Excellent as usual. Beautiful work and how you teach is perfect. Then you top it off by helping promote the photo community. That’s just awesome! Thank you
That was a lot of fun to watch and really interesting, Ab! I'll definitely have to try some of these out. I recently did some of this with some panning and movement at a course I taught. But we only used natural light. No flash. I'd love to use some flash for it!
I think it's been over two years since I last used shutter drag in a shoot. And even then it was done differently and in B&W. But you inspired me: I'll give it a go next week 👍.
@@AbSesayPhoto Well, plans are great until they crash into reality, lol 🤣. Had everything prepared for a dance shoot yesterday, but then the creative process took us in a completely different (but good) direction. So the shutter drag shots will have to wait. Sorry.
Not gonna lie, I’ve struggled with this in the past. Yes, I’ve been successful with shutter drag but not consistently. This tutorial is GOLD! Starting fresh with concrete instructions. Thanks Ab. #KnightOfLight
Your videos are always great Ab. How would you approach the scenario with flash and large skylight that filled your shooting space with ambient light you can't really control?
Thanks for this video, Ab. Q: First or second curtain sync, and why you might choose one over the other in a situation ? All the Best from London, England.
These are all using first. For me, first is easier to time the decisive moment, especially if you have portraits. Also, I tend to use the rear when capturing motion and the camera is locked down vs when moving the camera. I find when moving the camera, I know exactly where in the frame I want the person frozen, and that becomes more difficult with the second curtain.
Ab knows what he's doing and why. No discussion about that or with him. That said, 1st or 2nd - it depends. Yes, timing is important, as Ab says. The other thing is the ratio between ambient and flash. The rule of thumb for the effect is that 1st curtain can give you a fog of motion blur over the subject you want to freeze while 2nd freezes the subject over a trail of motion blur. If we stay away from timing and how Ab does it, then in general I would opt for 2nd. But when the ratio between flash and ambient is that they are far apart then it doesn't matter a lot any more. The farther ambient (low) and flash (high) are apart, the smaller the motion blur impact. It boils down to artistic choices once you understand this and can properly work with it. In one shot you may want the (ambient) motion trail to end with a properly exposed (flash) and frozen person. In other cases you may want the motion blur to make e.g. a face less recognisable because of an artistic choice. Timing in all this is important and you may make a pragmatic choice just for that.
I'm using first curtain sync in oall of these. Great question. Im starting to realize it was a huge miss not talking about which curtain I am syncing with. That's why I love these chats.
Brilliant! By flagging the nanlight you control which part is blurred and which is not... Balancing the flash and the constant light, the boundary of the effect is flawless... Thanks for sharing this good lesson! :)
My first shutter drag photo was from a mistake that produced a photo I really liked. Somehow I had my shutter at some slow speed by accident. It was a happy mistake.
Sitting down, I don’t think is a very good example to show motion blur. She is too static, you should use a sports scenario, dancing, musician something that offers organic motion.
When I grow up, I want to be as good as Ab!
lol. 😂Appreciate you.
You will be at war...
Excellent as usual. Beautiful work and how you teach is perfect. Then you top it off by helping promote the photo community. That’s just awesome! Thank you
Thank you so much for the feedback.
That was a lot of fun to watch and really interesting, Ab! I'll definitely have to try some of these out. I recently did some of this with some panning and movement at a course I taught. But we only used natural light. No flash. I'd love to use some flash for it!
Brad! My Msn! Would love to see the results.
@@AbSesayPhoto Was thinking of posting them tomorrow! I'll send em to ya if I do!
@@AbSesayPhoto Sent to you!!
Awesome video
Thank you.
I think it's been over two years since I last used shutter drag in a shoot. And even then it was done differently and in B&W. But you inspired me: I'll give it a go next week 👍.
Excited to see your results.
@@AbSesayPhoto Well, plans are great until they crash into reality, lol 🤣. Had everything prepared for a dance shoot yesterday, but then the creative process took us in a completely different (but good) direction. So the shutter drag shots will have to wait. Sorry.
