DIY Detail has to be the hardest working detailing supply brand out there. I love their rinseless. It's the backbone for what I do. Exterior washes, surprisingly good in door jambs, use as clay lube,. Interior hard surfaces. Pad cleaning. The LVP flooring in my house...I could go on! I haven't tried Gold Standard, but probably should. For now, my go to is TW 1 and Done. Meg's Ultimate Compound doesn't seem to cut as well (at least not with my crappy short throw DA).
I really like gold standard overall. It isn’t a crazy heavy hitter and will readily admit other compounds can do more as a 1 step (megs UC with microfibre pads hits HARD) but it’s just so easy and fast. If you don’t need massive correction the system saves a lot of time. Rinseless paired with a steam cleaner makes interior cleaning a very simple and quick task.
I’ve been polishing 8 years, have a lot of favs, sonax, 3d, nv fineese, etc. Last year I adopted Yvans method, picked up a pad washer and the gold standard. It’s a deminishing polish, pad dependent goes on and on for a long work time. Most of my customers vehicles are pretty soft paint these days with german cars and Cadillacs the exception. I really haven’t run into much the gold standard doesn’t handle. One of the biggest benefits is when using the pad washer system, it’s like using a fresh pad on every working area. That alone brings up the quality of the job. Sure a dedicated compound will cut more but our goal in a correction should be to preserve as much clear coat as possible. I think that is the other main benefit of Yvans method, along with cost and time savings. Modern Oem paint just doesn’t plan on a vehicle being corrected in its lifetime.
It’s good if you have nothing and want a quick, simple polish system. I would have liked to see a bit more correction around the car for the time spent though. Megs on an orange CCS pad would have cut a lot more and still finished well.
Pretty cool review man. I might have to give this DIY polish a try. I've tried a lot of different polishes over the years, but I still tend to go back to my 3D HD Speed. That stuff is just incredible to use, and the results I've gotten on a lot of cars is great with my Flex 3401. Almost no dusting and only takes a couple passes with the Flex to really get some deep correction. But yeah, I love trying new stuff!
Your flex will increase it’s effectiveness compared to my PC used here. At the end of the day it’s still a fairly mild cut, and the pad will greatly influence how much work it can do. Don’t expect any miracles, but it’s a nice system to use for mild corrections.
@@sheepstardetail I used a Porter Cable 7424 for a few years until I upgraded to the Flex. It's like night and day difference in what you can correct time wise. Really helped me doing customer's/friends vehicles. But the PC still has it's place for certain things. It's a really good starter polisher for some people.
Great video! Really enjoy your content. Please stay unbiased! 🙏🏻 I've considered starting my own detailing channel because so many become sponsor-fests, or the channels start selling their own product brand but continue to "review" other products from their competitors (Pan, Jimbo, DPC to name and few). Wishing you many more subscribers.
I can assure you, I will not do that. I have a day job, this is just a hobby that grew into something more. If I EVER go down that path, I'll make it so obvious you'll respect it - and I have no plans to go down that path.
Yes I forgot to mention the consumption per panel vs non-spray polishes. you do need to purchase a couple additional items to get the most out of the system, but they aren't one trick ponies (Rinseless, various pads).
I’ve just done a 2013 Corolla with Pan’s polish and diy gold pad. Results where good but I found it to dry fast on the panel even with 2 squirts. I will give DIY polish a try as it seems to last longer and with just 1 squirt. Thank you for the video!
Interesting results. I recently detailed and ceramic coated a friend's '99 Corvette in exchange for winter car storage, it had the hardest clear coat I have ever encountered. I tried several pad and compound combinations to cut through the 25 years of neglect (it had never been polished), the Meguiar's Compound with a heavy cutting pad worked the best. I'll have to give DIY a try. I have the same Porter Cable polisher as you, I recently replaced it with a gear driven polisher and all I can say is I'm never going back to a normal DA polisher. You get all the safety of a DA in regards to not burning through the paint but it doesn't stall out on corners or curved portions. It cut my polishing time probably in half.
