Hey there, bud! You asked at the end of this video if anyone could fill you in more on the background of that Hobart unit you restored. This is what I’ve learned over the years: Kitchenaid was developed by Hobart to ultimately serve as their domestic line of mixers. Separate from the Kitchenaid line, and exclusively under Hobart’s name there were at least four successively larger mixer models - all designed, tested, and manufactured for commercial use only. That Hobart mixer model you worked on would not have ever been available to the public to purchase and equip their home kitchens with, being as best I know the smallest of the two tabletop commercial units the company produced. The other two successively larger models were far more powerful giant size floor mounted ones secured in that fashion with huge heavy bolts. I worked for about a week decades ago in a Goodwill Industries factory cafeteria’s kitchen washing dishes which included all the huge parts for one of the smaller of the two floor mounted units that was installed in that particular kitchen. Back in the very early 1960’s my Dad’s plant which was the world headquarters for Ford Motor Company’s then space and military research and development division in Newport Beach, California - Aeronutronic Systems Incorporated - had a rather large cafeteria, and its accompanying kitchen was fitted with one of the larger or largest, giant size floor mounted Hobart units. To convey to me just how large that mixer was he told me the staff assigned to clean its parts after each days use had to literally lay the unit’s huge steel mixing bowl on its side and crawl into it in order to clean it. Hobart has always produced the very best, most durable, precision high quality commercial mixers world wide - they are literally one of only a few companies still manufacturing everything in the USA instead of China or elsewhere. Hope that all was of help!
Under the brass screw next to sun gear is an adjustment screw to set backlash on the yolk gears. Quiet them right down. Look on manuals for service manual on the 50G
Great job on the resto, I just restored a Hobart A-120 mixer. Just FYI you should only use food safe grease in these machines not standard industrial grease.
Harbor Freight has a decent pin punch set for $9. Better than using a nail set. Also, brass punches for hitting on things you don't want to leave a mark.
Excellent job. I have a G that was 'restored' - but suddenly shorted out at the switch. I need to know where the two wires from the switch go to. Mine are frayed and causing the short. Thanks. Ken Crum
Yea I could have made a 5 part video on this one, but wanted to cover the main parts. Powder coating is specialized so it is irrelevant to most people, and cleaning is just a bit too tedious to record. I tried, I mean I do not do video for a living or I may have been able to do a better job, I just wanted to make sure I covered the important stuff.
I have an N50G, the motor start is different from yours, it’s giving me fits. Seems like I have to have the bronze bushings spaced perfect or the motor either won’t start or will bind up. Every video I’ve seen, they just bolt it together, plug it in, and it fires right up.
Did it turn out the motor was actually brushless like the comment in your first video? Do you think the modern 1/6HP motor from the current N50 line would fit in this?
Right!! I do wish I was better at creating video... fortunately I do not do that for a living lol Would have been cool though, it never crossed my mind!
Hello from Finland. Great video, thank you. Perhaps you could give some advice..? We did one like this, but now when we are trying to get it to run it just "freezes" (locks up) and makes a humming noice..? Any ideas what could cause it? Its something to do with the electric motor
Isolate the gear train from the motor by removing the fiber gear. If the motor is receiving current and still doesn't work then the stator may need to be replaced ro rewound. A motor rewinding shop should be able to rewind the stator if that is the problem.
