power lights. So he made that choice knowingly and, therefore, it was the perfect choice for him and how he wants to work. And other than the choice of lights, what they are doing is exactly how I've been growing seedlings for a very long time. In fact, I have learned plenty from their videos, as well. I'm not being critical; I'm simply pointing out that there are different ways to get the job done and whatever works for a person is exactly the way that person should do it.
Read and watch videos from a lot of ways to do the job. Try as many different ways, while continuing also with the ways that have been successful for you, and see if any of the other ways people do things work better for your personal circumstances. Keep trying new ways, keep learning, and keep growing your own food.
Can you do a video on how to keep worms from eating your brocolli and cabbage and cauliflower, please
We will definitely address that this growing season =)
@@TheGardenFamily thank you!
Row covers and nontoxic sprays
BT, bascillus thurengensis work great! It's an organic soil derived bacteria in liquid form you mix with water and spray on your plants. The caterpillars will have to eat it and when they do it kills their stomach and they all die big time. I always use that and it's not a nasty chemical that kills everything, just a natural bacteria that kills caterplillars.
Do you trim your onions down at any point while they are growing? I noticed in the video that when you were planting them outdoors, they were cut so I was wondering at what times during the whole growth cycle do you cut them back. Thanks!
I live at 41.6 degrees latitude, which is a little farther north than you, and I want to try Candy onions, which is a day neutral or intermediate day onion. I started them on Jan. 13, thinking they definitely need to be started in good time because they will start to bulb earlier than my long day onions. I am guessing that they won't get to their maximum size, though. Is starting them early and getting them planted outside as early as I can the best strategy I can follow?
We do very well with intermediate day onions here, I’m sure they will still do fine. The zones aren’t black and white cut offs. I agree with your plan to get out relatively big transplants because you will want to maximize growth as they will start bulbing up usually early June to harvest in early July. So the longer they can grow in the ground the bigger the onion!
Thank you. When is the last day for zone 6b to start the onion seeds? Also, why not start with the 72 tray instead of the smaller containers?
I’d say somewhere Feb 1st ideally. As far as the containers vs 72 cell trays I’ve found it much better because you can broadcast seed and then transplant individual transplants into the cells. Otherwise you would either need to over seed and cut some plants or, more commonly, have spotty germination and then cells that have no plants at all.
@@TheGardenFamily Makes sense...thank you! 😊
Thank you. I just started my onion seeds today but I used the 72 tray instead and added extra seeds on some of them in case don’t germinate
I like starting them from seeds as well
They work great this way! Plus you can "start gardening" in January =)
@TheGardenFamily indeed
How about a video on direct sowing seeds for us lazy sots/traditional growers that don't want to go through the extra step of transplanting?
Just found your channel! I too am in sw Ohio, preble county. Is it too late to start my seeds? Its th last week in January
So how long after the two week timing after you put them in cells do they go in the ground? Is it six weeks?
Yes, generally about 6 weeks. We usually plant out mid March. But last year we were able to get them in the ground March 1st. We generally will start looking at the long term forecast early Mar and if we have a string of mild weather we plant them out. They are very cold hardy
Now I know how much I DON'T know! I almost gave up last year because I was overwhelmed by how many rules there are for each type of plant. This year, I am going to cut down on varieties and stick to about 5 types of vegetables. Hopefully onions will be one of them.
It's a lot to learn! After 20+ years we still make mistakes every year...just have to think of them as learning opportunities. Best of luck in your garden this year!
Hi Peter, I do have one question. I have the to go containers. Why wouldn't I poke holes in the bottom and bottom water instead of watering on top?
You definitely could! We find in general that once you get the soil moist with the humidity dome we don't have to water initially because the humidity dome doesn't make it lose any moisture. After the seedlings are only in for another week or so. Because of this we don't find it necessary but you definitely could and it would work just fine!
And when you plant seeds do you need holes in the bottom of the planters
Not for the seeds initially. They stay in the to-go containers for 2 weeks and then are transplanted to cells that have holes.
How many hours a day do you have grow lights on? I tried two different batches last year and both failed😂 I'm in north central ohio and did manage to grow some nice seeds last year. I'm gonna try again this year🤞
We keep our grow lights on 16 hours a day. Some people are afraid to keep them on that long just in case it will induce bulb formation but we haven’t found that to be a problem with our seedlings
@TheGardenFamily thanks for responding! I'm gonna give it another go!
I hear 12/12 is good to do for a seedling light schedule. But they're so small I doubt longer light would trick them into bulbing, at that point I think they want root growth more as a priority.
How deep do you plant the young onions?
We plant them about 1-1.5 inches deep for the transplants
Do you need to harden off the seedlings like you do with warm weather plants?
@@briarmunro good question! The hardening off process is more to get them used to the cold than anything else. We usually get them outside the end of Feb and early March as much as possible, including leaving them out overnight if temps are 30+F. When we plant them out we usually put them under a fleece row cover which gives a bit of cold and sun protection as well
@@TheGardenFamily Hardening off is as much about building strength in the stem to withstand the wind as it is about temperature. Even if you're transplanting in warm weather, you should harden for the stem.
I live in the mountains in the pacific northwest and my day length is about 2 hours shorter due to sun dipping behind mountains, do I need to choose shorter day seeds?
Hmm, good question. I believe you would still use your normal full day as even in the shade it should still be light out? But I don't know for sure. Let us know what worked for you if you try this season!
Hi guys! I'm in central Missouri zone 6a-6b. I just purchased onions before seeing your video and didn't know about the long day/short day/intermediate. I went back to check my order and I have bought two long day and one short day. I guess it will be an experiment to see if I can grow them here. I would reorder but it looks like everyone has the same idea and now most onion seeds are sold out. Do you think I can get away with either of these growing? Thanks for the great info!!