Yeah UC and UP are still very good polishes especially for beginners, but DIY’s system is also very beginner friendly and I believe that process would be easier for a first timer. You can use other polishes with that system (rinseless pad wash between panels) but you’ll still be using 3-4 dots vs 1 spray. I do have a 15mm Rupes as well but I wanted to focus on more beginner hardware.
I really do like 3D One for a one polish fits all. It works really well and is my go to for troublesome sticky paint. The only downside is the wipe off can be a little greasy. The Gold Standard is on my list to try at some point.
Yeah I have been meaning to try that, but it takes a LONG time for me to get through a bottle of Polish. If you have a system that works, don’t fix it (do as I say, not as I do. But, if you fancy a change nothing wrong with experimenting!
Bro awesome comparison video. Hundreds of videos out there and nobody thought of doing something like this. Surprisingly. I was hoping DIY won bc I was about to purchase more polish but I guess DIY is fantastic. Which is great news bc I’m about to polish my Tesla with it this weekend. Can’t wait!!!!
It is a good polis, very flexible and forgiving. It isn’t a crazy cutter like some out there but for a single step you can do a lot worse. I would work it a bit longer than 3 passes if the section has a lot of swirls if you’re using the yellow pad. Otherwise step up to the wool pad and do a 2 step.
Good job. I’ve been using the DIY system for a year in my driveway detailing business. I use the wool pad on a DA, then finish with red jeweling pad on a rotary. My DA is a 15mm. I would definitely get more cutting if I had a 21 or 25 mm machine but I still get amazing before and after results with the DIY system. By the way I use the exact same Tupperware bowl for my pad washing and a 5 gallon bucket to spin it dry too😂. I do plan on investing in a Lake Country pad washer soon though.
Thanks! I have a 15mm Rupes as well, but my comparison was focusing on beginner where a shorter throw would (or at least was) the more common starter polisher. I actually started turning on the polisher when it was in the Tupperware and it actually helped. Pad washer is ideal, but definitely not mandatory.
Thanks. Its good to see these real world comparisons. The question i pose is, for someone who won't polish that often and thus won't want to invest a lot, what machine would best suit the DIY approach? Maybe not specific machine, but type and size? Thanks again
From everything I’ve seen and read, DIY even recommends a palm sander with the pad break removed (so it can rotate). It’s a very small orbit but it’s better than nothing. For the record if I worked the polish in a bit longer it would have done more around the car, I was just trying to stick to a safe beginner set. You’ll get meaningful results out of a short throw DA, and great results out of a long throw.
@@sheepstardetail cheers. Also seen the Pan video where he uses a palm sander. Seems the cheap way to go for a 'once every 5 years at most' option. Thanks again. Nothing beats real world testing where you've bought the stuff yourself. Supercharged llama, who commented on this video, is also a firm favourite in this regard
Love the review! I need some recommendation for new car polish to bring out the shine of the paint. Could you recommend me some DIY friendly products? (I have a GRIOT's G9 and a little bit of polishing/compounding experience)
The products used in this video are all great starter polishes. If you’re new to polishing I wouldn’t use anything heavier than these to start. Note that the DIY polish should be used with their rinseless wash as a pad cleaner (look up DIY Details videos on it to see a full how to). You don’t need to use their pad but it does work well for light corrections.
Im looking for a polish to basically clean up and make my paint look nicer without messing it up. I want as easy and safe as possible and I want to add a ceramic coat. This looks like the way to go. Im a beginner.
@@sheepstardetail I have been happy for what I wanted it to be, I personally liked the non chalking and that if you let it sit on the paint then wipe off it’s a sealer/wax for the paint. Just adds a basic wax like protection when done (or better).
DIY details has their whole polishing system for a reason .if you use the pads polishers and polish they recommend you will get the results you desire.
Agreed, but the wool pad seems like a big step up on cut from the yellow, would like to see a pad in between that offers a bit more cut without having to use a massive 25mm orbit machine.
