Nice video. I decided to use this 12V source in my 2020 Model 3 Performance for a radar detector. Constant 12V (vs switched) is not ideal, but i had several work around ideas that would be easier than tearing half of the interior apart to get switched 12V. I measured a solid 13.7V with a Fluke DVM. I have seen other videos or postings that say it shuts off after the car goes to sleep..one even says it drops from 12V to 9V. To investigate, i hooked up an LED+resistor to the yellow and black wires. The power did stay on for at least 24 hours, even with the car not connected to its charger. So I built a mount to hang my new V1gen2 under the mirror. It worked great, BUT the microphone, also in that panel with the dome lights, did not work so she quit responding to voice commands! But if I switch off the V1, the mike works again. I think the V1gen2 draws about 450mA. ANY inputs will be appreciated before I go find a better 12V source, like the one under the left edge of the dash that many recommend.
@@MrSpeigels This spot is still the best (least disruptive) for powering upper-windshield devices like radar detectors. I wrote a paper about the Quick Mount and am about to publish a revision that shows how to live with a constant 12V source. See: www.rdforum.org/threads/109329/page-2 I am testing the new hardware and will publish soon, but income tax comes first. :-)
I'm getting my head around the idea of getting two red or RGB projectors to kind of create an ambient light. Just so you can see you hand in the dark when you have to type something
Love it. This should work well with a dashcam. I will do that and post a video about it on the Model 3. Thank you again and I will mention your video if that's ok.
The grey clips hold the grey plastic cover to the black plastic box underneath. This thing is hard to get off. To tap the wires, I used the red positaps on the yellow/black wire. Found this post: imgur.com/gallery/cOIpEsF
Just ran across the channel and saw the old CJHS videos. Assuming you are the blue Model 3 I have seen around EP? Still waiting on mine. Appreciate all the how to videos.
Could be...I know there is at least one other (also blue) in my neighborhood. Send me an email if you want to meet up and see mine. jonco223 it's a gmail account
I'm not sure if there's enough room to use an IDC tap - there isn't much slack in the wiring harness or room for much extra in that space. Would probably have to solder a wire to connect.
@@rdtc2854 I cut and soldered a JST connector into those, and ran the cord out the front, works fine. the tunnel the wires come out of goes all the way through.
Watch out for those broken gray clips on the front corners. Those were clipped into something and now they're broken. That's why it took a lot of force. :/
True, the gray clips did break pretty easily - although they don't really seem to hold anything in place. Even without those clips, the gray trim doesn't release from the black housing. The force required is to release the upper clips on the top of the black housing.
Seems like you should be able to push those grey clips in from the sides first to avoid snapping them. Would like to see how flush this piece snaps back in now that they are broken.
Yes, I think you're right - should be able to disengage them first. That was my first time removing it, so I didn't know how it was configured. It snaps back in fully - can't tell it was ever removed.
The recommendation I've seen is 1 amp max for the yellow wire. Fuses are not necessary as long as the wire you connect is the same size or larger. For a radar detector, it probably makes more sense to use a switched source like this ua-cam.com/video/bXNjgyrcGno/v-deo.html
Thank you Jon, I ended up using the blue wire source under the dash. Thanks to your video tutorials it made the installation of my radar detector & dash cam so much easy. I tapped both on the blue wire, I used the ground bolt on the floor board driver side near the foot rest, it was nerve racking though, it sparks when I was loosening the bolt, not sure why because I power off to de-energize the system. Is that normal, I want to go back in there because the eyelet wire connector that I cut into a U-shape is only half-way in, because of the sparks I was in a hurry to just to get it in & get it over with when I loosened the bolt. Do you know if the spark is a sign that I will do any damage or short circuit a system in the car?
@@jaimeb.1639 You may want to use a power distribution block in the area you went for 12v, but use VC-Left and allow for easy future device installs with up to 12-13A of usable power (~144W). See my writeup here: teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/electra-interior-exterior-power-lighting-upgrades-accessory-mods.163084/
I would guess that a small load there won't affect the battery management system, but I'm just guessing. I haven't seen any definitive info on how sensitive the car's monitoring system can be. I don't plan on using this source myself, I'm fine with a switched source for my dashcam.