@@rebeccawolf3196 oops! I think you are probably north enough to trigger bulbing on the long day but you might get smaller onions. The short day onions usually need to be grown through the winter, the else are generally grown in southern climates and planted in fall and harvested in spring. Since you have the seeds I would try them but I would suspect you would get pretty small onions with them. If you can find them or for next season sierra Blanca and Cabernet are two great intermediate day types we grow!
I like in the north, New Hampshire and it kills me that nearly all the onion seed you can find here at a store are short day like "Texas Grano" etc. People who order the seeds don't know what they're doing.
I learning your methods question where can I purchace get a cover for the stand I have one just like yours ?
How do you avoid onion maggots? I’ve been stuggling with them for 3 years. Thanks
We had some in leeks a couple years ago. We rotate the location of our onions and so far so good on the onions. Hope you can find a solution!
I fill my trays half full with water, then add the potting medium. Makes for a non-disruptive method of hydrating the medium. By the way, onion seed is like wheat, it’s viable for one year. That’s it.
Do you trim the seedlings?
We do, just so they don't flop over. Usually we keep them about 6 inches tall. I should have showed that in the video!
Can you cover the bunching onions ?
We aren't growing them this year but if we grow them next year we will take some footage and show our results!
Growing bunching onions is basically the same process, only difference is there is no long or short day types for bunching onions. And you might want to succession sow them so that you'll have some over a longer part of the season.
@ good tips! 👍
Do you have holes in the bottom of your trays?
There are no holes in the little trays I start with. They are just for initial germination and a week or so of growth, after that we will put them in 72 cell trays that have drainage holes
I am a Buckeye transplant in central Florida. 9b is grow zone which onion is recommended for here please? Want sweet and red onions if possible.
I’m sure this time of year it’s nice to be down there! I don’t have any specific recs for short day onions as I’ve never grown them. Perhaps connect with your local extension? My understanding is onions are best grown as fall plantings where you are and then harvested in spring
Have you ever researched to see if anything from plastic containers leeches into soil?
leaches
When ou harvest your onion if planted in February
It really depends on the type of onion. If you planted in February in the ground usually you are in a warmer climate and often choosing intermediate day onions. These are usually harvested late June or early July. Do you know what variety?
When is it too late to start this process in zone 6b?
If wr don't have a barn where should wr put thr onions to dry out?
You didn't talk about trimming them at all :(
@@DollyPerry-t5e oh darn! I knew we would forget some things. For trimming it is to make sure the onions don’t flop over and also to make sure they don’t compete for light. So we usually give them a “haircut” and keep them about 5-6 inches tall. We usually do this on the evening so they can initially heal in the dark and not lose too much moisture. They do great with it!
@@TheGardenFamily Thank you! A perfect addendum!
@@DollyPerry-t5etrimming them is not beneficial beyond making them easier to untangle when transplanting, but there is no evidence that it improves productivity…on the contrary, the data shows it actually reduces yield and increases susceptibility to disease. The leaves are vital to photosynthesis, and the more leaf area there is the more sugars the plant will produce, thus providing more energy to be stored in the bulb, therby requiring the formation of a larger bulb to store said sugars.
@@cantseetheforestforthetree9673 Agreed, I mean why cut off their solar panels?
Great information.
I too have had problems with roots getting tangled and making it hard to transplant.
Last year I started all my onion seeds in 1-gallon pots. No more tangled roots. Well, not as bad, but still easier
Do you ring your onions?
We don't. The soil they are in is very light and fluffy so they will naturally just push out around it.
I have some onion seeds when dol plant them or put in the garden
We are planting our seeds now indoors and plant them out in the garden in March!
What are your favorite long day varieties of sweet onions?
@@crystalmckinniss4699 we have grown Walla Walla, Sweet Spanish Yellow Utah Jumbo and Patterson. The first two are arguably a bit sweeter but the Patterson store the best so that’s what we grow most of!
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉 i love you
❤❤❤😂
=)
Big onions equals high levels of nitrogen and water?
They definitely like higher nitrogen content and need regular water since they have shallow roots (but don't overdo it, they like well drained soil). Just make sure to pick the right onion and get your timing right as well!
@TheGardenFamily I plant as soon as the Amish start selling their onion bundles. And, I plant three different kinds. Onions and brussel sprouts always give me trouble. I can't get big yields.
Ur Brave the Dark advertisement just caused me a panic attack ... I couldn't find my volume control... I can't visit ur site if this might happen again...
@@jimandjeanneatchinson2347 we don’t have control over what ads UA-cam puts on the videos! 🤔 Sounds like a scary ad!
What ad?
❤🎉
=)
Why 90%of my onions this year bolted ??
Intro Ad and then another Ad at 1 minute 10 seconds... In between two advertisements the only thing I learned was it was January 13th... Hopefully the video improves
We don't control any of the ads, UA-cam puts them on. We will look into seeing if we can change the timing. Hope you got to the rest of the video!
Boy, onion's are so hard to grow.
Try sets, the little cocktail onion size bulbs, I did for years and it couldn't be easier and I always had good luck with them. Just bury about half way down the bulb and walk away. They get a bad rap I think is undeserved.
They are definitely have some complexity but not too hard once you get the hang of it! Best of luck
Well vented: after curing remove the top, drop in the toe of a pair of pantyhose, tie off, drop the next one in, tie off, repeat. Hang in a cool, dry place.
Thanks for the buttload of adds.
We don't control anything about the ads, UA-cam puts them on...
When thats your only jobs to do its not hard !!!
Hey Brian, I work full time as well in another field. Thanks for watching!