Excelente...GRACIAS!!!!!!!👏👏👏👏
Thank you.
Not gonna lie, I’ve struggled with this in the past. Yes, I’ve been successful with shutter drag but not consistently. This tutorial is GOLD! Starting fresh with concrete instructions. Thanks Ab. #KnightOfLight
Thank you so much. Appreciate you.
Ab...this is next level! It was great running into you at Imaging this year. I have to give this a try. Thanks!
Great to meet you as well. Its definitely a fun technique.
This is brilliant, helpful, and I’m inspired to do more shutter drags (zoom drags!) 🙂👏🏻
Great to here. Excited to see your results.
Great tips Ab and thanks for the tutorial. I do enjoy watching your videos. Cheers
Thank you.
Your videos are always great Ab. How would you approach the scenario with flash and large skylight that filled your shooting space with ambient light you can't really control?
Great photos! Quick question: What about using rear curtain sync?
Great Question. It would yield similar results, but the image would be frozen at the end of the drag vs the front. Just a matter of taste.
Loved the video!
Thank you.
Another interesting and informative tutorial Ab. It certainly wasn't a drag watching this 😋
Love the Pun. Thank you so much.
This is dope. Gonna have to try this 🤙🏽
Thank you Paige
best on earth !!!🔥🔥🔥
Humbled, but there are so many levels above me.
Thanks for this video, Ab. Q: First or second curtain sync, and why you might choose one over the other in a situation ? All the Best from London, England.
These are all using first. For me, first is easier to time the decisive moment, especially if you have portraits. Also, I tend to use the rear when capturing motion and the camera is locked down vs when moving the camera. I find when moving the camera, I know exactly where in the frame I want the person frozen, and that becomes more difficult with the second curtain.
Ab knows what he's doing and why. No discussion about that or with him. That said, 1st or 2nd - it depends. Yes, timing is important, as Ab says. The other thing is the ratio between ambient and flash. The rule of thumb for the effect is that 1st curtain can give you a fog of motion blur over the subject you want to freeze while 2nd freezes the subject over a trail of motion blur.
If we stay away from timing and how Ab does it, then in general I would opt for 2nd. But when the ratio between flash and ambient is that they are far apart then it doesn't matter a lot any more. The farther ambient (low) and flash (high) are apart, the smaller the motion blur impact.
It boils down to artistic choices once you understand this and can properly work with it.
In one shot you may want the (ambient) motion trail to end with a properly exposed (flash) and frozen person. In other cases you may want the motion blur to make e.g. a face less recognisable because of an artistic choice.
Timing in all this is important and you may make a pragmatic choice just for that.
Wonderful video Thanks
Thank you appreciate the comment.
Great advice and video!
Thank you.
I watch a lot of photography videos and this is absolutely genius. Thank you.
Thank you.
Interesting topic. I am curious if you were using rear camera sync. The light meters are so useful. I love my Sekonic 858.
I'm using first curtain sync in oall of these. Great question. Im starting to realize it was a huge miss not talking about which curtain I am syncing with. That's why I love these chats.
Brilliant!
By flagging the nanlight you control which part is blurred and which is not...
Balancing the flash and the constant light, the boundary of the effect is flawless...
Thanks for sharing this good lesson! :)
Thank you. Really appreciate the feedback.
This is a fantastic lesson, thanks!
Thank you Skip.
❤❤❤
Thank you
Zoom from far to close or the other way?
I was zooming out. Tight to wide.
My first shutter drag photo was from a mistake that produced a photo I really liked. Somehow I had my shutter at some slow speed by accident. It was a happy mistake.
🤝😎
Thank you
Sitting down, I don’t think is a very good example to show motion blur. She is too static, you should use a sports scenario, dancing, musician something that offers organic motion.
I love hearing such great suggestions. Thank you for you input. I will try another scenario next time.