If one wanted to add more grease to it (because the old one perhaps deteriorated), does it have to be as extensive? What new lubricant did you use and can you add that to the original grease or does it have to be cleaned up all the way first? I think Hobart make grease for these machines that is "safe" to use in food industry... www.heritageparts.com/Manufacturers/Hobart-Food-Machines/HOBART-LUBRICANT,-CONTAINER-ASSY/p/HOB00-103881-00047?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_JYnuBir_SCXBoFivm1IMQdbfwj_lc478ZZlWs3hDmNd3hqDG8FqOEaAulgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Bonjour, www.hobartcorp.com/products/food-prep/mixers/n50-5-quart-mixer. So you have to buy the N 50 HOBART Corporation. I didn't know it had been labeled "KITCHENAID. (Department of the Hobart Electric Manufacturing Company HEMC), it was this video that taught me." On history Hobart, it is in 1947 that the company launches the N 50, would it have existed under the name Kitchenaid before (?), I do not know. Probably for commercial reasons; the Hobart story no longer speaks of Kitchenaid sold in 1992 to Wirhpool. Hello from France Il faut donc acheter le N 50 HOBART Corporation. je ne savais pas qu'il avait été labelisé " KITCHENAID. ( Département de la Hobart Electric Manufacturing Company HEMC), c'est cette vidéo qui me l'a appris. Sur historique Hobart, c'est en 1947 que la compagnie lance le N 50, aurait-il existé sous le nom Kitchenaid auparavant (?), je ne le sais pas. Pour raison probablement commercial; l'histoire Hobart ne parle plus de Kitchenaid vendu en 1992 à Wirhpool. Bonjour de France.
The standard KitchenAid mixers are OK for occasional light duty mixing at higher speeds. They fall short on low speed high load operations like making bread and cookie dough. Universal motors lose torque at lower RPMs, which is why they struggle with dough hook operations. The N50 uses an induction motor hooked to a gear reduction transmission. The engineers who designed the N50 matched the power of the motor, the transmission and the required load into the design of the mixer.
I had to watch my own video to recall this mixer, my memory is getting terrible! I used some felt, I bought a sheet of it and have used it to cut different wicks for different machines. It is a pretty thick durable felt, I think 1/8" if I recall. I am pretty sure I ordered it from grainger.
Thanks! I actually own 3 of these. I have cosmetically restored a number of them (not the G model, but a bit later N50s) and am inspired to restore them like you have by your video. It appears you powder coated. Did the powder coating affect the fit (tight fit) of the case?
@@pecarns Yes you will love it! It was powder coated, and didnt affect the fit but it takes some planning. You have to tape up any area you dont want powder coat to be that may affect fitment, and plug holes where there are threads or you will have to chase them. I dont recall exactly, but I may have put the 2 halves of the motor housing loosely together to powder coat them as one unit, I try to do that when I can. If not then tape works well.
I am using Lucas Oil red and tacky, but I am sure any high quality lithium based grease will work in this machine. If the gaskets and gasket surfaces are good, it should never leak.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks. I just purchased 4 oz. of Food Grade Grease and read that it was made of Pig Fat. Fortunately, I'm not restricted by it's content, but, I'm sure some are. There is no "Contents" or "Ingredients" listed on the container.
@@MrMixalis007 Wow that's pretty interesting! I think the stuff made by Whirlpool is mineral oil based, unless it has changed. I imagine those folks that choose to not eat pork would be pretty upset if they knew, they should really disclose what it is made from. Thanks!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 This container actually reads: FOOD GRADE GREASE for GEARS & BEARINGS. 4 oz. Grease for KitchenAid and other kitchen uses. Again thanks for the great video.
It's amazing that even the switch can be disassembled, cleaned and reassembed. Such a difference from our present disposable culture.
Fantastic job! It looks like brand new! Ready for another 50 years or more
Thanks! Built like a tank for sure!!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 too bad more things aren't made like this nowadays. Most things are disposable now
@@stevegordon5243 I absolutely agree!!
You made the mixer look new. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks!
Thank you for the gear demo, far more complicated than a KitchenAid mechanically , but is sure made for rigorous use
I was pretty fascinated by it!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Very sturdy construction, built to last!
@@russ5024 it has certainly lasted! Seems pretty close to indestructible in normal use.
This mixers WERE an art work!!! truly beautiful machines
Fantastic job!