I wonder if the DIY one is more well suited for a rotary machine? I know Ivan is a big fan of rotary polishers so I wonder for them to get a good balance, they designed it more for the rotary but say it will work on a DA? I'm not sure, I have never personally never used the DIY polish yet. I'm sure there are better options out there probably. Sonax Perfect Finish is always a good one for a good price. I have been using primer polishes more often lately, even if it's just for the last step. I also use a glaze product as the last step, after the primer polish to fill in any minor perfections or hazing that may have been left behind during the polishing step or steps if I do a multi-stage correction. Believe it or not, adding a good glaze (I am using Poorboys World Black Hole at the moment) but any good glaze will work (Xtreme Solutions also have a great one). Anyone who polishes knows that sometimes it's difficult to get a good finish, especially on really soft paint. My paint is so darn soft on my Nissan 370Z that if you look at it wrong, you have scratches. I try my best to not induce micro maring but it's impossible with a 370Z. I did a three stage polish about six months ago and thought I had perfected the paint until I saw it under the garage lighting at a different angle and had very noticeable hazing . I repolished, used different pads, everything I could think of to get the haze out. NOPE. For some reason I just couldn't get it out. Just on one area under the right side outside mirror and passenger door. It was never repainted so I have no idea why it wasn't responding to a myriad of different polishes. Adding a the glaze as the LSP (Last step product) added tremendous gloss and just seemed to finish it out the way it should have looked after 3 stages of polishing! Then I just put two coats of Soft 99 Fusso Coat (waiting 24 hours in between the coats) and then I used two coats of Turtle Wax Graphene Paste Wax. Finally I used NV Lustre as the topper (which has resin in the formula with minor filling capabilities to enhance the gloss even further. That NV Lustre (or Jet also, although I personally love the Lustre better) just adds a beautiful looking finish and it so easy to use. After all those steps and products, the paint looks incredible. A very rich, almost mirror or glass like "Candy Apple" finish that is some of the glossiest paint I have ever had. I get bashed for it being "overkill" and people saying you shouldn't layer the wax, or it won't play well with this, and don't do that. I say "Whatever". I just love playing around with different products and I personally have never had a problem layering many different products from many different brands over the years. True, some don't play well together, however, for the most part, products work fine layering over products from a different brand or type. My only word of advice would be WAIT TWENTY FOUR HOURS BETWEEN COATS OF ANYTHING. That's just a good rule of thumb for allowing whatever is in the product you are using (Wax, Sealant, Coating) to fully cure on both the surface it's adhering to and also gives the ingredients of the product to fully form and harden or flash off whatever carrier agent is in them if they have one. It does seem to help as you are not simply wiping away or breaking down whatever you just put on the paint prior whether it's a wax, sealant, or coating. Some products (mostly coatings) don't want you to top it for up to a full seven to fourteen days. Just follow the manufacturer instructions. I personally never used a full blown ceramic coating but I have used many different ceramic products such as waxes and sealants. There is always an argument about layering or stacking products. On one hand, some detailers swear by doing it, and then on the other hand, some say it's a complete waste of time and you should only do one coat only and anything else on top will strip whatever is underneath first. I don't subscribe to that thinking based on my own experience. I have been successfully topping, layering, and stacking products for upwards of 45+ years. I like playing around with different products to see what combo gives the best gloss. I want the strongest hydrophobics when I top or layer something. That's key for me. GLOSS. And lot's of it. Then I just keep it all maintained usually with whatever spray product I have on hand at the moment, but it's generally the yellow Technicians Choice Original Ceramic Detail Spray, Griot's Garage Ceramic Speed Shine, and Tac Systems Shinee Wax. I always crack up when people say you can't top or stack products. The only time you really can't top or stack a wax I have found is when you have a high petroleum solvent or carrier agent in the wax which may emulsify the layer previously applied. This is mainly with any CLEANER WAX as they either contain either chemicals to clean the paint or mild abrasives and they are designed to remove any traces of previous wax or sealants so it only makes sense that those products should not be used to layer or stack unless it's the base layer.
100%. You have the ability to work it longer as well if you have a short stroke machine, but I would recommend at least 15mm stroke to see meaningful correction under normal circumstances.
Yep, used the pads that would be most likely combo with each polish, all of which are in the light polish range. I only have 2 DIY yellow waffle pads so I couldn’t use it for all 3.
