The dust that is on that truck looks similar to the Playa dust from Burning Man. It's a very fine powder and very high alkaline. It reeks havoc & corrodes electrical connections.
Yes, that's an option, being that it's most likely 3 modules, bcm, abs, fuel pump, might just be quicker to disconnect them, if the issue reoccurs I might pull the waveform 👍🏾
@@globalcommerce7654 ok thanks, I kind of have the same problem with a tahoe I bought, but I noticed I have fuses that are not working in the fuse box. I wondering if the fuse box itself is bad or could a bad pcm cause fuse issues besides bad wires.
I have this same type of issue on a 2008 Suburban 2500 where if I wiggle the wires under the dash the issue goes away. I thought maybe it was a tuner I had plugged in, but have not had it plugged in and did it again. I made it like 2000 miles without the issue and it has been happening again randomly for a month. I think I tested the Ohms on my OBDII that 2000 miles ago and it was 60ohms. What really sucks is that the 3/4 ton 2500 Suburban the terminator resistor is above the front fuel tank under the body, it is not by the spare wheel like a 1500 Suburban. (I think 2500 & 3500 pickups are like this, but there you can remove the bed). So I cannot access it to check it, but if I am getting the 60 ohms at the OBD2 it should be okay. I have a real scan tool, so IK have all the codes, but from all the issues the most common is U0101-7F Lost Communication With Transmission Control Module. Just a mystery, but this video is very helpful and thank you for posting as I will try to dig deeper into this issue.
Thank you for the detailed videos. I have a 2007 (GMT900) Chevy Silverado 1500, z71. Its the 07-13 Model, same as you are working on here. I have a Very Similar issue to this one. Its been over a year and two mechanics but no one can figure out. Codes: u0073-Canbus A Lost Communication C055-5a Rear wheel speed sensor not communicating. Symptoms: Come to a stop and press gas and dont move. Feels like it’s starting in 3rd gear. I can manually shift down to first gear then shift back up to drive and its fine. Overall feels very sluggish. This is an intermittent problem, I cant recreate the code, it happens when it wants to.. it does seem to do it more often when i really get on the throttle hard. I am pulling my hair out on this one. Where do you find the diagram of the pin location on all of the plugs? How do i know what pin hole is positive and which is negative when I test ohms? I have watched these vids a few times each trying to understand, electrical is hard to understand! Thank you again, cheers.
Also, Last thing. So If I understand correctly you determined this situation on the Silverado you are working on you figured out it was just dirty connections?
Thoughts on this same issue. I have high voltage on the canbus over 8 volts with no comms to scan tool. I unplug the abs module, voltage stabilizes to 2.5v, tool connects and vehicle starts and runs normal. New abs module installed and the exact same issue when plugged back in? What could induce voltage on the network when the abs is plugged in? Could another module or wire down stream be effected by the abs module plug unplugging? Wiring looks great to the abs? Thanks in advance.
It's most likely not the abs module due to gm network design.. the abs module unplugged kind of splits the network in half.. check behind it.. maybe damaged wiring or fuel pump module or trailer brake module bad..
@@globalcommerce7654 thank you for the extremely fast response. I'm used to working on plcs and machine control systems. So disconnecting a network or wired device and replacing it on those type of systems almost always fixes the issue. But this is somewhat different of an angle, and I don't have the schematics yet. Going to alldata this weekend to get them. Really blind and wasting time not knowing what is exactly what. Thanks again so much!
OK so hold on, the customer had his truck into your shop twice, you pulled his box off (I bet that wasn't cheap) and ran some tests with an ohmeter and it looked fine but then you said "he had the problem yesterday" and you haven't heard back, right?You had his truck in twice, I can't help but wonder if the customer gave up and took it somewhere else or sold the truck or something.
The dust that is on that truck looks similar to the Playa dust from Burning Man. It's a very fine powder and very high alkaline. It reeks havoc & corrodes electrical connections.
I'm wondering how the wave form would look. Might wanna scope this one to see track down a possible bad module.
Yes, that's an option, being that it's most likely 3 modules, bcm, abs, fuel pump, might just be quicker to disconnect them, if the issue reoccurs I might pull the waveform 👍🏾
Hey man having issues currently so what needed uo being the problem ?
is there a part 3? what was the final conclusion?
No part 3, was resolved in this video
Which one was it bcm or abs module?