To anybody that will be using this source, just make sure that it still shows the same voltage when the car goes to sleep. Because it might not actually be constant once that happens.
Months ago, I had my BlackVue DR750S-2CH professionally wired directly to my 12V battery through a Power Magic Pro on my Tesla Model 3. That was recommended at the time. Everything has been working fine, including in parking mode for days at a time. This morning, I got a "replace my 12V battery message". My Tesla service center is proactively replacing my 12V battery today, which is frustrating. I hear that a firmware change in recent months made the 12V battery getting constant draw more sensitive, which is why I'm getting this message now. I've talked to The Dashcam Store today, where I bought my BlackVue, and they're recommending using the B-124 external battery method from BlackVue, but it's expensive ($300) and will only power parking mode for about 15 hours. This yellow wire method could work. I'm hearing it's a 12V constant power source that drops to 9V when the car goes to sleep. The Dashcam Store tested my BlackVue today and says it works down to 7V, so it sounds like this might work without the B-124 battery. Can anyone validate this?
Keep up the good work videos like these are an amazing resource for which you cannot be thanked enough
it's like the Primitive Technology of Tesla - just minimal information - no guff !!
Thanks again, Jon!
The dome lights don’t seem very bright. I wish that Abstract Ocean had a fix, just for me!
Nice video. I decided to use this 12V source in my 2020 Model 3 Performance for a radar detector. Constant 12V (vs switched) is not ideal, but i had several work around ideas that would be easier than tearing half of the interior apart to get switched 12V.
I measured a solid 13.7V with a Fluke DVM. I have seen other videos or postings that say it shuts off after the car goes to sleep..one even says it drops from 12V to 9V. To investigate, i hooked up an LED+resistor to the yellow and black wires. The power did stay on for at least 24 hours, even with the car not connected to its charger.
So I built a mount to hang my new V1gen2 under the mirror. It worked great, BUT the microphone, also in that panel with the dome lights, did not work so she quit responding to voice commands! But if I switch off the V1, the mike works again. I think the V1gen2 draws about 450mA. ANY inputs will be appreciated before I go find a better 12V source, like the one under the left edge of the dash that many recommend.
Did you find a solution/ or a better spot?
@@MrSpeigels This spot is still the best (least disruptive) for powering upper-windshield devices like radar detectors. I wrote a paper about the Quick Mount and am about to publish a revision that shows how to live with a constant 12V source. See:
www.rdforum.org/threads/109329/page-2
I am testing the new hardware and will publish soon, but income tax comes first. :-)
hello, could you tell me if there is a way to change the interior bulbs with some led bulbs? Thanks in advance
Aren't they already LED bulbs?
@@VideoViewer33512 no... :(
I love how you respond to all the comments. I'm looking for good people to follow, I have a Model S with 150K miles. Thank you.
Can the map lights be replaced they are very dim to me
It’s great to see you again with more great tips!
I'm getting my head around the idea of getting two red or RGB projectors to kind of create an ambient light. Just so you can see you hand in the dark when you have to type something
So you wouldn’t happen to know what a good brighter LED replacement light would be for those would you?
Love it. This should work well with a dashcam. I will do that and post a video about it on the Model 3. Thank you again and I will mention your video if that's ok.
Sure, no problem.
The grey clips hold the grey plastic cover to the black plastic box underneath. This thing is hard to get off. To tap the wires, I used the red positaps on the yellow/black wire. Found this post: imgur.com/gallery/cOIpEsF
Just ran across the channel and saw the old CJHS videos. Assuming you are the blue Model 3 I have seen around EP? Still waiting on mine. Appreciate all the how to videos.
Could be...I know there is at least one other (also blue) in my neighborhood. Send me an email if you want to meet up and see mine. jonco223 it's a gmail account
Thanks for the video. Since I don’t have a manual for the car I have to rely on UA-cam
I NEED A TUTORIAL ON THE BACK PASSENGER DOME LIGHTS
When used with posi-tap, can it be used as a constant power supply of dashcam?
Hey John, can you show us how to tap into that 12 volt source?