Yeah I’ve been watching others, seems good, but it’s a shampoo - lots of good ones before it, lots of good ones will come after. Comparing pan, detail co, and DIY will be the real comparison for the people.
@@sheepstardetail yeah I just ordered the detail co neutral shampoo and then I ordered their ceramic sealant and pans ceramic sealant. It's gonna be a lot of testing going on tbh
@@sheepstardetail that’s where your confusion is. All in ones are one pad cut and finish. Put Sonax Cut & Finish on the yellow pad, compare it to DIY, the say, “I see this mofos point”.
I asked what product you’re referring to, not method. Also how much is that product and how much are you using? I used 3 dots for the meguiars polishes in this video, and one spray for DIY.
DIY Detail has to be the hardest working detailing supply brand out there. I love their rinseless. It's the backbone for what I do. Exterior washes, surprisingly good in door jambs, use as clay lube,. Interior hard surfaces. Pad cleaning. The LVP flooring in my house...I could go on! I haven't tried Gold Standard, but probably should. For now, my go to is TW 1 and Done. Meg's Ultimate Compound doesn't seem to cut as well (at least not with my crappy short throw DA).
I really like gold standard overall. It isn’t a crazy heavy hitter and will readily admit other compounds can do more as a 1 step (megs UC with microfibre pads hits HARD) but it’s just so easy and fast. If you don’t need massive correction the system saves a lot of time.
Rinseless paired with a steam cleaner makes interior cleaning a very simple and quick task.
Thanks for the review.
I’ll keep ya honest!
@@sheepstardetailwe appreciate it.
I’ve been polishing 8 years, have a lot of favs, sonax, 3d, nv fineese, etc. Last year I adopted Yvans method, picked up a pad washer and the gold standard. It’s a deminishing polish, pad dependent goes on and on for a long work time. Most of my customers vehicles are pretty soft paint these days with german cars and Cadillacs the exception. I really haven’t run into much the gold standard doesn’t handle. One of the biggest benefits is when using the pad washer system, it’s like using a fresh pad on every working area. That alone brings up the quality of the job. Sure a dedicated compound will cut more but our goal in a correction should be to preserve as much clear coat as possible. I think that is the other main benefit of Yvans method, along with cost and time savings. Modern Oem paint just doesn’t plan on a vehicle being corrected in its lifetime.
Only 30 seconds in, and I am glad you did this review I am interested in this stuff, but really not interested enough to buy it.
It’s good if you have nothing and want a quick, simple polish system. I would have liked to see a bit more correction around the car for the time spent though. Megs on an orange CCS pad would have cut a lot more and still finished well.
Pretty cool review man. I might have to give this DIY polish a try. I've tried a lot of different polishes over the years, but I still tend to go back to my 3D HD Speed. That stuff is just incredible to use, and the results I've gotten on a lot of cars is great with my Flex 3401. Almost no dusting and only takes a couple passes with the Flex to really get some deep correction. But yeah, I love trying new stuff!
Your flex will increase it’s effectiveness compared to my PC used here. At the end of the day it’s still a fairly mild cut, and the pad will greatly influence how much work it can do. Don’t expect any miracles, but it’s a nice system to use for mild corrections.
@@sheepstardetail I used a Porter Cable 7424 for a few years until I upgraded to the Flex. It's like night and day difference in what you can correct time wise. Really helped me doing customer's/friends vehicles. But the PC still has it's place for certain things. It's a really good starter polisher for some people.
@@Ryan-ds2wx agreed. I use my rupes now when I detail, and put a 3 inch pad on the PC for the small stuff.
Great video! Really enjoy your content. Please stay unbiased! 🙏🏻 I've considered starting my own detailing channel because so many become sponsor-fests, or the channels start selling their own product brand but continue to "review" other products from their competitors (Pan, Jimbo, DPC to name and few). Wishing you many more subscribers.
I can assure you, I will not do that. I have a day job, this is just a hobby that grew into something more.
If I EVER go down that path, I'll make it so obvious you'll respect it - and I have no plans to go down that path.
