I fitted Lemforder ones when I replaced basically the whole front suspension at 200K when I just got the car, they seem to be still pretty decent after 105000 miles. At €49 back then they were not that expensive either, and Skandix sells them even cheaper nowadays at just €38.50. In my Volvo 850 days I once fitted cheap Scantech control arms (that have integrated balljoints on the 850), they were already bad at just 15000 miles or so 😄 so I replaced them with Meyle HD ones which lasted quite a bit longer.
186,683 miles -TRW lower ball joints on my pug 405. Original fit at factory at the Ryton, uk Peugeot plant. Still minor resistance when moved side to side, no play at all in any plane, boot still as new (once wiped over). Only changed them when giving a general refurbished due to the mileage. Unipart brand fitted, let’s see how they last....( had them in ) I think TRW are part of the ZF group- as are Lemforder..... a theme developing me thinks....
Hi Simon, Have a similar V70 D5 diesel Volvo from 2002. Just replaced the ball joints due to some knocking noise, it turned out they were OK and the problem were the drop links. Anyway the original ball joints were the same as yours with the code 5555. The original ball joints lasted 375K miles. Replaced with new TRW ball joints as I could not find Lemforder ones and the original Volvo parts were I think £69 a piece.
Original Volvo, Lemforder and TRW are all made by ZF industries, Germany and are all the same item in different packaging and prices. Having tried various other brands it is now obvious that the ZF products are far and away the longest lasting.
I'll just repeat what I said in a previous comment. It was fine to get it centred and started off. I then used a smaller socket on the baseplate for the bigger hits.
@@sirobb Well this looks like pretty strong hammering on the joint. I didn't hold the hammer but if I saw anybody doing that for my car or any other I'd stay away from that garage. I'm not going to stay away from your channel as there's a lot of good information, so thanks for all the work!
A metal hammer on a hollow metal socket on a metal balljoint 10" from a sensitive microphone makes it sound worse than it was. I think the videos show that I have mechanical sympathy at least. 😊
Hi Simon, I cant say about ball joints but, on my current Saab because there are soooo many speed bumps in my area the link rods were going at an alarming rate. First couple of sets were local MF's stuff (one set was Firstline). Both did not last very long. So I got a set of Meyle HD's online. I fitted them years ago and (touching wood now) they are still going. It gotta be 4yrs+ at least . I have used Meyle on several occasions (different cars and joints) and they have proved to be very tough. They only cost a few quid more than the budget MF jobbies but, they last wwaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy longer. So if I got Meyle as a choice in a line up , that where I put my money (and Time).
Febi parts are crap. I will never use febi parts again. We always use Lemforder. Febi parts tend to wear in couple of months. Especially bushings, ball joints.
Wish I could post pics on here. I had a Lemforda ball joint exactly the same as in your video on my V70 T5 that lasted 24 hours and came apart. The ball pulled out of the cup. You can imagine the amount of damage caused. I have quite a few pics of the damage and pics of the ball joint.
The text is sensitive to certain characters surrounding words so you can unintentionally end up with *bold* _italics_ and -strike through- onlinesense.org/youtube-comments-bold-italics-strikethrough/#:~:text=When%20you%20type%20a%20comment,to%20add%20around%20the%20words%3A&text=To%20bold%20a%20word%2C%20put%20*asterisks*%20around%20it.&text=For%20italics%2C%20use%20_underscores_.
Yes but this is from many years ago before many companies outsourced manufacture of components to China. So sorry to say not of much relevance nowadays in my opinion
Interesting. Thanks for the research
I fitted Lemforder ones when I replaced basically the whole front suspension at 200K when I just got the car, they seem to be still pretty decent after 105000 miles. At €49 back then they were not that expensive either, and Skandix sells them even cheaper nowadays at just €38.50.
In my Volvo 850 days I once fitted cheap Scantech control arms (that have integrated balljoints on the 850), they were already bad at just 15000 miles or so 😄 so I replaced them with Meyle HD ones which lasted quite a bit longer.
Yes I've heard nothing good ever about Scantech.
186,683 miles -TRW lower ball joints on my pug 405. Original fit at factory at the Ryton, uk Peugeot plant. Still minor resistance when moved side to side, no play at all in any plane, boot still as new (once wiped over). Only changed them when giving a general refurbished due to the mileage. Unipart brand fitted, let’s see how they last....( had them in ) I think TRW are part of the ZF group- as are Lemforder..... a theme developing me thinks....