Hey there, bud! You asked at the end of this video if anyone could fill you in more on the background of that Hobart unit you restored. This is what I’ve learned over the years: Kitchenaid was developed by Hobart to ultimately serve as their domestic line of mixers. Separate from the Kitchenaid line, and exclusively under Hobart’s name there were at least four successively larger mixer models - all designed, tested, and manufactured for commercial use only. That Hobart mixer model you worked on would not have ever been available to the public to purchase and equip their home kitchens with, being as best I know the smallest of the two tabletop commercial units the company produced. The other two successively larger models were far more powerful giant size floor mounted ones secured in that fashion with huge heavy bolts. I worked for about a week decades ago in a Goodwill Industries factory cafeteria’s kitchen washing dishes which included all the huge parts for one of the smaller of the two floor mounted units that was installed in that particular kitchen. Back in the very early 1960’s my Dad’s plant which was the world headquarters for Ford Motor Company’s then space and military research and development division in Newport Beach, California - Aeronutronic Systems Incorporated - had a rather large cafeteria, and its accompanying kitchen was fitted with one of the larger or largest, giant size floor mounted Hobart units. To convey to me just how large that mixer was he told me the staff assigned to clean its parts after each days use had to literally lay the unit’s huge steel mixing bowl on its side and crawl into it in order to clean it. Hobart has always produced the very best, most durable, precision high quality commercial mixers world wide - they are literally one of only a few companies still manufacturing everything in the USA instead of China or elsewhere. Hope that all was of help!
Awesome, thanks!!! Thats pretty fascinating
Loved the Kitchenaid logo! Great work sir! Keep doing what you love.
Thanks!
Fantastic job
This video makes me want one of these machines. The gearcase mounts onto the motor like a Swiss bank vault door closing.
Good done! Thank you so much for this Video.
Under the brass screw next to sun gear is an adjustment screw to set backlash on the yolk gears. Quiet them right down. Look on manuals for service manual on the 50G
My hat's off to you, Sir.
Thanks!!
Great job on the resto, I just restored a Hobart A-120 mixer. Just FYI you should only use food safe grease in these machines not standard industrial grease.
I have a Hobart N50 which is what this is. If it was me I would remove any reference to kitchenaid on the unit. Looks great.
Harbor Freight has a decent pin punch set for $9. Better than using a nail set. Also, brass punches for hitting on things you don't want to leave a mark.
Excellent job. I have a G that was 'restored' - but suddenly shorted out at the switch. I need to know where the two wires from the switch go to. Mine are frayed and causing the short. Thanks. Ken Crum
FWIW the first two numbers of the serial number is the year it was built. This beauty was built in 1937
Straight-cut gears. Just like a racing car transmission!
I really wish you had filmed the intermediate steps -cleaning, reconditioning motor (if any), powder-coating, etc.
Yea I could have made a 5 part video on this one, but wanted to cover the main parts. Powder coating is specialized so it is irrelevant to most people, and cleaning is just a bit too tedious to record. I tried, I mean I do not do video for a living or I may have been able to do a better job, I just wanted to make sure I covered the important stuff.
I was told by Hobart that mineral oil should be used in the small PTO lubrication access port.
From what I have read, the food grade grease was mineral oil based so that would make sense.
I have an N50G, the motor start is different from yours, it’s giving me fits. Seems like I have to have the bronze bushings spaced perfect or the motor either won’t start or will bind up. Every video I’ve seen, they just bolt it together, plug it in, and it fires right up.
Hi, where did you get the new seals, and the necessary parts?
Did it turn out the motor was actually brushless like the comment in your first video? Do you think the modern 1/6HP motor from the current N50 line would fit in this?
only missing the epic music in the beginning ;)
Right!! I do wish I was better at creating video... fortunately I do not do that for a living lol
Would have been cool though, it never crossed my mind!
Hello from Finland. Great video, thank you. Perhaps you could give some advice..? We did one like this, but now when we are trying to get it to run it just "freezes" (locks up) and makes a humming noice..? Any ideas what could cause it? Its something to do with the electric motor
Isolate the gear train from the motor by removing the fiber gear. If the motor is receiving current and still doesn't work then the stator may need to be replaced ro rewound. A motor rewinding shop should be able to rewind the stator if that is the problem.
Between Part 1 and Part 2, there is quite a difference in appearance of the mixer body. Was this repainted or did you send it to get powder coated?
Hello, what did you do @19:10? Thanks
es parecida a la hobart A50
It's funny how this is just the n50 with the kitchenaid logo on it. Hobart was running out of designs.
where did you fing the new parts???