@@dondodda4319 none of them, was contacts as shown in the video
@@globalcommerce7654 ok thanks, I kind of have the same problem with a tahoe I bought, but I noticed I have fuses that are not working in the fuse box. I wondering if the fuse box itself is bad or could a bad pcm cause fuse issues besides bad wires.
@globalcommerce7654 was it the bcm, tcm or ecm?
I just wanna verify the exact parts before buying something I don't need..
Thanks in advance
I have this same type of issue on a 2008 Suburban 2500 where if I wiggle the wires under the dash the issue goes away. I thought maybe it was a tuner I had plugged in, but have not had it plugged in and did it again. I made it like 2000 miles without the issue and it has been happening again randomly for a month. I think I tested the Ohms on my OBDII that 2000 miles ago and it was 60ohms. What really sucks is that the 3/4 ton 2500 Suburban the terminator resistor is above the front fuel tank under the body, it is not by the spare wheel like a 1500 Suburban. (I think 2500 & 3500 pickups are like this, but there you can remove the bed). So I cannot access it to check it, but if I am getting the 60 ohms at the OBD2 it should be okay. I have a real scan tool, so IK have all the codes, but from all the issues the most common is U0101-7F Lost Communication With Transmission Control Module. Just a mystery, but this video is very helpful and thank you for posting as I will try to dig deeper into this issue.
Did you ever solve this issue?
@@blooemu3823 Not sure, I cleaned all my grounds, but traded the vehicle after doing that work.
Thank you for the detailed videos. I have a 2007 (GMT900) Chevy Silverado 1500, z71. Its the 07-13 Model, same as you are working on here. I have a Very Similar issue to this one. Its been over a year and two mechanics but no one can figure out.
Codes: u0073-Canbus A Lost Communication
C055-5a Rear wheel speed sensor not communicating.
Symptoms: Come to a stop and press gas and dont move. Feels like it’s starting in 3rd gear. I can manually shift down to first gear then shift back up to drive and its fine. Overall feels very sluggish. This is an intermittent problem, I cant recreate the code, it happens when it wants to.. it does seem to do it more often when i really get on the throttle hard. I am pulling my hair out on this one. Where do you find the diagram of the pin location on all of the plugs? How do i know what pin hole is positive and which is negative when I test ohms? I have watched these vids a few times each trying to understand, electrical is hard to understand! Thank you again, cheers.
Also, Last thing. So If I understand correctly you determined this situation on the Silverado you are working on you figured out it was just dirty connections?
Yes, as a shortcut, try reseating your connections and use crc electrical cleaner spray, may solve your issue fast!
@@globalcommerce7654 Thank you. I will pick up the crc while I am out! Thanks for the reply and the tip!
@@chefzackkasmar6767 don't forget to like the video and subscribe 👍🏾
Link to crc electrical cleaner spray?@@globalcommerce7654
Thoughts on this same issue. I have high voltage on the canbus over 8 volts with no comms to scan tool. I unplug the abs module, voltage stabilizes to 2.5v, tool connects and vehicle starts and runs normal. New abs module installed and the exact same issue when plugged back in? What could induce voltage on the network when the abs is plugged in? Could another module or wire down stream be effected by the abs module plug unplugging? Wiring looks great to the abs?
Thanks in advance.
It's most likely not the abs module due to gm network design.. the abs module unplugged kind of splits the network in half.. check behind it.. maybe damaged wiring or fuel pump module or trailer brake module bad..
@@globalcommerce7654 thank you for the extremely fast response. I'm used to working on plcs and machine control systems. So disconnecting a network or wired device and replacing it on those type of systems almost always fixes the issue. But this is somewhat different of an angle, and I don't have the schematics yet. Going to alldata this weekend to get them. Really blind and wasting time not knowing what is exactly what. Thanks again so much!
@@kickford no problem, be sure to subscribe and repoet back.. maybe on part 1 I post network diagram.. I can't remember
Did you ever fix this problem I have the same issue and knowone can figure it out
It was fixed in the 2 parts of this video, watch them closely if you desire a solution
OK so hold on, the customer had his truck into your shop twice, you pulled his box off (I bet that wasn't cheap) and ran some tests with an ohmeter and it looked fine but then you said "he had the problem yesterday" and you haven't heard back, right?You had his truck in twice, I can't help but wonder if the customer gave up and took it somewhere else or sold the truck or something.