Hi Simon, Have a similar V70 D5 diesel Volvo from 2002. Just replaced the ball joints due to some knocking noise, it turned out they were OK and the problem were the drop links. Anyway the original ball joints were the same as yours with the code 5555. The original ball joints lasted 375K miles. Replaced with new TRW ball joints as I could not find Lemforder ones and the original Volvo parts were I think £69 a piece.
I also had come to think Lemforder were the best from comments elsewhere - they are OE on many BMWs as well as Volvo.
For Vauxhall I think Meyle are the best you can get. Mine have lasted years. Some cheaper ones have last a year.
Meyle certainly put their name on some excellent quality products.
Original Volvo, Lemforder and TRW are all made by ZF industries, Germany and are all the same item in different packaging and prices. Having tried various other brands it is now obvious that the ZF products are far and away the longest lasting.
Ive had this advice from you and others that LEMFORDER PARTS ARE TOP NOTCH FOR VOLVO'S BUT ALSO GOOD REVEIWS ABOUT FEBI BILSTEIN
0:38 I would advise not to hammer on the joint like that and use a bigger socket or pipe that sits on the flange.
I'll just repeat what I said in a previous comment.
It was fine to get it centred and started off.
I then used a smaller socket on the baseplate for the bigger hits.
@@sirobb Well this looks like pretty strong hammering on the joint.
I didn't hold the hammer but if I saw anybody doing that for my car or any other I'd stay away from that garage.
I'm not going to stay away from your channel as there's a lot of good information, so thanks for all the work!
A metal hammer on a hollow metal socket on a metal balljoint 10" from a sensitive microphone makes it sound worse than it was.
I think the videos show that I have mechanical sympathy at least. 😊
Hi Simon, I cant say about ball joints but, on my current Saab because there are soooo many speed bumps in my area the link rods were going at an alarming rate. First couple of sets were local MF's stuff (one set was Firstline). Both did not last very long. So I got a set of Meyle HD's online. I fitted them years ago and (touching wood now) they are still going. It gotta be 4yrs+ at least . I have used Meyle on several occasions (different cars and joints) and they have proved to be very tough. They only cost a few quid more than the budget MF jobbies but, they last wwaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy longer. So if I got Meyle as a choice in a line up , that where I put my money (and Time).
I did a video a few years ago on anti roll bar links and agree that Meyle are one of the best out there.
Definitely lemforder nothing else.
Is FAG good?
@@pedronietsh They certainly were so check recent reviews. If their quality is the same, a good choice.
I want to buy for my c180 w202. I found ones from FAG made in germany. I ordered febi bilstein but not sure about febi today, looks like lottery…
@@pedronietsh I'd still consider Febi.
@@sirobb Thanks a lot for the prompt information!
Febi parts are crap. I will never use febi parts again. We always use Lemforder. Febi parts tend to wear in couple of months. Especially bushings, ball joints.
Wish I could post pics on here.
I had a Lemforda ball joint exactly the same as in your video on my V70 T5 that lasted 24 hours and came apart.
The ball pulled out of the cup.
You can imagine the amount of damage caused.
I have quite a few pics of the damage and pics of the ball joint.
Upload them to Flickr and post a link to the album here?
I don't use Flicker sorry
@@granada012000 boomer
good blog a gen mate keep safe gary from crewe
Why has my comment been scored through? .... any idea anyone ?
The text is sensitive to certain characters surrounding words so you can unintentionally end up with *bold* _italics_ and -strike through- onlinesense.org/youtube-comments-bold-italics-strikethrough/#:~:text=When%20you%20type%20a%20comment,to%20add%20around%20the%20words%3A&text=To%20bold%20a%20word%2C%20put%20*asterisks*%20around%20it.&text=For%20italics%2C%20use%20_underscores_.
Never hammer the ball joint itself
It was fine to get it centred and started off.
I then used a smaller socket on the baseplate for the bigger hits.
Yes but this is from many years ago before many companies outsourced manufacture of components to China.
So sorry to say not of much relevance nowadays in my opinion
I haven't seen a single balljoint made by a good manufacturer that's made in China.