If you don't know how to splice wires, you're not qualified to even be doing this kind of work. At all.
I'm not sure if there's enough room to use an IDC tap - there isn't much slack in the wiring harness or room for much extra in that space. Would probably have to solder a wire to connect.
Jon, Did you explore the possibility to replace the light bulb to a brighter one?
No, I didn't look at taking apart the light assembly.
thanks for the reply.
so now how is the best way to run wires out?, can you go under the headliner forwards?
Yes, that should work
@@rdtc2854 I cut and soldered a JST connector into those, and ran the cord out the front, works fine. the tunnel the wires come out of goes all the way through.
Watch out for those broken gray clips on the front corners. Those were clipped into something and now they're broken. That's why it took a lot of force. :/
True, the gray clips did break pretty easily - although they don't really seem to hold anything in place. Even without those clips, the gray trim doesn't release from the black housing. The force required is to release the upper clips on the top of the black housing.
Seems like you should be able to push those grey clips in from the sides first to avoid snapping them. Would like to see how flush this piece snaps back in now that they are broken.
Yes, I think you're right - should be able to disengage them first. That was my first time removing it, so I didn't know how it was configured. It snaps back in fully - can't tell it was ever removed.
Does this method still work for a 2020 model 3?
Is there a switched 12v source in that harness as well?
Did you find a 12v switchable source to use for a radar?
Can I wire both my blackvue & V1 radar detector to this yellow wire, can it handle the load & do I have to have separate fuse for each?
The recommendation I've seen is 1 amp max for the yellow wire. Fuses are not necessary as long as the wire you connect is the same size or larger. For a radar detector, it probably makes more sense to use a switched source like this ua-cam.com/video/bXNjgyrcGno/v-deo.html
Thank you Jon, I ended up using the blue wire source under the dash. Thanks to your video tutorials it made the installation of my radar detector & dash cam so much easy. I tapped both on the blue wire, I used the ground bolt on the floor board driver side near the foot rest, it was nerve racking though, it sparks when I was loosening the bolt, not sure why because I power off to de-energize the system. Is that normal, I want to go back in there because the eyelet wire connector that I cut into a U-shape is only half-way in, because of the sparks I was in a hurry to just to get it in & get it over with when I loosened the bolt. Do you know if the spark is a sign that I will do any damage or short circuit a system in the car?
@@jaimeb.1639 You may want to use a power distribution block in the area you went for 12v, but use VC-Left and allow for easy future device installs with up to 12-13A of usable power (~144W). See my writeup here: teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/electra-interior-exterior-power-lighting-upgrades-accessory-mods.163084/
Do you think plugging in a camera there will affect the battery management system? Did you try it?
I would guess that a small load there won't affect the battery management system, but I'm just guessing. I haven't seen any definitive info on how sensitive the car's monitoring system can be. I don't plan on using this source myself, I'm fine with a switched source for my dashcam.
Hi Jon, is there a 5V on the same connector, constant or switched?
To anybody that will be using this source, just make sure that it still shows the same voltage when the car goes to sleep. Because it might not actually be constant once that happens.
Months ago, I had my BlackVue DR750S-2CH professionally wired directly to my 12V battery through a Power Magic Pro on my Tesla Model 3. That was recommended at the time. Everything has been working fine, including in parking mode for days at a time. This morning, I got a "replace my 12V battery message". My Tesla service center is proactively replacing my 12V battery today, which is frustrating. I hear that a firmware change in recent months made the 12V battery getting constant draw more sensitive, which is why I'm getting this message now.
I've talked to The Dashcam Store today, where I bought my BlackVue, and they're recommending using the B-124 external battery method from BlackVue, but it's expensive ($300) and will only power parking mode for about 15 hours. This yellow wire method could work. I'm hearing it's a 12V constant power source that drops to 9V when the car goes to sleep. The Dashcam Store tested my BlackVue today and says it works down to 7V, so it sounds like this might work without the B-124 battery. Can anyone validate this?
Uh.... I'm sure you know now, that you've broken the 2 plastic clips. I want to change my dome lights badly but.....I'm "gonna" have to wait.
clearly not a tesla