Which parts are you referring to? I did not have to replace much, just a good degreasing and polishing of the old parts
If one wanted to add more grease to it (because the old one perhaps deteriorated), does it have to be as extensive? What new lubricant did you use and can you add that to the original grease or does it have to be cleaned up all the way first? I think Hobart make grease for these machines that is "safe" to use in food industry... www.heritageparts.com/Manufacturers/Hobart-Food-Machines/HOBART-LUBRICANT,-CONTAINER-ASSY/p/HOB00-103881-00047?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_JYnuBir_SCXBoFivm1IMQdbfwj_lc478ZZlWs3hDmNd3hqDG8FqOEaAulgEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
i have 4 Kitchenaids and 1 new pro 600 , the Model G is the one mixer i dream of owning before i die lol
Bonjour,
www.hobartcorp.com/products/food-prep/mixers/n50-5-quart-mixer.
So you have to buy the N 50 HOBART Corporation.
I didn't know it had been labeled "KITCHENAID. (Department of the Hobart Electric Manufacturing Company HEMC), it was this video that taught me."
On history Hobart, it is in 1947 that the company launches the N 50, would it have existed under the name Kitchenaid before (?), I do not know.
Probably for commercial reasons; the Hobart story no longer speaks of Kitchenaid sold in 1992 to Wirhpool.
Hello from France
Il faut donc acheter le N 50 HOBART Corporation.
je ne savais pas qu'il avait été labelisé " KITCHENAID. ( Département de la Hobart Electric Manufacturing Company HEMC), c'est cette vidéo qui me l'a appris.
Sur historique Hobart, c'est en 1947 que la compagnie lance le N 50, aurait-il existé sous le nom Kitchenaid auparavant (?), je ne le sais pas.
Pour raison probablement commercial; l'histoire Hobart ne parle plus de Kitchenaid vendu en 1992 à Wirhpool.
Bonjour de France.
Hobart CEO gave one to his wife. At a party she told everyone about how it’s the best kitchen aide she has. That’s how the name came to be.
The standard KitchenAid mixers are OK for occasional light duty mixing at higher speeds. They fall short on low speed high load operations like making bread and cookie dough. Universal motors lose torque at lower RPMs, which is why they struggle with dough hook operations. The N50 uses an induction motor hooked to a gear reduction transmission. The engineers who designed the N50 matched the power of the motor, the transmission and the required load into the design of the mixer.
What did you use for the new wicks?
I had to watch my own video to recall this mixer, my memory is getting terrible! I used some felt, I bought a sheet of it and have used it to cut different wicks for different machines. It is a pretty thick durable felt, I think 1/8" if I recall. I am pretty sure I ordered it from grainger.
Thanks! I actually own 3 of these. I have cosmetically restored a number of them (not the G model, but a bit later N50s) and am inspired to restore them like you have by your video. It appears you powder coated. Did the powder coating affect the fit (tight fit) of the case?
@@pecarns Yes you will love it! It was powder coated, and didnt affect the fit but it takes some planning. You have to tape up any area you dont want powder coat to be that may affect fitment, and plug holes where there are threads or you will have to chase them. I dont recall exactly, but I may have put the 2 halves of the motor housing loosely together to powder coat them as one unit, I try to do that when I can. If not then tape works well.
Vintage Mixers and More
Thanks for the quick response and advice!
What brand of grease did you use?
I am using Lucas Oil red and tacky, but I am sure any high quality lithium based grease will work in this machine. If the gaskets and gasket surfaces are good, it should never leak.
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 Thanks. I just purchased 4 oz. of Food Grade Grease and read that it was made of Pig Fat. Fortunately, I'm not restricted by it's content, but, I'm sure some are. There is no "Contents" or "Ingredients" listed on the container.
@@MrMixalis007 Wow that's pretty interesting! I think the stuff made by Whirlpool is mineral oil based, unless it has changed. I imagine those folks that choose to not eat pork would be pretty upset if they knew, they should really disclose what it is made from. Thanks!
@@vintagemixersandmore1666 This container actually reads: FOOD GRADE GREASE for GEARS & BEARINGS. 4 oz. Grease for KitchenAid and other kitchen uses. Again thanks for the great video.
@@MrMixalis007 You bet, and thanks for the info!