Really good comparison dude, enjoyed watching that a lot!
Thanks darling! I can say that right? No? Oh, okay.
@@sheepstardetail of course you can darling!
The DIY DETAIL polish is great for enhancements and the tiny amount you use makes the bottle last a long time
Yes I forgot to mention the consumption per panel vs non-spray polishes. you do need to purchase a couple additional items to get the most out of the system, but they aren't one trick ponies (Rinseless, various pads).
I’ve just done a 2013 Corolla with Pan’s polish and diy gold pad. Results where good but I found it to dry fast on the panel even with 2 squirts. I will give DIY polish a try as it seems to last longer and with just 1 squirt. Thank you for the video!
I’m about to do the same. Already purchased the products. Curious to know if you used a rinseless dampened pad?
@ no, I just used a dry fluffy mf(popo brand) to wipe off
Interesting results. I recently detailed and ceramic coated a friend's '99 Corvette in exchange for winter car storage, it had the hardest clear coat I have ever encountered. I tried several pad and compound combinations to cut through the 25 years of neglect (it had never been polished), the Meguiar's Compound with a heavy cutting pad worked the best. I'll have to give DIY a try.
I have the same Porter Cable polisher as you, I recently replaced it with a gear driven polisher and all I can say is I'm never going back to a normal DA polisher. You get all the safety of a DA in regards to not burning through the paint but it doesn't stall out on corners or curved portions. It cut my polishing time probably in half.
Yeah UC and UP are still very good polishes especially for beginners, but DIY’s system is also very beginner friendly and I believe that process would be easier for a first timer. You can use other polishes with that system (rinseless pad wash between panels) but you’ll still be using 3-4 dots vs 1 spray.
I do have a 15mm Rupes as well but I wanted to focus on more beginner hardware.
I really do like 3D One for a one polish fits all. It works really well and is my go to for troublesome sticky paint. The only downside is the wipe off can be a little greasy. The Gold Standard is on my list to try at some point.
Yeah I have been meaning to try that, but it takes a LONG time for me to get through a bottle of Polish. If you have a system that works, don’t fix it (do as I say, not as I do. But, if you fancy a change nothing wrong with experimenting!
Bro awesome comparison video. Hundreds of videos out there and nobody thought of doing something like this. Surprisingly. I was hoping DIY won bc I was about to purchase more polish but I guess DIY is fantastic. Which is great news bc I’m about to polish my Tesla with it this weekend. Can’t wait!!!!
It is a good polis, very flexible and forgiving. It isn’t a crazy cutter like some out there but for a single step you can do a lot worse. I would work it a bit longer than 3 passes if the section has a lot of swirls if you’re using the yellow pad. Otherwise step up to the wool pad and do a 2 step.
Good job. I’ve been using the DIY system for a year in my driveway detailing business. I use the wool pad on a DA, then finish with red jeweling pad on a rotary. My DA is a 15mm. I would definitely get more cutting if I had a 21 or 25 mm machine but I still get amazing before and after results with the DIY system.
By the way I use the exact same Tupperware bowl for my pad washing and a 5 gallon bucket to spin it dry too😂. I do plan on investing in a Lake Country pad washer soon though.
Thanks! I have a 15mm Rupes as well, but my comparison was focusing on beginner where a shorter throw would (or at least was) the more common starter polisher.
I actually started turning on the polisher when it was in the Tupperware and it actually helped. Pad washer is ideal, but definitely not mandatory.
Great polish and system
Informative video! Thanks for creating and sharing this!
Thanks. Its good to see these real world comparisons. The question i pose is, for someone who won't polish that often and thus won't want to invest a lot, what machine would best suit the DIY approach? Maybe not specific machine, but type and size?
Thanks again
From everything I’ve seen and read, DIY even recommends a palm sander with the pad break removed (so it can rotate). It’s a very small orbit but it’s better than nothing. For the record if I worked the polish in a bit longer it would have done more around the car, I was just trying to stick to a safe beginner set.
You’ll get meaningful results out of a short throw DA, and great results out of a long throw.
@@sheepstardetail cheers. Also seen the Pan video where he uses a palm sander. Seems the cheap way to go for a 'once every 5 years at most' option.
Thanks again. Nothing beats real world testing where you've bought the stuff yourself. Supercharged llama, who commented on this video, is also a firm favourite in this regard
Love the review! I need some recommendation for new car polish to bring out the shine of the paint. Could you recommend me some DIY friendly products? (I have a GRIOT's G9 and a little bit of polishing/compounding experience)
The products used in this video are all great starter polishes. If you’re new to polishing I wouldn’t use anything heavier than these to start. Note that the DIY polish should be used with their rinseless wash as a pad cleaner (look up DIY Details videos on it to see a full how to). You don’t need to use their pad but it does work well for light corrections.
@@sheepstardetail Thank you so much!!
Gold Standard is supposed to compete head to head with Ultimate Compound, except it's trim safe and doesn't dry and clump up as fast
Yeah, but I think megs on an orange CCS pad would out cut it on the yellow, and still finish well.
great job mate i agree it’s a good alround polish but i do like using other pads with it
Down the road I’ll experiment with other pads and see what results I get.
Im looking for a polish to basically clean up and make my paint look nicer without messing it up. I want as easy and safe as possible and I want to add a ceramic coat. This looks like the way to go. Im a beginner.
Yeah it’s a good entry level system with some room to grow. Highly recommend getting the rinseless to clean the pad in between sets!
Have you tried Rupes uno protect? I have not tried diys but will once I’m done with this.
I have not. I still have quite a few AIO’s to get through before I buy another.
@@sheepstardetail
I have been happy for what I wanted it to be, I personally liked the non chalking and that if you let it sit on the paint then wipe off it’s a sealer/wax for the paint. Just adds a basic wax like protection when done (or better).
@@gtpwhite they also have the advanced version which is supposed to be quite stout.
Nice video. Have you considered comparing DIY to 3D ONE?
Not yet, but it sounds like a comparison a lot of people want to see. I need a swirly hood!
DIY details has their whole polishing system for a reason .if you use the pads polishers and polish they recommend you will get the results you desire.
Agreed, but the wool pad seems like a big step up on cut from the yellow, would like to see a pad in between that offers a bit more cut without having to use a massive 25mm orbit machine.
I wonder if the DIY one is more well suited for a rotary machine? I know Ivan is a big fan of rotary polishers so I wonder for them to get a good balance, they designed it more for the rotary but say it will work on a DA? I'm not sure, I have never personally never used the DIY polish yet. I'm sure there are better options out there probably. Sonax Perfect Finish is always a good one for a good price. I have been using primer polishes more often lately, even if it's just for the last step. I also use a glaze product as the last step, after the primer polish to fill in any minor perfections or hazing that may have been left behind during the polishing step or steps if I do a multi-stage correction. Believe it or not, adding a good glaze (I am using Poorboys World Black Hole at the moment) but any good glaze will work (Xtreme Solutions also have a great one). Anyone who polishes knows that sometimes it's difficult to get a good finish, especially on really soft paint. My paint is so darn soft on my Nissan 370Z that if you look at it wrong, you have scratches. I try my best to not induce micro maring but it's impossible with a 370Z. I did a three stage polish about six months ago and thought I had perfected the paint until I saw it under the garage lighting at a different angle and had very noticeable hazing . I repolished, used different pads, everything I could think of to get the haze out. NOPE. For some reason I just couldn't get it out. Just on one area under the right side outside mirror and passenger door. It was never repainted so I have no idea why it wasn't responding to a myriad of different polishes. Adding a the glaze as the LSP (Last step product) added tremendous gloss and just seemed to finish it out the way it should have looked after 3 stages of polishing! Then I just put two coats of Soft 99 Fusso Coat (waiting 24 hours in between the coats) and then I used two coats of Turtle Wax Graphene Paste Wax. Finally I used NV Lustre as the topper (which has resin in the formula with minor filling capabilities to enhance the gloss even further. That NV Lustre (or Jet also, although I personally love the Lustre better) just adds a beautiful looking finish and it so easy to use. After all those steps and products, the paint looks incredible. A very rich, almost mirror or glass like "Candy Apple" finish that is some of the glossiest paint I have ever had. I get bashed for it being "overkill" and people saying you shouldn't layer the wax, or it won't play well with this, and don't do that. I say "Whatever". I just love playing around with different products and I personally have never had a problem layering many different products from many different brands over the years. True, some don't play well together, however, for the most part, products work fine layering over products from a different brand or type. My only word of advice would be WAIT TWENTY FOUR HOURS BETWEEN COATS OF ANYTHING. That's just a good rule of thumb for allowing whatever is in the product you are using (Wax, Sealant, Coating) to fully cure on both the surface it's adhering to and also gives the ingredients of the product to fully form and harden or flash off whatever carrier agent is in them if they have one. It does seem to help as you are not simply wiping away or breaking down whatever you just put on the paint prior whether it's a wax, sealant, or coating. Some products (mostly coatings) don't want you to top it for up to a full seven to fourteen days. Just follow the manufacturer instructions. I personally never used a full blown ceramic coating but I have used many different ceramic products such as waxes and sealants. There is always an argument about layering or stacking products. On one hand, some detailers swear by doing it, and then on the other hand, some say it's a complete waste of time and you should only do one coat only and anything else on top will strip whatever is underneath first. I don't subscribe to that thinking based on my own experience. I have been successfully topping, layering, and stacking products for upwards of 45+ years. I like playing around with different products to see what combo gives the best gloss. I want the strongest hydrophobics when I top or layer something. That's key for me. GLOSS. And lot's of it. Then I just keep it all maintained usually with whatever spray product I have on hand at the moment, but it's generally the yellow Technicians Choice Original Ceramic Detail Spray, Griot's Garage Ceramic Speed Shine, and Tac Systems Shinee Wax. I always crack up when people say you can't top or stack products. The only time you really can't top or stack a wax I have found is when you have a high petroleum solvent or carrier agent in the wax which may emulsify the layer previously applied. This is mainly with any CLEANER WAX as they either contain either chemicals to clean the paint or mild abrasives and they are designed to remove any traces of previous wax or sealants so it only makes sense that those products should not be used to layer or stack unless it's the base layer.
do you think with the DIY Detail you need the 25mm Stroke machine to get the best results
100%. You have the ability to work it longer as well if you have a short stroke machine, but I would recommend at least 15mm stroke to see meaningful correction under normal circumstances.
It appears you have a different pad on the middle example. 😊
Yep, used the pads that would be most likely combo with each polish, all of which are in the light polish range. I only have 2 DIY yellow waffle pads so I couldn’t use it for all 3.
Gotta see this diy vs pans polish.
Haven’t ordered anything else from Clean yet, but it’s a pretty logical next step.
@@sheepstardetail yeah I ordered his polish and shampoo. I gotta say his shampoo is nice stuff fr. Probably top 5 imo
Yeah I’ve been watching others, seems good, but it’s a shampoo - lots of good ones before it, lots of good ones will come after.
Comparing pan, detail co, and DIY will be the real comparison for the people.
@@sheepstardetail yeah I just ordered the detail co neutral shampoo and then I ordered their ceramic sealant and pans ceramic sealant. It's gonna be a lot of testing going on tbh
@@sheepstardetail I don't think diy pans or detail co will be that different from each other but they just speculation
Im here
Way too much dialogue...get to the point
Thanks for watching!
Cuts like a spatula, lol
Cut better than ultimate compound under the same conditions. Not by much, but better. Pair it with a more aggressive pad and it’ll be a good one step.
@@sheepstardetail lol, nope, KCX @ Ultimate on dark paint & hard clear, wasn’t even close. The lost art of correction vs. the quick buck enhancement.
Sorry, what product is that? Did you compare the DIY to that?
@@sheepstardetail that’s where your confusion is. All in ones are one pad cut and finish. Put Sonax Cut & Finish on the yellow pad, compare it to DIY, the say, “I see this mofos point”.
I asked what product you’re referring to, not method. Also how much is that product and how much are you using? I used 3 dots for the meguiars polishes in this video, and one spray for DIY.